F I N E WATC H E S M AG A Z I N E The nature of time As seen by Audemars Piguet Blancpain Breguet Bvlgari Cartier Chanel Chopard Grand Seiko Hublot Longines Panerai Richard Mille Rolex TAG Heuer Ulysse Nardin S P ECI A L A DV ER T IS I N G S U P P L EM EN T TO THE NEW YORK TIMES USA EDITION SUNDAY OCTOB ER 30 2022 www watchyourtime com
BREGUET COM BREGUET BREGUET REINE DE NAPLES 8918
B L A N CPA I N COLLECTION B L A N CPA I N Photograph Laurent Ballesta Gombessa Project Fifty Fathoms RAISE AWARENESS TRANSMIT OUR PASSION HELP PROTECT THE OCEAN www blancpain ocean commitment com N E W YO RK 697 F I F T H AVE N U E BE T W E E N 54 T H 55 T H S T RE E T 212 396 1735 L A S VE G A S T H E F O RU M S H O P S AT C A E S A RS PA L A C E 702 369 1735
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES watchyourtime com PUBLISHER FOUNDER CHRISTIAN LLAVALL UBACH MANAG ING D IREC TOR ISABELLE BOUDR INGH IN WATCH COMMUNICATION SPECIALIST ERIC DUMATIN WATCH YOUR TIME Our cover by David Bellemere EDITORIAL DIRECTOR CHRISTOPHE ROULE T WRITERS CAROL BESLER ROBERTA NA AS CHRISTOPHE ROULE T TR ANSL ATION AMA A TR ADUCTION ART DIRECTION VINCENT FESSELE T L A CASAGR ANDE GENE VA PHOTOENGR AVING BOMBIE GENE VA PRINTED IN EU USA EDITION SUNDAY OCTOBER 30 2022 This advertising supplement is produced by Editions Temps International and did not involve the reporting or editorial staff of The New York Times REPRODUCTION EVEN PARTIAL OF MATERIAL PUBLISHED IN WATCH YOUR TIME IS STRICTLY PROHIBITED ALL RIGHTS RESERVED I N TH E U SA A LL I M AG E S PH OTOS A N D ILLUSTRATIONS REPRODUCED IN THIS EDITORIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT ARE THE RE SPONSIBILIT Y OF CARTIER THE WATCH BRANDS 11 Green wave A vision of eternity 17 LVMH Making the Watches Jewelry Division one of the finest in the LVMH group TAG HEUER BVLGARI 20 22 Avant garde The Eco Generation is coming 26 PANER AI BREGUET 29 Green energy 33 Watchmaking excellence CHOPARD BLANCPAIN Tempo Virtuoso 34 36 On the wings of time Sustainable watchmaking 38 ROLEX HUBLOT A Success Story BVLGARI Refined elegance 41 43 44 Preserving our planet with no time to lose JAEGER LECOULTRE MEMOVOX TIMER SINCE ITS L AUNCH IN 1950 THE JAEGER LECOULTRE MEMOVOX HAS The new gamble 46 BECOME A REFERENCE FOR AL ARM WATCHES WITH THE ADDITION OF USEFUL AND INNOVATIVE FUNCTIONS THAT LED TO THE CRE ATION OF VARIOUS MEMOVOX MODELS OVER THE DECADES IN 2020 THE MANUFACTURE S ENGINEERS DE VELOPED A BR AND NEW AL ARM CHANEL LONGINES Innovative Caliber 5 49 Elegant Attitude Across 190 Years 51 David Bellemere was born and raised in Paris He discovered photography during his high school years which led him to study visual arts after his Baccalaureate While in college David caught the eye of various French magazines that commissioned him in his early 20s After graduation David decided to combine his two passions photography and Asia Over the next 2 years he traveled throughout Asia regarding his time there as the most influential in his photographic style to this day David is recognized for his unique light colors and composition always celebrating beauty The adjectives most often used to describe his pictures are sensual delicate and feminine David currently contributes to the following magazines Vogue Paris Vogue China Vogue US Vogue Spain Vogue Turkey Marie Claire Italy Harpers Bazaar UK Muse Numero Paris Treats etc His commercial clients include Dior Lancel Rochas Lanvin Guerlain Azzaro Parfum Herm s Chanel Guess Ba sh Lancaster Maje Eres Victoria s Secret Charles Jourdan Zadig Voltaire Free People La Perla Net A Porter SE T TING MECHANISM THE MEMOVOX TIMER AF TER A FIRST MODEL IN STAINLESS STEEL JAEGER LECOULTRE IS PRESENTING A NEW INTERPRE TATION IN PINK GOLD THE TIMER DAVID BELLEMERE PHOTOGR APHE Let there be light 52 K ADER BENNACER ASSISTANT PHOTOGR APHE CELINE BOURRE AU ST YLISTE ALLOWS THE WATCH S USER TO SE T THE AL ARM CORINNE FOUE T MAKE UP HAIR ST YLISTE ACCORDING TO THE NUMBER OF HOURS THAT MUST PASS BEFORE IT RINGS THE USER CAN ALSO SE T THE AL ARM IN THE TR ADITIONAL WAY TO RING AT A PRECISE TIME THE T WO INDICATORS ARE LINKED WHICHE VER ME THOD IS CHOSEN THE OTHER INDICATOR AUTOMATICALLY MOVES TO THE CORRESPONDING POSITION CLOTHILDE MERCIER MANNEQUIN SEIKO A watchmaking consecration AUDEMARS PIGUET ULYSSE NARDIN PIAGET 55 A 50 year reign Freak Co Extraleganza 58 56 56 CORNELIA R AVIOT PRODUCTION STABLES HAR AS DU PAT Y HT TP DANY L AHAYE LUSITANO COM COVER FRINGED CAMEL COAT OVERSHIRT ST YLE MA JE SCARF TOOL BEIGE FELT HAT STE TSON HIGH WAISTED JE ANS G R ARD DAREL FE ATHER RING VINTAGE
11 WATCH YOUR TIME USA EDITORIAL SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES Green wave PA N E R A I O ver the last few decades contemporary watchmaking has ingeniously transformed the watch a common everyday object into a symbol of expertise capable of fostering creativity and letting us keep dreaming But today the watchmaking brands want to take things further In other words the product however perfect it may be is no longer enough Nowadays it is the brand that counts and therefore its desire to present a responsible profile in line with preoccupations of the century The environment in which we live has seen an evolution that is sufficiently alarming to demand prompt action At all levels And especially at the industrial level If it seems obvious that timepieces convey a sense of eternity intrinsically conceived as highly sustainable products there is no doubt that the materials used particularly the gemstones and precious metals along with the means of production product packaging and the promotion campaigns have become indispensable factors to take into consideration where the objectives of sustainable development are concerned In this context one can only welcome the initiatives that are beginning to hatch The Fashion Pact initiated in 2019 comes to mind a pact that now involves around sixty firms owners of more than 250 brands in a threepronged campaign the fight against global warming the restoration of biodiversity and the protection of the oceans Out of this came the Watch Jewellery Initiative officially launched in Geneva during the Watches and Wonders 2022 trade fair Under the guidance of the Kering and Richemont groups via Cartier this initiative takes on board ambitious scientifically determined climate objectives with measures aimed at protecting biodiversity and a desire to promote innovation as a partial solution to the problems Chanel and Montblanc have already joined Cartier and the Kering group brands namely Gucci Watches Boucheron Pomellato Dodo and Qeelin HUBLOT BECOMES THE PARTNER OF THE POL AR POD EXPEDITION A ZEROEMISSION ECOLOGICAL VESSEL DESIGNED BY EXPLORER JEAN LOUIS ETIENNE TO E XPLORE THE SOUTHERN OCE AN WHICH SURROUNDS ANTARCTICA ULYSSE NARDIN SUPPORTS FRED BUYLE S INITIATIVE TO MONITOR BLUE extend your international limited warranty for up to 8 years on panerai com SHARKS ECOSYSTEM USING NON INVASIVE POP UP SATELLITE TAGS This initiative which seeks to federate the industry majors in order to have a maximum impact must not however mask the determination of each brand to add its own stone to the edifice Here we think of the recycling of materials at Panerai and Ulysse Nardin and Rolex s Perpetual Planet project a programme that supports initiatives helping to push back the frontiers of knowledge improve living conditions and protect the environment we also think of the carbon neutrality at Oris and of the advances made towards replacing animal leather with new plant based materials at Cartier IWC and Herm s and then there are Chopard s ethical gold Hublot s provision of aid to scientific expeditions Blancpain s creation of protected ocean zones Carl F Bucherer s saving of species Breguet s support for efforts in tackling the plastic pollution of the oceans etc It would be impossible to list them all here these sustainable decisions show that today s watchmakers are committed to a social and environmental path dictated particularly by a moral obligation towards the client and their responsibility as luxury sector players leading the way Given the sheer scale of the tasks to be accomplished in order to leave future generations with a world that can still awaken dreams watch on wrist it is certainly just the beginning of a long winded process necessarily destined to gain momentum But the scene has been set The green wave is an incoming tide Christophe Roulet
CHANEL CHANEL
Elegance is an attitude Reg Jean Page LONGINES LONGINES THE LONGINES MASTER COLLECTION
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 17 A vision of eternity At Cartier the number of innovations is matched only by the strength of their appeal A desirability that touches all generations associated with a design culture masterfully cultivated over more than a century JAEGER ARNAUD CARRE Z SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT CHIEF MARKE TING OFFICER CARTIER INTERNATIONAL REVERSO TRIBUTE For Cartier time is a playground The brand couldn t put it better During the last Watches and Wonders trade fair in Geneva last spring Cartier ran a new demonstration with all the panache that we have come to know of the brand Take a Coussin watch But wait not just any one No a Coussin watch from the new Cartier collection with all the appearance of a jewel fully paved with coloured stones Nothing out of the ordinary one might say beyond the preciousness of the object except that when you handle it you find that the case is soft and flexible like a squeezable marshmallow between the fingers The secret This sensory watch developed by the Cartier Manufacture s research and innovation laboratory is in fact composed of gold mesh that interlinks to weave a squared framework into which Cartier has built an innovative element This enables the case to deform and expand again to resume its original form The difficulty of this work unprecedented at Cartier is exacerbated by the wide variety of diameters and shades of the stones It is further complicated by the fact that the watch is flexible obliging the gem setter to use a resin to immobilize it to begin with before later freeing it up Hardly have the surprise and sense of wonder subsided when another truly staggering piece makes its appearance marrying transparency with kinetic art Its name Cartier Masse Myst rieuse Its concept combines two of the brand s watchmaking signatures the mysterious movement which appeared in Cartier clocks during the decade that followed 1910 and skeletonization However the brand didn t just content itself with this simple combination After eight years of development it presents the 9801 MC caliber which has set itself apart by gathering all its components within the watch s skeletonized oscillating weight making this assembly appear to float weightless while indeed compensating for the effects of the earth s gravity on the timekeeping In the centre an ultrasophisticated differential system borrowed from the car industry has been built into the movement to prevent the time display from being displaced by the weight the brand explains A technical feat that comes to life on the least movement made by the wearer and displays the passing hours which are depicted by the hands hovering in empty space Technically it is the most complex piece ever proposed by the Cartier Manufacture The design culture Thanks to the strategy put in place by Cyrille Vigneron since he took charge at Cartier six years ago the brand s appeal has steadily grown points out Arnaud Carrez Senior Vice President and Chief Marketing Officer of Cartier International To its credit Cartier can indeed count on its watchmaking heritage of legendary models where technology has always been at the service of design and not the other way round Shaped watches elegant watches often for women but not only watches of harmonious proportions these are the models that the brand decided to build on with the design culture as a key concept that will affirm itself more and more as the new collections emerge If technological haute horlogerie once clearly championed by the Manufacture continues to provoke discussion with exceptional watches like the Masse Myst rieuse it has been scaled down to preserve the exclusive character peculiar to the brand Undeniably Cartier has managed to design objects that have lasted over the ages at once instantly recognizable and bearers of the brand s heritage They all share a vision that is seen in the purity of outline precision of form harmony of proportions and preciousness of detail Eric Dumatin COUSSIN DE CARTIER IN A FLE XIBLE VERSION CARTIER HAS ONCE ENABLES THE CASES TO DEFORM AND E XPAND AGAIN TO RESUME FINAL MOVEMENT THE HANDS OF THIS WATCH FLOAT IN THE SPACE OF AGAIN CAUSED A STIR WITH THIS FLE XIBLE VERSION OF ITS NEW THEIR ORIGINAL FORM THE CASE WITHOUT BEING LINKED TO ANY GE AR TR AIN E VEN BE T COUSSIN DRE AMED UP BY THE MANUFACTURE S RESE ARCH L ABO CARTIER MASSE MYST RIEUSE THE INNOVATIVE CALIBER 9801 MC TER THE ENTIRE MOVEMENT APPE ARS TO BE WEIGHTLESS ALL THE R ATORY THE CASES OF THESE T WO LIMITED EDITIONS CONSIST OF HOUSED IN THIS NE W CARTIER MAKES IT POSSIBLE TO AVOID THE COMPONENTS RECEIVING THE MOVEMENT S ENERGY THE TR ANSMIS GOLD MESH THAT INTERLINKS TO WE AVE A SQUARED FR AMEWORK EFFECTS OF GR AVIT Y ON THE TIMEKEEPING IT TOOK FIVE DIFFERENT SION AND THE REGUL ATION ARE BUILT INTO THE ROTOR ITSELF SKEL I N TO W H I C H CA R T I ER H AS B U I LT A N I N N OVAT I V E E L E M EN T T H AT CONSTRUCTIONS AND T WO PROTOT YPE VERSIONS TO DEVELOP THE ETONIZED IN ORDER TO MAKE THE FASCINATING WORKINGS VISIBLE
TA G TA G
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 20 21 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES Making the Watches Jewelry Division one of the finest in the LVMH group ST PHANE BIANCHI CEO OF THE LVMH WATCHES JEWELRY DIVISION On this question St phane Bianchi CEO of the LVMH Watches Jewelry Division since 2020 is convinced and above all determined With constant growth over the last two years he is well on the way to meeting his objective With its six brands Bvlgari Chaumet Fred Hublot TAG Heuer and Zenith LVMH s Watches Jewelry Division is one of the industry leaders It s a huge opportunity being part of a group like LVMH which owns the finest brands in the world states St phane Bianchi who joined LVMH in 2018 and has been CEO of the Watches Jewelry Division since 2020 I find it absolutely fabulous Being part of LVMH provides us a unique opportunity to continue developing our brands while at the same time bringing into play the synergies within the group that is now a leader in a highly competitive sector with sales worth 9 billion euros It is also LVMH s third business sector in a Group that recorded total sales of 64 billion euros in 2021 44 Sustained growth Suffice it to say that until now this arrangement has only proven successful with the Division experiencing exponential growth If LVMH Watches Jewelry is to be judged by the results from last year it is evident that the Division is in great shape leaving the whirlwind of the pandemic well behind it In other words LVMH s watchmaking and jewelry brands saw an exceptional increase in sales of 40 last year compared with 2020 The comparison with 2019 an excellent pre pandemic year for LVMH is just as flattering with a sales increase of almost 10 If we take into account Tiffany Co which was acquired at the beginning of 2021 and is still managed independently the Group has a Watches Jewelry business The Division is still in an extremely dynamic phase with sustained growth of 20 over the first quarter of 2022 at 2 3 billion euros and this growth is expected to last We cultivate an entrepreneurial frame of mind infused by Mr Bernard Arnault continues St phane Bianchi Everything is based on trust This is the company culture that I wanted to foster in the Division a culture that encourages risk taking within the brands while leaving plenty of room for decision making freedom Each brand is in a posi tion to make full use of its potential and tackle the challenges that come its way And the challenges we see coming up are of those that any executive would dream of taking on As he says so well with the incredible demand that can be seen in the markets it is up to each brand to position itself and maintain the difficult balance between the urgent need to respond to the pentup demand while providing a desirable product crafted by teams that remain highly motivated Team spirit The Division s Maisons can capitalize on highly complementary profi les If Hublot loves art and football TAG Heuer breathes its avantgarde spirit into traditional watchmaking and its increasingly bold partnerships while Zenith has been cultivating the art of chronometry for a century and a half And while Chaumet maintains its reputation of the Parisian jeweler since 1780 ever so elegant and refined Bvlgari shines with a thousand lights beneath its Roman star and Fred causes a sensation with its creative exuberance However succinct these brief descriptions are they nonetheless show the wealth and variety of fields of expression that have been perfectly identified for each respective brand While each brand maintains its individuality we must always keep in mind the cohesion of the whole continues St phane Bianchi The more the brands are cohesive and complementary the more competitive the Division will be in the markets This idea HUBLOT CLASSIC FUSION CHRONOGRAPH SHEPARD FAIREY FOR THEIR TAG HEUER CARRERA PORSCHE CHRONOGRAPH EARLIER THIS YEAR IN BVLGARI ALUMINIUM THE BVLGARI ALUMINUM 2020 REKINDLES THE SECOND COLL ABOR ATION A LIMITED EDITION OF 50 PIECES ARTIST FINLAND TAG HEUER AND PORSCHE UNVEILED THE NEWEST ITERATION OF FL AME OF THE FIRST GENER ATION MODELS INTRODUCED IN 1998 IT SHEPARD FAIREY AND HUBLOT HAVE CHOSEN A CLASSIC FUSION CHRO THEIR CARRERA X PORSCHE LIMITED EDITION THE NEW VERSION OF THE SPEAKS A UNIVERSAL L ANGUAGE THAT GOES BEYOND GENDER AGE NOGR APH AS THEIR STARTING POINT FAIREY HAS CREATED A DESIGN WATCH INCORPOR ATES R ACING YELLOW ACCENTS THE SAME PAINT TRENDS ER AS OR SOCIAL PROFILES MORE THAN TWENTY YEARS HAVE THAT REPRESENTS A MANDALA THIS ORNAMENTAL SYMBOL OF HARMONY CODE AS THE BER CAYMAN THE BLACK TONES INCLUDING THE DLC PASSED AND THE COLLECTION IS AS FRESH AS E VER TWENTY Y EARS AND THE CYCLES OF LIFE IS POLISHED AND ENGRAVED IN TITANIUM THE COATING HAVE BECOME DEEPER ALLOWING THE YELLOW TO POP ON THE AGO THE BVLGARI ALUMINUM WAS PART OF THE MOST IMPORTANT SAME MATERIAL THAT IS USED FOR THE 45MM CASE AND THE BEZEL NEW WATCH AND THE DIAL TEXTURE HAS BEEN UPDATED TO ASPHALT MOMENTS OF AN ENTIRE GENERATION NOW A NEW GENERATION AWAITS is the real source of inspiration that makes the Watches Jewelry Division one of LVMH s finest According to him this objective is achievable by establishing and intensifying the relationships with the customer and by building strong teams We are entering an era of ultra customization he explains And for this reason we really must take advantage of this environment to rethink the relationships we can build with watch and jewelry enthusiasts Nowadays one has to think in terms of customer experience an experience where the product certainly has a central place but not an exclusive one The brand and its values must be embodied and shared with our clients In this context my role consists of developing and expanding our teams around these subjects and coordinating the strategies of the brands so that each one expresses its identity and develops its own alchemy of success The modern times philosopher s stone Eric Dumatin
