Watch Your Time Europe EN 2024 : simplebooklet.com

Jocelyn PasseronPublished by Watch Your Timeand distributed with The Daily TelegraphContents13 BREGUET High ﬂyer17 EDITORIAL Between sea and sky19 HUBLOT 360° vision21 RICHARD MILLE Lighter by a Mille22 CARTIER The magician of time24 BVLGARI Mechanical symphony28 CLASSIC Simply beautiful – By Paolo De Vecchi33 TAG HEUER Pole position34 JAEGER-LECOULTRE Master of precision38 GALLERY Time ripples – By Fabrice Bouquet41 CHANEL Code couture42 ROLEX Navigating time44 RADO Master of materials46 SPORT Light water – By James Guerney51 IWC From now to eternity52 WOMEN’S Art of time – By Paloma Recio55 HERMÈS Irresistible appeal57 CHOPARD Time, gentlemen59 LOUIS VUITTON Time traveller60 TECH For a few seconds less… – By Christophe Roulet63 GRAND SEIKO Inspired by nature65 LONGINES 70 years of elegance67 AUDEMARS PIGUET Vintage charms69 MONTBLANC A taste for adventure70 ZENITH A radiant futureWatch Your Time Holding Ltd 2503 Bank of America Tower, 12 Harcourt Road, Central, Hong Kong contact@watchyourtime.comEuropean edition 2024, published simultaneously with Le Monde (France), Frankfurter Allgemeine (Germany), Il Sole 24 ore (Italy) and La Vanguardia (Spain).Produced for The Daily Telegraph on Thursday 26 September 2024 by Watch Your Time Holding who take sole responsibility for the contents. Reproduction, even partial, of material published in Watch Your Time is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved in the United Kingdom and other countries.Jocelyn Passeron is a yacht and lifestyle photographer, based in Antibes on the French Riviera, who has built excellent relations with many of the leading names in the yacht-ing world. From 2010 to 2012 he lived in South-East Asia where he worked for Titan Fleet as a sailing instructor. He also completed numerous conveyances in Thailand, the Sey-chelles, the Caribbean, Panama and in the Mediterranean on the Trident (65m) and the Lauren L (95m). Jocelyn‘s passion for sailing and adventure have led him to photograph some of the world‘s most beautiful sailing yachts and motor yachts, the most prestig-ious regattas and breathtaking seascapes. As a professional photographer since 1999 and having photographed more than 250 yachts worldwide, Jocelyn and his interna-tional team bring out the majesty and elegance of the sailing world.The Watch Your Time 2024 film crew: Stylist & DA Fernando Damasceno @afro-nando – MUA Justine Lancelle @justinelancellemakeup – Model Kristel Van de Kamp @kristelkamp – Captain and crew S/Y Halloween1926 @halloween.1926 – Cover and images by Jocelyn Passeron @theyachtphotographer, assistant Hadrien @film4yachts.com – Styling credits: Cover and page 28 (Classic) Hermès jumpsuit – Page 46 (Sport) Eres swimming costume and Arena diving mask – Page 52 (Women’s) Amin Kader dress and bag – Page 60 (Tech) Miu Miu jacket and shorts set.IMPRESSUM: Publisher-Founder Christian Llavall-Ubach – Publication Director Isa-belle Boudringhin, management@watchyourtime.com – Watch Consultant Eric Duma-tin – Editorial Director Christophe Roulet – Contributors James Gurney (UK), Timm Delfs (Switzerland), Paloma Recio (Spain), Paolo De Vecchi (Italy) – Translators Timm Delfs (German), Sandra Petch (English), Paolo De Vecchi (Italian), Gian Pozzy (French), Paloma Recio (Spanish) – Photographer Jocelyn Passeron (Yacht Photographer) – Photographic compositions by Fabrice Bouquet pages 38 to 40, assistant photogra-pher Cyrille Hardouin, production Julie Chanut-Bombard – Graphic design Graphic StudioFunk, Geneva – Photoengraving bombie, Geneva – Printed in the EU.JAEGER-LECOULTRE Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar. The epitome of elegance, the Master Ultra Thin is made for the modern aesthete. It reflects Jaeger-LeCoultre’s estab-lished mastery of ultra-thin movements together with its desire to combine virtuoso mecha-nisms with timeless beauty. The collection is refreshed in 2024 with a new interpretation that introduces a subtly modernised case and dial design, as well as a significantly increased power reserve.

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| WATCH YOUR TIME| 13FOCUSFOCUS21The new Type XX and Type 20 pilot’s watches, together with the Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge 5345, are testament to Breguet’s extraordinary crasmanship and mechanical mastery.Lionel a Marca, CEO of Breguet, is adamant: chrono-graphs owe their immense popularity to a sporting aes-thetic that appeals to any gender. Breguet is no stranger to the domain, not least because of its purpose-built pilot’s watches. Speaking recently, a Marca declared “the fact that pilots trusted their lives to these watches means something.”From an early era, Breguet was convinced watchmak-ing could contribute to advances in navigation, both at sea and in the air. Vice President and Head of Patrimony Emmanuel Breguet tells how in 1918 the company already supplied timepieces to American pilots and, in 1922, to the Société d’Aviation Louis Breguet, an aircra man-ufacturer founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet’s great-great-grandson. These instruments evolved into chron-ographs with counters and tachymeter scales, and could be screwed to the plane’s instrument panel or worn by the pilots themselves.Sky-boundIn the early 1950s, the French Ministry of Defence drew up technical speciﬁcations for a chronograph wrist-watch for issue to the country’s air force. Breguet was one of the companies in the running. Its prototype was approved by the Service Technique Aéronautique and an order was placed. “The year was 1954,” says Lionel a Marca, “and the legend of the Type XX, a pilot’s watch with ﬂyback chronograph, had begun. This is the model we revisited last year, aer four years of preparation, with the introduction of two new versions: the civilian Type XX and the military Type 20, in a dynamic, tech-nological and contemporary spirit.”An iconic watch warrants a new movement, as Breguet’s CEO goes on to explain: “We developed Calibre 728 for the civilian Type XX and Calibre 7281 for the military Type 20. The dierence lies with the number of counters. These are modern chronographs with a column wheel, vertical clutch and a patented activa-tion system. They also beneﬁt from the latest technical innovations in the ﬁeld of chronometry, with strategic regulating components made from silicon.” Both these models are proposed this year on a steel bracelet, while a version in rose gold with a ceramic bezel and blue dial adds depth to the collection.Mechanical artThis reinforced presence in the tool watch seg-ment should not detract from Breguet’s virtuosity in the rariﬁed world of grand complications. Possibly the ﬁnest demonstration of this expertise is the Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge 5345, a watch whose mechanical complexity is mirrored by its exceptional ﬁnishing, in particular the engraving of the bridges on the caseback side, which shows a bird’s eye view of the building at 39, Quai de l’Horloge in Paris, the location of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s workshop. This exquisitely executed decor highlights the unique construction of the movement, whose two tourbillons are connected by a dierential and positioned on a rotating plate. The purpose of a tourbillon is to vary the position of the bal-ance wheel and escapement and, by doing so, counter the eect of gravity on the movement’s isochronism and therefore accuracy; it would be hard to do better than this! This central plate completes one rotation every 12 hours. The hour hand serves as the upper bridge for one of the tourbillons; its extension, in a dierent colour, serves as the bridge for the second tourbillon.As one would expect, ﬁnishing is on a par with such masterful mechanics. The rotating main plate, in rose gold, is decorated with “ﬂinqué rayonnant” engine-turn-ing. The two barrel bridges are shaped like Breguet’s initial B. Roman numerals and the minute scale are laser engraved on the sapphire dial then highlighted with blue lacquer. “This is the quintessence of the watch-maker’s art,” enthuses Lionel a Marca. “The mech-anism was first revealed in 2006 and had already inspired several interpretations. With this year’s version, enhanced by the engraving on the back of the move-ment, which is treated with a black and white galvanic coating for even greater relief, we are again demon-strating the importance we accord to the métiers d’art at the Manufacture.” An unmistakable signature of a Breguet watch, indissociable from its mechanical art. ■ Eric Dumatin1.BREGUET Type XX Chronograph. The Type XX is a pilot’s watch equipped with a flyback chronograph, the emblematic function of this watch. The flyback function enables the user to reset the chronograph to zero by pressing the lower pusher. This simpli-fies operations by the pilot or crew members and offers the pos-sibility of recording several consecutive times.2.BREGUET Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge 5345. Presented in 2006, the Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 offers an original interpretation of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s invention. Two independent tourbillons are affixed to a central plate which rotates once every 12 hours. Both tourbillons have their own bar-rel and gear train, and make one rotation per minute. They are connected by a central differential which determines the average rate and, through a third gear train, has the entire mechanism rotate. The hour hand serves as the upper bridge for one tourbil-lon and its extension forms the bridge for the second tourbillon.High ﬂyerLIONEL A MARCA | CEO, BREGUET

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| WATCH YOUR TIME| 17EDITORIAL© RUBY GODDARD-WATTS – RGWPHOTOS.COMEarth, air, ﬁre, water. Of the four elements that brands can look to as inspiration for their watches, the ocean holds a unique place. Perhaps because of the spell it casts. Perhaps, too, because it took the eighteenth century’s ﬁnest minds to help conquer its vast expanses, thanks to measuring instruments that were suciently accurate to guide mar-iners safely to their destination. Whatever the answer, watches designed for a life aquatic are equally in a class of their own. Robust and built for adventure, legible and functional, reliable and resistant, since the mid-twen-tieth century they have stood out as the tool watch par excellence. The one we never want to be without, what-ever the circumstances.In this latest edition of Watch Your Time, we pay tribute to this very special category of watch. We wear them with pride, knowing they descend from an era of exploratory watchmaking, when the wristwatch was still a novel concept. Accordingly, one of the magazine’s long reads describes how the dive watch surfaced as a favourite piece of wristwear. In a similarly nautical vein, our photoreport was shot on board the Hallowe’en. First launched in 1926, this magniﬁcent cutter continues to ply the waves and successfully compete in classic regattas. And speaking of regattas, this is of course the year of the 37th America’s Cup, preceded by the Louis Vuitton Cup; a thrilling competition that has captured the interest of more than one watchmaker.It should come as no surprise, this “proximity” between masters of the seas and masters of time – or rather, between the designers of the AC75 hydrofoil monohulls vying for the Cup and the creators of watches engineered for the ocean’s deep. Both seek out cut-ting-edge materials and innovative technologies with the same single-minded objective: performance. Speed, precision, experience and dexterity: the qualities that lead a team to victory are the attributes of time meas-urement, too. There can be no dive watch without com-pliance with a set of strict speciﬁcations, aligned with ISO 6425 standard, and without the micromechanical capabilities required to produce an instrument that will endure extreme conditions without faltering.The skippers preparing to do battle for the America’s Cup are among the best and most experienced in the world. They wear dive watches they know possess the qualities it takes to stay in the race. Not forgetting these models’ well-honed design and… aordable price. Dive watches are generally no-frills with no additional com-plications, which makes them an attainable dream! ■Editorial by Christophe RouletBetween sea and skyEDITORIALRM 65-01Skeletonised automatic winding calibre60-hour power reserve (±10%)Baseplate and bridges in grade 5 titaniumSplit-seconds chronographFunction selector and rapid winding mechanismVariable-geometry rotorCase in blue Quartz TPT®A Racing Machine On The Wrist

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| WATCH YOUR TIME| 19FOCUSFOCUS21Hublot is busy on all fronts, with its fusion of materials, multiple and diverse part-nerships, cutting-edge R&D and of course watches, from the simplest to the most complex.Crowds gathered, smartphones alo, in front of the Hublot booth at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024 as Kylian Mbappé made his way towards the stand along-side Ricardo Guadalupe, Honorary Chairman of Hublot. Mbappé, one of the world’s top football players, posed for photos and shook hands with fans in what was a perfectly orchestrated appearance. Coming from Hublot, this is no surprise: the brand excels in occupying areas that engage audiences and football is one.Think about it: according to the Fédération Inter-nationale de Football Association (FIFA), a record-break-ing 1.5 billion people tuned in for the 2022 World Cup in Qatar. When Kylian Mbappé shot three goals into the Argentine nets for France, Hublot was pitch-side, count-ing the seconds in its role as the competition’s ocial timekeeper. Coincidence? Probably not. Hublot intends to always stay one step ahead and to be there where its customers are. Meaning everywhere.A multitude of projectsHublot knows better than most how to stand out from the crowd, including through a portfolio of partnerships in areas as diverse as athletics and gastronomy, cigars and skiing, tennis and the visual arts, music and rhino conservation. Beyond the revenue generated by lim-ited editions that tie in with its ambassadors, as Ricardo Guadalupe explains, Hublot capitalises on these part-nerships to develop innovative and unique watches and to introduce the brand to audiences in these various domains. “Over the years,” he says, “our collaborative approach has driven the creation of truly groundbreak-ing products.”The products – because there is more, much more, to Hublot than partnership deals. From the very begin-ning, the brand has forged a reputation for its innovative approach to materials. It was the ﬁrst to merge rubber with gold and has since blazed a trail in its use of ceramic and sapphire. In fact, Hublot is still the only watchmaker that can propose such a broad range of colours in both these materials and leads the ﬁeld in sapphire machin-ing technology. In its constant pursuit of innovation, Hublot’s R&D division thinks so far outside the box, the box is a mere speck on the horizon: a mindset it applies in sometimes unexpected ways. For example, as part of its investigations into the Antikythera Mechanism – the oldest known mechanical computer, recovered among wreckage in the Aegean Sea –, the division has worked with Geneva University to develop underwater robots to excavate the site. Ricardo Guadalupe cuts to the chase: “The R&D team work on multiple projects. Some come to fruition in which case our eorts are rewarded. Others don’t.”“Truly a classic”Eorts deployed over ﬁve years to produce the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System, unveiled during Watches and Wonders, are among the winning formu-las. Says Ricardo Guadalupe, “For a piece to be part of our MP collection, it must not only reinvent existing com-plications; it must create something exclusive, invent, build and open up new avenues in watchmaking R&D. I gave our designers and watchmakers carte blanche and this is the fruit of their labours. People will talk about the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium in terms of ‘before’ and ‘aer’.” For this latest release, Hublot revisits the fundamentals of watchmaking and replaces dial, hands and oscillating weight with a roller display, a circular power reserve and an inclined tourbil-lon that is automatically wound by two linear weights.At the opposite end of the spectrum, the brand is introducing the Big Bang Integrated Time Only. A time-only watch from a brand whose ethos is to always be ﬁrst, unique and dierent? Ricardo Guadalupe retorts: “For the last 40 years, Hublot has shown itself to be unique and dierent. And that’s what we do best. But does that mean that’s all we can do? Certainly not!”. Hublot is offering six variations of this time-only model in a new 38 mm diameter. “‘Classic’ is a word I never use for Hublot,” the chief executive continues, “but it’s true in this case: the Big Bang Integrated Time Only is truly a classic.” There is no stopping Hublot! ■ Eric Dumatin1. HUBLOT MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System. The MP-10 replaces hands with four constantly rotating displays: hours and minutes in the upper third of the dial, combined with an invis-ible magnifying glass; the circular power reserve in the central third, with a distinct green zone and red zone; and seconds in the lower third. They are shown directly on the suspended and inclined tourbillon cage, made from monobloc aluminium, for which a patent has been filed.2. HUBLOT Big Bang Integrated Time Only 38mm. The Big Bang Integrated Time Only has all the hallmarks of a Big Bang: the powerful case with its “ears” on either side, the bezel with its six H-shaped functional screws, the large skeleton hour and minute hands, the seconds hand finished with Hublot’s signature coun-terpoise, the even-numbered indices from 2 to 12 and the rub-ber on the crown. All contained in a case that goes from 40mm to 38mm in diameter.360º visionRICARDO GUADALUPE | HONORARY CHAIRMAN OF HUBLOT

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| WATCH YOUR TIME| 21FOCUSFOCUS21Building on research carried out for the RM UP-01 Ferrari, a watch 1.75mm thick, the RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal, weighing 11.5 grams without the strap, is the latest exploit from Richard Mille. It’s an unwritten rule at Richard Mille: every new watch must stretch the boundaries of possibility a lit-tle further each time. This uncompromising quest takes whatever road is necessary to reach its goal. Sometimes the going is tough but the brand can count on the com-pany of the 80-some partners who make up Richard Mille’s extended “family” – including many of today’s most accomplished athletes and artists. The brand’s phenomenal success – and remember, it has only been in existence for 23 years – is the product of cutting-edge mechanical instruments, built from groundbreaking, futuristic materials and with a razor-sharp design honed in consultation with its partners and “friends”. As the second generation takes the helm, with Cécile and Maxime succeeding their father Dominique Guenat, and Amanda and Alexandre taking over from Richard Mille, its future will be built on continuity.Lightweight“There is absolutely no reason why we should change direction,” declares brand director Alexandre Mille. “The brand’s ethos is underpinned by an extremely solid base and has no real competition. Why start making changes to such a strong and clear line? We have the utmost respect for everything our parents have achieved and are fully aware of the responsibility we carry with respect to the teams, the brand and our customers. We fully buy into this vision and are passionately determined to take it further still, lending our own touch but always in keeping with its DNA.” An eloquent illustration of Alexandre Mille’s words, the brand’s latest development, the RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal, speaks for itself, weighing in at just 11.5 grams without its strap. Yet another exploit as only Richard Mille knows how.Is it any surprise to see Rafael Nadal as the “face” of this new watch? The purpose of the RM 027 is that Nadal can wear it during matches, hence its weight – or lack of – has been a driving factor for teams who, from day one, have obsessively researched solutions. Lightness is the thread that runs through a collection that has no equivalent, inspiring technological breakthroughs which have marked the intense sixteen-year partnership, since 2008, between the tennis champion and the brand. “In 2010 the RM 027 Tourbillon was born as the answer to a challenge. It proved the prelude to an exciting adventure, the quest for remarkable lightness and superlative per-formance. With the RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal, this Richard Mille saga has reached a climactic conclusion.” Indeed, this featherlight watch withstands accelerations in excess of 14,000G and sets a dual record for a manual-winding tourbillon.Ultimate luxuryWhen developing the movement, Richard Mille’s engi-neers looked to another of the brand’s mindblowing productions, the RM UP-01; a watch whose thickness, if that is the word, is an unbelievable 1.75 millimetres. Such unheard-of measurements required a complete rethinking of the watch’s construction, in two dimen-sions, to arrive at a movement 1.18mm high, assembled inside a titanium case. This same ingenuity is evident in the RM 27-05 with ﬂying tourbillon and ﬂying barrel, with a skeletonised titanium baseplate and skeletonised bridges in titanium and Carbon TPT®. The entire manu-facturing process had to be revised, including for casing the manual-winding movement, which weighs a tiny 3.79 grams. It is mounted, with no need for screws, directly into the back of the monobloc case, ﬁrmly secured by the bezel and ﬂange. The crystal is PMMA polymer, an exceptionally transparent composite that is, unsurpris-ingly, lighter than sapphire.The case for the RM 27-05 is machined from a new material, Carbon TPT® B.4; the product of ﬁve years’ research and development in conjunction with North Thin Ply Technology (NTPT). This anisotropic compos-ite, whose strength-to-weight ratio varies according to how the ﬁlaments are oriented, is denser, stier and more resistant than regular Carbon TPT®. These quali-ties make it possible to machine thinner and therefore lighter components without loss of rigidity. Needless to say, successive prototypes for this RM 27-05 underwent extreme validation tests for jawdropping results. The watch withstands acceleration forces beyond 14,000G. That’s three times the piston of a Ferrari, another Richard Mille partner. Ultimate luxury for the ultimate watch? “For me, luxury is the possibility to experience some-thing it would be impossible to experience alone,” says Alexandre Mille. “This is precisely what we want to achieve with our watches, as vectors for emotion.” Ask Rafa. ■ Eric Dumatin1. RICHARD MILLE RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal. In the words of brand director Alexandre Mille, “The RM 27-05 is testament to a wonderful, longstanding friendship with Rafa. After all this time together, we fully intend to continue this exchange for years to come. And as we look ahead, we can be certain that the technology that went into the development of the RM 27-05 will benefit all our future watches.”2. RICHARD MILLE RM UP-01 Ferrari. Created in honour of the partnership between Richard Mille and Ferrari, at just 1.75mm thick, the RM UP-01 Ferrari constitutes a triumph of technical prowess. This ultra-thinness precluded a traditional stacked move-ment structure, hence Richard Mille has opted to spread compo-nents over a broader surface area by creating a perfect symbiosis between calibre and case. The resulting Calibre RMUP-01 with hours, minutes and function selector withstands accelerations of over 5,000G, is 1.18mm thick, weighs 2.82 grams and provides 45 hours of power reserve.Lighter by a MilleALEXANDRE MILLE | SALES DIRECTOR RICHARD MILLEREVERSOTHE WATCHMAKEROF WATCHMAKERSCALIBRE 860Jaeger-LeCoultre Boutique, 13 Old Bond Street, Mayfair, London W1S 4SX

