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WATCH YOUR TIME EUROPE UK 2020 : simplebooklet.com

SPECIAL WATCH MAGAZINE
As seen by
Audemars Piguet,
Baume & Mercier, Blancpain,
Bvlgari, Cartier, Chanel,
Grand Seiko, Hermès, Hublot,
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Louis Vuitton,
Panerai, Rolex, TAG Heuer,
Ulysse Nardin, Van Cleef & Arpels...
Marcel Van Luit and
the Hand of Time
Discover the world of
this year’s new watches
watchyourtime.com
European Edition 2020
SPECIAL FEATURE
THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 24
th
2020. PUBLISHED BY EDITIONS TEMPS INTERNATIONAL
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Marcel van Luit was born and raised in Groningen, in the Netherlands. After studying to be a teacher, he instead
became a social worker before embarking on a new career in art. His journey to who he is today began in 2013
when Marcel, who had just become a father to his first son, Otis, was diagnosed with Guillain-Barré Syndrome, a
rare condition that affects the nerves and which left him completely paralyzed. After months in hospital, he was
transferred to a rehabilitation centre. Still in a wheelchair and eager to find something to get him through the long
days ahead, he picked up a camera and started taking photos. Whenever Otis came to visit, Marcel would shoot
dozens of pictures which he then edited into dream worlds, creating the adventures he and his baby son couldn’t yet
enjoy. A whole new passion opened up to Marcel, who developed what would become his signature style of con
-
trasting tonalities, darkness and light. He posted some of his work on Instagram where he quickly gained an online
fan base. He also came to the attention of the European art scene, from where his offline career took off. A solo
show at Corrado Bortone Gallery in Paris, in May 2018, would be the first of numerous exhibitions across the globe,
including in Antwerp, Miami, Sao Paulo, Amsterdam, Los Angeles, Zurich and Santiago de Chile. Marcel van Luit is
represented by ADB Agency in New York, Paris and London, and creates custom artwork for international clients.
In 2020 he published his first limited-edition book: Where the Dreamers Go.
ILLUSTRATOR MARCEL VAN LUIT @ADB AGENCY
Marcel Van Luit
PUBLISHER-FOUNDER CHRISTIAN LLAVALL-UBACH MANAGING DIRECTOR ISABELLE BOUDRINGHIN EDITIONS@TEMPS-INTERNATIONAL.COM WATCH
CONSULTANT ERIC DUMATIN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR CHRISTOPHE ROULET CONTRIBUTORS PETER BRAUN (GERMANY), VINCENT DAVEAU (FRANCE), PAOLO DE
VECCHI (ITALY), FABRICE ESCHMANN (SWITZERLAND), PALOMA RECIO (SPAIN), CHRISTOPHE ROULET (SWITZERLAND) TRANSLATORS SANDRA PETCH, PALOMA
RECIO, PAOLO DE VECCHI, AMAÏA TRADUCTIONS PHOTOGRAPHER
MARCEL VAN LUIT
ARTISTIC DIRECTOR VINCENT FESSELET, GENEVA PHOTOENGRAVERS
BOMBIE, GENEVA, PRINTED IN THE U.E. REPRODUCTION, EVEN PARTIAL, OF MATERIAL PUBLISHED IN WATCH YOUR TIME IS STRICTLY PROHIBITED. ALL
RIGHTS RESERVED IN THE U.K. AND OTHER COUNTRIES.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER CONTROL GEOGRAPHIC.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE’S UNIQUE INTERPRETATION OF THE TRAVEL WATCH
HAS BEEN A FEATURE OF THE MASTER CONTROL COLLECTION SINCE
1990, MUCH APPRECIATED BY CONNOISSEURS. RATHER THAN INDICATING
ONLY THE HOUR OF A SECOND TIME ZONE, THE GEOGRAPHIC ALSO HAS A
24-HOUR NIGHT/DAY INDICATOR AND, IN AN APERTURE AT THE BOTTOM OF
THE DIAL, DISPLAYS THE CITY NAME RELATING TO THE ZONE. THIS GIVES
TRAVELLERS THE OPTION OF SETTING THE SECOND TIME BY LOCATION,
RATHER THAN NEEDING TO CALCULATE THE TIME DIFFERENCE. THE NEW-
GENERATION CALIBRE 939 INCREASES THE POWER RESERVE OF THE
MASTER CONTROL GEOGRAPHIC TO 70 HOURS, WHILE THE CASE IS
AVAILABLE IN A CHOICE OF STEEL OR LE GRAND ROSE GOLD
®
.
11 focus audemars piguet
Innovative Spirit
12 editorial
Three views of time
13 focus cartier
Eternal icons
15 focus tag heuer
360° expertise
17 focus print a live
Opens a new window on information
20 focus chanel
Pioneer of time
22 focus bvlgari
Dolce vita
24 EXPLORATION
A matter of survival — PETER BRAUN
29 focus panerai
Stupendous 70
32 focus baume & mercier
Heritage and innovation
34 focus rolex
Perpetual Planet
38 JEWELLERY
Jewelled delights — MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON
41 focus hermès
Eternal vision
42 ENVIRONMENT
Mother Nature — CHRISTOPHE ROULET
45 focus van cleef & arpels
All you need is love
47 focus seiko
60 years of perfection
48 OCEANS
The call of the deep — PALOMA RECIO
51 focus ulysse nardin
A taste for adventure
53 focus louis vuitton
Good times
54 POLES
Fatal attraction — VINCENT DAVEAU
WATCH
YOUR TIME
SPECIAL WATCH MAGAZINE
PRODUCED FOR THE DAILY TELEGRAPH ON THURSDAY
SEPTEMBER 24,
2020 BY EDITIONS TEMPS INTERNATIONAL
WHO TAKE SOLE RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE CONTENTS.
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EUROPEAN EDITION 2020, PUBLISHED
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IL SOLE 24 ORE (ITALY), EL MUNDO (SPAIN).
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At first sight, the new Audemars Piguet museum in Vallée
de Joux, the ancestral heart of the Swiss watch industry
and home to the venerable Manufacture since it was
founded in 1875, can come as a surprise. Not because
the building is out of place in this peaceful valley. On the
contrary. A glass swirl under a planted roof, it was designed
to blend with the landscape — another way to assert the
individuality of a rm which, having mastered the rules,
chooses to break them. The work of Danish architect
Bjarke Ingels and his BIG architectural firm, whose other
projects include the Google Campus and the Two World
Trade Center tower in New York, the structure is entirely
sympathetic with its surroundings.
For Audemars Piguet, this presence in Vallée de Joux is
essential as it anchors the brand in the terroir of Swiss
watchmaking. Legacy and authenticity are prized attrib-
utes in the profession, something the brand acknowledged
early on with the creation of its first museum in 1992,
inside the original Audemars family home. The museum
was extended in 2004. Today, more than 3,000 people
visit each year to admire the technical tours de force of the
several hundred timepieces on display, certain of which
go back to the company’s foundation, and soak up the
atmosphere of the mountains and valley. The new building
is a reflection of this success while conveying the values
of tradition and innovative thinking that are characteristic
of the Manufacture.
Looking out onto the world
This is, in fact, two ventures in one, to be known as the
Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet. The Musée” or museum
part houses the collection of historic timepieces in a
visual narrative by Atelier Brückner, a German company
and specialist in the design of museum space. Visitors
make their way along the double spiral towards the centre
of the building where grande complication watches are
displayed. The showstopper is LUniverselle, an extraor-
dinary pocket watch produced in 1899 with 1,168 com-
ponents driving more than twenty functions. Audemars
Piguet has also chosen to bring its watchmakers inside
these glass walls hence the Atelier” or workshop in
the name. All highly skilled and experienced in assem-
bling the grandes complications that continue to forge
the brand’s renown, they are joined by the Manufacture’s
other craftsmen and women, including stone-setters
and engravers. We wanted visitors to experience our
heritage, our savoir-faire, our cultural origins and our
outward-looking attitude in a building that would reflect
both our roots and our avant-garde spirit,” says Jasmine
Audemars, Chairwoman of the Board of Directors. “Most
of all though, we wanted this to be a tribute to the watch-
makers and ar tisans who, through generations, have made
Audemars Piguet what it is today.”
The original building, which dates from 1868, hasn’t
been forgotten. Fully and sympathetically restored, it
provides space for the restoration workshop, the archives
and the Heritage division. It is also the headquarters of
the Audemars Piguet Foundation, which contributes to
the global conservation of trees and forests. The brand
is a patron of the arts, and so the new Musée Atelier
presents works by the contemporary artists who benefit
from its support. These many elements are indicative of
the vast passion that drives the brand and which, coincid-
ing with the museums ofcial opening, takes the shape
of the [Re]Master01. Directly inspired by a 1943 limited
edition, it tells its part of a story spanning hundreds
of years. Christophe Roulet
AUDEMARS PIGUET [RE]MASTER01. IN THE SAME WAY OLD RECORDINGS CAN
BE REMAST ERED, AU DEM ARS PIG UET HAS TR ANS POS ED A 194 3 CH RON OGR A PH
TO A WATCH FOR THE 2020S. MANY OF THE ORIGINALS DISTINCTIVE FEATURES
RE MAIN , IN PA RTI CUL AR TH E CASE IN STEEL AND PI NK GOLD, THE OL IVE-SHAPED
PUSHERS, THE TEARDROP LUGS AND THE CHAMPAGNE-COLOURED DIAL WITH
NUMERALS IN AN ART DECO-STYLE FONT. ALIGNING THIS [RE]MASTER01 WITH
CONTEMPORARY TASTES ARE THE LARGER 40MM DIAMETER.
MUSÉE ATELIER AUDEMARS PIGUET. THE MAISON DES FONDATEURS, WHERE
JULES LOUIS AUDEMARS AND EDWARD AUGUSTE PIGUET OPENED THEIR FIRST
WORKSHO P IN 1875, CONN ECTS WITH AN ULTR A-CO NTE MPOR A RY GLASS SP IRAL
DESIGNED BY BJARKE INGELS GROUP. THE REMARKABLE MECHANISMS AND
DESIGNS THAT HAVE TAKEN SHAPE HERE IN THE VALE DE JOUX FOR MORE
THAN TWO CENTURIES ARE PRESENTED INSIDE THIS EXCEPTIONAL SETTING.
AT THE CENTRE OF THE SPIRAL, THE GRANDES COMPLICATIONS AND TIERS
DART WO RKS HOP S GI VE VI SITOR S A RA RE OPPOR TUN ITY TO SEE WATC HMAK ERS
WORKIN G ON HIG HLY COM PLEX PIECES , IN A CON TINUAT I ON OF TH E SAVOI R-FAI RE
THAT PRODUCED THE 300 TIMEPIECES ON DISPLAY. THIS AMBITIOUS ARCHITEC-
TURAL PROJECT AND THE INNOVATIVE MUSEUM DESIGN WERE MADE POSSIBLE
THROUGH COLLABORATION BETWEEN ARCHITECTS, ENGINEERS AND LOCAL
ARTISANS WHO WORKED ALONGSIDE AUDEMARS PIGUET’S DEPARTMENTS TO
CREATE THIS UNIQUE PERSPECTIVE ON THE MEASURING OF TIME.
