WATCH YOUR TIME EUROPE UK 2020 : simplebooklet.com

Marcel van Luit was born and raised in Groningen, in the Netherlands. After studying to be a teacher, he instead became a social worker before embarking on a new career in art. His journey to who he is today began in 2013 when Marcel, who had just become a father to his ﬁrst son, Otis, was diagnosed with Guillain-Barré Syndrome, a rare condition that affects the nerves and which left him completely paralyzed. After months in hospital, he was transferred to a rehabilitation centre. Still in a wheelchair and eager to ﬁnd something to get him through the long days ahead, he picked up a camera and started taking photos. Whenever Otis came to visit, Marcel would shoot dozens of pictures which he then edited into dream worlds, creating the adventures he and his baby son couldn’t yet enjoy. A whole new passion opened up to Marcel, who developed what would become his signature style of con-trasting tonalities, darkness and light. He posted some of his work on Instagram where he quickly gained an online fan base. He also came to the attention of the European art scene, from where his ofﬂine career took off. A solo show at Corrado Bortone Gallery in Paris, in May 2018, would be the ﬁrst of numerous exhibitions across the globe, including in Antwerp, Miami, Sao Paulo, Amsterdam, Los Angeles, Zurich and Santiago de Chile. Marcel van Luit is represented by ADB Agency in New York, Paris and London, and creates custom artwork for international clients. In 2020 he published his ﬁrst limited-edition book: Where the Dreamers Go. ILLUSTRATOR MARCEL VAN LUIT @ADB AGENCY Marcel Van Luit PUBLISHER-FOUNDER CHRISTIAN LLAVALL-UBACH MANAGING DIRECTOR ISABELLE BOUDRINGHIN — EDITIONS@TEMPS-INTERNATIONAL.COM WATCH CONSULTANT ERIC DUMATIN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR CHRISTOPHE ROULET CONTRIBUTORS PETER BRAUN (GERMANY), VINCENT DAVEAU (FRANCE), PAOLO DE VECCHI (ITALY), FABRICE ESCHMANN (SWITZERLAND), PALOMA RECIO (SPAIN), CHRISTOPHE ROULET (SWITZERLAND) TRANSLATORS SANDRA PETCH, PALOMA RECIO, PAOLO DE VECCHI, AMAÏA TRADUCTIONS PHOTOGRAPHER MARCEL VAN LUITARTISTIC DIRECTOR VINCENT FESSELET, GENEVA PHOTOENGRAVERS BOMBIE, GENEVA, PRINTED IN THE U.E. REPRODUCTION, EVEN PARTIAL, OF MATERIAL PUBLISHED IN WATCH YOUR TIME IS STRICTLY PROHIBITED. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED IN THE U.K. AND OTHER COUNTRIES.JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER CONTROL GEOGRAPHIC.JAEGER-LECOULTRE’S UNIQUE INTERPRETATION OF THE TRAVEL WATCH HAS BEEN A FEATURE OF THE MASTER CONTROL COLLECTION SINCE 1990, MUCH APPRECIATED BY CONNOISSEURS. RATHER THAN INDICATING ONLY THE HOUR OF A SECOND TIME ZONE, THE GEOGRAPHIC ALSO HAS A 24-HOUR NIGHT/DAY INDICATOR AND, IN AN APERTURE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE DIAL, DISPLAYS THE CITY NAME RELATING TO THE ZONE. THIS GIVES TRAVELLERS THE OPTION OF SETTING THE SECOND TIME BY LOCATION, RATHER THAN NEEDING TO CALCULATE THE TIME DIFFERENCE. THE NEW-GENERATION CALIBRE 939 INCREASES THE POWER RESERVE OF THE MASTER CONTROL GEOGRAPHIC TO 70 HOURS, WHILE THE CASE IS AVAILABLE IN A CHOICE OF STEEL OR LE GRAND ROSE GOLD®. 11 focus audemars piguet Innovative Spirit 12 editorial Three views of time 13 focus cartier Eternal icons 15 focus tag heuer 360° expertise 17 focus print a live Opens a new window on information 20 focus chanel Pioneer of time 22 focus bvlgari Dolce vita 24 EXPLORATION A matter of survival — PETER BRAUN 29 focus panerai Stupendous 70 32 focus baume & mercier Heritage and innovation 34 focus rolex Perpetual Planet 38 JEWELLERY Jewelled delights — MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON 41 focus hermès Eternal vision 42 ENVIRONMENT Mother Nature — CHRISTOPHE ROULET 45 focus van cleef & arpels All you need is love 47 focus seiko 60 years of perfection 48 OCEANS The call of the deep — PALOMA RECIO 51 focus ulysse nardin A taste for adventure 53 focus louis vuitton Good times 54 POLES Fatal attraction — VINCENT DAVEAU WATCH YOUR TIMESPECIAL WATCH MAGAZINEPRODUCED FOR THE DAILY TELEGRAPH ON THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 24, 2020 BY EDITIONS TEMPS INTERNATIONAL WHO TAKE SOLE RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE CONTENTS.EDITIONS TEMPS INTERNATIONAL LTD2503 BANK OF AMERICA TOWER, 12 HARCOURT ROAD, CENTRAL, HONG KONGEDITIONS@TEMPS-INTERNATIONAL.COMEUROPEAN EDITION 2020, PUBLISHED SIMULTANEOUSLY WITH LE MONDE (FRANCE), FRANKFURTER ALLGEMEINE (GERMANY), IL SOLE 24 ORE (ITALY), EL MUNDO (SPAIN).

Page 8

Page 9

Page 10

Page 11

At ﬁrst sight, the new Audemars Piguet museum in Vallée de Joux, the ancestral heart of the Swiss watch industry and home to the venerable Manufacture since it was founded in 1875, can come as a surprise. Not because the building is out of place in this peaceful valley. On the contrary. A glass swirl under a planted roof, it was designed to blend with the landscape — another way to assert the individuality of a ﬁrm which, having mastered the rules, chooses to break them. The work of Danish architect Bjarke Ingels and his BIG architectural ﬁrm, whose other projects include the Google Campus and the Two World Trade Center tower in New York, the structure is entirely sympathetic with its surroundings.For Audemars Piguet, this presence in Vallée de Joux is essential as it anchors the brand in the terroir of Swiss watchmaking. Legacy and authenticity are prized attrib-utes in the profession, something the brand acknowledged early on with the creation of its ﬁrst museum in 1992, inside the original Audemars family home. The museum was extended in 2004. Today, more than 3,000 people visit each year to admire the technical tours de force of the several hundred timepieces on display, certain of which go back to the company’s foundation, and soak up the atmosphere of the mountains and valley. The new building is a reﬂection of this success while conveying the values of tradition and innovative thinking that are characteristic of the Manufacture.Looking out onto the worldThis is, in fact, two ventures in one, to be known as the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet. The “Musée” or museum part houses the collection of historic timepieces in a visual narrative by Atelier Brückner, a German company and specialist in the design of museum space. Visitors make their way along the double spiral towards the centre of the building where grande complication watches are displayed. The showstopper is L’Universelle, an extraor-dinary pocket watch produced in 1899 with 1,168 com-ponents driving more than twenty functions. Audemars Piguet has also chosen to bring its watchmakers inside these glass walls — hence the “Atelier” or workshop in the name. All highly skilled and experienced in assem-bling the grandes complications that continue to forge the brand’s renown, they are joined by the Manufacture’s other craftsmen and women, including stone-setters and engravers. “We wanted visitors to experience our heritage, our savoir-faire, our cultural origins and our outward-looking attitude in a building that would reﬂect both our roots and our avant-garde spirit,” says Jasmine Audemars, Chairwoman of the Board of Directors. “Most of all though, we wanted this to be a tribute to the watch-makers and ar tisans who, through generations, have made Audemars Piguet what it is today.”The original building, which dates from 1868, hasn’t been forgotten. Fully and sympathetically restored, it provides space for the restoration workshop, the archives and the Heritage division. It is also the headquarters of the Audemars Piguet Foundation, which contributes to the global conservation of trees and forests. The brand is a patron of the arts, and so the new Musée Atelier presents works by the contemporary artists who beneﬁt from its support. These many elements are indicative of the vast passion that drives the brand and which, coincid-ing with the museum’s ofﬁcial opening, takes the shape of the [Re]Master01. Directly inspired by a 1943 limited edition, it tells its part of a story spanning hundreds of years. Christophe RouletAUDEMARS PIGUET [RE]MASTER01. IN THE SAME WAY OLD RECORDINGS CAN BE REMAST ERED, AU DEM ARS PIG UET HAS TR ANS POS ED A 194 3 CH RON OGR A PH TO A WATCH FOR THE 2020S. MANY OF THE ORIGINAL’S DISTINCTIVE FEATURES RE MAIN , IN PA RTI CUL AR TH E CASE IN STEEL AND PI NK GOLD, THE OL IVE-SHAPED PUSHERS, THE TEARDROP LUGS AND THE CHAMPAGNE-COLOURED DIAL WITH NUMERALS IN AN ART DECO-STYLE FONT. ALIGNING THIS [RE]MASTER01 WITH CONTEMPORARY TASTES ARE THE LARGER 40MM DIAMETER.MUSÉE ATELIER AUDEMARS PIGUET. THE MAISON DES FONDATEURS, WHERE JULES LOUIS AUDEMARS AND EDWARD AUGUSTE PIGUET OPENED THEIR FIRST WORKSHO P IN 1875, CONN ECTS WITH AN ULTR A-CO NTE MPOR A RY GLASS SP IRAL DESIGNED BY BJARKE INGELS GROUP. THE REMARKABLE MECHANISMS AND DESIGNS THAT HAVE TAKEN SHAPE HERE IN THE VALLÉE DE JOUX FOR MORE THAN TWO CENTURIES ARE PRESENTED INSIDE THIS EXCEPTIONAL SETTING. AT THE CENTRE OF THE SPIRAL, THE GRANDES COMPLICATIONS AND MÉTIERS D’ART WO RKS HOP S GI VE VI SITOR S A RA RE OPPOR TUN ITY TO SEE WATC HMAK ERS WORKIN G ON HIG HLY COM PLEX PIECES , IN A CON TINUAT I ON OF TH E SAVOI R-FAI RE THAT PRODUCED THE 300 TIMEPIECES ON DISPLAY. THIS AMBITIOUS ARCHITEC-TURAL PROJECT AND THE INNOVATIVE MUSEUM DESIGN WERE MADE POSSIBLE THROUGH COLLABORATION BETWEEN ARCHITECTS, ENGINEERS AND LOCAL ARTISANS WHO WORKED ALONGSIDE AUDEMARS PIGUET’S DEPARTMENTS TO CREATE THIS UNIQUE PERSPECTIVE ON THE MEASURING OF TIME.Innovative spiritEstablished in 1875, Audemars Piguet is opening its Musée Atelier in a new building that connects with the original premises of the Manufacture, testament to the vision of a brand that embraces past and future.FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 11

Page 12

12 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUSThe long viewNelson Mandela believed that “a winner is a dreamer who never gives up.” Never giving up is to take a long view of time. You could say Bertrand Piccard came into the world with this view, along with the ability to dream. Born to a family of scientiﬁc explorers, a family of pioneers, that he should carry on their quest was never in any doubt.How could it be otherwise when in 1931 your grandfather, the physicist Auguste Piccard, a friend of Einstein, became the ﬁrst man to observe Earth’s curvature by ascending into the stratosphere, to an altitude of 15,781 metres, in a hot-air balloon. When in 1960 your father, Jacques Piccard, took his Trieste bathyscaphe to the deepest point of the Mariana Trench, setting an absolute record at 10,916 metres and showing that life existed even this far beneath the surface. As for Bertrand Piccard himself, having circled the globe in a balloon, the Breitling Orbiter III, in 19 days, 21 hours and 47 minutes, he went on to launch the Solar Impulse solar-powered aircraft project. Together with André Borschberg, between March 2015 and July 2016 he completed the ﬁrst fully solar-powered circumnavigation of the globe.Every one of these explorations meant “never giving up”. Auguste began his experiments in the early 1920s yet it wasn’t until 1931 that he ﬁnally reached the stratosphere. Bertrand’s father spent 12 years working on the bathyscaphe that would take him to the deepest point of the ocean ﬂoor. As for Solar Impulse, it came about only after 15 years of intense work.As Bertrand Piccard is quick to point out, projects that take shape over the long term are also projects for the long term. His grandfather and father taught him a valuable lesson about the impact we have on our planet. Already in 1931, Auguste Piccard declared that “the question is not so much whether man can go further and populate other planets, but how we can organise ourselves to make life on Earth worth living.” Four decades later, in 1972, Jacques Piccard warned that “the public has not yet woken up to the extent and seriousness of pollution.”Time for actionThe time for talking is over. Now is the time for action. As the world entered a new millennium, Bertrand Piccard described his belief that “adventure in the twenty-ﬁrst century consists of using human ingenuity and mankind’s pioneering spirit to develop the quality of life that present and future generations deserve to have.”This urgency, “the only one in [his] life”, is all the more compelling because “we are responding to an exponential rate of destruction at a linear rate. It’s important we tell people we are heading for disaster but for this to have any sense, we need to be offering solutions, too.” He smiles the contented smile of a cat: “I love it when Greta Thunberg takes the stage ﬁrst because people then pay more attention to the solutions earmarked by my foundation.”Is scaling back production and consumption the solution? Piccard takes a more nuanced view: “Less growth creates unemployment which is the guarantee of social chaos. But continuing with quantitative growth creates environmental chaos. There is a way to reconcile the environment and the economy, and that is qualitative rather than quantitative growth. Currently we waste 50% of resources, 50% of energy, 50% of food. By replacing outdated, polluting systems with clean, efﬁcient systems we create jobs and wealth. We reconcile the short term with the long term.”Action not words: Piccard has set up the Solar Impulse Foundation to fast-track solutions that preserve the environment and enable economic growth. Its objective is to select one thousand solutions that are “logical more than just ecological, that can create jobs and generate proﬁt while also reducing polluting emissions and preserving natural resources.” (https://solarimpulse.com)Inner timeSometimes, we need to pause the “inner clock” that governs our life. Fully occupied or “fully empty”, we must learn to put time on hold, all the better to come back to it. “It’s called meditation or spirituality,” says Bertrand Piccard, quick to add that this has “nothing to do with the word religion. Ascending into the stratosphere, diving into an ocean abyss or ﬂying with nothing but the sun to keep you going, all of this gives you a different, deeper awareness of time. These are moments of absolute grace, where the long view of time fuses with the need for action and the fullness of the present.”He admits he’s still a long way from achieving this state permanently. There are urgent questions to be addressed ﬁrst, so that generations to come can enjoy a planet ﬁt for living.Pierre MaillardA conversation with Bertrand PiccardThree views of time© Solar Impulse — Bertrand Piccard12 WATCH YOUR TIME EDITORIAL

Page 13

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 13Ever since Cyrille Vigneron’s appointment as chief exec-utive in 2016, Cartier has been moving in a clear direc-tion. After concept watches bristling with high-mech innovation, and grand complication watches which make rarer, more targeted appearances, the Parisian ﬁrm is taking an overtly sensual, consensual approach to watch making. Cartier is back to being Cartier, one might say; more concerned with cultivating a particular frame of mind than wowing the audience with complex intermeshings of gears and wheels. Mr Vigneron himself has described this new line of thinking as “simple: to revisit or reprise models from Cartier’s heritage which remains rich in terms of the design, force and beauty of the collections. The idea is to take themes that had disappeared or become dormant, and have them evolve.” The brand is, to say the least, reaping what it has sown, conﬁrmed by Cyrille Vigneron’s afﬁrmation that “the success of the Panthère and the Santos has exceeded expectations.”The Panthère is where it all began, in 2017. A ﬂashback to the 1980s, the new Panthère immediately appealed to women with its square case, featuring eight screws around the bezel, and metal bracelet. Next in line, the following year, was the Santos, a design that ﬁrst saw daylight in 1904. A milestone in horological history, Cartier has transformed a legend into a living legend with skeleton and chronograph versions, as well as the curvier Santos-Dumont. The oval Baignoire, born in 1912, made its welcome return to Cartier’s collections last year. This year heralds the revival of the Pasha. “We are con-tinuing the strategy introduced three years ago to pay tribute to our icons,” says Cyrille Vigneron. “The Pasha is a celebration of simplicity and substance.”An icon for todayTrue to Mr Vigneron’s ﬁrm belief that successful watch brands cultivate a consistent identity, the Pasha was ripe for revival. It is, after all, an icon on more than one count. Back in the early 1930s, Louis Cartier received a request for a wristwatch that could be worn while swimming but wouldn’t look out of place at a swanky dinner party. Cartier’s answer was a characterful watch, distinguished by sword-shaped hands above a square minute track inside a round dial. In addition to an elegant design, this new watch was also a feat of technique for the era, with its robust and waterproof case, automatic movement and a screw-down crown cover attached to a chain. Discernibly new, it joined Cartier’s collections as of 1943 and was revisited in 1985 when it became the Pasha.“Pasha de Cartier is a cult watch,” notes its maker. “At the time of its launch, this powerful watch caught the eye of opinion leaders. Initially adopted by men, it was imme-diately appropriated by women. True to the original but even more sophisticated with a blue spinel or sapphire on the crown, interchangeable strap and space for a personal engraving under the crown cover, the Pasha de Cartier for the 2020s is classic yet contemporary, and as edgy as ever.”As if to prove that explorations of past icons are no obstacle to creativity, another of Cartier’s introductions this year is the Maillon. Under the custodianship of creative director Marie-Laure Cérède, this precious watch plays on the look of the classic chain-link bracelet by aligning the links sideways in a visual continuation of the hexagonal dial. “We wanted to deconstruct the bracelet and approach the design as a volume,” comments Ms Cérède. “The emotion comes from the tension and the movement.” And because Cartier is a brand for all times, it has extended the warranty on its watches to eight years. Eric DumatinMAILLON DE CARTIER WATCH. CREATIVIT Y IS SECOND NATURE AT CARTIER, AND THIS PRECIOUS MAILLON WATCH IS A PERFECT ILLUSTRATION. UNDER CREA-TIVE DIRECTOR MARIE-LAURE CÉRÈDE, IT PLAYS ON THE LOOK OF THE CLASSIC CHAIN-LINK BRACELET BY ALIGNING THE LINKS SIDEWAYS IN A VISUAL CONTIN-UATION OF THE HEXAGONAL DIAL. AND BECAUSE CARTIER IS A BRAND FOR ALL TIMES, IT HAS EXTENDED THE WARRANTY ON ITS WATCHES TO EIGHT YEARS.PASHA DE CARTIER WATCH. CARTIER REVISITS THE PASHA, WHICH BECAME PART OF THE BRAND’S COLLECTIONS IN 1985. DISTINGUISHED BY A SQUARE MIN UTE TRACK IN SID E A ROUN D DI A L, AD DIT ION AL FE ATUR ES ARE THE “CHA INE D” CR OW N AN D COVE R, CLOUS DE PAR I S ON TH E BR ACE LET AND 100- M E TRE WAT ER- RESISTANCE. THE MOVEMENT IS THE 1847 MC, AN AUTOMATIC CALIBRE WHOSE AMAGNETIC COMPONENTS ARE FURTHER PROTECTED BY A PARAMAGNETIC SHIELD. THIS NEW PASHA ALSO OFFERS MULTIPLE POSSIBILITIES FOR PERSON-ALISATION, STARTING WITH A SPACE UNDER THE CROWN COVER FOR A SECRET EN GRAVIN G. STRAP S CA N BE SWA PPE D IN AN D OU T WI TH A SING LE PUSH THANKS TO THE QUICKSWITCH SYSTEM, WHICH IS CAMOUFLAGED IN THE CASE BACK. FOR METAL BRACELETS, THE PATENTED SMARTLINK SYSTEM ADJUSTS FOR THE PERFECT FIT IN MERE SECONDS.Eternal iconsAfter fresh interpretations of the Santos and the Panthère, Cartier returns to another of its classic designs, the Pasha. Joining it this year is the Maillon, further illustration of the fabulous creativity the Parisian brand brings into play.CYRILLE VIGNERON, PRESIDENT & CEO CARTIER INTERNATIONAL