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WATCH YOUR TIME |22 |FOCUSFOCUS21Magic is the inspiration for Cartier’s 2024 releases and indeed there is magic in the air each time the brand reimagines one of its classic designs, in this instance the Tortue.In 1912 the wristwatch was still a novel concept. Telling the time was the job of the pocket watch, safely residing in the pocket of a jacket or vest. For the more adventurous, who already conceived of an object to be worn on the wrist, choice was limited to a round watch… or a round watch. Louis Cartier (1875-1942), grandson of Louis-François Cartier, the company’s founder, decided otherwise. Louis had an eye for design and had already sensed the potential of this new way of wearing the time. Practical and functional on a pocket watch, time could become something truly magical when freed from the conventions that manufacturers imposed. Louis Cartier would be the one to take that leap, creating some of the era’s boldest designs, including the Tortue which debuted in 1912. In its own words, “Cartier has always distinguished itself through the creation of unique forms, beginning with the design and craing of silhouettes that ﬁt instantly recognisable shapes.”The brand perpetuates this “Cartier style” by play-ing on forms, which it reinvents to keep the magic alive. Cartier’s Senior Vice President and Chief Marketing Ocer Arnaud Carrez picks up the story: “This magic is the thread running through the watches unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024. It infuses its trans-formative power into the Maison’s great classics. We began this enriching of Cartier’s icons a number of years ago, convinced that the designs from a century ago are just as powerful today. They were born out of a creative spirit that gave each of them a distinctive yet timeless style. This is where Cartier’s strength of expression lies, in technique dedicated to aesthetics.”“Essential creations”For the eighth edition of the Cartier Privé collec-tion, which turns the spotlight on an iconic design in its repertoire, the brand has unveiled a contemporary interpretation of none other than the Tortue, one of its most emblematic watches, “born from a powerful cre-ative vision to forge a dialogue between curves and taut lines.” Cartier is also reinterpreting the Tortue mono-pusher chronograph that was introduced in 1928 and already revived some three decades ago. For this new version, the brand has developed the in-house 1928 MC movement which, at 4.3mm high, makes this the thin-nest Cartier chronograph to date. None of the signature features are forgotten: blued steel apple hands, central seconds hand with a cut-out counterweight, triangles at the four corners of the dial, a railroad minute track with Roman numerals and, of course, the secret signa-ture incorporated into the VII.Naturally, this is Cartier and so there is more to the 2024 releases than the one Cartier Privé collection. The brand demonstrates an astonishing breadth of creativ-ity with each of its appearances at the Geneva fair and this year was no dierent – beginning with the métiers d’art watches. Here, too, magic happens as the rarest talents are brought to bear on the brand’s artistic vision. Examples include a fascinating chimera, part zebra, part crocodile, which inspired a full pavé, perfectly organic creation. Or the new Reﬂection de Cartier which takes the architectural form of an open bracelet. The dial at one end of the bracelet is reﬂected in the mirrored sur-face opposite, to create the impression that time is run-ning in reverse. The legacy of aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont, a friend of Louis Cartier, soars over the new Santos collections. Two models in particular magically transform our perception of time: the Santos-Dumont Rewind, which changes the course of time, and the Santos de Cartier Dual Time which keeps track of the time in two dierent places at once.The ﬁnal word goes to Cartier President and CEO, Cyrille Vigneron: “Cartier watches emerge as essential creations: they are meant to be. Cartier reveals the won-ders of the world as much as it creates them. Cartier is a true magician.” ■ Eric Dumatin1. CARTIER Santos-Dumont Rewind. Changing the course of time is the technical and aesthetic goal for this Santos-Dumont Rewind watch. The subtle nuances of a carnelian red dial empha-sise the singularity of this limited edition in platinum. Roman numerals indicate the time in an order that runs counter to tra-dition. This original and inventive Limited Edition follows in the fantastical footsteps of aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, for whom nothing was impossible. So why not have the “apple” hands turn backwards rather than forwards, courtesy of calibre 230 MC, a mechanical movement with reversed manual winding.2. CARTIER Privé Tortue Monopusher Chronograph. This latest date with Cartier Privé is the chance to discover a complication that is making its first appearance in the collection: the mono-pusher chronograph and the 1928 MC Manufacture calibre. First seen on a Tortue watch in 1928, this complication was revived in 1998 as part of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris, introducing sophisticated details that return in this new interpretation: blued steel apple hands, a centre seconds hand with a hollowed coun-terweight and triangles at the four corners of the dial.The magician of timeARNAUD CARREZ | SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT & CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER CARTIERCBU2082-FT6275_Carrera_2024_XtremeSport_PatrickDempsey_280x380mm.indd 1CBU2082-FT6275_Carrera_2024_XtremeSport_PatrickDempsey_280x380mm.indd 1 08.07.24 16:4408.07.24 16:44

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WATCH YOUR TIME |24 |FOCUSFOCUSIn addition to an ongoing succession of world’s thinnest watches, Bvlgari pos-sesses unique expertise in the craing of chiming mechanisms, as demonstrated by the Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon.What is a tritone in music? This “blue note”, as it’s referred to in jazz circles, corresponds to an augmented fourth, an interval of three whole tones, hence the name. Still not ringing any bells? What if we said it is the sequence of chimes in Bvlgari’s Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon? For which the Italian brand has enlisted the help of a virtuoso: Lorenzo Viotti. This talented young music director, winner of numerous accolades, is chief conductor of the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra and the Dutch National Opera.“Lorenzo Viotti was already Bvlgari’s ambassador for fragrance,” comments Jean-Christophe Babin, Bvlgari’s CEO. “When we started work on the chimes for our new Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon, we immediately thought of him. Not just to represent the Octo collection but also to help us ﬁnd a new melody for the chimes. Striking watches are rooted in tradition and the past, and that includes the melodies played by their gongs. We wanted to break with that and to bring Bvlgari’s musical watches ﬁrmly into the twenty-ﬁrst century.”The sound of perfectionFabrizio Buonamassa, creative director for Bvlgari Watches, the engineering design studio and Lorenzo Viotti set about developing a new “Sinfonia della Meccanica” musical opus, working hand-in-hand over a period of two years, moving between Amsterdam, Geneva and Le Sentier, home to Bvlgari’s Manufacture and the studio where these musical marvels come into being. The Swiss-born conductor of Italian descent and the Italian brand, which has sunk its horological roots in Switzerland, were a perfect match. “As a conduc-tor, Lorenzo Viotti has the same expectations of excel-lence that we have in mechanical watchmaking,” says Jean-Christophe Babin. “We share the same philoso-phy of artistic inspiration served by perfectly mastered technique.”The Bvlgari Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie in Le Sentier, at the heart of Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux, is one of the very few with the capacity to build the most complex mechanical timepieces, beginning with chim-ing watches. A visit to the Grande Sonnerie studio is a reminder that the skill of the master watchmaker is only one part of the process; they must also possess a musician’s sensibility. Each watch is the work of a single individual who not only assembles and adjusts the parts, but also tunes the mechanism like a musical instrument. The most complex pieces, the likes of the Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Perpetual Calendar, can take several months to complete.An impossible watchPart of the same family, the new Octo Roma Tourbillon Carillon combines a tourbillon regulator with a strik-ing mechanism which plays, on three gongs, a melody craed by Lorenzo Viotti. Everything about this watch has been engineered to produce optimal sound, on the base of Caliber BVL428 – a manual-winding movement comprising 432 components and measuring 35mm in diameter and 8.35mm high. When constructing the movement, Bvlgari gave priority to the minute repeater, while the generous case proportions are designed for maximum sound propagation; strength and clarity of sound being foremost qualities of any striking watch. This enables increased torque from the three gongs, which are attached to the case middle for enhanced sound production.A harmonious concept, the perfectly mastered com-plexity of the mechanism, and attention to ﬁnish and detail are attributes shared by another masterpiece to come out of the Le Sentier workshops this year, and which has been widely commented on in horological cir-cles. That watch is the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC which, at a whisper-thin 1.70mm, sets a world record for the thinnest mechanical watch. Bvlgari takes watchmak-ing into the realms of the impossible. ■ Eric DumatinBVLGARI Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon. The Italian House presents a new interpretation of the Octo Roma Carillon Tour-billon. Designed to raise the level of sensory expression through sound, the timepiece features a three-hammer carillon com-bined with a tourbillon regulator: a skilful Italian interpretation of Swiss watchmaking expertise brought to life in a bold design.MechanicalsymphonyLORENZO VIOTTI, CONDUCTOR AND BVLGARI AMBASSADOR | JEAN-CHRISTOPHE BABIN, CEO, BVLGARI

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| WATCH YOUR TIME| 29© JOCELYN PASSERONCLASSICAUDEMARS PIGUET Code 11.59 Selfwinding 41mm. Audemars Piguet presents seven Code 11.59 models in 38mm and 41mm diameters, all cased in 18k rose gold. Designed to suit every wrist, they reprise the aesthetic evolution that was introduced last year and feature the sig-nature dial pattern. On this model, the play of light across this motif, and the contrast between the mesmerising green dial and the rose gold, reveal the full depth of the rich olive shade which continues on the flange and strap. Join-ing this hours-minutes-seconds-date model is a Selfwinding Chronograph in the same colour.CLASSICFine Swiss watchmaking has le an indelible mark on the long history of time measurement. At the pinnacle of this tradition is the classic time-only watch.“Any true creative artist is classical.”Eugène Ionesco (1909-1994)Simply beautifulBy Paolo De Vecchi, Watch Editor, La StampaComplications are thus named because of the complexity they intro-duce to the indications provided by a watch’s movement. Hour and minute hands are joined by others, although this does not include the seconds hand. Whether central or in a subsidiary counter, oen its pur-pose is to show that the watch is (or isn’t) running. The hands we are referring to here are associated with complications such as a chronograph, a calendar or a power reserve – a world perfectly mastered in pocket watches but far more complex when transposed to a wristwatch, which adds miniaturisation to the functional complexity of the mechanism.This mechanism becomes more complicated each time hands are added to indicate one of the many and varied functions a movement can measure. Paradoxically, the greater this accumulation of mechanical complications, the more attractive the “original” watch – one that indicates only hours and min-utes – becomes as the symbol of the utmost classicism.Let us not forget that Swiss watchmaking is rooted in centuries of unrivalled tradition, in terms of both crasmanship and technological innovation. The ori-gins of this industry go back to the eighteenth century, when artisans began to perfect the production of mechanical watches, ushering in a golden age that would revolutionise the very concept of timekeeping. Over the following cen-tury, Swiss watchmaking established its supremacy through the introduction of advanced production methods and its adherence to rigorous quality standards. Many of the iconic brands we celebrate today for their technical expertise and enduring design language were established during this period. Classic watches that display only hours and minutes hold a special place in the hearts and minds of enthusiasts the world over. Precisely because of this absence of additional complications, they are considered the essence of elegance and precision. →

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WATCH YOUR TIME |30 |152637 84CLASSICThree examplesThree models in particular illustrate the topic at hand. First, the Reverso by Jaeger-LeCoultre; an innovative design created in 1931 with sportsmen and soldiers in mind, thanks to a case that can be pivoted to protect the crystal and dial from potentially fatal ﬂying objects. As well as being a style icon, the Reverso is a milestone in the evolution of contemporary watchmaking. Next we have the Cartier Tank. Introduced in 1917, it too stands testament to horological elegance and creativity. Inspired by the shape of tanks deployed during World War I, its clean lines and original aesthetic have made it a symbol of status and sophistication. Thirdly, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual, launched in 1926 and renowned for its unprec-edented water-resistance and reliability. Equipped with Rolex’s patented Perpetual automatic winding system, it was immediately recognised as a masterpiece of engi-neering and chronometric precision that would posi-tion the brand at the forefront of Swiss watchmaking excellence.These three brands epitomise a vision nurtured by rigorous design, purity of style and proven technical expertise, brilliantly expressed in even their simplest models. All three have the good taste to perpetuate this tradition of classic watchmaking and to continue to produce models which are remarkable in every way – as demonstrated at the Watches and Wonders fair in Geneva, last April. Cartier and Rolex were outstanding in this respect, while Jaeger-LeCoultre chose to focus its eorts on its spectacular Duometre complication, although the iconic Reverso features in multiple itera-tions in its catalogue.The science of detailIntroduced in 1912, the Tortue is the product of a cre-ative inspiration to combine curves and taut lines. It returns this year in a version that stays true to the orig-inal design. Elongated lugs and a streamlined proﬁle lend this new Tortue a lighter, modern aesthetic while retaining its timeless elegance. Proposed in platinum or yellow gold, it features a highly legible dial swept by apple hands and framed by a railroad minute track. Keeping time is a manually-wound mechanical move-ment whose proportions have been adapted to the form of the case. The yellow gold and platinum versions are limited to 200 pieces each, while the platinum version set with diamonds is limited to just 50 pieces.For its Perpetual 1908 – named for the year Hans Wilsdorf, founder of the brand, registered the Rolex name – Rolex looked to one of its very ﬁrst automatic watches. Inaugurating a new collection in 2023, it marries a tra-ditional style with the brand’s distinctive expertise and aesthetic heritage. Sporting a classic yet resolutely con-temporary design, the 1908 is a certiﬁed chronometer whose in-house automatic movement incorporates a yellow gold oscillating weight with Côtes de Genève decoration on the bridges. Entirely developed and man-ufactured by Rolex, Calibre 7140 is protected by several patents and delivers exceptional performance in terms of precision, power reserve and reliability. →1. IWC Portugieser Automatic. IWC Schaffhausen introduces the Portugieser Automatic 42 and the Portugieser Automatic 40. Both feature a completely re-engineered case construction with a slender side profile that accentuates their particularly elegant and refined nature.2. BREGUET Classique Calendrier 7337. The flagship model in the Classique collection, this new iteration of the Calendrier 7337 embraces a modern look while retaining the definitive style ele-ments that have forged Breguet’s history. Proposed in white gold and rose gold, it joins the regular collection.3. ROLEX Perpetual 1908. Affirming its unique identity with ele-gance and finesse, the new Perpetual 1908 is a visual masterpiece. Light bounces off the raised pattern of the rice-grain dial, pro-ducing a variety of reflections with every movement of the wrist.4. CARTIER Santos-Dumont. The Santos-Dumont adds three new references to its repertoire. Three watches that pay tribute to the elegance inherited from Alberto Santos-Dumont. Coloured lac-quer illuminates their dial and accentuates the bezel and the case.5. CHANEL J12 Calibre 12.2 33mm. In black highly resistant ceramic and steel with diamond hour markers, the J12 stands the test of time. Its ceramic overcomes every obstacle: millions of abrasive grains of sand, thousands of shocks and dozens of hours under the sun’s UV rays.6. BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Yellow Gold Automatic. Yellow gold fuses with the Octo Finissimo to cast its timeless aesthetic in a new light. This precious metal not only reflects Bulgari’s his-toric mastery of goldsmithing; it evokes the fascinating lustre of vintage luxury watches.7. LOUIS VUITTON Tambour. Louis Vuitton presented the very first Tambour watch in 2002. Two decades later, the stream-lined Tambour is reinvented with a refined design that combines casual elegance and sculptural lines with exceptional finishing.8. CHOPARD Alpine Eagle XP TT. Alpine Eagle, Chopard’s col-lection of contemporary luxury sports watches, welcomes a new model. The openworked mainplate and bridges offer a clear view of the L.U.C 96.17-S movement, a mere 3.3mm high.