Innovative spirit
Established in 1875, Audemars Piguet is
opening its Musée Atelier in a new building
that connects with the original premises
of the Manufacture, testament to the vision
of a brand that embraces past and future.
FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 11
12 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS
The long view
Nelson Mandela believed that “a winner is a dreamer who never
gives up.” Never giving up is to take a long view of time. You could
say Bertrand Piccard came into the world with this view, along with
the ability to dream. Born to a family of scientific explorers, a family
of pioneers, that he should carry on their quest was never in any doubt.
How could it be otherwise when in 1931 your grandfather, the physicist
Auguste Piccard, a friend of Einstein, became the first man to observe Earth’s
curvature by ascending into the stratosphere, to an altitude of 15,781 metres,
in a hot-air balloon. When in 1960 your father, Jacques Piccard, took his
Trieste bathyscaphe to the deepest point of the Mariana Trench, setting an
absolute record at 10,916 metres and showing that life existed even this far
beneath the surface. As for Bertrand Piccard himself, having circled the globe
in a balloon, the Breitling Orbiter III, in 19 days, 21 hours and 47 minutes,
he went on to launch the Solar Impulse solar-powered aircraft project.
Together with André Borschberg, between March 2015 and July 2016 he
completed the first fully solar-powered circumnavigation of the globe.
Every one of these explorations meant “never giving up”. Auguste began
his experiments in the early 1920s yet it wasn’t until 1931 that he finally
reached the stratosphere. Bertrand’s father spent 12 years working on
the bathyscaphe that would take him to the deepest point of the ocean floor.
As for Solar Impulse, it came about only after 15 years of intense work.
As Bertrand Piccard is quick to point out, projects that take shape over the
long term are also projects for the long term. His grandfather and father taught
him a valuable lesson about the impact we have on our planet. Already in 1931,
Auguste Piccard declared that “the question is not so much whether man can go
further and populate other planets, but how we can organise ourselves to make
life on Earth worth living.” Four decades later, in 1972, Jacques Piccard warned
that “the public has not yet woken up to the extent and seriousness of pollution.”
Time for action
The time for talking is over. Now is the time for action. As the world entered a new
millennium, Bertrand Piccard described his belief that “adventure in the twenty-
first century consists of using human ingenuity and mankind’s pioneering spirit
to develop the quality of life that present and future generations deserve to have.”
This urgency, “the only one in [his] life”, is all the more compelling because
“we are responding to an exponential rate of destruction at a linear rate.
It’s important we tell people we are heading for disaster but for this to have any
sense, we need to be offering solutions, too.” He smiles the contented smile
of a cat: “I love it when Greta Thunberg takes the stage first because people
then pay more attention to the solutions earmarked by my foundation.”
Is scaling back production and consumption the solution? Piccard takes a more
nuanced view: “Less growth creates unemployment which is the guarantee of
social chaos. But continuing with quantitative growth creates environmental chaos.
There is a way to reconcile the environment and the economy, and that is qualitative
rather than quantitative growth. Currently we waste 50% of resources, 50% of
energy, 50% of food. By replacing outdated, polluting systems with clean, efcient
systems we create jobs and wealth. We reconcile the short term with the long term.”
Action not words: Piccard has set up the Solar Impulse Foundation to fast-
track solutions that preserve the environment and enable economic growth.
Its objective is to select one thousand solutions that are “logical more than just
ecological, that can create jobs and generate profit while also reducing polluting
emissions and preserving natural resources.” (https://solarimpulse.com)
Inner time
Sometimes, we need to pause the “inner clock” that governs our life. Fully occupied
or “fully empty”, we must learn to put time on hold, all the better to come back to it.
“It’s called meditation or spirituality,” says Bertrand Piccard, quick to add that this
has “nothing to do with the word religion. Ascending into the stratosphere, diving into
an ocean abyss or flying with nothing but the sun to keep you going, all of this gives
you a different, deeper awareness of time. These are moments of absolute grace,
where the long view of time fuses with the need for action and the
fullness of the present.”
He admits he’s still a long way from achieving this state permanently. There are
urgent questions to be addressed first, so that generations to come can enjoy
a planet fit for living.
Pierre Maillard
A conversation
with Bertrand Piccard
Three
views
of time
© Solar Impulse Bertrand Piccard
12 WATCH YOUR TIME EDITORIAL
FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 13
Ever since Cyrille Vigneron’s appointment as chief exec-
utive in 2016, Cartier has been moving in a clear direc-
tion. After concept watches bristling with high-mech
innovation, and grand complication watches which
make rarer, more targeted appearances, the Parisian
firm is taking an overtly sensual, consensual approach
to watch making. Cartier is back to being Cartier, one
might say; more concerned with cultivating a particular
frame of mind than wowing the audience with complex
intermeshings of gears and wheels. Mr Vigneron himself
has described this new line of thinking as “simple: to
revisit or reprise models from Cartier’s heritage which
remains rich in terms of the design, force and beauty
of the collections. The idea is to take themes that had
disappeared or become dormant, and have them evolve.”
The brand is, to say the least, reaping what it has sown,
confirmed by Cyrille Vigneron’s affirmation that the
success of the Panthère and the Santos has exceeded
expectations.
The Panthère is where it all began, in 2017. A ashback
to the 1980s, the new Panthère immediately appealed
to women with its square case, featuring eight screws
around the bezel, and metal bracelet. Next in line, the
following year, was the Santos, a design that first saw
daylight in 1904. A milestone in horological history,
Cartier has transformed a legend into a living legend
with skeleton and chronograph versions, as well as the
curvier Santos-Dumont. The oval Baignoire, born in 1912,
made its welcome return to Cartier’s collections last year.
This year heralds the revival of the Pasha. “We are con-
tinuing the strategy introduced three years ago to pay
tribute to our icons,” says Cyrille Vigneron. “The Pasha
is a celebration of simplicity and substance.”
An icon for today
True to Mr Vigneron’s firm belief that successful watch
brands cultivate a consistent identity, the Pasha was ripe
for revival. It is, after all, an icon on more than one count.
Back in the early 1930s, Louis Cartier received a request
for a wristwatch that could be worn while swimming
but wouldn’t look out of place at a swanky dinner party.
Cartier’s answer was a characterful watch, distinguished
by sword-shaped hands above a square minute track inside
a round dial. In addition to an elegant design, this new
watch was also a feat of technique for the era, with its
robust and waterproof case, automatic movement and a
screw-down crown cover attached to a chain. Discernibly
new, it joined Cartier’s collections as of 1943 and was
revisited in 1985 when it became the Pasha.
“Pasha de Cartier is a cult watch,” notes its maker. At the
time of its launch, this powerful watch caught the eye of
opinion leaders. Initially adopted by men, it was imme
-
diately appropriated by women. True to the original but
even more sophisticated with a blue spinel or sapphire
on the crown, interchangeable strap and space for a
personal engraving under the crown cover, the Pasha
de Cartier for the 2020s is classic yet contemporary,
and as edgy as ever.”
As if to prove that explorations of past icons are no obstacle
to creativity, another of Cartier’s introductions this year is
the Maillon. Under the custodianship of creative director
Marie-Laure Cérède, this precious watch plays on the
look of the classic chain-link bracelet by aligning the links
sideways in a visual continuation of the hexagonal dial.
We wanted to deconstruct the bracelet and approach the
design as a volume,” comments Ms rède. “The emotion
comes from the tension and the movement.” And because
Cartier is a brand for all times, it has extended the warranty
on its watches to eight years.
Eric Dumatin
MAILLON DE CARTIER WATCH. CREATIVIT Y IS SECOND NATURE AT CARTIER, AND
THIS PRECIOUS MAILLON WATCH IS A PERFECT ILLUSTRATION. UNDER CREA-
TIVE DIRECTOR MARIE-LAURE CÉRÈDE, IT PLAYS ON THE LOOK OF THE CLASSIC
CHAIN-LINK BRACELET BY ALIGNING THE LINKS SIDEWAYS IN A VISUAL CONTIN-
UATION OF THE HEXAGONAL DIAL. AND BECAUSE CARTIER IS A BRAND FOR ALL
TIMES, IT HAS EXTENDED THE WARRANTY ON ITS WATCHES TO EIGHT YEARS.
PASHA DE CARTIER WATCH. CARTIER REVISITS THE PASHA, WHICH BECAME
PART OF THE BRAND’S COLLECTIONS IN 1985. DISTINGUISHED BY A SQUARE
MIN UTE TRACK IN SID E A ROUN D DI A L, AD DIT ION AL FE ATUR ES ARE THECHA INE D
CR OW N AN D COVE R, CLOUS DE PAR I S ON TH E BR ACE LET AND 100- M E TRE WAT ER-
RESISTANCE. THE MOVEMENT IS THE 1847 MC, AN AUTOMATIC CALIBRE WHOSE
AMAGNETIC COMPONENTS ARE FURTHER PROTECTED BY A PARAMAGNETIC
SHIELD. THIS NEW PASHA ALSO OFFERS MULTIPLE POSSIBILITIES FOR PERSON-
ALISATION, STARTING WITH A SPACE UNDER THE CROWN COVER FOR A SECRET
EN GRAVIN G. STRAP S CA N BE SWA PPE D IN AN D OU T WI TH A SING LE PUSH THANKS
TO THE QUICKSWITCH SYSTEM, WHICH IS CAMOUFLAGED IN THE CASE BACK.
FOR METAL BRACELETS, THE PATENTED SMARTLINK SYSTEM ADJUSTS FOR THE
PERFECT FIT IN MERE SECONDS.
Eternal icons
After fresh interpretations of the
Santos and the Panthère, Cartier
returns to another of its classic
designs, the Pasha. Joining it this
year is the Maillon, further illustration
of the fabulous creativity the Parisian
brand brings into play.
CYRILLE VIGNERON,
PRESIDENT & CEO
CARTIER INTERNATIONAL
Le Temps Poétique
Collection Pont des Amoureux
Mouvement automatique, rétrograde
et animation à la demande.
Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme depuis 1906
Boutique en ligne www.vancleefarpels.com - +33 1 70 70 02 63
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FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 15
360° expertise
Le Temps Poétique
Collection Pont des Amoureux
Mouvement automatique, rétrograde
et animation à la demande.
Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme depuis 1906
Boutique en ligne www.vancleefarpels.com - +33 1 70 70 02 63
VCA_SWITZ_FR_WATCH YOUR TIME_SEPT24_PONT DES AMOUREUX_NUIT_2019_280x380.indd 1 16/06/2020 12:24
At TAG Heuer 2019 was the year of the Monaco, a true
icon of the brand, celebrating its rst half-century. Its dis-
ruptive design coupled with a high-performance “engine”
Calibre 11, the first automatic chronograph to come
out of Switzerland — earned it a place in watchmaking
history and on-screen when Steve McQueen wore one
in the movie, Le Mans. The five 169-piece anniversary
series, all fitted with Calibre 11, made quite an impres
-
sion,” notes Frédéric Arnault, who was appointed CEO of
TAG Heuer in July this year. The idea was to celebrate
this legend and its disruptive design without ooding
the market. We want to retain the relative exclusivity of
what is a highly sought-after watch.”