Page 14

Page 15

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 15360° expertiseLe Temps PoétiqueCollection Pont des AmoureuxMouvement automatique, rétrogradeet animation à la demande.Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme depuis 1906Boutique en ligne www.vancleefarpels.com - +33 1 70 70 02 63VCA_SWITZ_FR_WATCH YOUR TIME_SEPT24_PONT DES AMOUREUX_NUIT_2019_280x380.indd 1 16/06/2020 12:24At TAG Heuer 2019 was the year of the Monaco, a true icon of the brand, celebrating its ﬁrst half-century. Its dis-ruptive design coupled with a high-performance “engine” — Calibre 11, the ﬁrst automatic chronograph to come out of Switzerland — earned it a place in watchmaking history and on-screen when Steve McQueen wore one in the movie, Le Mans. “The ﬁve 169-piece anniversary series, all ﬁtted with Calibre 11, made quite an impres-sion,” notes Frédéric Arnault, who was appointed CEO of TAG Heuer in July this year. “The idea was to celebrate this legend and its disruptive design without ﬂooding the market. We want to retain the relative exclusivity of what is a highly sought-after watch.”Carrying on the festivities, 2020 marks 160 years since the brand was founded in the Swiss Jura region, in 1860, when innovation was already at its heart. The “face” of this 160th anniversary is yet another emblem from the brand’s history: the Carrera, introduced in 1963. The ﬁrst new release, in January, takes its cue directly from the 2447S, a silver-dialled Carrera from 1964. Next up, the Carrera Montreal borrows its unusual blue, yellow and red colour palette from a 1972 Carrera. Alongside these special editions, the regular collection is joined by eight stylish chronographs with plenty of sporting appeal, launched in July and September. “The Carrera is TAG Heuer’s top-selling collection and perfectly captures our history of precision timekeeping, in particular for motor racing,” comments Frédéric Arnault. “When designing these 2020 versions, teams worked hard to bring out the essence of the Carrera and transpose Jack Heuer’s vision to contemporary watches with a strong personal-ity. The objective is for this new Carrera to become the undisputed luxury chronograph on the market.”Avant-garde TechnologyThis attachment to its landmark models reﬂects efforts made last year to refocus TAG Heuer on clear founda-tions and build a solid and coherent platform. Current par tnerships in motor racing — the sport in which Heuer and, from 1985, TAG Heuer has always excelled - reﬂect this, as Frédéric Arnault explains: “We’ve entered into an innovative partnership with Porsche and together we’ve formed the TAG Heuer Porsche Formula E Team. The team competes in the Formula E Championship of which we are founding partner. Given the many values we have in common with Porsche, we envisage extending this collaboration over the coming months. At the same time, we continue to support the Aston Martin Red Bull Racing Formula 1 team, and are part of major dates in the F1 calendar such as the Monaco Grand Prix.”Putting a vintage label on TAG Heuer would, however, be taking a narrow view. Innovation is hardwired into the brand, as demonstrated by the invention, at the TAG Heuer Institute, of the world’s ﬁrst carbon com-posite balance spring, mounted on a balance wheel in an aluminium-based alloy. This avant-garde tech-nology equips the Carrera H02 Tourbillon Nanograph. Alongside groundbreaking developments in mechan-ical movements, the brand is making strides in con-nected technology with the presentation this year of a third-generation connected watch, followed by a special golf edition. Frédéric Arnault describes the TAG Heuer Connected as “the most stylish in its category. It reﬂects the brand’s pioneering spirit and attention paid both to the watch’s technology and design. Naturally, we will continue to invest in this area as we are buoyed by the market.” From mechanical to connected, TAG Heuer’s expertise covers 360°. Eric DumatinTAG HEUER CONNECTED GOLF EDITION. COMBINING ADVANCED TECHNOL-OGY WITH LONGSTANDING EXPERIENCE IN THE WORLD OF SPORTS, TAG HEUER INT RODUCES THE GOLF EDITION, THE THIRD GENER AT ION OF ITS CON-NECTED WATCH. THIS IS THE SECOND TIME THE BRAND HAS DEVELOPED A WATCH SPECIF ICA LLY FOR THE GOLF COM M UNI T Y: TH E FI RST WAS IN 2019 WIT H THE LAUNCH OF THE BEST-IN-CLASS TAG HEUER GOLF APP. DESIGNED AND DEVELOPED ENTIRELY IN-HOUSE BY AN EXPERT TEAM LED BY TAG HEUER CEO FRÉDÉRIC ARNAULT, THE TAG HEUER GOLF APP IS PACKED WITH FEATURES TO HE LP MAST ER THE CO URS E, SU CH AS 3D MAPP I NG, HA Z ARD S DISTANCE, SHOT TRACKING, SCORECARDS, PRO STATS AND THE NEW DRIVING ZONE FEATURE. THIS DIGITAL CADDIE WON’T CARRY YOUR BAG BUT IT WILL HELP YOU TAKE YOUR GAME TO THE NEXT LEVEL. “PLAYING WITH A TAG HEUER CONNECTED IS A TRUE GAME CHANGER THAT WILL GIVE ANY GOLFER AN IMMEDIATE COMPETI-TIVE EDGE,” EXPLAINS FRÉDÉRIC ARNAULT, CEO OF TAG HEUER.TAG HEUER CARRERA SPORT CHRONOGR APH E 44MM. AS PA RT OF ITS 16 0th ANNI -VERSARY CELEBRATIONS, THROUGHOUT 2020 TAG HEUER IS INTRODUCING NEW IT ERAT ION S OF ITS LEGEN DA RY CARRER A THAT AR E POWE RED BY THE HEUER 02 CA L IBRE — INC LUDI N G TH I S RETR O -ST YLED VERS I ON THAT PL AYS UP THE WATCH ’ S RACING PEDIGREE. THE MOVEMENT’S 168 COMPONENTS INCLUDE A COLUMN WHEEL FOR SMOOTHER FUNCTION IN G AND A VERTICAL CLUTCH FOR IM PROVED PRECISION. IT ALSO PROVIDES AN IMPRESSIVE 80-HOUR POWER RESERVE.After marking 50 years of the Monaco in 2019 and with the Carrera spearheading celebrations for the 160th anniversary of its founding, TAG Heuer makes clear its attachment to motor sports and mechanical innovation.FRÉDÉRIC ARNAULT, CEO TAG HEUER

Page 16

Page 17

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 17123Watch Your Time is offering an augmented reality experi-ence that makes your magazine the gateway to the digital world. Thanks to the easy-to-use technology of the Print Alive app, the talent of Marcel Van Luit, on the front cover, comes alive. It enhances the information on the printed page with videos, animated graphics, even content from our partners’ sites.Print Alive takes the Watch Your Time editorial message further by inviting you to enter the fabulous world of lux-ury timepieces. Step inside the manufacturing facilities of the most prestigious brands, contemplate mechanical complications in action, be a VIP guest at the major spor t-ing and cultural events sponsored by the great names in time measurement. It’s all possible, from the pages of your magazine. Augmented reality is exactly that: digi-tal technologies connecting media to deliver a wealth of richly illustrated content.For a very long time, one of the pleasures of reading was that we could picture our own image of the subject in question. Our imagination could run free, but were we getting an accurate, truthful view? Seeing “for real” what an article has to say, what a photo is illustrating, is now possible. Using a digital device, this experience does more than tell you about what’s being discussed on the page: it generates emotions, pride, and a true sense of belonging to a world with which we feel such a strong connection.We want you to become a knowledgeable member of our community. Download our Print Alive app, scan our interactive pages, and you’ll look at your magazine with new eyes!All our print editions now feature augmented reality content.Watch Your Time opens a new window on informationGET THE APP DOWNLOAD THE LATEST VERSION OF PRINT ALIVE FOR ANDROID OR IPHONE. THE AUGMENTED REALITY (AR) FUNCTION IS BUILT INTO THE APP.LAUNCH THE AR FUNCTION — AUGMENTED REALITY LOCATE THE AR SCAN BUTTON IN THE MENU. YOU CAN COME BACK TO THE MENU AT ANY TIME. TAP THE BUTTON AND YOUR PHONE’S CAMERA (FOR SCANNING) WILL DISPLAY. MAKE SURE YOU ALLOW THE APP TO ACCESS YOUR CAMERA. LOOK FOR THE ICON WATCH OUT FOR THE PRINT ALIVE ICON WHILE READING YOUR MAGAZINE.VIEW CONTENT USE YOUR PHONE TO SCAN THE MAGAZINE AND DIS-PLAY AUGMENTED REALITY CONTENT (VIDEOS, GRAPHICS, IMAGES) RELATING TO THE ARTICLE. YOU CAN MOVE THE CAMERA, SELECT THE SECTION YOU WANT AND WATCH VIDEOS IN FULL-SCREEN MODE ON YOUR PHONE.THE APP WAS DEVELOPED BY XTEND, THE SWISS AGENCY AT THE CUTTING EDGE OF AUGMENTED REALITY TECHNOLOGY (WWW.AUGMENTEDREALITY.CH).The best of both worlds. Print and digital are no longer mutually exclusive sources of information. Now you can browse a magazine using your mobile phone or tablet to complete the reading experience and get to the heart of the subjects that interest you.

Page 18

Page 19

Page 20

One thing we have learned from Chanel is to always expect the unexpected, and perhaps nowhere more than with its watches. Each is an accumulation of tiny details, all carefully studied, that never fails to take fans by surprise. The Code Coco watch is an excellent example of how the brand cultivates this art of the unexpected. Unveiled in November 2017, the concept behind this wristwatch was to create an original piece of jewellery that also gave the time on a dial that cross-references the immediately recognisable clasp of the 2.55 handbag. The project remained strictly under wraps right up until the launch, which only added to the surprise and no doubt emotion of the couture house’s numerous aﬁcio-nadas. The response to the Mademoiselle Privé Bouton will likely be the same. It is another remarkable demon-stration of the artistic crafts or métiers d’art that are so much a part of Chanel — a brand that has banned the use of exotic skins for its watch straps as part of its commitment to ethical and sustainable practices.The one that’s making the biggest impact in 2020 is, however, the J12, and for a simple reason: the watch that was hailed a twenty-ﬁrst century icon almost as soon as it was launched turns twenty this year. Chanel already piqued our curiosity a year ago, when the J12 was given a subtle revamp under the expert eye of Arnaud Chastaingt, Director of Chanel’s Watch Creation Studio since 2013. Rather than sweeping changes, Chastaingt introduced almost imper-ceptible updates to the vast majority of design elements, thus giving the J12 a completely new appearance without altering its essence. The result, in the words of Frédéric Grangié, President of Chanel Watches and Jewellery, is “an impalpable but very real impression of lightness that is both visible and invisible. Because the J12 can only ever be itself, it had to evolve. Without changing!”.Manufacture movementsThe most obvious transformation came from within, namely Calibre 12.1, a chronometer-grade movement, certiﬁed by the Contrôle Ofﬁciel Suisse des Chronomètres, that delivers 70 hours of power reserve. Winding is by a tungsten rotor which Chanel’s Watch Creation Studio insisted be a perfect circle: one of the signatures of a Chanel Fine Watch. As usual, the brand caught everyone off-guard when it revealed that the new calibre was manufactured by Kenissi, which also supplies movements to Tudor, sister brand to Rolex. And because Chanel swears by long-term collaborations, it went on to announce it had taken a stake in Kenissi. Chanel had already proved itself capable of developing and producing high-quality movements at its own facilities, G&F Châtelain (which also supplies the brand’s signature ceramics), as bril-liantly demonstrated by the Haute Horlogerie Calibres 1, 2 and 3. This time, though, it was entering a new dimension.Calibre 12.1 has given Chanel a robust, precise and reliable base movement; a strategic advantage for any watch brand. “The J12 is one of our icons,” notes Frédéric Grangié. “The new J12, remarkably remodelled by Arnaud Chastaingt, has been given an exceptionally positive reception. We can truly say the back is as worthy of attention as the front, as it is now possible to admire the movement through a sapphire crystal. The J12 is in a category of its own. Not only is it such an important pillar for Chanel, it exists beyond the brand as an icon of watchmaking. This reworking guarantees its long-term future. A lot has happened since Chanel’s watchmaking division was set up 33 years ago, from the point of view of creations and integration, with Manufacture Chatelain, as well as partnerships and stakeholdings, such as with Romain Gauthier, F.P.Journe and Kenissi. This gives us true legitimacy. Now Chanel can expand its technical excellence, in particular with the new J12 and its new movement.”Marking this anniversary year are the J12 X-Ray, made entirely from sapphire — a world-ﬁrst — with Calibre 3.1 for the movement, and the J12 Paradoxe whose case fuses black and white ceramic in a technical tour de force. Both are stunning creations, but coming from Chanel, are we really surprised? Eric DumatinCHANEL J12 X-RAY. IN 2020 CHANEL CELEBRATES THE TWENTIETH ANNIVER-SARY OF THE J12, A TIMEPIECE THAT WAS HAILED AS THE T WENTY-FIRST CENTU-RY’S FIRST ICONIC WATCH. LAST YEAR, AHEAD OF THIS MILESTONE, THE BRAND INTRODUCED A SUBTLE REVAMP, MAKING ALMOST IMPERCEPTIBLE UPDATES THAT GAVE THE J12 A NEW APPEARANCE WHILE PRESERVING ITS IDENTITY. THIS J12 X-R AY IS A LIMITED EDITION OF 12, FITTED WITH A SPECIALLY SKELETONISED VERSION OF THE CALIBRE 3.1 IN-HOUSE MOVEMENT. ENTIRELY TRANSPARENT, TH E X-R AY IS CLOA KED IN SAP PHIR E FROM CAS E TO BR ACE LET TO DIAL . EVEN TH E MAINPLATE, MINUTE TRACK BRIDGE AND THE BRIDGE FOR THE GEARTRAIN ARE SAPPHIRE: A TECHNICAL TOUR DE FORCE AS WELL AS A WORLD-FIRST. ADDING BRILLIANCE TO TRANSPARENCY ARE THE BAGUETTE DIAMONDS THAT GARNISH THE BEZEL AND THE DIAL.CHANEL J12 PARADOXE. THE PAR A DOXE COM BINES THE J12’S SIG NAT URE BLACK AND WHITE IN A SINGLE CERAMIC CASE. THE TWO PARTS OF DIFFERENT DIMEN-SIONS ARE CUT, FUSED THEN ASSEMBLED ON A METAL FRAME, WHICH IS FITTED WITH A SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL FOR THE CASEBACK. KEEPING THE BEAT IS CALIBRE 12.1, MANUFACTURED BY KENISSI FOR CHANEL.Pioneer of timeChanel’s J12 is twenty years young. After last year’s subtle but significant transformation, the Parisian house presents two stunning new iterations: one, a world-first, entirely in sapphire, and one merging black and white ceramic.FRÉDÉRIC GRANGIÉ, CEO, CHANEL WATCHES & FINE JEWELLERY* A la poursuite de demain / Chronographe de course original / Ne craquez pas sous la pression / Photographie retouchéeCarrera_Elegant_Chrono_Lifestyle_driver_FR_280x380mm.indd 1Carrera_Elegant_Chrono_Lifestyle_driver_FR_280x380mm.indd 1 13.08.20 16:2313.08.20 16:2320 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS

Page 21

Page 22

Dolce VitaIn the calm before the Covid-19 storm, LVMH’s watch brands, led by Bvlgari, were able to showcase their newest releases at the LVMH Watch Week, organised in Dubai in January. “This proved to be a rather premonitory and fortunate initiative as just a few days later, the coronavirus was bringing the world to a standstill,” comments Jean-Christophe Babin, Chief Executive of the brand which was established in Rome in 1884. “Thanks to Watch Week, as of January Bvlgari was able to cover around 60% of its sales forecast for 2020. Despite the crisis, we’ve worked hard to create the right conditions to come back strongly. We want to be in a position to return to 2019’s record level in 2021, thanks in particular to a number of new watch and jewellery products.”After the presentation in Dubai of the extraordinary Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon, whose BVL150 movement incorpo-rates the smallest tourbillon currently on the market, the Geneva Watch Days event, held end August, gave Bvlgari yet another opportunity to show off its savoir-faire. “We unveiled three major new releases over the four days, starting with our sixth world record in the Octo Finissimo line. We also showed a new Gérald Genta watch which marks the second stage in the relaunch of this legendary brand, as well as an entirely new collection of laidback men’s sport watches, geared towards the economic climate and a young, informal clientele.”“Bvlgari will continue to astonish”Bvlgari is a multi-talented brand, as Jean-Christophe Babin conﬁrms: “We have a remarkably broad creative spectrum. Bvlgari is not just active in the watch segment. We are a global luxury brand. Jewellery-making, which is our core signature, and watchmaking have much in common with respect to the techniques and the crafts they employ, hence why these two sectors work closely together at Bvlgari, creating wonderful opportunities for the brand. This is particularly true in the women’s watch segment, although this doesn’t exclude men’s watches as demonstrated by the recent Octo Roma Tourbillon with its sapphire and malachite case. Rest assured that Bvlgari will continue to astonish.”Developments in the brand’s luxury hotel and resort port-folio conﬁrm this. The current offering of six destinations in Milan, London, Dubai, Bali, Beijing and Shanghai will be joined by new openings. Plans to expand to Paris, Rome, Moscow and Tokyo have already been announced. Says Jean-Christophe Babin, “We will continue to develop the Bvlgari Hotels & Resorts division where we see necessary, in major cosmopolitan cities such as Los Angeles or in the Maldives. We’re not talking here about simply hotels: these are immersive, exclusive experiences that provide far more than hotel service, even ﬁve-star. Ultimately, we aim to have around twenty properties, each offering welcoming and reﬁned Italian hospitality at exceptional locations such as the Piazza Augusto Imperatore in Rome, across from the Mausoleum of Augustus, the ﬁrst Roman emperor.”Watches remain central to the brand, whose ﬁrst time-pieces were introduced in the 1920s. Originally heavily jewelled pieces, from 1977 they became the expression of a style that uses strong shapes to express vastly imag-inative designs. “We’re working on our ﬂagship lines,” says Jean-Christophe Babin, “starting with Serpenti and Lvcea for women’s watches. For men, this obviously means the Octo. Alongside these three collections, which form the backbone of our watch offering, we present other lines which are also performing extremely well, such as Diva and Bvlgari. These various collections provide a solid foundation for Bvlgari’s watch division, with the addition of exceptional and often one-of-a-kind high jewellery creations.” Christophe RouletBVLGARI ALUMINIUM. THE BVLGARI ALUMINIUM 2020 REKINDLES THE FLAME OF THE FIRST-GENERATION MODELS INTRODUCED IN 1998. IT SPEAKS A UNIVER-SAL LANGUAGE THAT GOES BEYOND GENDER, AGE, TRENDS, ERAS OR SOCIAL PROFILES. MORE THAN TWENTY YEARS HAVE PASSED AND THE COLLECTION IS AS FRESH AS EVER. TWENTY YEARS AGO, THE BVLGARI ALUMINIUM WAS PART OF THE MOST IMPORTANT MOMENTS OF AN ENTIRE GENERATION. NOW A NEW GENERATION AWAITS.BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO TOUR BILLON CHRONOGR APH SK ELETON AU TOMATIC. FUELLED BY PASSION, DRIVEN BY EXCELLENCE, THE OCTO LINE CONTINUES TO CH ALLENGE BOUNDARIE S WI TH A SIX TH WO RLD RECORD: THE OCTO FINISSI MO TO U RBILLO N CHR O N OGR APH SK E LETO N AU TO M AT I C. TH E EXTRA-T H I N AU TOM AT I C MOVEMENT AT ITS HEART INCORPORATES A MONOPUSHER CHRONOGRAPH AND A TOURBILLON, YET MEASURES A MERE 3.50MM HIGH AND DELIVERS 50 HOURS OF POWER RES ERVE. TH IS EXC EPTI ONA L CA LIBR E IS HOU SED INS IDE A TITANI U M CASE, 7.40MM THICK. EVER SINCE ITS INTRODUCTION IN 2014, THE OCTO FINIS-SIM O HA S SE T A NE W STANDAR D FO R TH INNESS WHIL E TU RNIN G HE A DS WITH ITS ST RIKI NGLY BOLD DES IGN . THI S EXPER TISE IS REPE ATED IN BVLGA RI’S WOMEN’S WATCH COLLECTIONS: THE SERPENTI SEDUTTORI, INTRODUCED EARLIER THIS YEAR, CONTAINS THE SMALLEST TOURBILLON ON THE MARKET.Born as a jeweller, Bvlgari has since developed its multiple creative talents in watches, then in accessories, fragrances and luxury hotels. All with the same enthusiasm and distinctly Italian flair.JEAN-CHRISTOPHE BABIN, CEO BVLGARILMH_HQ • Visual: Arceau LHDLL • Magazine: Watch_your_Time 1 (FR) • Language: French • Issue: 24/09/2020Doc size: 280 x 380 mm • Calitho #: 07-20-141739 • AOS #: HER_02096 • AD 20/07/2020LE TEMPS, UN OBJET HERMÈS.Arceau, L’heure de la lune Le temps est dans la lune.22 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS

Page 23

Page 24

Page 25

Illustrator Marcel Van Luit @ADB Agency The means by which we measure time have evolved at the demand of science or in situations where lives are at risk. Astronomers were the ﬁrst to require clocks of greater precision. Stargazing was no longer a form of divination but a science that called for instruments capable of providing measurements to the nearest second, if astronomers were to produce models of the cosmos and calculate the relative position of the celestial bodies within the range of their telescopes. This was their only means of detecting, quantifying and interpreting any change in the movement of a given star or planet.Seafaring explorers would also come to appreciate the need for accurate time measurement. In 1714 the British Parliament passed the Longitude Act which offered a prize of £20,000 — a colossal amount — “for such person or persons as shall discover the longitude at sea”. Conditions stipu-lated that the calculation should be accurate to half a degree (around thir ty nautical miles) after forty days at sea. Time was the crux of the matter. If a sailor could observe that it was solar noon and know the time at the port from which the ship had set sail, he could then convert this time difference into degrees of angle and plot the ship’s position.Simple enough… provided the vessel carried a reliable clock, capable of keeping accurate time on a pitching and rolling ship. Watchmaking’s greatest minds set about the task of building such a device but the solution was ultimately found, in 1759, by a carpenter and self-taught clockmaker, John Harrison. His H4 — which could be described as the ﬁrst ever precision pocket watch — lost just ﬁve seconds a month and would change the face of the world. Others would make ample use of Harrison’s ﬁndings to build more of these “marine chronometers” that took Britain’s Royal Navy towards new colonial territories and opened up vast opportunities for trade.Explorers setting sail for distant lands also used these precision timekeep-ers that were protected from dust, rain, sea spray and vibrations in solid mahogany cases. Come the 1900s, the pocket watch and later the wrist-watch were vital equipment for any expedition. Whether scaling mountains, crossing deserts or cutting a path through tropical forest, these intrepid explorers could count on accuracy to the second. Their watches were robust, ideally waterproof and if possible, offered an additional function. For example, a 24-hour hand can be used to ﬁnd north and south; spele-ologists can use it to keep track of day and night.A matter A matter of survivalof survival--o------- Peter BraunPASHA DE CARTIER. THE PASHA DE CARTIER WATCH, SHOWN HERE IN THE SKELETONISED VERSION, IS A VISUAL STATEMENT: THAT OF A SQUARE MINUTE TRACK INSIDE A ROUND CASE AND DIAL. THE DESIGN IS ALSO IN THE DETAIL OF A "CHAINED" CROWN, PROTECTED BY A REMOVABLE CROWN COVER. THIS IS ALSO A WATCH WITH MULTIPLE POSSIBILITIES FOR PERSONALISATION: ENGRAVED INITIALS CAN BE SECRETLY INSCRIBED UNDER THE CROWN COVER; THE QUICKSWITCH SYSTEM, CAMOUFLAGED IN THE CASE BACK, CHANGES STRAPS WITH A SINGLE PUSH; FOR METAL BRACELETS, THE PATENTED SMARTLINK SYSTEM ADJUSTS FOR THE PERFECT FIT IN MERE SECONDS. THE MOVEMENT IS THE 9624 MC SKELETON AUTOMATIC CALIBRE WITH 48 HOURS OF POWER RESERVE.Accurate time measurement hasn’t always been as readily available as it is today, including in environments — at sea, underwater or in the sky — where every second really does count.I think the prime reason for existence, for living in this world, is discovery.—James Dean ( 1931 — 1955 )>EXPLORATION WATCH YOUR TIME 25

Page 26

V VIIVIIIIIIIIIII26 WATCH YOUR TIME EXPLORATIONI · ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL GMT-MASTER II. DESIGNED TO SHOW THE TIME IN TWO DIFFERENT TIME ZONES SIMULTANEOUSLY, TH E GM T- M AST ER, LAU NCHE D IN 1955 , WAS ORI G INA LLY DE V ELOPED AS A NAVIG ATIO N IN STRU-MENT FOR FREQUENT FLYERS CRISS-CROSSING THE GLOBE. HEIR TO THE ORIGINAL MODEL, THE GMT-MAS-TER II WAS UNVEILED IN 1982, WITH A NEW MOVEMENT ENSURING EASE OF USE.II · ULYSSE NARDIN MARINE TOURBILLON BLUE. ULYSS E NARDIN’S TOURBILLON CHRONOMETERS ORIGINATE IN THE LATE NINETEENTH CENTURY, WHEN THE TOUR-BILLON’S PRIMARY FUNCTION WAS TO MAKE UP FOR ERRORS IN RATE CAUSED BY GRAVITATIONAL PULL. THE MARINE TOURBILLON CARRIES ON THIS TRADI-TION. THE MOVEMENT IS THE IN-HOUSE UN-128 FLYING TOURBILLON.III · HUBLOT AER OFUSION CH RONOGRAPH UEFA CHAM -PIONS LEAGUE. HUBLOT, AS UEFA’S OFFICIAL WATCH PARTNER, PRESENTS THIS 100-PIECE LIMITED EDITION IN BLUE CERAMIC. ONE OF ITS MOST STRIKING FEA-TURES IS THE THREE-DIMENSIONAL DIAL. THE BLACK-ENED BRIDGES OF THE HUB1155 SK ELETON MOVEMENT ALSO SERVE AS A PLATFORM FOR THE TRANSPARENT SAPPHIRE DIAL.IIII · PANERAI LUMINOR MARINA FIBRATECH™. THIS MODEL IN FIBRATECH™ CELEBRATES THE 70TH ANNIVER-SARY OF THE PATENT FOR LUMINOR, A TRITIUM-BASED, LU M I NOU S SU B STA N CE DE V ELOPED BY PANE R A I . FI B R AT-ECH™ IS AN ECO-SUSTAINABLE MATERIAL BORROWED FROM THE AEROSPACE INDUSTRY THAT IS MADE WITH FI B RES PRODU CED FR OM THE FUSI ON OF BA SA LT ROCK AND MINERAL ADDITIVES.V · BAUME & MERCIER CLASSIMA CHRONOGRAPH COM-PLETE CALENDAR AUTOMATIC. THIS NEW ADDITION TO THE CLASSIMA COLLECTION COMBINES TWO USEFUL COMPLICATIONS: A CHRONOGRAPH WITH 60-SECOND, 30 - M INU TE AND 12- HOUR COUNTER S, AND A TR I PLE CA L-EN DA R SH OWING DAY AND MO NTH IN APER TUR ES, DATE BY HAND, A 24-HOUR INDICATION AND MOON PHASES.VI · TAG HEUER FORMULA 1 ASTON MARTIN RED BULL RACING SPECIAL EDITION. GIVING SHAPE TO TAG HEUER’S ONGOING ALLIANCE WITH ASTON MARTIN RED BU LL RACIN G IS TH I S ULTRA-RO BUS T 43 MM CHRO N -OGRAPH THAT TAKES ITS CUE FROM THE NEW ASTON MARTIN RED BULL RACING FORMULA 1 CAR. THE BLUE OF THE CAR IS FOUND ON THE WATCH’S DIAL AND ALU-MINIUM FIXED BEZEL.VII · GIRARD-PERREGAUX LAUREATO ABSOLU TE WW.TC.THIS ABSOLUTE WW.TC WORLDTIMER SWAPS THE LAU -REATO’S CLASSIC LINES FOR A SPORTING AESTHETIC. THE OCTAGONAL BEZEL SITS ABOVE A BROADER CASE MIDDLE WITH TAUTER LINES. SO AS TO ACCENTUATE THIS NEW DESIGN, THE CASE (WHICH IS WATER-RE-SISTANT TO 300 METRES) IS CUT FROM BLACK PVD-TREATED TITANIUM.Watchmakers take to the skyThe ﬁrst pilot’s watch had only one special feature and that was a leather strap. Pilots navigated by sight, relying on landmarks such as railway lines or roads every few miles. If fog, rain or snow deprived them of a clear view of the land below, planes remained grounded. In the 1920s and 30s the idea that planes could become a viable means of transportation prompted a series of sensational long-distance ﬂights that put immense strain on both aircraft and pilot. Passenger seats were stripped and replaced by additional fuel tanks, leaving these brave adventurers to ﬂy for hours, sometimes days, above uninhabited regions and endless expanses of ocean with no crew to rely on and only themselves for company.These pilots worked out their position much the same way as the seafarers and explorers of centuries earlier, using time at the point of take-off, a sextant and a nautical almanac. Except the methods that had proved their worth on ships advanc-ing at the rate of a few knots were hardly suited to planes that could travel at speeds approaching 300 mph. Pilots had to perform the many calculations required to ﬁx position incredibly quickly and while still focusing on the business of actually ﬂying the plane. Well aware of the difﬁculties this implied, U.S. Navy Lieutenant Commander Philip Van Horn Weems invented a rotating and lockable bezel inscribed with a 60-seconds scale that could be used to synchronise a wristwatch to a radio time signal without stopping the movement.After making the ﬁrst solo ﬂight across the Atlantic, from New York to Paris in 33 hours, Charles A. Lindberg set about improving Weems’ system, and in 1931 the hour angle watch gave pilots a means of calculating longitude in degrees and minutes of arc. Boasting an impressive 47.5mm diameter, Lindbergh’s watch was rapidly adopted by other aviators, who strapped it on top of their thick ﬂying jacket or around the thigh. As technology progressed, ﬁrst with radar then the Global Positioning System (GPS), manual navigational aids were no longer the vital instruments they had once been. How many people today remember the role these watches played in bringing pilots safely to land?Time under the seaJacques-Yves Cousteau may have declared that more than 90% of the planet’s surface was underwater, the ﬁrst excursions beneath the seas were to military rather than scientiﬁc ends, using the murky blackness to operate under cover. In 1936 the Royal Italian Navy commissioned Guido Panerai — a manufacturer in Florence of torpedo launchers, sighting devices, depth gauges, compasses and pocket lamps for underwater use — to produce a fully waterproof wristwatch for its nascent combat divers unit. An important speciﬁcation of this watch was to be legible in complete darkness. This high visibility, still one of the distinguishing features of a Panerai watch, originally came from Radiomir, a luminescent paint that Panerai patented in 1914, made from zinc sulphate and radium bromide.Rolex in Switzerland became the ﬁrst brand to equip one of its watches, the Turn-O-Graph, with a rotating bezel for the calculation of dive times, in 1953. It was A

Page 27

Page 28

I IIIIIIIIIV VIIVI28 WATCH YOUR TIME EXPLORATIONI · PATEK PHILIPPE ALARM TRAVEL TIME REF 5520P. PATEK PHILIPPE PRESENTS A NEW AUTOMATIC-WINDING GRANDE COMPLICATION THAT COMBINES ITS EXCLUSIVE DUAL TIME ZO NE TR AVEL TIME SYSTEM FEAT URIN G TWO CENTRAL HOUR HANDS (ONE SOLID AND ONE SKELE-TONI SED) WITH A 24-HO UR AL ARM MEC HANI SM SOUN D-ING A CLASSIC HAMMER AND GONG STRIKE.II · BLANCPAIN AIR COMMAND. WHILE NO-ONE KNOWS THE EXACT CIRCUMSTANCES SURROUNDING THE CRE-ATION OF THIS CHRONOGRAPH, DEVELOPED IN THE 19 50S FOR U. S. AI R FO RCE PILOTS, IT’ S A FACT THAT VERY FEW WERE PRODUCED, MAKING THIS A UNICORN FOR COLLECTORS. THIS 500-PIECE LIMITED EDITION STAYS TR UE TO THE ORIGI NAL FOR MA XIM U M VI NTAGE APPE A L .III · JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER CONTROL CHRONO-GRAPH CALENDAR. INTRODUCED IN 1992, THE MASTER CONTROL TAKES ITS NAME FROM THE 1000 HOURS CONTROL CERTIFICATION. THE COLLECTION RETURNS TO TH E SP OTL IGH T, INCLUDI NG WI TH THIS MODEL THAT FE ATURES A BI- COMPAX CHRONO, A TRIPLE CALENDAR AND MOON PHASES. A FIRST FOR JAEGER-LECOULTRE.IIII · AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE SELF-WINDING CHRONOGRAPH. THE ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE WAS DESTINED FOR ADVENTURE RIGHT FROM ITS LAUNCH IN 1993, AND THIS 44MM CHRONO IN KHAKI IS NO EXCEP TION . STAND OUT FE ATURES ARE THE CERAMI C BE Z EL, PUS HER S AN D SC REW-LOC K ED CROWN , A MEGA TAP I SSE R IE DI A L , ST URDY RUBBE R ST R A PS, INCLUDING A CA M OUFL AGE OP TION , AN D A 100-METR E DE P TH RATI N G .V · LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR WORLD TIME RUNWAY. TH E TA M BOUR’S SPO RTY VI BE MEETS A ST YLISH WORL D TIME FUNCTION INSIDE A 46MM BI-METAL CASE IN PINK GOLD AND BLACK PVD-TREATED STEEL. THE DIAL, DIS-TINGUISHED BY A NEW ARCHITECTURE AND DESIGN CODES, IS CRAFTED IN-HOUSE BY LOUIS VUITTON’S VIRTUOSO DIAL-MAKERS.VI · TISSOT HERITAGE NAVIGATOR CHRONO AUTO 1973.A YEAR AFTER THE RUNAWAY SUCCESS OF THE FIRST-GENERATION TISSOT HERITAGE NAVIGATOR CHRONO AUTO 1973, THE BRAND RETURNS WITH A SECOND SERIES OF THIS TONNEAU-SHAPED CHRONO. INNOVATORS BY TR ADIT ION, TIS SOT IS LAUNCH ING THIS EYE-CATCHIN G TI M EPI EC E AS PART OF ITS PAR TNERSH I P WITH THE KESSEL CLASSICS RACING TEAM.VII · LONGINES LEGEND DIVER WATCH. LONGINES IS ALWAYS HAPPY TO REVISIT THE WATCHES THAT HAVE HELPED FORGE ITS RENOWN. THIS LONGINES LEGEND DIVER WATCH REIMAGINES A 1960S MODEL. ALL THE WHI LE CONSERVING THE ER A’S T YPICAL STYLE CODES AN D DE SIG N EL EMENTS , TH IS CONTEMPO R ARY ED ITIO N BENEFITS FROM LONGINE’S EXPERTISE TO GUARANTEE LEGIBILITY, WATER-RESISTANCE AND PRACTICALITY.followed a year later by the Submariner. Certiﬁed water-resistant to 100 metres, the Submariner would be the inspiration for every modern dive watch. Also around this time, Captain Robert “Bob” Maloubier and First Lieutenant Claude Riffaud of the French Navy’s elite unit of commando frogmen were given the mission to develop a watch that divers could use to monitor the time remaining before their air supply ran out. Underwater breathing apparatus was still in its early stages and few divers ventured beneath the sea with this new system, meaning scant opportunity to test instruments for reliability at a depth of 100 metres. It would be a Swiss maker, Blancpain, that provided the French with a watch that met with speciﬁcations. Named the Fifty Fathoms after its depth rating (around 91 metres), it was originally for military issue only, unlike the Rolex Submariner.Earth’s oceans revealed themselves to be a rich source of food and raw materi-als, in particular oil deposits. After military frogmen, saturation divers employed by companies such as Comex, Ocean Systems and Oceaneering, which provided deep-sea diving services, often for oil companies, were next to make use of pro-fessional dive watches.Time in spaceMuch as the ﬁrst astronauts and cosmonauts were recruited among ﬁghter pilots, the ﬁrst space missions sourced their equipment among everyday objects. Yuri Gagarin orbited Earth with an ordinary military-issue watch strapped to his wrist. When NASA wanted a watch for its piloted missions, it sent an employee to a retailer’s in downtown Houston to purchase a selection of chronographs for testing. No-one knew exactly what the astronauts’ equipment would have to endure, and so NASA imposed rigorous tests on all the watches before ﬁnally choosing the robust Omega Speedmaster, a manually-wound chronograph.The importance of a rugged, reliable, highly precise mechanical watch even in the high-tech environment of a spacecraft was made abundantly clear when the Apollo 13 mission in 1970 came close to disaster. After an electrical failure rendered the navigational computers inoperative, the astronauts had to manually calculate the precise time to ﬁre the engine boost and re-enter Earth’s atmosphere at the right angle. They did so using their Omega Speedmaster chronograph. This year marks the 50th anniversary of an event Omega is unlikely to forget. ˇ

Page 29

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 29Stupendous 70One number stands out at Panerai this year, and that number is 70. For the 70th anniversary of Luminor. And for the 70-year warranty that now accompanies a selection of its new watches. The oceans and the fascination they hold for those ﬁghting to preserve them; innovation and breakthrough materials; sustainable development and the determination to protect our planet: the frisson of adventure… it takes a special kind of magic for a single watch brand to tick so many boxes. Panerai is one of them. At the wheel is Jean-Marc Pontroué, appointed two years ago to head the brand whose Italian origins are as strong as its Swiss-powered expertise. This experienced marathon runner has imposed a strong and steady pace on the brand that continues to surprise, as much with its products as for its commitment to sustainability.To many, Panerai could have seemed stuck in its ways, fervently devoted to preserving the original traits of its Luminor and Radiomir collections. This heritage, Jean-Marc Pontroué believes, is essential to the brand’s identity but has to be seen as looking forward, not back. Driving the point home, one of the ﬁrst things he did in his new role was to give a fresh face to the Submersible — a range of robust dive watches that made such a strong impression when introduced in 2019 they are now the brand’s third pillar. Keeping up the momentum, Pontroué went on to announce a partnership with Luna Rossa, one of the challengers for the 36th America’s Cup whose ﬁnal will be raced in Auckland, New Zealand, in 2021. The team’s ofﬁcial watch is the Luminor Luna Rossa GMT in titanium; its dial is covered with a thin layer of the same high-tech sail fabric used on Luna Rossa’s AC75 monohull — a reminder that innovation is ingrained in the brand.“Successful brands are the ones that give their products sub-stance,” says Jean-Marc Pontroué. At Panerai, this quest begins at its “Laboratorio di Idee” R&D division, where a ﬁfteen-strong team works full-time to develop movements and materials that will further boost the properties that are the added value of a Panerai watch: lightness, shock- resistance, water-resistance, resistance to temperature changes, and reliability. This year, the brand is showing off the results of this strategy with the introduction of cutting-edge materials such as 3D-printed DMLS (Direct Metal Laser Sintering) titanium, Fibratech™, obtained from natural and eco-sustainable ﬁbres, and Carbotech™, which is a carbon-polymer composite. The logical though no less extraordinary conclusion is that a selection of Luminor Marina watches made from these materials are sold with an unprecedented 70-year warranty.Eco-consciousIt’s no coincidence that Panerai singled out the Luminor to showcase these latest innovations: 2020 marks 70 years since the invention of Luminor, a tritium-based self-lu-minous substance. To celebrate this milestone in its history, Panerai has unveiled boutique editions of the three Luminor Marina watches made from the afore-mentioned futuristic materials, and their glow-in-the-dark properties are impossible to ignore. Whereas lume would normally be applied only to the hands and hour markers, in this instance new- generation “X1” Super-LumiNova™ extends to the crown guard, the ﬂange, even the stitching on the strap. Formulated to glow brighter and for longer, its impact is reinforced by the various cases’ stealth colours.Ever since Jean-Marc Pontroué took over at the helm, Panerai has also been ﬁnding ways to create a buzz around its watches. This includes coupling some limited editions with a once-in-a-lifetime experience that a few lucky cus-tomers get to share with some of the greatest contemporary explorers. Foremost among them is extreme adventurer Mike Horn, chosen not just for his courage and determi-nation but also for the environmental causes he defends. Panerai has dedicated a limited-edition Submersible to him. Its case is made from EcoPangaea™, a high-tech steel that uses metal repur.posed from the drive shaft of Horn’s sailing ship. “We’ve succeeded in making a watch that’s 40% recycled material,” notes Jean-Marc Pontroué. “The aim is to reach 100% within the next year.” A new adventure begins for Panerai. Eric DumatinPANERAI LUMINOR LUNA ROSSA GMT. PANERA I’S NEW RELEASES FOR 2020 ARE AT THE CUTTING EDGE OF MATERIALS SCIENCE, THE GUARANTEE OF EXCEP-TIONAL RESILIENCE AND PERFORMANCE. THIS LUMINOR IS THE OFFICIAL WATCH OF LUNA ROSSA, CHALLENGER OF RECORD FOR THE 36th AMERICA’S CUP. THE TITA NIUM CASE ENCLOS ES A DI AL COVERED WITH A THIN L AYER OF THE TECHNI-CAL SAIL CLOTH USED ON THE TEAM’S AC75 MONOHULL.PANERAI LUMINOR MARINA TITANIO DMLS 44MM. SEVENTY YEARS AFTER THE INTRODUCTION OF LUMINOR—THE TRITIUM-BASED SELF-LUMINOUS SUBSTANCE THAT GAVE ITS NAME TO THE BRAND’S ICONIC LINE—, PANERAI RELEASES AN INNOVATIVE NEW MODEL: THE LUMINOR MARINA 44MM (PAM01117) WHICH COMES WITH A 70-YEAR WARRANTY. NEW-GENERATION SUPER-LUMINOVA X1 ON THE MARKERS AND NUMERALS GLOWS BRIGHTER AND FOR LONGER. THE WATCH OWES ITS ASTONISHINGLY LIGHT WEIGHT (100 GRAMS INCLUDING THE STRAP) AND EXCELLENT RESILIENCE TO ITS TITANIUM CASE. THIS IS PRODUCED USING DIRECT METAL LASER SINTERING (DMLS), A FUTURISTIC 3D PRINTING PROCESS IN WHICH TITANIUM POWDER, SINTERED BY A HIGH POWER FIBRE OPTIC LASER, TAKES A SOLID SHAPE THAT GROWS 30 MICRONS (0.03 MM) AT A TIME.JEAN-MARC PONTROUÉ, CEO PANERAIMIKE HORN, AMBASSADOR OF PANERAI