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WATCH YOUR TIME |32 |4152637CLASSICThe 1908’s reﬁned case measures 39mm in diameter and 9.5mm high, and is water-resistant to 50 metres. A rarity for the “brand with the coronet”, it is ﬁtted with an anti-reﬂective sapphire back to show o the move-ment. Equally distinctive, the dial, which is guilloched with a rice-grain pattern, takes on an ice blue colour for the platinum versions released this year.Aesthetic purityAny consideration of classical designs combined with state-of-the-art mechanisms must include IWC. The Schahausen brand arrived at Watches and Wonders with new Automatic versions of its Portugieser in 40mm and 42mm diameters. The Portugieser traces its origins to the late 1930s, when IWC used a high-precision pocket watch movement to make a large wristwatch with chro-nometer accuracy. The simplicity of its shape and the legibility of its dial may go back almost a century; the Portugieser has retained its freshness to this day.All the models beneﬁt from a re-engineered case con-struction whose slender side proﬁle makes them visually light and particularly reﬁned. Box-glass sapphire crystals on both the front and back of the case are a chance to admire the ﬁnishing on the IWC-manufactured move-ment and the dial. The latter is the result of an elaborate and complex process. Before colour is applied, the brass plate is treated with a sunburst ﬁnish. The pronounced optical depth is achieved through the application of ﬁf-teen layers of lacquer which is polished to a high-gloss ﬁnish. Subdials are milled into the brass plate and the lacquer. To ﬁnish, the appliques are individually hand-mounted. The result is a perfect balance of lightness, elegance and legibility.In addition to their technical merits, these classic Swiss watches contain a rich cultural heritage. To wear one is to carry a piece of this heritage on the wrist, with a style that transcends time and place. Fine Swiss watch-making has le an indelible mark on the long history of time measurement, thanks to its unwavering com-mitment to the highest degree of crasmanship and precision. At the pinnacle of this tradition is the classic time-only watch. ■1. RADO Anatom. Rado’s Anatom gets its first textured rubber strap for a sportier feel, paired with a high-tech ceramic case that feels deliciously smooth to the touch.2. HERMES Cape Cod Chaîne d’Ancre. The Cape Cod Chaîne d’Ancre watch moves effortlessly from one style to the next. The iconic “anchor chains” entwine on glycine or blue stamped lac-quer dials.3. LONGINES Master Collection GMT. The Longines Master Collection is a consummate blend of Longine’s watchmaking expertise and classic elegance. Two exclusive GMT models join this iconic line, in 18k yellow gold or 18k rose gold.4. MONTBLANC 1858 Automatic Date 0 Oxygen Green. While most icebergs are blue or white, some “jade bergs” are tinted emerald green – a phenomenon that inspired a Montblanc 1858 0 Oxygen capsule collection, which includes this Automatic Date model.5. PANERAI Submersible Luna Rossa. This Submersible Luna Rossa reference PAM01579 is the latest model to celebrate the brand’s continued role as official partner to the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team, a competitor in the 2024 America’s Cup. Inspired by performance, competitive spirit and technical innovation, it comes in the colours of the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team.6. GRAND SEIKO Elegance Collection SBGW295. Grand Seiko presents a re-creation, in titanium, of the first Grand Seiko watch. The urushi lacquer dial with twelve maki-e indexes will maintain its shine over many years, ensuring that its characteristic Japa-nese beauty can be appreciated by generations to come.7. H. MOSER & CIE Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green. Released in 2020, the Streamliner Centre Seconds won plaudits far and wide, quickly becoming an iconic piece. After pausing orders, H. Moser & Cie. used this break to further develop the watch’s aesthetic and technical features, which now include the transparent lacquer logo and new automatic HMC 201 calibre.

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| WATCH YOUR TIME| 33FOCUSFOCUS21TAG Heuer wants more. More innovation, more avant-garde spirit, more energy and more… tradition. Proof, in the metal, are the latest releases in the Carrera and Monaco collections.Julien Tornare, CEO of TAG Heuer until 1 September this year, is a man on a mission. His objective is to con-tinue to drive forward a brand that has already proved itself to be one of the most dynamic there is. “Last year we celebrated the Carrera’s 60th anniversary and we’ll be continuing in the same vein,” he declared at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024. “Over the coming months I can promise you even more of our signature avant-garde spirit. TAG Heuer is basically 160 years of inno-vation. It’s the brand’s vocation to constantly push the limits of the watchmaking expertise that forged its his-toric foundation.” Suce to see the promotional ﬁlms, starring Ryan Gosling, to understand that TAG Heuer intends to stay in the fast lane.Master of chronographsIt’s no surprise, then, to see that the Carrera is still very much in the spotlight this year. This is, aer all, the watch that conﬁrms TAG Heuer’s expertise as a maker of chronographs dating back more than a century, includ-ing as ocial timekeeper at Olympic Games in the 1920s and 1930s, and as a ﬁxture on motor-racing circuits since the 1960s. Earlier this year, the brand unveiled two new Carrera Chronographs in the Glassbox format which it introduced last year. Both feature an original green dial. Proving that the brand is no stranger to watchmaking tradition, one is equipped with a tourbillon regulator – a complication synonymous with superlative watchmak-ing since its invention in the early nineteenth century.A late 1960s model, reference 7753 SN, provided inspi-ration for the Carrera Chronograph with a bicompax “panda” dial and a steel bracelet that made its debut in Geneva. The historic model was a ﬁrm favourite among the racing driver community and is also the model Matt Damon wears in Ford v Ferrari, in which he plays the leg-endary automotive designer and builder, Carroll Shelby. Housed in a 39mm case, the new-generation Heuer 02 chronograph movement incorporates bidirectional wind-ing courtesy of a new shield-shaped rotor that delivers an impressive 80 hours of power reserve.Avant-garde spiritThis melding of vintage values and the avant-garde is inherent to the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph, the result of two years of development and a partner-ship with Vaucher Manufacture for the movement. The standout release for 2024, it channels TAG Heuer’s sports vibe with a case in titanium, a lightweight metal for a watch that barely tips the scales at 85 grams, brace-let included. “By reviewing its architecture and using light materials such as grade 5 titanium, the timepiece achieves a singular appearance where sapphire crys-tal and transparency play a central role,” notes George Ciz, Tag Heuer Marketing Director. This Monaco, which broke convention when it ﬁrst launched in 1969, is a perfect ﬁt for TAG Heuer’s avant-garde register, with its visible movement.Indeed, the innovation TAG Heuer has packed into this watch really comes to the fore in this split-sec-onds chronograph calibre. Watchmakers consider the split-seconds chrono to be the most sophisticated mech-anism for measuring short elapsed times. Equipped with two chronograph hands, one of which can be stopped to calculate an intermediate time then restarted to instantly catch up with the other, it is a particularly delicate mech-anism both to build and to adjust. Carole Forestier-Kasapi is Movements Director at TAG Heuer. She describes the making of this new Monaco and the TH81-00 mechanical movement, which is craed entirely from titanium, as “a deep dive into watchmaking innovation. Every single component of this watch illustrates our passion for artis-tic horological savoir-faire.” The movement runs at 5 Hz for tenth-of-a-second accuracy and stores 65 hours of power reserve. TAG Heuer has released the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph in two colourways: a dynamic and sporty red version, inspired by motor racing, and a classic blue version in honour of the original Monaco. Performance, ergonomics, legibility and an avant-garde spirit. All TAG Heuer in a single watch! ■ Eric Dumatin1. TAG HEUER Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph. Celebrating 55 years of the iconic Monaco collection, the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph continues to reinvent watch design. By reviewing its architecture and using light materials, the time-piece weighs a mere 85 grams and achieves a singular appear-ance where sapphire crystal and transparency play a central role. The case of this impressive timepiece is equal parts titanium and sapphire crystal.2. TAG HEUER Carrera Chrongraph Panda. This Carrera Chronograph delivers a contemporary take on the historic 7753 SN chronograph from 1963. It embodies the legibility that under-pins this collection, with black azuré subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock contrasting with the brushed steel dial to create the signature bi-compax Panda style. This emphasis on legibility is made even stronger by the Glassbox design.Pole positionGEORGE CIZ | MARKETING DIRECTOR, TAG HEUER

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WATCH YOUR TIME |34 |FOCUSWATCH YOUR TIME |34 |FOCUSFOCUS21Pursuit of precision is ingrained into Jaeger-LeCoultre and has been ever since the company was founded in 1833. The Duometre concept is dazzling proof.Visitors to Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024 were treated to an immersive experience at the Jaeger-LeCoultre booth, which looked to the forges of Vallée de Joux, home of Jaeger-LeCoultre, where blacksmiths worked metal during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. A sound and light show, projected onto giant screens, told the story of a brand that is now one of the most highly regarded watchmakers in the world and whose success is written in letters of gold in local history. A symbol of these forges, sparks and ﬂames rose out of a ﬁre pit at the centre of the booth. Speaking before an attentive audience inside the fair’s auditorium, Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO until September 1, 2024, Catherine Rénier expanded on a theme close to the brand’s heart, the pursuit of precision: “In 2024 Jaeger-LeCoultre cele-brates its unrelenting pursuit of precision. Precision has been an integral part of the house’s philosophy from the time it was founded in 1833 by Antoine LeCoultre. First an inventor, then a self-taught watchmaker, precision was something of an obsession for Antoine LeCoultre and continues to inspire the Manufacture’s engineers, crasmen and craswomen today.”At Jaeger-LeCoultre, this precision depends not only on the rigorous conception and architecture of its move-ments; it is also shaped by production technologies and by the painstaking attention to detail of the watchmakers and artisans who decorate the components and assem-ble them into the ﬁnished watches. To illustrate this, the brand chose four key aspects of its development, begin-ning with the work of Antoine LeCoultre, an inventor of machines that would serve his quest for precision. One of these inventions, the Millionometre, in 1844, was the ﬁrst instrument that could measure components to an unprecedented one thousandth of a millimetre. From precision components, the saga continues with preci-sion chronometry – from the nineteenth century, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watches were certiﬁed as chronometers for their high level of timekeeping accuracy -, then the pre-cision of the movement’s regulating organs and, ulti-mately, the precision of complications and the answer to the question: how to provide complications with the bursts of power they need and still maintain the steady supply of energy required for precise timekeeping?A patented conceptJaeger-LeCoultre’s response would be the Duometre, which it debuted in the form of a chronograph. Catherine Rénier described this compelling concept to her audience: “Patented by the Manufacture and introduced in 2007, the Duometre has two barrels, each connected to a sep-arate and independent gear train, housed inside a single movement and linked to a single regulating organ. One gear train is dedicated to the timekeeping function while the other powers the additional functions. Thanks to these separate power supplies, the Duometre guarantees exceptionally precise indications. This concept would pave the way for ever greater horological complexity.”True to its word, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled three Duometre models at Watches and Wonders, including the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual, ﬁtted with the new Calibre 388. The titular heliotourbillon rotates on three axes to create an eect similar to a spinning top. Oscillating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour), Calibre 388 also incorporates a perpetual calendar with moon phases and a large date display. A notewor-thy and patented feature of the calendar is the last digit of the year display, which appears in red for leap years.Marking the launch of these three Duometre models, the brand has imagined an entirely new case for the col-lection; a contemporary interpretation of its “savonette” or hunter pocket watches from the nineteenth century. Housed in this new design, the Duometre Quantième Lunaire is the ﬁrst Duometre in steel. A distinctive ele-ment is the “foudroyante” seconds hand that whirls continuously in a subdial at 6 o’clock, providing visual evidence of the movement’s precision, as the brand explains: “Making a complete revolution in one sec-ond, compared with a ‘standard’ seconds hand which rotates in 60 seconds, with six ‘jumps’ per rotation, the foudroyante hand makes it possible to observe intervals of precisely one-sixth of a second.”At the end of her keynote, Catherine Rénier handed over to Chef Himanshu Saini. One of the brand’s Made of Makers community of artists and artisans from dis-ciplines outside watchmaking, who share similar val-ues and visions of creativity, this “ingredient scientist” gave a live demonstration of specially created culinary “bites”… each orchestrated with absolute precision. ■ Eric Dumatin1. JAEGER-LECOULTRE Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Duometre technology uses two separate gear trains; one for timekeeping indications and one for complica-tions. The Calibre 388 movement in the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual watch incorporates an unusual tourbillon which rotates on three axes to produce a “spinning top” effect. This new cali-bre operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour) for enhanced chronometric precision. It also incorporates a perpet-ual calendar with a large date display.2. JAEGER-LECOULTRE Duometre Quantième Lunaire. A dis-tinctive element of the Duometre Quantième Lunaire dial is the foudroyante seconds hand, which continuously sweeps a sub-dial at 6 o’clock to visually emphasise the movement’s precision. Making a complete revolution in one second – versus a “stand-ard” seconds hand which rotates in 60 seconds – with six “jumps” per rotation, the foudroyante hand displays intervals of precisely one-sixth of a second.Master of precisionBIG BANG MP-11 Blue sapphire case. In-house manual-winding power reserve movement with 7 series-coupled barrels and a 14-day power reserve. Limited to 50 pieces.Hublot_WatchYourTime_MP11WaterBlue_280x380.indd 1Hublot_WatchYourTime_MP11WaterBlue_280x380.indd 1Hublot_WatchYourTime_MP11WaterBlue_280x380.indd 1Hublot_WatchYourTime_MP11WaterBlue_280x380.indd 105.07.24 08:2805.07.24 08:28

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38 |WATCH YOUR TIME |1342Time ripples1. AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Offshore 42mm. The new 42mm Royal Oak Offshore contrasts an 18k rose gold case with a rubber bezel, Grande Tapisserie dial and interchangeable rubber strap, all three in black, for a stylish and sporty look.2. RICHARD MILLE RM 35-03 Automatic Winding Rafael Nadal Carbon TPT. This watch, the fourth in the RM 035 collection, debuts an innovative but-terfly rotor. The RM 35-02 already integrated a var-iable-geometry rotor; this patented invention now gives the wearer the possibility to vary the rotor’s geometry themselves and therefore control the move-ment’s automatic winding to suit their lifestyle and level of activity.3. ROLEX Deepsea 18k yellow gold. Presented for the ﬁrst time in 18k yellow gold, this Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea is engineered to shine into the ocean depths. The compression ring, in blue Cerachrom ceramic, is graduated up to 60 minutes and paired with a blue lacquered dial.4. BVLGARI Octo Roma Steel DLC Chronograph. A 42mm size gives the bi-compax layout of this Octo Roma chronograph space to stand out. The Start/Stop and Reset pushers are carefully integrated into the case, extending directly from the lugs, in keeping with the Octo Roma’s contemporary design.As the pace of life intensiﬁes, the contemporary sense of time urgency has given rise to watches which have a measuring tool’s endurance, precision and robustness in a design that is sleek, stylish and oen downright elegant. Perfectly suited to every situation and occasion, these sport-chic models put their seal of approval on each passing minute. Watch Your Time imagines them in an aquatic mood, the theme of this 2024 edition.GALLERYGALERRY

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| WATCH YOUR TIME| 3913452By Fabrice BouquetPhotographer’s assistant Cyrille HardouinDirector Julie Chanut-Bombard1. CHANEL Monsieur Edition Superleggera Intense Black. Introduced in 2016, the Monsieur de Chanel collection is recognisable by the layout of its retro-grade minutes, small seconds and jumping hours indications. Originally in precious metal, it returns this year in a Superleggera version, inspired by the super-sleek elegance of racing cars.2. JAEGER-LECOULTRE Polaris Perpetual Calendar. Joining the Polaris collection, this perpetual calen-dar is cased in rose gold, with a rotating inner bezel framing a subtly shaded green lacquered dial. In addi-tion to the perpetual calendar indications, the new Calibre 868AA movement shows moon phases in both hemispheres. Power reserve is 70 hours.3. HERMÈS H08 titanium. Embedded in the brand’s masculine universe, the Hermès H08 returns in a gorgeous blue iteration. The H08 is like no other watch, defined by geometric lines and a circular dial, a unique dial font and a 39mm case with sof-tened edges.4. CARTIER Pasha Chronograph. Cartier reinforces the Pasha’s powerful design. This new chronograph makes a statement with the addition of a graduated rotating bezel and two pushers. True to the legacy version, they are set with a cabochon.5. MONTBLANC 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Carbo2. This watch boasts a revolutionary case material, cre-ated by capturing CO2 emissions from biogas produc-tion and recycled materials then transforming them into a powder. This powder is fused with ultra-light, strong carbon fibre to produce CARBO2– the ground-breaking composite used in the watch’s middle case.GALLERY

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40 |WATCH YOUR TIME |13421. BREGUET Marine Tourbillon. The tourbillon, that most emblematic invention by the founder of Breguet, shines inside a new model in the Marine collection. The 42.5mm case contains the Calibre 581 automatic movement. Assembled from 330 compo-nents, it owes its extra-slim 3-millimetre height to a peripheral rotor.2. TAG HEUER Skipper. The Skipper marks TAG Heuer’s return to the yachting world and is based on the “glassbox” design launched in early 2023 to mark the 60th anniversary of the Carrera chronograph. The movement is the in-house Heuer 02 in a version that has been specially adapted for regatta timing.3. LOUIS VUITTON Tambour. The Tambour reap-pears in a new expression characterised by excep-tional finish, laidback elegance and sculptural, flowing lines. This reinvented Tambour brings two firsts for Louis Vuitton: an integrated bracelet and an exclusive automatic movement, developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.4. HUBLOT Big Bang Integrated Time Only 38mm. Hublot takes the wraps off the first Big Bang Integrated with a sub-40mm diameter and the first with a solid dial. A 38mm case and sunburst dial combine into a great-looking luxury sports watch, designed for every day and any gender.GALLERY