22 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS TAG Heuer caused a stir at the last Watches and Wonders trade fair with synthetic diamonds and a solar powered movement In keeping with the initials included in the brand name which stand for Avant Garde Technologies SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES Avant garde FR D RIC ARNAULT CEO OF TAG HEUER TAG Heuer takes a delight in coming up with surprises Those that catch you unprepared or even make you start We have already seen ample proof of this notably in 2016 with the first TAG Heuer Carrera equipped with the Heuer 02T movement an industrial tourbillon positioned in a highly competitive segment TAG Heuer couldn t reasonably stop at that At the Watches and Wonders trade fair in Geneva the brand pulled off another stunt just where it was least expected in the fields of synthetic stones and solar energy It was thus with a gem set watch that TAG Heuer created the sensation in Geneva Already original if we consider the world of a brand that exudes an odour of good engine oil with a race counter in place of the palpitater In other words the image that springs to mind is rather that of Steve McQueen running towards his Porsche in his racing suit this car firm having been a partner of the brand since 2021 than that of a diva in evening dress This is why it was a TAG Heuer Carrera the brand s emblematic chronograph since 1963 that was chosen for this conspicuous incursion into the world of laboratory diamonds with the new TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma A major turning point in both the company s history and that of the watchmaking industry exclaims Fr d ric Arnault CEO of TAG Heuer since July 2020 This revolutionary technology allows full control of design of both light play and materials while the versatility of the synthetic diamonds opens up possibilities for creativity without limit From the land to the sea In concrete terms the synthetic diamonds used here are obtained by chemical vapour deposition technology that involves the use of high pressure and temperature to obtain diamond growth from a gaseous mixture containing precursors of carbon and hydrogen Consequently thanks to this type of stone we can innovate and experiment with this exceptional material which opens up a new field of possibilities for the designers watchmakers and engineers declares Edouard Mignon chief innovation officer with TAG Heuer and for LVMH s Watches Jewellery division Thus the case in anodized aluminium is gem set in a completely new way while the crown is entirely sculpted from a block of diamond The dial one of the principal features of this model is made of polycrystalline diamond consisting of crystals fashioned in successive layers to create a unique morphology In another characteristic feature the watch is equipped with the Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph caliber with a balance spring in carbon coming from the same manufacturing process as the laboratory diamonds But if TAG Heuer deliberately looks to the future on questions of technology it nonetheless keeps both feet on the ground with its TAG Heuer Aquaracer collection devoted to sport and outdoor adventure which has been one of the brand s fields of predilection for more than 40 years Having given a new lease of life to its TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 in 2021 the brand continued its reflection this year with the Professional 200 in order to ensure a strong presence in the chic and shock outdoor watch market segment which is currently the rage And here too once again the brand managed to come up with a surprising proposition its TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph This new model represents an important step for TAG Heuer because it is the brand s first timepiece to use the solar caliber TH50 00 developed and manufactured exclusively for TAG Heuer by La Joux Perret based in La Chaux de Fonds adds Fr d ric Arnault Christophe Roulet TAG H E U E R CAR R ER A P L AS MA T H E N E W TAG H EU E R CA R R E R A TAG H EU E R AQUAR ACER PROFESSIONAL 20 0 SOL ARGR APH THE LUMINOUS MARKINGS A SAPPHIRE GL ASS AND A DOUBLY SECURED PL ASMA IS DISTINGUISHED BY THE CHOICE OF L ABOR ATORY DIA AQ UA R AC E R PAV E D T H E WAY F O R A N E W C AT EG O RY O F H I G H CLASP FOR THIS NEW AQUAR ACER PROFESSIONAL 200 SOLARGR APH M O N DS TO A DO R N TH E M O D EL TH I S TEC H N O LOGY M A K ES N E W PERFORMANCE AND VERSATI LE WRIST WATCHES RELIABLE IN ALL WATCH THE BR AND PROPOSES A SOL AR POWERED MOVEMENT AND DESIGNS AND PL AYING WITH INNOVATIVE MATERIALS POSSIBLE THE CONDITIONS EVEN THE MOST EXTREME THE R ANGE HAS SIX DISTIN THE LUM INESCENT ELEMENTS PRESENT ON THE WATCH ARE ALSO DIAL IN POLYCRYSTALLINE DIAMOND IS ONE OF THE MA JOR CHAR AC GUISHING TR AITS A UNIDIRECTIONAL ROTATING BE ZEL A SCREWED CHARGED UP BY THE SUNLIGHT THE BE ZEL DIAL AND HANDS ARE IN TERISTICS OF THIS WATCH CROWN WATER RESISTANCE TO A DEP TH OF AT LE AST 200 ME TRES FACT COATED WITH SUPER LUMINOVA RM RM UP 01 FERRARI Ultra flat manual winding calibre 1 75 millimetres thin 45 hour power reserve 10 Baseplate and bridges in grade 5 titanium Patented ultra flat escapement Function selector Limited edition of 150 pieces A Racing Machine On The Wrist
HUBLOT T H E A R T O F BIG BANG UNICO 18K King Gold and ceramic case In house UNICO chronograph movement HUBLOT F U S I O N
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES 27 WATCH YOUR TIME USA AMBASSADORS o carol besler The Eco Generation is coming Watch brands are putting themselves behind eco heroes in a race against time to save the planet BREGUET T YPE X XI 3815 BREGUE T HAS COMPLE TED ITS COLLECTION OF AVIATION CHRONOGR APHS WITH THIS DECIDEDLY SPORT Y LOOKING T YPE X XI 3815 THE MODEL OP TED FOR A 42 MM CASE IN TITANIUM WATER RESISTANT TO 100 ME TRES WITH A FINELY FLUTED CASE MIDDLE THE BIDIRECTIONALLY ROTATING BE ZEL ALSO IN TITANIUM WITH A 60 MINUTE SCALE ON BL ACK L ACQUER EMPHASIZES THE TIMEPIECE S LOOK OF INTREPIDIT Y The concept of watch brand ambassadors began sometime in the 1960s with Paul Newman and Steve McQueen guys whose dual status as movie stars and race car drivers was irresistible to the watchwearing public The concept progressed from there to include athletes musicians astronauts and an assortment of adventurers the heroes of their times The heroes of today however are the men and women helping to save our planet and watch brands are learning how essential it is to get to know them and their causes not just to gain respect among customers for supporting them but to avoid bad publicity for not supporting them Some of these modern hero watch ambassadors are purely eco prophets photographers and filmmakers shedding light on environmental issues Others are eco warriors doing serious science or inventing ways to help conserve and protect the environment Many are adventurers who have morphed into environmentalists conducting research and raising awareness in the process of adventuring Take Montblanc ambassador N atur e is in it s elf a living whole Georg Wilhelm Friedrich Hegel 17 7 0 18 31 who not only set a new depth record of 10 928 meters 35 843 feet in the Mariana Trench but has done extensive research in terms of mapping discovering new species and discovering new subterranean features during his Five Deeps expedition to the deepest point in each of the five oceans SANTOS DE CARTIER SINCE ITS REINTRODUCTION IN 2018 THE SANTOS DE CARTIER HAS BEEN THE BEST E X AMPLE OF THE SPORT Y CHIC WATCH A BLEND OF TR ADITIONAL DESIGN ROBUSTNESS AND INFORMALIT Y SINCE THEN IT HAS SEEN A NUMBER OF VARIATIONS NOT WITHOUT A TOUCH OF BOLDNESS THE SANTOS DE CARTIER NOW COMES IN A SET OF WIDE MODELS 39 8 MM X 47 5 MM Nirmal Nims Purja a mountaineer who became the first to climb Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen last May Strapped to his wrist for the journey was a specially made Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen LE290 a watch with no oxygen inside the case to keep the dial fog free under extreme conditions Purja is notable for having climbed all 14 of the world s mountain peaks above 26 000 feet in a record time of six months and six days Along the way he documented the issue of overcrowding on Mount Everest shedding light on the environmental impact of summiting and that helped to bring about regulatory changes on climbing Everest Omega has been a strong supporter of adventurer and ecologist Victor Vescovo Smaller brands too Blancpain is similarly on board with Laurent Bellesta a diver biologist and underwater photographer whose Gombessa expeditions have involved studying rare and often previously inaccessible marine ecosystems At the moment Bellesta is exploring the coral rings of the Mediterranean Last year he was named Wildlife Photographer of the Year in an annual international wildlife photography competition held by the Natural History Museum of London His winning image entitled Creation is the world s first to capture an event that happens once a year under a full moon the mating frenzy of 18 000 groupers gathered in Fakarava French Polynesia Blancpain s sponsorship of Bellesta is linked to the brand s Fifty Fathoms line a pillar WITH A NEW BLUE PVD COATED BE ZEL AND A NEW DIAL DECOR ATED WITH A NOVEL STRIPED MOTIF THE QUICKSWITCH SYSTEM ALLOWS E ASY SWITCHING BET WEEN A STAINLESS STEEL BR ACELET AND A BLUE RUBBER STR AP THE WATCH IS STILL DRIVEN BY THE CALIBER 1847 MC A CL ASSIC AND RELIABLE MOVEMENT THAT TICKS AT 4 HZ AND CARRIES 42 HOURS OF POWER RESERVE
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES of the brand that was introduced 70 years ago Also under the Swatch Group umbrella Breguet supports Race for Water an organization dedicated to the preservation of water and the oceans enlisting its founder Marco Simeone as an ambassador Part of the deal is funding Simeone s research which involves not only awareness but prevention stopping plastic from entering the oceans and recycling plastic into energy Smaller brands are also joining the eco brigade British watchmaker Bremont just signed up surfer Laird Hamilton as an ambassador to help shed light on another of the brand s partnerships its support of Bimini Shark Lab an ocean conservation and research station in the Bahamas The lab s goal AMBASSADORS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 28 is to advance knowledge of the biology of marine animals particularly sharks and rays Linked to the partnership is Bremont s Waterman Apex a new 500 meter dive watch with a helium valve for deep dives a GMT function and date window The dial and rotor are decorated with a subtle shark fin motif It will of course be worn by surfer Hamilton Hublot has long been big on teaming up with sports heroes but recently dovetailed into conservation in some cases overlapping the two areas Its latest cause is an animal conservation organization run by former England International cricket champ Kevin Pietersen called Saving Our Rhinos Africa India SORAI an Australian charity supporting rhinoceros conservation An ecology game Hublot also takes to the seas supporting ambassador Louis Etienne the first man to reach the North Pole alone His zero emission powered by six wind turbines rather than an engine Polar Pod vessel was designed to explore the Southern Ocean at Antarctica It drifts with the Antarctic circumpolar current collecting a continuous stream of data on biodiversity the impact of human pollution and the atmosphere ocean interactions that control the climate Luxury brands have a large role to play in implementing sustainable measures to protect the environment says Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe Brands that choose to collaborate with the scientific community Green energy JEAN MARC PONTROU CEO OF PANERAI I II IIII III V VI I ULYSSE NARDIN BLAST MOONSTRUCK THE BL AST MOONSTRUCK III AUDEMARS PIGUET CODE 11 59 PERPETUAL CALENDAR AUDEMARS V CHOPARD ALPINE EAGLE XL CHRONO FOR THE FIRST TIME THE REPRODUCES THE ROTATION OF THE MOON THE APPARENT MOVEMENT PIGUET IS LAUNCHING A NEW VARIATION OF ITS MODEL CODE 11 59 PER SPORT Y CHIC ALPINE E AGLE COLLECTION IS RELE ASING ITS FLYBACK OF THE SUN AROUND THE E ARTH AS SEEN FROM THE GROUND AND A PETUAL CALENDAR COMBINING A CASE IN 18 CT GREY GOLD A DIAL IN FUNCTION CHRONOGR APH ON A CONTEMPOR ARY AND SPORT Y RUB REPRESENTATION OF THE TIDES CONCEIVED TO RENDER THE DANCE BLUE AVENTURINE AND A TEXTURED RUBBER STR AP THIS CONTEMPO BER STR AP CERTIFIED AS A CHRONOME TER ITS FLYBACK FUNCTION BETWEEN THE SUN AND MOON INTELLIGIBLE THE GEOCENTRIC DISPLAY RARY TIMEPIECE CONTINUES THE LONG HISTORY OF CALENDAR WATCHES AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT THE CHOPARD 03 05 C LED TO THE FILING OF THE BL AST MOONSTRUCK IS E ASY TO GR ASP EVEN FOR A NOVICE THAT THE MANUFACTURE HAS BEEN WRITING FOR GENER ATIONS OF THREE PATENTS THAT AT TEST TO ITS PRECISION II JAEGER LECOULTRE MASTER GRANDE TRADITION CALIBER 948 THIS IIII BVLGARI ALUMINIUM CHRONOGR APHE DUCATI SPECIAL EDTION VI HUBLOT SPIRIT OF BIG BANG CARBON GOLD TIGER THIS MODEL WATCH COMBINES THE UNIVERSAL TIME COMPLICATION WITH A FLYING BVLGARI JOINED FORCES WITH DUCATI TO CRE ATE A SPECIAL EDITION WHICH IS BASED ON THE 42 MM BARREL SHAPED SPIRIT OF BIG BANG TOURBILLON A COMBINATION NEW TO WATCHMAKING IN ADDITION WATCH WITH AN E XCLUSIVE RED DIAL AND UNIQUE HOUR MARKERS IS A STRIKING NEW VERSION OF THE FUSION PRINCIPLE SO DE AR TO THE TOURBILLON MAKES A FULL TOUR OF THE DIAL IN 24 HOURS THE T WO REFERENCES TO THE AESTHETIC TR AITS OF THE ITALIAN MOTOR HUBLOT IT IS THE FIRST SPIRIT OF BIG BANG TO HAVE A CASE IN FROSTED DUR ATION OF AN AVER AGE SOL AR DAY THE DIAL FE ATURES A MAP OF BIKE BR AND THIS WATCH HAS AN ALUMINUM CASE TOGE THER WITH CARBON AND 18 K AR AT YELLOW GOLD A FUSION OF BL ACK AND GOLD THE WORLD SEEN FROM THE NORTHERN HEMISPHERE AN EMBLEMATIC BE ZEL AND A BL ACK RUBBER STR AP MATERIALS THAT HUBLOT HAS ONLY USED ONCE IN ITS COLLECTION SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES 29 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS Jean Marc Pontrou CEO of Panerai says and repeats that it is across the profession that the challenges of sustainable development must be tackled With the advantage compared with certain industries that watchmaking produces sustainable products par excellence designed to last for ages and delight several successive generations But from words to actions there is obviously a step that is easier to make if there are some leading lights to set the example Panerai has clearly positioned itself alongside those who have decided to clear the terrain with an indispensable guide the adventurer and ambassador Mike Horn well placed to expose the degradation of a planet in danger At the last Watches and Wonders trade fair in Geneva the explorer was obviously present accompanied by Jean Marc Pontrou and Francesca Santoro a specialist with the Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission IOC of UNESCO to talk about sustainable development Last year Panerai in fact entered into a two year partnership with the IOC UNESCO with a view to developing Ocean Literacy a world training and awareness programme that allows various stakeholders to become players for change and defenders of the ocean The first stage of the programme will involve education a field in which