Page 30

Page 31

Page 32

Heritage and innovationDavid Chaumet wants to get one thing straight: the brand he’s headed since April 2019 (after eleven years at Roger Dubuis) is not surﬁng the seemingly unstoppable trend for vintage-inspired watches. Established in 1830 by brothers Louis-Victor and Célestin Baume as a comptoir or trading ofﬁce in the Swiss Jura, Baume & Mercier’s 190-year history goes far deeper, never straying from the brand’s ethos to “accept only perfection, only manufacture watches of the highest quality.”It’s a principle David Chaumet has taken to heart: “Fashion is one thing,” he says, “heritage is something else entirely, and it’s very important for Baume & Mercier. We are one of the ten oldest watch brands in Switzerland in continu-ous operation. The Hamptons we are launching this year reﬂect the many years of history behind the brand, and we shall continue to introduce more historic content to our watches in the future, while never losing sight of the fact that Baume & Mercier is a perfect balance of heritage and innovation.”One of the brand’s most talked-about innovations came two years ago, when it took the wraps off its ﬁrst in-house movement. Dubbed the Baumatic, this new- generation calibre maintains stable precision through-out its ﬁve days of power reserve, is unaffected by the magnetic ﬁelds that are a part of daily life, and will run for ﬁve years between services. It also beneﬁts from the latest developments in movement technology and has earned chronometer-grade certiﬁcation from the Contrôle Ofﬁciel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), the country’s ofﬁcial chronometer testing body. Better still, the Baumatic was designed from the outset as a base movement, able to accommodate additional modules and thus paving the way for subsequent versions with complications.A dynamic brandThis is precisely what the brand is offering this year, with two exciting new introductions to the Clifton line, which puts the Baumatic movement at its centre. One is a highly attractive day-date and moon-phase model in pink gold or steel, while the second, in steel, offers moon-phase and date indications. They are, says the brand, illustra-tions of the “passion and enthusiasm that drives Baume & Mercier, while reinforcing the substance of this clas-sically elegant collection.” Completing the line-up is a Clifton Baumatic date, certiﬁed by the COSC, in steel, pink gold, or two-tone steel and pink gold. All three versions are mounted on interchangeable straps and provide strong additions to a range that makes good the brand’s philosophy to produce quality, affordable time-pieces; a gateway to luxury.The second mainstay this year is the Hampton, which transposes the sculptural lines and symmetry of the Art Deco movement to its rectangular case. The 2020 new releases come in polished steel, in three sizes. The small versions, some with a smattering of diamonds, are ﬁtted with a quartz movement. For the medium and large sizes, the brand has preferred a mechanical automatic movement, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. Again, they are proposed with an interchangeable steel bracelet or leather strap, the latter in an impressive range of vibrant colours. However, the highlight of the collection has to be the Hampton automatic with large date, dual time zone and day/night indicator — a reminder that form watches account for some of Baume & Mercier’s ﬁnest hours — a brand almost 200 years young! Eric DumatinBAUME & MERCIER HAMPTON QUARTZ. THE HAM P TO N WATCH TRAN SPOSES THE SCULPTURAL LINES AND SYMMETRY OF ART DECO TO ITS RECTANGULAR CASE. IT S PU RE FORMS COM B INE WIT H PE RFECT LY BAL A NCE D PROPO RTI ONS TO BR I NG A SUBTLE FLUIDITY AND SOFTNESS, AND OFFER EASY READING OF THE TIME.BAUME & MERCIER CLIFTON BAUMATIC DAY-DATE MOONPHASE. POWERED BY THE BAUMATIC MOVEMENT, THIS LATEST ITERATION OF THE CLIFTON FEATURES DAY AND DAT E IN DICATI ONS BY HA NDS , AS WE LL AS A MOON -PH ASE DIS PLAY AT 6 O’CLOC K . TH I S IS TH E SECON D CO MPLI CAT ION TO JO IN THE CL IFTON LINE, AFTER TH E PE RPE T UA L CALE NDAR. THE 42 MM STEEL CASE WIT H SATIN - POLISHED DO U-BLE-BEVELLED EDGES PAIRS BEAUTIFULLY WITH THE GRADIENT GREY DIAL. TO RI NG THE CHANG ES , THE BLUE AL LIGATOR STRAP IS EASI LY SWAPP ED WITHOUT ANY SPECIAL TOOLS.BAUMATIC BM14 CALIBRE. BAUME & MERCIER MADE A STRONG MOVE IN 2018 WH EN IT PRE SEN TED TH E BAUMAT IC, IT S FIR ST IN-HO USE MOVEM ENT WHIC H MAI N -TA I NS STA B LE PRECIS ION THR OUGHOUT ITS FIVE DAYS OF POW ER RES ERVE AN D IS UNAFFECT ED BY MAG NETI C FIELDS. TH IS NE X T-G ENE R ATION CALIB RE, WHIC H HAS COSC CHRONOMETER CERTIFICATION, WAS DESIGNED AS A WORKHORSE MOVEMENT, READY TO ACCOMMODATE ADDITIONAL MODULES, AS ON THE DAY-DATE MOONPHASE VERSION.Clifton and Hampton are front and centre at Baume & Mercier, a brand dedicated to making quality watches that open the door to luxury.DAVID CHAUMET, CEO, BAUME & MERCIER32 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS

Page 33

Page 34

For Hans Wilsdorf, the world was a living laboratory. During the 1930s, the founder of Rolex used the world as a testing ground. The explorers who ventured into the unknown subjected Wilsdorf’s watches to extreme conditions in the most inhospitable regions of the globe. As exploration for the sake of discovery has given way to expeditions intended to highlight the fragility of ecosystems and the importance of preserving the natural world, Rolex has continued to support explorers on their new mission to make this a Perpetual Planet.In 1931 Rolex launched a revolutionary new watch: The Oyster Perpetual. “Oyster” because of its hermetically sealed case that protects the movement, as proven four years earlier by a young English woman, Mercedes Gleitze, who carried an Oyster throughout her cross-Channel swim. “Perpetual” because of its mechanism, introduced by Rolex in 1931, that derives an (almost) perpetual supply of energy from the move-ments of the wrist. The combination of the two gave rise to the ﬁrst ever water-resistant automatic wristwatch with a rotor that turns through a full 360° — a system that proved so efﬁ-cient it is now the basis for every modern automatic watch.Almost a century later, the Perpetual movement has become a symbol of reliability and continuity, a spirit that inspires Rolex in all its endeavours. This includes the extensive means the brand invests in environmental preservation through its Perpetual Planet campaign, launched in 2019.Perpetual Planet34 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS

Page 35

From exploration to preservationRolex’s commitment to a Perpetual Planet originated at the same time as the Oyster Perpetual, in the 1930s, when Hans Wilsdorf would equip adventurers and explorers with Rolex watches for them to test in the most extreme conditions, effectively transforming the world into a living laboratory that would conﬁrm the reliability and ruggedness of Rolex watches. This was a new age of adventure and who better to put the watches through their paces than these explorers who travelled to the ends of the earth, braving every environ-ment and defying the elements from the highest summit to the deepest abyss, from searing heat to icy cold.Rolex has supported numerous expeditions, including some of the twentieth century’s groundbreaking explorations. These can be human endeavours but also scientiﬁc missions to collect information with multiple applications.For example, the British crew of the ﬁrst expedition to ﬂy over Mount Everest, in 1933, wore Oyster watches. Twenty years later, in 1953, Rolex was part of the historic climb that saw Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay become the ﬁrst people to conquer the world’s tallest summit.From the highest peaks to the deepest oceans: in 1960 a prototype Oyster descended into the Mariana Trench, to a record depth of 10,916 metres. It was strapped to the hull of the Trieste bathyscaphe, piloted by Jacques Piccard and Don Walsh. It surfaced in perfect working order, despite the huge pressure sustained during the descent. Beyond the exploit it represented in watchmaking terms, the dive was of immense scientiﬁc value as it revealed the existence of unsuspected marine life and, in a pre-ecology age, created awareness of the fragility of these unexplored biotopes.Explorers are ﬁrst to set eyes on some of the planet’s unknown and so far undisturbed natural wonders; just as importantly, they alert us to the dangers that threaten these environments as well as the communities who live there.One by one, expeditions have shown how vulnerable an eco-system can be. At a time of growing concern over the conse-quences human development can have on the environment, exploration has a major role in protecting the natural world. This is the spirit behind Rolex’s commitment to a Perpetual Planet.A long-term commitmentThere is nothing incidental about Rolex’s activities to support environmental preservation. Profoundly linked to the brand’s history and the pioneering spirit of its founder, it has spanned the decades and takes multiple innovative forms, from sup-porting explorers to the Rolex Awards for Enterprise, the work of Rolex Testimonees and long-term partnerships.Rolex lends support to numerous scientiﬁc expeditions and pro-environmental explorations that can provide effective solutions to protect and preserve the planet for the long term.The Perpetual Planet initiative is remarkable for its consist-ency, scale and long-term vision. The main elements of the campaign — too vast to describe in detail here — are sum-marised below. ————————Sonam Wangchuck, 2016 laureate of the Rolex Awards for Enterprise — Ladakh, IndiaIce stupas provide water to irrigate thousands of trees. © Rolex/Stefan WalterPerpetual PlanetFOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 35

Page 36

1 23 436 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUSRolex Awards for EnterpriseSince 1976 the Rolex Awards for Enterprise have been pre-sented to 150 individuals from all backgrounds (out of the 34,000 people from 191 countries who have applied) for in-the-ﬁeld projects, whether in their early or advanced stages, which advance human knowledge, protect cultural heritage or help preserve natural habitats and species. Through the Awards, Rolex has contributed to the preservation of 17 eco-systems that are crucial for biodiversity and for the human communities that depend on them. It has also supported action to protect 25 endangered species, from the Amur tiger to the great whale shark — just a few examples among many.The 5 laureates of the 2019 Rolex Awards for EnterpriseJoão Campos-Silva — Brazil ( 1 )The largest scaled freshwater fish in the world — the giant ara-paima — is threatened with extinction. Fisheries ecologist João Campos-Silva works closely with local associations and fishing leaders to save the arapaima and, with it, the livelihoods, food supply and culture of the indigenous communities who depend on the Amazon’s rivers for survival.Grégoire Courtine — France ( 2 )Throughout human history, a serious spine injury has meant perma-nent loss of the ability to walk. Now, in an advance that would have seemed miraculous until very recently, a French medical scientist based in Switzerland is helping paralysed patients to walk again.Brian Gitta — Uganda Each year around 220 million people worldwide contract malaria and almost half a million — mostly children —die from it. If Ugandan IT specialist Brian Gitta succeeds in delivering his new technology, those numbers will fall. The key to successfully treating malaria is fast diagnosis. Gitta and his team have developed a portable elec-tronic device that gives a reliable reading in less than two minutes, without drawing blood.Krithi Karanth — India ( 3 )As world population surges towards eight billion, conflicts bet ween people and the planet’s dwindling wildlife over food, resources and space for living are multiplying. Conservationist Krithi Karanth is proving that solutions to this problem exist. She has, for example, set up a toll-free number which half a million people living in 600 vil-lages in India can call to get help filing for compensation for losses suffered as a result of human-wildlife conflict.Miranda Wang — Canada ( 4 )Ever y year the world churns out 340 million tonnes of plastic, much of which ends up choking landfills, rivers and oceans, polluting the atmosphere, soil and water. Chinese-Canadian tech entrepre-neur Miranda Wang has come up with a better idea for what to do with the world’s largest waste headache — turn it into wealth using unique chemical recycling technology developed by her company BioCellection.OceansThe ocean constitutes more than 70% of the planet’s surface. These complex, fragile and endangered biotopes are some of the most imperfectly understood environments, yet of vital importance to life. Rolex lends its support to multiple initia-tives and research that will advance our understanding of the oceans and enable more effective solutions to protect them.Sylvia Earle’s Mission Blue — Hope Spots ( 5 )Marine biologist Sylvia Earle is a pioneer of underwater explora-tion and a committed advocate of ocean conser vation. She became a Rolex Testimonee in 1982. In 2010 she initiated Mission Blue to create Hope Spots — protected areas that are vital to the survival of numerous communities. The number of these Hope Spots has increased from 50 in 2014 to 112, thanks in particular to support from Rolex. Mission Blue has set itself the ambitious goal to protect 30% of the world’s oceans by 2030. Currently, this figure is just 8% .Our World-Underwater Scholarship Society Since 1974 Rolex has partnered the Our World Underwater Schol-arship Society, which works with the scientific community to make advances in ocean conservation. Rolex awards scholarships to young people who are considering a career in the under water world.

Page 37

8576FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 37Under the Pole ( 6 )Since the first Deepsea Under the Pole in 2010, Rolex has supported expeditions that push the boundaries of underwater exploration. This pioneering expedition under the ice cap near the geographic North Pole gathered important scientific information about the sub-merged side of the Arctic and helped alert the world to the threat of global warming. A new expedition, Under the Pole III, set out in 2017 and will continue until 2021. It will again explore marine eco-systems, including by gathering samples of deep-water corals for scientific study.Deepsea ChallengerMore than 50 years after the Trieste’s famed dive to the bot tom of the Mariana Trench, film-maker and Rolex Testimonee James Cameron made a solo dive to the deepest point of the world’s oceans in the Deepsea Challenger submersible. Cameron’s expedition would provide important new knowledge for ocean preservation. An exper-imental Deepsea Challenge watch was attached to the submersi-ble’s hydraulic manipulator arm. Despite the crushing 12 tonnes of pressure on the crystal at 12,000 metres below the surface of the Pacific Ocean, the watch emerged in perfect working order.National Geographic SocietySince 1954 Rolex has been par tner to the National Geographic Society whose contributions to exploration, science and envi-ronmental preservation are world-renowned. Multiple and far-reaching ties bind the two, most recently the launch of the Perpetual Planet Expeditions. Through the insights of science and by placing cutting-edge technology in some of the most remote and least-observed regions of the globe, the expeditions study and document the effects of climate change on Earth’s most vital environments: mountains, rain-forests and the oceans. National Geographic et Rolex Perpetual Planet Expedition ( 7 )This expedition was launched in 2019 to study the ef fects of climate change on the Hindu Kush Himalaya glaciers. Over a billion people depend on the glaciers for water. Here, climate scientist Mariusz Potocki (University of Maine) is seen taking a core sample of ice on Everest’s South Col in Nepal.Explorer TestimoneesSince the early 1980s, numerous mountaineers, divers and scientists have teamed up with Rolex. Some have become Testimonees for the brand. As well as breaking records and testing their physical endurance, many have advanced scien-tiﬁc knowledge and forced us to open our eyes to the fra-gility of the natural world. These explorers and adventurers include the conservationist George Schaller, who has helped establish more than 20 wildlife reserves around the world; the paleoanthropologist Richard Leakey, renowned for his fossil ﬁnds related to human evolution and his campaigning for responsible environmental management in East Africa; as well as mountaineers Ed Viesturs, who has scaled all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks without supplemental oxygen, and Junko Tabei, the ﬁrst woman to reach the sum-mit of Everest, in 1975, whose post-graduate thesis quanti-ﬁed the impact of human waste on the mountain.Alain Hubert ( 8 )Belgian polar explorer and mountaineer Alain Hubert set up the Inter-national Polar Foundation (IPF ) in 2002 to support polar science as a key to understanding climate change. The IPF has raised funds to build a new international research station in Antarctica that oper-ates on renewable energies.