Carrying on the festivities, 2020 marks 160 years since
the brand was founded in the Swiss Jura region, in 1860,
when innovation was already at its heart. The “face” of
this 160th anniversary is yet another emblem from the
brand’s history: the Carrera, introduced in 1963. The
first new release, in January, takes its cue directly from
the 2447S, a silver-dialled Carrera from 1964. Next up,
the Carrera Montreal borrows its unusual blue, yellow
and red colour palette from a 1972 Carrera. Alongside
these special editions, the regular collection is joined by
eight stylish chronographs with plenty of sporting appeal,
launched in July and September. The Carrera is TAG
Heuers top-selling collection and perfectly captures our
history of precision timekeeping, in particular for motor
racing,” comments Frédéric Arnault. When designing
these 2020 versions, teams worked hard to bring out
the essence of the Carrera and transpose Jack Heuers
vision to contemporary watches with a strong personal-
ity. The objective is for this new Carrera to become the
undisputed luxury chronograph on the market.”
Avant-garde Technology
This attachment to its landmark models reects efforts
made last year to refocus TAG Heuer on clear founda
-
tions and build a solid and coherent platform. Current
par tnerships in motor racing the sport in which Heuer
and, from 1985, TAG Heuer has always excelled - reflect
this, as Frédéric Arnault explains: We’ve entered into
an innovative partnership with Porsche and together
we’ve formed the TAG Heuer Porsche Formula E Team.
The team competes in the Formula E Championship of
which we are founding partner. Given the many values
we have in common with Porsche, we envisage extending
this collaboration over the coming months. At the same
time, we continue to support the Aston Martin Red Bull
Racing Formula 1 team, and are part of major dates in
the F1 calendar such as the Monaco Grand Prix.”
Putting a vintage label on TAG Heuer would, however,
be taking a narrow view. Innovation is hardwired into
the brand, as demonstrated by the invention, at the
TAG Heuer Institute, of the world’s rst carbon com
-
posite balance spring, mounted on a balance wheel
in an aluminium-based alloy. This avant-garde tech-
nology equips the Carrera H02 Tourbillon Nanograph.
Alongside groundbreaking developments in mechan-
ical movements, the brand is making strides in con-
nected technology with the presentation this year of a
third-generation connected watch, followed by a special
golf edition. Frédéric Arnault describes the TAG Heuer
Connected as the most stylish in its category. It reects
the brands pioneering spirit and attention paid both to
the watch’s technology and design. Naturally, we will
continue to invest in this area as we are buoyed by the
market.” From mechanical to connected, TAG Heuer’s
expertise covers 360°.
Eric Dumatin
TAG HEUER CONNECTED GOLF EDITION. COMBINING ADVANCED TECHNOL-
OGY WITH LONGSTANDING EXPERIENCE IN THE WORLD OF SPORTS, TAG
HEUER INT RODUCES THE GOLF EDITION, THE THIRD GENER AT ION OF ITS CON-
NECTED WATCH. THIS IS THE SECOND TIME THE BRAND HAS DEVELOPED A
WATCH SPECIF ICA LLY FOR THE GOLF COM M UNI T Y: TH E FI RST WAS IN 2019 WIT H
THE LAUNCH OF THE BEST-IN-CLASS TAG HEUER GOLF APP. DESIGNED AND
DEVELOPED ENTIRELY IN-HOUSE BY AN EXPERT TEAM LED BY TAG HEUER CEO
FRÉDÉRIC ARNAULT, THE TAG HEUER GOLF APP IS PACKED WITH FEATURES TO
HE LP MAST ER THE CO URS E, SU CH AS 3D MAPP I NG, HA Z ARD S DISTANCE, SHOT
TRACKING, SCORECARDS, PRO STATS AND THE NEW DRIVING ZONE FEATURE.
THIS DIGITAL CADDIE WON’T CARRY YOUR BAG BUT IT WILL HELP YOU TAKE
YOUR GAME TO THE NEXT LEVEL
. “PLAYING WITH A TAG HEUER CONNECTED IS
A TRUE GAME CHANGER THAT WILL GIVE ANY GOLFER AN IMMEDIATE COMPETI-
TIVE EDGE,” EXPLAINS FRÉDÉRIC ARNAULT, CEO OF TAG HEUER.
TAG HEUER CARRERA SPORT CHRONOGR APH E 44MM. AS PA RT OF ITS 16 0
th
ANNI -
VERSARY CELEBRATIONS, THROUGHOUT 2020 TAG HEUER IS INTRODUCING NEW
IT ERAT ION S OF ITS LEGEN DA RY CARRER A THAT AR E POWE RED BY THE HEUER 02
CA L IBRE — INC LUDI N G TH I S RETR O -ST YLED VERS I ON THAT PL AYS UP THE WATCH S
RACING PEDIGREE. THE MOVEMENT’S 168 COMPONENTS INCLUDE A COLUMN
WHEEL FOR SMOOTHER FUNCTION IN G AND A VERTICAL CLUTCH FOR IM PROVED
PRECISION. IT ALSO PROVIDES AN IMPRESSIVE 80-HOUR POWER RESERVE.
After marking 50 years of the
Monaco in 2019 and with the Carrera
spearheading celebrations for the 160th
anniversary of its founding, TAG Heuer
makes clear its attachment to motor
sports and mechanical innovation.
FRÉDÉRIC ARNAULT,
CEO TAG HEUER
FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 17
1
2
3
Watch Your Time is offering an augmented reality experi-
ence that makes your magazine the gateway to the digital
world. Thanks to the easy-to-use technology of the Print
Alive app, the talent of Marcel Van Luit, on the front cover,
comes alive. It enhances the information on the printed
page with videos, animated graphics, even content from
our partners’ sites.
Print Alive takes the Watch Your Time editorial message
further by inviting you to enter the fabulous world of lux-
ury timepieces. Step inside the manufacturing facilities
of the most prestigious brands, contemplate mechanical
complications in action, be a VIP guest at the major spor t-
ing and cultural events sponsored by the great names in
time measurement. It’s all possible, from the pages of
your magazine. Augmented reality is exactly that: digi-
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For a very long time, one of the pleasures of reading
was that we could picture our own image of the subject
in question. Our imagination could run free, but were we
getting an accurate, truthful view? Seeing for realwhat
an article has to say, what a photo is illustrating, is now
possible. Using a digital device, this experience does
more than tell you about what’s being discussed on the
page: it generates emotions, pride, and a true sense of
belonging to a world with which we feel such a strong
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We want you to become a knowledgeable member of
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AT THE CUTTING EDGE OF AUGMENTED REALITY TECHNOLOGY
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Print and digital are no
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Now you can browse
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that interest you.
THE ART OF FUSION
BIG BANG INTEGRAL
Boîtier avec bracelet intégré en King Gold 18K.
Mouvement manufacture chronographe UNICO.
BOUTIQUES
CANNES • COURCHEVEL
MONACO • PARIS • ST-TROPEZ
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Hublot_WatchYourTime_BBIntKG_560x380.indd 1
24.07.20 16:4524.07.20 16:45
THE ART OF FUSION
BIG BANG INTEGRAL
Boîtier avec bracelet intégré en King Gold 18K.
Mouvement manufacture chronographe UNICO.
BOUTIQUES
CANNES • COURCHEVEL
MONACO • PARIS • ST-TROPEZ
Hublot_WatchYourTime_BBIntKG_560x380.indd 1
Hublot_WatchYourTime_BBIntKG_560x380.indd 1
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24.07.20 16:4524.07.20 16:45
One thing we have learned from Chanel is to always
expect the unexpected, and perhaps nowhere more
than with its watches. Each is an accumulation of tiny
details, all carefully studied, that never fails to take fans
by surprise. The Code Coco watch is an excellent example
of how the brand cultivates this art of the unexpected.
Unveiled in November 2017, the concept behind this
wristwatch was to create an original piece of jewellery
that also gave the time on a dial that cross-references
the immediately recognisable clasp of the 2.55 handbag.
The project remained strictly under wraps right up until
the launch, which only added to the surprise and no
doubt emotion of the couture house’s numerous aficio-
nadas. The response to the Mademoiselle Privé Bouton
will likely be the same. It is another remarkable demon-
stration of the artistic crafts or métiers d’art that are so
much a part of Chanel — a brand that has banned the
use of exotic skins for its watch straps as part of its
commitment to ethical and sustainable practices.
The one that’s making the biggest impact in 2020 is,
however, the J12, and for a simple reason: the watch that
was hailed a twenty-first century icon almost as soon as it
was launched turns twenty this year. Chanel already piqued
our curiosity a year ago, when the J12 was given a subtle
revamp under the expert eye of Arnaud Chastaingt, Director
of Chanel’s Watch Creation Studio since 2013. Rather than
sweeping changes, Chastaingt introduced almost imper-
ceptible updates to the vast majority of design elements,
thus giving the J12 a completely new appearance without
altering its essence. The result, in the words of Frédéric
Grangié, President of Chanel Watches and Jewellery, is
“an impalpable but very real impression of lightness that is
both visible and invisible. Because the J12 can only ever
be itself, it had to evolve. Without changing!”.
Manufacture movements
The most obvious transformation came from within, namely
Calibre 12.1, a chronometer-grade movement, certified by
the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, that delivers
70 hours of power reserve. Winding is by a tungsten rotor
which Chanel’s Watch Creation Studio insisted be a perfect
circle: one of the signatures of a Chanel Fine Watch. As usual,
the brand caught everyone off-guard when it revealed that
the new calibre was manufactured by Kenissi, which also
supplies movements to Tudor, sister brand to Rolex. And
because Chanel swears by long-term collaborations, it went
on to announce it had taken a stake in Kenissi. Chanel had
already proved itself capable of developing and producing
high-quality movements at its own facilities, G&F Châtelain
(which also supplies the brands signature ceramics), as bril-
liantly demonstrated by the Haute Horlogerie Calibres 1, 2
and 3. This time, though, it was entering a new dimension.
Calibre 12.1 has given Chanel a robust, precise and
reliable base movement; a strategic advantage for any
watch brand. The J12 is one of our icons,” notes Frédéric
Grangié. The new J12, remarkably remodelled by Arnaud
Chastaingt, has been given an exceptionally positive
reception. We can truly say the back is as worthy of
attention as the front, as it is now possible to admire
the movement through a sapphire crystal. The J12 is in
a category of its own. Not only is it such an important
pillar for Chanel, it exists beyond the brand as an icon of
watchmaking. This reworking guarantees its long-term
future. A lot has happened since Chanel’s watchmaking
division was set up 33 years ago, from the point of view
of creations and integration, with Manufacture Chatelain,
as well as partnerships and stakeholdings, such as with
Romain Gauthier, F.P.Journe and Kenissi. This gives us
true legitimacy. Now Chanel can expand its technical
excellence, in particular with the new J12 and its new
movement.”