Panerai has undertaken to hold a cycle of conferences involving thousands of students and Having embraced the sustainable development cause through its recycled products environmental partnerships and responsible production methods Panerai is acting as a promoter of green energy to organize plastic clean up days One can t help noticing that the oceans occupy a special place in Panerai s heart largely due to the brand s origins Before developing timekeeping products intended for combat divers the Florence based brand was in fact specialized in measuring instruments for the Italian navy In more than a century its attachment to the sea has never dwindled as visitors to the Panerai stand at the Geneva trade fair will have noticed on literally entering an underwater cave On all fronts Besides this year s new products leave no room for ambiguity The year 2022 is in fact that of the Submersible the brand s famous diver s model released for the occasion in a new size of 44 mm The success of the collection s model in bronze is so great that the waiting list never stops growing So it s no accident if it is precisely this watch range that receives the brand s principal innovations in favour of eco responsibility So last year Panerai presented its Submersible eLAB ID a watch that is 98 recycled at the same time as it introduced eSteel a recycled steel that is to be found this year in three Submersible QuarantaQuattro models Two years ago recyclability clearly had no place in the luxury sector s vocabulary comments Jean Marc Pontrou Today we no longer ask the question It is rather like the electric cars Ten years ago they were still UFOs but now they populate our roads Our aim at Panerai is to eliminate stainless steel in favour of recycled steel within three years In parallel Panerai is also presenting lightweight solid and resistant straps designed in a material of reduced environmental impact obtained from recycled PET The same goes for the packaging manufactured from FSC certified Forest Stewardship Council paper and made with 72 recycled materials In terms of impact the new packaging which is half the weight of the previous packaging reduces the CO2 emissions by 48 As Panerai says sustainable development is at the centre of the brand s preoccupations at all levels Another way of applying the pioneering spirit and tenacity that characterize a brand cut out for action Eric Dumatin PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE QUARANTAQUATTRO ESTEEL VERDE SMERALDO PANERAI LUMINOR PERPETUAL CALENDAR GOLDTECH PAM01269 THIS YEAR PANERAI IS INTRODUCING A NEW CASE SIZE OF 44 MM INTO PURSUING ITS TRANSITION FROM MILITARY WATCHMAKING TOWARDS A THE SUBMERSIBLE COLLECTION THIS NEW MODEL CONSERVES ALL THE MORE CIVILIAN RANGE PANERAI PRESENTS THE LUMINOR PERPETUAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE COLLECTION BASED ON THE EMBLEMATIC CALENDAR GOLDTECH THIS VARIANT OF THE MODEL PRESENTED IN 2021 LUMINOR CASE WITH ITS PATENTED CROWN LOCKING DEVICE BUT WITH COMES TOGETHER WITH ITS EXPERIENCE NAMELY A TRIP TO FLORENCE A UNIDIRECTIONALLY ROTATING BEZEL AS WELL AS AN NFT A CRYPTOGRAPHIC TOKEN LINKED TO A BLOCKCHAIN
C H O PA R D C H O PA R D
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES to help environmental causes bring a lot more value not only to clients but also to competitors employees and partners It creates a positive chain of accountability where each of us can become more aware of our actions and the steps we can take to protect biodiversity Panerai has taken the eco ambassador concept directly to its customers by attaching adventures to certain limited edition watches that often include interaction with ambassadors that promote ecology Buyers of the Submersible Mike Horn edition were invited to participate in an Arctic adventure to Svalbard Norway during the height of the Northern Lights spectacle Horn is I AMBASSADORS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 32 an explorer survival expert and environmentalist Breitling ambassador Bertrand Piccard goes a step further to involve all the rest of us in the ecology game The doctor explorer and environmentalist set out on a mission in 2017 to gather 1 000 economically profitable ways to preserve the environment so far he has come up with 1 400 The solutions as he calls them include everything from using portable solar panels and recycled waste for energy to harnessing ocean waves to generate power Breitling was recently added to the list because of its packaging which is made entirely from upcycled plastic and can itself be recycled Bertrand made history in 1999 by making the first ever non stop aroundthe world balloon flight on board the Breitling Orbiter 3 Breitling was a sponsor of the journey He next circumnavigated the globe in an airplane the Solar Impulse powered only by the sun It was the world s first 40 000 kilometer journey made without fuel Protecting the environment doesn t have to be boring insists Piccard My goal was to change the narrative that assumes protecting the environment is boring expensive and sacrificial I wanted to show that it can be exactly the opposite It can be exciting it can be profitable it can create jobs and become the core of economic development IIII Watchmaking excellence LIONEL A MARCA CEO OF BREGUET Breguet which celebrated 220 years of the tourbillon in 2021 is following in the steps of its founder Abraham Louis Breguet both a genius and a watchmaking aesthete in the 19th century A reminder that watches are a field of mechanical excellence II A Breguet watch is highly symbolic Not just because the brand s founder of the same name was a watchmaking genius but also because the contemporary timepieces that bear his name perpetuate this tradition of mechanical excellence When I arrived at the head of Breguet in August 2021 explains Lionel a Marca my first impressions confirmed what I had felt for some time namely that this brand was a fabulous Manufacture at the service of watchmaking a brand with rare skills and exclusive know how AbrahamLouis Breguet whose recently celebrated invention of the tourbillon patented on 26 June 1801 is behind many innovations and aesthetic developments in both the watches of his time and present day models Now it is up to us to show ourselves worthy of this heritage But I have no worry on that score We have no shortage of arguments to demonstrate that Breguet is a brand ready to take on challenges in developing innovations for watch calibers III V VI SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES 33 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS A bridge spanning the centuries At the start of the year as a reminder of the extent of the Manufacture s capabilities Breguet presented a new interpretation of its Hora Mundi model in the Marine i e naval collection A brief reminder of the facts Recognized as an outstanding scientist and master of technology Abraham Louis Breguet bound up his destiny with that of the French navy in 1814 when a royal decree declared him a member of the Bureau des Longitudes points out the brand A year later King Louis XVIII bestowed upon him one of the most prestigious titles that of Watchmaker to the Royal Navy Henceforth the fleets of the greatest explorers navigated with the aid of a system of chronometry produced by Breguet This Hora Mundi is its worthy descendant as a timepiece with four patents to its credit after three years of development work on a caliber incorporating a second time zone which the mechanism remembers for instant switching Practically it suffices to set the time and date in the first time zone and then choose a second world city which appears in an aperture at 6 o clock The timepiece s mechanism then calculates this city s time and date with the aid of an ingenious system of cams hammers and a built in differential indicates Breguet Then with a simple press of the push piece it is possible to pass from one end of the planet to the other with I OMEGA SEAMASTER DIVER 300M THE SE AMASTER DIVER 300M PRE III LONGINES ULTR A CHRON INSPIRED BY THE ORIGINAL LONGINES V BLANCPAIN TRIBUTE TO FIFTY FATHOMS NO RAD BL ANCPAIN REIN SENTED FOR THE FIRST TIME IN 1993 IS BACK AND MORE DARING THAN ULTR A CHRON DIVER OF 1968 THE NEW MODEL AND ITS NEW HIGH TERPRETS ONE OF ITS EMBLEMATIC HISTORICAL TIMEPIECES THE FIF TY EVER WITH A DIAL DECOR ATED WITH A WAVE MOTIF REPRODUCED IN A FREQUENCY CALIBER REPRESENT THE FIRST REINTERPRE TATION OF FATHOMS NO R ADIATIONS THIS MID 1960S DIVING INSTRUMENT HAD STUNNING SHADE OF GREEN THIS 42 MM WATCH IN STAINLESS STEEL WHAT SETS LONGINES APART ITS STATUS AS A PIONEER IN THE WORLD THE CHAR ACTERISTIC FE ATURE OF BEING STAMPED WITH A NO R ADI IS FIT TED WITH A UNIDIRECTIONALLY ROTATING BE ZEL IN POLISHED OF SPORTS TIMING THE ACCUR ACY OF THE LONGINES ULTR A CHRON ATIONS LOGO INDICATING THAT BL ANCPAIN WAS NOT USING LUMI BREGUET MARINE HOR A MUNDI 5557 ENSURING THE RE ADABILIT Y B R E G U E T T R AD IT IO N QUAN T I M E R T R O G R AD E 75 97 R EGAL GREEN CER AMIC WITH A DIVING SCALE IN WHITE GR AND FEU ENAMEL IS CONFIRMED BY ITS CERTIFICATION AS AN ULTR A CHRONOME TER NESCENT MATERIALS COMPOSED OF R ADIUM OF THE DIAL WHILE OFFERING E ACH INDICATION ITS OWN SPECIAL MO NO CH R O M E W I T H I T S A E S T H E T I C B L E N D O F H E R I TAG E A N D II TAG HEUER AUTAVIA CHRONOMETER FLYBACK TAG HEUER IS PAYING IIII GRAND SEIKO HERITAGE SBGA413 SHUNBUN GR AND SEIKO SEEKS VI PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE S BRABUS BLACK OPS EDITION THE FIRST AESTHETICS FOR BREGUET LUXURY IS INDEED IN THE DETAILS THIS MODERNIT Y THE TR ADITION COLLECTION L AUNCHED IN 2005 IS THE TRIBUTE TO THE AUTAVIA COLLECTION BORN IN 1962 WITH THREE ITS INSPIR ATION IN THE NOTION OF PASSING TIME ONE THAT IS VERY RESULT OF THE COLLABOR ATION BETWEEN PANER AI AND THE GERMAN IS WHY THE HOURS AND MINUTES HANDS AND THE HOUR MARKERS FIRST BREGUE T R ANGE TO PRESENT ALL THE MOVEMENT S ORGANS NEW MODELS INCLUDING THIS CHRONOME TER THE COSC CERTI IMPORTANT IN JAPAN THE MANUFACTURE PAYS TRIBUTE TO THE NOW AUTOMOTIVE TUNING COMPANY BRABUS NATURALLY LOOKED TO THE SEA ARE COATED WITH LUMINESCENT MATERIAL THAT ALLOWS THEM TO ON THE DIAL SIDE A DEMONSTR ATION OF INSPIR ATION DR AWN FROM FIED MANUFACTURE FLYBACK MOVEMENT CALIBER HEUER 02 MAKES ICONIC 62GS MODEL WITH THE LAUNCH OF FOUR TIMEPIECES THAT CEL WITH THIS NEW SUBMERSIBLE A DIVING INSTRUMENT THAT POINTS TO THE BE RE AD ONCE NIGHT HAS FALLEN THE SOUSCRIP TION AND TACT WATCHES ITS ENTRY INTO THE AUTAVIA COLLECTION BY EQUIPPING THIS CHRO EBR ATE THE NATURE OF TIME AND THE T WENT Y FOUR JAPANESE SEKKI TECHNOLOGICAL ROOTS OF THE TWO BR ANDS IT IS THE FIRST PANER AI NOME TER WITH ITS BL ACK DIAL THAT MARK THE CONSTANT CHANGING OF THE SE ASONS IN JAPAN WATCH WITH A SKELETONIZED AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT THE P 4001 S out disturbing the precise running of the watch With a day night indication symbolized by a sun and a moon a date display in an aperture with a retrograde hand this Marine Hora Mundi 5557 offers the most exceptional attention to detail seen particularly in its dial which plays with dimensional aspects On a first gold base of the satin finished blue dial waves that have been hand engraved with a rose engine break on the shores of continents in relief whose coastlines are traced with a fine metallized turquoise border A sapphire plate showing the meridians metallized and bearing hourmarkers is added held in place by the outer flange At 4 o clock the sun and moon are hand stamped to add realism We find the same obsession with detail in the new Tradition Quanti me R trograde 7597 which features a strong contrast between the monochrome blue here and there on the dial and the movement adorned in anthracite grey as Breguet describes it As with all the models in this collection it is the mechanism revealed on the dial side that captures the eye and recalls the brand s origin From the shape of the bridges to the parechute and the dimensions of the balance wheel and gear train all the components are implicitly inspired by the movements of the souscription and tact watches created by Abraham Louis Breguet For aficionados it s a real bridge spanning the centuries Eric Dumatin
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 34 Tempo Virtuoso For the 25th anniversary of the Chopard Manufacture the brand is presenting a trio of exceptional musical pieces the culmination of two decades of watchmaking art K ARL FRIEDRICH SCHEUFELE CO PRESIDENT OF CHOPARD NARDIN It was during Duba Watch Week towards the end of 2016 and everyone present still recalls the event Hardly disembarked from the aeroplane Karl Friedrich Scheufele held an informal meeting to unveil the latest addition to the L U C collection Obviously we are not talking about any watch In that year of the 20th anniversary of the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier the brand s co president had laid the foundations announcing a truly exceptional watch And so it was that Karl Friedrich Scheufele a man of his word and of unstoppable enthusiasm arrived in the Arab Emirates at the last minute to present the fruit of six years of work involving 1 700 hours of development namely the L U C Full Strike a minute repeater timepiece as innovative in its construction as it was exceptional in the sound it produced A revelation for all present a matter of course for the profession A few months later the Chopard L U C Full Strike won the Aiguille d Or the supreme award of the Grand Prix d Horlogerie de Gen ve for a watch combining the best in expertise inventiveness and quality the hallmarks of the L U C collection This piece could have been considered an endobjective with its numerous innovations four of which were patented The most radical of these changes had truly changed the technical paradigm of striking watches as described by Chopard In other existing minute repeaters the sound is generated by a hammer that strikes metal gongs forming part of the movement The Chopard Manufacture s L U C 08 01 L caliber goes beyond this construction with gongs in sapphire separated from the movement and forming one with the glass that covers the dial Indeed the gongs and glass form a single unit free of any discontinuity glue or weld machined from a block of solid sapphire However perfect it may be the L U C Full Strike watch was only a first step In other words Karl Friedrich Scheufele had no intention of leaving it at that A new anniversary that of the Chopard Manufacture s 25 years provided the occasion for taking the concept one step further And so this year a little late owing to the pandemic the brand is presenting a remarkable trilogy of striking watches which Chopard considers to be the ultimate in watchmaking complications combining technicality craftsmanship and emotion The vibration of passion My idea was to produce a completely transparent Full Strike with a case in sapphire the ultimate Holy Grail in my view Our next thought was that it would be fantastic to build a tourbillon regulator into this same minute repeater movement Finally came the idea of applying the expertise gained with the Full Strike to a new generation of striking watches accompanying with the L U C Strike One So in a way we have come full circle in that this watch was the very first musical watch presented by Chopard in 2006 And so came the birth of this trilogy of watches with which Karl Friedrich Scheufele took the quest for perfection to its pinnacle Not only are all three pieces stamped with the Geneva Seal one of the most demanding labels in Swiss watchmaking and certified for their precision by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute or COSC for Contr le officiel suisse des chronom tres but they also benefited from the expertise of virtuoso musicians in their conception At Karl Friedrich Scheufele s invitation the Capu on brothers Renaud and Gauthier respectively violinist and cellist both of international repute took part in the concoction of the sound to give these watchmaking masterpieces the emotion of a Guarneri violin like the one in fact played by Renaud Capu on Chopard s conclusion Purer more sustained and more harmonious than the sound of traditional repeater mechanisms in metal the sound produced by Chopard s sapphire gongs includes a living vibration that of passion Eric Dumatin CHOPARD ALPINE EAGLE FLYING TOURBILLON CHOPARD S ALPINE CHOPAR D L U C FULL STRIKE SAPPHIRE FOR THE 25TH ANN IVER E AG LE C O L LECT I ON D I S P L AYS A C ONTEM P OR ARY S P OR T Y C H I C S A RY O F I T S L U C C O L L EC T I O N C H O PA R D H A S C O N C E I V E D A TENDENCY AF TER A FLYBAC K CHRONOGR APH MOVEM ENT AND A TR ANSPARENT TI M EPI ECE WITHOUT R IVAL AND FOR THE SECOND HIGH FREQUENCY CALIBER ALPINE E AGLE IS EXTENDING ITS R ANGE TI M E IN FIVE YE ARS RE VOLUTIONIZED THE M INUTE REPE ATER THE OF COM PLICATIONS WITH A FLYI NG TOUR B I LLON MODEL WITH A L U C 08 01 L CA L I B ER B E ARS TH E C ER T I F I CAT I ON STA M P S OF A DEP TH OF JUST 3 30 MM THE L U C 96 24 L DRIVES ONE OF THE VERY CHRONOM E TER AND I N ADD ITION THE CASE CROWN AND D IAL FEW FLYING TOURBILLON WATCHES TO BE DOUBLY CERTIFIED C O S C OF TH IS NE W L U C FULL STR I KE MODEL ARE ENTI RELY CUT FROM AND GENE VA SE AL B LOC KS OF SAPPH I RE