Page 38

Page 39

© Van Cleef & Arpels>The rules have changed; extravagance and inventiveness are no longer considered incompatible with jewellery’s most reﬁned, rigorously observed techniques, honed through years of practice. Freed from classicism’s corset, serious is no longer the name of the game: jewellery just wants to have fun. Behind the scenes, inside the atelier, goldsmiths and gem-setters continue to bring their expertise to bear in ways that instil an unexpected frivolity into creations that are a delight to behold. This is a new awaken-ing for jewellery, including the most storied brands.Spring ﬂowers bloom light and airy at Van Cleef & Arpels with the aptly named Frivole collection. Clusters of petals in polished gold or set with diamonds form wonderful three-dimensional compositions. A similarly graceful ﬂoral inspiration is seen at Piaget, whose Treasures collection transforms marquise-cut diamonds into delicate foliage, with pops of colour from rubies, sapphires or a dazzling emerald complete with its very own “garden” — the name given to the natural inclusions that are the calling card of this precious stone.This lighter mood gives wings to jewellers’ creativity as they put new spins on objects, revisit familiar tropes or reinvent motifs and symbols. The Happy Spirit collection from Chopard takes a lighthearted view by surrounding its carefree ﬂoating diamond with concentric gold circles, like so many symbols of purity and perfection. And symbols are something jewellers adore. Talisman or charm, Qeelin’s Wulu rings borrow the curved shape of a Wu Lou gourd or calabash, an auspicious symbol, referred to as the “giver of life” in traditional Chinese culture. Insets of jade, red agate, onyx or mother-of-pearl come alive on the hand.Jewelled Jewelled delightsdelights--o------- Marie de Pimodan-BugnonJewellery takes a walk on the light side with precious pieces of fun that play with symbols and take liberties with familiar motifs. Bouquets of flowers nestle against the skin, threads of gold are woven with pearls and coloured gems while diamonds dance… in absolute freedom.PIAGET TREASURES. A HYMN TO THE JEWELS BESTOWED ON US BY NATURE, PIAGET'S TREASURES COLLECTION IS AN INVITATION TO BECOME LOST IN THE "GARDEN" OF THIS STUNNING EMERALD, MADE ALL THE MORE SPLENDID BY A WHITE GOLD MOUNT SET WITH MARQUISE-CUT DIAMONDS.VAN CLEEF & ARPELS FRIVOLE COLLECTION.THE FRIVOLE COLLECTION BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS IS A BOUQUET OF LIGHT AGAINST THE SKIN. GOLD FLOWERS MAKE UP THESE POETIC JEWELLERY PIECES, GORGED WITH SUN.All jewels are intoxicating. —Paul Éluard ( 1895 — 1952 ) JEWELLERY WATCH YOUR TIME 39

Page 40

Symbols can take other forms too, such as the style signa-tures we instantly equate with a brand. Chanel takes lib-erties with the famous tweed of its braid-trimmed suits to give life to a collection of forty-ﬁve High Jewellery pieces that interpret the softness and texture of this iconic fabric. Special techniques were used to create articulations and intertwine gold with diamonds, pearls and sapphires that reproduce tweed’s ﬂecked surface in spectacular pieces, each unique. At Louis Vuitton, the brand’s signature capital L and capital V are the starting point for a boldly graphic col-lection of jewellery. The two initials are stacked, overlapped or locked together to create pieces with a distinct archi-tectural quality that are also gender-ﬂuid. Neither entirely masculine nor manifestly feminine, they bend the rules of classical jewellery design. Magniﬁcent! ˇCHANEL TWEED CORDAGE. CHANEL WRITES A NEW CHAPTER IN THE HISTORY OF TWEED WITH A COLLECTION OF 45 HIGH JEWELLERY PIECES, INSPIRED BY MADEMOISELLE'S FAVOURITE FABRIC. SHOWN HERE, A TWEED CORDAGE PENDANT IN YELLOW GOLD, WHITE GOLD, DIAMONDS AND PEARLS.LOUIS VUITTON LV VOLT.THE LV VOLT JEWELLERY COLLECTION REVOLVES AROUND THE BRAND’S CAPITAL L AND V MONOGRAM. A METAPHOR FOR MOVEMENT AND SPEED, THE QUINTESSENTIAL INITIALS COMBINE INTO BOLD ARCHITECTURAL COMPOSITIONS.CARTIER [SUR]NATUREL.NATURE LAYS A CREATIVE PATH FOR THIS COLLECTION THAT TRAVELS FROM FIGURATIVE TO ABSTRACT. WATER, FLORA AND FAUNA ENTER A SUPERNATURAL REALM, MADE VISIBLE BY THE NATURAL WORLD’S MOST BEAUTIFUL, MOST MYSTERIOUS ELEMENTS: GEMSTONES.QEELIN WULU.THE FIRST COLLECTION FROM QEELIN, WULU IS BRIMMING WITH POSITIVE ENERGY. THIS TALISMAN BRINGS THE PROMISE OF GOOD FORTUNE TO THOSE WHO WEAR IT. ITS CURVES ARE THOSE OF A WU LOU CALABASH; A SYMBOL OF LONGEVITY AND PROSPERITY IN CHINESE CULTURE.CHOPARD HAPPY SPIRIT.LIKE A GOOD LUCK CHARM, THE HAPPY SPIRIT RING FROM CHOPARD RETURNS IN A STUN-NINGLY SIMPLE DESIGN. CONCEN-TRIC CIRCLES IN ROSE GOLD AND WHITE GOLD FRAME THE UNPRE-DICTABLE MOVEMENTS OF A FREE-FLOATING DIAMOND.HERMÈS KELLY.SINCE THE CREATION OF THE KELLY BAG IN THE 1930S, THE TOURET CLASP HAS BECOME AN EMBLEMATIC SIGNATURE OF THE MAISON. THIS KELLY BRACELET IN ALLIGATOR AND PINK GOLD ADORNED WITH 559 BLACK SPINELS OF 6.65 CARATS OFFERS A MAGNIFICENT INTERPRETATION OF IT.BVLGARI SERPENT MISTERIOSI INTRECCIATI.INSPIRED BY PIECES FROM THE BVLGARI ARCHIVES, THIS TIMEPIECE FEATURES A DESIGN THAT COMBINES SERPENTI WITH BEADS TO CREATE A STRIKING EFFECT. THIS PIECE OF HIGH-JEWELLERY IS A SECRET WATCH IN 18KT ROSE GOLD WITH INTERWEAVING BRACELET SET WITH 357 SAPPHIRE BEADS AND ROUND BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS.40 WATCH YOUR TIME JEWELLERY

Page 41

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 41Every time a new watch launches, and more so an entire collection, its makers hold their breath. No-one can know for certain whether the years spent developing the movement and designing the exterior will pay off. No such worries with the Slim d’Hermès, a watch that captures the Parisian ﬁrm’s special brand of quirky elegance without neglecting the technical rigour one expects from a storied name in luxury. But this is only the visible part — behind the Slim’s coolly elegant design are endless hours of creativity. “We set out to design a man’s watch around what are generally considered the more feminine tropes of elegance and slimness,” says Philippe Delhotal, artistic director at Hermès Horlogerie. “Our starting point was an extra-thin movement. We approached the design in typical Hermès fashion, which is classicism with an irreverent touch. The custom dial font by Philippe Apeloig is a good example of this. It’s a lively font that gives a pleasing rhythm to time. We hadn’t launched a new mechanical watch in a while, so you can imagine how important this introduction was.”It didn’t take long for the Slim to ﬁnd its place within the brand’s catalogue, proving itself to be the ideal com-plement to the Arceau, Cape Cod and Dressage col-lections. Fitted with a quartz movement for the 32mm and 25mm models, for the 39.5mm version Hermès chose a mechanical automatic movement: the propri-etary H1950 calibre. Coming from movement-makers Vaucher Manufacture (Hermès owns a share in the company), this is a high-quality calibre whose integrated micro-rotor saves millimetres to achieve the requisite thinness — in this instance, 2.6mm high. Like its sta-blemates, the H1950 is decorated with a “sprinkling of Hs” pattern while the bridges, in keeping with tradition, are hand-bevelled, a detail that can be admired through the sapphire display back. Indications of hours, minutes and seconds capture the essence of time.From a single watch to a collectionAnother advantage of the H1950 is that it was designed from the outset as a “workhorse” — industry jargon for a base movement that can combine with separate modules to propose additional functions. Hermès lost no time in putting this possibility to work with the unveiling of a Slim Perpetual Calendar, laying the foundations for a full-ﬂedged collection. Two years later, in 2017, the Slim L’Heure Impatiente burst onto the scene with a novel “reminder” complication; in fact, a 60-minute count-down that symbolises the excitement leading up to a special event or an important rendezvous. Completing the line-up in 2018 was the Slim GMT. It shows the date on a subdial at 6 o’clock, with a separate subdial for the second time zone. Conﬁrmation that Hermès likes to do things differently, the numerals for the second time zone are scattered rather than in an orderly circle. Nor should we forget the numerous versions that showcase the métiers d’art; a speciality that Hermès has put to use to create sumptuous dials using techniques such as wood marquetry, miniature painting on porcelain or weaving with gold threads.For 2020 the brand has decided to give a new lease on life to the Slim Perpetual Calendar, with versions in titanium and gold or titanium and platinum. The movement is the same H1950 with an additional module by Agenhor, a movement specialist and longstanding partner to Hermès. Once again, thinness and elegance are de rigueur with a calibre whose total height does not exceed 4 millimetres. Dial layout is identical to that of the original, starting with the second time zone indication in a subdial at 6 o’clock. A moon in mother-of-pearl travels across an aventurine sky at 3 o’clock, opposite the months disk with a leap-year indication in its centre. A date subdial completes the picture. The result is elegantly sober but certainly not staid. For Philippe Delhotal, the Slim is “a beautiful story. I’ve devoted a lot of time to it and the result completes Hermès’ watch collections with great elegance.” Thanks to Hermès, the serious business of watchmaking has become a little less serious. Christophe RouletSLIM D’HERMÈS GMT. THE SLIM GMT CONTAINS THE H1950 EXTRA-THIN (2.6MM HIGH) MOVEMENT, COMBINED WITH A 1.4MM-HIGH GMT MODULE BY AGENHOR. AT TH E 6 O’CLOCK POSITION A SUBDIA L IN TH E SAME CO LOUR AS THE MAIN DIAL SH OWS THE DAT E . ABOVE IT, AT 11 O’CLOC K , A SPRI N KLI NG OF NU M ERAL S ON TH E SILVE R-COLOURE D GMT SUB D I A L BRIN G S TYPICA L HER M È S OR I G I N ALITY, AS DO ES THE PURPOSE-DESIGNED FONT, A DISTINGUISHING FEATURE OF THE SLIM LINE.SLIM D’HERMÈS PERPETUAL CALENDAR. THE SLIM D’HERMÈS LINE WELCOMES A NEW ITERATION IN TITANIUM: A PERPETUAL CALENDAR THAT IS DECEPTIVELY SIMPLE IN APPEARANCE. WHILE THE DATE, MONTH, DUAL-TIME AND LEAP-YEAR INDICATIONS ARE DISPLAYED ON COUNTERS, A MOTHER-OF-PEARL MOON PHASE GR ACES AN AVE NTU RINE SKY AT 3 O’C LO CK. THE NUMER A LS BORROW TH E SL I M’S CHARACTERISTIC AIRY FONT.Eternal visionIntroduced in 2015, the Slim d’Hermès was soon lending its innate elegance to an entire collection. The perpetual calendar version returns this year in a titanium case.

Page 42

Page 43

Illustrator Marcel Van Luit @ADB Agency Last year Montblanc hit not one but two sweet spots by channelling the seemingly unstoppable vintage trend and the equally enduring desire to get closer to nature. The brand’s “Reconnect” campaign centred on the envi-ronment with images of pristine lakes and snow-capped mountain ridges, inviting the viewer to retune mind and body to a more natural way of life. And what better way to beat a trail through ﬁrs and pines than with a good old tool watch; the kind designed to provide a practical, not to say vital, function as embodied by the 1858 — not so much a watch as a breath of mountain air and a ﬁrst step on the road to a deeper connection with nature.Those who aspire to the good life may ﬁnd their hopes dashed as they set out to explore our planet’s virgin splendours. Everest is perhaps the single most telling illustration. It is the roof of the world, the universal symbol of untouched nature, accessible only to those with sufﬁcient physical and mental strength. Or not. To date, no fewer than 10,000 individuals have reached its summit since it was ﬁrst conquered in 1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary (wearing a Rolex) and Tenzing Norgay. Last year alone, close to 900 climbers scaled its heights, which is more than in any previous year. Since the start of commercial expeditions in the early 1990s, the number of people trampling Everest’s slopes has increased exponentially, to the point where this once idyllic landscape is now littered with waste. Discarded tents, jettisoned climbing gear, empty oxygen cylinders, human excre-ment… Everest has become a high-altitude rubbish dump. The problem has reached such proportions that clean-up expeditions have been organ-ised to bring down tens of tonnes of accumulated waste — and even this hasn’t been enough to restore the mountain to its original state.Watchmakers to the rescue It’s ironic that brands have spent the past decades developing watches capable of surviving the most inhospitable environments and ill treatment without losing one second of their precision or reliability, only to realise that the idyllic, off-the-beaten-track locations they were designed to serve bring more disillusion and dismay than they do pleasure and satisfaction. It’s easy to understand why. Climate skeptic or climate campaigner, whatever your beliefs, a very real danger weighs on the planet and its effects are visible wherever we go and no matter where we live. Air pollution, oceans of plastic, soil contamination, greenhouse gases, loss of biodiversity, extinc-tion of species… the list is long and doesn’t make for happy reading. The planet is in intensive care with no hope of recovery. All we can do is limit the inevitable scarring.Mother Mother NatureNature--o------- Christophe RouletPANERAI SUBMERSIBLE ECOPANGAEA™ TOURBILLON GMT - 50 MM EDITION MIKE HORN.THIS LIMITED EDITION OF FIVE PIECES IS IN HONOUR OF EXPLORER, ENVIRONMENTALIST AND BRAND AMBASSADOR MIKE HORN. FITTINGLY, THE NEW ECOPANGAEA™ HIGH-TECH STEEL FOR THE CASE USES METAL THAT WAS REPURPOSED FROM THE PROPELLER SHAFT OF HORN'S SAILING SHIP. THE METAL WAS PURIFIED AND PERFECTED PRIOR TO BEING SHAPED INTO THE 50MM CASE OF THIS NEW SUBMERSIBLE, WHICH COMES EQUIPPED WITH A UNIDIRECTIONAL ROTATING BEZEL PLUS A SOFT IRON RING THAT SHIELDS THE MOVEMENT FROM MAGNETIC FIELDS. THIS GMT WATCH INCORPORATES PANERAI'S 30-SECOND TOURBILLON. POWER IS PROVIDED BY CALIBRE P.2005/T, A SKELETONISED TITANIUM MOVEMENT WHOSE THREE BARRELS DELIVER SIX DAYS OF POWER RESERVE.While environmental stewardship isn’t new to watch brands, many are stepping up initiatives in aid of our ailing planet.Nature does not hurry, yet everything is accomplished. —Lao Tzu ( c. 6 BC )>ENVIRONMENT WATCH YOUR TIME 43

Page 44

44 WATCH YOUR TIMEIIIIIIIIIIWatch brands woke up to the fact that Earth is in a bad way some time ago, and many have joined Rolex (see our special report on the brand’s Perpetual Planet campaign), by putting environmental preser-vation and sustainable development on their list of corporate social responsibilities. Ocean conservation features prominently among these initiatives, particu-larly among brands reputed for their dive watches. This is understandable given that dive watches are widely considered as the ultimate sports watch and, more importantly perhaps, the only ones that must comply with ISO speciﬁcations, which implies a level of technical competency not every manufacturer has. Heightened awareness of the perils facing our oceans has produced a number of landmark part-nerships. Jaeger-LeCoultre, for example, was a long-term partner to UNESCO’s World Heritage Marine Programme in support of marine site preservation. IWC supports Cousteau Divers, an initiative led by Pierre-Yves Cousteau, youngest son of Jacques Cousteau who is carrying on his father’s mission to protect the oceans.Blancpain on every frontAny mention of ocean conservation must include Breitling. The brand is a supporter of Ocean Conservancy, a non-governmental organisation that organises large-scale clean-ups of the world’s beaches. It has also teamed up with sustainable clothing company Outerknown for a NATO strap in Econyl, a yarn whose main component comes from recycled ﬁshing nets. Carl F. Bucherer gives its backing to Manta Trust, a charity working to ensure the survival of endangered manta rays. When it comes to nursing the oceans back to health, some of the most active brands belong to Swatch Group. One, Omega, supports Yann Arthus-Bertrand and his GoodPlanet Foundation in their efforts to raise awareness of ecology and come to the aid of vulnerable communities. Stablemate Breguet gets behind Race for Water, a foundation that develops solutions to the problem of plastic waste in our seas and oceans. Its revolutionary boat, powered only by renewable energies, is continuing its ﬁve-year, round-the-world odyssey, making stopovers at islands and coastal towns to engage local populations in practical solutions to curb plastic pollution.AI · LOUIS VUITTON ES CALE SP IN TIME METEO RITE.A PATENTED DESI GN AND PROD UC ED IN-HOUSE, THE ESCALE SPIN TIME TAKES ITS NAME FROM THE CUBES THAT DISPLAY THE HOURS AS THEY ROTATE. THE DIAL ON THIS RENDITION IS CUT FROM THE GIBEON METEORITE THAT FELL TO EARTH IN NAMIBIA. THIS IS THE FIRST LOUIS VUITTON WATCH TO INCORPORATE THIS RARE AND MYSTERIOUS STONE.II · CHOPARD ALPINE EAGLE. IN 1980 THE NOW CO-PRESIDENT OF CHOPARD, KARL-FRIEDRICH SCHEUFELE, IMAGINED THE ST. MORITZ WATCH. WORKING FROM AN IDEA PUT FORWARD BY HIS SON 40 YEARS LATER, HE CAME UP WITH THE ALPINE EAGLE, A SPORT-LUXE WATCH THAT EXPLORES THE CONTEMPORARY APPEAL OF THE 1980S MODEL. CHOPARD HAS RETAINED THE AS SER TIV E OU TLI NE OF THE ORI GINA L , NOW CUT FROM LUCENT STEEL A223.III · SEIKO ASTRON GPS SOLAR 5X53 DUAL-TIME SPORT TITANIUM. SINC E 2012 SEIKO ASTRO N HAS LED THE WORLD IN GPS SOLAR TECHNOLOGY. BY CONNECTING TO THE GPS NETWORK, EVERY ASTRON WATCH ADJUSTS AT THE TOUCH OF A BUTTON TO THE LOCAL TIME ZONE, TAKING ITS ENERGY FROM LI GH T ALONE. THE 5X53 COLLEC-TI ON EX PAND S WI TH A NEW SERI ES OF WATCH ES WITH TITANIUM CASES AND BRACELETS.IIII · TAG HEUER AUTAVIA BRONZE. TAG HEUER IS OF FER ING A BRONZE RENDI TIO N OF ITS AU TAVI A , A COLLECTION OF VER SAT ILE , ROBUS T AN D RE LI-ABLE TIMEPIECES. POWERED BY CALIBRE 5, A COSC-CERTIFIED CHRONOMETER-GRADE MOVE-MENT WITH AUTOMATIC WINDING, ITS MATCHES A BROWN DIAL WITH A 42MM CASE IN NOBLE BR ONZE, TOP PED WIT H A BIDIR EC TIO NAL ROTAT-ING BEZEL IN BLACK CERAMIC.ULYSSE NARDIN BLAST. ULYSSE NARDIN IS A BRAND FOR ADVENTURERS WHO ARE LURED BY THE PLANET’S EXTREMES, FROM THE IMPOSING BLUE GLACIERS AT THE POLES TO THE VOLCANIC ISLANDS OF THE PACIFIC. THANKS TO ULYSSE NARDIN, THEY CAN TAKE WITH THEM A WATCH WITH A POWERFUL ARCHITECTURE. BLAST IS “A MUS-CULAR AND ROBUST OPENWORKED MODEL WITH A TIGHT, EDGY BLUEPRINT, OMNI-PRESENT X-FACTOR AND STEALTH DESIGN.” TO EMBODY THIS FORCE, THE BRAND HAS TEAMED UP WITH CARSTEN PETER, NATURE PHOTOGRAPHER AND STORYTELLER OF THE EXTREME. A CLIMBER, PARAGLIDER, CAVER, DIVER AND CANYONER, HE LIVES LIFE AS AN ODYSSEY. ULYSSE NARDIN IS WITH HIM ALL THE WAY.Xtreme watchmakingUlysse Nardin has modelled its latest timepiece, Blast, on the acerated lines of a stealth aircraft. Tessellated horns, each tri-angle having a different ﬁnish, inform this powerful but also sleek design. “Blast plays off the transparency of its new auto-matic silicium tourbillon nested in a bold, X-shaped cage, which beats inside at a frequency of 2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour),” says the brand. “Light penetrates the openworked body of the watch like a laser.” Ulysse Nardin’s emblematic codes are very much in evidence, not least the rectangular frame, the three-horned signature ﬁxing the strap, the coloured bezel and the verticality of the movement, with the barrel at 12 o’clock mir-roring the ﬂying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Like the other watches in the Skeleton collection, Blast wears a prominent X, embed-ded in the movement frame.This latest timepiece is powered by the new UN-172 movement which delivers three days of power reserve. Eighteen months in the making from concept to creation, it is the ﬁrst automatic tourbillon in the collection. Winding is by a platinum micro-ro-tor that is visible from the front at 12 o’clock. Each detail has been carefully elaborated, down to the patented three-blade self-deploying buckle that opens with a click. Blast comes as four distinct 45mm models with a white or black ceramic case and titanium bezel, in gold, or with a titanium case and bezel. It is, in the brand’s words, “an avatar of its time, a potent force of nature, a technological wonder made with rock-hard, mas-culine lines that has ignited a ﬂame.” C.R.