Marking this anniversary year are the J12 X-Ray, made
entirely from sapphire a world-rst with Calibre 3.1 for
the movement, and the J12 Paradoxe whose case fuses
black and white ceramic in a technical tour de force. Both
are stunning creations, but coming from Chanel, are we
really surprised?
Eric Dumatin
CHANEL J12 X-RAY. IN 2020 CHANEL CELEBRATES THE TWENTIETH ANNIVER-
SARY OF THE J12, A TIMEPIECE THAT WAS HAILED AS THE T WENTY-FIRST CENTU-
RYS FIRST ICONIC WATCH. LAST YEAR, AHEAD OF THIS MILESTONE, THE BRAND
INTRODUCED A SUBTLE REVAMP, MAKING ALMOST IMPERCEPTIBLE UPDATES
THAT GAVE THE J12 A NEW APPEARANCE WHILE PRESERVING ITS IDENTITY. THIS
J12 X-R AY IS A LIMITED EDITION OF 12, FITTED WITH A SPECIALLY SKELETONISED
VERSION OF THE CALIBRE 3.1 IN-HOUSE MOVEMENT. ENTIRELY TRANSPARENT,
TH E X-R AY IS CLOA KED IN SAP PHIR E FROM CAS E TO BR ACE LET TO DIAL . EVEN TH E
MAINPLATE, MINUTE TRACK BRIDGE AND THE BRIDGE FOR THE GEARTRAIN ARE
SAPPHIRE: A TECHNICAL TOUR DE FORCE AS WELL AS A WORLD-FIRST. ADDING
BRILLIANCE TO TRANSPARENCY ARE THE BAGUETTE DIAMONDS THAT GARNISH
THE BEZEL AND THE DIAL.
CHANEL J12 PARADOXE. THE PAR A DOXE COM BINES THE J12S SIG NAT URE BLACK
AND WHITE IN A SINGLE CERAMIC CASE. THE TWO PARTS OF DIFFERENT DIMEN-
SIONS ARE CUT, FUSED THEN ASSEMBLED ON A METAL FRAME, WHICH IS FITTED
WITH A SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL FOR THE CASEBACK. KEEPING THE BEAT IS CALIBRE
12.1, MANUFACTURED BY KENISSI FOR CHANEL.
Pioneer of time
Chanel’s J12 is twenty years young. After last year’s
subtle but significant transformation, the Parisian
house presents two stunning new iterations: one,
a world-first, entirely in sapphire, and one merging
black and white ceramic.
FRÉDÉRIC GRANGIÉ,
CEO, CHANEL
WATCHES & FINE JEWELLERY
* A la poursuite de demain / Chronographe de course original / Ne craquez pas sous la pression / Photographie retouchée
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20 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS
Pioneer of time
* A la poursuite de demain / Chronographe de course original / Ne craquez pas sous la pression / Photographie retouchée
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Dolce Vita
In the calm before the Covid-19 storm, LVMH’s watch
brands, led by Bvlgari, were able to showcase their newest
releases at the LVMH Watch Week, organised in Dubai
in January. “This proved to be a rather premonitory and
fortunate initiative as just a few days later, the coronavirus
was bringing the world to a standstill,” comments Jean-
Christophe Babin, Chief Executive of the brand which was
established in Rome in 1884. “Thanks to Watch Week,
as of January Bvlgari was able to cover around 60%
of its sales forecast for 2020. Despite the crisis, we’ve
worked hard to create the right conditions to come back
strongly. We want to be in a position to return to 2019’s
record level in 2021, thanks in particular to a number of
new watch and jewellery products.”
After the presentation in Dubai of the extraordinary Serpenti
Seduttori Tourbillon, whose BVL150 movement incorpo-
rates the smallest tourbillon currently on the market, the
Geneva Watch Days event, held end August, gave Bvlgari
yet another opportunity to show off its savoir-faire. We
unveiled three major new releases over the four days,
starting with our sixth world record in the Octo Finissimo
line. We also showed a new Gérald Genta watch which
marks the second stage in the relaunch of this legendary
brand, as well as an entirely new collection of laidback
men’s sport watches, geared towards the economic climate
and a young, informal clientele.”
Bvlgari will continue to astonish”
Bvlgari is a multi-talented brand, as Jean-Christophe
Babin confirms: We have a remarkably broad creative
spectrum. Bvlgari is not just active in the watch segment.
We are a global luxury brand. Jewellery-making, which
is our core signature, and watchmaking have much in
common with respect to the techniques and the crafts
they employ, hence why these two sectors work closely
together at Bvlgari, creating wonderful opportunities for
the brand. This is particularly true in the women’s watch
segment, although this doesn’t exclude men’s watches as
demonstrated by the recent Octo Roma Tourbillon with its
sapphire and malachite case. Rest assured that Bvlgari
will continue to astonish.”
Developments in the brand’s luxury hotel and resort port-
folio confirm this. The current offering of six destinations
in Milan, London, Dubai, Bali, Beijing and Shanghai will be
joined by new openings. Plans to expand to Paris, Rome,
Moscow and Tokyo have already been announced. Says
Jean-Christophe Babin, We will continue to develop the
Bvlgari Hotels & Resorts division where we see necessary,
in major cosmopolitan cities such as Los Angeles or in
the Maldives. Were not talking here about simply hotels:
these are immersive, exclusive experiences that provide
far more than hotel service, even five-star. Ultimately,
we aim to have around twenty properties, each offering
welcoming and refined Italian hospitality at exceptional
locations such as the Piazza Augusto Imperatore in
Rome, across from the Mausoleum of Augustus, the
first Roman emperor.
Watches remain central to the brand, whose first time
-
pieces were introduced in the 1920s. Originally heavily
jewelled pieces, from 1977 they became the expression
of a style that uses strong shapes to express vastly imag-
inative designs. We’re working on our agship lines,” says
Jean-Christophe Babin, starting with Serpenti and Lvcea
for women’s watches. For men, this obviously means the
Octo. Alongside these three collections, which form the
backbone of our watch offering, we present other lines
which are also performing extremely well, such as Diva
and Bvlgari. These various collections provide a solid
foundation for Bvlgari’s watch division, with the addition
of exceptional and often one-of-a-kind high jewellery
creations.”
Christophe Roulet
BVLGARI ALUMINIUM. THE BVLGARI ALUMINIUM 2020 REKINDLES THE FLAME OF
THE FIRST-GENERATION MODELS INTRODUCED IN 1998. IT SPEAKS A UNIVER-
SAL LANGUAGE THAT GOES BEYOND GENDER, AGE, TRENDS, ERAS OR SOCIAL
PROFILES. MORE THAN TWENTY YEARS HAVE PASSED AND THE COLLECTION IS
AS FRESH AS EVER. TWENTY YEARS AGO, THE BVLGARI ALUMINIUM WAS PART
OF THE MOST IMPORTANT MOMENTS OF AN ENTIRE GENERATION. NOW A NEW
GENERATION AWAITS.
BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO TOUR BILLON CHRONOGR APH SK ELETON AU TOMATIC.
FUELLED BY PASSION, DRIVEN BY EXCELLENCE, THE OCTO LINE CONTINUES TO
CH ALLENGE BOUNDARIE S WI TH A SIX TH WO RLD RECORD: THE OCTO FINISSI MO
TO U RBILLO N CHR O N OGR APH SK E LETO N AU TO M AT I C. TH E EXTRA-T H I N AU TOM AT I C
MOVEMENT AT ITS HEART INCORPORATES A MONOPUSHER CHRONOGRAPH AND
A TOURBILLON, YET MEASURES A MERE 3.50MM HIGH AND DELIVERS 50 HOURS
OF POWER RES ERVE. TH IS EXC EPTI ONA L CA LIBR E IS HOU SED INS IDE A TITANI U M
CASE, 7.40MM THICK. EVER SINCE ITS INTRODUCTION IN 2014, THE OCTO FINIS-
SIM O HA S SE T A NE W STANDAR D FO R TH INNESS WHIL E TU RNIN G HE A DS WITH ITS
ST RIKI NGLY BOLD DES IGN . THI S EXPER TISE IS REPE ATED IN BVLGA RIS WOMENS
WATCH COLLECTIONS: THE SERPENTI SEDUTTORI, INTRODUCED EARLIER THIS
YEAR, CONTAINS THE SMALLEST TOURBILLON ON THE MARKET.
Born as a jeweller, Bvlgari has since developed
its multiple creative talents in watches, then in
accessories, fragrances and luxury hotels. All with
the same enthusiasm and distinctly Italian flair.
JEAN-CHRISTOPHE
BABIN, CEO
BVLGARI
LMH_HQ • Visual: Arceau LHDLL • Magazine: Watch_your_Time 1 (FR) • Language: French • Issue: 24/09/2020
Doc size: 280 x 380 mm • Calitho #: 07-20-141739 • AOS #: HER_02096 • AD 20/07/2020
LE TEMPS, UN OBJET HERMÈS.
Arceau, Lheure de la lune
Le temps est dans la lune.
22 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS
LMH_HQ • Visual: Arceau LHDLL • Magazine: Watch_your_Time 1 (FR) • Language: French • Issue: 24/09/2020
Doc size: 280 x 380 mm • Calitho #: 07-20-141739 • AOS #: HER_02096 • AD 20/07/2020
LE TEMPS, UN OBJET HERMÈS.
Arceau, Lheure de la lune
Le temps est dans la lune.
Illustrator Marcel Van Luit @ADB Agency
The means by which we measure time have evolved at the demand of
science or in situations where lives are at risk. Astronomers were the first
to require clocks of greater precision. Stargazing was no longer a form of
divination but a science that called for instruments capable of providing
measurements to the nearest second, if astronomers were to produce
models of the cosmos and calculate the relative position of the celestial
bodies within the range of their telescopes. This was their only means of
detecting, quantifying and interpreting any change in the movement of a
given star or planet.
Seafaring explorers would also come to appreciate the need for accurate
time measurement. In 1714 the British Parliament passed the Longitude
Act which offered a prize of £20,000 a colossal amount for such
person or persons as shall discover the longitude at sea”. Conditions stipu-
lated that the calculation should be accurate to half a degree (around thir ty
nautical miles) after forty days at sea. Time was the crux of the matter. If a
sailor could observe that it was solar noon and know the time at the port
from which the ship had set sail, he could then convert this time difference
into degrees of angle and plot the ship’s position.
Simple enough… provided the vessel carried a reliable clock, capable
of keeping accurate time on a pitching and rolling ship. Watchmaking’s
greatest minds set about the task of building such a device but the
solution was ultimately found, in 1759, by a carpenter and self-taught
clockmaker, John Harrison. His H4 — which could be described as the
first ever precision pocket watch lost just ve seconds a month and
would change the face of the world. Others would make ample use of
Harrison’s findings to build more of these “marine chronometers” that
took Britain’s Royal Navy towards new colonial territories and opened
up vast opportunities for trade.