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 36 SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES 37 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS On the wings of time In 2019 Blancpain brought back to life its famous Air Command a pilot s watch of the 1950s that is as legendary as it is hard to find The model was then included among the brand s collections to be presented in a more feminine format this year It can never be said enough The appeal of a women s watch is not measured by the number of carats loaded onto it to draw the eye Even if jewelry watches occupy a place apart in the watchmaking world it is clear that a ladies watch also needs to be convincing in its watchmaking aspect That is exactly the case with the Blancpain Air Command AC03 presented in titanium and red gold versions this year Here is a pilot s flyback chronograph whose size of 36 2 mm fits perfectly on feminine wrists and to the envy of all those who wish to wear a timepiece of character And what s more with a history to it and evoking the tarmac Watchmaking mysteries For the Blancpain Air Command is no ordinary chronograph For those who love watch stories this one will satisfy their greatest expectations being one of those watches that are legendary because they are mysterious All the more legendary because they are rare practically impossible to find At the beginning of the 1950s the French Ministry of Defense was looking for a high precision chronograph capable of meeting demanding specifications Blancpain recounts To be chosen the watch had to have a black dial decorated with luminescent hour markers and hands in order to maximize readability The movement had to be equipped with a flyback function and a small seconds display A few years later other armed powers began looking for a similar instrument So Blancpain which had already conquered the American navy with its Fifty Fathoms diver s watch drew inspiration from it to design a chronograph for the United States Air Force It was through the intermediary of a Blancpain dealer in the United States Allen V Tornek that this timepiece was proposed to the American military pilots It seems that the brand created a dozen watches for them as prototypes So much for the official interpretation which stops there According to the auctioneers Phillips who have seen two Air Command pass under their hammer with no documentation at all on the model there is every reason to believe as the experts noted that the Air Command was never mass produced or commercialized and that in fact the project was abandoned For the sake of the legend there remain a few very rare versions of this flyback chronograph watch equipped with a Valjoux 222 movement with a 30 minute counter and a small seconds display on a black dial a tachymeter scale in parallel with the minute circle and a countdown rotating bezel A pilot s watch that could easily be taken for a 1950s Fifty Fathoms equipped with a chronometer A retro look for intrepid adventurers It is precisely this model that has seen a second life since 2019 the year when Blancpain presented a 500 watch limited re edition of this legendary Air Command in an identical replication Apart from a few little details like crystals in sapphire instead of plexiglas the chronometer s hours counter in place of the small sec onds and the diameter that is larger by 0 5 mm it s the same perfectly vintage watch Indeed the Blancpain teams have taken the imitation as far as choosing a Super LumiNova of the old radium type for the luminescence of the indications in order to reproduce the original orangy color In its only indulgence the watch is equipped with a movement as prestigious as its predecessor s but of the latest generation the caliber F388B with a vertical coupling and a column wheel and with a high frequency of 5 Hz for the measurement of short times to the nearest 1 10th of a second Given the success of this re edition Blancpain brought the Air Command into its current collections in 2021 by presenting two new versions in grade 23 titanium and red gold with a blue dial More technical in appearance these two new models display all the charm of the instrumentwatches of the past But having come so far Blancpain has no intention of stopping The brand is therefore addressing sportswomen and outdoor enthusiasts this year presenting the 36 2 mm Air Command AC03 also in titanium and red gold For the occasion the watch was equipped with the F188B movement incorporating a chronograph with a frequency of 3 Hz 21 600 vibrations hour and reliable under all conditions It s a question of providing the most intrepid adventurers with a timepiece of great quality With a retro look as a bonus Christophe Roulet B L A N C PA I N AIR COMMAND AC0 3 B L ANC PA I N I S E XPAN D I NG I TS AIR COMMAND COLLECTION INSPIRED BY ONE OF ITS LEGENDARY HISTORICAL CHRONOGR APHS THE NEW 36 2 MM DIAME TER MODEL NOW JOINING THE MANUFACTURE S LINE UP OF SPORT Y TIMEPIECES IS SMALLER THAN ITS PREDECESSOR WHILE NONETHELESS ENDOWED WITH ALL THE MAKINGS OF A GRE AT CHRONOGR APH BL ANCPAIN AIR COMMAND FLYBACK CHRONOGR APH AC02 THE AIR COMMAND COLLECTION IS INSPIRED BY A HIGHLY SOUGHT AF TER 1950S BL ANCPAIN CHRONOGR APH THAT WAS PRODUCED IN TINY QUANTITIES IN THE SLIPSTRE AM OF ITS PREDECESSOR THE NEW AIR COMMAND MODEL FE ATURES SOPHISTICATED ST YLING AND OFFERS T WO D ISTI NCT TI M I NG MODES A CHRONOGR APH WITH FLYBAC K FUNCTION AND A COUNTDOWN BE ZEL BORN IN THE MID 1950S THE AIR COMMAND CHRONOGR APH IS PROBABLY THE R AREST BLANCPAIN WATCH OF ITS ER A
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES 39 WATCH YOUR TIME USA SUSTAINABILITY o christophe roulet Sustainable watchmaking Sustainable development is becoming a tangible reality in the watchmaking world whether we re talking about products supply chains production facilities or the various sponsorships and partnerships It s no longer a question of keeping up with the times but rather of anticipating them O ur durat ion is irr eve r sible PANER AI LUMINOR MARINA 44MM EDITION GUILLAUME N RY THE NEW LUMINOR MARINA 44 MM GUILL AUME NERY EDITION IS A CONCENTR ATION OF INNOVATIVE AESTHE TIC ELEMENTS AS CAN BE SEEN IN THE RUBBER COATING APPLIED TO THE BE ZEL CROWN AND CROWN PROTECTING BRIDGE THE EMPHASIZED CONVE X GL ASS AND THE GR ADIENT EFFECT DIAL THIS NEW MODEL REFLECTS PANER AI S APPROACH TO MATERIALS PROCESSING PARTICUL ARLY WITH THEIR DMLS DIRECT ME TAL L ASER SINTERING TECHNOLOGY WHICH MAKES IT POSSIBLE TO FASHION THE CASE IN TITANIUM WITH THE AID OF A 3D PRINTING PROCESS THE CALIBER P 9010 AN AUTOMATIC MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT JUST 6 MM THICK COMPLE TES THE MODEL There are signs you cannot mistake It all began with a more and more pronounced penchant for vintage watches those models that not without a certain nostalgia recall an era when watches were made in the old fashioned way without resorting to digital technology It did not take long for the brands to pick up the scent and bring their models steeped in history back to life Meanwhile aficionados started yearning for true vintage models namely second hand timepieces designed to last indeed to be passed on from generation to generation for ever as the watchmaking mantra would have it At the same time the exchange platforms took off boosting a market that many feel will reach around 50 billion francs in annual sales of new Swiss watches at retail cost before long No need to make detailed analyses As the numerous client surveys made in the prestige products sector have shown and the flood of vintage watches has emphasized afi cionados have developed an attachment to lasting values that can no longer be ignored An opportunity for the watchmaking industry If the sector has one Henri Bergson 1 8 5 9 1 9 41 primordial quality it is assuredly that of inspiring dreams and perfectly nurturing this capacity over the centuries To such an extent that the brands in the sector have earned themselves a place of choice in the luxury world for their know how technical mastery and traditions However this highly enviable position still comes up against an unavoidable reality the product alone is no longer enough Today to retain all their seductive power timepieces need to match up to a very precise rationale that falls within a comprehensive move towards sustainable development And everything comes under scrutiny from the supply chains to production capacities and communications factors Diamonds that fuel civil wars animals reared and killed for their skins environmental damage caused by unregulated gold prospecting the carbon emissions of delocalized production facilities all that not so long ago could easily be swept under the carpet has now clearly acquired strategic importance A clean future As a reference one can consult the sustainable development programme adopted by all the UN Member States in 2015 This provides a common roadmap for the peace and prosperity of the planet s populations encompassing 17 global objectives together with 169 detailed targets In short these objectives provide a definition of the most urgent challenges the world population is facing and thus constitute the essential framework for the implementation of the sustainable development programme to the year 2030 In 2015 just as the UN was setting out its programme another important event seemed to confirm the desire of governments to tackle the problem the Paris Climate Agreement the most quickly and widely accepted treaty in human history with 195 signatures out of 197 at the foot of the text With hindsight though we cannot but notice that this formidable show of solidarity proved formidable largely on paper as was noted at the last Climate Conference COP26 in Glasgow Just to prove GR AND SEIKO HERITAGE COLLECTION THE 44GS 55TH ANNIVERSARY LIMITED EDITION WITH THE HIGH FREQUENCY CALIBER 9SA5 MOVEMENT L AUNCHED IN 2020 GR AND SEIKO HAS TAKEN A MA JOR STEP IN TERMS OF PRECISION AND PERFORMANCE IT CAN BE FOUND IN THIS WATCH IN E VER BRILLIANT A T YPE OF SUSTAINABLE SHINY STEEL THAT ENHANCES THE MODEL S CL ASSIC DESIGN
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES the point the six years that have passed since the Paris Agreement were the hottest ever recorded What s more the reports of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change IPCC analysis after analysis raising louder and louder alarm bells have scarcely made any real impact And yet today there is no longer any need to show the effects of the climate change currently under way The present level of global warming roughly 1 1 Celsius on average since the pre industrial era has already contributed to so many calamities that the most pessimistic predictions are taken seriously In this context where governmental effort is found lacking the importance of the role private initiative can play cannot be overstressed This is precisely where the actions of the watchmaking brands come in All the more so given that the economic SUSTAINABILITY WATCH YOUR TIME USA 40 impact of the watchmaking sector Switzerland s third largest export industry is far from limited by the nation s frontiers in particular where its raw materials requirements are concerned Two recent initiatives merit a closer look In 2019 the French president Emmanuel Macron asked Fran ois Henri Pinault the head of Kering Gucci Saint Laurent Boucheron etc to coordinate the adoption of environmental best practices by luxury sector businesses More than 250 brands in 14 different countries responded to the call of this Fashion Pact built on three pillars the fight against global warming the restoration of biodiversity and the protection of the oceans A welcome initiative when it is considered that the fashion industry is the second most polluting activity in the world A watchmaking 2030 Initiative What is valid for the fashion industry is even more so for the watchmaking and jewellery sectors dependent as they are on the mining industry for their gemstone and metal supplies The mining industry overall accounts for between 4 and 7 of world greenhouse gas emissions If we broaden the spectrum to the extraction of all the raw materials we arrive at over 50 of world carbon emissions according to a study of the United Nations Environment Programme without taking account of fuel consumption In these conditions there is no question of the major watchmaking brands opting out Social and environmental responsibility must be among the subjects that are of daily concern to us declared Arnaud Carrez Cartier International s Marketing SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES 41 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS A Success Story Hublot keeps extending the walls of its Manufacture Two new buildings will be added to the two existing structures In order to give The Art of Fusion all the space it needs RICARDO GUADALUPE CEO OF HUBLOT II I IIII III V VI I AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK JUMBO EXTRA THIN TO CELEBR ATE III ULYSSE NARDIN DIVER WITH ITS INTENSE BLUE E VOKING THE V RICHARD MILLE RM 35 03 AUTOMATIQUE RAFAEL NADAL THE RM 035 50 YE ARS OF THE ROYAL OAK AUDEMARS PIGUET IS PRESENTING THE DEP THS OF THE OCE AN AND ITS DE TAILS IN PINK GOLD THE 44 MM BABY NADAL COLLECTION A CONCENTR ATION OF TECHNOLOGY AT NE W GENER ATION OF THE 39 M M ROYAL OAK JUMBO E X TR A THIN DIVER CHRONOME TER IS THE NAVIGATOR S INSTRUMENT PAR E XCEL THE SERVICE OF PERFORMANCE PRESENTS A PATENTED INNOVATION MODEL DRIVEN BY THE VERY L ATEST E X TR A THIN MOVEMENT THE LENCE THE 260 COMPONENTS INCLUDING AN ESCAPE WHEEL AND A THE BUT TERFLY ROTOR WHICH ALLOWS ITS OWNER TO HAVE DIRECT CALIBER 7121 THE COLLECTION COMPRISES FOUR VARIATIONS IN STAIN PALLE T FORK IN SILICON MOVE HARMONIOUSLY TO PROVIDE HIGH CONTROL OF THE ROTOR S GEOMETRY AND THUS OF THE MOVEMENT S LESS STEEL PL ATINUM 18 CT YELLOW GOLD AND 18 CT PINK GOLD PRECISION PERFORMANCE WINDING IN ACCORDANCE WITH THEIR LIFEST YLE AND ACTIVITIES II BLANCPAIN FIF T Y FATHOMS BATHYSCAPHE SINCE ITS BEGINNINGS IIII BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO ANNIVERSARY EDITION TO CELEBR ATE VI CHOPARD LUC XPS 1860 OFFICER THE L U C XPS 1860 OFFICER IN 1956 THE BATHYSCAPHE R ANGE HAS BEEN A CORNERSTONE OF 10 YE ARS OF THE OCTO BVLGARI IS UNVEILING T WO ANNIVERSARY MODEL STANDS FOR ALL THE ELEGANCE AND CR AF TSMANSHIP OF BL ANCPAIN S DIVER S WATCH COLLECTION IN KEEPING WITH THE HER EDITIONS THAT HARK BACK TO THE SOURCES OF ITS CONCEP TION HAUTE HORLOGERIE PRESENTED IN A 40 MM CASE OF 18 CT E THICAL ITAGE AND SPORT Y CHIC ST YLE OF ITS PREDECESSORS THE L ATEST THE FIRST SKETCHES MADE BY BVLGARI S CREATIVE DIRECTOR TODAY YELLOW GOLD AND DECOR ATED WITH A FOREST GREEN DIAL THIS ADDITION TO THE BATHYSCAPHE R ANGE IS EQUIPPED WITH A CASE THESE PENCILLED SKE TCHES ADORN THE ENGR AVED DIALS OF THIS TIMEPIECE IS CERTIFIED AS A CHRONOME TER AND STAMPED WITH IN TITANIUM AND THE 1315 MANUFACTURE CALIBER OCTO FINISSIMO AUTOMATIC IN TITANIUM THE GENE VA SE AL At Hublot we aim high and we see big With its The Art of Fusion concept the brand has repeatedly disproved the maxim asserting that everything has been said and done in watchmaking A simple detour via the Manufacture in Nyon on the shore of Lake Geneva suffices to be convinced It is here that little marvels are concocted like the very latest Big Bang Integral Cathedral Minute Repeater entirely made of ceramic a world first or the famous tourbillon MP 05 LaFerrari fi tted with 11 barrels assembled in series to provide an exceptional power reserve of 50 days another first For ten years now I ve had the opportunity and the pleasure of being CEO at Hublot and managing an exceptional brand explains Ricardo Guadalupe In that respect the acquisition of the brand by LVMH was a great moment in my career because we reaped the fruit of our efforts These ten years have been a unique experience that of playing a part in the success of an exclusive brand turning it into a reference in the watchmaking industry The epithet exclusive is an outdated notion where Hublot is concerned given that its annual watch production has now passed the 70 000 mark Indeed the success has been so phenomenal that the Manufacture hasn t stopped extending its walls From adventure to adventure If Hublot has known such a trajectory which has already propelled it to a place among the leaders in Swiss watchmaking it is also indeed above all because the brand is everywhere Based on the principle that Hublot customers are eclectic enthusiasts the brand followed them along every negotiable pathway even the most improbable Is football too common a sport to be of interest to a luxury brand Hublot championed the sport But perhaps the football fan is also a cultivated music lover So Hublot took a seat at the piano alongside Lang Lang when the brand wasn t at the turntables with DJ Snake Nothing or virtually nothing seems to escape the hankerings of a watchmaker who adores street art and gastronomy sailing and cigars tattoos and rhinoceroses etc The latest partnership to date the one forged with Polar Pod an extraordinary adventure led by the explorer Jean Louis Etienne on board a revolutionary ecological vessel which will explore the Antarctic Ocean that encircles the polar continent But for convincing appeal good intentions are not enough The dream must have substance to nourish it And in this respect Hublot has no shortage of ready replies As seen in the excellent panorama of new products presented at Watches and Wonders including in particular the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire which once again provides proof that Hublot is the leading producer of sapphire watches and the only watchmaker to propose its watches with tinted sapphires Just as it is the only one to produce ceramics in bright colours The brand was also one of the few present at the trade fair bold enough to offer a new collection That of the Square Bang Unico a square watch that inaugurates a brand new geometric form for the Manufacture The square watch now there s a polarizing disruptive unconventional shape that no one has managed to revive in decades points out Ricardo Guadalupe It was just waiting for us Indeed with this new model Hublot has once again created a surprise Which is in fact what the brand loves doing most of all Eric Dumatin HUBLOT SQUARE BANG UNICO WITH THIS SQUARE BANG UNICO H U B LOT BIG BANG TOUR BILLON AUTOMATIC PUR PLE SAPPHIR E H U B LOT U N V E I L S I TS I N T ER P R E TAT I O N O F T H E SQ UA R E WATC H HUBLOT UNVEILS A NEW ITER ATION OF THE SYNTHE TIC SAPPHIRE I NS P I R ED BY TH E B I G BANG TH E B R AN D S EM B LEM AT I C WATC H THIS TIME IN TR ANSLUCENT VIOLE T A NEW WORLD FIRST WITH THIS FOR THIS MODEL HUBLOT OP TED FOR TR ANSPARENCY IN ORDER TO CASE THE BR AND CONFIRMS ONCE MORE ITS UNEQUALLED KNOW RE VE AL ITS ROUND UNICO BI COMPA X CHRONOGR APH MOVEMENT H OW C O N C ER N I N G SA P P H I R E I N TH E WATC H M A K I N G I N D USTRY M OUNTED ON A SQUAR E M A I N P L ATE TH E CASE I S OF M ODU L AR HUBLOT HAS CAPITALIZED ON THE FIF TEEN YE ARS SPENT DE VELOP CONSTRUCTION WITH A CENTR AL CONTAINER HAVING UPPER AND ING THE TOURBILLON FOR A MOVEMENT THAT IS PROPOSED WITH LOWER PL ATES THAT OFFER MULTIPLE COMBINATIONS AUTOMATIC WINDING