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| WATCH YOUR TIME| 41FOCUSFOCUS12At the Watches and Wonders Geneva fair in April, Chanel presented the Couture O’Clock capsule collection, created in hon-our of Gabrielle Chanel’s profession as a seamstress and inspired by the tools of her trade.A spool of thread, a thimble, a pair of scissors, safety pins and a measuring tape – all items that Coco Chanel, the woman unanimously acknowledged as the symbol of elegance à la française, would have used to trans-form her ideas into a beautifully cut and sewn reality. To brieﬂy list the trappings of her trade is one thing; to transpose them into horological form is a far more daunting task. Fortunately, Arnaud Chastaingt, direc-tor of Chanel’s Watch Creation Studio, isn’t one to shirk a challenge: “I decided to go back to Chanel’s origins as a couture house and Gabrielle Chanel’s original pro-fession as a seamstress. The Couture O’Clock capsule collection illustrates the convergence of two worlds, Haute Couture and Haute Horlogerie, separated by a sin-gle word. They have many things in common, from the silence that reigns in the ateliers to the notion of time: a material for some, an imperative for others.”An immersive experienceArnaud Chastaingt set out to capture the atmos-phere inside Coco Chanel’s workshop, situated on the ﬂoor above her private apartments on Rue Cambon in Paris. A place where seamstresses chalk, cut, pin, baste, stitch, hem and trim using the exact same tools as Mademoiselle herself. “They are the symbols of an inﬁnite stylistic heritage and a framework I had complete freedom to explore for the Couture O’Clock collection,” Arnaud Chastaingt continues. Demonstrating remarkable creativity, Chastaingt has reframed these motifs through each of the house’s horological muses, including the J12, the Boy·Friend, the Mademoiselle Privé Pique-Aiguilles, Mademoiselle Privé Bouton, the Première and Code Coco.Two themes invite us to step into Gabrielle Chanel’s spectator slingbacks: the dressmaker’s tools and the celebrated seamstress herself, represented in cartoon form or as an animated ﬁgure. The latter is at the heart of the J12 Couture Workshop Automaton Caliber 6: a hor-ological show brought to life by an automaton compli-cation. This highly technical watch is powered by the sixth movement to have been entirely developed and manufactured in-house by Chanel and is worn, for the ﬁrst time, on a matte black ceramic bracelet. Standing outside the door to her private workroom, surrounded by bolts of fabric, ribbons and spools of thread, scissors in hand, Gabrielle Chanel, dressed in her trademark suit and a bow-trimmed hat, sways side to side while next to her, a dress form draped with a partly ﬁnished jacket moves up and down.Into the futureNot quite so mechanically complex but equally evoc-ative, the Première Charms Couture watch borrows the chain strap of Chanel’s iconic bag and threads it with leather. Attached to this bracelet are six charms in black lacquer and yellow gold-plated steel, representing a safety pin, a dress form, a spool of thread, a thimble, the label sewn into each Chanel garment, Coco Chanel blow-ing a kiss and, framing the watch’s dial, the case of the Première watch. Every piece in the Couture O’Clock cap-sule collection is a triumph. The showstopper, however, is the Musical Clock Couture Workshop whose movement is by Reuge, a prestigious Swiss maker of automata and musical boxes since 1865. Forming a circle beneath a dia-mond chandelier, ﬁve mannequins rise, fall and rotate. Time is displayed by a diamond and pearl marker on a measuring-tape scale. Arnaud Chastaingt says the clock is “a miniature world” and that even a couture workshop cannot escape “the constant race against time.”The Couture O’Clock capsule collection wasn’t the only thing Chanel brought to Watches and Wonders Geneva. Other pieces included four colourful Pink Editions, several interpretations of the J12 including a J12 Tourbillon Diamant, a Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Intense Black Edition and The Time of the Lion sautoir secret watch and secret cu watch, craed in yellow gold, diamonds and onyx in collaboration with a sculptor specialising in animal ﬁgures. Does Arnaud Chastaingt foresee a day when he might run out of ideas? “Never!” he replies. “Creative block isn’t a worry. My only concern is not having enough time to explore the many worlds of Mademoiselle Chanel. It’s actually quite compelling to ﬁnd inspiration in her creations and take them into the future.” ■ Eric Dumatin1. CHANEL Première Charms Couture. The original Première watch returns surrounded by lucky charms, including a spool of thread, a thimble and Mademoiselle in yellow gold-plated and black lacquered steel, attached to a leather-threaded bracelet whose resemblance to the chain handle on the classic Chanel bag is anything but coincidental.2. CHANEL J12 Couture Workshop Automaton Caliber 6. Inspired by Gabrielle Chanel and her couture atelier on Rue Cam-bon in Paris, Chanel’s Watch Creation Studio has imagined this J12 Couture Workshop Automaton Caliber 6. Busy working on her latest creation, Mademoiselle Chanel, scissors in hand, springs to life while the dress form beside her bobs up and down. Framed with diamonds, this exceptional watch is fitted with Caliber 6, a new movement that was developed and assembled by Manu-facture Chanel in Switzerland. A mechanical feat, with a single press of a pusher, its 355 components bring to life the delightfully detailed scene with its five levels.Code coutureARNAUD CHASTAINGT | DIRECTOR OF THE WATCHMAKING CREATION STUDIO, CHANEL

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WATCH YOUR TIME |42 |FOCUSFOCUS1Introduced in 1955 for pilots, the Rolex GMT-Master quickly stood out as the timepiece every globetrotter should have. Through multiple variations, this ultimate tool watch has stayed true to its origins to become a reference, famous the world over.By Christophe RouletIf a watch’s popularity (or fame) could be measured by the number of nicknames it has, few, if any, would outclass the Rolex GMT-Master. Batman, Coke, Pepsi, Hulk, Green Lantern, Kermit, Root Beer and Fat Lady are just a few of the names enthusiasts have imagined for versions produced over the decades – not forgetting the cinematographic connections of the Clint Eastwood and the Pussy Galore (named for Honor Blackman’s character in the James Bond Goldﬁnger movie). The GMT-Master is widely considered to be one of the most iconic and important Rolex watches, although anyone hoping to buy one should arm themselves with patience: demand is o-the-scale and wait lists run into years.A shrinking worldRolex unveiled its Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master in 1955, in a rapidly changing world. Advances in commer-cial air travel meant that ﬂying long-haul between con-tinents was no longer a dream. Time and distances con-tracted. As a result, pilots needed an accurate instrument that could keep track of multiple time zones as they criss-crossed the globe. For Rolex, the situation was clear: they must have a Rolex on their wrist; a watch that would line up alongside its other professional tool watches. And so the GMT-Master was born. “With its dedicated 24-hour hand and graduated, rotatable two-colour (day/night) bezel, it enabled all those who constantly travelled in dierent time zones – airline pilots, ships’ captains, nav-igators, international businessmen and members of the armed forces – to know local and home time at a glance,” writes the brand. The letters “GMT” stand for Greenwich Mean Time, the international time standard until 1972 and an essential point of reference for travellers.Rolex’s move into aeronautical terrain was a smart one. It’s estimated that world air trac has doubled every ﬁeen years since 1945 and there is no indication that this will slow down. The International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) forecasts that the number of air pas-sengers will increase from 3.3 billion in 2014 to 6 billion in 2030. The mood in the early 1960s was that ﬂight was the future, to the point that the main US, Soviet and European airline manufacturers were already nurtur-ing a project for a supersonic plane. On the eve of this crucial decade in aeronautical history, Rolex signed a partnership with Pan American World Airways (better known as Pan Am). In 1959 the GMT-Master became the airline’s ocial watch. Pan Am pilots were issued with GMT-Master and appeared in Rolex advertisements, helping to make the model an emblem of the aeronau-tical world.The skies and beyondA partnership with what was then the most prominent American intercontinental airline would be a huge boost for the GMT-Master. Thanks to proven technical quali-ties combined with an immediately recognisable design, the GMT-Master would quickly expand into new terri-tories, while forging a reputation for excellence among modern-day adventurers. As Rolex observes, “certain GMT-Master watches worn by remarkable individuals have witnessed history in the making.” For example, in 1959, at the height of the Cold War, Captain C. N. Warren used his GMT-Master as a navigation aid for Pan Am’s ﬁrst non-stop New York to Moscow ﬂight, chartered as part of US Vice President Richard Nixon’s ocial visit to the Soviet Union. The GMT-Master was also on the Apollo 13 mission that le Earth on April 11, 1970 for what should have been the United States’ third moon landing and which had to abort half-way, 56 hours aer li-o, when a technical fault caused an explosion in an oxygen tank. Throughout the mission, command module pilot Jack Swigert wore his GMT-Master, like a good-luck charm.Two years later, for the ﬁnal chapter in the Apollo programme, a GMT-Master was present onboard the Saturn V rocket, worn by command module pilot Ronald Evans. From adventures in space to the X-15 hypersonic ﬂight programme, developed by NASA and the US Air Force between 1959 and 1968 to test pilots’ ability to withstand the eects of extreme velocity and subor-bital ﬂight. One pilot was particularly outstanding. On October 3, 1967, over the Mojave Desert in California and wearing his GMT-Master, William J. Knight reached max-imum speed of 7,274 km/h (4,520 mph/Mach 6.7), set-ting a record that still stands. A few years prior to this, in 1959, Rolex gave its support to a mission of a very dif-ferent kind, when eight men from a British Army regi-ment embarked on an expedition to travel thousands of miles across continents in o-road vehicles. Their one-year journey, Pegasus Overland, took them through 34 countries in Europe, Africa, Asia and Oceania. Rolex equipped all eight with a GMT-Master.Technical evolutionsThe GMT-Master has continued to beneﬁt from technical innovations since its launch almost 70 years ago but the spirit of the original model remains strong. Navigating time

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| WATCH YOUR TIME| 43| WATCH YOUR TIME| 432A ﬁrst evolution came in 1959 when the 24-hour grad-uated bezel insert in Plexiglas was replaced by more durable anodized aluminium. Also that year, a winding crown guard was added to the case middle. The next major change was at the heart of the watch, when in 1982 Rolex introduced the Calibre 3086 movement, enabling the hour hand to be set independently of the minute and 24-hour hands. Prior to that, both hour hands were adjusted simultaneously on two time scales (12 and 24 hours) and the second time zone was read o the bezel. Thanks to the 3086, local time was set simply by pull-ing the crown out one notch then moving the hand for-wards or backwards in one-hour increments, without stopping the watch. The time in the second time zone was no longer read o the bezel but instantly shown by the triangular tip of the 24-hour hand. This new model, the GMT-Master II, existed alongside the original GMT-Master until 2000.The next milestone for the GMT-Master II followed in 2005 with the introduction of the ﬁrst ceramic bezel insert on a Rolex watch. This high-tech ceramic, which took the name Cerachrom in 2008, is extremely hard, vir-tually impossible to scratch and its colour is unchanged by UV rays. Also, because of its chemical composition it is inert hence cannot corrode. Entirely black to begin with, this insert would later be produced in various two-tone combinations, “immortalising the iconic design of the original GMT-Master.” And there was more! 2013 saw the introduction of the ﬁrst two-colour monobloc Cerachrom insert: a triumph of engineering and applied research.“Never a problem!”This year Rolex is unveiling two new versions of the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II in Oystersteel. Both fea-ture a 24-hour graduated bezel insert in grey and black Cerachrom, with graduations that are coated with plati-num by physical vapour deposition (PVD) to make them clearly visible. The GMT-Master II inscription on the dial is in green; the same colour as the 24-hour hand with its distinctive triangle tip. One version is paired with an Oyster bracelet and the other with a Jubilee bracelet.The movement is calibre 3285, released in 2018 and incorporating numerous technological advances, start-ing with the patented Chronergy escapement which is designed for high energy eciency. Made from nick-el-phosphorus, and paired with a Parachrom balance spring with a Rolex overcoil, it is also insensitive to mag-netic ﬁelds and temperature variations. Paraﬂex shock absorbers on the oscillator increase the movement’s shock-resistance. Power reserve is 70 hours. Water-resistant to 100 metres, like all Rolex watches this is a certiﬁed Superlative Chronometer; a standard which, among other criteria, guarantees extreme precision of -2 to +2 seconds/day.Robust and functional, highly legible, with excel-lent water-resistance and two time zones: the Rolex GMT-Master has always been a watch for men of action, including acclaimed actors. When ﬁlming Apocalypse Now, Marlon Brando refused to take his GMT-Master o and instead removed the bezel to make it less recognis-able. Clint Eastwood wore his GMT-Master on and o screen. Not forgetting Tom Selleck, whose GMT-Master was as much a part of his character, Magnum P.I., as his moustache: “I’ve always loved that watch. It was per-fect for Magnum. It’s a watch that likes action. It’s been underwater, buried in sand, it’s taken I don’t know how many knocks and never a problem!” ■ Page 42Aeronautical engineer Colonel William J. Knight. On October 3, 1967 he piloted the X-15 rocket-powered aircraft to set a still unbroken speed record of 7,274 km/h (Mach 6.7). On the day, he wore his GMT-Master.The first GMT-Master II with a Cerachrom bezel insert, 2005. 1. ROLEX Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, 40 mm, Oystersteel.Page 43A Rolex advertisement celebrating Pan Am’s first non-stop New York to Moscow flight, during which Captain C. N. Warren wore a GMT-Master.2. ROLEX Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master, 1955.

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WATCH YOUR TIME |44 |FOCUSFOCUS21Master of materialsRado manufactures its ultra-resistant ceramic components at a facility in the Swiss Jura.Rado has chosen its path: neither complications nor precious metals but watches that are impossible to scratch and which, decades later, will look as new as on the day they were purchased. Launched in 1962, the DiaStar was the ﬁrst ever fully scratchproof watch; a feat made possible by a tungsten carbide case and sap-phire crystal. Since then, Rado has continued to develop innovative materials – high-tech ceramic is one – which have earned the brand its “Master of Materials” sobri-quet. Thanks to fundamental research within the group, Rado oers a palette of twenty-plus colours and even a ceramic with a metallic sheen. This is quite something, considering that only a few years ago, ceramic came in any colour you liked, as long as that was black or white. Boncourt, in the Swiss Jura district of Porrentruy, is where Rado transforms a mysterious powder into watch cases with an incomparable gleam. The facility belongs to Comadur, a specialist in extra-hard materials, and was built in 2021 next door to the ETA and Nivarox factories (all three belong to the Swatch Group stable).Comadur invited a small group to the facility to see how high-tech ceramic is produced. The initial “ingre-dient” is zirconium oxide powder, as ﬁnely grained as sugar, which is mixed with coloured pigments. These are not conventional pigments, which would burn when ﬁred at 1,450°C, but various other oxides, also in powder form, whose ﬁnal colour is revealed through a chemi-cal reaction at high temperature (in their raw state, they have no visible colour). A polymer binder is incorporated to obtain a thick paste, known as feedstock. This feed-stock is pushed through a nozzle to make spaghetti-like shapes, which are cut into pellets which are then pro-cessed in a dust-free environment.Fired over several daysThe pellets are injected into hard metal precision moulds, where they melt under pressure of around 1,000 bars. The mould is opened and a robotic arm removes the part which, at this stage, is clearly larger than it should be. This is because the ceramic still contains the binding agent, which is dissolved by soaking the components in alcohol, a process known as debinding. At this point, the unﬁnished parts are still porous and fragile, and must be handled with the utmost care.Next stop the furnace, where rows of components are stacked on refractive brick shelves and heated to 1,450°C over several days. During this sintering, any remaining binding agent vaporises and the pockets are ﬁlled by the other components as they bond together. The sin-tering process reduces the size of the parts by around 25% to achieve the required dimensions. The compo-nents now have the hardness and scratch-resistance for which Rado watches are known.Incomparable finishesOnce the temperature has cooled, the almost ﬁnished components are taken out of the furnace. Functional surfaces are machined using diamond tools to give them their precise dimensions. This takes longer than with metal parts, because of the hardness of the material. The next step is polishing, again a completely dier-ent process compared with metal: the components are placed in a vibrating vat ﬁlled with water and ceramic kernels. The churning motion polishes the parts over a number of days.Certain parts, such as the rotating bezel for the Captain Cook watch, are laser-engraved with numer-als and indexes which are hand-lacquered. Links are assembled into bracelets and pins inserted by machine, while folding clasps are mounted by hand. Once ﬁtted with their sapphire crystal and back, cases go through an initial water-resistance test. Every single compo-nent is carefully inspected then packaged, ready to be shipped to Longeau, near Biel/Bienne, for final assembly. ■ Timm DelfsThe Comadur factory in Boncourt, in the Swiss Jura. Comadur provides specialist expertise in crystal growth, pressing rare mate-rials and industrial production of high-precision “hard” micro-technology components with unusual size and form specifications.Rado high-tech ceramic. Rado takes advantage of high-tech ceramic’s ultra-lightness, resistance and excellent dimensional stability to develop innovations such as a monobloc construc-tion, where the main movement components are fixed directly to the case, with no need for a metallic frame that adds weight.1. RADO Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton. The Cap-tain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton’s case is in matte olive green high-tech ceramic, topped with a rose-gold-coloured rotat-ing bezel with a coordinating ceramic insert.2. RADO True Square Automatic. The True Square takes a new approach to Rado’s signature square shape. Rado was the first brand to make a watch with an injected monobloc high-tech ceramic square case.

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| WATCH YOUR TIME| 47© JOCELYN PASSERONSPORTTAG HEUER Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT. A hardworking and robust watch for the mod-ern-day explorer, ready to guide its wearer across oceans and time zones thanks to a GMT func-tion. Blue and black or green and black colour-ways echo the elements of sky, land and ocean. True to their legacy yet tailored for today’s divers, these models are crafted to be the ultimate com-panions for life’s endeavours, embodying com-fort and strength.By James GuerneySPORTVintage ﬂavoured swimmers that don’t bar the style – bulk-free to keep your oce style aﬂoat.“I’ll chase my luck to the bottom of the sea.”Julius Caesar (100 – 44 BCE)Light waterIf you go down to the deeps today, you’ll likely be wearing a dive com-puter that won’t merely keep the time but will measure the oxygen con-sumed with every kick and provide step by step ascent instructions. Wristwatches, if worn at all, are strictly for backup, which is just another way of saying that most contemporary dive watches are more about signalling style in the city than time under water, but it wasn’t always like that. If diving has moved beyond wristwatches, its impact on watch design and development is impossible to overstate. Diving boomed in the post-war years when the advent of the SCUBA (self-contained underwater breathing apparatus) demand valve pioneered by Jaques Cousteau created a new set of challenges for the indus-try which, led by Blancpain and Rolex, reacted with the introduction of tech-nologies and designs that are still the reference point 60 and more years later.There have, of course, been water-resistant watches ever since timekeepers went to sea – Harrison’s 1761 H4 took the form of a pocket watch which spent its voyage, when not being checked, carefully cocooned in a solid box. H4 and its successors were similarly cosseted: hardly surprising given that these could cost up to a third of the value of the ship. The price of chronometers fell rapidly as this critical technology to solving the longitude problem was (eventually) accepted and developed. By 1820 British Royal Navy ships were routinely car-rying them. As with any new technology, people quickly adapted their use with navigators using portable watches, calibrated against the ship’s main chronom-eter, to record observations on deck. These watches were more directly exposed to the elements, leading to a variety of methods for waterprooﬁng cases, and were equipped with more robust, if less precise, lever escapements; innovations that exactly preﬁgured the modern dive watch.Martial impulseThe First World War-fuelled advent of wristwatches led to another round of innovation. There’s evidence that the ﬁrst “waterproof” watch (the term water-re-sistant was only adopted in 1960) was made by an American ﬁrm, Depollier, but the ﬁrst truly practical method was developed for the, then upstart, Rolex company. Introduced in 1927 as the Oyster, it used a threaded case, bezel and crown stem that made the interior of the watch watertight but still allowed for the watch to be wound and set without too much trouble. Notably the crown is much smaller than on the Depollier watch and only slightly larger than was usual at the time. The Oyster rapidly became the template for others to follow, as did Rolex’s marketing approach which included taking front-page newspaper adverts every day for a month aer cross-Channel swimmer Mercedes Gleitz wore one.The Oyster system’s potential was picked up on by militaries as essential kit for specialist marine warfare units, leading to a number of more or less successful developments (Hamilton’s “Canteen” watches with their screw-on crown covers attached with a chain were a notable dead end). The one lasting development was by an instrument-maker for the Italian navy, Ocine Panerai. Tasked with supplying the “Decima Flottiglia MAS” commando unit with watches that would be robust, reliable and legible in any conditions, Ocine Panerai sourced mas-sive cushion cases from Cortebert, ﬁtted with movements supplied by Rolex, but the key innovation was the famous cut-out sandwich dial. This allowed for gen-erous use of radium paste to make the watches superbly legible in the dark. →

