WATCH YOUR TIME EUROPE UK 2020 : simplebooklet.com

SPECIAL WATCH MAGAZINE

As seen by

Audemars Piguet,

Baume & Mercier, Blancpain,

Bvlgari, Cartier, Chanel,

Grand Seiko, Hermès, Hublot,

Jaeger-LeCoultre, Louis Vuitton,

Panerai, Rolex, TAG Heuer,

Ulysse Nardin, Van Cleef & Arpels...

Marcel Van Luit and

the Hand of Time

Discover the world of

this year’s new watches

watchyourtime.com

European Edition 2020

— SPECIAL FEATURE —

THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 24

2020. PUBLISHED BY EDITIONS TEMPS INTERNATIONAL

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BORN IN LE BR ASSUS

RAISED AROUND THE WORLD

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votre garantie limitée internationale

enregistrez votre montre sur panerai.com

a unique formula of

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Marcel van Luit was born and raised in Groningen, in the Netherlands. After studying to be a teacher, he instead

became a social worker before embarking on a new career in art. His journey to who he is today began in 2013

when Marcel, who had just become a father to his ﬁrst son, Otis, was diagnosed with Guillain-Barré Syndrome, a

rare condition that affects the nerves and which left him completely paralyzed. After months in hospital, he was

transferred to a rehabilitation centre. Still in a wheelchair and eager to ﬁnd something to get him through the long

days ahead, he picked up a camera and started taking photos. Whenever Otis came to visit, Marcel would shoot

dozens of pictures which he then edited into dream worlds, creating the adventures he and his baby son couldn’t yet

enjoy. A whole new passion opened up to Marcel, who developed what would become his signature style of con

trasting tonalities, darkness and light. He posted some of his work on Instagram where he quickly gained an online

fan base. He also came to the attention of the European art scene, from where his ofﬂine career took off. A solo

show at Corrado Bortone Gallery in Paris, in May 2018, would be the ﬁrst of numerous exhibitions across the globe,

including in Antwerp, Miami, Sao Paulo, Amsterdam, Los Angeles, Zurich and Santiago de Chile. Marcel van Luit is

represented by ADB Agency in New York, Paris and London, and creates custom artwork for international clients.

In 2020 he published his ﬁrst limited-edition book: Where the Dreamers Go.

ILLUSTRATOR MARCEL VAN LUIT @ADB AGENCY

Marcel Van Luit

PUBLISHER-FOUNDER CHRISTIAN LLAVALL-UBACH MANAGING DIRECTOR ISABELLE BOUDRINGHIN — EDITIONS@TEMPS-INTERNATIONAL.COM WATCH

CONSULTANT ERIC DUMATIN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR CHRISTOPHE ROULET CONTRIBUTORS PETER BRAUN (GERMANY), VINCENT DAVEAU (FRANCE), PAOLO DE

VECCHI (ITALY), FABRICE ESCHMANN (SWITZERLAND), PALOMA RECIO (SPAIN), CHRISTOPHE ROULET (SWITZERLAND) TRANSLATORS SANDRA PETCH, PALOMA

RECIO, PAOLO DE VECCHI, AMAÏA TRADUCTIONS PHOTOGRAPHER

MARCEL VAN LUIT

ARTISTIC DIRECTOR VINCENT FESSELET, GENEVA PHOTOENGRAVERS

BOMBIE, GENEVA, PRINTED IN THE U.E. REPRODUCTION, EVEN PARTIAL, OF MATERIAL PUBLISHED IN WATCH YOUR TIME IS STRICTLY PROHIBITED. ALL

RIGHTS RESERVED IN THE U.K. AND OTHER COUNTRIES.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER CONTROL GEOGRAPHIC.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE’S UNIQUE INTERPRETATION OF THE TRAVEL WATCH

HAS BEEN A FEATURE OF THE MASTER CONTROL COLLECTION SINCE

1990, MUCH APPRECIATED BY CONNOISSEURS. RATHER THAN INDICATING

ONLY THE HOUR OF A SECOND TIME ZONE, THE GEOGRAPHIC ALSO HAS A

24-HOUR NIGHT/DAY INDICATOR AND, IN AN APERTURE AT THE BOTTOM OF

THE DIAL, DISPLAYS THE CITY NAME RELATING TO THE ZONE. THIS GIVES

TRAVELLERS THE OPTION OF SETTING THE SECOND TIME BY LOCATION,

RATHER THAN NEEDING TO CALCULATE THE TIME DIFFERENCE. THE NEW-

GENERATION CALIBRE 939 INCREASES THE POWER RESERVE OF THE

MASTER CONTROL GEOGRAPHIC TO 70 HOURS, WHILE THE CASE IS

AVAILABLE IN A CHOICE OF STEEL OR LE GRAND ROSE GOLD

11 focus audemars piguet

Innovative Spirit

12 editorial

Three views of time

13 focus cartier

Eternal icons

15 focus tag heuer

360° expertise

17 focus print a live

Opens a new window on information

20 focus chanel

Pioneer of time

22 focus bvlgari

Dolce vita

24 EXPLORATION

A matter of survival — PETER BRAUN

29 focus panerai

Stupendous 70

32 focus baume & mercier

Heritage and innovation

34 focus rolex

Perpetual Planet

38 JEWELLERY

Jewelled delights — MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON

41 focus hermès

Eternal vision

42 ENVIRONMENT

Mother Nature — CHRISTOPHE ROULET

45 focus van cleef & arpels

All you need is love

47 focus seiko

60 years of perfection

48 OCEANS

The call of the deep — PALOMA RECIO

51 focus ulysse nardin

A taste for adventure

53 focus louis vuitton

Good times

54 POLES

Fatal attraction — VINCENT DAVEAU

WATCH

YOUR TIME

SPECIAL WATCH MAGAZINE

PRODUCED FOR THE DAILY TELEGRAPH ON THURSDAY

SEPTEMBER 24,

2020 BY EDITIONS TEMPS INTERNATIONAL

WHO TAKE SOLE RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE CONTENTS.

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EUROPEAN EDITION 2020, PUBLISHED

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At ﬁrst sight, the new Audemars Piguet museum in Vallée

de Joux, the ancestral heart of the Swiss watch industry

and home to the venerable Manufacture since it was

founded in 1875, can come as a surprise. Not because

the building is out of place in this peaceful valley. On the

contrary. A glass swirl under a planted roof, it was designed

to blend with the landscape — another way to assert the

individuality of a ﬁrm which, having mastered the rules,

chooses to break them. The work of Danish architect

Bjarke Ingels and his BIG architectural ﬁrm, whose other

projects include the Google Campus and the Two World

Trade Center tower in New York, the structure is entirely

sympathetic with its surroundings.

For Audemars Piguet, this presence in Vallée de Joux is

essential as it anchors the brand in the terroir of Swiss

watchmaking. Legacy and authenticity are prized attrib-

utes in the profession, something the brand acknowledged

early on with the creation of its ﬁrst museum in 1992,

inside the original Audemars family home. The museum

was extended in 2004. Today, more than 3,000 people

visit each year to admire the technical tours de force of the

several hundred timepieces on display, certain of which

go back to the company’s foundation, and soak up the

atmosphere of the mountains and valley. The new building

is a reﬂection of this success while conveying the values

of tradition and innovative thinking that are characteristic

of the Manufacture.

Looking out onto the world

This is, in fact, two ventures in one, to be known as the

Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet. The “Musée” or museum

part houses the collection of historic timepieces in a

visual narrative by Atelier Brückner, a German company

and specialist in the design of museum space. Visitors

make their way along the double spiral towards the centre

of the building where grande complication watches are

displayed. The showstopper is L’Universelle, an extraor-

dinary pocket watch produced in 1899 with 1,168 com-

ponents driving more than twenty functions. Audemars

Piguet has also chosen to bring its watchmakers inside

these glass walls — hence the “Atelier” or workshop in

the name. All highly skilled and experienced in assem-

bling the grandes complications that continue to forge

the brand’s renown, they are joined by the Manufacture’s

other craftsmen and women, including stone-setters

and engravers. “We wanted visitors to experience our

heritage, our savoir-faire, our cultural origins and our

outward-looking attitude in a building that would reﬂect

both our roots and our avant-garde spirit,” says Jasmine

Audemars, Chairwoman of the Board of Directors. “Most

of all though, we wanted this to be a tribute to the watch-

makers and ar tisans who, through generations, have made

Audemars Piguet what it is today.”

The original building, which dates from 1868, hasn’t

been forgotten. Fully and sympathetically restored, it

provides space for the restoration workshop, the archives

and the Heritage division. It is also the headquarters of

the Audemars Piguet Foundation, which contributes to

the global conservation of trees and forests. The brand

is a patron of the arts, and so the new Musée Atelier

presents works by the contemporary artists who beneﬁt

from its support. These many elements are indicative of

the vast passion that drives the brand and which, coincid-

ing with the museum’s ofﬁcial opening, takes the shape

of the [Re]Master01. Directly inspired by a 1943 limited

edition, it tells its part of a story spanning hundreds

of years. Christophe Roulet

AUDEMARS PIGUET [RE]MASTER01. IN THE SAME WAY OLD RECORDINGS CAN

BE REMAST ERED, AU DEM ARS PIG UET HAS TR ANS POS ED A 194 3 CH RON OGR A PH

TO A WATCH FOR THE 2020S. MANY OF THE ORIGINAL’S DISTINCTIVE FEATURES

RE MAIN , IN PA RTI CUL AR TH E CASE IN STEEL AND PI NK GOLD, THE OL IVE-SHAPED

PUSHERS, THE TEARDROP LUGS AND THE CHAMPAGNE-COLOURED DIAL WITH

NUMERALS IN AN ART DECO-STYLE FONT. ALIGNING THIS [RE]MASTER01 WITH

CONTEMPORARY TASTES ARE THE LARGER 40MM DIAMETER.

MUSÉE ATELIER AUDEMARS PIGUET. THE MAISON DES FONDATEURS, WHERE

JULES LOUIS AUDEMARS AND EDWARD AUGUSTE PIGUET OPENED THEIR FIRST

WORKSHO P IN 1875, CONN ECTS WITH AN ULTR A-CO NTE MPOR A RY GLASS SP IRAL

DESIGNS THAT HAVE TAKEN SHAPE HERE IN THE VALLÉE DE JOUX FOR MORE

THAN TWO CENTURIES ARE PRESENTED INSIDE THIS EXCEPTIONAL SETTING.

AT THE CENTRE OF THE SPIRAL, THE GRANDES COMPLICATIONS AND MÉTIERS

D’ART WO RKS HOP S GI VE VI SITOR S A RA RE OPPOR TUN ITY TO SEE WATC HMAK ERS

WORKIN G ON HIG HLY COM PLEX PIECES , IN A CON TINUAT I ON OF TH E SAVOI R-FAI RE

THAT PRODUCED THE 300 TIMEPIECES ON DISPLAY. THIS AMBITIOUS ARCHITEC-

TURAL PROJECT AND THE INNOVATIVE MUSEUM DESIGN WERE MADE POSSIBLE

THROUGH COLLABORATION BETWEEN ARCHITECTS, ENGINEERS AND LOCAL

ARTISANS WHO WORKED ALONGSIDE AUDEMARS PIGUET’S DEPARTMENTS TO

CREATE THIS UNIQUE PERSPECTIVE ON THE MEASURING OF TIME.