Page 45

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 45What if Van Cleef & Arpels were just one long love story? Of the everlasting kind. Could it even be other-wise for a brand that originated in 1906 in Paris, the City of Love, after Cupid ﬁred his arrows and Estelle Arpels and Alfred Van Cleef tied the knot. Their union, symbolised in business by an ampersand, would inspire magniﬁcent creations, each with a story to tell. For this is where the magic of Van Cleef & Arpels lies, in this gift for weaving a narrative that no heart can resist. The Parisian jeweller has sealed the romance of countless legendary couples, including the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, or Grace Kelly and Prince Rainier of Monaco. By transposing these stories to the dial of its watches, it initiated a truly unique approach to the measuring of time that brings the imagination into play.The scenario Van Cleef & Arpels crafted for its Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux watch is already a classic. The story begins as night falls on the rooftops of Paris. While the rest of the city slumbers, two lovers lie awake, wishing they could be together. They set off through streets bathed in lamplights’ glow, past silent gardens and crystalline foun-tains. Hearts pounding, they make their way along the Seine to the bridge that will bring them together. She walks almost on tiptoe, sheltered by her umbrella. He strides towards her, clutching a rose behind his back as a token of his love. When midnight strikes, they meet at last to share a moonlight kiss. That was in 2010 for the ﬁrst iter-ation of the Pont des Amoureux watch (the name trans-lates as “lovers’ bridge”). In less time than it takes to fall in love, it came to symbolise the sheer charm of a Van Cleef & Arpels watch. Brought to life by a double retro-grade movement, Mademoiselle advances slowly to mark the hours while Monsieur crosses his half of the bridge in 60 minutes. They meet in a tender embrace once at midday and again at midnight.“Hands of gold”Such an enthusiastic reception convinced Van Cleef & Arpels to make Pont des Amoureux a collection in its own right. Introduced last year, it embraces a variety of atmospheres and moods. More importantly, perhaps, the brand has added a new module which, at the press of a pusher in the caseband, enables our lovers to lean in for a kiss whenever they wish. While the original Pont des Amoureux watch conﬁned the lovebirds to a noctur-nal rendezvous, the ﬁrst execution in the new collection allows them to enjoy their romance in broad daylight on that same bridge, sculpted from gold: the work of the master craftsmen and women — dubbed the “Mains d’Or” by the brand — whose talent and experience bring these scenes to dazzling life.As Van Cleef & Arpels explains, “ the grisaille enamel tech-nique, developed in France from the sixteenth century, is showcased in different ways on the two dials. On the original watch, is it used in its traditional version with white enamel powder or blanc de Limoges placed on a dark background. On the dial of the daytime version, the Maison has used coloured grisaille enamel for the ﬁrst time: the craftsmen in the workshops applied pink and blue enamels against a white background to evoke the gentle quality of daylight.” The miniature painting on each dial takes between 30 and 40 hours to complete, and must be ﬁred up to a dozen times to achieve the desired effect. The same enamelling technique is used on the dials of the four jewellery watches that complete the collection, in shades of pink and lilac for spring, greens and yellows for summer, russet tones for autumn, then blues and white for winter. This seasonal theme extends onto the bracelet in a carpet of diamonds and coloured gemstones. They are the perfect sequel to the original love story, bringing Mademoiselle and Monsieur together, year after year. Christophe RouletAUTOMATIC RETROGRADE MOVEMENT. T WO LOVERS EM B R AC E IN THE MIDD LE OF A PARISIAN BRIDGE THANKS TO A MECHANICAL AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT, BASED ON THE JA EG ER-LECO ULT RE 846 CAL IBRE . A RE TRO GRAD E MO DUL E , DE VELOP ED BY AGENHOR IN GENEVA FOR VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, MEANS THE COUPLE CAN NOW REPEAT THEIR KISS OVER AND OVER, ON DEMAND. THE MOVEMENT HAS A POWER RESERVE OF 36 HOURS.VAN CLEEF & ARPELS LADY ARPELS PONT DES AMOUREUX NIGHT. THE PONT DES AMOUREUX WATCH PLAYS OUT ITS ROMANTIC SCENE AS NIGHT FALLS ON PARIS. THE PRINCIPLE IS UNCHANGED: MADEMOISELLE COUNTS THE HOURS AS SH E ADVA NCES TOWARDS THEIR REN DEZ VO US WHI LE MONSIEUR CROSS ES HIS HA LF OF THE BRIDGE IN 60 MINUTE S. AT MI DDAY AND MIDNIGHT THEI R LI PS LOCK IN A TENDER EMBRACE. THANKS TO THE NEW ON-DEMAND MODULE, THEY CAN REPEAT THEIR KISS A THOUSAND TIMES OVER.VAN CLEEF & ARPELS LADY ARPELS PONT DES AMOUREUX DAY. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS INTRODUCES AN ORIGINAL INTERPRETATION OF ITS PONT DES AMOUREUX DAY TO ITS REGULAR COLLECTION. THIS IS THE FIRST TIME THE BRAND HAS WORKED WITH COLOURED GRISAILLE ENAMEL FOR THE DIAL. THE CRAFTSMEN AP PLY PAS TEL PIN K AND BLUE ENAM ELS ON A WH ITE BACKGROUN D TO EVOKE TH E GE NTL E QUAL ITY OF DAYL IGH T. EACH MINI ATUR E- PAIN TED DIA L TAK ES BETWEEN 30 AND 40 HOURS TO COMPLETE, AND MUST BE FIRED UP TO A DOZEN TIMES.All you need is loveSince its debut in 2010, the Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux has become a signature of the Parisian firm’s watchmaking prowess, as well as a collection in its own right with versions for day, night and each of the four seasons, not forgetting a mechanical module for kisses on demand.

Page 46

VIIVIVI IIIIIIIII46 WATCH YOUR TIME ENVIRONMENTI · CHANEL BOY·FRIEND. THE RADI CA LLY ELEGA NT BOY·-FR I END WATCH BLU RS THE BOUNDARIE S BE T WEE N MA S-CU LINE AN D FEM ININ E . TH E MO DEL SH OW N HE RE IS TH E SMA LL SIZE IN STEEL WITH AN OPALIN E GU ILLOC HÉ DI AL AND AN INTERCHANGEABLE BLACK CALFSKIN STRAP WITH A QUILTED PATTERN.II · ZENITH DEFY 21 LAND ROVER EDITION. THIS EDITION IS A RU GGED AND STEALTHY REI NTE RPR E TAT I ON OF THE 21S T-CENT URY EL PRIM ERO HIGH -FR EQ UEN CY CHRON-OGRAPH, EMBODYING THE RESILIENT SPIRIT OF THE NEW LAND ROVER DEFENDER THAT COMBINES THE ULTIMATE IN RUGGE DNESS AND COMFORT. A 250- P IECE LIMITED EDITION, IT GIVES THE 1/100TH OF A SECOND CHRONOGRAPH A COMPLETELY NEW RAW AND MINI-MALISTIC LOOK.III · HERMÈS ARCEAU SKELETON. THE ARC E AU FIRST SAW DAYLIGHT OVER 40 YEARS AGO AND ITS DESIGN - REC-OGNISABLE BY THE ASYMMETRICAL STIRRUP-SHAPED LUGS AND SLOPING FONT THAT SUGGESTS A GALLOP-ING HO RSE - IS AS FRES H AS EVE R . HERE, THE ROU NDE D BEZEL ATOP THE STEEL CASE ALLOWS A GENEROUS VIEW OF THE SKELETONISED MOVEMENT THROUGH A SMOKED SAPPHIRE DIAL.IIII · TANK DE CARTIER ASYMÉTRIQUE. CART IER DE LIG HTS IN REVISITING ITS VAST LEGACY OF CREATIVE WATCH DESIGNS TO REFLECT THE CURRENT MOOD. THIS YEAR SEES THE TURN OF THE TANK ASYMÉTRIQUE, INTRODUCED IN 1936. EVERYTHING ON THE DIAL HAS BEEN TILTED 30 DEGREES TO THE RIGHT, CREATING A «TWISTED» AESTHETIC THAT IMPLIED A COMPLETE RETHINK OF THE STRAP.V· HUBLOT BIG BANG MP -11 RED MAGIC. IN 2018 HUB LOT DE V ELOP ED THE FIRS T EVER BR IGH T-CO LOURED HI GH-TECH CER A M IC, HAV I NG SUC C EE DED IN OBTA ININ G TH E RIGHT COMBINATION OF TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURE TO KEEP THE RED PIGMENTS INTACT. THE BIG BANG MP-11 TAK ES ADVANTAG E OF THI S EXCLUSIVE CER A M IC IN RED, THE COLOUR OF PASSION, POWER AND GLORY.VI · VAN CLEEF & ARPELS CHARMS EXTRAORDINAIRE AMOUR - 38MM. VAN CLE EF & ARP ELS WATCHES EX PLORE TH EME S OF FLOWERS AND AN IMALS TO CELE BRAT E TH E WOND ERS OF NATU RE. THE DIAL OF TH IS MODE L IN PINK GOLD IS DECORATED WITH WALLFLOWERS, CYCLAMENS AND FORGET-ME-NOTS, EXPRESSING A LOVE STORY MADE TO LAST IN THE LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS.VII · GÉRALD GENTA ARENA BI-RETRO ANTHRACITE. TH I S TRIB UTE TO THE GENIUS OF WATCH DESIG NER GÉR A LD GE NTA REV IVES ON E OF THE HAL LMAR KS OF HIS BR AND: THE IMPRESSIVE CONTOURS OF THE ROUND ARENA CASE. JUMPING HOURS ARE DISPLAYED IN AN APER-TURE WHILE RETROGRADE MINUTES AND THE DATE ARE SHOWN ON TWO SECTORS AGAINST A DARK GREY ANTHRACITE DIAL.Of all the Swatch Group brands, Blancpain is undoubtedly the most committed to ocean preservation. Its actions and partnerships in this ﬁeld are grouped together under the name Blancpain Ocean Commitment. The brand was an early supporter of the Pristine Seas Expeditions, led by National Geographic from 2011 to 2016 to secure protection of some of the globe’s unspoiled ocean areas. Since 2013 it has underwritten Laurent Ballesta’s Gombessa Project, which studies some of the rarest and most elusive marine creatures and underwater phenomena. Blancpain has also been active in supporting the World Ocean Summit, organ-ised by The Economist, World Oceans Day, held annually on June 8 at the United Nations’ headquarters in New York, and the Hans Hass Fifty Fathoms Award for research that expands our understanding of the oceans. In a similar vein, the brand is partner to champion freediver Gianluca Genoni. To date, Blancpain has co-ﬁnanced 19 major scientiﬁc expeditions, and helped double the amount of marine protected area around the world, with over an additional 4,000 square kilometres. It is also behind a number of award-winning documentary ﬁlms, under-water photography exhibitions and other publications.Heirs to a sick planetAlthough the ocean has largely beneﬁted from these pro-environment initia-tives, the marine world isn’t the only biotope to have caught brands’ attention. Since as far back as 1992, the Audemars Piguet Foundation has been contrib-uting to worldwide forest conservation. It draws on scientiﬁc research by the International Union for Conservation of Nature, an organisation with close to a thousand governmental and non-governmental members. Taking a different approach entirely, Chopard is focusing on its supply chain and has introduced a Code of Conduct that covers a range of environmental criteria. Since 2018 the brand has sourced all its gold from veriﬁed ethical sources and is a major buyer of Fairmined gold, a certiﬁcate that encourages responsible artisanal small-scale gold mining and supports mining communities in Latin America. To date, Chopard is the only brand to have put its environmental principles fully into practice and certainly one of the few to engage its customers through shared beliefs rather than concocted communication.It’s a fact: if brands are to capture Millennial spending power, they need to adapt how they do business to their way of thinking, which is very different to that of previous generations. Generation Y buy less than baby boomers or Gen X, and when they do buy, they’re happy to purchase pre-owned as opposed to new. They also expect the brands they choose to have sustainable and ethical business practices, which includes environmental stewardship. Heirs to a sick planet, they are no longer prepared to put up with political immobilism, not to say obstruction. Sustainable production, responsible sourcing and redistribution of wealth are all compatible with watchmak-ing. The more brands understand this, the better. ˇ

Page 47

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 47Seiko has always made it a point of honour to use the traditional skills of watchmaking to send its products into the world equipped to stand the test of time. In the late 1950s, a small group of Seiko’s watchmakers met with management, convinced of this quasi necessity to develop a watch that would set a new standard for craftsmanship and precision. The watch they imagined saw daylight in December 1960 as the Grand Seiko: a name in keeping with this ambition to take watch-making to new heights. From a single timepiece, Grand Seiko went on to become an entire collection and, in 2017, a brand in its own right. The more mathematical-ly-minded will have noted that 2020 is an anniversary year, though perhaps without realising its importance in an industry built on duodecimal calculations, where six and multiples of six are the foundations for the architecture of time. Furthermore, 60 has particular signiﬁcance in Japan where it symbolises rebirth and renewed energy. In a ﬁtting celebration of this anniver-sary, Grand Seiko is presenting a series of timepieces of irreproachable quality whose precision is equalled only by their desirability.Celebrations begin with watches inspired by the 44GS. Introduced in 1967, its design is the quintessence of Grand Seiko style. The Heritage Collection Hi-Beat 36000, a special edition of 1,500 pieces in steel, is driven by Calibre 9S85. Measuring 40mm in diameter, it provides a record level of precision and 55 hours of power reserve. In honour of this anniversary year, the Grand Seiko logo has been applied in gold while the seconds hand boasts a vivid red, the colour of the Japanese ﬂag and a symbol of the rising sun. The second of these anniversary models, this time for women, is limited to just 300 pieces. Set inside a 27.8mm case, the signature Grand Seiko blue dial is circled by diamonds. Inside beats Calibre 9S27, an auto-matic movement that combines slimness with precision. Other commemorative editions are the Heritage Collection Quartz — limited to 2,500 pieces, its exceptional preci-sion of ±5 seconds/year is a purist’s dream — and the Sport Collection Quartz, presented as a limited edition of 2,000 pieces and which features a blue ceramic bezel.Spring Drive in the spotlightGrand Seiko is also honouring its 60th birthday with a 40mm yellow gold watch of which only 100 will be made. Its movement, Calibre 9SA5, has a frequency of 36,000 vibra-tions/hour, courtesy of a new-generation dual-impulse escapement. This advanced technology — inside a res-olutely classical design — ranks among the year’s major innovations. Another special edition is a recreation of the ﬁrst watch to bear the Grand Seiko name. Presented as three versions, in brilliant hard titanium, yellow gold or platinum, it houses Calibre 9S64, an in-house, man-ual-winding movement. The case diameter, at 38mm, is slightly larger than the 35mm of the original. This fasci-nating anniversary collection extends to a further two limited editions, also manually wound, inspired by the legend of Shizukuishi. The dial of the platinum-cased watch is painstakingly engraved by hand. The rendition in pink gold is a showcase for the delicate art achieved by precise machine engraving.Grand Seiko couldn’t let this anniversary go by without reference to its groundbreaking Spring Drive 9R01 movement, in the suitably stunning form of the Spring Drive 8 Days jewelry watch in platinum from the Masterpiece Collection. The chapter ring is embellished with baguette-cut diamonds, while blue sapphires mark each numeral. Presented as a limited edition of just ten, this Masterpiece reveals all the magic of a unique movement whose seconds hand glides smoothly above the precious stones. Lastly, this anniversary year is the opportunity for another major reveal, inside the Professional Diver’s 600M, of the new- generation Spring Drive Calibre 9RA5; an automatic movement whose already outstanding precision and reli-ability have been further improved. Vincent DaveauGRAND SEIKO PROFESSIONAL DIVER’S 600M. GR A ND SEIKO DEB UTS A NE W- G EN -ERATION SPRING DRIVE MOVEMENT THAT IS THINNER , EVEN MORE PRECISE AND WITH AN EXTENDED POWER RESERVE. CALIBRE 9RA5 ELEVATES SPRING DRIVE TECH NOLOGY TO AN UNPR EC EDENT ED LEVEL OF EXC ELLEN CE, MARKI NG A NEW ERA IN THE HISTORY OF GRAND SEIKO. THE FIRST TIMEPIECE TO BE POWERED BY THE MOVEMENT IS A PROFESSIONAL DIVE WATCH THAT IS WATER- RESISTANT TO 600 METRES.GRAND SEIKO MASTER P IEC E CO LLECTIO N SP R ING DRIV E 8 DAY S JE W ELRY WATCH. EVERY GRAND SEIKO WATCH EMBODIES THE HIGHEST LEVEL OF CRAFTSMAN-SH I P TOGE THE R WI TH THE UN IQU ELY JAPANESE BE AUT Y FO R WH ICH THE BR AND IS RENOWNED. IN CELEBRATION OF GRAND SEIKO’S 60th ANNIVERSARY, A NEW CREATION JOINS THE MASTERPIECE COLLECTION. THE DESIGN OF THE SPRING DRIVE JEWEL RY WAT CH IN PL ATINUM TA KES IN SPIR ATION FROM WI N T ER M O R N I NGS IN SHINSHU, WHERE ALL GRAND SEIKO SPRING DRIVE WATCHES ARE MADE.GRAND SEIKO 60TH ANNIVERSARY LIMITED EDITION ELEGANCE COLLECTION CALIBER 9S64. THIS LIMITED EDITION CELEBRATES THE NATURAL BEAUTY OF SHIZUKUISHI, THE HOME OF GRAND SEIKO MECHANICAL WATCHES. CASED IN PLATINUM, ITS DIAL IS ENGRAVED BY HAND. POWERED BY THE MANUAL- WINDING CALIBRE 9S64, IT MARKS A NEW DEPARTURE FOR THE ELEGANCE COLLECTION AN D IS A POWE RFU L SYMBOL OF TH E VI TALI T Y TH AT THE STAR T OF GRAN D SE IKO’S NEW 60-YEAR CYCLE REPRESENTS.Ever since its establishment in 1881, Seiko has never faltered inits efforts to produce watches of the finest quality.60 years of perfectionFOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 47

Page 48

Page 49

Illustrator Marcel Van Luit @ADB Agency OCEANS WATCH YOUR TIME 49Originally developed for professional use, dive watches are increas-ingly in demand as an alternative to a sports watch. These days, pretty much every major brand, and most of their customers, have at least one dive watch in their catalogue or in their collection. In fact, interest in dive watches has reached such proportions they were given their own category at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPGH). But buyer beware: not every watch that is marketed as a dive watch actually qualiﬁes as one.Reliability is a selling point in any watch; for a dive watch, it’s a vital neces-sity. Once a diver has backﬂipped into the water, he or she has to be able to rely on their watch; simply because their life depends on it. One of the biggest risks occurs when divers fail to respect dive times and decompres-sion stops. These must be precisely monitored, hence the importance of having a certiﬁed dive watch to hand, i.e. one that complies with ISO 6425, the international standard for dive watches.Safety firstThe number-one requirement for a dive watch is, understandably, water- resistance. To qualify as a dive watch, the minimum water-resistance is 100 metres. In other words, the watch will withstand pressure of 10 atm (10 bar), which makes it suitable for snorkelling or recreational diving. Anything less than 100 metres and the watch in question should only ever be worn in the shower — never for diving. For professional diving, water-resistance should be at least 200 metres (20 bar) and the watch should be able to resist long periods of immersion. This can be bumped up to 500 metres (50 bar) and, for the most extreme condi-tions, 1,000 metres (that’s 100 bar). This amount of pressure explains why dive watches are generally ﬁtted with a decompression system or a helium escape vale (think of it as a pressure cooker letting off steam).Water-resistance isn’t all; a dive watch must also have a clearly legible dial. This is no small challenge, considering the inky blackness that reigns beneath the waves. The solution is to coat hands and markers with lume to guarantee visibility even in total darkness. A diver also needs to know their watch is running. Most of the time, this service is provided by a seconds hand with a luminous tip. Another obligatory feature is a rotating bezel for calculating dive time, with a scale marked for ﬁve-minute intervals and distinct markings for the ﬁrst 15 minutes. It only turns counter-clockwise so that, if accidentally jolted, it will indicate more time spent underwater (meaning the diver will surface before the end of dive time rather than after). Further requirements are magnetic resistance, shock resistance and resistance to corrosion caused by salt water.The call The call of the deepof the deep--o------- Paloma Recio, director, R&E magazineA dive watch must comply with stringent standards to be a reliable instrument for underwater exploration. But our oceans are also under threat, prompting brands to lend their support to conservation projects.If a man knows not to which port he sails, no wind is favourable. —Seneca the Younger ( c. 4 BC-AD 65 )SEIKO 1975 PROFESSIONAL DIVER’S 600M RE-CREATION.THIS YEAR SEES THE 55TH ANNIVERSARY OF SEIKO’S FIRST DIVE WATCH, A MODEL WITH AN AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT AND 150-METRE WATER-RESISTANCE THAT EARNED ITS STRIPES ON THE JAPANESE ANTARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION FROM 1966 TO 1969. THE JAPANESE BRAND IS MARKING THE OCCASION WITH THREE WATCHES THAT FAITHFULLY REPRODUCE MODELS MADE IN 1965, 1968 AND 1975. THE RE-CREATION OF THE 1975 WATCH HAS A TITANIUM ONE-PIECE CASE AND AN OUTER CASE PROTECTOR IN CERAMIC. THE CASE CONSTRUCTION AND DIAL LAYOUT ARE CARRIED OVER FROM THE 1975 ORIGINAL, AS ARE THE UNIQUE HOUR MARKERS AND CROWN. WATER-RESISTANCE, HOWEVER, HAS BEEN INCREASED TO 1,000 METRES.>