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WATCH YOUR TIME |48 |15263748SPORTThough the Second World War drove technology for-ward in any number of areas, it had relatively little direct impact on watchmaking, save in terms of forcing watch-makers to industrialise high-performance watches in response to government contracts. Surprisingly, the wartime invention that did revolutionise watchmaking was nothing obviously to do with watches. Various ways of breathing underwater were developed through the twentieth century but none were truly practical until Cousteau and Emile Gagnan developed what became the Aqua-Lung system in the early 1940s. It oered far greater reliability range and manoeuvrability than was previously possible.It takes twoPost-war, Cousteau’s system and the underwater documentaries he was able to make were watched by millions and inspired thousands to try the sport, quite apart from spreading the environmental interest that was his intention. One early adopter diver happened to be Jean-Jacques Fiechter, the CEO of Blancpain. A close shave with a dwindling air supply some 50 metres down made Fiechter realise he needed something more than a waterproof watch; he needed a dive timer that could safely account for both the length of the dive and the time needed to decompress safely. Fiechter came up with ﬁve key requirements for his new dive watch: supe-rior water-resistance, lockable bezel for timing the dive, excellent legibility, automatic winding and magnetic resistance, since diving oen involves being in proximity to powerful magnets. And so the Fiy Fathoms was born. Launched in 1953, it had a double-sealed crown to pro-tect the watch if the crown were pulled out under water; a rotating bezel to time the dive, with a locking mecha-nism so that the diver couldn’t inadvertently change the timer, and an improved seal for the screw-down case-back. Finally, there were self-winding movements with so iron cages to divert magnetic ﬁelds away from the escapement. Not forgetting the generous use of radium to make the watch readable in the deeps.Almost at the same time that Blancpain was working on the Fiy Fathoms, Cousteau himself was involved in the development of a new divers watch. René-Paul Jeanerret was another amateur diver, friend of Cousteau and a director at Rolex. With Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf’s blessing, work began on a watch for which Cousteau helped set out the speciﬁcations. The Submariner was launched in late 1953 aer a typi-cal Wilsdorf touch of strapping a Rolex watch to the exterior of Auguste Piccard’s bathyscaphe as it broke a depth record by descending below 3,000 metres. The Submariner was prominently announced as water-re-sistant to 100 metres, with a rotating bezel marked in ﬁve-minute increments and crowned with a luminous dot at 12 o’clock. Rolex pushed quick development of the Submariner and introduced enhancements to the movement, water-resistance and strength of the watch, as well as a slew of tweaks to the dial and bezel design.As diving technology progressed, a new challenge opened up for watchmakers. Saturation diving allows for extended periods at extreme depths below 200 metres. Helium (instead of narcosis-inducing nitrogen) thus replaced the normal air mix within the watch case. This isn’t a problem until the diver decompresses, when the helium becomes trapped inside the case at pressure, causing damage to seals and, on occasion, the glass to pop out. This was solved with the simple expedient of a pressure-release valve on the side of the case, a fea-ture introduced by both Rolex and Doxa in the 1960s. →1. BLANCPAIN Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa. For the Fifty Fath-oms’ 70th anniversary in 2023, Blancpain unveiled an unprece-dented model, engineered to meet the requirements of today’s longer and deeper tech dives. This Tech Gombessa is the first to measure dive times of up to three hours.2. PATEK PHILIPPE Aquanaut Travel Time Ref 5269R. Patek Philippe presents the Aquanaut Travel Time Reference 5269 in a non gem-set rose gold version featuring a highly refined col-our. Equipped with an exclusive quartz calibre, this travel watch is distinguished by its Travel Time display, with a practical and discreet crown-operated setting system.3. JAEGER-LECOULTRE Polaris Chronograph. The Polaris Chronograph returns with a signature lacquer dial in fumé grey or fumé blue. Both versions of this automatic watch are cased in steel with a 42mm diameter. Water-resistant to 100 metres, they are delivered with two interchangeable straps.4. RICHARD MILLE RM 032 Automatic Chronograph Les Voiles de Saint Barth. This high-mech RM 032 Les Voiles de Saint Barth is engineered to descend to 30 ATM (300 metres), as required by ISO 6425 standard for dive watches. It is distinguished by a two-tone combination of Caribbean blue and white Quartz TPT®.5. ZENITH Defy Extreme Diver. Zenith presents its Defy Extreme Diver with a high-frequency El Primero automatic 3620-SC cal-ibre with 60 hours of power reserve. Designed for professional divers, it is guaranteed water-resistant to a depth of 600 metres.6. LONGINES HydroConquest GMT. A green sunburst dial, black ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel, water-resistance to 30 bar (300 metres), screw-in crown and screw-down case back: just some of the features of this aquatic sports watch. Measuring 43mm wide, it is paired with a stainless steel bracelet.7. TISSOT Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80. Built for adventure and underwater exploration, this Seastar 1000 is the epitome of resilience and reliability. A 40mm case houses the Powermatic 80 automatic movement.8. CITIZEN Super Titanium Chronograph. Exclusive to Citizen, Super Titanium™ is treated with Duratect, the brand’s proprietary surface hardening technology. This model is equipped with the light-powered Eco-Drive B620 calibre. Cased in a 42.5mm diam-eter, it features a date window and is fitted with a scratch-re-sistant sapphire crystal.Zenith_HQ • Visual: U180 • Annonce: 25282 26Sep24 U180 (FR) • Language: French • Issue: 26/09/2024Doc size: 280 x 380 mm • Calitho #: 06-24-172743 • AOS #: ZEN_25282 • AD 20/06/2024DEFY SKYLINE CHRONOGRAPHZENITH-WATCHES.COMLE FUTUR DE L’HORLOGERIE SUISSE DEPUIS 1865

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WATCH YOUR TIME |50 |1 23 4SPORTEarly maturityIt could be said that, by the end of the 60s, the divers watch had reached maturity as the essential challenges had all been met. If you look at period diving watches from the likes of Longines, Omega or Seiko, there is little that separates them from the requirements of the current ISO 6425 standard for diving watches. These requirements include a timing function with protection against inadvertent han-dling, legibility, magnetic resistance, shock resistance and environmental resistance to sweat, as well as standards for the integrity of the strap attachments and thermal shock. Since that point, technological improvements have mostly been marginal in terms of purely dive-related functions, even if quite desirable in themselves. The most obvious arms race has been with brands producing ever more “macho” watches rated to ever more extreme levels of water-resistance. Omega, Rolex, Seiko and TAG Heuer all have watches rated to 1,000 metres or more.Slightly more usefully, the development, since 2000, by the likes of IWC of chronographs that could be used underwater and the incorporation of mechanical depth gauges by IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Panerai kept alive the idea of watches as serious diving tools in their own right, for a brief moment. Then there’s all the various precious metals devel-oped to resist tarnishing in saltwater by the likes of Rolex and Omega – super desirable though not exactly important, but maybe that’s the point.What diving gives watchmaking now is the excuse to dream. Technically no-one needs a Rolex Deepsea James Cameron (water-resistant to 3,600m), Seiko’s Prospex SLA041 (1,000m) or Omega’s gratuitously strange and vast Ploprof 1200m, but they give licence to dream in a way that a Suunto or a 100-metre water-resistant Apple Watch Ultra 2 simply do not. As the psalmist has it, “They mount up to the heaven, they go down again to the depths: their soul is melted because of trouble.” We all want some of that in our deskbound lives. ■1. HUBLOT Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic. Vibrant orange ceramic makes its appearance at the heart of the Big Bang Unico, the result of a unique alchemy and a flawless resist-ance to shocks and scratches.2. ULYSSE NARDIN Diver X Skeleton OPS. An avant-garde reimagining of a dive watch as a piece of haute horlogerie. Water-resistant to 200 metres, this 44mm watch is powered by the brand’s UN-372 skeletonised automatic movement, show-casing an oversized oscillator and an escapement in silicon.3. RADO Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic. The monobloc case of this Captain Cook watch is forged from scratch-re-sistant, hypoallergenic high-tech ceramic and contains the Rado calibre R734 whose balance spring is in anti-magnetic Nivachron™.4. ALPINA Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic. Alpine and maritime inspirations meet in this assertive design, con-tained in a 39 x 40.5mm steel case. All three variations of this automatic model are certified dive watches with a 300-metre water-resistance rating. Functions are hours, minutes, sec-onds and date.TUDOR Pelagos FXD. The launch of the Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition” models brings a series of firsts. The partnership, since 2022, between Tudor and Alinghi Red Bull Racing is Tudor’s first venture into competitive yacht racing. The combination of high-tech carbon composite, titanium and stainless steel is another first, as are the fixed strap bars.Fast and furiousThe America’s Cup is the greatest sailing challenge; the ultimate achievement for a crew and its skipper, as well as for the builders of these extreme cra – the yachting equivalent of a Formula 1 car – and their sponsors. One such sponsor is Tudor. Since 2022 the brand has ociated as Main Partner to Alinghi Red Bull Racing. This is no small undertaking: “to partic-ipate in the America’s Cup, the world’s most impor-tant sailing event and the longest-established inter-national sporting trophy, takes vision, innovation and audacity,” the brand declares. Taking place this year, the 37th America’s Cup got under way in August with the preliminary regatta in Barcelona, building up to the ﬁnal in October.True to form, Tudor is marking this exciting race with two specially developed watches, which it unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva. They echo the precision, endurance and spirit required to be a contender in the most competitive yacht race in history. The Pelagos FXD and the Pelagos FXD Chronograph blend carbon composite for the case and bezel insert with titanium for the bezel, crown and pushers, and 316L steel for the case back and movement container: the same materials used to construct the hull of the Alinghi Red Bull Racing AC75 hydrofoil. Both are powered by chronometer-certi-ﬁed movements.

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| WATCH YOUR TIME| 51FOCUSFOCUSFOCUS21IWC shines the spotlight on its Portugieser collection and demonstrates its extensive calendar expertise, with new renditions of its Perpetual Calendar and an extraor-dinary Eternal Calendar.IWC began its horological year in the distinguished company of particle physicist Brian Cox, who invited the audience at Watches and Wonders to consider some profound questions about time and the universe. Speaking with IWC’s CEO Chris Grainger-Herr, Professor Cox asked “what is time?”. As with many simple ques-tions, the answer is anything but obvious. “The short answer,” said Professor Cox, “is that we don’t know. In the seventeenth century, Sir Isaac Newton assumed there was something like a great clock in the sky and everybody’s time ticked at the same rate. In 1905 Albert Einstein showed us with his theory of relativity that this is not the case. Time runs at dierent speeds for dier-ent people in dierent places.” In which case, what pur-pose does a watch serve? Essentially, answered Cox, to measure the “distance” between events. And when it comes to measuring this “distance”, this year IWC has gone to unprecedented lengths.Exceptional dialsThe brand has renewed its Portugieser collection with original interpretations of the Automatic, the Chronograph, the Tourbillon and, most of all, a com-prehensive reworking of its calendar watches. This astro-horological introspection begins with a series of four completely re-engineered Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 and continues with a superlative Portugieser Eternal Calendar. IWC has given particular thought to the design of the Perpetual Calendar model, which beneﬁts from a slender and reﬁned case construction. This new model integrates the technical speciﬁcations of the 2003 Portugieser, the ﬁrst with a perpetual calendar. Thanks to a larger reduction gear, moon phases are displayed with remarkable accuracy and require correction by a single day every 577.5 years.Another feature of the IWC-manufactured 52616 movement that drives the four iterations of this Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 is the patented Double Moon™ display, which depicts the moon phase observed in the Northern and Southern hemispheres. These four Perpetual Calendars are cased in either white gold, with new Dune and Horizon Blue dial colours, or in Armor Gold® – a more wear-resistant alloy than tra-ditional red gold – with Silver Moon or Obsidian black dials. Other notable features include the box glass type sapphire crystals front and back, and the extraordinary visual depth of the dials which, the brand explains, is achieved through “the application of 15 layers of trans-parent lacquer, which is ﬁne-ground then polished to a high gloss ﬁnish.”OutstandingThe plat de résistance, however, is the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar. “As we launch a watch with a mechan-ical programme that reaches further into the future than ever, the collaboration with Brian Cox is a privilege for us,” said Franziska Gsell, Chief Marketing Ocer at IWC Schahausen. “Brian can express complex scientiﬁc facts in simple terms and inspire, engage and enter-tain audiences. He is pivotal in helping us demonstrate what a remarkable achievement the Portugieser Eternal Calendar represents.”Remarkable indeed, and in more ways than one. In addition to recognising the dierent lengths of the month over a four-year cycle, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar takes into account the Gregorian calendar’s complex leap-year exception rule, whereby only century years that are divisible by 400 are leap years. A newly engi-neered 400-years gear ensures that the calendar auto-matically skips three leap years over four centuries – an event which will occur for the ﬁrst time in 2100. Hence the Portugieser Eternal Calendar will calculate the leap year correctly until 3999 – it has not yet been ocially decided whether 4000 will be a leap year or not. Another of the watch’s outstanding characteristics is the extraor-dinary accuracy of its moonphase display. A newly engi-neered reduction gear with three intermediate wheels ensures that the Double Moon™ display will deviate from the moon’s orbit by one single day aer 45 million years. IWC places eternity within our grasp. ■ Christophe Roulet1. IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar. IWC Schaffhausen proposes a completely re-engineered Portugieser Perpetual Calendar in four versions. Two are in 18k white gold with Horizon Blue or Dune dials, while two are in 18k Armor Gold® with an Obsidian or a Silver Moon dial. These meticulously finished dials display extraordinary visual depth, achieved through the appli-cation of 15 layers of transparent lacquer, following which the dials are polished to a high gloss finish.2. IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar. IWC presents its first sec-ular perpetual calendar. In addition to recognising the different lengths of the months and adding a leap day every four years, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar also takes into account the Gregorian calendar’s complex leap-year exception rules. A newly engineered 400-years gear ensures that the calendar automati-cally skips three leap years over four centuries – an event which will occur for the first time in the year 2100. Another key fea-ture of this watch is the extremely precise moon phase display. Thanks to a newly developed reduction gear, the Double Moon™ phase display will deviate from the moon’s orbit by just one day after 45 million years.From now to eternity

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| WATCH YOUR TIME| 53© JOCELYN PASSERONWOMEN’SBVLGARI Tadao Ando Serpenti. Bvlgari’s iconic women’s watch celebrates the fleeting splendour of nature, a theme close to the Japanese archi-tect Tadao Ando. Dials in a marquetry of green aventurine, tiger’s eye, or white or pink moth-er-of-pearl express the changing hues of a for-est across the seasons. A first Serpenti model, for the summer solstice, captures a sun-dap-pled forest through the use of green aventu-rine, a semi-translucent stone whose light and dark hues suggest sunlight reaching through the trees. This stunning dial contrasts with a case and bracelet in yellow gold and steel.WOMEN’SBy Paloma Recio, Editor, R&EArt of time“The sea is a place of rigour and freedom.”Victor Hugo (1802-1885)From sea to sky, nature to fantasy, the decorative arts have found constant inspiration. Master artisans explore colours and techniques on dials that become precious backdrops for the ﬂow of time.Fine watchmaking oers the decorative arts fertile ground for fan-tasy and imagination to take hold. 2024 is the Year of the Dragon in the Chinese zodiac and these celestial and aquatic creatures have descended on watch dials, recreated by means of multiple compelling tech-niques. A number of brands have released limited-edition timepieces for the occasion. Jaeger-LeCoultre, for example, portrays an engraved and enamelled dragon on its Reverso Tribute. For the dial of its L.U.C XP Year of the Dragon, Chopard has chosen the Japanese technique of urushi lacquer, meticulously handcraed by Minori Koizumi. Hublot, meanwhile, has opted for the ancient Chinese art of paper cutting, with colourful paper shapes arranged in multi-di-mensional layers by the artist Chen Fenwan on the Spirit of Big Bang Dragon.In a tribute to this mythological creature, the Les Cabinotiers – Grisaille Haute Joaillerie Dragon watch features a dial in green grisaille enamel, a ﬁrst for Vacheron Constantin, that becomes a backdrop for the ﬁve-clawed imperial dragon. Dating from the sixteenth century, grisaille enamel is a rarely seen and challenging technique whose chiaroscuro motifs produce sumptuous eects of relief and depth. For Louis Vuitton’s stunning Dragon’s Cloud, which por-trays the dragon in its habitat, artist Fanny Queloz has used the rare technique of damascening, where copper, silver or, in this case, gold wires are inlaid in an engraved metal surface. The resulting multi-layered appearance echoes the organic textures found in nature. Alternating hand-polished and matte surfaces accentuate the detail on the body of the dragon as it rises from the clouds and takes ﬂight. Its scales are rendered in paillonné enamel, in which tiny ﬂakes of gold leaf, or paillons, are inserted between layers of translucent enamel. →

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WATCH YOUR TIME |54 |15263748WOMEN’SIn search of beautyIn the eternal quest for beauty, the amalgamation of the watchmaker’s expertise and the artisan’s prowess and imagination transforms a watch into a work of art. These highly skilled practitioners – enamellers, engrav-ers and others – are entrusted with the decoration of each piece that passes through their hands, using pains-taking artisanal techniques that only the most virtuoso among them master. The passage of time is secondary to the wonders of enamelling, miniature painting, engrav-ing, gem-setting, guillochage, marquetry, damascening, ﬁligree and more. These métiers d’art exert an irresisti-ble attraction and, beyond horological complexity, make each watch unique. Without question, enamelling reigns supreme among these decorative techniques. Its bril-liance and plasticity represent the triumph of colour over time. Whether grand feu, champlevé, cloisonné, plique-à-jour, grisaille or paillonné, to enamel a watch demands great artistic intuition and immense talent. Is it because of the patience and precision this cra requires that so many enamellers are women? Depending on the intri-cacy of the pattern, a dial can be ﬁred dozens of times at temperatures approaching 800° Celsius, with the con-stant risk that a few seconds too long in the kiln, a few degrees too many, and the work accomplished thus far will be irretrievably ruined.These métiers d’art engage a constant dialogue between science and the arts, ancestral methods and innovation. Crasmen and women conjure decorations which can take months, sometimes years of preparation, and require a skilful balance between artistic expres-sion and the demands of technique.An excellent illustration is Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lady Arpels Casse-Noisette; an exploration of some 70 col-ours, ﬁnishes and enamelling techniques. Together they give life to an exquisite timepiece whose multi-faceted dial presents complex renditions of volume and depth. Such a breadth of techniques oers inﬁnite possibili-ties to personalise each one. Given the appeal of these handcraed watches, it comes as no surprise to learn that most of the major brands have their own studios, dedicated exclusively to the embellishment of these rare and precious timepieces. →1. OMEGA Speedmaster 38mm. Omega extends its Speedmaster 38mm collection with models in gold and steel, glittering with 52 diamonds on the bezel plus a diamond set into the crown.2. PANERAI Luminor Due 38mm. Panerai excels in creating contemporary interpretations of its high precision instruments. The new Luminor Due 38 mm collection seamlessly blends style and functionality.3. IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34. Elegant down to the smallest detail, this is the first Portofino in a 34mm size to include a charming day/night complication. A sun and a moon on a rotat-ing disc at 6 o’clock indicate whether it is currently day or night.4. BREGUET Classique Tourbillon 3358. Crafted from white gold, this tourbillon watch invites us to delve into dreams of starry nights. A shower of diamonds glides across the midnight blue var-nished mother-of-pearl dial, while a flurry of sanded, polished or diamond-studded gold stars lend depth.5. HERMÈS Slim Le Sacre des Saisons. Taken from Hermès silk scarves, four fantastical animals, each representing a season, are brought to life on dials in a profusion of nuances and captivat-ing details that highlight a palette of artistic and artisanal skills.6. GRAND SEIKO Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry Watch. Remarkable as much for its bold design as for the diamonds and black spinels adorning it, this watch is a reminder of the strength and beauty of the white lion, Grand Seiko’s sym-bol since 1960.7. LOUIS VUITTON Tambour Vivienne Jumping Hours – Astro-naut. Louis Vuitton’s whimsical Vivienne mascot sets off on her latest wild adventures, this time journeying into space courtesy of a Tambour watch with jumping hours.8. CHANEL Boy·Friend Skeleton Pink Edition. Gabrielle Chanel would always include the colour pink in her collections. Now, Chanel’s Watch Creation Studio has imagined four exceptional designs around new editions of the J12 and Boy·Friend in varia-tions of this delicate shade.