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES and Communications Director during a recent online seminar The luxury sector creates and sells products that are inessential but provide pleasure In this context there is no other choice than to make a commitment to a better world In matters of sustainable development things are not always simple and besides not all subjects demand an immediate response but the way forward is traced with product innovations that must espouse our environmental credibility The 2030 Watch Jewellery Initiative is clearly a response to this problem At the end of 2021 in partnership with the Responsible Jewellery Council RJC and guided by Cartier the Kering and Richemont groups launched this project open to all watchmaking and jewellery brands ready to SUSTAINABILITY WATCH YOUR TIME USA 42 commit themselves to a set of common sustainable development objectives These objectives cover three fields seeking to reinforce climatic resilience preserve the planet s resources and foster social inclusion This 2030 Initiative builds upon existing programmes such as ScienceBased Targets and experienced organizations like the RJC It also includes innovation factors where materials and sales models are concerned with the aim of supporting and encouraging the transformations expected in the sector In concrete terms to take an example commitments made on the question of climatic resilience include decarbonization of all processes through the use of 100 renewable energy in all adherents operations by 2025 and in those of their partners and suppliers by 2030 I II IIII 43 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES Refined elegance Will this approach help us sell more Cartier products pondered Arnaud Carrez That is not the question Today we must adopt a position of responsible growth There is no other way Besides Kering and Cartier will there be other candidates to take up the cause of this 2030 Initiative If we consider the programmes of brands like Rolex with Perpetual Planet and Blancpain with Ocean Commitment if we look at commitments made by Ulysse Nardin Breitling and Omega towards saving the oceans if we take note of the efforts made by Cartier and Chopard on recycling and ethical sourcing of gold if we recognize the decarbonization work carried out by Oris and IWC we have every reason to hope that the ambitious objectives set by Kering and Cartier will become a source of inspiration Bvlgari is celebrating ten years of the Octo collection with one of the thinnest watches in the world And is launching new Serpenti Misteriosi models with a miniature mechanical movement of 12 30 mm in diameter III V VI At Bvlgari the years pass and end up resembling each other so accustomed has the Italian brand become to breaking records for thin watches This year is no exception to the rule and crowns what can without any doubt be considered a decade of innovation that watchmaking has seldom seen Bvlgari is a jewellery brand that sets out to contribute to the elegance of its clients explained Jean Christophe Babin in the daily newspaper Le Temps And the new standard of masculine elegance these last ten years has been the slim fit The idea was therefore to develop the 21st century man s watch with properties that go well with the fashion in clothing The plan was successful beyond all expectations as Bvlgari s development of technical expertise in parallel with the brand s progressive integration of all the watchmaking professions was widely appreciated In ten years records accumulated in practically all technical areas from the simple watch to complications The only trophy still missing was that of the thinnest hours minutes and seconds mechanical watch ever made a feat contested by other Swiss Manufactures However this year it looks as though Bvlgari with its Octo Finissimo Ultra has taken another step forward This watch with its depth of 1 80 mm the equivalent in thickness of a 20 euro cent coin proved to be not only the unexpected bombshell of the year but also a form of consecration for Bvlgari whose technical expertise is now confirmed and widely recognized in a profession not readily given to proffering compliments world Even better the owner receives as a bonus an exclusive work of NFT art guaranteeing the watch s authenticity and the link that connects them via Bvlgari Singvlarity technology this creation s eighth patent Taking achievement to the limits Such an approach required a re examination of the whole concept of the mechanical watch For you won t create one of the thinnest mechanical watches in the world by sticking to well known concepts You have to forget everything and start again from scratch as Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani creative director at Bvlgari explains We had to break all the rules in terms of design not just of the movement but also of the case case back bracelet and even the folding clasp In this sense the Octo Finissimo Ultra is without question the ultimate complication in the field of ultra miniaturisation But the innovation doesn t stop there Engraved on the winding wheel the watch s QR code provides access to special virtual The world of ultra thin mechanisms isn t Bvlgari s only field of expression In parallel with the Octo Finissimo Ultra the brand also looked at the miniaturization of calibers Thus it is presenting four new Serpenti Misteriosi a name that evokes the concept of a secret watch When the snake s tongue is pushed a dial appears that of a detachable timepiece housed in a receptacle built into the reptile s head This oval module topped with a round dial paved with diamonds contains the manual caliber BVL 100 of extreme dimensions a diameter of 12 30 mm and a depth of 2 50 mm for a weight of scarcely 1 30 grams The miniaturization of the 102 components was pushed to its limits with for example a barrel with a diameter of 5 mm and a depth of 1 47 mm housing a spring of 170 mm in length For Bvlgari the limits of what is possible are just challenges to take on rewarded by a record unlike any other Eric Dumatin I CARTIER PRIV TANK CHINOISE CREATED IN 1917 BY LOUIS CARTIER III TAG HEUER MONACO GULF SPECIAL EDITION TAG HEUER RELEASES V LOUIS VUIT TON STREET DIVER SINCE ITS L AUNCH IN 2002 THE THE TANK IS PRESENTED THIS YE AR IN ITS TANK CHINOISE VERSION A NEW EDITION OF ITS ICONIC TAG HEUER MONACO MADE WITH THE TAMBOUR WATCH HAS BEEN IN CONSTANT EVOLUTION IT CONTINUES WITH THIS GENEROUS AND SOBER HOURS AND MINUTES MODEL IN PARTNER GULF THE CO CRE ATION WE ARS THE LEGENDARY COLORS ON ITS ODYSSEY BY OPENING THE DOORS TO THE CLOSED WORLD OF PL ATINUM FE ATURING HORIZONTAL BE VELLED HORNS THE WATCH AND DESIGN OF THE GULF BR AND AND IS EQUIPPED WITH THE IN HOUSE SPORTS WATCHES FOR LOUIS VUIT TON OR MORE PRECISELY SPORT Y TICKS WITH THE RHY THM OF THE 430 MC MOVEMENT CURRENTLY THE MOVEMENT HEUER 02 A PREMIERE FOR THE MONACO GULF EDITION CHIC BECAUSE IT IS ST YLED TO BE JUST AS AT E ASE IN AN URBAN BR AND S THINNEST MECHANICAL MOVEMENT E AGERLY AWAITED BY WATCHES COLLECTORS CONTEXT AS IN UNDERWATER ACTIVITIES TO A DEPTH OF 100 METRES BVLGARI SERPENTI MISTERIOSI THE FOUR NEW SERPENTI SECRE T BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO ULTR A IN ONE DECADE THE OCTO COL CONSOLIDATED BVLGARI S POSITION AS A WATCHMAKER WITH THE II HERM S CAPE COD CREPUSCULE IN 2018 HERM S SET UP A MEET IIII CHANEL J12 CALIBER 12 2 CHANEL IS CONTINUING TO ROLL OUT VI BREGUET CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA PLAT ANNIVERSAIRE 5365 WATCHES REVISIT THE ICONIC DESIGN OF THE 1950S ALL ARE FIT TED LECTION HAS WON ALL THE AWARDS IN ALL SOME 60 INTERNATIONAL DE VELOPMENT OF THREE LINES AND AS MANY E XPRESSIONS OCTO ING WITH THE SWISS CENTRE FOR ELECTRONICS AND MICRO TECH ITS MECHANIZATION ACROSS THE FULL J12 R ANGE THUS THE 33 MILLI IN 2021 FOR THE TOURBILLON S 220 YE ARS BREGUE T S NEW MODEL WITH THE NEW PICCOLISSIMO MECHANICAL MOVEMENT ONE OF THE PRIZES THAT HAVE HONOURED THE COLLECTION INCLUDING THE L ORIGINALE 2012 OCTO FINISSIMO 2014 AND OCTO ROMA 2017 NOLOGY IN NEUCH TEL IN SE ARCH OF TECHNOLOGICAL INNOVATION METRE MODEL INCORPOR ATES THE CALIBER 12 2 THE KENISSI MANU WAS PAYING TRIBUTE TO THIS INVENTION PRODUCED IN A LIMITED SMALLEST IN THE WORLD THIS BVL100 CALIBER BRE ATHES NEW LIFE A I G U I L LE D O R TH E SU P R EM E R EC O M P EN S E AT TH E G R A N D GOING BE YOND THE ESTABLISHED RULES AND PUSHING BACK THE THAT COULD BE PUT TO USE IN WORKS OF CREATION THIS GAVE RISE TO FACTURE HAS DEVELOPED THIS NEW COSC CERTIFIED MOVEMENT FOR EDITION OF JUST 35 NAMELY THE NUMBER OF TOURBILLON WATCHES INTO THE MINUSCULE MECHANICAL MOTORS PRESENT IN ALL THESE P R I X D H O R LO G ER I E D E G EN V E E V EN T I N 2021 A F U S I O N T H AT LIMITS IS IN THE VERY NATURE OF THE OCTO FINISSIMO LINE THE PROJECT OF A DIAL MADE FROM A WAFER OF SILICON THAT SERVES THE BR AND IN WHICH ALL THE COMPONENTS HAVE BEEN ADJUSTED COMPLETED IN ABR AHAM LOUIS BREGUET S LIFETIME THE TIMEPIECE WOMEN S WATCHES UNTIL THE BEGINNING OF THE 1970S WAS PRESENTED FOR THE FIRST TIME IN ROME IN 2012 AND R APIDLY TO REVE AL DESIGNER THANH PHONG L S DR AWING CREPUSCULE TO THIS NEW DIAME TER IS A VIBR ANT HOMAGE TO THE GRE AT WATCHMAKER
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 44 SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES 45 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS SYLVIA E ARLE FOUNDER OF MISSION BLUE AN AERIAL VIEW OF S O JORGE ISL AND IN THE A ZORES THE HIGH ALTITUDE E XPEDITION TE AM DURING AN E XPEDITION TO A HOPE SPOT THE A ZORE ARCHIPEL AGO HAS BEEN NAMED A NEW ASSEMBLES THE WORLD S HIGHEST AUTOMATED AT CABO PULMO LOS CABOS ME XICO IN 2017 HOPE SPOT BY MISSION BLUE GREG LECOEUR WE ATHER STATION AT THE BALCONY ON ROLE X BART MICHIELS THE SOUTHE AST RIDGE OF MT E VEREST ROLE X NATIONAL GEOGR APHIC SYLVIA E ARLE S MISSION BLUE CRE ATED ITS FIRST THE E XPEDITION TE AM INSTALLS THE HIGHEST HOPE SPOT TO PROTECT MARINE BIODIVERSIT Y WE ATHER STATION IN THE SOUTHERN AND IN THE BALE ARIC ISL ANDS SPAIN KIP E VANS WESTERN HEMISPHERES AT 6 505 ME TRES ARMANDO VEGA NATIONAL GEOGR APHIC Preserving our planet with no time to lose From the depths of the oceans to the highest peaks Rolex has been accompanying the pioneers of exploration for more than a century Over time the links between the brand and exploration have evolved the thirst for discovery having been joined by a long term commitment to a whole new generation of heroes who through their scientific projects or innovative ideas are working to protect and restore the balance of our ecosystems A commitment reinforced by the Perpetual Planet initiative of 2019 Its beauty leaves no one indifferent As for the formidable variety of its landscapes and the extraordinary diversity of its ecosystems they are an infinite source of pleasure contemplation and admiration for mankind But today how can we ignore the fact that inhabiting the world necessarily involves making a concrete commitment to protecting it We know that after a period calculated to be several billion years our planet will disappear An eternity Certainly except that today we can no longer afford to keep ignoring the necessity of preserving the oceans mountains forests and endangered animal species In short all the ecosystems that contribute to the equilibrium of our planet We only have one and Rolex is supporting those who are committed to perpetuating its beauty in all its diversity A laboratory in the open air On the initiative of its founder Hans Wilsdorf the brand has accompanied the most illustrious explorers in fabulous exploits that have marked history Of course Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay spring to mind the very first men to have reached the summit of Everest in 1953 We also think of the exploration by Jacques Piccard and Don Walsh of the Mariana Trench the deepest oceanic trench on Earth at more than 10 000 metres below the surface of the Pacific Ocean in 1960 And then we couldn t go without mentioning the exploit of the explorer and film maker James Cameron who became the third man to reach the planet s deepest point in 2012 Once again Rolex was involved in the project Just as the brand has repeatedly supported a number of mountaineers divers and scientists tackling expeditions often extreme that have served to document and expand our knowledge of the planet Understanding to change the world From the spirit of adventure and discovery to the protection of the environment Rolex continues to perpetuate its founder s heritage Today s heroes and explorers no longer shine by their exploits alone They are scientists biologists glaciologists veterinary surgeons oceanographers All precursors who through their expeditions offer a better understanding of the environment and propose practical solutions for a more sustainable planet Rolex actively supports them via the Perpetual Planet initiative launched in 2019 which encompasses a multitude of projects concerning nature conservation scientific research and general exploration 2019 seems recent with regard to the current climate issues and the urgent need to act But in reality the watchmaking brand has been investing for several decades in aiding those who contribute to pushing back the frontiers of knowledge improving the conditions of life and protecting the environment Among the organizations and institutions supported by Rolex we find the Under The Pole expeditions which are pushing back the limit of underwater exploration the associations One Ocean Foundation and Menkab which protect the cetaceans in the Mediterranean the XunaanHa expedition which surveys the water quality in Mexico s Yucat n Peninsula the B I G expedition which will depart for the North Pole in 2023 in order to gather data on the dangers facing the Arctic and the Monaco Blue Initiative which is bringing together specialists in order to take measures for the protection of the oceans Sustainable initiatives that reflect the long term commitment of the brand which also makes a special contribution through three crucial projects the partnerships with the National Geographic Society and Mission Blue and the Rolex Awards for Enterprise Projects for the future Since 1976 155 award winners involved in the fields of science exploration health the environment and cultural heritage have received the watchmaking brand s support under the Rolex Awards for Enterprise scheme A commitment that has largely borne fruit since some of these initiatives have produced concrete benefits for the environment Some 23 million trees have been replanted across the world 43 endangered animal species and 30 major ecosystems have been protected including 57 000 km2 of Amazon forest and hundreds of new species have been discovered Technological innovations have also been developed in the health field to improve the living conditions of populations exposed to harsh economic or environmental situations An ocean of hope Among the essential initiatives covered by Perpetual Planet the Mission Blue project run by the well known explorer and oceanographer Sylvia Earle has enjoyed support from Rolex since 2014 Mission Blue seeks to create a network of marine protected areas MPA across the planet with the aim of preserving species and ecosystems that play a strategic role inspiring local populations and giving them the means to act raising public interest and generating support for actions protecting all the world s oceans Called Hope Spots these marine areas designate specific zones identified as being vital for the integrity of the oceans Exploring and protecting The Perpetual Planet initiative also includes Rolex s partnership since 1954 with the National Geographic Society Links that were especially reinforced in 2017 with the aim of promoting exploration oriented towards the protection of the environment Thus in 2019 with the support of the watchmaking brand a team directed by National Geographic and Tribhuvan University launched a scientific expedition to Everest whose glaciers supply nearly a billion people with water In 2021 a second expedition was mounted to the Chilean volcano Tupungato in the Andes to install the highest weather station in the southern and western hemispheres These two expeditions are the first of a long series planned over five years and focusing on three major themes in order to analyse the impacts of climate change on the environments that fulfil essential functions for life on Earth Today the Perpetual Planet initiative covers around twenty partnerships in a multitude of scientific and environmental areas And it s only the beginning for the watchmaking brand all of whose Oyster watches bear the word Perpetual More than a simple word written on a dial it is the reflection of the philosophy and values that have been an integral part of Rolex s history Marie de Pimodan