Innovative spirit

Established in 1875, Audemars Piguet is

opening its Musée Atelier in a new building

that connects with the original premises

of the Manufacture, testament to the vision

of a brand that embraces past and future.

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 11

12 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS

The long view

Nelson Mandela believed that “a winner is a dreamer who never

gives up.” Never giving up is to take a long view of time. You could

say Bertrand Piccard came into the world with this view, along with

the ability to dream. Born to a family of scientiﬁc explorers, a family

of pioneers, that he should carry on their quest was never in any doubt.

How could it be otherwise when in 1931 your grandfather, the physicist

Auguste Piccard, a friend of Einstein, became the ﬁrst man to observe Earth’s

curvature by ascending into the stratosphere, to an altitude of 15,781 metres,

in a hot-air balloon. When in 1960 your father, Jacques Piccard, took his

Trieste bathyscaphe to the deepest point of the Mariana Trench, setting an

absolute record at 10,916 metres and showing that life existed even this far

beneath the surface. As for Bertrand Piccard himself, having circled the globe

in a balloon, the Breitling Orbiter III, in 19 days, 21 hours and 47 minutes,

he went on to launch the Solar Impulse solar-powered aircraft project.

Together with André Borschberg, between March 2015 and July 2016 he

completed the ﬁrst fully solar-powered circumnavigation of the globe.

Every one of these explorations meant “never giving up”. Auguste began

his experiments in the early 1920s yet it wasn’t until 1931 that he ﬁnally

reached the stratosphere. Bertrand’s father spent 12 years working on

the bathyscaphe that would take him to the deepest point of the ocean ﬂoor.

As for Solar Impulse, it came about only after 15 years of intense work.

As Bertrand Piccard is quick to point out, projects that take shape over the

long term are also projects for the long term. His grandfather and father taught

him a valuable lesson about the impact we have on our planet. Already in 1931,

Auguste Piccard declared that “the question is not so much whether man can go

further and populate other planets, but how we can organise ourselves to make

life on Earth worth living.” Four decades later, in 1972, Jacques Piccard warned

that “the public has not yet woken up to the extent and seriousness of pollution.”

Time for action

The time for talking is over. Now is the time for action. As the world entered a new

millennium, Bertrand Piccard described his belief that “adventure in the twenty-

ﬁrst century consists of using human ingenuity and mankind’s pioneering spirit

to develop the quality of life that present and future generations deserve to have.”

This urgency, “the only one in [his] life”, is all the more compelling because

“we are responding to an exponential rate of destruction at a linear rate.

It’s important we tell people we are heading for disaster but for this to have any

sense, we need to be offering solutions, too.” He smiles the contented smile

of a cat: “I love it when Greta Thunberg takes the stage ﬁrst because people

then pay more attention to the solutions earmarked by my foundation.”

Is scaling back production and consumption the solution? Piccard takes a more

nuanced view: “Less growth creates unemployment which is the guarantee of

social chaos. But continuing with quantitative growth creates environmental chaos.

There is a way to reconcile the environment and the economy, and that is qualitative

rather than quantitative growth. Currently we waste 50% of resources, 50% of

energy, 50% of food. By replacing outdated, polluting systems with clean, efﬁcient

systems we create jobs and wealth. We reconcile the short term with the long term.”

Action not words: Piccard has set up the Solar Impulse Foundation to fast-

track solutions that preserve the environment and enable economic growth.

Its objective is to select one thousand solutions that are “logical more than just

ecological, that can create jobs and generate proﬁt while also reducing polluting

emissions and preserving natural resources.” (https://solarimpulse.com)

Inner time

Sometimes, we need to pause the “inner clock” that governs our life. Fully occupied

or “fully empty”, we must learn to put time on hold, all the better to come back to it.

“It’s called meditation or spirituality,” says Bertrand Piccard, quick to add that this

has “nothing to do with the word religion. Ascending into the stratosphere, diving into

an ocean abyss or ﬂying with nothing but the sun to keep you going, all of this gives

you a different, deeper awareness of time. These are moments of absolute grace,

where the long view of time fuses with the need for action and the

fullness of the present.”

He admits he’s still a long way from achieving this state permanently. There are

urgent questions to be addressed ﬁrst, so that generations to come can enjoy

a planet ﬁt for living.

Pierre Maillard

A conversation

with Bertrand Piccard

Three

views

of time

12 WATCH YOUR TIME EDITORIAL

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 13

Ever since Cyrille Vigneron’s appointment as chief exec-

utive in 2016, Cartier has been moving in a clear direc-

tion. After concept watches bristling with high-mech

innovation, and grand complication watches which

make rarer, more targeted appearances, the Parisian

ﬁrm is taking an overtly sensual, consensual approach

to watch making. Cartier is back to being Cartier, one

might say; more concerned with cultivating a particular

frame of mind than wowing the audience with complex

intermeshings of gears and wheels. Mr Vigneron himself

has described this new line of thinking as “simple: to

revisit or reprise models from Cartier’s heritage which

remains rich in terms of the design, force and beauty

of the collections. The idea is to take themes that had

disappeared or become dormant, and have them evolve.”

The brand is, to say the least, reaping what it has sown,

conﬁrmed by Cyrille Vigneron’s afﬁrmation that “the

success of the Panthère and the Santos has exceeded

expectations.”

The Panthère is where it all began, in 2017. A ﬂashback

to the 1980s, the new Panthère immediately appealed

to women with its square case, featuring eight screws

around the bezel, and metal bracelet. Next in line, the

following year, was the Santos, a design that ﬁrst saw

daylight in 1904. A milestone in horological history,

Cartier has transformed a legend into a living legend

with skeleton and chronograph versions, as well as the

curvier Santos-Dumont. The oval Baignoire, born in 1912,

made its welcome return to Cartier’s collections last year.

This year heralds the revival of the Pasha. “We are con-

tinuing the strategy introduced three years ago to pay

tribute to our icons,” says Cyrille Vigneron. “The Pasha

is a celebration of simplicity and substance.”

An icon for today

True to Mr Vigneron’s ﬁrm belief that successful watch

brands cultivate a consistent identity, the Pasha was ripe

for revival. It is, after all, an icon on more than one count.

Back in the early 1930s, Louis Cartier received a request

for a wristwatch that could be worn while swimming

but wouldn’t look out of place at a swanky dinner party.

Cartier’s answer was a characterful watch, distinguished

by sword-shaped hands above a square minute track inside

a round dial. In addition to an elegant design, this new

watch was also a feat of technique for the era, with its

robust and waterproof case, automatic movement and a

screw-down crown cover attached to a chain. Discernibly

new, it joined Cartier’s collections as of 1943 and was

revisited in 1985 when it became the Pasha.

“Pasha de Cartier is a cult watch,” notes its maker. “At the

time of its launch, this powerful watch caught the eye of

opinion leaders. Initially adopted by men, it was imme

diately appropriated by women. True to the original but

even more sophisticated with a blue spinel or sapphire

on the crown, interchangeable strap and space for a

personal engraving under the crown cover, the Pasha

de Cartier for the 2020s is classic yet contemporary,

and as edgy as ever.”

As if to prove that explorations of past icons are no obstacle

to creativity, another of Cartier’s introductions this year is

the Maillon. Under the custodianship of creative director

Marie-Laure Cérède, this precious watch plays on the

look of the classic chain-link bracelet by aligning the links

sideways in a visual continuation of the hexagonal dial.

“We wanted to deconstruct the bracelet and approach the

design as a volume,” comments Ms Cérède. “The emotion

comes from the tension and the movement.” And because

Cartier is a brand for all times, it has extended the warranty

on its watches to eight years.

Eric Dumatin

MAILLON DE CARTIER WATCH. CREATIVIT Y IS SECOND NATURE AT CARTIER, AND

THIS PRECIOUS MAILLON WATCH IS A PERFECT ILLUSTRATION. UNDER CREA-

TIVE DIRECTOR MARIE-LAURE CÉRÈDE, IT PLAYS ON THE LOOK OF THE CLASSIC

CHAIN-LINK BRACELET BY ALIGNING THE LINKS SIDEWAYS IN A VISUAL CONTIN-

UATION OF THE HEXAGONAL DIAL. AND BECAUSE CARTIER IS A BRAND FOR ALL

TIMES, IT HAS EXTENDED THE WARRANTY ON ITS WATCHES TO EIGHT YEARS.

PASHA DE CARTIER WATCH. CARTIER REVISITS THE PASHA, WHICH BECAME

PART OF THE BRAND’S COLLECTIONS IN 1985. DISTINGUISHED BY A SQUARE

MIN UTE TRACK IN SID E A ROUN D DI A L, AD DIT ION AL FE ATUR ES ARE THE “CHA INE D”

CR OW N AN D COVE R, CLOUS DE PAR I S ON TH E BR ACE LET AND 100- M E TRE WAT ER-

RESISTANCE. THE MOVEMENT IS THE 1847 MC, AN AUTOMATIC CALIBRE WHOSE

AMAGNETIC COMPONENTS ARE FURTHER PROTECTED BY A PARAMAGNETIC

SHIELD. THIS NEW PASHA ALSO OFFERS MULTIPLE POSSIBILITIES FOR PERSON-

ALISATION, STARTING WITH A SPACE UNDER THE CROWN COVER FOR A SECRET

EN GRAVIN G. STRAP S CA N BE SWA PPE D IN AN D OU T WI TH A SING LE PUSH THANKS

TO THE QUICKSWITCH SYSTEM, WHICH IS CAMOUFLAGED IN THE CASE BACK.

FOR METAL BRACELETS, THE PATENTED SMARTLINK SYSTEM ADJUSTS FOR THE

PERFECT FIT IN MERE SECONDS.

Eternal icons

After fresh interpretations of the

Santos and the Panthère, Cartier

returns to another of its classic

designs, the Pasha. Joining it this

year is the Maillon, further illustration

of the fabulous creativity the Parisian

brand brings into play.

CYRILLE VIGNERON,

PRESIDENT & CEO

CARTIER INTERNATIONAL

Le Temps Poétique

Collection Pont des Amoureux

Mouvement automatique, rétrograde

et animation à la demande.

Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme depuis 1906

Boutique en ligne www.vancleefarpels.com - +33 1 70 70 02 63

VCA_SWITZ_FR_WATCH YOUR TIME_SEPT24_PONT DES AMOUREUX_NUIT_2019_280x380.indd 1 16/06/2020 12:24

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 15

360° expertise

Le Temps Poétique

Collection Pont des Amoureux

Mouvement automatique, rétrograde

et animation à la demande.

Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme depuis 1906

Boutique en ligne www.vancleefarpels.com - +33 1 70 70 02 63

VCA_SWITZ_FR_WATCH YOUR TIME_SEPT24_PONT DES AMOUREUX_NUIT_2019_280x380.indd 1 16/06/2020 12:24

At TAG Heuer 2019 was the year of the Monaco, a true

icon of the brand, celebrating its ﬁrst half-century. Its dis-

ruptive design coupled with a high-performance “engine”

— Calibre 11, the ﬁrst automatic chronograph to come

out of Switzerland — earned it a place in watchmaking

history and on-screen when Steve McQueen wore one

in the movie, Le Mans. “The ﬁve 169-piece anniversary

series, all ﬁtted with Calibre 11, made quite an impres

sion,” notes Frédéric Arnault, who was appointed CEO of

TAG Heuer in July this year. “The idea was to celebrate

this legend and its disruptive design without ﬂooding

the market. We want to retain the relative exclusivity of

what is a highly sought-after watch.”