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| WATCH YOUR TIME| 55FOCUSFOCUS2 31The Hermès Cut merges a clean-cut proﬁle with curved lines in a women’s mechan-ical watch that encapsulates the brand’s “do dierent” design ethos.Always there where least expected, Hermès is a past master in taking something as innately familiar as a geometric form and making it subtly yet undenia-bly something else. If, as the brand likes to remind us, “time is a friend”, this is very much a friendship that goes both ways. Since establishing La Montre Hermès in Switzerland in 1978, Hermès has risen to the top of the haute horlogerie ladder with its obeat and imag-inative, mechanically impressive timepieces. No other maker can rival the brand for its ability to transform colours, shapes and volumes into watches that leave no-one indierent. One of its latest masterstrokes, the Hermès H08 has established the brand solidly in the men’s luxury sports watch market, where it has carved out a place in an already well-served segment. With its taut lines and contrasting ﬁnishes, the H08 has enjoyed “frank success” since its launch in 2021, in the words of Hermès Horloger CEO, Laurent Dordet. Success that has certainly contributed to the excellent performance of Hermès’s watch business, which grew by an impres-sive 17.7% in 2023.This Hermès H08 is proof positive that there is always room for fresh ideas, even in the hotly disputed category of time-only watches which, despite an apparent sim-plicity, is probably the most dicult category in terms of dierentiation. In which case, why not replicate the suc-cess of this men’s watch in a women’s style? No sooner said than done: Hermès arrived at this year’s Watches and Wonders Geneva with a completely new collection, the Hermès Cut. A reﬂection on a simple form, it boldly merges a sharp-edged proﬁle with clean, so lines. The Cut shares the H08’s easy elegance and studied sim-plicity, which is unsurprising given that it too bears the hallmark of Philippe Delhotal, the Creative Director of Hermès Horloger.Expand your mindWith its round-in-a-circle aesthetic, the Hermès Cut plays with Hermès’s design language of geometric shapes. Razor-sharp lines forge a singular identity while the balanced proportions of the case, which mingles polished surfaces with satin brushing, together with the glint of metal on the case ﬂanks, underscore its charac-ter. The details that make all the dierence include the position of the crown, between 1 and 2 o’clock, signed with a lacquered or engraved letter H; the bevel-cut bezel which opens onto a generous dial with a curved edge, and the specially developed typography of the luminescent applied Arabic numerals. Keeping time is the Hermès in-house H1912 automatic calibre, revealed through the sapphire caseback.The Hermès Cut makes a strong statement in more ways than one, as Hermès has launched the watch not as a single iteration but in multiple versions, with the option of a steel case, with or without the embellishment of 56 diamonds on the bezel, and a bi-metal case in steel and gold, again with the choice of a plain or diamond-set bezel. Adding further versatility, Hermès presents the Cut on a metal bracelet, whose supple, rounded links take their lead from the polished and matte ﬁnish of the case, which it complements with a rubber strap in eight shades drawn from the Hermès palette. They are white, orange, gris perle, gris étain, glycine, vert criquet, bleu jean and capucine. An ingenious interchangeability sys-tem makes it easy to swap straps in and out to change styles on a daily basis.All is not what it seems. A watch is not for telling the time. A watch gives you the gi of time. Close your eyes and let your mind expand… the promise of the Hermès Cut. ■ Eric Dumatin1. + 2. HERMÈS Cut. Inspired by simplicity of form, the Hermès Cut merges a crisply drawn profile with curved lines. A free-flowing round shape creatively combines with the circle’s perfect geom-etry to form a pure, inspirational design. Metamorphosing mat-ter into an object that will transcend time, the Hermès Cut is the work of Philippe Delhotal, Creative Director at Hermès Horloger. It embodies the vibrancy of a feminine but also universal inspiration.3. HERMÈS Cut. The harmoniously integrated metallic bracelet comprises supple links with a rounded profile. Alternating fin-ishes echo those of the case. It is complemented by a rubber strap in eight shades borrowed from the Hermès palette. Thanks to an ingenious system, swapping straps is simplicity itself, making it easy to change styles on a daily basis.Irresistible appeal

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WATCH YOUR TIME |56 |1 23 4WOMEN’SCARL F. BUCHERER Heritage Chronometer Celebration. Showcasing an unadorned simplicity, this watch is inherently elegant and designed for life’s most precious moments, pro-viding the perfect finishing touch to stylish ensembles. Pro-posed in 18k rose gold with a brown or silver dial, and in stain-less steel with a black or silver dial, it was specially created to commemorate Carl F. Bucherer’s 135th anniversary in 2023.Stunningly simpleFor its 135th anniversary, celebrated in 2023, Carl F. Bucherer embraced the delicate exercise of reviv-ing a model from its archives, speciﬁcally a watch from the 1960s: a milestone decade for the brand, which was rapidly expanding internationally. The Sixties were a modern awakening and this new mood inspired Carl F. Bucherer’s watchmakers for a simple, almost utilitarian aesthetic. From the mesh brace-let to the angled facets of the hands and indexes, every aspect of the deliberately restrained design reﬂects this desire for pragmatism and purpose. All these qualities return in the Heritage Chronometer Celebration, driven by the chronometer-certiﬁed CFB 1965.1 automatic movement.But this is no mere carbon copy. “While rooted in retro-futurism, the Heritage Chronometer Celebration exudes a contemporary freshness. Its design is refreshingly clean, with the watch’s proﬁle and crystal harmoniously complementing each other. Departing from the yellow gold trend of the ‘60s, this collection embraces modern colours and materi-als, oering 18k rose gold or stainless steel cases and bracelets.” The case back bears an embossed Bucherer family crest from the 1960s, with a swan symbolising Carl F. Bucherer’s hometown of Lucerne, a beech tree representing the Bucherer family, and the founding date of the manufacturer in 1888.On the verge of extinctionThis hasn’t always been the case. The popular-ity of hand-decorated watches reached its peak in the nineteenth century then steadily waned over the course of the twentieth century, disappearing almost entirely at the turn of the millennium. With the increased industrialisation of production, hand-craed watches became a niche market and the ranks of talented crasmen grew thin, with young gener-ations more inclined to pursue other careers. Many of these skills were in danger of being lost for ever. Disaster loomed, then Patek Philippe stepped in. With a view to saving these endangered techniques, the Geneva ﬁrm began to commission artisans to deco-rate watches, knowing full well they would be dicult to sell. But aer all, better times were sure to come…And indeed they did. The early 2000s were marked by a clear revival of interest in these métiers d’art and the skills of the men and women who excel in these disciplines were increasingly in demand. Once threat-ened with extinction, techniques such as guillochage, engraving, enamelling, gem-setting and marquetry returned centre-stage. Alongside Patek Philippe, a handful of brands began to believe that, aer years of neglect, there could be a future for these professions. So much the better! Over the past two decades, a new generation of artisans has emerged, trained in-house by brands or on newly created courses at vocational colleges. They must continue to shape prestige watch-making’s artistic renewal, particularly as demand for these timepieces is commensurate with the treasures of inventiveness and imagination they represent. →1. CARTIER Crocodile Jewelry Watch. A sculpted crocodile keeps a close eye on passing time. Rich enamel tones on the case and dial echo the sapphires and diamonds of the animal’s precisely rendered contours.2. CHOPARD Imperiale. At the heart of the new Impériale, whose 36mm diamond-set case is crafted from ethical 18k white gold, resides the Chopard 96.17-C movement, bringing to life a dial in an intricate marquetry of mother-of-pearl and enamel.3. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Lady Arpels Brise d’Eté. Carried by a summer’s breeze, gold butterflies rendered in plique-à-jour enamel flutter around the dial of this Lady Arpels watch, to show the time. Adding to the enchantment, flowers and stems sway, brought to life by an on-demand module.4. JAEGER-LECOULTRE Reverso Enamel The Waterfall At Yoshino. Inspired by Eastern decorative arts, at end 2023 Jaeger-LeCoultre presented two Reverso Tribute watches, each decorated in Grand Feu enamel with a micro-painted reproduction of a work by Katsushika Hokusai, Japan’s most celebrated artist of the nineteenth century.

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| WATCH YOUR TIME| 57FOCUSFOCUS2 31Chopard has made certiﬁed precision a condition of its timepieces, which com-bine ﬁnely honed mechanisms with gen-tlemanly elegance.Speaking to an audience at the Watches and Wonders Geneva fair in April, Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele declared 2024 to be the year of quiet lux-ury. The type of watch a gentleman might choose. For Scheufele, this translates as discreet elegance, com-fort and lightness on the wrist, and a blend of sport and style. In other words, the watches he wears himself! An excellent illustration would be the Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green which the brand unveiled at the fair. This timepiece celebrates the three core values of the L.U.C collection, which are technical performance, aesthetic reﬁnement and a commitment to certiﬁed watchmak-ing. Not forgetting Chopard’s ongoing ‘journey to sus-tainable luxury’, illustrated here by the Lucent Steel™ used to forge the case. This proprietary alloy comprises more than 80% recycled steel and oers more advanced properties than existing steels.Independent and authenticOne of the reasons Chopard can set the bar high for technical advances is that Karl-Friedrich Scheufele understood early on the importance of production capabilities that would provide the family-owned ﬁrm with the independence it wanted and the authenticity expected of a haute horlogerie brand. With immense foresight, in 1996 he laid the foundations for Fleurier Manufacture, where the L.U.C collection could blossom and grow. He followed this ﬁrst industrial milestone with a second manufacturing arm, Fleurier Ebauches, specialising in higher volume production of in-house movements. Consequently, Chopard masters the entire manufacturing process of each watch in the L.U.C col-lection, from conceptualisation of the movement to the ﬁnal adjustment, and every stage in between including the smelting of metals in its own foundry, machining cases and components, and engraving and decorating mechanisms by hand.The L.U.C XPS Forest Green reﬂects this methodology. The movement inside the 40mm case in Lucent Steel™ is Calibre L.U.C 96.12L. This extra-thin calibre, just 3.3mm high, is ﬁtted with a 22k gold bidirectional micro-rotor to wind Chopard’s Twin Technology stacked barrels, accu-mulating 65 hours of power reserve. The ‘S’ in XPS refers to the small seconds indication at 6 o’clock, required by the Contrôle Ociel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) which uses small seconds to evaluate the precision of the movements it certiﬁes (daily rate must be accurate to within -4 and +6 seconds). In addition to its chronom-eter-certiﬁed credentials, this L.U.C boasts an attractive sector dial, with a hint of Art Deco and Bauhaus design, in a satin dark green achieved by physical vapour dep-osition (PVD).Solo ascentThe L.U.C Qualité Fleurier is another model of the kind close to Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s heart. Also cased in Lucent Steel™, this time with a 39mm diameter, it sees its historical design (the model debuted in 2005) revisited with resized lugs and crown, as well as an elegant and functional silver-toned monochrome sector-type dial. Complementing this reﬁned aesthetic are the exceptional mechanics of Calibre L.U.C 96.09-L, an evolved version of the ﬁrst Chopard Manufacture movement. It meets the uncompromising standards of the Qualité Fleurier label. Given the battery of tests that await the watches that measure themselves against the label’s ﬁve crite-ria – COSC certiﬁcation is just the beginning – it’s easy to understand why brands prefer not to take the risk… and why Chopard is alone in obtaining this symbol of excellence, a badge it wears with pride.Needless to say, the movement that equips the new Alpine Eagle XL Chrono with ﬂyback function – Calibre Chopard 03.05-C, protected by three patents – is also chronometer-certiﬁed. Housed inside a 44mm case in titanium or ethical rose gold, rated water-resistant to 100 metres, it underpins the model’s sporty and robust identity. In the brand’s own words, the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono “remains the ﬁnest ally of extreme sports enthu-siasts, from the most rugged peaks to the ocean depths.” The textured pattern on the Rhône Blue dial is modelled on an eagle’s iris while the grade 5 titanium of the case impresses as much for its lightness on the wrist as its superior resistance. For the gentleman whose favourite sport happens to be base jumping! ■ Christophe Roulet1. CHOPARD L.U.C XPS Forest Green. The L.U.C collection con-firms its three core values of technical performance, aesthetic refinement and a commitment to certified watchmaking. The sector-type dial of this L.U.C XPS Forest Green matches vintage charm with the excellence of contemporary watchmaking. As for the case in Lucent Steel™, made with a recycling rate of at least 80 per cent, its 40mm diameter will suit every wrist size. The “Chronometer” indication testifies that the L.U.C 96.12-L move-ment meets the stringent criteria for precision in tests conducted by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres.2. CHOPARD L.U.C Qualité Fleurier. With a 39mm diameter for a thickness of 8.92mm, the historic design of the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier has been revised, with a resized crown and lugs, as well as an elegant and functional silver-toned monochrome sector-type dial. This is the first watch in the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier family to be crafted in Lucent Steel™, The L.U.C 96.09-L movement with chronometer-certified precision benefits from Chopard Twin Technology.3. CHOPARD Alpine Eagle XL Chrono titanium. Chopard cases its Alpine Eagle flyback chronograph in ultra-lightweight, highly resistant grade 5 titanium. This 44mm model, distinguished by a “Rhône Blue” dial, is strongly inspired by the power of the eagle and the beauty of the Alps. The three patents for the Chopard 03.05-C chronometer-certified movement with flyback func-tion testify to innovations which enhance its accuracy as well as its smooth handling.Time, gentlemen

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WATCH YOUR TIME |58 |1 23 4WOMEN’SA matter of priorityPreservation of these arts remains of paramount importance for Patek Philippe. Each year the company demonstrates its mastery of the techniques tradition-ally used in haute horlogerie in its Rare Handcras collection of sumptuously decorated wristwatches, table clocks and pocket watches. More oen than not inspired by the brand’s rich heritage, they are pre-sented to the public at exhibitions, where engravers and enamellers demonstrate their skills. This year’s collection, which comprises 82 pieces, once again illustrates the brand’s complete mastery of ancestral disciplines, together with techniques more recently introduced to watchmaking, such as Longwy enamel on ceramic and wood micro-marquetry.This latter technique distinguishes two particu-larly remarkable creations in the 2024 collection, one a pocket watch and the other a wristwatch. The ﬁrst, a unique piece, is a depiction of an egret in a compo-sition of more than 400 tiny wood inlays spanning 18 species of wood with dierent colours, textures and veining. The ﬂinqué enamel gold dial is delicately hand-guilloched with a sunburst pattern that suggests the bird’s plumage then coated with translucent blue enamel. The wristwatch, a Calatrava in a limited edi-tion of ten, shows a surfer on a California beach. This evocative tableau, the sun hitting the surfer’s board as he walks towards the waves, is meticulously craed from 100 veneers and 75 inlays in 23 species of wood. There can be no doubting the essential role the méti-ers d’art play in transforming the ﬂow of time into an object for contemplation. ■1. ZENITH Skyline 36. A new size and new colours, but the same striking silhouette and stellar brilliance. The Defy Skyline now comes in a 36mm version that keeps the angular shape of the original while introducing more modest, unisex proportions for those who prefer a smaller fit.2. RICHARD MILLE RM 07-04 Automatic Sport Green. Richard Mille asked six women athletes to share their experi-ences, to help define its first women’s sports watch. The result, the RM 07-04, was three years in development.3. RADO True Square Open Heart. Rado adds two new models to its True Square Open Heart collection: one in eye-catching turquoise with diamond hour markers and a second in white with a kaleidoscope of coloured gemstones.4. LONGINES Mini DolceVita. Introduced in 2023, the Mini DolceVita line welcomes new models on double tour straps in an exclusive Longines design. Crafted from soft and sup-ple Nappa leather, they come in black, beige gold, pink, red, orange or green.Diving bellesFollowing on from the success of the Fiy Fathoms automatic in a 42mm steel case – a limited edition released for the Fiy Fathom’s 70th anniversary in 2023 – Blancpain is introducing new versions of the Fiy Fathoms Automatique 42mm in red gold and titanium, and adding the model to its current col-lection. As the brand reminds us, “the Fiy Fathoms marked a turning point in watchmaking history. The ﬁrst true diver’s watch, it established the fundamen-tal technical and aesthetic codes for this type of tool watch.”This remarkable diving instrument was given a new lease on life in the early 2000s thanks to Marc A. Hayek, Blancpain’s President and CEO; an expe-rienced diving enthusiast who made 2007 a year to remember with the launch of the 45mm Fiy Fathoms Automatique. Equipped with the specially developed Calibre 1315, it introduced a whole new generation of Fiy Fathoms watches. The same movement equips the new 42mm version. This robust and accurate automatic movement provides a substantial ﬁve-day power reserve, thanks to three series-coupled barrels.BLANCPAIN Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm. Blancpain introduces a new Fifty Fathoms Automatique in a 42mm diam-eter. Available with a blue or black dial, in red gold or tita-nium, these new models come with a wide choice of straps in matching colours, ranging from sail-canvas to NATO to a Tropic textured rubber strap, inspired by the model from 1953. Rounding off the range, the titanium model can also be paired with a titanium bracelet.