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES 47 WATCH YOUR TIME USA ECOLOGY o paloma recio The new gamble If for a long time watchmakers have ignored the concepts of sustainability today they are making real efforts Partnerships forged with defenders of the ecological cause bear witness to this development Perfectly aware of the importance of preserving the planet and protecting the environment certain big names in watchmaking are adopting less polluting production processes ecologically responsible or recycled materials and more generally a policy that makes them more sustainable in the eyes of a clientele that has these questions at heart The watchmaking sector is thus making an effort to take part in actions seeking to protect and conserve the planet Going beyond sequins art and sport the industry s major players are now on the look out for recognized ambassadors on the ecological scene apt to boost their credibility Committed explorers researchers and photographers these are the new faces in a sector set on blowing the trumpets of sustainable development ROLE X GMT MASTER II ROLE X IS UNVEILING AN UNE XPECTED INTERPRE TATION OF THE OYSTER PERPE TUAL GMT MASTER II ON THIS VERSION THE WINDING CROWN IS POSITIONED ON THE LEF T HAND SIDE OF THE CASE THIS CONFIGUR ATION REQUIRED AN ADAP TATION OF THE ME ASUREMENT PROCEDURE IN ONE PART OF THE FINAL TESTS FOR DE TERMINING THE WATCH S PRECISION PRODUCED IN OYSTERSTEEL WITH THE OYSTER BR ACELE T THIS VERSION BE ARS A MONOBLOC CER ACHROM BE ZEL DISC IN GREEN AND BL ACK BICOLORED CER AMIC A NEW COLOR COMBINATION FOR THIS MODEL THE NEW VERSION OF THE GMT MASTER II IS EQUIPPED WITH THE CALIBER 3285 A MOVEMENT THAT INDICATES HOURS MINUTES SECONDS AND THE DATE AS WELL AS A 24 HOUR FORMAT SECOND TIME ZONE DISPL AY Rolex perfectly exemplifies this approach For almost a hundred years the Manufacture has been backing pioneers those who opened up the continents and today seek to understand them With its Perpetual Planet initiative unveiled three years ago the crown brand has made a long term commitment to support explorers and scientists in their environmental efforts notably through its association with the National Geographic Society Result for several years Rolex has rewarded young researchers in various fi elds who have been striving to preserve biodiversity explore the coral reefs identify signs of global warming etc A go o d e colo gis t is s ome one who s e e s far ahead and has lit t le fait h in pr o gr e s s s cience and te chnolo gy J a c q u e s Y v e s C o u s t e a u 1 9 1 0 1 9 9 7 From the Roof of the World to the depths of the ocean This initiative comes as no surprise given the architecture of Rolex watches timepieces that are built for adventure and have accompanied the brand s ambassadors on their odysseys across vast expanses of ice and sand on the Roof of the World and in the ocean depths We recall the ascension of Everest by Edmund Hillary and Tensing Norgay in 1953 Oyster Perpetual watches on their wrists and James Cameron s descent into the Mariana Trench in 2012 For its plunge to the deepest spot on the planet his submarine bore a Rolex Deepsea Challenge on its exterior a hark back to Piccard and Walsh s expedition on board the bathyscaphe Trieste in 1960 also equipped with a Rolex Convinced that our thirst for discovery is a key to the preservation of our earth s ecosystems the Geneva brand has been working with the prestigious oceanographer Sylvia Earle for many years With her Mission Blue project the Princess of Asturias award winner is endeavouring to weave a worldwide network of protected marine zones in order to preserve essential species and ecosystems while encouraging and reinforcing local activities and gaining the interest and support of world public opinion for action in favour of the oceans While certain initiatives are space oriented like the recent project supported by Omega seeking to eliminate waste emanating from artificial satellites the seas and oceans have undoubtedly won the most favours from the watchmaking brands In this field one of the most well known collaborations is that of Omega with the environmental activist Yann Arthus Bertrand via his GoodPlanet foundation Thanks to Omega s support his film Planet Ocean has been screened worldwide revealing the beauty of a littleknown world with a view to motivating the public for its preservation A mission in which the Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M collection of watches specially designed for underwater exploration played a part We love what we know Blancpain s Fifty Fathoms was born of this same subsea vocation in 1953 Since then the brand has been intimately linked to the world of the sea having built up solid connections with explorers photographers researchers and ecologists alongside whom the firm ran numerous oceanographic projects under the Ocean Commitment banner Among them the Gombessa expeditions of the French biologist and photographer Laurent Ballesta Each expe dition sought to study some of the TAG HEUER AQUAR ACER PROFESSIONAL 1000 SUPERDIVER TAG HEUER IS PRESENTING AN E XTREME EDITION OF ITS AQUAR ACER THE PROFESSIONAL 1000 SUPERDIVER A TIMEPIECE THAT IS DESIGNED FOR GRE AT MARINE DEP THS WHAT S MORE THIS NEW MODEL MARKS AN IMPORTANT MILESTONE FOR THE BR AND WHICH IS USING AN E XCLUSIVE MOVEMENT PRODUCED BY THE KENISSI MANUFACTURE FOR THE FIRST TIME NAMELY THE CALIBER TH30 00
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES rarest and hardest to observe marine creatures of the depths such as the coelacanth a legendary living fossil that was believed to have been extinct since the era of the dinosaurs Blancpain s motto In the end we will conserve only what we love we will love only what we know In keeping with this principle the Manufacture worked with nearly fifty underwater photographers of international renown including Ernest H Brooks II a veritable patriarch in this discipline Thanks to the annual publication Edition Fifty Fathoms these photographers can present the fruit of their work in order to raise public awareness of the cause of the oceans It was precisely in order to know and discover the mysterious Antarctic Ocean a gigantic marine biodiversity reserve that Hublot teamed up with the Polar Pod This zero emissions ecological boat was created by the explorer Jean Louis tienne I ECOLOGY WATCH YOUR TIME USA 48 the first man to reach the North Pole solo The Antarctic Ocean plays a key role in climate regulation accounting for 50 of the CO2 absorbed by the planet s oceans Convinced of its crucial importance Jean Louis tienne will set out for the zone on board his vertical embarkation towards the end of 2023 The Polar Pod will spend three years gathering data on biodiversity current dynamics pollution and atmospheric exchanges A positive impact The United Nations Sustainable Development Goals struck a chord with the Oris brand which achieved carbon neutrality in 2021 and carries out its own actions for the protection of water resources From that year the brand committed itself to reducing its carbon footprint by 10 per year in particular through the installation of photovoltaic panels that will cover 60 of its electricity consumption The motto Change for the Better that appears in the brand s communications inspired a good many Oris watches conceived in conjunction with ambassadors humanitarian associations and other environmental protection organizations Among these organizations are the Coral Restoration foundation which takes care of the coral reefs off the Florida coast the Spanish Institute of Oceanography which studies the underwater volcano El Hierro in the Canary Islands and the Australian Marine Conservation Society which takes action to protect the Great Barrier Reef For each of these initiatives there is a corresponding watch whose sales help finance these associations An adventurer among adventurers Mike Horn has been associated with Panerai for nearly two decades Indeed the Florence based brand accompanied him on II IIII III V VI I BLANCPAIN FIFTY FATHOMS TOURBILLON 8 DAYS THIS DIVER S WATCH III PASHA DE CARTIER MOONPHASE G R ALD GENTA S DISRUP TIVE V LO N G I N E S LEGEND DIVER S I NC E I TS L AU NC H I N 20 07 TH E IS THE OUTCOME OF A MEETING OF A GR AND COMPLICATION AND HIGH DESIGN FOR CARTIER IN THE 1980S THE PASHA DE CARTIER WATCH LONGINES LEGEND DIVER HAS APPE ALED TO AN IMPRESSIVE NUMBER PERFORMANCE ITS FLYING TOURBILLON DOES ITS ROUNDS BENEATH RE TURNS IN 2022 WITH MOON PHASES A DISTINCTIVE FE ATURE OF OF ENTHUSIASTS AT TR ACTED BY ITS SIMPLE E XPRESSION OF LON AN OPENING IN THE SLEEK BLUE DIAL THIS NEW MODEL IS AVAILABLE THE L AT TER WHICH IS CASED IN STEEL OR PINK GOLD IS THE LUMI GINES WE ALTH OF E XPERIENCE IN THE DIVER S WATCH FIELD THE IN A TITANIUM VERSION WHICH IS SURPRISINGLY LIGHT AND IN A RED NESCENT MATERIAL THAT COVERS THE ENTIRE T Y OF THE WHITE DIAL STORY CONTINUES WITH NEW MODELS IN SANDY BEIGE ASH GREY GOLD VERSION ENSURING A NOTICEABLE PRESENCE ON THE WRIST IIII GR AND SEIKO EVOLUTION 9 SPRING DRIVE GMT 9R66 WITH THEIR ROYAL BLUE AND INTENSE BURGUNDY COLORS II PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE QUARANTAQUAT TRO PANER AI S HISTORY IS UNIQUE SMOOTHLY GLIDING SECONDS HANDS THE SPRING DRIVE VI TISSOT SE ASTAR 20 0 0 PROFESSIONAL P OWERMATIC 80 THE MARKED BY INNOVATION AND THE DESIRE TO CREATE TOOLS THAT MAKE WATCHES FROM GR AND SEIKO REFLECT THE CONTINUOUS SILENT TISSOT SE ASTAR 2000 PROFESSIONAL IS THE AUTOMATIC DIVER S IT POSSIBLE TO SEEK ADVENTURE IN COMPLETE FREEDOM WITH THE AND GENTLE PASSING OF TIME THIS FEELING OF PROXIMIT Y WITH WATCH MODEL PAR E XCELLENCE PERFECTLY RELIABLE TO A PRES LAUNCH OF THE PANER AI SUBMERSIBLE QUAR ANTAQUATTRO THE 44 MM NATURE IS REINFORCED BY THIS SPRING DRIVE GMT MODEL WITH ITS SURE OF 60 BAR 600 M 2000 F T IT IS THE PROOF THAT AN UNDER CASE TAKES UP POSITION IN THE HE ART OF THE SUBMERSIBLE COL LIGHT GREY DIAL BE ARING A MOTIF OF COMPLE X TE XTURE INSPIRED WATER SPORTS WATCH AND A SOPHISTICATED AUTOMATIC TIMEPIECE LECTION OF DIVER S WATCHES JOINING THE 47 MM ET 42 MM MODELS BY THE WINTRY MORNING MIST IN THE SHINSHU REGION CAN BE BROUGHT TOGE THER IN A SINGLE INSTRUMENT 49 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES Innovative Caliber 5 The famed Coco Chanel didn t like the number four Three and Five were favorites though So when the house of Chanel added a new caliber following the Caliber 3 to its lineup this year the brand skipped the number four dubbing the new movement Caliber 5 For years the great house of Chanel has been a leader in innovative materials and designs for its timepieces releasing ceramic as a luxury material in its very first watches introduced in 1987 and creating icons like the Boyfriend watch and the Premiere Chanel also was one of the first designer brands to incorporate haute horlogerie into its timepieces bringing the tourbillon front and center on specific J 12 watches Now the brand releases not just a new J 12 Flying Diamond Tourbillon haute horology watch but an entirely new in house made caliber that marks the fifth Manufacture caliber from the brand Several years in the making the Caliber 5 was designed in Paris by Chanel s director of the Watchmaking Creation Studio Arnaud Chastaingt The entire caliber was then developed in the brand s Manufacture in La Chaux de Fonds Switzerland according to the strictest standards of excellence In fact the sophisticated finishing even includes the Chanel lion s head signature on the mechanism It represents Chanel s first Flying Tourbillon inhouse movement and each caliber is lovingly and meticulously assembled by hand A work of exemplary watchmaking and technical prowess the Caliber 5 boasts a flying tourbillon meaning it is not held in place by two bridges but rather by only one with a solitaire diamond in the center of the cage Incisively cut so that the many facets of the diamond beautifully reflect the light the stone continually turns with the tourbillon cage for a mesmerizing effect The single 0 18 carat diamond on the cage is an exquisite complement to the technically advanced tourbillon escapement that compensates for errors in timekeeping due to the effect of gravity on the watch in certain positions on the wrist For this stone we created a bespoke 65 facet cut a unique cut for a unique watch and one that I continue to find fascinating and inspiring Diamonds were Gabrielle Chanel s favorite gemstone says Chastaingt adding that placing a diamond of this size on a tourbillon was an obsession for me and a technical challenge that the Chanel Manufacture teams executed magnificently Faithful to the graphic identity of Chanel Fine Watchmaking the architecture of the movement is constructed in a series of circular bridges In black naturally The brilliance of the diamonds is echoed by the extreme finesse of the beveling and the exceptional finishes of the movement A house of artistic creation This superlative manual wind flying tourbillon movement is then placed inside a 38mm J12 case with a transparent sapphire crystal case back to allow for viewing of the finely finished haute horology movement The case back of the J12 Diamond Tourbillon watch which is being created in a limited edition of just 55 pieces references the edition Limited to 55 The watch which is water resistant to 50 meters offers 42 hours of power reserve In order to showcase the beauty of the movement the watch is devoid of a traditional dial and instead showcases the tourbillon cage at 6 00 in a large aperture with other movement parts skeletonized and exposed on the dial side The circular aperture is rimmed with diamonds and even the hands are diamond set for a total of 49 brilliant cut diamonds on the dial Two versions of the new black ceramic timepiece are being offered One version boasts a glossy ceramic case and bracelet with an 18 karat white gold bezel set with 34 baguette cut diamonds weighing 3 50 carats Even the crown is made in white gold and set with a brilliant cut diamond The second version is a sleek black model made with case and bracelet of matt black ceramic boasting a black PVD coated steel fixed bezel with black baguette cut ceramic ring Chanel is a house of artistic creation and its watchmaking is no exception to this rule The freedom of its creative expression and the excellence of its savoir faire are inseparable from each other says Chastaingt This is fundamental given that every Chanel creation in Watchmaking and Fine Watchmaking combines these two basic essentials Roberta Naas CHAN E L J12 DIAMOND TOURBILLON CALIBER 5 TH I S M ODEL I S A EXPOSED MECHANISM WITH ITS SOPHISTICATED FINISH IS ADORNED TECHNICAL PROWESS AND AESTHETIC ACHIEVEMENT AND AN EXPRES WITH A LION S HEAD THE SIGNATURE OF CHANEL HAUTE HORLOGERIE SION OF CHANEL S WATCHMAKING SAVOIR FAIRE DESIGNED IN PARIS MANUFACTURE MOVEMENTS A TRUE TECHNICAL TOUR DE FORCE A BY ARNAUD CHASTAINGT DIRECTOR OF THE CHANEL WATCHMAK SOLITAIRE DIAMOND IS POSITIONED IN THE CENTER OF THE FLYING ING CRE ATION STUDIO AND DE VELOPED AND ASSEMBLED BY THE TOURBILLON CAGE PRECISELY CUT TO MA XIM IZE ITS BRILLIANCE CHAN EL M AN UFACTUR E AT L A CHAUX DE FON DS SW I T ZER L AN D THE DIAMOND TURNS AROUND TO THE RHY THM OF THE SECONDS THE CALIBER 5 IS THE FIRST FLYING TOURBILLON MOVEMENT MADE CRE ATING A HYPNOTIC EFFECT THE BE ZEL HANDS AND CROWN ARE IN HOUSE EQUALLY BE AUTIFUL FROM BOTH FRONT AND BACK THE SE T WITH DIAMONDS