Carrying on the festivities, 2020 marks 160 years since

the brand was founded in the Swiss Jura region, in 1860,

when innovation was already at its heart. The “face” of

this 160th anniversary is yet another emblem from the

brand’s history: the Carrera, introduced in 1963. The

ﬁrst new release, in January, takes its cue directly from

the 2447S, a silver-dialled Carrera from 1964. Next up,

the Carrera Montreal borrows its unusual blue, yellow

and red colour palette from a 1972 Carrera. Alongside

these special editions, the regular collection is joined by

eight stylish chronographs with plenty of sporting appeal,

launched in July and September. “The Carrera is TAG

Heuer’s top-selling collection and perfectly captures our

history of precision timekeeping, in particular for motor

racing,” comments Frédéric Arnault. “When designing

these 2020 versions, teams worked hard to bring out

the essence of the Carrera and transpose Jack Heuer’s

vision to contemporary watches with a strong personal-

ity. The objective is for this new Carrera to become the

undisputed luxury chronograph on the market.”

Avant-garde Technology

This attachment to its landmark models reﬂects efforts

made last year to refocus TAG Heuer on clear founda

tions and build a solid and coherent platform. Current

par tnerships in motor racing — the sport in which Heuer

and, from 1985, TAG Heuer has always excelled - reﬂect

this, as Frédéric Arnault explains: “We’ve entered into

an innovative partnership with Porsche and together

we’ve formed the TAG Heuer Porsche Formula E Team.

The team competes in the Formula E Championship of

which we are founding partner. Given the many values

we have in common with Porsche, we envisage extending

this collaboration over the coming months. At the same

time, we continue to support the Aston Martin Red Bull

Racing Formula 1 team, and are part of major dates in

the F1 calendar such as the Monaco Grand Prix.”

Putting a vintage label on TAG Heuer would, however,

be taking a narrow view. Innovation is hardwired into

the brand, as demonstrated by the invention, at the

TAG Heuer Institute, of the world’s ﬁrst carbon com

posite balance spring, mounted on a balance wheel

in an aluminium-based alloy. This avant-garde tech-

nology equips the Carrera H02 Tourbillon Nanograph.

Alongside groundbreaking developments in mechan-

ical movements, the brand is making strides in con-

nected technology with the presentation this year of a

third-generation connected watch, followed by a special

golf edition. Frédéric Arnault describes the TAG Heuer

Connected as “the most stylish in its category. It reﬂects

the brand’s pioneering spirit and attention paid both to

the watch’s technology and design. Naturally, we will

continue to invest in this area as we are buoyed by the

market.” From mechanical to connected, TAG Heuer’s

expertise covers 360°.

Eric Dumatin

TAG HEUER CONNECTED GOLF EDITION. COMBINING ADVANCED TECHNOL-

OGY WITH LONGSTANDING EXPERIENCE IN THE WORLD OF SPORTS, TAG

HEUER INT RODUCES THE GOLF EDITION, THE THIRD GENER AT ION OF ITS CON-

NECTED WATCH. THIS IS THE SECOND TIME THE BRAND HAS DEVELOPED A

WATCH SPECIF ICA LLY FOR THE GOLF COM M UNI T Y: TH E FI RST WAS IN 2019 WIT H

THE LAUNCH OF THE BEST-IN-CLASS TAG HEUER GOLF APP. DESIGNED AND

DEVELOPED ENTIRELY IN-HOUSE BY AN EXPERT TEAM LED BY TAG HEUER CEO

FRÉDÉRIC ARNAULT, THE TAG HEUER GOLF APP IS PACKED WITH FEATURES TO

HE LP MAST ER THE CO URS E, SU CH AS 3D MAPP I NG, HA Z ARD S DISTANCE, SHOT

TRACKING, SCORECARDS, PRO STATS AND THE NEW DRIVING ZONE FEATURE.

THIS DIGITAL CADDIE WON’T CARRY YOUR BAG BUT IT WILL HELP YOU TAKE

YOUR GAME TO THE NEXT LEVEL

. “PLAYING WITH A TAG HEUER CONNECTED IS

A TRUE GAME CHANGER THAT WILL GIVE ANY GOLFER AN IMMEDIATE COMPETI-

TIVE EDGE,” EXPLAINS FRÉDÉRIC ARNAULT, CEO OF TAG HEUER.

TAG HEUER CARRERA SPORT CHRONOGR APH E 44MM. AS PA RT OF ITS 16 0

ANNI -

VERSARY CELEBRATIONS, THROUGHOUT 2020 TAG HEUER IS INTRODUCING NEW

IT ERAT ION S OF ITS LEGEN DA RY CARRER A THAT AR E POWE RED BY THE HEUER 02

CA L IBRE — INC LUDI N G TH I S RETR O -ST YLED VERS I ON THAT PL AYS UP THE WATCH ’ S

RACING PEDIGREE. THE MOVEMENT’S 168 COMPONENTS INCLUDE A COLUMN

WHEEL FOR SMOOTHER FUNCTION IN G AND A VERTICAL CLUTCH FOR IM PROVED

PRECISION. IT ALSO PROVIDES AN IMPRESSIVE 80-HOUR POWER RESERVE.

After marking 50 years of the

Monaco in 2019 and with the Carrera

spearheading celebrations for the 160th

anniversary of its founding, TAG Heuer

makes clear its attachment to motor

sports and mechanical innovation.

FRÉDÉRIC ARNAULT,

CEO TAG HEUER

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 17

Watch Your Time is offering an augmented reality experi-

ence that makes your magazine the gateway to the digital

world. Thanks to the easy-to-use technology of the Print

Alive app, the talent of Marcel Van Luit, on the front cover,

comes alive. It enhances the information on the printed

page with videos, animated graphics, even content from

our partners’ sites.

Print Alive takes the Watch Your Time editorial message

further by inviting you to enter the fabulous world of lux-

ury timepieces. Step inside the manufacturing facilities

of the most prestigious brands, contemplate mechanical

complications in action, be a VIP guest at the major spor t-

ing and cultural events sponsored by the great names in

time measurement. It’s all possible, from the pages of

your magazine. Augmented reality is exactly that: digi-

tal technologies connecting media to deliver a wealth of

richly illustrated content.

For a very long time, one of the pleasures of reading

was that we could picture our own image of the subject

in question. Our imagination could run free, but were we

getting an accurate, truthful view? Seeing “for real” what

an article has to say, what a photo is illustrating, is now

possible. Using a digital device, this experience does

more than tell you about what’s being discussed on the

page: it generates emotions, pride, and a true sense of

belonging to a world with which we feel such a strong

connection.

We want you to become a knowledgeable member of

our community. Download our Print Alive app, scan our

interactive pages, and you’ll look at your magazine with

new eyes!

All our print editions now feature augmented reality

content.

Watch Your Time

opens a new window

on information

GET THE APP DOWNLOAD THE LATEST VERSION OF PRINT ALIVE FOR

ANDROID OR IPHONE. THE AUGMENTED REALITY (AR) FUNCTION IS BUILT

INTO THE APP.

LAUNCH THE AR FUNCTION — AUGMENTED REALITY LOCATE THE AR SCAN

BUTTON IN THE MENU. YOU CAN COME BACK TO THE MENU AT ANY TIME. TAP

THE BUTTON AND YOUR PHONE’S CAMERA (FOR SCANNING) WILL DISPLAY.

MAKE SURE YOU ALLOW THE APP TO ACCESS YOUR CAMERA.

LOOK FOR THE ICON WATCH OUT FOR THE PRINT ALIVE ICON WHILE

READING YOUR MAGAZINE.

VIEW CONTENT USE YOUR PHONE TO SCAN THE MAGAZINE AND DIS-

PLAY AUGMENTED REALITY CONTENT (VIDEOS, GRAPHICS, IMAGES)

RELATING TO THE ARTICLE. YOU CAN MOVE THE CAMERA, SELECT

THE SECTION YOU WANT AND WATCH VIDEOS IN FULL-SCREEN MODE

ON YOUR PHONE.

THE APP WAS DEVELOPED BY XTEND, THE SWISS AGENCY

AT THE CUTTING EDGE OF AUGMENTED REALITY TECHNOLOGY

(WWW.AUGMENTEDREALITY.CH).

The best of both worlds.

Print and digital are no

longer mutually exclusive

sources of information.

Now you can browse

a magazine using your

mobile phone or tablet

to complete the reading

experience and get to

the heart of the subjects

that interest you.

THE ART OF FUSION

BIG BANG INTEGRAL

Boîtier avec bracelet intégré en King Gold 18K.

Mouvement manufacture chronographe UNICO.

BOUTIQUES

CANNES • COURCHEVEL

MONACO • PARIS • ST-TROPEZ

Hublot_WatchYourTime_BBIntKG_560x380.indd 1

24.07.20 16:4524.07.20 16:45

THE ART OF FUSION

BIG BANG INTEGRAL

Boîtier avec bracelet intégré en King Gold 18K.

Mouvement manufacture chronographe UNICO.

BOUTIQUES

CANNES • COURCHEVEL

MONACO • PARIS • ST-TROPEZ

Hublot_WatchYourTime_BBIntKG_560x380.indd 1

24.07.20 16:4524.07.20 16:45

One thing we have learned from Chanel is to always

expect the unexpected, and perhaps nowhere more

than with its watches. Each is an accumulation of tiny

details, all carefully studied, that never fails to take fans

by surprise. The Code Coco watch is an excellent example

of how the brand cultivates this art of the unexpected.

Unveiled in November 2017, the concept behind this

wristwatch was to create an original piece of jewellery

that also gave the time on a dial that cross-references

the immediately recognisable clasp of the 2.55 handbag.

The project remained strictly under wraps right up until

the launch, which only added to the surprise and no

doubt emotion of the couture house’s numerous aﬁcio-

nadas. The response to the Mademoiselle Privé Bouton

will likely be the same. It is another remarkable demon-

stration of the artistic crafts or métiers d’art that are so

much a part of Chanel — a brand that has banned the

use of exotic skins for its watch straps as part of its

commitment to ethical and sustainable practices.

The one that’s making the biggest impact in 2020 is,

however, the J12, and for a simple reason: the watch that

was hailed a twenty-ﬁrst century icon almost as soon as it

was launched turns twenty this year. Chanel already piqued

our curiosity a year ago, when the J12 was given a subtle

revamp under the expert eye of Arnaud Chastaingt, Director

of Chanel’s Watch Creation Studio since 2013. Rather than

sweeping changes, Chastaingt introduced almost imper-

ceptible updates to the vast majority of design elements,

thus giving the J12 a completely new appearance without

altering its essence. The result, in the words of Frédéric

Grangié, President of Chanel Watches and Jewellery, is

“an impalpable but very real impression of lightness that is

both visible and invisible. Because the J12 can only ever

be itself, it had to evolve. Without changing!”.

Manufacture movements

The most obvious transformation came from within, namely

Calibre 12.1, a chronometer-grade movement, certiﬁed by

the Contrôle Ofﬁciel Suisse des Chronomètres, that delivers

70 hours of power reserve. Winding is by a tungsten rotor

which Chanel’s Watch Creation Studio insisted be a perfect

circle: one of the signatures of a Chanel Fine Watch. As usual,

the brand caught everyone off-guard when it revealed that

the new calibre was manufactured by Kenissi, which also

supplies movements to Tudor, sister brand to Rolex. And

because Chanel swears by long-term collaborations, it went

on to announce it had taken a stake in Kenissi. Chanel had

already proved itself capable of developing and producing

high-quality movements at its own facilities, G&F Châtelain

(which also supplies the brand’s signature ceramics), as bril-

liantly demonstrated by the Haute Horlogerie Calibres 1, 2

and 3. This time, though, it was entering a new dimension.