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| WATCH YOUR TIME| 59FOCUS| WATCH YOUR TIME| 59FOCUSFOCUS1 2Under Jean Arnault’s stewardship, Louis Vuitton is extending its oering with com-plications alongside more classic models, all underpinned by the same quality and expertise. Next stop, aer the Tambour, is the Escale.There’s been quite a shakeup at Louis Vuitton’s watch business since the arrival of Jean Arnault at the head of the division. Possibly the best illustration of these changes is the new Tambour, unveiled last year. It reﬂects a profound overhaul of the collections, which have all been retired bar the Tambour Street Diver and Haute Horlogerie. Since the helm in 2021, Jean Arnault has looked to instil the same expertise and the same standard of quality into both the more exclusive and more classic models; a means of doing justice to the work of the brand’s artisans and watchmakers. In other words, irrespective of price point, every model will deliver uncompromising aesthetics and mechanics.All this takes resources which, needless to say, Louis Vuitton has. Unlike other luxury brands, Louis Vuitton has never considered licensing watches as a solution. From the ﬁrst Tambour in 2002, it has developed its own original designs while steadily bringing the vari-ous specialisations in-house. The takeover, in 2011, of La Fabrique du Temps closed the loop by making Louis Vuitton a fully integrated Manufacture. A clean slateThis strategy to reposition the brand was initially materialised by the launch of the new Tambour. And this was only the beginning. 2024 sees a new strategic milestone, this time with the Escale which debuted in 2014 with a highly original Worldtime model. Over the past ten years, the Escale has incorporated various trav-el-related complications. For its tenth anniversary, it returns to the spotlight as handcraed versions as well as a time-only model. These launches perfectly align with the objective to serve the most exclusive and tra-ditional segments with the same diligence.Part of the Artistic Cras collection, the three Escale Cabinet of Wonders limited editions “map Louis Vuitton’s journey through the realms of rare and exceptional crasmanship. Their combinations of artisanal savoir-faire are unique to each model, advancing the brand’s in-house mastery of traditional decorative techniques.” Indeed, this trilogy of Koi’s Garden, Snake’s Jungle and Dragon’s Cloud celebrates the remarkable work of the master engravers, sculptors, miniaturist painters, enam-ellers and marquetry artists who brought them to life. Each is a tribute to “Gaston-Louis Vuitton, third-genera-tion member of the founding family who led the company from 1907 to 1970 and whose love for artistry shaped the modern identity of Louis Vuitton.”Redefining timeThe Escale conﬁrmed its return a few months later, this time at the opposite end of the horological spectrum with a time-only model displaying hours, minutes and seconds. Two of these four new Escale are in rose gold with textured dials and two in platinum, decorated with ornamental and precious stones. These new models are grounded in Louis Vuitton’s “historic and unparalleled savoir-faire in trunkmaking.”Accordingly, the watches’ lugs reference the angled form and riveted exterior of the brass brackets and cor-ners that reinforce the iconic trunks. These brass rein-forcements are echoed on the dial, where angled and riveted markers hold together the central dial and the outer minute track. Studs on the minute track echo the nails on the protective lozines while the dial texture for the rose gold models mimics the ﬁnely grained surface of Louis Vuitton Monogram canvas. Keeping time inside the 39mm case is the LFT023 movement, ﬁrst seen on the 2023 Tambour models. Produced by La Fabrique du Temps in conjunction with Le Cercle des Horlogers, it is chronometer-certiﬁed by Geneva Observatory as an indication of timekeeping precision. Inscribed at the base of the dial, “FAB. EN SUISSE” (made in Switzerland) is “a statement of manufacturing integrity” for a watch that invites its wearer to deﬁne their own time. ■ Eric Dumatin1. LOUIS VUITTON Escale Time-Only Automatic Cal. LFT023. Marking the Escale’s tenth anniversary, Louis Vuitton reveals the new cartography of the collection which, for the first time in a decade, introduces a time-only model with chronometric preci-sion. This latest Escale is characterised by highly textured, tactile surfaces, an elevated approach to case design and sophisticated finishes. Its movement originates in the rich terrain of traditional Swiss watchmaking. This version in rose gold features a discreet, sophisticated blue textured dial to enjoy luxury every day.2. LOUIS VUITTON Escale Time-Only Automatic Cal. LFT023. This platinum version juxtaposes the near-fluid shine of an onyx central dial with the geometric sparkle of a bezel and case set with baguette-cut diamonds, forming an ethereal halo that draws the gaze towards the inky depths of the black dial. Hands and indexes in white gold create a monochromatic symphony of light and shade that invites discovery and delights the eye.Time traveller

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| WATCH YOUR TIME| 61© JOCELYN PASSERONTECHTECHIWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night. This watch combines an 18k Armor Gold® case with an Obsidian lacquered dial and gold-plated hands and gold appliques. The fly-ing minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock consists of 56 parts and weighs only 0.675 gram. A further highlight is the innovative day and night display, which shows the eternal cycle of day and night by means of a sphere rotating around its axis. This globe-shaped indicator is visible from the dial and the movement sides. The manual-wind-ing IWC-manufactured 81925 calibre with gold-plated components can be admired through the sapphire case back.October 21, 1707. As evening sets in, a British ﬂeet sails back to English shores. The crew are exhausted, ocers dismayed. Not only had the siege on the French base at Toulon, a critical element in the War of the Spanish Succession, proved unsuccessful, the return voyage had not begun well. Almost immediately on leaving Gibraltar, the 21 ships under the com-mand of Admiral Sir Cloudesley Shovell had sailed into a storm. By the time the ﬂeet entered the Gulf of Gascony, winds were so strong as to push the ships o course. When a break in the weather ﬁnally came, Admiral Shovell used nauti-cal charts and astronomical observations to get an accurate ﬁx for his ﬂeet. For Shovell, there was no doubt: the ships were located o the coast of Brittany, on the same latitude as Ile d’Ouessant. The following morning, he set the course for Portsmouth, conﬁdent that he was leading the ﬂeet safely home. Then, on October 22, as a storm rose again, Shovell steered his ship straight onto the jag-ged reef o the Isles of Scilly. Three more ships, following astern, smashed onto the rocks. Shovell’s fatal error in calculating longitude cost the lives of more than 1,400 mariners, the admiral among them. It was one of the worst disasters British maritime history had ever known.The Royal Navy could not suer such humiliation. An approximation of this kind was unthinkable for one of the most powerful maritime forces in the world, with close to 300 vessels ruling the waves and Britain’s colonies. Accordingly, in 1714 the British Parliament passed the Longitude Act, which oered a reward of £20,000 – a colossal amount – “for such person or persons as shall discover the longitude at sea.” Conditions stipulated that the calculation must be accu-rate to half a degree (30 nautical miles) aer 40 days at sea. In France – a colo-nial power determined to wrench naval supremacy from its neighbour and rival – the Académie des Sciences would oer a similar prize four years later. →The ability to chart one’s position at sea was dependent on reliable measuring instruments. Eighteenth-century watchmakers raced to develop an accurate and dependable timekeeper. Today’s manufacturers continue this quest to ﬁnd ways to measure time with ever greater precision.For a few seconds less…By Christophe Roulet“There is need of a method for ﬁnding out the truth”.René Descartes (1596-1650)

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WATCH YOUR TIME |62 |142536TECHIn pursuit of precisionWatchmaking’s greatest minds set about the task with, in the background, centuries of rivalry between the British and the French. History tells us that the solu-tion was ﬁnally discovered not by a clockmaker but by a carpenter, John Harrison. Aer working for 20 years and producing a number of clocks, each more accu-rate than the last, in 1759 Harrison presented his now famous H4, a remarkable marine chronometer, resem-bling more a large pocket watch, that measured 13 cen-timetres in diameter and weighed 1.5 kilos. During a sea trial from Portsmouth to Jamaica between 1760 and 1761, Harrison’s chronometer fulﬁlled all requirements, reach-ing its destination just 1 minute and 54 seconds out. Even then, Parliament and the Board of Longitude were reluc-tant to award Harrison his due. He ﬁnally received pay-ment in 1773, just a few years before his death. France’s horologists had not been idle during this time. Ferdinand Berthoud’s Horloge de Marine N°8, which trialled at sea in 1768 aboard the Isis on a voyage from Rochefort to Saint-Domingue, also met the Board of Longitude’s require-ment of precision to within half a degree.The pursuit of accuracy, which in the eighteenth cen-tury took some ﬁy years to achieve any real progress, is no less of an obsession today. Three centuries aer the Longitude Act, the criteria established by the Contrôle Ociel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), the reference body which tests and certiﬁes a movement’s precision, are no longer suciently demanding for some brands. Under the rules imposed by the COSC, for a mechanical watch to qualify as a chronometer, at the end of a battery of tests its daily rate must be stable within a range of –4 to +6 seconds (meaning no more than four seconds slow or six seconds fast). “Could do better” seems to be the opinion of makers such as Grand Seiko, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Chopard, Patek Philippe and Rolex, all of which impose stricter rules for their own production. Not forgetting labels such as Qualité Fleurier and Master Chronometer Certiﬁcation, the latter instated by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS) and Omega, and which also measures resistance to magnetic ﬁelds. The stip-ulations of the COSC date from 1973 and while they are certainly the consequence of highly ecient industrial production, aer half a century of research and develop-ment, a mechanical movement’s precision has advanced considerably. Progress is perhaps not as spectacular as in John Harrison and Ferdinand Berthoud’s day – gains are measured in a mere handful of seconds – but is impor-tant, nonetheless.In terms of both manufacturing processes – CNC machines now produce components within tolerances of one micron (one thousandth of a millimetre) – and mate-rials, silicon being a prime example, the watch industry has entered the twenty-ﬁrst century determined to come ever closer to its grail and produce a mechanical watch whose accuracy stands comparison with its quartz coun-terpart. What is unrealistic for some is for others a driv-ing ambition, spurring research in multiple ﬁelds, begin-ning with the watch’s external components. Ultra-light, durable and impossible to scratch or dent, the materials used to make watch cases guarantee the correct func-tioning of the movement inside. Bulgari swears by alu-minium for its chronographs; IWC opts for Ceratanium®, a titanium alloy; Panerai chooses ScafotechTM, a car-bon-ﬁbre composite; Richard Mille goes for TitaCarb®, a high performance polymer, while Roger Dubuis prefers the same C-SMC used to build supercars (to name but some). →1. LANGE & SÖHNE Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honey-gold Lumen. Twenty-five years after the launch of the Datograph, A. Lange & Söhne presents a “Lumen” version in Honeygold that combines a flyback chronograph with a precisely jumping min-ute counter, perpetual calendar and a tourbillon with a stop-sec-onds mechanism.2. CHOPARD L.U.C Full Strike Tourbillon. The L.U.C Haute Hor-logerie collection is enriched with a new technical prodigy, as this L.U.C Full Strike adds a tourbillon with a sapphire bridge to the monobloc sapphire minute repeater of the L.U.C Full Strike series. This 42.5mm timepiece in ethical 18k rose gold is fitted with the new chronometer-certified L.U.C 08.02-L movement.3. ULYSSE NARDIN Freak S Nomad. A 99-piece limited edition, this Freak S Nomad gives off distinct spacecraft vibes. Its design revolves (literally) around the Calibre UN-251 Manufacture move-ment: a flying carousel with two oscillators that rotates on its own axis.4. RICHARD MILLE RM 21-02 Tourbillon Aerodyne. This latest RM 21-02 is the second iteration of the manual-winding RM 21-02 tourbillon calibre, which continues to stretch creative limits in a harmonious fusion of precision, lightness and resistance.5. AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Sand Gold. Audemars Piguet continues to explore innovative materi-als with its first watch in Sand Gold: an 18k gold alloy whose col-our changes from white gold to rose gold with the light and the movements of the wrist.6. ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller. Sophisticated and technical, the Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller enables inveterate travellers to rapidly find their bearings. It reaffirms its elegance through a symphony of reflections to delight the senses.

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| WATCH YOUR TIME| 63FOCUSFOCUS21Beauty, precision, clarity, regularity: Grand Seiko inscribes nature’s attributes in watches whose only standard is excel-lence.For several years now, Grand Seiko has made spe-ciﬁc reference to nature when explaining the origins of its watches. The landscapes surrounding the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi (Iwate Prefecture), where every Grand Seiko mechanical watch is made, and Shinshu Watch Studio (Nagano Prefecture), dedicated to Spring Drive and quartz movements, oer endless inspiration. They inform the aesthetic of Grand Seiko’s watches but also its Nature of Time philosophy. Such a concept demands humility and no small amount of perseverance to match the wonders around us. Grand Seiko does this in a uniquely Japanese way, exploring the interplay of light and shadow that is infused in Japanese culture to reﬂect the many faces of nature.Wagtails and birch treesThis approach to watchmaking is not just conceptual, as demonstrated by Grand Seiko’s presence at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024. Visitors to its booth could immerse themselves in a world in which watches are assembled exactly as one would plant a forest of birch trees, in quiet contemplation. They could also appreci-ate the latest mechanical advances from Grand Seiko, including at the heart of the new manual-winding high-beat watch in the Evolution 9 range; the collection which, since 2020, represents the future of Grand Seiko. “The ritual of winding a watch is one of life’s pleasures,” notes the brand. “The simple act of turning the crown taps into the senses to forge a deeper connection with time’s natural ﬂow. In the 1960s and ’70s, manually wound 10-beat Grand Seiko creations were manufactured in the pursuit of better rate stability and higher precision. This year, for the ﬁrst time in more than 50 years, Grand Seiko announces a new hand-wound high-beat move-ment, Caliber 9SA4.”A power reserve of 80 hours, achieved thanks to a Dual Impulse Escapement and two barrels, the Grand Seiko free-sprung balance and a balance spring with overcoil are some of the characteristics of this slim-line (4.15 mm high) movement. Some but not all, as the movement’s designers have given the click – the part that prevents the mainsprings from unwinding all at once – the shape of a wagtail; a bird associated with the city of Morioka, not far from the manufacturing studio. The sight of its head and beak can be enjoyed through the sapphire crystal back of this watch in Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium. There is also a limited-edition version in rose gold. Perhaps so this winged creature will feel at home in its mechanical surroundings, the dial is “inspired by the slender white birch trees that thrive in northern parts of Japan. The exquisite pattern ech-oes the beauty of the birch tree’s bark with its intricate, multi-dimensional texture.”The lion’s roarThis year Grand Seiko is celebrating the twentieth anniversary of Calibre 9R. This movement family, which equips all Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches, combines the high torque of a mechanical watch with the high precision integrated circuit control system of an elec-tronic watch. To mark this milestone, the brand has released the Sport Collection Calibre 9R Chronograph GMT (SBGC275). Nature is again an inspiration, this time the majestic Hotaka mountain range in central Japan, home of Shinshu Watch Studio, where “the sun reﬂect-ing o this soaring landscape at dawn creates beautiful mountain scenery with ebullient colours transforming from pink to orange as the early morning progresses.”Grand Seiko has succeeded in capturing these shiing colours on the watch’s dial thanks to innovative dial-pro-cessing technology “that expresses the Japanese appreci-ation for the transition of time and the beauty of nature.” This patented Optical Multilayer Coating technology employs a physical vapor deposition process. Multiple layers of nanoscale ﬁlm create an eect that causes the colour of the dial to change, depending on the angle of view. The silent gliding motion of the seconds hand across this dial adds a further dimension to this notion of the nature of time. The “lion’s mane” pattern, along with the powerful case, are references to the “king of beasts”: the symbol of Grand Seiko since its very ﬁrst watch in 1960. ■ Christophe Roulet1. GRAND SEIKO Evolution 9 Collection Manual-winding Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours. This year and for the first time in some 50 years, Grand Seiko presents a new high-fre-quency manual-winding mechanical movement, Caliber 9SA4. This is the third movement in the latest generation of the mechanical 9S platform, which debuted in 2020.2. GRAND SEIKO Sport Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition (SBGC275). The vast Hotaka mountain range rises in the Shinshu region of central Japan, where all Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches are made. This year marks the 20th anni-versary of the first Grand Seiko watch, powered by Caliber 9R, the movement platform for all Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches. The Japanese brand celebrates this milestone with a GMT Spring Drive chronograph, inspired by this beautiful mountain scenery. The dial benefits from an innovative PVD treatment technology.Force of nature

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WATCH YOUR TIME |64 |1 23 4TECHA thing of beautyChronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud introduces a second movement with a fusee-and-chain transmis-sion and a remontoire; both essential mechanisms to achieving absolute precision. This double regu-lating system was incorporated into the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE, launched in 2020 and which garnered multiple accolades for its timekeep-ing performance. The latest iteration of this move-ment, inside the Chronomètre FB RES, has a com-pletely revised design which further accentuates its sophisticated workings through a generous open-ing in the dial. This new geometry takes inspiration from a skeletonised table clock, made by Ferdinand Berthoud and preserved at the Ferdinand Berthoud Museum in Fleurier, Switzerland.The purpose of the remontoire is to ensure a steady ﬂow of energy. Through a spring positioned on a wheel between the barrel and the escapement, it stores a small amount of energy which is released in constant intervals, regardless of the level of wind in the mainspring. These impulses advance the seconds hand in “jumps”. Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud will produce 38 of the FB-RES-FC movement, which it will incorporate into as many watches. These will be open to extensive personalisation, from the case shape and material to the dial colour and ﬁnish. More than 200 variations can be explored through an online conﬁgurator.FERDINAND BERTHOUD Chronomètre FB RES. Exposing the movement components of the Chronomètre FB RES opens up unprecedented aesthetic perspectives while revealing the particularly meticulous finishing process. Each wheel, bridge and screw is entirely hand-decorated. An extraordinary level of manual finishing has been applied to reveal the beauty of each component. Placed end to end, all the angles of the wheels and their bridges, as well as those revealed at the heart of the 9 o’clock power-reserve display, represent more than two metres, filed and polished by hand.Industrial precisionThe movement’s escapement is another area in which materials are at the forefront of research. Silicon is increasingly widespread, favoured for its properties of lightness, anti-magnetism and requir-ing no lubrication. However, brands are beginning to explore other possibilities. TAG Heuer, for exam-ple, now produces certain balance springs in carbon composite. Materials are only one side of the coin, as brands rethink the actual construction of the escape-ment, giving rise to concept watches. Parmigiani’s Senﬁne is one; its oscillator combines the balance wheel, balance spring and lever into a single mono-lithic component, guided by ﬂexible blades. Zenith’s Defy Lab is another. Cased in Aeronith, essentially an aluminium foam, it too combines the functions of balance, balance spring and lever into a one-piece unit etched from monocrystalline silicon. Beating at a frequency of 15 Hz, it maintains accuracy of 0.3 sec-ond/day. A revolution in the watch industry! These examples, presented close to a decade ago and which have yet to translate into industrial production, prove the diculty of adapting innovative processes on a large scale but also show that watchmakers are a tenacious bunch, little inclined to take their foot o the pedal at a time when sports watches dominate sales across the markets. →1. PIAGET Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon. With its 41.5mm diameter, water-resistance to a depth of 20 metres and cobalt alloy case, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon appears to possess all the features of an “everyday” watch. However, its 2mm thickness and annular tourbillon elevate it to a different plane: that of the extraordinary.2. BREGUET Tradition Tourbillon 7047. The new Tradition Tourbillon highlights one of the most fascinating horological complications of all times, with striking blue accents across the fusee-chain tourbillon mechanism.3. BLANCPAIN Villeret Quantième Perpétuel. The Le Brassus-based Manufacture consistently offers beautiful timepieces that are a reflection of its wealth of watchmaking expertise. For the 2024 leap year, it has developed a new per-petual calendar, the Villeret Quantième Perpétuel. Framed by a red gold case, its dial is presented, for the first time, in an elegant shade of green.4. ZENITH Defy Skyline Tourbillon. The tourbillon testifies to the technical prowess of Manufactures and to the skill of the watchmakers who bring these mechanical marvels to life. Zenith offers a personalised, modern interpretation of this mechanism, invented in the late eighteenth century to coun-ter the effects of gravity on a watch’s precision.