Explorers setting sail for distant lands also used these precision timekeep-
ers that were protected from dust, rain, sea spray and vibrations in solid
mahogany cases. Come the 1900s, the pocket watch and later the wrist-
watch were vital equipment for any expedition. Whether scaling mountains,
crossing deserts or cutting a path through tropical forest, these intrepid
explorers could count on accuracy to the second. Their watches were
robust, ideally waterproof and if possible, offered an additional function.
For example, a 24-hour hand can be used to find north and south; spele-
ologists can use it to keep track of day and night.
A matter
A matter
of survival
of survival
--
o
-------
Peter Braun
PASHA DE CARTIER. THE PASHA DE CARTIER WATCH, SHOWN HERE IN THE SKELETONISED VERSION,
IS A VISUAL STATEMENT: THAT OF A SQUARE MINUTE TRACK INSIDE A ROUND CASE AND DIAL. THE DESIGN
IS ALSO IN THE DETAIL OF A "CHAINED" CROWN, PROTECTED BY A REMOVABLE CROWN COVER. THIS
IS ALSO A WATCH WITH MULTIPLE POSSIBILITIES FOR PERSONALISATION: ENGRAVED INITIALS CAN BE
SECRETLY INSCRIBED UNDER THE CROWN COVER; THE QUICKSWITCH SYSTEM, CAMOUFLAGED IN
THE CASE BACK, CHANGES STRAPS WITH A SINGLE PUSH; FOR METAL BRACELETS, THE PATENTED
SMARTLINK SYSTEM ADJUSTS FOR THE PERFECT FIT IN MERE SECONDS. THE MOVEMENT IS
THE 9624 MC SKELETON AUTOMATIC CALIBRE WITH 48 HOURS OF POWER RESERVE.
Accurate time measurement
hasn’t always been as readily
available as it is today,
including in environments
at sea, underwater or
in the sky where every
second really does count.
I think the prime reason for existence,
for living in this world, is discovery.
James Dean ( 1931 1955 )
>
EXPLORATION WATCH YOUR TIME 25
V VIIVI
IIIIIIIIII
26 WATCH YOUR TIME EXPLORATION
I · ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL GMT-MASTER II. DESIGNED
TO SHOW THE TIME IN TWO DIFFERENT TIME ZONES
SIMULTANEOUSLY, TH E GM T- M AST ER, LAU NCHE D IN 1955 ,
WAS ORI G INA LLY DE V ELOPED AS A NAVIG ATIO N IN STRU-
MENT FOR FREQUENT FLYERS CRISS-CROSSING THE
GLOBE. HEIR TO THE ORIGINAL MODEL, THE GMT-MAS-
TER II WAS UNVEILED IN 1982, WITH A NEW MOVEMENT
ENSURING EASE OF USE.
II · ULYSSE NARDIN MARINE TOURBILLON BLUE. ULYSS E
NARDIN’S TOURBILLON CHRONOMETERS ORIGINATE
IN THE LATE NINETEENTH CENTURY, WHEN THE TOUR-
BILLON’S PRIMARY FUNCTION WAS TO MAKE UP FOR
ERRORS IN RATE CAUSED BY GRAVITATIONAL PULL.
THE MARINE TOURBILLON CARRIES ON THIS TRADI-
TION. THE MOVEMENT IS THE IN-HOUSE UN-128 FLYING
TOURBILLON.
III · HUBLOT AER OFUSION CH RONOGRAPH UEFA CHAM -
PIONS LEAGUE. HUBLOT, AS UEFA’S OFFICIAL WATCH
PARTNER, PRESENTS THIS 100-PIECE LIMITED EDITION
IN BLUE CERAMIC. ONE OF ITS MOST STRIKING FEA-
TURES IS THE THREE-DIMENSIONAL DIAL. THE BLACK-
ENED BRIDGES OF THE HUB1155 SK ELETON MOVEMENT
ALSO SERVE AS A PLATFORM FOR THE TRANSPARENT
SAPPHIRE DIAL.
IIII · PANERAI LUMINOR MARINA FIBRATECH™. THIS
MODEL IN FIBRATECH™ CELEBRATES THE 70TH ANNIVER-
SARY OF THE PATENT FOR LUMINOR, A TRITIUM-BASED,
LU M I NOU S SU B STA N CE DE V ELOPED BY PANE R A I . FI B R AT-
ECH™ IS AN ECO-SUSTAINABLE MATERIAL BORROWED
FROM THE AEROSPACE INDUSTRY THAT IS MADE WITH
FI B RES PRODU CED FR OM THE FUSI ON OF BA SA LT ROCK
AND MINERAL ADDITIVES.
V · BAUME & MERCIER CLASSIMA CHRONOGRAPH COM-
PLETE CALENDAR AUTOMATIC. THIS NEW ADDITION TO
THE CLASSIMA COLLECTION COMBINES TWO USEFUL
COMPLICATIONS: A CHRONOGRAPH WITH 60-SECOND,
30 - M INU TE AND 12- HOUR COUNTER S, AND A TR I PLE CA L-
EN DA R SH OWING DAY AND MO NTH IN APER TUR ES, DATE
BY HAND, A 24-HOUR INDICATION AND MOON PHASES.
VI · TAG HEUER FORMULA 1 ASTON MARTIN RED BULL
RACING SPECIAL EDITION. GIVING SHAPE TO TAG
HEUER’S ONGOING ALLIANCE WITH ASTON MARTIN
RED BU LL RACIN G IS TH I S ULTRA-RO BUS T 43 MM CHRO N -
OGRAPH THAT TAKES ITS CUE FROM THE NEW ASTON
MARTIN RED BULL RACING FORMULA 1 CAR. THE BLUE
OF THE CAR IS FOUND ON THE WATCHS DIAL AND ALU-
MINIUM FIXED BEZEL.
VII · GIRARD-PERREGAUX LAUREATO ABSOLU TE WW.TC.
THIS ABSOLUTE WW.TC WORLDTIMER SWAPS THE LAU -
REATO’S CLASSIC LINES FOR A SPORTING AESTHETIC.
THE OCTAGONAL BEZEL SITS ABOVE A BROADER CASE
MIDDLE WITH TAUTER LINES. SO AS TO ACCENTUATE
THIS NEW DESIGN, THE CASE (WHICH IS WATER-RE-
SISTANT TO 300 METRES) IS CUT FROM BLACK PVD-
TREATED TITANIUM.
Watchmakers take to the sky
The rst pilot’s watch had only one special feature and that was a leather strap.
Pilots navigated by sight, relying on landmarks such as railway lines or roads every
few miles. If fog, rain or snow deprived them of a clear view of the land below, planes
remained grounded. In the 1920s and 30s the idea that planes could become a viable
means of transportation prompted a series of sensational long-distance flights that
put immense strain on both aircraft and pilot. Passenger seats were stripped and
replaced by additional fuel tanks, leaving these brave adventurers to y for hours,
sometimes days, above uninhabited regions and endless expanses of ocean with
no crew to rely on and only themselves for company.
These pilots worked out their position much the same way as the seafarers and
explorers of centuries earlier, using time at the point of take-off, a sextant and a
nautical almanac. Except the methods that had proved their worth on ships advanc-
ing at the rate of a few knots were hardly suited to planes that could travel at speeds
approaching 300 mph. Pilots had to perform the many calculations required to fix
position incredibly quickly and while still focusing on the business of actually flying
the plane. Well aware of the difficulties this implied, U.S. Navy Lieutenant Commander
Philip Van Horn Weems invented a rotating and lockable bezel inscribed with a
60-seconds scale that could be used to synchronise a wristwatch to a radio time
signal without stopping the movement.
After making the first solo flight across the Atlantic, from New York to Paris in
33 hours, Charles A. Lindberg set about improving Weems’ system, and in 1931
the hour angle watch gave pilots a means of calculating longitude in degrees and
minutes of arc. Boasting an impressive 47.5mm diameter, Lindbergh’s watch was
rapidly adopted by other aviators, who strapped it on top of their thick ying jacket or
around the thigh. As technology progressed, rst with radar then the Global Positioning
System (GPS), manual navigational aids were no longer the vital instruments they
had once been. How many people today remember the role these watches played
in bringing pilots safely to land?
Time under the sea
Jacques-Yves Cousteau may have declared that more than 90% of the planet’s
surface was underwater, the first excursions beneath the seas were to military rather
than scientific ends, using the murky blackness to operate under cover. In 1936 the
Royal Italian Navy commissioned Guido Panerai a manufacturer in Florence of
torpedo launchers, sighting devices, depth gauges, compasses and pocket lamps for
underwater use — to produce a fully waterproof wristwatch for its nascent combat
divers unit. An important specification of this watch was to be legible in complete
darkness. This high visibility, still one of the distinguishing features of a Panerai
watch, originally came from Radiomir, a luminescent paint that Panerai patented in
1914, made from zinc sulphate and radium bromide.
Rolex in Switzerland became the first brand to equip one of its watches, the Turn-
O-Graph, with a rotating bezel for the calculation of dive times, in 1953. It was
A
I IIIIIIIII
V VIIVI
28 WATCH YOUR TIME EXPLORATION
I · PATEK PHILIPPE ALARM TRAVEL TIME REF 5520P.
PATEK PHILIPPE PRESENTS A NEW AUTOMATIC-WINDING
GRANDE COMPLICATION THAT COMBINES ITS EXCLUSIVE
DUAL TIME ZO NE TR AVEL TIME SYSTEM FEAT URIN G TWO
CENTRAL HOUR HANDS (ONE SOLID AND ONE SKELE-
TONI SED) WITH A 24-HO UR AL ARM MEC HANI SM SOUN D-
ING A CLASSIC HAMMER AND GONG STRIKE.
II · BLANCPAIN AIR COMMAND. WHILE NO-ONE KNOWS
THE EXACT CIRCUMSTANCES SURROUNDING THE CRE-
ATION OF THIS CHRONOGRAPH, DEVELOPED IN THE
19 50S FOR U. S. AI R FO RCE PILOTS, IT S A FACT THAT VERY
FEW WERE PRODUCED, MAKING THIS A UNICORN FOR
COLLECTORS. THIS 500-PIECE LIMITED EDITION STAYS
TR UE TO THE ORIGI NAL FOR MA XIM U M VI NTAGE APPE A L .
III · JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER CONTROL CHRONO-
GRAPH CALENDAR. INTRODUCED IN 1992, THE MASTER
CONTROL TAKES ITS NAME FROM THE 1000 HOURS
CONTROL CERTIFICATION. THE COLLECTION RETURNS
TO TH E SP OTL IGH T, INCLUDI NG WI TH THIS MODEL THAT
FE ATURES A BI- COMPAX CHRONO, A TRIPLE CALENDAR
AND MOON PHASES. A FIRST FOR JAEGER-LECOULTRE.