Calibre 12.1 has given Chanel a robust, precise and

reliable base movement; a strategic advantage for any

watch brand. “The J12 is one of our icons,” notes Frédéric

Grangié. “The new J12, remarkably remodelled by Arnaud

Chastaingt, has been given an exceptionally positive

reception. We can truly say the back is as worthy of

attention as the front, as it is now possible to admire

the movement through a sapphire crystal. The J12 is in

a category of its own. Not only is it such an important

pillar for Chanel, it exists beyond the brand as an icon of

watchmaking. This reworking guarantees its long-term

future. A lot has happened since Chanel’s watchmaking

division was set up 33 years ago, from the point of view

of creations and integration, with Manufacture Chatelain,

as well as partnerships and stakeholdings, such as with

Romain Gauthier, F.P.Journe and Kenissi. This gives us

true legitimacy. Now Chanel can expand its technical

excellence, in particular with the new J12 and its new

movement.”

Marking this anniversary year are the J12 X-Ray, made

entirely from sapphire — a world-ﬁrst — with Calibre 3.1 for

the movement, and the J12 Paradoxe whose case fuses

black and white ceramic in a technical tour de force. Both

are stunning creations, but coming from Chanel, are we

really surprised?

Eric Dumatin

CHANEL J12 X-RAY. IN 2020 CHANEL CELEBRATES THE TWENTIETH ANNIVER-

SARY OF THE J12, A TIMEPIECE THAT WAS HAILED AS THE T WENTY-FIRST CENTU-

RY’S FIRST ICONIC WATCH. LAST YEAR, AHEAD OF THIS MILESTONE, THE BRAND

INTRODUCED A SUBTLE REVAMP, MAKING ALMOST IMPERCEPTIBLE UPDATES

THAT GAVE THE J12 A NEW APPEARANCE WHILE PRESERVING ITS IDENTITY. THIS

J12 X-R AY IS A LIMITED EDITION OF 12, FITTED WITH A SPECIALLY SKELETONISED

VERSION OF THE CALIBRE 3.1 IN-HOUSE MOVEMENT. ENTIRELY TRANSPARENT,

TH E X-R AY IS CLOA KED IN SAP PHIR E FROM CAS E TO BR ACE LET TO DIAL . EVEN TH E

MAINPLATE, MINUTE TRACK BRIDGE AND THE BRIDGE FOR THE GEARTRAIN ARE

SAPPHIRE: A TECHNICAL TOUR DE FORCE AS WELL AS A WORLD-FIRST. ADDING

BRILLIANCE TO TRANSPARENCY ARE THE BAGUETTE DIAMONDS THAT GARNISH

THE BEZEL AND THE DIAL.

CHANEL J12 PARADOXE. THE PAR A DOXE COM BINES THE J12’S SIG NAT URE BLACK

AND WHITE IN A SINGLE CERAMIC CASE. THE TWO PARTS OF DIFFERENT DIMEN-

SIONS ARE CUT, FUSED THEN ASSEMBLED ON A METAL FRAME, WHICH IS FITTED

WITH A SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL FOR THE CASEBACK. KEEPING THE BEAT IS CALIBRE

12.1, MANUFACTURED BY KENISSI FOR CHANEL.

Pioneer of time

Chanel’s J12 is twenty years young. After last year’s

subtle but significant transformation, the Parisian

house presents two stunning new iterations: one,

a world-first, entirely in sapphire, and one merging

black and white ceramic.

FRÉDÉRIC GRANGIÉ,

CEO, CHANEL

WATCHES & FINE JEWELLERY

* A la poursuite de demain / Chronographe de course original / Ne craquez pas sous la pression / Photographie retouchée

Carrera_Elegant_Chrono_Lifestyle_driver_FR_280x380mm.indd 1Carrera_Elegant_Chrono_Lifestyle_driver_FR_280x380mm.indd 1 13.08.20 16:2313.08.20 16:23

20 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS

Pioneer of time

* A la poursuite de demain / Chronographe de course original / Ne craquez pas sous la pression / Photographie retouchée

Carrera_Elegant_Chrono_Lifestyle_driver_FR_280x380mm.indd 1Carrera_Elegant_Chrono_Lifestyle_driver_FR_280x380mm.indd 1 13.08.20 16:2313.08.20 16:23

Dolce Vita

In the calm before the Covid-19 storm, LVMH’s watch

brands, led by Bvlgari, were able to showcase their newest

releases at the LVMH Watch Week, organised in Dubai

in January. “This proved to be a rather premonitory and

fortunate initiative as just a few days later, the coronavirus

was bringing the world to a standstill,” comments Jean-

Christophe Babin, Chief Executive of the brand which was

established in Rome in 1884. “Thanks to Watch Week,

as of January Bvlgari was able to cover around 60%

of its sales forecast for 2020. Despite the crisis, we’ve

worked hard to create the right conditions to come back

strongly. We want to be in a position to return to 2019’s

record level in 2021, thanks in particular to a number of

new watch and jewellery products.”

After the presentation in Dubai of the extraordinary Serpenti

Seduttori Tourbillon, whose BVL150 movement incorpo-

rates the smallest tourbillon currently on the market, the

Geneva Watch Days event, held end August, gave Bvlgari

yet another opportunity to show off its savoir-faire. “We

unveiled three major new releases over the four days,

starting with our sixth world record in the Octo Finissimo

line. We also showed a new Gérald Genta watch which

marks the second stage in the relaunch of this legendary

brand, as well as an entirely new collection of laidback

men’s sport watches, geared towards the economic climate

and a young, informal clientele.”

“Bvlgari will continue to astonish”

Bvlgari is a multi-talented brand, as Jean-Christophe

Babin conﬁrms: “We have a remarkably broad creative

spectrum. Bvlgari is not just active in the watch segment.

We are a global luxury brand. Jewellery-making, which

is our core signature, and watchmaking have much in

common with respect to the techniques and the crafts

they employ, hence why these two sectors work closely

together at Bvlgari, creating wonderful opportunities for

the brand. This is particularly true in the women’s watch

segment, although this doesn’t exclude men’s watches as

demonstrated by the recent Octo Roma Tourbillon with its

sapphire and malachite case. Rest assured that Bvlgari

will continue to astonish.”

Developments in the brand’s luxury hotel and resort port-

folio conﬁrm this. The current offering of six destinations

in Milan, London, Dubai, Bali, Beijing and Shanghai will be

joined by new openings. Plans to expand to Paris, Rome,

Moscow and Tokyo have already been announced. Says

Jean-Christophe Babin, “We will continue to develop the

Bvlgari Hotels & Resorts division where we see necessary,

in major cosmopolitan cities such as Los Angeles or in

the Maldives. We’re not talking here about simply hotels:

these are immersive, exclusive experiences that provide

far more than hotel service, even ﬁve-star. Ultimately,

we aim to have around twenty properties, each offering

welcoming and reﬁned Italian hospitality at exceptional

locations such as the Piazza Augusto Imperatore in

Rome, across from the Mausoleum of Augustus, the

ﬁrst Roman emperor.”

Watches remain central to the brand, whose ﬁrst time

pieces were introduced in the 1920s. Originally heavily

jewelled pieces, from 1977 they became the expression

of a style that uses strong shapes to express vastly imag-

inative designs. “We’re working on our ﬂagship lines,” says

Jean-Christophe Babin, “starting with Serpenti and Lvcea

for women’s watches. For men, this obviously means the

Octo. Alongside these three collections, which form the

backbone of our watch offering, we present other lines

which are also performing extremely well, such as Diva

and Bvlgari. These various collections provide a solid

foundation for Bvlgari’s watch division, with the addition

of exceptional and often one-of-a-kind high jewellery

creations.”

Christophe Roulet

BVLGARI ALUMINIUM. THE BVLGARI ALUMINIUM 2020 REKINDLES THE FLAME OF

THE FIRST-GENERATION MODELS INTRODUCED IN 1998. IT SPEAKS A UNIVER-

SAL LANGUAGE THAT GOES BEYOND GENDER, AGE, TRENDS, ERAS OR SOCIAL

PROFILES. MORE THAN TWENTY YEARS HAVE PASSED AND THE COLLECTION IS

AS FRESH AS EVER. TWENTY YEARS AGO, THE BVLGARI ALUMINIUM WAS PART

OF THE MOST IMPORTANT MOMENTS OF AN ENTIRE GENERATION. NOW A NEW

GENERATION AWAITS.

BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO TOUR BILLON CHRONOGR APH SK ELETON AU TOMATIC.

FUELLED BY PASSION, DRIVEN BY EXCELLENCE, THE OCTO LINE CONTINUES TO

CH ALLENGE BOUNDARIE S WI TH A SIX TH WO RLD RECORD: THE OCTO FINISSI MO

TO U RBILLO N CHR O N OGR APH SK E LETO N AU TO M AT I C. TH E EXTRA-T H I N AU TOM AT I C

MOVEMENT AT ITS HEART INCORPORATES A MONOPUSHER CHRONOGRAPH AND

A TOURBILLON, YET MEASURES A MERE 3.50MM HIGH AND DELIVERS 50 HOURS

OF POWER RES ERVE. TH IS EXC EPTI ONA L CA LIBR E IS HOU SED INS IDE A TITANI U M

CASE, 7.40MM THICK. EVER SINCE ITS INTRODUCTION IN 2014, THE OCTO FINIS-

SIM O HA S SE T A NE W STANDAR D FO R TH INNESS WHIL E TU RNIN G HE A DS WITH ITS

ST RIKI NGLY BOLD DES IGN . THI S EXPER TISE IS REPE ATED IN BVLGA RI’S WOMEN’S

WATCH COLLECTIONS: THE SERPENTI SEDUTTORI, INTRODUCED EARLIER THIS

YEAR, CONTAINS THE SMALLEST TOURBILLON ON THE MARKET.

Born as a jeweller, Bvlgari has since developed

its multiple creative talents in watches, then in

accessories, fragrances and luxury hotels. All with

the same enthusiasm and distinctly Italian flair.

JEAN-CHRISTOPHE

BABIN, CEO

BVLGARI

LMH_HQ • Visual: Arceau LHDLL • Magazine: Watch_your_Time 1 (FR) • Language: French • Issue: 24/09/2020

Doc size: 280 x 380 mm • Calitho #: 07-20-141739 • AOS #: HER_02096 • AD 20/07/2020

LE TEMPS, UN OBJET HERMÈS.

Arceau, L’heure de la lune

Le temps est dans la lune.

22 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS

LMH_HQ • Visual: Arceau LHDLL • Magazine: Watch_your_Time 1 (FR) • Language: French • Issue: 24/09/2020

Doc size: 280 x 380 mm • Calitho #: 07-20-141739 • AOS #: HER_02096 • AD 20/07/2020

LE TEMPS, UN OBJET HERMÈS.

Arceau, L’heure de la lune

Le temps est dans la lune.

Illustrator Marcel Van Luit @ADB Agency

The means by which we measure time have evolved at the demand of

science or in situations where lives are at risk. Astronomers were the ﬁrst

to require clocks of greater precision. Stargazing was no longer a form of

divination but a science that called for instruments capable of providing

measurements to the nearest second, if astronomers were to produce

models of the cosmos and calculate the relative position of the celestial

bodies within the range of their telescopes. This was their only means of

detecting, quantifying and interpreting any change in the movement of a

given star or planet.