Page 50

50 WATCH YOUR TIME50 WATCH YOUR TIMEIII IIIII IIThe helium valveWhile not a feature of every dive watch, a helium escape valve is another attribute of a professional dive watch. When surfacing from a great depth, divers must make decompression stops. The helium valve prevents the crystal from popping off (and protects the movement against damage) as a result of internal pressure caused by a build-up of helium from the breathing mixture that has penetrated the case through the gaskets.Rolex is the ﬁrst brand to have introduced this type of valve, after saturation divers in the 1960s complained about the crystal shooting off their watch during decompression. The brand consulted with Comex, a French commercial diving company, to develop what became known as the Rolex Comex, now a very rare and highly sought-after watch. In 1967 the brand with the coronet launched its ﬁrst watch to be equipped with a patented helium valve built into the left side of the case. This was the Sea-Dweller, ini-tially water-resistant to 610 metres and, since 1978, to 1,220 metres. It was only much later, in 2008, that the Deepsea arrived on the scene. Designed for diving to underwater trenches, it withstands pressure equivalent to a depth of 3,900 metres.Beyond human limitsHow low can a watch go? In the case of the Rolex Deepsea Special, the answer is 10,916 metres when in 1960 this experimental watch plunged to the bottom of the Mariana Trench, the deepest point on Earth, attached to the outside of the Trieste bathyscaphe with Swiss oceanographer Jacques Piccard and U.S. Navy Lieutenant Don Walsh on board. Many years later, in 2012, ﬁlmmaker and explorer James Cameron decided to honour their exploit and returned to the Mariana Trench inside the Deepsea Challenger. Fitted to the outside of his submersible was the specially made Deepsea Challenge watch, built to resist pressure of 12 tonnes.AI · ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL DEEPSEA. THE ULTRA-RESISTANT ROLEX DEEPSEA IS ENGI-NE ERE D FO R DEEP-S E A EXP LO R ATIO N. WATER-R E-SISTANT TO 3,90 0 ME TRES , IT BUI LDS ON DECA DES OF COLLABORATION WITH PROFESSIONAL DIVERS AN D IS THE ULTI MAT E MA N IFESTATIO N OF RO LEX’S PIONEERING ROLE IN DIVE WATCHES.II · BREGUET MARINE CHRONOGRAPH 5527. IN 1815 LOUIS XVIII OF FRANCE APPOINTED ABRAHAM-LOUIS BREGUET AS HORLOGER DE LA MARINE ROYALE. THE MARINE COLLECTION CONTINUES THIS LEGACY WHILE INTRODUC-ING CONTEMPORARY MATERIALS AND DESIGNS, EXEMPLIFIED BY THIS MARINE CHRONOGRAPH 5527 IN TITANIUM WITH A SLATE-GREY DIAL.III · TAG HEUER AQUARACER GREEN DIAL. INSPIRED BY THE MESMERISING COLOURS OF THE OCEAN, TAG HEUER HAS INTRODUCED NEW AQUARACER WATCHES WI TH A GRE EN DIAL THAT PROVIDE SPORTY FUNCTIONALITY WHATEVER TH E TE RRAIN . LI GHT SKIPS ACRO SS THE SUNR AY FINISH ON THE DIAL OF THIS 43MM MODEL WITH AUTOMATIC WINDING. THE HORIZONTAL LINES SUGGEST THE WOOD PLANKS OF MOORING DOCKS.IIII · BLANCPAIN FIFTY FATHOMS. UPON ITS RELEASE IN 1953, FIFTY FATHOMS, THE FIRST MODERN DIVER’S WATCH, IMMEDIATELY APPEALED TO PROFESSIONAL DIVERS. ITS MAIN ORIGINAL TECHNICAL AND AESTHETIC CHARAC-TERISTICS, REVISITED AND COMPLEMENTED BY A DATE IN THE 2000S, ARE NOW TEAMED WITH A TITANIUM CASE.HUBLOT BIG BANG INTEGRAL. A FUSION OF STEEL, CERAMIC AND RUBBER THAT LAUNC HED AT BASELWOR LD IN 20 05, THE BIG BAN G CE MEN TED HUB LOT’ S SI GNATUR E ART OF FUSION CONCEPT. THE BIG BANG FOR THE MODEL’S FIFTEENTH ANNIVERSARY IS THE FIRST TO BE FIT T ED WITH AN INTEGR ATED META L BR ACELET. COM P OS ED OF ON E CENTRAL AND TWO LATERAL LINKS, ITS SHARP STYLE REPLICATES THAT OF THE CASE. A COMBI N ATI ON OF PO L ISH ED AND SATI N FI N ISH ES PLU S BE V ELL ING AND CHAM FER ING PRODUCES THE SAME IMPRESSION OF DEPTH AS BE TWEEN THE CASE AND THE BEZEL LUG. THIS BIG BANG INTEGRAL COMES IN TITANIUM, KING GOLD AND AS A 500-PIECE LIMITED EDITION IN CERAMIC. IT RETAINS THE CHARACTERISTIC SANDWICH CON-STRUCTION, BUT WITHOUT THE COMPOSITE RESIN INSERT. THE MOVEMENT IS THE IN-HOUSE HUB 1280 FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH WITH DOUBLE HORIZONTAL CLUTCH.Integral fusionWhen the Big Bang exploded onto the scene in 2005, it was nothing short of a gamechanger, blasting Hublot’s Art of Fusion — a concept seen on the brand’s ﬁrst watches in the 1980s - into a new dimension. The sandwich construction with “ears” protruding from each side of the case lent itself to a mix of gold, steel and Kevlar while the imposing diameter made a match for the powerful design. Other distinctive features were the rubber inserts in the crown and chrono pushers, the woven carbon ﬁbre dial and the ceramic bezel with six exposed screws, recognisable by their H shape. This was a beast of a watch with a high-grade engine, designed to get noticed. And it did. Just months after its launch, the Big Bang carried off the Design Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, setting Hublot on an exponential upward trajectory.For the ﬁfteenth anniversary of its legendary watch, Hublot has broken with one of the Big Bang’s founding principles and replaced the rubber strap with an integrated metal bracelet; a ﬁrst for the collection. “The rubber strap is still our signature,” says Chief Executive Ricardo Guadalupe. “This new model completes the line-up. Knowing that 60% of global sales are made in this segment, it seemed like a shame not to offer our own interpre-tation. The difference being that the bracelet deﬁnes the watch, not vice versa.” True to form, Hublot has indeed given this new bracelet a look of its own. The construction itself is familiar ter-rain, with one central link ﬂanked by two lateral links. What really stands out is the sharp style, a perfect continuation of the case design (now without the composite resin insert). For the links, polished and satin-ﬁnished surfaces combine with bevelled and chamfered edges to create depth and contrast, whether for the titanium, King Gold or black ceramic version. C.R.

Page 51

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 51© Carsten Peter ULYSSE NARDIN FREAK X MAGMA. MADE FROM A SEISMIC COMBINATION OF CA R B O N FI B R E AND RED MA R B LED EPOX Y RES I N , E AC H FRE AK X MAGMA IS UN I Q U E . MOUNTED ON A BLACK LEATHER STRAP WITH RED BAR TACKS, IT EVOKES THE OBSIDIAN VOLCANIC ROCK AND LAVA FLOW AT ITS ORIGIN, WHILE THE SUPER- LUMINOVATM APPLIED TO THE RED ACCENTS ON THE DIAL MEANS THE WEARER CAN READ THE TIME EVEN IN PITCH BLACK. THE OPEN CASEBACK REVEALS THE UN-230 AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT.VOLCANO — CARSTEN PETER. WINNER OF THE WORLD PRESS PHOTO CONTEST AN D A REG ULAR CONTRIB UTOR TO NATI ONA L GEOG R APH IC MAGA ZINE , CA RSTEN PETER ISN’T AFRAID TO GO TO EXTREMES TO CAPTURE NEVER-BEFORE-SEEN IMAGES, FRO M SC UBA DIV ING IN A GL AC IER ON MONT BL ANC TO CROSSI NG THE SAHARA ON A CAMEL OR CAVING IN BORNEO. PHOTOGRAPHER, FILM-MAKER, BIOLOGIST AND ADVENTURER, CARSTEN PETER EMBODIES THE ULYSSE NARDIN SPIRIT AND THE DESIRE WE EACH HAVE TO EMBARK ON OUR OWN ODYSSEY.ULYSSE NARDIN FREAK X ICE. ICE AND FIRE JOIN FORCES IN THE INCANDES-CENT FREAK X ICE. VISIBLE THROUGH THE OPEN CASEBACK IS THE UN-230 AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT. THE WHITE OF THE ADJUSTABLE LEATHER STRAP WITH RUBB ER COAT ING AGA INST THE NAV Y BLUE OF THE HOUR MARK ERS, BA R TAC KS AND SUPER-LUMINOVATM EVOKE THE POLAR ICE FLOES, MAKING EACH WATCH A CALL TO ADVENTURE ON YOUR WRIST.“Happy, the man who ﬁnds sweet journey’s end, / Like Ulysses…”. These words, from 1557, of the poet Joachim Du Bellay could also be those of Ulysse Nardin; a brand which, like Homer’s king of Ithaca, seeks adventure. It’s a comparison the company is happy to make: “In the spirit of Ulysses, Ulysse Nardin has been at the forefront of timekeeping since its inception. More than a means to an end, exploration is, for Ulysse Nardin, a way of life.” Chief Executive Patrick Pruniaux has this view: “Our three pillars address different audiences but these audiences all share the same values. The Marine collection represents the brand’s heritage and strong personality. The Diver range positions us in the sports watch segment but has a distinc-tive “Manufacture” feel. As for the Freak and the Executive, they bring Ulysse Nardin into the contemporary world. I think we have succeeded in striking the right balance between the three and attaining good complementarity.”Welcome to innovationWhat of this Freak? Introduced in 2001 it is, as its name suggests, a watch like no other, having done away with dial and hands. Instead, it’s the movement itself that displays the time. And this is no ordinary movement either, but a baguette-shaped, ﬂying carousel calibre. As it rotates on its own axis, the tip of a bridge doubles as a minute hand while the mainplate does the job of the hour hand. For good measure, the revolutionary Dual Direct escape-ment is made from silicon and therefore does not require lubricant. So, no dial, no hands and look, no crown! The time is set by rotating the front bezel and the movement wound by turning the caseback. The launch of the Freak some twenty years ago hit the watch world like a bomb-shell, unleashing innovations beyond the wildest dreams of the ordinary watchmaker. This included the brand’s pio-neering use of silicon for the escapement.The Freak has remained at the centre of research by Ulysse Nardin, becoming a laboratory for innovation in the form of the two InnoVision concept watches, the second released in 2017, that are a converging of the latest technical advances from the brand. Such an unconventional, high-mech offering could come across as being only for an elite group of collectors, but that would be to misjudge Ulysse Nardin and its intention to make Freak ownership an attainable reality. Accordingly, last year the brand introduced the Freak X as a gateway into the range. While slightly smaller at 43mm, and with time-setting and winding by a crown, it still reprises the major design and functional elements of the original, as the brand points out: “The baguette movement is still a carousel, turning once on itself every hour to indicate the time. It is simpler, bolder, and has fewer wheels. It has no dial and no hands — the central bridge acts as a minute hand and one of the wheels indicates the hours.”Fire and IceCarrying on from the ﬁrst Freak X and in keeping with the brand’s spirit of adventure and exploration, Ulysse Nardin has unveiled two new styles representing the furthermost forces of nature. The Freak X Ice in titanium captures the pure white beauty of the polar ice ﬂoes while the Freak X Magma whips up a lava storm in red carbon ﬁbre and black DLC titanium. To embody the launch, the brand has joined forces with nature photographer and “storyteller of the extreme” Carsten Peter, a regular contributor to National Geographic magazine whose work “takes the viewer to places most would never dare to go; over glaciers, into tornadoes and right up to the intense heat of volcanoes.”Should Carsten Peter ever need to swap his Freak X for a model more suited to his deep-sea dives, he might want to check out the Diver Chronograph Hammerhead Shark; the latest chapter in Ulysse Nardin’s fully revamped dive watch collection. This ultra-resistant watch won’t ﬂinch before danger: not even an attack by a hammer-head shark whose engraved form swims across the caseback. Christophe RouletA taste for adventureUlysse Nardin’s Diver and Freak collections focus on the unconventional for those in search of innovation and adventure. FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 51

Page 52

VIIVIVI II III IIII52 WATCH YOUR TIME OCEANSI · PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE BRONZO. THIS PROFESSIONAL DIV E WATCH IS WATER-R ESI STA NT TO 300 ME TRE S. INDI-CATIONS REMAIN PERFECTLY VISIBLE, INCLUDING IN THE LOW LIGHT CONDITIONS A DIVER ENCOUNTERS UNDERWATER. AT 9 O’CLOCK, THE SMALL SECONDS HAND INDICATES THE WATCH IS RUNNING PROPERLY WH I LE THE UNID I RECTI ONA L BE ZEL ENA BLE S TH E US ER TO SAFELY MEASURE THE DURATION OF EACH DIVE.II · TUDOR BLACK BAY BRONZE. FOLLOWING ON FROM ITS FIRST BRONZE WATCH, A BLAC K BAY WITH A CHOC-OLATE-BROWN DIAL, TUDOR CONTINUES TO EXPLORE TH IS RE MAR K A BLE AL LOY WHI CH, AS IT AGES , TA KES ON A CHAR ACTER I ST I C PAT INA , WHI LE INTR ODU CIN G A NE W SLATE-GREY COLOUR SCHEME FOR DIAL AND BEZEL.III · BAUME & MERCIER CLIFTON CLUB. ORIGINALLY RELEASED IN STAINLESS STEEL, THE CLIFTON CLUB TU RNS TO BRO NZE FOR NEO-R E TRO APP E AL. THE 42M M CASE IN POLISHED AND SATIN-FINISHED BRONZE WILL DEVELOP ITS OWN UNIQUE PATINA OVER TIME. THE SP O RTI NG CRED ENT IALS OF TH E CLI F TO N CLUB BRO NZE ARE ACCENTUATED BY A SCREW-DOWN CROWN, ALSO IN BRONZE, A UNIDIRECTIONAL ROTATING BEZEL AND A 100-METRE DEPTH RATING.IIII · LONGINES HYDROCONQUEST. THE CER A MIC BEZE L INSER T ON THIS HYD ROCONQUEST MATCHES TH E KHA KI GREEN OF THE DIAL FOR AN ALL-OVER SPORTS FEEL. MOUNTED ON A STEEL BRACELET OR A GREEN RUBBER ST R AP, IT COME S IN TWO SIZES , 41MM AND 43MM, AND IS POWE RED BY AN AUTOM ATI C MECHANICAL MOVEMENT.V · CHANEL J12 38 MM — CALIBRE 12.1. THE J12, WHICH IS WATER-RESISTANT TO 200 METRES, REINVENTS ITSELF WHILE PRESERVING ITS IDENTITY. THE MOVEMENT INSIDE THE 38MM CASE IN STEEL AND HIGHLY RESISTANT BL ACK CERAMIC IS THE IN-HOUSE CALIBRE 12.1 AUTOMATIC MOV E M ENT. CERTIFIED BY TH E CO N T RÔLE OFFICIEL SUISS E DE S CHRO NOM È TRES (CO SC), ITS WOR KINGS ARE VISI BLE THROUGH THE TRANSPARENT SAPPHIRE CASEBACK.VI · BREITLING SUPEROCEAN HERITAGE ‘57 LIMITED EDITION.TH IS CAPS ULE COL LECT ION (PROD UCE D FO R A LIMIT ED PERIOD ONLY) TAKES ITS CUE FROM A WATCH THAT BREITLING PRODUCED IN 1957. WATER-RESISTANT TO 100 METRES AND POWERED BY THE COSC-CERTIFIED BREITLING 10 CALIBRE, IT RIFFS ON THE ENDURINGLY POPULAR TREND FOR VINTAGE WATCHES.VII · ULYSSE NARDIN DIVER CHRONOGRAPH 44. THE BR AND’S RE VAMP OF IT S DI VER LI N E IN CLU DES AN ARRAY OF NE W CHRO N O G R A P H S , NOT LE AS T TH I S HAMMERHEAD SH ARK LIMIT ED EDIT ION IN A 44M M DI AMETER. WATER-R E-SISTANT TO 300 METRES, IT IS DRIVEN BY THE IN-HOUSE UN-150 MOVEMENT WITH SILICON ESCAPEMENT.Backtracking in time, the ﬁrst water-resistant watch appeared in 1926, again thanks to Rolex. The story of Mercedes Gleitze and the ﬁrst ever Oyster has been told many times over yet never fails to impress. In one move, the Swiss brand pulled off a double masterstroke of technical innovation and communication. A year after introducing this watertight (hence the Oyster name) case, Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf spotted an opportunity to both test the invention and gain publicity by get-ting Mercedes Gleitze, a British secretary and long- distance swimmer, to wear one around her neck during her ﬁrst attempt to cross the English Channel. What began as a sporting exploit became a marketing master class: Gleitze had barely stepped out of the water near Dover after a gruelling 15 hours and 15 minutes when Rolex was printing a full-page advertisement in the Daily Mail in praise of her performance and, more speciﬁcally, that of the watch which emerged still ticking, thanks to its patented watertight case. Media interest was such that other brands soon joined the hotly disputed race to manufacture a water-resistant watch that could withstand pressure beyond human limits.Military issueIt was in this context that another battle commenced, to equip Navy divers with a suitable watch. During the Second World War, Ofﬁcine Panerai supplied frogman comman-dos of the Italian Royal Navy with water-resistant watches adapted to their missions. Underwater visibility came from a luminescent (and radioactive) radium-based paint that gave the watch its name: Radiomir. Of course, today’s watches use non-radioactive lume.Two important dive watches saw daylight in 1953. One was the Rolex Submariner, water-resistant to 100 then 300 metres. The other was the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. This now iconic watch was developed by Blancpain for the French Ministry of Defence. Tough and reliable, it provided water-resistance to 91.45 metres or 50 fathoms. The Fifty Fathoms became the blueprint for professional dive watches and soon forged a reputation among naval forces around the world, as well as oceanographers. It’s no coincidence that Jacques Cousteau wore one in The Silent World, directed by Louis Malle and winner of the Palme d’Or at the 1956 Cannes Film Festival.Saving the oceansConservation of the oceans, barely 10% of which have been explored, is now an important mission for dive watch manufacturers. A number of brands, conscious of the ocean’s fragility and vital importance for life on Earth, are working along-side NGOs and scientists to raise awareness and generate public support. The collaboration between Rolex and National Geographic, initiated over 60 years ago, to study the effects of climate change, and the Mission Blue project, led by marine biologist Dr Sylvia Earle also with the support of Rolex, are good examples. The aim of the latter project is to safeguard 30% of ocean surface as protected areas by 2030. ˇ