All you need to know about watches since the year 2000 SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES ECOLOGY WATCH YOUR TIME USA 50 his last four expeditions Arktos North Pole Pangaea and Pole2Pole creating a series of watches for the occasion in limited editions that have become collectors items Under the slogan Explore learn and act Mike Horn and Panerai seek to draw attention to the importance of protecting the planet s natural resources That is why Panerai decided to work together with UNESCO to develop activities promoting awareness of the oceans as part of the United Nations Decade of Ocean Science for Sustainable Development 2021 2030 The objective is to defend a sustainable environment and a healthy ocean explains the watchmaker whose production started with naval instruments But that is no reason for Panerai to for Discover the 2020 2030 collection on the watch book com get terra firma its Neuch tel site claims to have a neutral environmental impact To this end the Manufacture reduced its CO2 emissions as far as possible both in production and in its sales activities As Panerai has indeed understood the recycling of materials plays a decisive role in sustainable development Thus in 2021 the brand unveiled its Submersible eLAB ID a concept watch composed of over 98 recycled materials After this first model three versions of the Luminor Marina are being proposed this year in eSteel recycled steel In the same spirit Panerai promises that 30 of its models will be produced from recycled materials by 2025 Decidedly ecological watchmaking is no longer a mirage II III 2022 edition IIII I JAEGER LECOULTRE POLARIS DATE INSPIRED BY THE III HUBLOT BIG BANG INTEGRAL TITANIUM THINNER THAN MEMOVOX POL ARIS OF 1968 THE POL ARIS COLLECTION E VER IN ITS NEW TITANIUM CASE THIS MODEL OFFERS A H A S D E F I N E D T H E S P I R I T O F S P O R T Y E L EG A N C E AT STRE AMLINED PERSPECTIVE OF TIME MODESTLY NAMED J A E G E R L E C O U LT R E U S E F U L F U N C T I O N S V I N TA G E TIME ONLY IT REFOCUSES ON THE ESSENTIAL HOURS AESTHE TIC TR AITS AND CUT TING EDGE CHRONOME TRIC MINUTES SECONDS AND DATE WITHOUT ANY LOSS OF THE PERFORMANCE CHAR ACTERIZE THE POLARIS WHOSE DIAL MANUFACTURE S CHAR ACTERISTIC TR AITS NOW TAKES ON A DEEP GREEN HUE IIII CHANEL J12 WANTED IN TERMS OF HONORING THE II BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO TADAO ANDO LIMITED EDITION HOUSE S CODES THE J12 WANTED DE CHANEL 38 M M BVLGARI HAS JOINED FORCES WITH THE JAPANESE ARCHI IS THE PERFECT E XPRESSION OF CONTR ADICTION AND TECT TADAO ANDO FOR WHAT IS A MOST CONTEMPL ATIVE PAR ADOX GR APHIC ELEMENTS HAVE BEEN COMPLE TELY WAY TO D I S P L AY T H E T I M E S E T I N S I D E A N EN G R AV ED REMOVED TO MAKE WAY FOR THE ICONIC SIX LE T TERS SPIR AL A CRESCENT MOON REPRESENTS THE TR ANSITORY STRE TCHING E X TR AVAGANTLY ACROSS THE DIAL AND NATURE OF TIME BUT IS ALSO INTENDED AS A SYMBOL OF OVERL APPING ONTO THE BE ZEL HOPE AND A PROSPEROUS FUTURE Elegant Attitude Across 190 Years Exactly 190 years old this year Swiss watch brand Longines founded in 1832 in St Imier has long been a leader in innovative technology cutting edge spirit and elegant designs With a slogan of Elegance is an attitude this brand has remained faithful to its founding principles I SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES 51 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS With an almost cult like following for its sophisticated designs and technical advances Longines offers several pillar collections that range from classic lines like its beloved rectangular Longines DolceVita and coveted Heritage or the Longines Master collection series to sport watches inspired by iconic models from the past that are dedicated to pioneering pilots and divers In fact the depth and breadth of the line is one of the strong points for this brand especially given that Longines never compromises on excellence or precision Since 1889 when the brand patented a trademark for the Longines name and the now famed winged hourglass logo both of which it had been using since 1867 it has boasted the winged Hourglass as its logo which is the oldest trademark logo still in use in its original form Over the centuries Longines has won multiple awards and has been singled out for its technological advances including pioneering work in high frequency movements chronographs and timing devices So advanced is the brand in the timing realm that today it is the reigning Official Timekeeper of a host of events globally including skiing equestrian sports and the Commonwealth Games As inclusive as its event sponsorships are so is its list of brand ambassadors diverse Among its ambassadors award winning actress Kate Winslet Emmy nominated actor Reg Jean Page extreme athlete G raldine Fasnacht and nearly a dozen others including equestrian and ski athletes who engage with Longines watch lovers around the world LONGINES SPIRIT ZULU TIME THE LONGINES SPIRIT COLLECTION IS LONG INE S DOLCEVITA X Y V Y THE WI NGED HOURG L ASS BR AND IS E XPANDING WITH A MULTIPLE TIME ZONE WATCH A MODEL THAT IS L AUNCH I NG THE NE W LONG I NES DO LCE V I TA X Y V Y LI NE SW I SS INTRINSICALLY LINKED TO THE BR AND S PIONEERING SPIRIT THE NEW D ES I G N ER Y VO N N E R E I C H M U TH H AS G I V EN TH E FA M OUS R ECT LONGINES SPIRIT ZULU TIME CORRESPONDS TO THE WATCHMAKING A N G U L A R T I M E P I EC E S A N E W I D E N T I T Y W I T H S O P H I S T I C AT E D BR AND S EXPERTISE IN THIS T YPE OF TIMEPIECE WHICH DATES BACK LE ATHER STR APS ADORNED AND REINFORCED WITH METAL DETAILS A HUNDRED YE ARS IT OWES ITS ORIGINS AND ITS NAME TO THE FIRST THEI R FI N ISHES ARE I M PEC CAB LE AND FE ATURE STR I K I NG REFER LO N G I N ES DOU B LE T I M E ZO N E WR I ST WATC H M A D E I N 1925 A N D EN C E S TO T H E B E LOV ED EQ U E S T R I A N WO R L D O F T H E W I N G ED FE ATURING THE ZULU FL AG ON ITS DIAL HOURG L ASS BR AND Top Watches Of 2022 With such a wealth of history and ongoing pioneering Longines naturally continues to excel in the realm of product innovation This year as the brand celebrates its 190th anniversary it unveils a host of important new timepieces Perhaps top among them is the Longines Master collection 190th Anniversary watch that just made its debut in September 2022 Several variations of the exceptional mechanical watches are being offered including two limited editions of just 190 pieces Each 40mm watch is powered by a cutting edge mechanical self winding movement with a silicon balance spring and 72 hours of power reserve The Longines Master col lection 190th Anniversary watches boast stylized engraved Arabic numerals and blued steel hands for the steel version gilt hands for the yellow gold version and pink hands for the pink gold model These watches are sold with a five year warranty Also of significance this year are several timepiece collections that embrace Longines very rich heritage in aviation After all this is the brand that was trusted in the cockpit of pioneering pilots like Amelia Earhart Amy Johnson Clyde Pangborn or Charles Lindbergh One new offering is a 37mm version of the beloved Longines Spirit collection that is the epitome of aviation timepieces blended with state of the art technology while another is a long anticipated offshoot of the Longines Spirit line called the Longines Spirit Zulu Time watch This new chapter in the Longines Spirit history boasts the ability to showcase time in multiple zones around the world For women and for slimmer wrist sizes Longines pulls out all the stops with its new La Grande Classique de Longines watches each with a ring of diamonds ensconcing the bezel and the beloved Longines DolceVita series This year the brand releases superb new colorways of the delightful Longines DolceVita including one with a bold cinnamon dial and one with a midnight black dial each with matching colored straps making them the perfect statement to underscore the Longines tag line Elegance is an attitude Roberta Naas
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES 53 WATCH YOUR TIME USA CERTIFICATION o vincent daveau Let there be light Over the last five years more and more watchmaking brands have been adopting an ethical approach based on authenticity traceability and recycling backed up by certifications Happy the man who has been able to learn the cause s of things CHANEL J12 X R AY RED EDITION IN 2020 TO MARK THE T WENTIE TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE J12 CHANEL HIGHLIGHTED THE CONCEP T OF TR ANSPARENCY AND PRESENTED THE J12 X R AY WITH ITS CASE AND BR ACELE T LINKS CUT FROM R AW CRYSTAL SAPPHIRE IN 2022 THE J12 X R AY RED EDITION RE VE ALS ITS CURVES AND THOSE OF ITS MOVEMENT THE J12 SILHOUE T TE REMAINS UNCHANGED BUT THE ACCENT IS ON RED ONE OF THE MAISON S SIGNATURE COLORS Very fortunately sustainable development has become a veritable social phenomenon Thus the watchmaking brands are paying increasing attention to the environment and putting in place ecological strategies What is good for the planet is good for the company and its image Thirty years ago watchmaking brands communications centred above all on their humanitarian actions Today ecology requires local actions in order to contribute to the improvements that are essential for slowing global warming The Chernobyl accident gave us a sinister reminder of the fact that pollution knows no borders And the same goes for the measures taken to limit it Moreover what the brands do to improve their immediate environment is all the more positive in that the actions taken have an immediately comprehensible and beneficial contagious effect on a maximum number of people This increasing consciousness results in participation albeit modest in the saving of the planet Virgil 7 0 1 9 B C Ethical chic The argument that the watchmaking industry causes little pollution and is concerned about the environment is repeated as a leitmotiv by all the brands It is well known that the Manufactures draw most of their energy from green and renewable sources As in the 19th century they use hydroelectricity to power their machines in a mountainous country like Switzerland where energy from hydraulic sources covers nearly 70 of the country s current consumption Given their low demand for raw materials the layman deduces that watchmaking brands are not at all responsible for the huge devastation that is plaguing the planet Despite all this the companies in the most visible branches of the industry anticipate the most restrictive environmental regulations and sing the praises of irreproachable industrial ethics As in the past high quality watches are for the most part fabricated by qualified craftsmen using ancestral processes but now equipped with optimized digital control machine tools to limit heat losses and encourage the recycling of oils and waste Also mechanical watches offer a guarantee of extremely sustainable functioning since the only energy input comes from a spring wound by the movements of the wearer or by the turning of the crown What s more they are mostly repairable without any time limit All these qualities mean that mechanical time measuring instruments are by nature ecologically responsible products as brands such as Rolex Patek Philippe and JaegerLeCoultre like to remind us Normally these explanations should convince the most ecologically exacting layman Only watchmaking ecological responsibility is no longer enough This is why more and more brands want to go further CHOPARD ALPINE EAGLE FROZEN INSPIRED BY THE GR ACE OF THE E AGLE AND THE MA JEST Y OF THE ALPS CHOPARD S SPORT Y CHIC COLLECTION WELCOMES A SERIES OF NEWS INTERPRE TATIONS IN THE ALPINE E AGLE FROZEN WATCHES ENTIRELY GEM SE T ON THE BE ZEL CASE AND INTEGR ATED BR ACELE T THE DIAMONDS AND BLUE AND R AINBOW SAPPHIRES E VOKE THE MINUSCULE FL AKES OF FROST COVERING THE ALPINE GL ACIERS
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES Certification on all sides To please the proponents of a more radical ecology those entities most concerned about their impact redouble their actions and labels to demonstrate their commitment on matters of ethics and ecological responsibility The Chopard brand uses only ethical gold in its production that is to say metal bought from certified suppliers In mid2021 to remove any doubt about its supplies IWC obtained the Chain of Custody CoC certification issued by the Responsible Jewellery Council RJC to guarantee complete traceability of the gold and platinum used by the company At JaegerLeCoultre also worried about the traceability of its precious metals the Manufacture uses mainly recycled gold for the production of its timepieces If some brands remain more evasive on these questions of traceability they all show a desire to adopt CERTIFICATION WATCH YOUR TIME USA 54 ethical and responsible practices We all recall the film Blood Diamond and the documentaries that followed revealing the devastation caused by clandestine gold mining We are all aware of the concerns about Russian diamonds Recycling on the menu Today more than ever the watchmaking industry needs to demonstrate the battle it is waging for industrial ecology and the defence of the environment A struggle that largely focuses on the preservation of the oceans The fight against plastics is at the heart of the actions and particularly benefits the companies specialized in the recycling of used fishing nets Oris turns them into dials Alpina into 70 of the cases for a series of ecological watches and others make straps boxes and window display items from them Some like Omega and Blancpain sponsor beach cleaning operations wild animal rescues or scientific expeditions while others like Carl F Bucherer focus their attention on saving marine animals such as the manta rays To everyone their cause it could be said Thus the brands Cartier Oris Ulysse Nardin Longines IWC and many others offer straps in materials of non animal origin In the end it has to be said that sustainable development is still struggling to gain a footing in the face of individual liberties For the watchmaking brands though ecological responsibility is no longer an option but truly an obligation if they are to preserve their relations with clients increasingly aware of social and environmental issues There is still a long road ahead particularly bearing in mind that the main watchmaking markets are also the planet s most polluting countries But isn t this a magnificent opportunity for the luxury industry to give the example A watchmaking consecration AKIO NAITO PR SIDENT OF SEIKO WATCH CORPOR ATION I II IIII III V VI I ROLE X OYSTER PER PETUAL YACHT MASTER 40 WH EN TH E S K Y III RICHARD MILLE RM 38 02 TOURBILLON BUBBA WATSON GOLF V LONGINES SPIRIT 37 MM THE LONGINES SPIRIT MODEL CAN NOW MEE TS THE SE A WHEN THE SUN EMERGES FROM THE WAVES THE MAKES AN IDEAL TEST BENCH FOR RICHARD MILLE WATCHES ON THE BE WORN IN A 37 MM VERSION WITH A STAINLESS STEEL BR ACELE T AIR IS FILLED WITH MOIR EFFECTS AND FLEE TING COLORS THE NEW WRIST OF AN EXCELLENT LONG DRIVE PL AYER LIKE BUBBA WATSON IT OR A LE ATHER STR AP IT SPORTS A NEW SUN BRUSHED CHAMPAGNE YACHT MASTER 40 SEIZES THESE EPHEMER AL INSTANTS ITS BEZEL SET MUST BE CAPABLE OF STANDING UP TO THE CONSTR AINTS IMPOSED BY COLORED DIAL AND IS EQUIPPED WITH THE L888 CALIBER AN AUTO WITH DIAMONDS AND SAPPHIRES IN SHADES OF A ZURE SILVER AND ABRUP T STOPS AND ACCELER ATIONS THESE ELEMENTS WERE TAKEN MATIC MECHANICAL MOVEMENT WITH COSC CERTIFIED PRECISION A PINK IS INSPIRED BY THE AUROR A BORE ALIS AND THE DAWN GLOW INTO ACCOUNT FOR THE RM 38 02 WHICH COMES WITH AN EXTERIOR SILICON BAL ANCE SPRING AND A 72 HOUR POWER RESERVE II ULYSSE NARDIN OCEAN R ACE DIVER ULYSSE NARDIN IS ACCELER IN PINK THE GOLFER S FAVOURED COLOR VI LOUIS VUIT TON TAMBOUR SLIM VIVIENNE CASINO ON THE DIAL OF ATING ITS USE OF INNOVATIVE ALTERNATIVE MATERIALS ANNOUNCING IIII HUBLOT BIG BANG INTEGRAL GREEN CERAMIC MONOBLOC MON THIS WATCH T WO APERTURES INDICATE THE DATE WITH PANACHE THE L AUNCH OF THE VERY FIRST DIVER MODEL L ARGELY COMPOSED OCHROMATIC MONOMATERIAL SUCH ARE THE CHAR ACTERISTICS E V ERY S I X T Y M I N U T ES T H E N U M ER A L I N D I CAT I N G T H E H OU RS OF RECYCLED FISHING NE TS THE SWISS WATCHMAKER HAS BEEN OF THIS BIG BANG INTEGR AL CER AMIC PROPOSED IN GREEN SINCE INSTANTLY CHANGES PL ACE A FIRST IN THE HISTORY OF MODERN MAKING MARINE CHRONOME TERS OF INCOMPAR ABLE RELIABILIT Y 2020 OR 15 YE ARS AF TER ITS L AUNCH THE BIG BANG HAS BORNE AN WATCHMAKING THIS WRIST WATCH CONTAINS AN ALTERNATING JUMP FOR E XPLORERS SINCE 1846 INTEGR ATED BR ACELE T THAT TAKES UP THE CASE S 100 CER AMIC ING HOURS MECHANISM SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES 55 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS Since its watchmaking emancipation in 2017 Grand Seiko has made good headway towards the realm of the greats This year the brand is presenting a grand complication as a world first In 2020 it had prepared the ground by unveiling a concept movement which could easily have been taken for a pure exercise in style This would have been to misjudge the Grand Seiko brand and its determination to join the elite circle of haute horlogerie brands This year the brand is turning trial concepts into reality by presenting the Kodo Constant force Tourbillon model a world first at the Watches and Wonders trade fair Ever since the brand s inception 62 years ago Grand Seiko was designed to be the very best watch we could create explained Akio Naito President of Seiko Watch Corp It represented our founder Kintaro Hattori s dream to create what he called exquisite timepieces Kodo reflects his dream and Grand Seiko s never ending pursuit of highaccuracy watchmaking It incorporates a patented mechanism in which a constant force mechanism is integrated with a tourbillon as a single unit on the same axis to deliver a level of stable accuracy unprecedented for a Grand Seiko mechanical movement So yes the Kodo is a significant milestone in the 62 year history of Grand Seiko But it also reflects our commitment to innovate in the future As you say Kodo is our first grande complication It will not be our last The rapid rise in Grand Seiko s manufacturing capabilities is an unmistakable sign Grand Seiko watches for a long time reserved for Japanese aficionados alone embarked on their international conquest in 2010 giving rise to an independent brand managed as such seven years later For the last two years Grand Seiko has also had its own studio in Shizukuishi in the north of the island of Honshu for the production of all the brand s mechanical models And having