Seafaring explorers would also come to appreciate the need for accurate

time measurement. In 1714 the British Parliament passed the Longitude

Act which offered a prize of £20,000 — a colossal amount — “for such

person or persons as shall discover the longitude at sea”. Conditions stipu-

lated that the calculation should be accurate to half a degree (around thir ty

nautical miles) after forty days at sea. Time was the crux of the matter. If a

sailor could observe that it was solar noon and know the time at the port

from which the ship had set sail, he could then convert this time difference

into degrees of angle and plot the ship’s position.

Simple enough… provided the vessel carried a reliable clock, capable

of keeping accurate time on a pitching and rolling ship. Watchmaking’s

greatest minds set about the task of building such a device but the

solution was ultimately found, in 1759, by a carpenter and self-taught

clockmaker, John Harrison. His H4 — which could be described as the

ﬁrst ever precision pocket watch — lost just ﬁve seconds a month and

would change the face of the world. Others would make ample use of

Harrison’s ﬁndings to build more of these “marine chronometers” that

took Britain’s Royal Navy towards new colonial territories and opened

up vast opportunities for trade.

Explorers setting sail for distant lands also used these precision timekeep-

ers that were protected from dust, rain, sea spray and vibrations in solid

mahogany cases. Come the 1900s, the pocket watch and later the wrist-

watch were vital equipment for any expedition. Whether scaling mountains,

crossing deserts or cutting a path through tropical forest, these intrepid

explorers could count on accuracy to the second. Their watches were

robust, ideally waterproof and if possible, offered an additional function.

For example, a 24-hour hand can be used to ﬁnd north and south; spele-

ologists can use it to keep track of day and night.

A matter

of survival

-------

Peter Braun

PASHA DE CARTIER. THE PASHA DE CARTIER WATCH, SHOWN HERE IN THE SKELETONISED VERSION,

IS A VISUAL STATEMENT: THAT OF A SQUARE MINUTE TRACK INSIDE A ROUND CASE AND DIAL. THE DESIGN

IS ALSO IN THE DETAIL OF A "CHAINED" CROWN, PROTECTED BY A REMOVABLE CROWN COVER. THIS

IS ALSO A WATCH WITH MULTIPLE POSSIBILITIES FOR PERSONALISATION: ENGRAVED INITIALS CAN BE

SECRETLY INSCRIBED UNDER THE CROWN COVER; THE QUICKSWITCH SYSTEM, CAMOUFLAGED IN

THE CASE BACK, CHANGES STRAPS WITH A SINGLE PUSH; FOR METAL BRACELETS, THE PATENTED

SMARTLINK SYSTEM ADJUSTS FOR THE PERFECT FIT IN MERE SECONDS. THE MOVEMENT IS

THE 9624 MC SKELETON AUTOMATIC CALIBRE WITH 48 HOURS OF POWER RESERVE.

Accurate time measurement

hasn’t always been as readily

available as it is today,

including in environments

— at sea, underwater or

in the sky — where every

second really does count.

I think the prime reason for existence,

for living in this world, is discovery.

—

James Dean ( 1931 — 1955 )

EXPLORATION WATCH YOUR TIME 25

V VIIVI

IIIIIIIIII

26 WATCH YOUR TIME EXPLORATION

I · ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL GMT-MASTER II. DESIGNED

TO SHOW THE TIME IN TWO DIFFERENT TIME ZONES

SIMULTANEOUSLY, TH E GM T- M AST ER, LAU NCHE D IN 1955 ,

WAS ORI G INA LLY DE V ELOPED AS A NAVIG ATIO N IN STRU-

MENT FOR FREQUENT FLYERS CRISS-CROSSING THE

GLOBE. HEIR TO THE ORIGINAL MODEL, THE GMT-MAS-

TER II WAS UNVEILED IN 1982, WITH A NEW MOVEMENT

ENSURING EASE OF USE.

II · ULYSSE NARDIN MARINE TOURBILLON BLUE. ULYSS E

NARDIN’S TOURBILLON CHRONOMETERS ORIGINATE

IN THE LATE NINETEENTH CENTURY, WHEN THE TOUR-

BILLON’S PRIMARY FUNCTION WAS TO MAKE UP FOR

ERRORS IN RATE CAUSED BY GRAVITATIONAL PULL.

THE MARINE TOURBILLON CARRIES ON THIS TRADI-

TION. THE MOVEMENT IS THE IN-HOUSE UN-128 FLYING

TOURBILLON.

III · HUBLOT AER OFUSION CH RONOGRAPH UEFA CHAM -

PIONS LEAGUE. HUBLOT, AS UEFA’S OFFICIAL WATCH

PARTNER, PRESENTS THIS 100-PIECE LIMITED EDITION

IN BLUE CERAMIC. ONE OF ITS MOST STRIKING FEA-

TURES IS THE THREE-DIMENSIONAL DIAL. THE BLACK-

ENED BRIDGES OF THE HUB1155 SK ELETON MOVEMENT

ALSO SERVE AS A PLATFORM FOR THE TRANSPARENT

SAPPHIRE DIAL.

IIII · PANERAI LUMINOR MARINA FIBRATECH™. THIS

MODEL IN FIBRATECH™ CELEBRATES THE 70TH ANNIVER-

SARY OF THE PATENT FOR LUMINOR, A TRITIUM-BASED,

LU M I NOU S SU B STA N CE DE V ELOPED BY PANE R A I . FI B R AT-

ECH™ IS AN ECO-SUSTAINABLE MATERIAL BORROWED

FROM THE AEROSPACE INDUSTRY THAT IS MADE WITH

FI B RES PRODU CED FR OM THE FUSI ON OF BA SA LT ROCK

AND MINERAL ADDITIVES.

V · BAUME & MERCIER CLASSIMA CHRONOGRAPH COM-

PLETE CALENDAR AUTOMATIC. THIS NEW ADDITION TO

THE CLASSIMA COLLECTION COMBINES TWO USEFUL

COMPLICATIONS: A CHRONOGRAPH WITH 60-SECOND,

30 - M INU TE AND 12- HOUR COUNTER S, AND A TR I PLE CA L-

EN DA R SH OWING DAY AND MO NTH IN APER TUR ES, DATE

BY HAND, A 24-HOUR INDICATION AND MOON PHASES.

VI · TAG HEUER FORMULA 1 ASTON MARTIN RED BULL

RACING SPECIAL EDITION. GIVING SHAPE TO TAG

HEUER’S ONGOING ALLIANCE WITH ASTON MARTIN

RED BU LL RACIN G IS TH I S ULTRA-RO BUS T 43 MM CHRO N -

OGRAPH THAT TAKES ITS CUE FROM THE NEW ASTON

MARTIN RED BULL RACING FORMULA 1 CAR. THE BLUE

OF THE CAR IS FOUND ON THE WATCH’S DIAL AND ALU-

MINIUM FIXED BEZEL.

VII · GIRARD-PERREGAUX LAUREATO ABSOLU TE WW.TC.

THIS ABSOLUTE WW.TC WORLDTIMER SWAPS THE LAU -

REATO’S CLASSIC LINES FOR A SPORTING AESTHETIC.

THE OCTAGONAL BEZEL SITS ABOVE A BROADER CASE

MIDDLE WITH TAUTER LINES. SO AS TO ACCENTUATE

THIS NEW DESIGN, THE CASE (WHICH IS WATER-RE-

SISTANT TO 300 METRES) IS CUT FROM BLACK PVD-

TREATED TITANIUM.

Watchmakers take to the sky

The ﬁrst pilot’s watch had only one special feature and that was a leather strap.

Pilots navigated by sight, relying on landmarks such as railway lines or roads every

few miles. If fog, rain or snow deprived them of a clear view of the land below, planes

remained grounded. In the 1920s and 30s the idea that planes could become a viable

means of transportation prompted a series of sensational long-distance ﬂights that

put immense strain on both aircraft and pilot. Passenger seats were stripped and

replaced by additional fuel tanks, leaving these brave adventurers to ﬂy for hours,

sometimes days, above uninhabited regions and endless expanses of ocean with

no crew to rely on and only themselves for company.

These pilots worked out their position much the same way as the seafarers and

explorers of centuries earlier, using time at the point of take-off, a sextant and a

nautical almanac. Except the methods that had proved their worth on ships advanc-

ing at the rate of a few knots were hardly suited to planes that could travel at speeds

approaching 300 mph. Pilots had to perform the many calculations required to ﬁx

position incredibly quickly and while still focusing on the business of actually ﬂying

the plane. Well aware of the difﬁculties this implied, U.S. Navy Lieutenant Commander

Philip Van Horn Weems invented a rotating and lockable bezel inscribed with a

60-seconds scale that could be used to synchronise a wristwatch to a radio time

signal without stopping the movement.

After making the ﬁrst solo ﬂight across the Atlantic, from New York to Paris in

33 hours, Charles A. Lindberg set about improving Weems’ system, and in 1931

the hour angle watch gave pilots a means of calculating longitude in degrees and

minutes of arc. Boasting an impressive 47.5mm diameter, Lindbergh’s watch was

rapidly adopted by other aviators, who strapped it on top of their thick ﬂying jacket or

around the thigh. As technology progressed, ﬁrst with radar then the Global Positioning

System (GPS), manual navigational aids were no longer the vital instruments they

had once been. How many people today remember the role these watches played

in bringing pilots safely to land?

Time under the sea

Jacques-Yves Cousteau may have declared that more than 90% of the planet’s

surface was underwater, the ﬁrst excursions beneath the seas were to military rather

than scientiﬁc ends, using the murky blackness to operate under cover. In 1936 the

Royal Italian Navy commissioned Guido Panerai — a manufacturer in Florence of

torpedo launchers, sighting devices, depth gauges, compasses and pocket lamps for

underwater use — to produce a fully waterproof wristwatch for its nascent combat

divers unit. An important speciﬁcation of this watch was to be legible in complete

darkness. This high visibility, still one of the distinguishing features of a Panerai

watch, originally came from Radiomir, a luminescent paint that Panerai patented in

1914, made from zinc sulphate and radium bromide.

Rolex in Switzerland became the ﬁrst brand to equip one of its watches, the Turn-

O-Graph, with a rotating bezel for the calculation of dive times, in 1953. It was

I IIIIIIIII

V VIIVI

28 WATCH YOUR TIME EXPLORATION

I · PATEK PHILIPPE ALARM TRAVEL TIME REF 5520P.

PATEK PHILIPPE PRESENTS A NEW AUTOMATIC-WINDING

GRANDE COMPLICATION THAT COMBINES ITS EXCLUSIVE

DUAL TIME ZO NE TR AVEL TIME SYSTEM FEAT URIN G TWO

CENTRAL HOUR HANDS (ONE SOLID AND ONE SKELE-

TONI SED) WITH A 24-HO UR AL ARM MEC HANI SM SOUN D-

ING A CLASSIC HAMMER AND GONG STRIKE.

II · BLANCPAIN AIR COMMAND. WHILE NO-ONE KNOWS

THE EXACT CIRCUMSTANCES SURROUNDING THE CRE-

ATION OF THIS CHRONOGRAPH, DEVELOPED IN THE

19 50S FOR U. S. AI R FO RCE PILOTS, IT’ S A FACT THAT VERY

FEW WERE PRODUCED, MAKING THIS A UNICORN FOR

COLLECTORS. THIS 500-PIECE LIMITED EDITION STAYS

TR UE TO THE ORIGI NAL FOR MA XIM U M VI NTAGE APPE A L .

III · JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER CONTROL CHRONO-

GRAPH CALENDAR. INTRODUCED IN 1992, THE MASTER

CONTROL TAKES ITS NAME FROM THE 1000 HOURS

CONTROL CERTIFICATION. THE COLLECTION RETURNS

TO TH E SP OTL IGH T, INCLUDI NG WI TH THIS MODEL THAT

FE ATURES A BI- COMPAX CHRONO, A TRIPLE CALENDAR

AND MOON PHASES. A FIRST FOR JAEGER-LECOULTRE.

IIII · AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE SELF-

WINDING CHRONOGRAPH. THE ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE

WAS DESTINED FOR ADVENTURE RIGHT FROM ITS

LAUNCH IN 1993, AND THIS 44MM CHRONO IN KHAKI IS

NO EXCEP TION . STAND OUT FE ATURES ARE THE CERAMI C

BE Z EL, PUS HER S AN D SC REW-LOC K ED CROWN , A MEGA

TAP I SSE R IE DI A L , ST URDY RUBBE R ST R A PS, INCLUDING A

CA M OUFL AGE OP TION , AN D A 100-METR E DE P TH RATI N G .

V · LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR WORLD TIME RUNWAY.

TH E TA M BOUR’S SPO RTY VI BE MEETS A ST YLISH WORL D

TIME FUNCTION INSIDE A 46MM BI-METAL CASE IN PINK

GOLD AND BLACK PVD-TREATED STEEL. THE DIAL, DIS-

TINGUISHED BY A NEW ARCHITECTURE AND DESIGN

CODES, IS CRAFTED IN-HOUSE BY LOUIS VUITTON’S

VIRTUOSO DIAL-MAKERS.

VI · TISSOT HERITAGE NAVIGATOR CHRONO AUTO 1973.

A YEAR AFTER THE RUNAWAY SUCCESS OF THE

FIRST-GENERATION TISSOT HERITAGE NAVIGATOR

CHRONO AUTO 1973, THE BRAND RETURNS WITH A

SECOND SERIES OF THIS TONNEAU-SHAPED CHRONO.

INNOVATORS BY TR ADIT ION, TIS SOT IS LAUNCH ING THIS

EYE-CATCHIN G TI M EPI EC E AS PART OF ITS PAR TNERSH I P

WITH THE KESSEL CLASSICS RACING TEAM.

VII · LONGINES LEGEND DIVER WATCH. LONGINES IS

ALWAYS HAPPY TO REVISIT THE WATCHES THAT HAVE

HELPED FORGE ITS RENOWN. THIS LONGINES LEGEND

DIVER WATCH REIMAGINES A 1960S MODEL. ALL THE

WHI LE CONSERVING THE ER A’S T YPICAL STYLE CODES

AN D DE SIG N EL EMENTS , TH IS CONTEMPO R ARY ED ITIO N

BENEFITS FROM LONGINE’S EXPERTISE TO GUARANTEE

LEGIBILITY, WATER-RESISTANCE AND PRACTICALITY.

followed a year later by the Submariner. Certiﬁed water-resistant to 100 metres,

the Submariner would be the inspiration for every modern dive watch. Also around

this time, Captain Robert “Bob” Maloubier and First Lieutenant Claude Riffaud

of the French Navy’s elite unit of commando frogmen were given the mission

to develop a watch that divers could use to monitor the time remaining before

their air supply ran out. Underwater breathing apparatus was still in its early

stages and few divers ventured beneath the sea with this new system, meaning

scant opportunity to test instruments for reliability at a depth of 100 metres.

It would be a Swiss maker, Blancpain, that provided the French with a watch that

met with speciﬁcations. Named the Fifty Fathoms after its depth rating (around

91 metres), it was originally for military issue only, unlike the Rolex Submariner.

Earth’s oceans revealed themselves to be a rich source of food and raw materi-

als, in particular oil deposits. After military frogmen, saturation divers employed

by companies such as Comex, Ocean Systems and Oceaneering, which provided

deep-sea diving services, often for oil companies, were next to make use of pro-

fessional dive watches.

Time in space

Much as the ﬁrst astronauts and cosmonauts were recruited among ﬁghter pilots, the

ﬁrst space missions sourced their equipment among everyday objects. Yuri Gagarin

orbited Earth with an ordinary military-issue watch strapped to his wrist. When

NASA wanted a watch for its piloted missions, it sent an employee to a retailer’s in

downtown Houston to purchase a selection of chronographs for testing. No-one

knew exactly what the astronauts’ equipment would have to endure, and so NASA

imposed rigorous tests on all the watches before ﬁnally choosing the robust Omega

Speedmaster, a manually-wound chronograph.

The importance of a rugged, reliable, highly precise mechanical watch even in the

high-tech environment of a spacecraft was made abundantly clear when the Apollo

13 mission in 1970 came close to disaster. After an electrical failure rendered the

navigational computers inoperative, the astronauts had to manually calculate the

precise time to ﬁre the engine boost and re-enter Earth’s atmosphere at the right

angle. They did so using their Omega Speedmaster chronograph. This year marks

the 50

anniversary of an event Omega is unlikely to forget.

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 29

Stupendous 70

One number stands

out at Panerai this year,

and that number is 70.

For the 70th anniversary

of Luminor. And for the

70-year warranty that

now accompanies a

selection of its new watches.

The oceans and the fascination they hold for those ﬁghting

to preserve them; innovation and breakthrough materials;

sustainable development and the determination to protect

our planet: the frisson of adventure… it takes a special

kind of magic for a single watch brand to tick so many

boxes. Panerai is one of them. At the wheel is Jean-Marc

Pontroué, appointed two years ago to head the brand

whose Italian origins are as strong as its Swiss-powered

expertise. This experienced marathon runner has imposed

a strong and steady pace on the brand that continues to

surprise, as much with its products as for its commitment

to sustainability.

To many, Panerai could have seemed stuck in its ways,

fervently devoted to preserving the original traits of

its Luminor and Radiomir collections. This heritage,

Jean-Marc Pontroué believes, is essential to the brand’s

identity but has to be seen as looking forward, not back.

Driving the point home, one of the ﬁrst things he did in

his new role was to give a fresh face to the Submersible

— a range of robust dive watches that made such a

strong impression when introduced in 2019 they are

now the brand’s third pillar. Keeping up the momentum,

Pontroué went on to announce a partnership with Luna

Rossa, one of the challengers for the 36th America’s

Cup whose ﬁnal will be raced in Auckland, New Zealand,

in 2021. The team’s ofﬁcial watch is the Luminor Luna

Rossa GMT in titanium; its dial is covered with a thin

layer of the same high-tech sail fabric used on Luna

Rossa’s AC75 monohull — a reminder that innovation

is ingrained in the brand.

“Successful brands are the ones that give their products sub-

stance,” says Jean-Marc Pontroué. At Panerai, this quest

begins at its “Laboratorio di Idee” R&D division, where a

ﬁfteen-strong team works full-time to develop movements

and materials that will further boost the properties that

are the added value of a Panerai watch: lightness, shock-

resistance, water-resistance, resistance to temperature

changes, and reliability. This year, the brand is showing

off the results of this strategy with the introduction of

cutting-edge materials such as 3D-printed DMLS (Direct

Metal Laser Sintering) titanium, Fibratech™, obtained from

natural and eco-sustainable ﬁbres, and Carbotech™, which

is a carbon-polymer composite. The logical though no less

extraordinary conclusion is that a selection of Luminor

Marina watches made from these materials are sold with

an unprecedented 70-year warranty.

Eco-conscious

It’s no coincidence that Panerai singled out the Luminor to

showcase these latest innovations: 2020 marks 70 years

since the invention of Luminor, a tritium-based self-lu-

minous substance. To celebrate this milestone in its

history, Panerai has unveiled boutique editions of the

three Luminor Marina watches made from the afore-

mentioned futuristic materials, and their glow-in-the-

dark properties are impossible to ignore. Whereas lume

would normally be applied only to the hands and hour

markers, in this instance new- generation “X1” Super-

LumiNova™ extends to the crown guard, the ﬂange, even

the stitching on the strap. Formulated to glow brighter

and for longer, its impact is reinforced by the various

cases’ stealth colours.

Ever since Jean-Marc Pontroué took over at the helm,

Panerai has also been ﬁnding ways to create a buzz around

its watches. This includes coupling some limited editions

with a once-in-a-lifetime experience that a few lucky cus-

tomers get to share with some of the greatest contemporary

explorers. Foremost among them is extreme adventurer

Mike Horn, chosen not just for his courage and determi-

nation but also for the environmental causes he defends.

Panerai has dedicated a limited-edition Submersible to

him. Its case is made from EcoPangaea™, a high-tech

steel that uses metal repur.posed from the drive shaft of

Horn’s sailing ship. “We’ve succeeded in making a watch

that’s 40% recycled material,” notes Jean-Marc Pontroué.

“The aim is to reach 100% within the next year.” A new

adventure begins for Panerai.

Eric Dumatin

PANERAI LUMINOR LUNA ROSSA GMT. PANERA I’S NEW RELEASES FOR 2020 ARE

AT THE CUTTING EDGE OF MATERIALS SCIENCE, THE GUARANTEE OF EXCEP-

TIONAL RESILIENCE AND PERFORMANCE. THIS LUMINOR IS THE OFFICIAL WATCH

OF LUNA ROSSA, CHALLENGER OF RECORD FOR THE 36

AMERICA’S CUP. THE

TITA NIUM CASE ENCLOS ES A DI AL COVERED WITH A THIN L AYER OF THE TECHNI-

CAL SAIL CLOTH USED ON THE TEAM’S AC75 MONOHULL.

PANERAI LUMINOR MARINA TITANIO DMLS 44MM. SEVENTY YEARS AFTER THE

INTRODUCTION OF LUMINOR—THE TRITIUM-BASED SELF-LUMINOUS SUBSTANCE

THAT GAVE ITS NAME TO THE BRAND’S ICONIC LINE—, PANERAI RELEASES AN

INNOVATIVE NEW MODEL: THE LUMINOR MARINA 44MM (PAM01117) WHICH

COMES WITH A 70-YEAR WARRANTY. NEW-GENERATION SUPER-LUMINOVA X1

ON THE MARKERS AND NUMERALS GLOWS BRIGHTER AND FOR LONGER. THE

WATCH OWES ITS ASTONISHINGLY LIGHT WEIGHT (100 GRAMS INCLUDING

THE STRAP) AND EXCELLENT RESILIENCE TO ITS TITANIUM CASE. THIS IS

PRODUCED USING DIRECT METAL LASER SINTERING (DMLS), A FUTURISTIC

3D PRINTING PROCESS IN WHICH TITANIUM POWDER, SINTERED BY A HIGH

POWER FIBRE OPTIC LASER, TAKES A SOLID SHAPE THAT GROWS 30 MICRONS

(0.03 MM) AT A TIME.

JEAN-MARC PONTROUÉ,

CEO PANERAI

MIKE HORN,

AMBASSADOR

OF PANERAI

10.10am on a NYC rooop.

N 40° 45’ 31’’ W 73° 58’ 43’’.

Starting at EUR 44’000.