Page 53

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 53LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR CURVE FLYING TOURBILLON POINÇON DE GENÈVE. THIS LIGHTWEIGHT, OPENWORK RATHER THAN SKELETONISED DESIGN BELONGS TO A NEW GENERATION OF INTENSELY MASCULINE WATCHES. REGULATED BY A FLYING TOURBILLON, AND ASSEMBLED AND FINISHED BY HAND, IT CARRIES THE POINÇON DE GENÈVE, A HALLMARK OF QUALITY, AT 6 O’CLOCK. THIS TAMBOUR CU RVE FLYIN G TOUR BILLO N FU RTH ER ESTABL ISHES LOU IS VUIT TON WITHIN THE SMALL CIRCLE OF WATCHMAKERS TO HAVE EARNED THIS DISTINCTION.LV 108 CALIBRE. THE NEW TAMBOUR CURVE IS FITTED WITH AN INNOVATIVE MECHANICAL MOVEMENT THAT PROVIDES 80 HOURS OF POWER RESERVE. GEOMETRIC OPENWORK LEADS THE EYE TOWARDS THE TITANIUM TOURBILLON CAG E . PR OMIN ENTLY POS ITI ONE D AT 9 O’CLOC K , IT TAKES ITS SHAPE FROM ONE OF THE MOTIFS OF THE FAMED LOUIS VUITTON MONOGRAM. THE BRAND’S LV INITIALS HAVE BEEN CLEVERLY INCORPORATED INTO THE MOVEMENT THROUGH SKILFUL PLAY ON ARCHITECTURAL TRANSPARENCIES.LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR CURVE FLYING TOURBILLON POINÇON DE GENÈVE SET VERSION. THE CARBOSTRATUM® USED FOR THE OUTER PART OF THE CASE IS A COMPOSITE MATERIAL PRODUCED BY RANDOMLY LAYERING MORE THAN 100 SHEETS OF CARBON, WHICH ARE THEN COMPRESSED AT A CONTROLLED TEMPERATURE. ONCE FINISHED, THIS CARBON OVERLAY FITS PERFECTLY OVER A GRADE 5 TITANIUM BASE. ON THIS VERSION, LUGS, FLANGE AND CROWN ARE SET WITH A TOTAL OF 152 BAGUETTE-CUT DIAMONDS.Watchmaking has always been tied in with travel at Louis Vuitton, as well as an opportunity for the French luxury house to show off its skill.Good timesLouis Vuitton Moët Hennessy is on top of the world — ﬁguratively and literally, judging by the group’s results for 2019. The French luxury conglomerate navigated economic crosswinds to deliver a 15% increase in revenue which, for the ﬁrst time ever, sailed past the €50 billion mark. For a group this size to grow on this scale is quite simply phe-nomenal. On top of this record growth, in November last year the group reached a landmark agreement to add the quintessential American jewellery ﬁrm, Tiffany, to its stable of world-class names, which also includes Louis Vuitton, ﬁrmly ensconced at the top of BrandZ’s ranking of the Top 50 most valuable French brands.Louis Vuitton’s Watch division is no stranger to this success. Ever since the launch of its debut collection, Tambour, in 2002, the brand has made clear its ambition. First off the mark, the COSC-certiﬁed LV277 Chronograph showed there was still room for originality in the hotly disputed market for round watches. From this strong start, the brand would move into the rareﬁed realms of Haute Horlogerie, no small thanks to La Fabrique du Temps. In 2014 Louis Vuitton consolidated all its watchmaking operations into this one entity, located on the outskirts of Geneva, and set off on its journey into the fascinat-ing world of complications. Since then, it has produced some of the most imaginative complicated movements around, ranging from minute repeaters and skeleton tourbillons to a vertical mysterious movement, rotating displays, and more.Watchmaking for the third millenniumNothing, it seems, is beyond Louis Vuitton’s reach, includ-ing a boldly futuristic take on that very same iconic Tambour. Unveiled in March this year, the Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève transports the brand into a high-tech era: this is watchmaking for the third millennium. Louis Vuitton describes the design as openworked as opposed to skeletonised, part of “a new generation of intensely masculine watches.” From the movement to the materials, from the caseband to the strap and folding clasp, each detail has been reinvented. Forming a continuous curve, the outside of the convex case is made from CarboStratum®, an ultra-lightweight composite that is exclusive to Louis Vuitton. A hundred sheets of carbon ﬁbre are heated then compressed to form random layers which are milled to reveal a pattern that is unique to that piece. This outer case is ﬁtted over an inner frame in titanium, with sandblasted titanium for the lugs. The geometric openwork in the mechanical movement leads the eye towards the ﬂying tourbillon and its cage, also in titanium, which borrows its shape from the Monogram Flower motif. To complete the picture, the famous “LV” initials logo has been cleverly incorporated into the movement as both a design element and part of the structure. One of the toughest quality certiﬁcations in watchmaking, the Poinçon de Genève or Geneva Seal hallmark testiﬁes to the origin, quality and reliability of this Tambour Curve.Next-gen materials aside, travel remains a powerful theme in the collections of a brand that star ted life as a trunkmaker. True to tradition, earlier this year the dual-time complica-tion was added to the Tambour Moon collection: so-named for the inward curve, like a crescent moon, of its case. The Tambour Moon Dual Time comes as versions for men and for women, with or without diamonds. It too plays on familiar tropes such as the Monogram Flower or colourful symbols inspired by the ﬂags that would have adorned a well-trav-elled trunk. Carrying on the travel theme is the Tambour World Time Runway which shows globetrotters the time in 24 time zones at a glance. The black, white and yellow colour scheme is taken from airport runways. As for the new Escale Spin Time, which replaces conventional time-telling with an inventive and patented system of rotating cubes, it returns with a meteorite dial. Because there is always an “elsewhere” to explore. Christophe Roulet

Page 54

Page 55

Illustrator Marcel Van Luit @ADB Agency POLES WATCH YOUR TIME 55Whether the eighteenth-century navigator Captain James Cook, the intrepid Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen, leader of the ﬁrst expe-dition to the South Pole in 1911, or Mike Horn and his 2003 voyage around the Arctic Circle on foot, these fearless individuals could count on timepieces built for the most unforgiving environments. James Cook set sail with a marine chronometer by English watchmaker John Arnold. Roald Amundsen carried a Zenith pocket watch. Mike Horn wore a Panerai on his wrist. But as the elements unleashed their fury, the earliest timepieces to have accompanied explorers quickly showed their limits. The ﬁrst rusted because their case wasn’t watertight. Others succumbed to the huge temperature variations of these inhospitable climates and were no longer precise. And if this weren’t enough, the magnetic ﬁelds emitted by a ship’s compass or around the poles made timekeeping erratic at best.With so many factors wreaking havoc on precision, watchmakers turned their attention to ﬁnding the most judicious and cost-effective solutions. The question of how to compensate for temperature difference was resolved early on, in the eighteenth century. Water-tightness was the next problem to be ticked off the list in the 1920s and 30s, as brands started to produce watches for athletes, scientists or the military which meant (among other things) sealing their case against moisture and dust. This left the question of magnetic ﬁelds; a sizeable concern given the proliferation of electrical and magnetic devices in daily life at a time, the 1950s, when wristwatches were commonplace.Fatal Fatal attractionattractionEver since clockmaker John Harrison gave ships’ crews the means to calculate their position at sea, the ability to measure time with precision has been an intrinsic part of the human adventure. In particular timepieces built to function in the most extreme conditions.A man’s friends are his magnetisms.—Ralph Waldo Emerson ( 1803 — 1882 )JAEGER-LECOULTRE POLARIS DATE. INSPIRED BY THE POLARIS II FROM 1970, THIS LIMITED EDITION WITH DATE DISPLAY PRESENTS A NEW GRADIENT DIAL IN BLUE WITH A HAND-LACQUERED SUNRAY FINISH. WATER-RESISTANT TO 200 METRES, IT IS RECOGNISABLE AT A GLANCE BY ITS LARGE ARABIC NUMERALS, TRAPEZOIDAL MARKERS AND BATON HANDS, ALL COATED WITH PERIOD-APPROPRIATE VANILLA-COLOURED SUPERLUMINOVATM. EQUALLY DISTINCTIVE ARE THE TWO PROMINENT CROWNS: ONE TO SET THE TIME, MEASURED BY THE IN-HOUSE CALIBRE 899A/1, AND ONE TO OPERATE THE INNER ROTATING BEZEL.--o------- Vincent Daveau>

Page 56

56 WATCH YOUR TIMEIII IIIIIIII · ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL EXPLORER II. THIS OYSTER PERP ETUAL EXPLOR ER II IN STE EL ON AN IN TEGRATED BRACELET FEATURE S A WHITE DI AL WITH A DISTINCTIVE ARROW-SHAPED 24-HOUR HAND AND HOUR MARKERS IN CHROMALIGHT. ITS EASILY LEGIBLE DIAL, HIGHLY RESISTANT OYSTERSTEEL AND WATER-RESISTANCE MAKE IT THE WATCH FOR THE EXTREMES.II · LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR MOON DUAL TIME GRAPHITE. INTRODUCED IN 2017, THE TAMBOUR MOON IS NAMED FOR THE CRESCENT-SHAPED CURVE OF ITS CASE. THE SPECIALLY DESIGNED FLAGS ON THE DIAL CONFIRM THIS IS A WATCH FO R TH E MO DER N TR AV ELLER , WH O WI L L AP PRE-CIATE THE GMT COMPLICATION. THERE ARE PLENTY OF OPPORTUNITIES FOR PERSONALISA-TION, THANKS TO A PALETTE OF INTERCHANGE-ABLE STRAPS.III · MONTBLANC 1858 GEOSPHERE. MONTBLANC DE DIC ATES TH IS WATC H TO TH E SE V EN SUMMI TS CHA L LEN GE, TH E TR UE MO UNTA I NEE R ’S ULTIMAT E GOA L . TH E S E SEVEN PEAKS ARE REPRESE N T ED AS RED DOTS ON THE TWO DOMED GLOBES. ROTAT-ING ONC E IN 24 HO URS IN OPPO SITE DIR EC TION S, THEY INDICATE WORLD TIMES. THERE IS ALSO A SECOND TIME ZONE DISPLAY AT 9 O’CLOCK.IIII · AUDEMARS PIGUET CODE 11.59 SELF-WINDING CHRONOGRAPH. CODE 11.59 BREAKS THE MOULD OF WATCH DESIGN: A THIN ROUND BE Z EL ON AN OC TAGON AL CAS E WI TH SOFTENED ANGLES, HOLLOWED LUGS AND A LACQUER DIAL UN DER A DOUB LE CURV ED SAP PHIR E CRYSTA L . IT IS ALSO AN EXAMPLE OF MECHANICAL EXPERTISE, WI TH AUD EMARS PIGUE T’S FIRST IN -HO USE INTE-GRATED CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENT.Pilots firstThe ﬁrst technical solutions intended to counter this invisible enemy appeared in the 1940s with the devel-opment of components in less easily magnetized metals, such as bronze-beryllium for the balance wheel, ferron-ickel for the balance spring and soft iron inner cases to shield the movement. However, it would be another decade before brands started to look seriously into a problem they had yet to fully understand. The adven-turers and explorers who travelled to the ends of the earth, pushing their own limits and those of the known world, weren’t the only ones concerned. Interference from the numerous electromagnetic ﬂight instruments in civil and military aircraft played havoc with pilots’ watches, sometimes to the point where they would stop working completely.IWC, in the Swiss town of Schaffhausen, was another maker with strong ties to aviation, but it would be a dif-ferent branch — engineering — that focused its attention in the 1950s. Launched in 1955 as Reference 666, the Ingenieur was designed to provide scientists and techni-cians with the full range of necessary functionalities. This robust watch presented a clean dial that emphasised leg-ibility and testiﬁed to a genuine fascination with mechan-ical solutions to the problems of the day. The Ingenieur would be a milestone in watchmaking’s battle against magnetic ﬁelds and has exerted a lasting inﬂuence on the appearance of a modern, functional watch. IWC wasn’t the only one researching ways to reduce the effects of residual magnetism on its watches. Rolex threw its hat (or perhaps its coronet) into the ring in 1956 with the introduction of the Oyster Perpetual Milgauss. It too was aimed at electrical and mechanical engineers seeking a watch that would keep accurate time in all conditions. Another contender in this com-petition to equip technicians with the ideal tool watch, Omega launched the Railmaster in 1957. It catered to the drivers of diesel-electric locomotives whose engines produced sufﬁcient magnetism to disturb an ordinary watch’s proper functioning. Originally built to resist up to 1,000 gauss, the unit of measurement of magnetic ABLANCPAIN FIFTY FATHOMS AUTOMATIC. BLANCPAIN IS REINTERPRETING ITS FIFTY FATHOMS, THE ICONIC DIVER’S WATCH THAT HAS INSPIRED THE ENTIRE GENRE SINCE ITS LAUNCH IN 1953. THE 2019 EDITION RETAINS THE SPORTY AND DISTINGUISHED CHARACTER OF ITS PEERS, TO WHICH IT ADDS A TOUCH OF CHIC AND HIGH-TECH WITH A RED GOLD CASE AND A CERAMIC DIAL. FEATURING A 45 MM DIAMETER CASE AND WATER-RESISTANT TO 300 METRES, THE NEW FIFTY FATHOMS AUTOMATIC BEATS TO THE RHYTHM OF THE 1315 MOVEMENT. STEMMING FROM A LENGTHY QUEST FOR PRECISION AND PERFORMANCE, IT HAS BEEN SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR SPORTS WATCHES. BLANCPAIN HAS EQUIPPED IT IN THIS INSTANCE WITH A VERY DENSE RED GOLD OSCILLATING WEIGHT ENSURING HIGH WINDING EFFICIENCY FOR AN OPTIMAL FIVE-DAY POWER RESERVE WHEN THE WATCH IS FULLY WOUND.Marine passionDespite the aura that has always surrounded the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, come the early 2000s this iconic dive watch took something of a back seat. It returned center-stage under the stewardship of Marc A. Hayek, appointed President and CEO of Blancpain in 2002 and himself an accomplished diver. In 2007 the Fifty Fathoms was relaunched with three new models: an automatic with date, a ﬂyback chronograph and a ﬂying tourbillon. Since then, it has established itself as one of the brand’s ﬂagship models, taking onboard complications and technical advances such as the mechanical depth gauge in the X Fathoms, silicon balance springs or a ﬂyback chrono with complete calendar and moonphase display. Women have had their Fifty Fathoms since 2008, followed in 2013 by a “dressier” interpretation in the form of the Bathyscaphe range, which borrows its name and design from a 1956 model that was inspired by Swiss oceanographer Jacques Piccard’s submersible.This proximity with the marine world couldn’t limit itself to the manufacture of watches, however advanced and reliable they may be. Alongside this production, which positions Blancpain as a leading dive watch specialist, the brand was quick to support initiatives to conserve marine ecosystems, ultimately regroup-ing all its actions and partnerships under the name Blancpain Ocean Commitment, with its own website. Proof that the brand is serious in its support, it has released three limited-edition Ocean Commitment Fifty Fathoms. For each sale, Blancpain makes a donation that adds to its much larger contribution to ocean conservation. Among the expeditions to have ben-eﬁted, the brand was an early supporter of the Pristine Seas Expeditions, led by National Geographic from 2011 to 2016 to secure protection of some of the globe’s unspoiled ocean areas. Since 2013 it has underwritten Laurent Ballesta’s Gombessa Project, which studies some of the rarest and most elusive marine creatures and underwater phenomena. C.R.

Page 57

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife watchJaeger-LeCoultre presents the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman knife watch, a limited edition of 100 timepieces, specially adapted for The King’s Man, the newest ﬁlm in the Kingsman series which links past and present, going back 100 years to the origins of the Kingsman agency. So too has Jaeger-LeCoultre drawn upon its great historic mastery of ultra-thin calibres to develop a new timepiece directly inspired by the celebrated 1907 “Couteau” (couteau is French for knife) pocket watch. The watch is a reﬁned dress watch that blends tradition and modernity in a manner perfectly suited to both The King’s Man and to contemporary style. The aesthetic roots of the new watch are unmistakably those of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s traditional pocket watches: the very broad bezel slopes gently from the sapphire crystal to the edge of the case, creating a ﬁne proﬁle reminiscent of a knife blade and the winding crown, protected by its triangular bow, is placed at 12 o’clock. However, these timeless and traditional elements are brought right up to date with subtly modern details such as simple index hour markers and a ﬁnely drawn ring on the bezel. Presented in a classically elegant 40 mm size, the pink gold case is just 4.25 mm thick. The ultra-thin case houses Jaeger-LeCoultre’s celebrated hand-wound calibre 849. At just 1.85 millimetres thick, the movement underlines La Grande Maison’s century-old mastery of this demanding form of Haute Horlogerie.POLES WATCH YOUR TIME 57

Page 58

58 WATCH YOUR TIMEIII IIIII III · ULYSSE NARDIN MARINE TORPILLEUR MILITARY BLACK. ULYSSE NARDIN EXTENDS ITS MARINE TORPILLEUR MILITARY COLLECTION WITH TWO NE W REFER ENC ES, INC LUD ING THI S BLACK VER-SION IN DLC-TREATED STEEL. WATER-RESIST-ANT TO 50 METRES, THE 44MM CASE CONTAINS THE IN-HOUSE UN-118 MOVEMENT WITH SILI-CON ESCAPEMENT, CERTIFIED BY THE COSC.II · BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO AUTOMATIC STEEL.ONCE AGAIN, THE OCTO FINISSIMO COMBINES AN ITALIAN FLAIR FOR DESIGN WITH SWISS WATCH-M A K IN G E X P E RTI S E I N TH I S VE R S I ON IN SAT IN - P OL-ISHED STEEL WITH A PO LISH ED BL AC K LACQUER DIAL. THE MOVEMENT IS THE BVL138 FINISSIMO, AN EXTRA-THIN CALIBRE AT JUST 2.23MM HIGH.III · HERMÈS CAPE COD MARTELÉE. IMAGINED IN 1991 BY HENRI D’ORIGNY, THE CAPE COD’S “SQUARE INSIDE A RECTANGLE” IS A MASTER CLASS IN DESIGN, COMPOSED OF TWO HALF-LINKS INSPIRED BY A BOAT’S ANCHOR CHAIN. ON THIS NEW ITER ATION, THE ICONIC DESIGN IS JOINED BY A HAMMERING TECHNIQUE BO R R OWED FROM THE JEWELLER’S REPERTOIRE.IIII · SEIKO PRESAGE STUDIO GHIBLI PORCO ROSSO. TRADITIONAL JAPANESE HANDCRAFTS, SUCH AS SHIPPO ENAMEL AND ARITA PORCELAIN, HAVE REMAINED A CENTRAL FEATURE OF THE PRESAGE COLLECTION SINCE ITS INTRODUCTION IN 2016. THIS LATEST ITERATION GIVES A MORE CONTEMPORARY VISION OF JAPANESE ARTISTRY, BEING INSPIRED BY THE “PORCO ROSSO” FEA-TU RE- LENGTH AN IMATED FILM BY ST UDI O GHI BLI.strength, today’s Railmaster (now par t of the Seamaster collection) is capable of withstanding ﬁfteen times that amount (15,000 gauss) thanks to Omega’s new- generation Master Chronometer mechanical calibre.Science for the common manInterest in magnetism climaxed in 1957 — International Geophysical Year — when scientists from 67 nations took part in projects to further understanding of Earth’s physical properties and solar activity. The year, which ran from July 1957 to December 1958, was timed to corre-spond with the peak of the solar cycle so that astrono-mers, oceanographers, seismologists, meteorologists and glaciologists could optimise their fundamental research and reﬁne observations. It’s important to remember that this ambitious global project, part of which was conducted in the Arctic and the Antarctic, was followed not just by the scientiﬁc community but by the ordinary public too, thankful to see human intelligence engaged in some-thing other than Cold War military projects.The ﬁrst means watchmakers devised to protect the movement against magnetism, and therefore maintain precise timekeeping, was to enclose it in a soft iron inner case which, like a Faraday cage, shielded against even the most powerful magnetic rays This is an effective method, still employed by some traditional brands. Others have opted instead for amagnetic or paramagnetic materials such as silicon, carbon, titanium and even new-genera-tion stainless steel. These continued endeavours to counter the effects of magnetism coincide with brands’ growing commitment to environmental con-servation. Many support projects to combat climate change and, extending from this, are looking more intently at a watch’s capacity to function in those parts of the world in need of urgent action. Brands from Alpina to Seiko to more recent arrivals such as Garmin are proposing watches built not for adven-ture and exploration, but with conservation of the planet in mind. ˇird millennium watches get their dedicated booke Millennium Watch Book is not only a collective work analyzing the essentials of horology since the year 2000, but also a volume displaying all this in XXL format and thus pro-viding watch fans and devotees of design objects with a pleasure as in-exhaustible as the energy supplied by automatic winding.More than a year of R&D and over 20 watchmaking experts were re-quired to design this cult 300-page book, consisting of half a million characters and a thousand photos. Its production is limited, but it can be reserved at a preferential rate on the-watch-book.com.www.the-watch-book.comPub wach book 108x380mm.indd 1 19.06.20 13:37

WATCH YOUR TIME EUROPE UK 2020

Page 1

Page 2

Page 3

Page 4

Page 5

Page 6

Page 7