IIII · AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE SELF-
WINDING CHRONOGRAPH. THE ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE
WAS DESTINED FOR ADVENTURE RIGHT FROM ITS
LAUNCH IN 1993, AND THIS 44MM CHRONO IN KHAKI IS
NO EXCEP TION . STAND OUT FE ATURES ARE THE CERAMI C
BE Z EL, PUS HER S AN D SC REW-LOC K ED CROWN , A MEGA
TAP I SSE R IE DI A L , ST URDY RUBBE R ST R A PS, INCLUDING A
CA M OUFL AGE OP TION , AN D A 100-METR E DE P TH RATI N G .
V · LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR WORLD TIME RUNWAY.
TH E TA M BOURS SPO RTY VI BE MEETS A ST YLISH WORL D
TIME FUNCTION INSIDE A 46MM BI-METAL CASE IN PINK
GOLD AND BLACK PVD-TREATED STEEL. THE DIAL, DIS-
TINGUISHED BY A NEW ARCHITECTURE AND DESIGN
CODES, IS CRAFTED IN-HOUSE BY LOUIS VUITTON’S
VIRTUOSO DIAL-MAKERS.
VI · TISSOT HERITAGE NAVIGATOR CHRONO AUTO 1973.
A YEAR AFTER THE RUNAWAY SUCCESS OF THE
FIRST-GENERATION TISSOT HERITAGE NAVIGATOR
CHRONO AUTO 1973, THE BRAND RETURNS WITH A
SECOND SERIES OF THIS TONNEAU-SHAPED CHRONO.
INNOVATORS BY TR ADIT ION, TIS SOT IS LAUNCH ING THIS
EYE-CATCHIN G TI M EPI EC E AS PART OF ITS PAR TNERSH I P
WITH THE KESSEL CLASSICS RACING TEAM.
VII · LONGINES LEGEND DIVER WATCH. LONGINES IS
ALWAYS HAPPY TO REVISIT THE WATCHES THAT HAVE
HELPED FORGE ITS RENOWN. THIS LONGINES LEGEND
DIVER WATCH REIMAGINES A 1960S MODEL. ALL THE
WHI LE CONSERVING THE ER A’S T YPICAL STYLE CODES
AN D DE SIG N EL EMENTS , TH IS CONTEMPO R ARY ED ITIO N
BENEFITS FROM LONGINE’S EXPERTISE TO GUARANTEE
LEGIBILITY, WATER-RESISTANCE AND PRACTICALITY.
followed a year later by the Submariner. Certified water-resistant to 100 metres,
the Submariner would be the inspiration for every modern dive watch. Also around
this time, Captain Robert “Bob” Maloubier and First Lieutenant Claude Riffaud
of the French Navy’s elite unit of commando frogmen were given the mission
to develop a watch that divers could use to monitor the time remaining before
their air supply ran out. Underwater breathing apparatus was still in its early
stages and few divers ventured beneath the sea with this new system, meaning
scant opportunity to test instruments for reliability at a depth of 100 metres.
It would be a Swiss maker, Blancpain, that provided the French with a watch that
met with specifications. Named the Fifty Fathoms after its depth rating (around
91 metres), it was originally for military issue only, unlike the Rolex Submariner.
Earth’s oceans revealed themselves to be a rich source of food and raw materi-
als, in particular oil deposits. After military frogmen, saturation divers employed
by companies such as Comex, Ocean Systems and Oceaneering, which provided
deep-sea diving services, often for oil companies, were next to make use of pro-
fessional dive watches.
Time in space
Much as the first astronauts and cosmonauts were recruited among fighter pilots, the
first space missions sourced their equipment among everyday objects. Yuri Gagarin
orbited Earth with an ordinary military-issue watch strapped to his wrist. When
NASA wanted a watch for its piloted missions, it sent an employee to a retailer’s in
downtown Houston to purchase a selection of chronographs for testing. No-one
knew exactly what the astronauts’ equipment would have to endure, and so NASA
imposed rigorous tests on all the watches before finally choosing the robust Omega
Speedmaster, a manually-wound chronograph.
The importance of a rugged, reliable, highly precise mechanical watch even in the
high-tech environment of a spacecraft was made abundantly clear when the Apollo
13 mission in 1970 came close to disaster. After an electrical failure rendered the
navigational computers inoperative, the astronauts had to manually calculate the
precise time to re the engine boost and re-enter Earth’s atmosphere at the right
angle. They did so using their Omega Speedmaster chronograph. This year marks
the 50
th
anniversary of an event Omega is unlikely to forget.
ˇ
FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 29
Stupendous 70
One number stands
out at Panerai this year,
and that number is 70.
For the 70th anniversary
of Luminor. And for the
70-year warranty that
now accompanies a
selection of its new watches.
The oceans and the fascination they hold for those ghting
to preserve them; innovation and breakthrough materials;
sustainable development and the determination to protect
our planet: the frisson of adventure… it takes a special
kind of magic for a single watch brand to tick so many
boxes. Panerai is one of them. At the wheel is Jean-Marc
Pontroué, appointed two years ago to head the brand
whose Italian origins are as strong as its Swiss-powered
expertise. This experienced marathon runner has imposed
a strong and steady pace on the brand that continues to
surprise, as much with its products as for its commitment
to sustainability.
To many, Panerai could have seemed stuck in its ways,
fervently devoted to preserving the original traits of
its Luminor and Radiomir collections. This heritage,
Jean-Marc Pontroué believes, is essential to the brand’s
identity but has to be seen as looking forward, not back.
Driving the point home, one of the first things he did in
his new role was to give a fresh face to the Submersible
a range of robust dive watches that made such a
strong impression when introduced in 2019 they are
now the brands third pillar. Keeping up the momentum,
Pontrowent on to announce a partnership with Luna
Rossa, one of the challengers for the 36th America’s
Cup whose nal will be raced in Auckland, New Zealand,
in 2021. The team’s official watch is the Luminor Luna
Rossa GMT in titanium; its dial is covered with a thin
layer of the same high-tech sail fabric used on Luna
Rossa’s AC75 monohull a reminder that innovation
is ingrained in the brand.
“Successful brands are the ones that give their products sub-
stance,” says Jean-Marc Pontroué. At Panerai, this quest
begins at its Laboratorio di Idee” R&D division, where a
fifteen-strong team works full-time to develop movements
and materials that will further boost the properties that
are the added value of a Panerai watch: lightness, shock-
resistance, water-resistance, resistance to temperature
changes, and reliability. This year, the brand is showing
off the results of this strategy with the introduction of
cutting-edge materials such as 3D-printed DMLS (Direct
Metal Laser Sintering) titanium, Fibratech™, obtained from
natural and eco-sustainable fibres, and Carbotech™, which
is a carbon-polymer composite. The logical though no less
extraordinary conclusion is that a selection of Luminor
Marina watches made from these materials are sold with
an unprecedented 70-year warranty.
Eco-conscious
Its no coincidence that Panerai singled out the Luminor to
showcase these latest innovations: 2020 marks 70 years
since the invention of Luminor, a tritium-based self-lu-
minous substance. To celebrate this milestone in its
history, Panerai has unveiled boutique editions of the
three Luminor Marina watches made from the afore-
mentioned futuristic materials, and their glow-in-the-
dark properties are impossible to ignore. Whereas lume
would normally be applied only to the hands and hour
markers, in this instance new- generation “X1” Super-
LumiNovaextends to the crown guard, the flange, even
the stitching on the strap. Formulated to glow brighter
and for longer, its impact is reinforced by the various
cases’ stealth colours.
Ever since Jean-Marc Pontroué took over at the helm,
Panerai has also been nding ways to create a buzz around
its watches. This includes coupling some limited editions
with a once-in-a-lifetime experience that a few lucky cus-
tomers get to share with some of the greatest contemporary
explorers. Foremost among them is extreme adventurer
Mike Horn, chosen not just for his courage and determi-
nation but also for the environmental causes he defends.
Panerai has dedicated a limited-edition Submersible to
him. Its case is made from EcoPangaea™, a high-tech
steel that uses metal repur.posed from the drive shaft of
Horn’s sailing ship. “We’ve succeeded in making a watch
that’s 40% recycled material,” notes Jean-Marc Pontroué.
The aim is to reach 100% within the next year.” A new
adventure begins for Panerai.
Eric Dumatin
PANERAI LUMINOR LUNA ROSSA GMT. PANERA IS NEW RELEASES FOR 2020 ARE
AT THE CUTTING EDGE OF MATERIALS SCIENCE, THE GUARANTEE OF EXCEP-
TIONAL RESILIENCE AND PERFORMANCE. THIS LUMINOR IS THE OFFICIAL WATCH
OF LUNA ROSSA, CHALLENGER OF RECORD FOR THE 36
th
AMERICA’S CUP. THE
TITA NIUM CASE ENCLOS ES A DI AL COVERED WITH A THIN L AYER OF THE TECHNI-
CAL SAIL CLOTH USED ON THE TEAMS AC75 MONOHULL.
PANERAI LUMINOR MARINA TITANIO DMLS 44MM. SEVENTY YEARS AFTER THE
INTRODUCTION OF LUMINOR—THE TRITIUM-BASED SELF-LUMINOUS SUBSTANCE
THAT GAVE ITS NAME TO THE BRAND’S ICONIC LINE—, PANERAI RELEASES AN
INNOVATIVE NEW MODEL: THE LUMINOR MARINA 44MM (PAM01117) WHICH
COMES WITH A 70-YEAR WARRANTY. NEW-GENERATION SUPER-LUMINOVA X1
ON THE MARKERS AND NUMERALS GLOWS BRIGHTER AND FOR LONGER. THE
WATCH OWES ITS ASTONISHINGLY LIGHT WEIGHT (100 GRAMS INCLUDING
THE STRAP) AND EXCELLENT RESILIENCE TO ITS TITANIUM CASE. THIS IS
PRODUCED USING DIRECT METAL LASER SINTERING (DMLS), A FUTURISTIC
3D PRINTING PROCESS IN WHICH TITANIUM POWDER, SINTERED BY A HIGH
POWER FIBRE OPTIC LASER, TAKES A SOLID SHAPE THAT GROWS 30 MICRONS
(0.03 MM) AT A TIME.
JEAN-MARC PONTROUÉ,
CEO PANERAI
MIKE HORN,
AMBASSADOR
OF PANERAI
10.10am on a NYC rooop.
N 40° 45’ 31’’ W 73° 58’ 43’’.
Starting at EUR 44’000.
10.10am on a NYC rooop.
N 40° 45’ 31’’ W 73° 58’ 43’’.
Starting at EUR 44’000.
Heritage and
innovation
David Chaumet wants to get one thing straight: the brand
he’s headed since April 2019 (after eleven years at Roger
Dubuis) is not surng the seemingly unstoppable trend for
vintage-inspired watches. Established in 1830 by brothers
Louis-Victor and Célestin Baume as a comptoir or trading
office in the Swiss Jura, Baume & Mercier’s 190-year
history goes far deeper, never straying from the brand’s
ethos to “accept only perfection, only manufacture watches
of the highest quality.