10.10am on a NYC rooop.

N 40° 45’ 31’’ W 73° 58’ 43’’.

Starting at EUR 44’000.

Heritage and

innovation

David Chaumet wants to get one thing straight: the brand

he’s headed since April 2019 (after eleven years at Roger

Dubuis) is not surﬁng the seemingly unstoppable trend for

vintage-inspired watches. Established in 1830 by brothers

Louis-Victor and Célestin Baume as a comptoir or trading

ofﬁce in the Swiss Jura, Baume & Mercier’s 190-year

history goes far deeper, never straying from the brand’s

ethos to “accept only perfection, only manufacture watches

of the highest quality.”

It’s a principle David Chaumet has taken to heart: “Fashion

is one thing,” he says, “heritage is something else entirely,

and it’s very important for Baume & Mercier. We are one

of the ten oldest watch brands in Switzerland in continu-

ous operation. The Hamptons we are launching this year

reﬂect the many years of history behind the brand, and

we shall continue to introduce more historic content to our

watches in the future, while never losing sight of the fact

that Baume & Mercier is a perfect balance of heritage

and innovation.”

One of the brand’s most talked-about innovations

came two years ago, when it took the wraps off its ﬁrst

in-house movement. Dubbed the Baumatic, this new-

generation calibre maintains stable precision through-

out its ﬁve days of power reserve, is unaffected by the

magnetic ﬁelds that are a part of daily life, and will run

for ﬁve years between services. It also beneﬁts from

the latest developments in movement technology and

has earned chronometer-grade certiﬁcation from the

Contrôle Ofﬁciel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), the

country’s ofﬁcial chronometer testing body. Better still,

the Baumatic was designed from the outset as a base

movement, able to accommodate additional modules

and thus paving the way for subsequent versions with

complications.

A dynamic brand

This is precisely what the brand is offering this year, with

two exciting new introductions to the Clifton line, which

puts the Baumatic movement at its centre. One is a highly

attractive day-date and moon-phase model in pink gold

or steel, while the second, in steel, offers moon-phase

and date indications. They are, says the brand, illustra-

tions of the “passion and enthusiasm that drives Baume

& Mercier, while reinforcing the substance of this clas-

sically elegant collection.” Completing the line-up is a

Clifton Baumatic date, certiﬁed by the COSC, in steel,

pink gold, or two-tone steel and pink gold. All three

versions are mounted on interchangeable straps and

provide strong additions to a range that makes good the

brand’s philosophy to produce quality, affordable time-

pieces; a gateway to luxury.

The second mainstay this year is the Hampton, which

transposes the sculptural lines and symmetry of the Art

Deco movement to its rectangular case. The 2020 new

releases come in polished steel, in three sizes. The small

versions, some with a smattering of diamonds, are ﬁtted

with a quartz movement. For the medium and large sizes,

the brand has preferred a mechanical automatic movement,

visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. Again, they

are proposed with an interchangeable steel bracelet or

leather strap, the latter in an impressive range of vibrant

colours. However, the highlight of the collection has to be

the Hampton automatic with large date, dual time zone

and day/night indicator — a reminder that form watches

account for some of Baume & Mercier’s ﬁnest hours — a

brand almost 200 years young! Eric Dumatin

BAUME & MERCIER HAMPTON QUARTZ. THE HAM P TO N WATCH TRAN SPOSES THE

SCULPTURAL LINES AND SYMMETRY OF ART DECO TO ITS RECTANGULAR CASE.

IT S PU RE FORMS COM B INE WIT H PE RFECT LY BAL A NCE D PROPO RTI ONS TO BR I NG

A SUBTLE FLUIDITY AND SOFTNESS, AND OFFER EASY READING OF THE TIME.

BAUME & MERCIER CLIFTON BAUMATIC DAY-DATE MOONPHASE. POWERED BY

THE BAUMATIC MOVEMENT, THIS LATEST ITERATION OF THE CLIFTON FEATURES

DAY AND DAT E IN DICATI ONS BY HA NDS , AS WE LL AS A MOON -PH ASE DIS PLAY AT 6

O’CLOC K . TH I S IS TH E SECON D CO MPLI CAT ION TO JO IN THE CL IFTON LINE, AFTER

TH E PE RPE T UA L CALE NDAR. THE 42 MM STEEL CASE WIT H SATIN - POLISHED DO U-

BLE-BEVELLED EDGES PAIRS BEAUTIFULLY WITH THE GRADIENT GREY DIAL. TO

RI NG THE CHANG ES , THE BLUE AL LIGATOR STRAP IS EASI LY SWAPP ED WITHOUT

ANY SPECIAL TOOLS.

BAUMATIC BM14 CALIBRE. BAUME & MERCIER MADE A STRONG MOVE IN 2018

WH EN IT PRE SEN TED TH E BAUMAT IC, IT S FIR ST IN-HO USE MOVEM ENT WHIC H MAI N -

TA I NS STA B LE PRECIS ION THR OUGHOUT ITS FIVE DAYS OF POW ER RES ERVE AN D

IS UNAFFECT ED BY MAG NETI C FIELDS. TH IS NE X T-G ENE R ATION CALIB RE, WHIC H

HAS COSC CHRONOMETER CERTIFICATION, WAS DESIGNED AS A WORKHORSE

MOVEMENT, READY TO ACCOMMODATE ADDITIONAL MODULES, AS ON THE DAY-

DATE MOONPHASE VERSION.

Clifton and Hampton

are front and centre at

Baume & Mercier, a brand

dedicated to making quality

watches that open the door

to luxury.

DAVID CHAUMET,

CEO, BAUME & MERCIER

32 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS

For Hans Wilsdorf, the

world was a living laboratory.

During the 1930s, the founder

of Rolex used the world as

a testing ground. The explorers

who ventured into the unknown

subjected Wilsdorf’s watches

to extreme conditions in the most

inhospitable regions of the globe.

As exploration for the sake

of discovery has given way to

expeditions intended to highlight

the fragility of ecosystems and

the importance of preserving

the natural world, Rolex has

continued to support explorers

on their new mission to make

this a Perpetual Planet.

In 1931 Rolex launched a revolutionary new watch: The Oyster

Perpetual. “Oyster” because of its hermetically sealed case

that protects the movement, as proven four years earlier

by a young English woman, Mercedes Gleitze, who carried

an Oyster throughout her cross-Channel swim. “Perpetual”

because of its mechanism, introduced by Rolex in 1931, that

derives an (almost) perpetual supply of energy from the move-

ments of the wrist. The combination of the two gave rise to

the ﬁrst ever water-resistant automatic wristwatch with a rotor

that turns through a full 360° — a system that proved so efﬁ-

cient it is now the basis for every modern automatic watch.

Almost a century later, the Perpetual movement has become

a symbol of reliability and continuity, a spirit that inspires

Rolex in all its endeavours. This includes the extensive means

the brand invests in environmental preservation through its

Perpetual Planet campaign, launched in 2019.

Perpetual Planet

34 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS

From exploration to preservation

Rolex’s commitment to a Perpetual Planet originated at the

same time as the Oyster Perpetual, in the 1930s, when Hans

Wilsdorf would equip adventurers and explorers with Rolex

watches for them to test in the most extreme conditions,

effectively transforming the world into a living laboratory

that would conﬁrm the reliability and ruggedness of Rolex

watches. This was a new age of adventure and who better

to put the watches through their paces than these explorers

who travelled to the ends of the earth, braving every environ-

ment and defying the elements from the highest summit to

the deepest abyss, from searing heat to icy cold.

Rolex has supported numerous expeditions, including some of

the twentieth century’s groundbreaking explorations. These

can be human endeavours but also scientiﬁc missions to

collect information with multiple applications.

For example, the British crew of the ﬁrst expedition to ﬂy

over Mount Everest, in 1933, wore Oyster watches. Twenty

years later, in 1953, Rolex was part of the historic climb that

saw Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay become the ﬁrst

people to conquer the world’s tallest summit.

From the highest peaks to the deepest oceans: in 1960 a

prototype Oyster descended into the Mariana Trench, to a

record depth of 10,916 metres. It was strapped to the hull of

the Trieste bathyscaphe, piloted by Jacques Piccard and Don

Walsh. It surfaced in perfect working order, despite the huge

pressure sustained during the descent. Beyond the exploit it

represented in watchmaking terms, the dive was of immense

scientiﬁc value as it revealed the existence of unsuspected

marine life and, in a pre-ecology age, created awareness of

the fragility of these unexplored biotopes.

Explorers are ﬁrst to set eyes on some of the planet’s unknown

and so far undisturbed natural wonders; just as importantly,

they alert us to the dangers that threaten these environments

as well as the communities who live there.

One by one, expeditions have shown how vulnerable an eco-

system can be. At a time of growing concern over the conse-

quences human development can have on the environment,

exploration has a major role in protecting the natural world. This

is the spirit behind Rolex’s commitment to a Perpetual Planet

A long-term commitment

There is nothing incidental about Rolex’s activities to support

environmental preservation. Profoundly linked to the brand’s

history and the pioneering spirit of its founder, it has spanned

the decades and takes multiple innovative forms, from sup-

porting explorers to the Rolex Awards for Enterprise, the work

of Rolex Testimonees and long-term partnerships.

Rolex lends support to numerous scientiﬁc expeditions and

pro-environmental explorations that can provide effective

solutions to protect and preserve the planet for the long term.

The Perpetual Planet initiative is remarkable for its consist-

ency, scale and long-term vision. The main elements of the

campaign — too vast to describe in detail here — are sum-

marised below.

————————

Sonam Wangchuck, 2016 laureate of the Rolex

Awards for Enterprise — Ladakh, India

Ice stupas provide water to irrigate thousands of trees.

Perpetual Planet

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 35

1 2

3 4

36 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS

Rolex Awards for Enterprise

Since 1976 the Rolex Awards for Enterprise have been pre-

sented to 150 individuals from all backgrounds (out of the

34,000 people from 191 countries who have applied) for

in-the-ﬁeld projects, whether in their early or advanced stages,

which advance human knowledge, protect cultural heritage

or help preserve natural habitats and species. Through the

Awards, Rolex has contributed to the preservation of 17 eco-

systems that are crucial for biodiversity and for the human

communities that depend on them. It has also supported

action to protect 25 endangered species, from the Amur tiger

to the great whale shark — just a few examples among many.

The 5 laureates of the

2019 Rolex Awards for Enterprise

João Campos-Silva — Brazil ( 1 )

The largest scaled freshwater fish in the world — the giant ara-

paima — is threatened with extinction. Fisheries ecologist João

Campos-Silva works closely with local associations and fishing

leaders to save the arapaima and, with it, the livelihoods, food

supply and culture of the indigenous communities who depend on

the Amazon’s rivers for survival.

Grégoire Courtine — France ( 2 )

Throughout human history, a serious spine injury has meant perma-

nent loss of the ability to walk. Now, in an advance that would have

seemed miraculous until very recently, a French medical scientist

based in Switzerland is helping paralysed patients to walk again.

Brian Gitta — Uganda

Each year around 220 million people worldwide contract malaria

and almost half a million — mostly children —die from it. If Ugandan

IT specialist Brian Gitta succeeds in delivering his new technology,

those numbers will fall. The key to successfully treating malaria is

fast diagnosis. Gitta and his team have developed a portable elec-

tronic device that gives a reliable reading in less than two minutes,

without drawing blood.