come so far the brand has no intention of stopping In the wake of the Kodo model Kodo meaning heartbeat in Japanese it is in the process of setting up a new studio in Ginza Tokyo a stone s throw from the site where the Seiko adventure began in 1881 The Atelier Ginza is unlike any of our other studios said Akio Naito It will be a creative space where the finest watchmakers and designers from every part of our company can come together to develop new ideas and explore new technologies and new designs We hope that the Atelier will create truly unique one of a kind timepieces that bring new value to watchmaking Kodo is an excellent example a hint of what we expect the Atelier will create in the future Natural affinity For Akio Naito there is therefore no doubt that Grand Seiko s strategy was the right one We are extremely satisfied with our decision to open up sales to the global market A great many watch lovers from all over the world have come to appreciate Grand Seiko over the past twelve years I find it quite remarkable that in this relatively short period and in the even shorter time since Grand Seiko s independence from Seiko in 2017 Grand Seiko has established such a strong presence in major markets around the world Sales have been quite robust and are still growing strongly It is with five well established collections that the brand is now advancing its pawns Alongside the Masterpiece Heritage Elegance and Sport models the latest Evolution 9 has recently become a talking point The latter collection exhibits a new grammar of design that enhances the Grand Seiko Style established in 1967 continued Akio Naito One of the first expressions of the new Evolution 9 style was the Hi Beat White birch model that won the Men s Watch prize at the 2021 Grand Prix d Horlogerie de Geneve Needless to say all five of our collections are very important to Grand Seiko Each one has its own unique characteristics and with all five I think Grand Seiko now covers the full spectrum as a luxury watch brand Christophe Roulet GR AND SEIKO KODO CONSTANT FORCE TOURBILLON SLGT003 WITH G R A N D S E I KO E VOLU TION 9 COLLECTION SLGA015 T H E B L AC K THIS WATCH FROM THE COLLECTION NAMED AF TER THE JAPANESE STRE AM THAT FLOWS ALONG THE SHORES OF THE JAPANESE ARCHI WORD FOR HE ARTBE AT KODO GR AND SEIKO PRESENTS ITS FIRST PEL AGO ONE OF THE STRONGEST OCE AN CURRENTS IN THE WORLD M EC H A N I CA L C O M P L I CAT I O N WATC H I N A 4 3 8 0 M M D I A M E T E R I N S P I R E D T H E D E E P B L AC K C O LO R O F T H E T E X T U R E D D I A L O F PL ATINUM AND TITANIUM CASE WE FIND AN INNOVATIVE AND STA T H I S N E W D I V E R S WATC H P R O P O S E D BY G R A N D S E I KO I N I T S BLE CALIBER WITH A DAI LY RUNNING R ATE ERROR M E ASURED AT E VO LU T I O N 9 C O L L EC T I O N WAT E R R E S I S TA N T TO 20 0 M E T R E S 5 3 SECONDS IT COMBINES A TOURBILLON AND A CONSTANT FORCE T H I S WATC H I S D R I V E N BY T H E S P R I N G D R I V E CA L I B E R 9 R A5 A MECHANISM IN A SINGLE UNIT ON A SINGLE A XIS A WORLD FIRST M OV E M E N T W I T H A P R EC I S I O N O F 10 S EC O N D S P E R M O N T H
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 56 SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES 57 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS Freak Co A 50 year reign The Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet a watchmaking icon among icons is celebrating its half century of existence at the same time as Fran ois Henry Bennahmias ends his first decade at the head of the brand This double anniversary underlines the formidable success of an extraordinary watchmaker Ulysse Nardin opened up a new path for watchmaking with the Freak its first model appearing in 2001 A concentration of innovation this watch propelled time measurement into the third millennium CATHERINE R NIER CEO JAEGER LECOULTRE FR AN OIS HENRY BENNAHMIAS CEO OF AUDEMARS PIGUET Between Fran ois Henry Bennahmias CEO of Audemars Piguet and the Royal Oak the brand s icon the parallels practically leap out at you Here is a frank and robust watch with sporty elegance that managed to impose its style at once precious and casual in a world cruelly lacking in audacity And there is a frank and robust man previously a professional golfer who managed to impose his style at once direct and casual in a world where his outspokenness clearly proved an exception And by a quirk of the calendar the man and the watch both pass important milestones this year 2022 The Royal Oak is celebrating its half century of existence having reaffirmed year after year its status as an essential watchmaking icon while Fran ois Henry Bennahmias celebrates his ten years at the helm of a brand that he joined in 1994 A brand that he has masterfully guided to a place in the top four Swiss watchmaking companies if we refer to the latest ranking established by the American bank Morgan Stanley A simple detour via the Vall e de Joux offers a glimpse of this formidable progress with a brand in the process of building a small watchmaking empire on its historical place of residence in Le Brassus It could be said that it all began with the Mus e Atelier a futuristic and sustainable project started in 2012 The H tel des Horlogers nearing completion was next in line before manufacturing needs also gave rise to a construction programme a new production unit in Le Locle for complicated watch calibers and an extension to the Forges Manufacture known as L Arc currently under way In all an additional 27 000 m2 or four football fields completely self financed AU D E M AR S PI G U E T ROYAL OAK 50TH ANNIVERSARY AUTOMATIC AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK JUMBO EXTRA THIN OPENWORKED CHRONOGR APH THE FLYBACK CHRONOGR APH CALIBER 4401 HAS 39 AUDEMARS PIGUE T IS INTRODUCING A NEW GENER ATION OF THE JUST POWERED THE 41 MM ROYAL OAK IN STAINLESS STEEL FOR THE ROYAL OAK JUMBO EXTRA THIN OPENWORKED MODEL CELEBRATING F I RST T I M E TH I S M OVEM ENT OFFERS I M PROVED C H RONO M E TRY THE ROYAL OAK S 50TH ANNIVERSARY AVAIL ABLE IN STAINLESS STEEL AND AN INSTANTLY JUMPING DATE FOR GRE ATER E ASE OF USE IT IS AND 18K PINK GOLD VERSIONS THESE TIMEPIECES ARE FIT TED WITH ALSO EQUIPPED WITH A VERTICAL COUPLING SYSTEM AND A BUILT IN THE MANUFACTURE S NEW E XTR A THIN SKELE TONIZED AUTOMATIC COLUMN WHEEL MOVEMENT THE CALIBER 7124 AND THE ANNIVERSARY OSCILLATING The evolution of the Royal Oak It hardly need be said that the Royal Oak designed by G rald Genta and launched in 1972 played a large part in the success seen under Fran oisHenry Bennahmias leadership today accounting for a dominant share of sales Audacious even iconoclastic in its beginnings with its stainless steel case housing an extra thin automatic movement its octagonal bezel fixed by means of visible hexagonal screws and its built in stainless steel bracelet the Royal Oak became known as the archetypal sporty WEIGHT VISIBLE THROUGH THE SAPPHIRE CASE BACK chic watch Inspired by the cultural and industrial revolution of the 1970s unveiled as the quartz crisis arrived this watch marrying a sporty character with long established know how announced a new era in Haute Horlogerie declares the brand For its fifty years while there was certainly no question of modifying the watch s characteristic traits it has nonetheless seen a new development in its design Conserving the model s original 1972 aesthetic features the Royal Oak s new references have adopted slight alterations to the case dial and bracelet bringing the collection firmly into the modern era explains Audemars Piguet Also on the menu for this jubilee new Manufacture calibers and an oscillating weight specially developed for this anniversary which will equip the majority of the new models to be brought out by the brand over the year We consider these fifty years not as a finishing line but rather as a transition for a brand that was founded 147 years ago but continues to live its second youth comments Fran ois Henry Bennahmias There is just so much to do with regard to adaptation to the digital world customer experience and the distribution network which we seek to make more and more selective The aim is always to do our best for the client while yielding nothing of the informality so characteristic of Audemars Piguet A recipe that brings joy over the centuries Eric Dumatin Nowadays watchmaking UFOs those watches that destructure the measurement of time amaze only those people who don t appreciate that the time is not just a basic piece of information given by any mobile telephone In other words these models that have given depth to the dial transformed going trains into works of kinetic art and turned the codes of time mechanics upside down have become as respected as watches conceived in the grand tradition And for very good reason they have given watchmaking a new dimension where innovation and unbridled creativity play primordial roles So it took watchmakers with plenty of mettle to attempt the impossible Ulysse Nardin was clearly one of them With its Freak presented in 2001 the brand opened up new horizons for contemporary watchmaking to propel it into the third millennium In short we could say that there was the classical watch with main plate gear train and bridges and then came the Freak to call everything into question No more crown replaced by the notched bezel for setting and the case back for winding no more dial which left room for a multilevel caliber no more hands their place being taken by the entire movement on an arm that rotates to indicate the minutes together with a rotating disc for the hours a regulating device that is half way between a carousel and a tourbillon with a balance wheel housed in a structure rotating in time with the movement namely one at Endless exploration Its heritage It s undoubtedly towards Freak X in particular that we should turn The little cousin of the first Freak models this watch appeared as the collection s entry level thus more affordable model The crown is back for correcting the time but the movement is still equipped with a carousel rotating on its axis once per hour to indicate the passing time Gaining in simplicity and boldness the movement possesses fewer wheels Ulysse Nardin explains Dial and hands also disappear Thus it is the central bridge and one of the wheels that indicate the minutes and hours respectively The new UN 230 caliber also inherits the light weight and extra wide silicon balance wheel fitted with nickel inertia blocks and stabilizing micro blades It s precisely this X version of the Freak that we come across again this year with a dial in aventurine which adds a touch of elegance to the model But if the Freak X plays the simplicity card the Freak S also presented this year proves every bit as disruptive as its worthy predecessors This time it s a twin reactor spaceship that takes up position in the watch s interior The brand s developers have conceived the first inclined double oscillator with vertical differential and automatic winding In doing so they have made use of DiamonSil technology for the oscillators and the highly efficient grinder winding system another of the Freak s innovations The Freak is a watch with a revolutionary spirit that is regularly stimulated by new technical challenges sums up Patrick Pruniaux CEO of Ulysse Nardin Christophe Roulet ULYSSE NARDIN FREAK S AT FIRST VIEW THIS NEW FRE AK S RESEM ULYSSE NARDIN FREAK X AVENTURINE THE FRE AK X AVENTURINE IS BLES A T WIN RE ACTOR SPACE VESSEL IN RE ALIT Y THE BR AND S EQUIPPED WITH A REGUL ATING ORGAN BAL ANCE PALLE T FORK rotation per hour and a generous size of 45 mm in diameter to present this watchmaking revelation in a case that it merits And as if revolutionizing the movement s arrangement wasn t enough the innovation extended to the movement itself Looking first at materials the Freak was the first watch to incorporate silicon into its escapement followed by synthetic diamond then silicon coated with DiamonSil synthetic diamond Then turning to the architecture we have the revolutionary Dual Ulysse escapement with its two toothed driving wheels acting directly on the axis of the balance wheel There s no need to expand the list For twenty years the Freak has been a real watchmaking research and development laboratory producing some little marvels DE VELOPERS HAVE CONCEIVED THE FIRST DOUB LE OSC I LL ATOR ESCAPE WHEEL IN SILICON WITH ITS SLEEK DESIGN THIS 43 MM WITH A DIFFERENTIAL AND AUTOMATIC WINDING THANKS TO THE DIAMETER WATCH LIVES UP TO THE FRE AK PEDIGREE EQUIPPED WITH GRINDER SYSTEM T WICE AS EFFICIENT AS A TR ADITIONAL WINDING A ROTATING CAROUSEL MOVEMENT THAT SERVES AS A MINUTES HAND MECHANISM THE PRINCIPLE OF THE FRE AK R ANGE REMAINS INTACT ABOVE THE PL ATE OF AVENTURINE THAT DECOR ATES THE MOVEMENT
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES Extraleganza FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 58 Where elegance meets extravagance you find the extraleganza of a brand established in 1874 the very core of Piaget culture as presented by the brand s CEO Benjamin Comar BENJAMIN COMAR CEO OF PIAGE T At the Watches and Wonders trade fair in Geneva the Piaget stand was all mirrors and trompe l il intended to divert the visitor towards the secrets of a brand adorned with a thousand lights Indeed this was the over riding question at the presentation of the year s new products with some spectacular jewelry watches so Piaget These last few years the brand has certainly put the emphasis on its jewellery range intended for a feminine clientele recalls Benjamin Comar CEO at Piaget since June 2021 And that s very fortunate because it is a segment that is doing particularly well Piaget has always been a brand that caters as much for women as men Everything is a question of balance and to keep it we are going to spend the coming months continuing to focus on the brand s watchmaking and particularly for men with our Piaget Polo In the meantime at Watches and Wonders it was definitely the ladies who were privileged with the new pieces presented in the Limelight Gala collection A range that in my view embodies the jewellery watch par excellence and the quintessence of the lady s watch from Piaget a symbol of extravagance and elegance at the same time continues Benjamin Comar What I call extraleganza which is at the core of the Piaget culture This designation perfectly suits the Limelight Gala Precious in white gold with its malachite dial encircled by its asymmetric bezel set with diamonds and tsavorites forming a colour gradient This exceptional piece is equipped with a bracelet engraved with Palace decoration a veritable signature of Piaget with a texture that evokes the fabric of an haute couture dress thanks to subtle enamelling Master of the extra thin watch It is also the jeweller s know how that has been put to the test with the Piaget Polo Skeleton entirely set with 1 746 diamonds on the case bezel crown and bracelet making an incomparable housing for the 1200S1 automatic extra thin movement 2 4 mm in depth and fully skeletonized The slategrey movement is inspired by Piaget s famous 1200P extra thin automatic movement which after a transformation that has taken more than PIAGET TRIBUTE ALTIPLANO ULTIMATE CONCEPT PIAGET IS RELE AS PIAGET POLO SKELETON DIAMOND PAVED THE NEW PIAGET POLO IS ING A UNIQUE VERSION OF THE ALTIPL ANO ULTIMATE CONCEP T AN AN ODE TO HAUTE HORLOGERIE WITH ITS E XTR A THIN MECHANISMS EMBLEM OF TECHNOLOGY AND DESIGN THAT PAYS TRIBUTE TO THE AND TO JEWELRY WITH ITS FULLY PAVED MODELS THE 1747 DIAMONDS FIRST BE ATS OF THIS RE VOLUTIONARY TIMEPIECE THE ALTIPL ANO SE T ON THIS MODEL S BR ACELE T CASE AND CROWN ADORN THE ULTIMATE CONCEP T WAS INITIALLY AN IDE A A VISION A DRE AM IN BR AND S EXTR A THIN 1200S1 WITH A THOUSAND LIGHTS THIS MANU SPITE OF THE SCEP TIC IS M OF SOM E REGARD I NG THE PROJECT S FACTURE MOVEMENT WITH A DEP TH OF JUST 2 4 MM MAKING IT ONE FE AS I B I L I T Y P I AG E T S PH I LOSO PHY H AS A LWAYS B EEN TO K EEP OF THE THINNEST AUTOMATIC CALIBERS IN THE WORLD IS ENTIRELY PUSHING BACK LIMITS SKELE TONIZED IN THIS VERSION OF THE POLO two years has become the skeletonized 1200S version For the openworking of the movement the master watchmakers have removed a lot of metal keeping only the essential to ensure optimal timekeeping Since then the caliber has seen still more improvements to become the 1200S1 evidence of Piaget s quest for the Absolute A quest that has given birth to the Altiplano Ultimate Concept watch in particular At 2 mm in depth a veritable technical feat that is practically unequalled honored by the Tribute model this year Of course we are going to continue our research regarding extra thin models adds Benjamin Comar They clearly form part of the very essence of the brand along with elegance these are Piaget s two key values And we are delighted that other brands are also getting involved in developments in this area which can really be considered a watchmaking complication in its own right Piaget has strong credentials in this field having already developed many extra thin calibers self winding and manually wound since the 1950s In parallel we will also return to the complication watches segment where Piaget undeniably has considerable expertise The skeletonized versions of the Piaget Polo are a first step in this direction and there will be others For Piaget a brand that speaks equally convincingly as a watchmaker and as a jeweler balance is a strength Eric Dumatin