It’s a principle David Chaumet has taken to heart: Fashion
is one thing,” he says, “heritage is something else entirely,
and it’s very important for Baume & Mercier. We are one
of the ten oldest watch brands in Switzerland in continu-
ous operation. The Hamptons we are launching this year
reflect the many years of history behind the brand, and
we shall continue to introduce more historic content to our
watches in the future, while never losing sight of the fact
that Baume & Mercier is a perfect balance of heritage
and innovation.”
One of the brand’s most talked-about innovations
came two years ago, when it took the wraps off its first
in-house movement. Dubbed the Baumatic, this new-
generation calibre maintains stable precision through-
out its five days of power reserve, is unaffected by the
magnetic elds that are a part of daily life, and will run
for ve years between services. It also benefits from
the latest developments in movement technology and
has earned chronometer-grade certification from the
Contle Ofciel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), the
country’s official chronometer testing body. Better still,
the Baumatic was designed from the outset as a base
movement, able to accommodate additional modules
and thus paving the way for subsequent versions with
complications.
A dynamic brand
This is precisely what the brand is offering this year, with
two exciting new introductions to the Clifton line, which
puts the Baumatic movement at its centre. One is a highly
attractive day-date and moon-phase model in pink gold
or steel, while the second, in steel, offers moon-phase
and date indications. They are, says the brand, illustra-
tions of the “passion and enthusiasm that drives Baume
& Mercier, while reinforcing the substance of this clas-
sically elegant collection.” Completing the line-up is a
Clifton Baumatic date, certified by the COSC, in steel,
pink gold, or two-tone steel and pink gold. All three
versions are mounted on interchangeable straps and
provide strong additions to a range that makes good the
brand’s philosophy to produce quality, affordable time-
pieces; a gateway to luxury.
The second mainstay this year is the Hampton, which
transposes the sculptural lines and symmetry of the Art
Deco movement to its rectangular case. The 2020 new
releases come in polished steel, in three sizes. The small
versions, some with a smattering of diamonds, are fitted
with a quartz movement. For the medium and large sizes,
the brand has preferred a mechanical automatic movement,
visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. Again, they
are proposed with an interchangeable steel bracelet or
leather strap, the latter in an impressive range of vibrant
colours. However, the highlight of the collection has to be
the Hampton automatic with large date, dual time zone
and day/night indicator a reminder that form watches
account for some of Baume & Mercier’s finest hours — a
brand almost 200 years young! Eric Dumatin
BAUME & MERCIER HAMPTON QUARTZ. THE HAM P TO N WATCH TRAN SPOSES THE
SCULPTURAL LINES AND SYMMETRY OF ART DECO TO ITS RECTANGULAR CASE.
IT S PU RE FORMS COM B INE WIT H PE RFECT LY BAL A NCE D PROPO RTI ONS TO BR I NG
A SUBTLE FLUIDITY AND SOFTNESS, AND OFFER EASY READING OF THE TIME.
BAUME & MERCIER CLIFTON BAUMATIC DAY-DATE MOONPHASE. POWERED BY
THE BAUMATIC MOVEMENT, THIS LATEST ITERATION OF THE CLIFTON FEATURES
DAY AND DAT E IN DICATI ONS BY HA NDS , AS WE LL AS A MOON -PH ASE DIS PLAY AT 6
OCLOC K . TH I S IS TH E SECON D CO MPLI CAT ION TO JO IN THE CL IFTON LINE, AFTER
TH E PE RPE T UA L CALE NDAR. THE 42 MM STEEL CASE WIT H SATIN - POLISHED DO U-
BLE-BEVELLED EDGES PAIRS BEAUTIFULLY WITH THE GRADIENT GREY DIAL. TO
RI NG THE CHANG ES , THE BLUE AL LIGATOR STRAP IS EASI LY SWAPP ED WITHOUT
ANY SPECIAL TOOLS.
BAUMATIC BM14 CALIBRE. BAUME & MERCIER MADE A STRONG MOVE IN 2018
WH EN IT PRE SEN TED TH E BAUMAT IC, IT S FIR ST IN-HO USE MOVEM ENT WHIC H MAI N -
TA I NS STA B LE PRECIS ION THR OUGHOUT ITS FIVE DAYS OF POW ER RES ERVE AN D
IS UNAFFECT ED BY MAG NETI C FIELDS. TH IS NE X T-G ENE R ATION CALIB RE, WHIC H
HAS COSC CHRONOMETER CERTIFICATION, WAS DESIGNED AS A WORKHORSE
MOVEMENT, READY TO ACCOMMODATE ADDITIONAL MODULES, AS ON THE DAY-
DATE MOONPHASE VERSION.
Clifton and Hampton
are front and centre at
Baume & Mercier, a brand
dedicated to making quality
watches that open the door
to luxury.
DAVID CHAUMET,
CEO, BAUME & MERCIER
32 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS
For Hans Wilsdorf, the
world was a living laboratory.
During the 1930s, the founder
of Rolex used the world as
a testing ground. The explorers
who ventured into the unknown
subjected Wilsdorfs watches
to extreme conditions in the most
inhospitable regions of the globe.
As exploration for the sake
of discovery has given way to
expeditions intended to highlight
the fragility of ecosystems and
the importance of preserving
the natural world, Rolex has
continued to support explorers
on their new mission to make
this a Perpetual Planet.
In 1931 Rolex launched a revolutionary new watch: The Oyster
Perpetual. “Oyster” because of its hermetically sealed case
that protects the movement, as proven four years earlier
by a young English woman, Mercedes Gleitze, who carried
an Oyster throughout her cross-Channel swim. Perpetual”
because of its mechanism, introduced by Rolex in 1931, that
derives an (almost) perpetual supply of energy from the move-
ments of the wrist. The combination of the two gave rise to
the first ever water-resistant automatic wristwatch with a rotor
that turns through a full 360° a system that proved so effi-
cient it is now the basis for every modern automatic watch.
Almost a century later, the Perpetual movement has become
a symbol of reliability and continuity, a spirit that inspires
Rolex in all its endeavours. This includes the extensive means
the brand invests in environmental preservation through its
Perpetual Planet campaign, launched in 2019.
Perpetual Planet
34 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS
From exploration to preservation
Rolex’s commitment to a Perpetual Planet originated at the
same time as the Oyster Perpetual, in the 1930s, when Hans
Wilsdorf would equip adventurers and explorers with Rolex
watches for them to test in the most extreme conditions,
effectively transforming the world into a living laboratory
that would confirm the reliability and ruggedness of Rolex
watches. This was a new age of adventure and who better
to put the watches through their paces than these explorers
who travelled to the ends of the earth, braving every environ-
ment and defying the elements from the highest summit to
the deepest abyss, from searing heat to icy cold.
Rolex has supported numerous expeditions, including some of
the twentieth century’s groundbreaking explorations. These
can be human endeavours but also scientific missions to
collect information with multiple applications.
For example, the British crew of the first expedition to fly
over Mount Everest, in 1933, wore Oyster watches. Twenty
years later, in 1953, Rolex was part of the historic climb that
saw Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay become the rst
people to conquer the world’s tallest summit.
From the highest peaks to the deepest oceans: in 1960 a
prototype Oyster descended into the Mariana Trench, to a
record depth of 10,916 metres. It was strapped to the hull of
the Trieste bathyscaphe, piloted by Jacques Piccard and Don
Walsh. It surfaced in perfect working order, despite the huge
pressure sustained during the descent. Beyond the exploit it
represented in watchmaking terms, the dive was of immense
scientific value as it revealed the existence of unsuspected
marine life and, in a pre-ecology age, created awareness of
the fragility of these unexplored biotopes.
Explorers are first to set eyes on some of the planet’s unknown
and so far undisturbed natural wonders; just as importantly,
they alert us to the dangers that threaten these environments
as well as the communities who live there.
One by one, expeditions have shown how vulnerable an eco-
system can be. At a time of growing concern over the conse-
quences human development can have on the environment,
exploration has a major role in protecting the natural world. This
is the spirit behind Rolex’s commitment to a Perpetual Planet
.
A long-term commitment
There is nothing incidental about Rolex’s activities to support
environmental preservation. Profoundly linked to the brands
history and the pioneering spirit of its founder, it has spanned
the decades and takes multiple innovative forms, from sup-
porting explorers to the Rolex Awards for Enterprise, the work
of Rolex Testimonees and long-term partnerships.
Rolex lends support to numerous scientific expeditions and
pro-environmental explorations that can provide effective
solutions to protect and preserve the planet for the long term.
The Perpetual Planet initiative is remarkable for its consist-
ency, scale and long-term vision. The main elements of the
campaign too vast to describe in detail here are sum-
marised below.
————————
Sonam Wangchuck, 2016 laureate of the Rolex
Awards for Enterprise Ladakh, India
Ice stupas provide water to irrigate thousands of trees.
© Rolex/Stefan Walter
Perpetual Planet
FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 35
1 2
3 4
36 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS
Rolex Awards for Enterprise
Since 1976 the Rolex Awards for Enterprise have been pre-
sented to 150 individuals from all backgrounds (out of the
34,000 people from 191 countries who have applied) for
in-the-field projects, whether in their early or advanced stages,
which advance human knowledge, protect cultural heritage
or help preserve natural habitats and species. Through the
Awards, Rolex has contributed to the preservation of 17 eco-
systems that are crucial for biodiversity and for the human
communities that depend on them. It has also supported
action to protect 25 endangered species, from the Amur tiger
to the great whale shark just a few examples among many.
The 5 laureates of the
2019 Rolex Awards for Enterprise
João Campos-Silva — Brazil ( 1 )
The largest scaled freshwater fish in the world the giant ara-
paima is threatened with extinction. Fisheries ecologist João
Campos-Silva works closely with local associations and fishing
leaders to save the arapaima and, with it, the livelihoods, food
supply and culture of the indigenous communities who depend on
the Amazon’s rivers for survival.
Grégoire Courtine — France ( 2 )
Throughout human history, a serious spine injury has meant perma-
nent loss of the ability to walk. Now, in an advance that would have
seemed miraculous until very recently, a French medical scientist
based in Switzerland is helping paralysed patients to walk again.
Brian Gitta — Uganda
Each year around 220 million people worldwide contract malaria
and almost half a million mostly children die from it. If Ugandan
IT specialist Brian Gitta succeeds in delivering his new technology,
those numbers will fall. The key to successfully treating malaria is
fast diagnosis. Gitta and his team have developed a portable elec-
tronic device that gives a reliable reading in less than two minutes,
without drawing blood.
Krithi Karanth — India ( 3 )
As world population surges towards eight billion, conflicts bet ween
people and the planet’s dwindling wildlife over food, resources and
space for living are multiplying. Conservationist Krithi Karanth is
proving that solutions to this problem exist. She has, for example,
set up a toll-free number which half a million people living in 600 vil-
lages in India can call to get help filing for compensation for losses
suffered as a result of human-wildlife conflict.