Krithi Karanth — India ( 3 )

As world population surges towards eight billion, conflicts bet ween

people and the planet’s dwindling wildlife over food, resources and

space for living are multiplying. Conservationist Krithi Karanth is

proving that solutions to this problem exist. She has, for example,

set up a toll-free number which half a million people living in 600 vil-

lages in India can call to get help filing for compensation for losses

suffered as a result of human-wildlife conflict.

Miranda Wang — Canada ( 4 )

Ever y year the world churns out 340 million tonnes of plastic, much

of which ends up choking landfills, rivers and oceans, polluting

the atmosphere, soil and water. Chinese-Canadian tech entrepre-

neur Miranda Wang has come up with a better idea for what to do

with the world’s largest waste headache — turn it into wealth using

unique chemical recycling technology developed by her company

BioCellection.

Oceans

The ocean constitutes more than 70% of the planet’s surface.

These complex, fragile and endangered biotopes are some

of the most imperfectly understood environments, yet of vital

importance to life. Rolex lends its support to multiple initia-

tives and research that will advance our understanding of the

oceans and enable more effective solutions to protect them.

Sylvia Earle’s Mission Blue — Hope Spots ( 5 )

Marine biologist Sylvia Earle is a pioneer of underwater explora-

tion and a committed advocate of ocean conser vation. She became

a Rolex Testimonee in 1982. In 2010 she initiated Mission Blue to

create Hope Spots — protected areas that are vital to the survival

of numerous communities. The number of these Hope Spots has

increased from 50 in 2014 to 112, thanks in particular to support

from Rolex. Mission Blue has set itself the ambitious goal to protect

30% of the world’s oceans by 2030. Currently, this figure is just 8% .

Our World-Underwater Scholarship Society

Since 1974 Rolex has partnered the Our World Underwater Schol-

arship Society, which works with the scientific community to make

advances in ocean conservation. Rolex awards scholarships to

young people who are considering a career in the under water world.

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME

Under the Pole ( 6 )

Since the first Deepsea Under the Pole in 2010, Rolex has supported

expeditions that push the boundaries of underwater exploration.

This pioneering expedition under the ice cap near the geographic

North Pole gathered important scientific information about the sub-

merged side of the Arctic and helped alert the world to the threat

of global warming. A new expedition, Under the Pole III, set out in

2017 and will continue until 2021. It will again explore marine eco-

systems, including by gathering samples of deep-water corals for

scientific study.

Deepsea Challenger

More than 50 years after the Trieste’s famed dive to the bot tom of the

Mariana Trench, film-maker and Rolex Testimonee James Cameron

made a solo dive to the deepest point of the world’s oceans in the

Deepsea Challenger submersible. Cameron’s expedition would

provide important new knowledge for ocean preservation. An exper-

imental Deepsea Challenge watch was attached to the submersi-

ble’s hydraulic manipulator arm. Despite the crushing 12 tonnes of

pressure on the crystal at 12,000 metres below the surface of the

Pacific Ocean, the watch emerged in perfect working order.

National Geographic Society

Since 1954 Rolex has been par tner to the National Geographic

Society whose contributions to exploration, science and envi-

ronmental preservation are world-renowned. Multiple and

far-reaching ties bind the two, most recently the launch of

the Perpetual Planet Expeditions. Through the insights of

science and by placing cutting-edge technology in some of

the most remote and least-observed regions of the globe,

the expeditions study and document the effects of climate

change on Earth’s most vital environments: mountains, rain-

forests and the oceans.

National Geographic et Rolex Perpetual Planet Expedition ( 7 )

This expedition was launched in 2019 to study the ef fects of climate

change on the Hindu Kush Himalaya glaciers. Over a billion people

depend on the glaciers for water. Here, climate scientist Mariusz

Potocki (University of Maine) is seen taking a core sample of ice

on Everest’s South Col in Nepal.

Explorer Testimonees

Since the early 1980s, numerous mountaineers, divers and

scientists have teamed up with Rolex. Some have become

Testimonees for the brand. As well as breaking records and

testing their physical endurance, many have advanced scien-

tiﬁc knowledge and forced us to open our eyes to the fra-

gility of the natural world. These explorers and adventurers

include the conservationist George Schaller, who has helped

establish more than 20 wildlife reserves around the world;

the paleoanthropologist Richard Leakey, renowned for his

fossil ﬁnds related to human evolution and his campaigning

for responsible environmental management in East Africa;

as well as mountaineers Ed Viesturs, who has scaled all 14

of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks without supplemental

oxygen, and Junko Tabei, the ﬁrst woman to reach the sum-

mit of Everest, in 1975, whose post-graduate thesis quanti-

ﬁed the impact of human waste on the mountain.

Alain Hubert ( 8 )

Belgian polar explorer and mountaineer Alain Hubert set up the Inter-

national Polar Foundation (IPF ) in 2002 to support polar science as

a key to understanding climate change. The IPF has raised funds to

build a new international research station in Antarctica that oper-

ates on renewable energies.

38 WATCH YOUR TIME RUBRIQUE

The rules have changed; extravagance and inventiveness are no longer

considered incompatible with jewellery’s most reﬁned, rigorously observed

techniques, honed through years of practice. Freed from classicism’s corset,

serious is no longer the name of the game: jewellery just wants to have

fun. Behind the scenes, inside the atelier, goldsmiths and gem-setters

continue to bring their expertise to bear in ways that instil an unexpected

frivolity into creations that are a delight to behold. This is a new awaken-

ing for jewellery, including the most storied brands.

Spring ﬂowers bloom light and airy at Van Cleef & Arpels with the aptly

named Frivole collection. Clusters of petals in polished gold or set with

diamonds form wonderful three-dimensional compositions. A similarly

graceful ﬂoral inspiration is seen at Piaget, whose Treasures collection

transforms marquise-cut diamonds into delicate foliage, with pops of colour

from rubies, sapphires or a dazzling emerald complete with its very own

“garden” — the name given to the natural inclusions that are the calling

card of this precious stone.

This lighter mood gives wings to jewellers’ creativity as they put new spins

on objects, revisit familiar tropes or reinvent motifs and symbols. The Happy

Spirit collection from Chopard takes a lighthearted view by surrounding

its carefree ﬂoating diamond with concentric gold circles, like so many

symbols of purity and perfection. And symbols are something jewellers

adore. Talisman or charm, Qeelin’s Wulu rings borrow the curved shape

of a Wu Lou gourd or calabash, an auspicious symbol, referred to as the

“giver of life” in traditional Chinese culture. Insets of jade, red agate, onyx

or mother-of-pearl come alive on the hand.

Jewelled

delights

-------

Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon

Jewellery takes a walk on the

light side with precious pieces

of fun that play with symbols

and take liberties with familiar

motifs. Bouquets of flowers

nestle against the skin, threads

of gold are woven with pearls and

coloured gems while diamonds

dance… in absolute freedom.

PIAGET TREASURES. A HYMN TO THE JEWELS BESTOWED ON US BY NATURE, PIAGET'S

TREASURES COLLECTION IS AN INVITATION TO BECOME LOST IN THE "GARDEN" OF

THIS STUNNING EMERALD, MADE ALL THE MORE SPLENDID BY A WHITE GOLD

MOUNT SET WITH MARQUISE-CUT DIAMONDS.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS FRIVOLE COLLECTION.

THE FRIVOLE COLLECTION BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

IS A BOUQUET OF LIGHT AGAINST THE SKIN. GOLD

FLOWERS MAKE UP THESE POETIC JEWELLERY

PIECES, GORGED WITH SUN.

All jewels are intoxicating.

—

Paul Éluard ( 1895 — 1952 )

JEWELLERY WATCH YOUR TIME 39

Symbols can take other forms too, such as the style signa-

tures we instantly equate with a brand. Chanel takes lib-

erties with the famous tweed of its braid-trimmed suits to

give life to a collection of forty-ﬁve High Jewellery pieces

that interpret the softness and texture of this iconic fabric.

Special techniques were used to create articulations and

intertwine gold with diamonds, pearls and sapphires that

reproduce tweed’s ﬂecked surface in spectacular pieces,

each unique. At Louis Vuitton, the brand’s signature capital L

and capital V are the starting point for a boldly graphic col-

lection of jewellery. The two initials are stacked, overlapped

or locked together to create pieces with a distinct archi-

tectural quality that are also gender-ﬂuid. Neither entirely

masculine nor manifestly feminine, they bend the rules of

classical jewellery design. Magniﬁcent!

CHANEL TWEED CORDAGE.

CHANEL WRITES A NEW CHAPTER IN THE

HISTORY OF TWEED WITH A COLLECTION OF

45 HIGH JEWELLERY PIECES, INSPIRED BY

MADEMOISELLE'S FAVOURITE FABRIC. SHOWN

HERE, A TWEED CORDAGE PENDANT IN YELLOW

GOLD, WHITE GOLD, DIAMONDS AND PEARLS.

LOUIS VUITTON LV VOLT.

THE LV VOLT JEWELLERY COLLECTION

REVOLVES AROUND THE BRAND’S

CAPITAL L AND V MONOGRAM.

A METAPHOR FOR MOVEMENT AND

SPEED, THE QUINTESSENTIAL INITIALS

COMBINE INTO BOLD ARCHITECTURAL

COMPOSITIONS.

CARTIER [SUR]NATUREL.

NATURE LAYS A CREATIVE PATH FOR THIS

COLLECTION THAT TRAVELS FROM FIGURATIVE

TO ABSTRACT. WATER, FLORA AND FAUNA ENTER

A SUPERNATURAL REALM, MADE VISIBLE BY THE

NATURAL WORLD’S MOST BEAUTIFUL, MOST

MYSTERIOUS ELEMENTS: GEMSTONES.

QEELIN WULU.

THE FIRST COLLECTION FROM QEELIN, WULU IS

BRIMMING WITH POSITIVE ENERGY. THIS TALISMAN

BRINGS THE PROMISE OF GOOD FORTUNE TO THOSE

WHO WEAR IT. ITS CURVES ARE THOSE OF A WU

LOU CALABASH; A SYMBOL OF LONGEVITY AND

PROSPERITY IN CHINESE CULTURE.

CHOPARD HAPPY SPIRIT.

LIKE A GOOD LUCK CHARM,

THE HAPPY SPIRIT RING FROM

CHOPARD RETURNS IN A STUN-

NINGLY SIMPLE DESIGN. CONCEN-

TRIC CIRCLES IN ROSE GOLD AND

WHITE GOLD FRAME THE UNPRE-

DICTABLE MOVEMENTS OF A

FREE-FLOATING DIAMOND.

HERMÈS KELLY.

SINCE THE CREATION OF THE KELLY BAG IN THE

1930S, THE TOURET CLASP HAS BECOME AN

EMBLEMATIC SIGNATURE OF THE MAISON. THIS KELLY

BRACELET IN ALLIGATOR AND PINK GOLD ADORNED

WITH 559 BLACK SPINELS OF 6.65 CARATS OFFERS A

MAGNIFICENT INTERPRETATION OF IT.

BVLGARI SERPENT

MISTERIOSI INTRECCIATI.

INSPIRED BY PIECES FROM

THE BVLGARI ARCHIVES, THIS

TIMEPIECE FEATURES A DESIGN

THAT COMBINES SERPENTI WITH

BEADS TO CREATE A STRIKING

EFFECT. THIS PIECE OF HIGH-

JEWELLERY IS A SECRET WATCH

IN 18KT ROSE GOLD WITH

INTERWEAVING BRACELET