Miranda Wang — Canada ( 4 )
Ever y year the world churns out 340 million tonnes of plastic, much
of which ends up choking landfills, rivers and oceans, polluting
the atmosphere, soil and water. Chinese-Canadian tech entrepre-
neur Miranda Wang has come up with a better idea for what to do
with the worlds largest waste headache turn it into wealth using
unique chemical recycling technology developed by her company
BioCellection.
Oceans
The ocean constitutes more than 70% of the planets surface.
These complex, fragile and endangered biotopes are some
of the most imperfectly understood environments, yet of vital
importance to life. Rolex lends its support to multiple initia-
tives and research that will advance our understanding of the
oceans and enable more effective solutions to protect them.
Sylvia Earle’s Mission Blue — Hope Spots ( 5 )
Marine biologist Sylvia Earle is a pioneer of underwater explora-
tion and a committed advocate of ocean conser vation. She became
a Rolex Testimonee in 1982. In 2010 she initiated Mission Blue to
create Hope Spots protected areas that are vital to the survival
of numerous communities. The number of these Hope Spots has
increased from 50 in 2014 to 112, thanks in particular to support
from Rolex. Mission Blue has set itself the ambitious goal to protect
30% of the worlds oceans by 2030. Currently, this figure is just 8% .
Our World-Underwater Scholarship Society
Since 1974 Rolex has partnered the Our World Underwater Schol-
arship Society, which works with the scientific community to make
advances in ocean conservation. Rolex awards scholarships to
young people who are considering a career in the under water world.
8
5
7
6
FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME
37
Under the Pole ( 6 )
Since the first Deepsea Under the Pole in 2010, Rolex has supported
expeditions that push the boundaries of underwater exploration.
This pioneering expedition under the ice cap near the geographic
North Pole gathered important scientific information about the sub-
merged side of the Arctic and helped alert the world to the threat
of global warming. A new expedition, Under the Pole III, set out in
2017 and will continue until 2021. It will again explore marine eco-
systems, including by gathering samples of deep-water corals for
scientific study.
Deepsea Challenger
More than 50 years after the Triestes famed dive to the bot tom of the
Mariana Trench, film-maker and Rolex Testimonee James Cameron
made a solo dive to the deepest point of the world’s oceans in the
Deepsea Challenger submersible. Cameron’s expedition would
provide important new knowledge for ocean preservation. An exper-
imental Deepsea Challenge watch was attached to the submersi-
bles hydraulic manipulator arm. Despite the crushing 12 tonnes of
pressure on the crystal at 12,000 metres below the surface of the
Pacific Ocean, the watch emerged in perfect working order.
National Geographic Society
Since 1954 Rolex has been par tner to the National Geographic
Society whose contributions to exploration, science and envi-
ronmental preservation are world-renowned. Multiple and
far-reaching ties bind the two, most recently the launch of
the Perpetual Planet Expeditions. Through the insights of
science and by placing cutting-edge technology in some of
the most remote and least-observed regions of the globe,
the expeditions study and document the effects of climate
change on Earth’s most vital environments: mountains, rain-
forests and the oceans.
National Geographic et Rolex Perpetual Planet Expedition ( 7 )
This expedition was launched in 2019 to study the ef fects of climate
change on the Hindu Kush Himalaya glaciers. Over a billion people
depend on the glaciers for water. Here, climate scientist Mariusz
Potocki (University of Maine) is seen taking a core sample of ice
on Everests South Col in Nepal.
Explorer Testimonees
Since the early 1980s, numerous mountaineers, divers and
scientists have teamed up with Rolex. Some have become
Testimonees for the brand. As well as breaking records and
testing their physical endurance, many have advanced scien-
tific knowledge and forced us to open our eyes to the fra-
gility of the natural world. These explorers and adventurers
include the conservationist George Schaller, who has helped
establish more than 20 wildlife reserves around the world;
the paleoanthropologist Richard Leakey, renowned for his
fossil finds related to human evolution and his campaigning
for responsible environmental management in East Africa;
as well as mountaineers Ed Viesturs, who has scaled all 14
of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks without supplemental
oxygen, and Junko Tabei, the first woman to reach the sum-
mit of Everest, in 1975, whose post-graduate thesis quanti-
fied the impact of human waste on the mountain.
Alain Hubert ( 8 )
Belgian polar explorer and mountaineer Alain Hubert set up the Inter-
national Polar Foundation (IPF ) in 2002 to support polar science as
a key to understanding climate change. The IPF has raised funds to
build a new international research station in Antarctica that oper-
ates on renewable energies.
38 WATCH YOUR TIME RUBRIQUE
© Van Cleef & Arpels
>
The rules have changed; extravagance and inventiveness are no longer
considered incompatible with jewellery’s most refined, rigorously observed
techniques, honed through years of practice. Freed from classicism’s corset,
serious is no longer the name of the game: jewellery just wants to have
fun. Behind the scenes, inside the atelier, goldsmiths and gem-setters
continue to bring their expertise to bear in ways that instil an unexpected
frivolity into creations that are a delight to behold. This is a new awaken-
ing for jewellery, including the most storied brands.
Spring owers bloom light and airy at Van Cleef & Arpels with the aptly
named Frivole collection. Clusters of petals in polished gold or set with
diamonds form wonderful three-dimensional compositions. A similarly
graceful floral inspiration is seen at Piaget, whose Treasures collection
transforms marquise-cut diamonds into delicate foliage, with pops of colour
from rubies, sapphires or a dazzling emerald complete with its very own
“garden” the name given to the natural inclusions that are the calling
card of this precious stone.
This lighter mood gives wings to jewellers’ creativity as they put new spins
on objects, revisit familiar tropes or reinvent motifs and symbols. The Happy
Spirit collection from Chopard takes a lighthearted view by surrounding
its carefree oating diamond with concentric gold circles, like so many
symbols of purity and perfection. And symbols are something jewellers
adore. Talisman or charm, Qeelin’s Wulu rings borrow the curved shape
of a Wu Lou gourd or calabash, an auspicious symbol, referred to as the
“giver of life” in traditional Chinese culture. Insets of jade, red agate, onyx
or mother-of-pearl come alive on the hand.
Jewelled
Jewelled
delights
delights
--
o
-------
Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon
Jewellery takes a walk on the
light side with precious pieces
of fun that play with symbols
and take liberties with familiar
motifs. Bouquets of flowers
nestle against the skin, threads
of gold are woven with pearls and
coloured gems while diamonds
dancein absolute freedom.
PIAGET TREASURES. A HYMN TO THE JEWELS BESTOWED ON US BY NATURE, PIAGET'S
TREASURES COLLECTION IS AN INVITATION TO BECOME LOST IN THE "GARDEN" OF
THIS STUNNING EMERALD, MADE ALL THE MORE SPLENDID BY A WHITE GOLD
MOUNT SET WITH MARQUISE-CUT DIAMONDS.
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS FRIVOLE COLLECTION.
THE FRIVOLE COLLECTION BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
IS A BOUQUET OF LIGHT AGAINST THE SKIN. GOLD
FLOWERS MAKE UP THESE POETIC JEWELLERY
PIECES, GORGED WITH SUN.
All jewels are intoxicating.
Paul Éluard ( 1895 1952 )
JEWELLERY WATCH YOUR TIME 39
Symbols can take other forms too, such as the style signa-
tures we instantly equate with a brand. Chanel takes lib-
erties with the famous tweed of its braid-trimmed suits to
give life to a collection of forty-five High Jewellery pieces
that interpret the softness and texture of this iconic fabric.
Special techniques were used to create articulations and
intertwine gold with diamonds, pearls and sapphires that
reproduce tweed’s flecked surface in spectacular pieces,
each unique. At Louis Vuitton, the brands signature capital L
and capital V are the starting point for a boldly graphic col-
lection of jewellery. The two initials are stacked, overlapped
or locked together to create pieces with a distinct archi-
tectural quality that are also gender-fluid. Neither entirely
masculine nor manifestly feminine, they bend the rules of
classical jewellery design. Magnificent!
ˇ
CHANEL TWEED CORDAGE.
CHANEL WRITES A NEW CHAPTER IN THE
HISTORY OF TWEED WITH A COLLECTION OF
45 HIGH JEWELLERY PIECES, INSPIRED BY
MADEMOISELLE'S FAVOURITE FABRIC. SHOWN
HERE, A TWEED CORDAGE PENDANT IN YELLOW
GOLD, WHITE GOLD, DIAMONDS AND PEARLS.
LOUIS VUITTON LV VOLT.
THE LV VOLT JEWELLERY COLLECTION
REVOLVES AROUND THE BRAND’S
CAPITAL L AND V MONOGRAM.
A METAPHOR FOR MOVEMENT AND
SPEED, THE QUINTESSENTIAL INITIALS
COMBINE INTO BOLD ARCHITECTURAL
COMPOSITIONS.
CARTIER [SUR]NATUREL.
NATURE LAYS A CREATIVE PATH FOR THIS
COLLECTION THAT TRAVELS FROM FIGURATIVE
TO ABSTRACT. WATER, FLORA AND FAUNA ENTER
A SUPERNATURAL REALM, MADE VISIBLE BY THE
NATURAL WORLD’S MOST BEAUTIFUL, MOST
MYSTERIOUS ELEMENTS: GEMSTONES.
QEELIN WULU.
THE FIRST COLLECTION FROM QEELIN, WULU IS
BRIMMING WITH POSITIVE ENERGY. THIS TALISMAN
BRINGS THE PROMISE OF GOOD FORTUNE TO THOSE
WHO WEAR IT. ITS CURVES ARE THOSE OF A WU
LOU CALABASH; A SYMBOL OF LONGEVITY AND
PROSPERITY IN CHINESE CULTURE.
CHOPARD HAPPY SPIRIT.
LIKE A GOOD LUCK CHARM,
THE HAPPY SPIRIT RING FROM
CHOPARD RETURNS IN A STUN-
NINGLY SIMPLE DESIGN. CONCEN-
TRIC CIRCLES IN ROSE GOLD AND
WHITE GOLD FRAME THE UNPRE-
DICTABLE MOVEMENTS OF A
FREE-FLOATING DIAMOND.
HERMÈS KELLY.
SINCE THE CREATION OF THE KELLY BAG IN THE
1930S, THE TOURET CLASP HAS BECOME AN
EMBLEMATIC SIGNATURE OF THE MAISON. THIS KELLY
BRACELET IN ALLIGATOR AND PINK GOLD ADORNED
WITH 559 BLACK SPINELS OF 6.65 CARATS OFFERS A
MAGNIFICENT INTERPRETATION OF IT.
BVLGARI SERPENT
MISTERIOSI INTRECCIATI.
INSPIRED BY PIECES FROM
THE BVLGARI ARCHIVES, THIS
TIMEPIECE FEATURES A DESIGN
THAT COMBINES SERPENTI WITH
BEADS TO CREATE A STRIKING
EFFECT. THIS PIECE OF HIGH-
JEWELLERY IS A SECRET WATCH
IN 18KT ROSE GOLD WITH
INTERWEAVING BRACELET