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| WATCH YOUR TIME| 65FOCUSFOCUS1 2Launched in 1954, Longines’ Conquest cap-tures the mood of a forward-looking dec-ade. Marking its 70th anniversary mile-stone, the brand has reissued an original watch with a central power reserve, as well as releasing a ra of elegantly sporty models.The early mid-century was a period of greater pros-perity with many people enjoying more leisure time and hobbies such as diving and hiking. Tool watches began to appear (in the absence of relevant sports watches), many of which retained the style and elegance of pre-vious decades while incorporating practical, functional speciﬁcations such as automatic winding. Built for the great outdoors, these watches looked equally the part worn with smart evening attire. This was the context when Longines introduced the Conquest in 1954, a styl-ishly sporty watch whose 35mm diameter catered to contemporary tastes. “Historically, the Conquest has always been an important line for Longines,” notes CEO Matthias Breschan. “It was the ﬁrst Longines watch whose name was registered with the Swiss Federal Intellectual Property Institute (IPI). This year we cele-brate the collection’s 70th anniversary with a number of models. These include a reissue of a Conquest with a central power reserve, very much a Longines innovation.”Spirit of conquestFrom the beginning, in addition to its precision, the Conquest possessed three important attributes for a life of action: automatic winding, water-resistance and shock-resistance. These properties were conﬁrmed by the enamelled gold plaque depicting a ﬁsh on the case back. “The Conquest line has always been associated with the world of sport and achievement,” Longines notes. “Symbolising this spirit of conquest, the collec-tion was expanded in 1959 to include a model whose technical performance, a hallmark of the collection, is joined by a feat of design with a one-of-a-kind power reserve indicator formed by two rotating discs in the centre of the dial.”This unusual – mechanically and aesthetically – power reserve display is exclusive to Longines. Winding the movement, automatically or by the crown, makes the outer disc, which is graduated 0 to 64, rotate until maximum wind is reached and the 64 digit aligns with the rectangular tip of the baton hand on the inner disc. As the power reserve is gradually depleted, the inner disc rotates until the hand reaches 0, indicating that there is no more power le.“The aesthetics of the dial thus change continuously, creating an original poetic eect of the passage of time,” Longines writes. “This innovative mechanism echoes the long history of Longines watches with rotating discs, which began in wristwatches with the Longines Weems Second Setting from 1928, the ﬁrst to incorporate a rotat-ing subdial.” Perpetuating this expertise, the reissued Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve is a faithful interpretation of the 1959 heritage model, updated with the latest technological advances from the brand.An unrivalled heritageAdding depth to the Conquest collection for this anniversary year, Longines is releasing several other new models which match sporty elegance with a robust construction for everyday wear. Proposed in a range of sizes, from 30mm, 34mm and 38mm for the three-hand models to 42mm for the chronographs, in steel or bi-colour, with an expansive choice of dial colours, these new Conquest watches adapt to every occasion. Water-resistant to 100 metres and ﬁtted with a screw-down transparent back, they are powered by exclu-sive-to-Longines automatic mechanical movements, with a silicon balance spring and new components in anti-magnetic materials. Introduced in 2023, this new generation of Conquest watches continues to grow, ready for the next seven decades and more.As a brand founded in 1832, Longines boasts what Matthias Breschan described in a recent interview as a heritage with no equivalent in the Swiss watch indus-try. Its 192-year existence has endowed the brand with “a unique position, steeped in history and tradition. It cements our reputation which is built on our expertise and the quality of our watches. Together, these factors clearly make Longines a distinctive choice.” Today, the brand is showing how it can successfully lean into this heritage, producing watches that pay tribute to emblem-atic designs with the beneﬁt of the latest technical devel-opments, shared between sports and classical models, men’s and women’s collections. Watches which, in the CEO’s words, “are the epitome of elegance, tradition and performance.” ■ Christophe Roulet1. LONGINES Conquest Pastel Blue Stainless Steel. New models join the Conquest collection, offering sporty elegance and robust construction for daily wear. Available in a range of sizes, colours and materials, they adapt to every occasion. Exclusive-to-Longines mechanical movements are equipped with silicon balance springs and new components in anti-magnetic materials.2. LONGINES Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve. Pro-posed with three dial colours – champagne, anthracite and black – with twelve applied indexes on the fixed section in yellow gold, rose gold or silver tones. At 12 o’clock, the date window is framed by a trapezium-shaped applique. The movement inside the 38mm steel case is the new, Longines-exclusive automatic L896.5. Vis-ible through the sapphire back, this next-generation movement features a silicon balance spring and innovative components that ensure magnetic resistance ten times greater than ISO 764 standard. Beating at 25,200 vibrations/hour, it accumulates up to 72 hours of power reserve (the central indicator is marked up to 64 to leave a margin of security).70 years of elegance

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WATCH YOUR TIME |66 |142536TECHChronometric precision is not the same as complica-tions, the one exception being the chronograph whose function is to record elapsed times as short as one-hun-dredth of a second. Precision is about the ecient ﬂow of energy through the movement, as perfectly demon-strated by Cartier and its ID-Two concept watch. It’s about components made from alloys that require little or even no lubrication, something Jaeger-LeCoultre amply demonstrated with the Master Compressor Extreme Lab. And it can also be about the tourbillon regulator, as con-sistently shown by Breguet, holder of the ﬁrst patent for a tourbillon, registered in 1801.The venerable tourbillonAt a time when other watchmakers were working to resolve the problem of how to calculate longitude at sea, Abraham-Louis Breguet was developing his own concept to improve a movement’s precision: the tour-billon. He was granted the patent for his invention in 1801. Breguet’s mechanism is designed to counteract the eects of Earth’s gravity on a watch’s balance and spring by containing the entire escapement in a cage that rotates once every minute. It is probably one of the most controversial mechanisms in watchmaking his-tory. For some, while a tourbillon clearly serves a pur-pose in a pocket watch, which rarely moves from a ver-tical position inside its owner’s pocket, it oers no real beneﬁts in a wristwatch as the wearer’s natural move-ments ensure the escapement rotates through a vari-ety of positions. Others dispute this view. For them, the tourbillon remains a fundamental invention, waiting to be adapted to contemporary usage and therefore a door to new developments.Leaving this “dispute” aside, the tourbillon remains a revolutionary mechanism to which numerous mak-ers have contributed, by having it rotate on an inclined axis, by multiplying the number of tourbillons, by hav-ing them rotate on several axes and at dierent speeds, and by modifying the materials used to make the bal-ance spring, pallet stones or the escapement itself. Thirty years ago, the tourbillon was the preserve of a rare few makers. Today’s advanced manufacturing capacities and research into this mechanism have crowned the tourbillon as king! →1. CHANEL Diamond Tourbillon Calibre 5. Chanel takes the wraps off a new interpretation of the J12 Diamond Tourbillon in matte black ceramic. A solitaire diamond is set into the tourbillon cage of Calibre 5, Chanel’s first in-house flying tourbillon move-ment, to mesmerising effect.2. TAG HEUER Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon. TAG Heuer launches its Carrera chronograph, inspired by the emblematic Dato model, in a tourbillon version. This new release reprises the 2023 Glassbox version, in a vibrant teal green.3. FREDERIQUE CONSTANT Classic Tourbillon Meteorite Manufacture. For the 15th anniversary, in 2023, of its tourbil-lon movement, Frederique Constant unveiled a Classic Tourbillon Meteorite Manufacture in platinum with a meteorite dial as a limited edition of just 35 watches.4. CARTIER Santos-Dumont Skeleton. Cartier Manufacture rose to the challenge to elevate the elegant beauty of the Santos-Dumont with the introduction, in 2023, of the 9629 MC automatic skeleton calibre, purpose-developed for the watch’s iconic shape.5. MONTBLANC 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen – 42mm. This watch is powered by the MB 29.25 movement with Worldtime compli-cation which includes a 24-hour scale on rotating globes repre-senting the Northern and Southern hemispheres, day and night indications, a dual time display and a date.6. GRAND SEIKO Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon. In 2022 Grand Seiko unveiled its first mechanical complication: the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon. The story continues to unfold with this latest iteration. Inspired by daybreak, its design perfectly com-plements that of the first.

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| WATCH YOUR TIME| 67FOCUSFOCUS21Audemars Piguet revisits two iconic watches: an asymmetrical model from 1960 and the Mini Royal Oak from 1997. Two very dierent, very desirable watches.When a company has been in business for a cen-tury and a half, perfecting its cra with undiminished patience, passion and expertise, sources of inspiration are never far away. This is precisely what Audemars Piguet is demonstrating this year, as it looks back through its history. Fans of the brand will remember that in 2020, to mark the opening of the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet in Le Brassus, Switzerland, the Manufacture announced a new [RE]Master collection. The inaugural piece, a limited edition of 500 pieces, was a reinterpreta-tion of a rare 1943 chronograph wristwatch. The aim of this [RE]Master collection, says Audemars Piguet, is to “pay tribute to our long watchmaking tradition, marked by timepieces that are emblematic of their era, reinter-preted today using the most advanced technologies and a resolutely contemporary approach.”Shaping an eraNow Audemars Piguet has once again searched the treasures in its extensive archives and come up with a most unusual model. Reinterpreted as the [RE]Master02, it is a pure 1960s creation and typical of the decade’s vibrant creativity. Over the course of the Sixties, Audemars Piguet produced several watches inspired by the raw, angular geometry of Brutalist architecture. This was also a golden age of asymmetrical models for the brand. Between 1959 and 1963, Audemars Piguet cre-ated more than 30 asymmetrical models, most of which were produced as fewer than ten pieces. The model that inspired the [RE]Master02 – the 5159BA – is no excep-tion; only seven were made, one of which now has pride of place in the brand’s museum. Its 27.5mm asymmet-rical rectangular case and dial broke with the norms of classical watchmaking.This “remastered” version reprises the original’s atypical case shape, in an updated 41mm size. Satin-brushing imparts a matte ﬁnish that contrasts with the mirror-polished contours of the dial. The yellow gold of the original gives way to Sand Gold, an alloy of gold, copper and palladium whose colour is partway between white gold and rose gold. The dial in “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50”, a shade of blue obtained by physical vapour depo-sition (PVD), is a composition of 12 dierently sized tri-angles, separated by galvanised partitions and topped with a sapphire crystal whose bevelled form accentuates the asymmetry of the design. Time is displayed in its “raw state” of hours and minutes thanks to Calibre 7129, an extra-thin movement measuring 2.8mm high. The irresistible originality of a 1960s vintage model shines through in this [RE]Master02.Mini size, maxi charmNot quite so old but equally desirable, the Mini Royal Oak – a 20mm diameter introduced in 1997 – has inspired Audemars Piguet’s designers. It returns this year in a slightly larger but still petite 23mm size. “Blurring the line between jewellery and watchmaking, the Royal Oak Mini models, craed in 18k yellow, pink or white gold, combine the powerful aesthetic codes of the original Royal Oak designed by Gérald Genta in 1972 with the delicacy and sophistication of Frosted Gold for a unique, shimmering monochrome aesthetic,” notes the brand. Indeed, these new interpretations shimmer like precious stones thanks to their Frosted Gold ﬁnish. Derived from an ancient Florentine jewellery-making technique, tiny indentations are made in the surface of the gold using a diamond-tipped tool. Revived by jewellery designer Carolina Bucci, the technique was adapted by Audemars Piguet’s artisans in 2016 to decorate its timepieces.Driven by a quartz movement, the new Mini Royal Oak is a direct descendent of the miniature watches Audemars Piguet was making in the nineteenth cen-tury. Aer ﬁtting tiny complicated mechanisms into pendants, brooches and rings, from the early decades of the twentieth century the Manufacture was developing miniature movements. They include the world’s smallest ﬁve-minute repeater calibre, a mere 15.8mm in diame-ter. In a similar vein, the ﬁrst Royal Oak for women was unveiled in 1976 measuring just 29mm wide. It remains the smallest automatic Royal Oak ever made. The advent of quartz movements created new opportunities to pro-duce ever smaller Royal Oak, culminating in the 20mm version that was released in 1997 as part of the legend-ary watch’s 25th anniversary celebrations. Don’t they always say that good things come in small packages? ■ Christophe Roulet1. AUDEMARS PIGUET [RE]Master02. Audemars Piguet unveils the [RE]Master02, a contemporary remake of an asymmetrical watch produced by the Manufacture in 1960. Following on from the [RE]Master01 in 2020 (an interpretation of a 1943 chrono-graph), this 250-piece limited edition [RE]Master02 stands out for its asymmetrical 41mm rectangular case in 18k Sand Gold, an alloy whose colour is between white gold and rose gold.2. AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Mini Frosted Gold. Audemars Piguet presents the Royal Oak Mini with a quartz movement. Measuring a diminutive 23mm in diameter, with versions in 18k white, yellow or rose gold, it matches the bold design of the orig-inal Royal Oak with Frosted Gold for a unique, shimmering, mon-ochrome aesthetic.Vintage charms

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WATCH YOUR TIME |68 |1 23 4ARTICLE DOSSIERMore info on www.en.watch-safari.ch GMT Watch SafariJoin us for a week-long horological adventure discovering the Swiss watchmaking world and thespectacular scenery that surrounds itAudemars Piguet, GPHG, H. Moser & Cie., Hublot, Jaquet Droz, Louis Vuitton, MB&F, Omega, Piaget, Zenith!An Exclusive ExperienceGMT Magazine is organizing a week of experiences and visits to Swiss watch manufacturers from 27th October to 1st November 2024. Starting from Geneva’s famous Jet d’Eau to Neuhausen’s Rhine Falls, participants in this rst GMT Watch Safari will be able to enter the doors of some of Switzerland’s biggest watch brands as well as discover niche independent watchmakers, all while experiencing the breathtaking landscapes of the country. Pub WS 102x380mm_Watch your time_EU_2024.indd 1Pub WS 102x380mm_Watch your time_EU_2024.indd 1 02.07.24 09:3602.07.24 09:36TECHThe array of remarkable mechanisms released this year leaves no doubt about the tourbillon’s role as a vector for expertise. Piaget again shows its mas-tery of ultrathin in the form of the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, a record-setting 2mm high. Never short on ideas, Hermès delivers an original triple-axis central tourbillon. Richard Mille incorporates its super-lightweight tourbillon into an exceptionally resistant case made from titanium, quartz and carbon. Ulysse Nardin has imagined a new version of its orbital tourbillon/carousel. Chanel sets a diamond solitaire on the cage of its tourbillon. TAG Heuer has intro-duced a tourbillon regulator to its legendary Carrera chronograph, while Chopard pairs a tourbillon with a minute repeater. Precision may be the tourbillon’s raison d’être, collectors and manufacturers remain enthralled by its constant spinning motion and by the visual interest it brings to a watch’s dial.Timing trialsTiming trials, overseen by national observatories such as Geneva in Switzerland or Kew in the United Kingdom, have traditionally measured the level of pre-cision watchmakers are able to achieve. These trials vanished with the onset of quartz movements, but have seen a revival in interest since the 2010s… and some surprising results. One of the most successful brands at these trials is Tissot, a high-volume maker which, according to a recent Morgan Stanley report, manufactures in the region of three million watches a year: proof that precision also falls within the realm of industrial processes and that these processes are essential if Swiss watchmaking is to remain at the summit of its art. ■1. HERMÈS Arceau Duc Attelé. At the heart of this excep-tional timepiece, the Hermès H1926 manual-winding move-ment perfectly orchestrates the rotations of a central triple-axis tourbillon as well as a minute repeater that chimes on tun-ing-fork gongs.2. HUBLOT Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski Ceramic. What better expression of Hublot’s Art of Fusion than its col-laboration with Richard Orlinski? The French artist and the watch brand were destined to meet, as demonstrated by this disruptive tourbillon watch in yellow ceramic.3. BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manual. This watch in rose gold captivates as much for the slimness of its move-ment (1.95mm) as for the sense of lightness it exudes. Housed in a 40mm case which alternates satin and polished finishes, the skeleton tourbillon reveals its complex mechanism.4. LOUIS VUITTON Voyager Flying Tourbillon “Poinçon de Genève” Plique-à-Jour. Crafted as a contemporary stained-glass window, the dial of this Voyager watch reveals the perfec-tion of a flying tourbillon movement, developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton and hallmarked with the prestigious Poinçon de Genève. A horological rhapsody in blue.

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| WATCH YOUR TIME| 69FOCUSFOCUS231Montblanc strikes out in search of adven-ture with its vintage-inﬂected 1858 col-lection and its recent Iced Sea range for the underwater realm. Chronographs are also a time-honoured tradition.Montblanc watches have blazed a trail to rugged mountain peaks, through parched deserts and now into the deepest underwater abysses. Watchmaking at Montblanc is a long legacy of observation watches, time-pieces built for exploring at high altitude, dive instru-ments as well as ﬁeld chronographs and others craed in the ﬁnest tradition. With Montblanc as a name, moun-tains would always loom large in the brand’s identity, but there is more. Since Minerva joined Montblanc in 2007, the brand has acquired true horological substance. Established in 1858, the Minerva manufacture quickly rose to prominence for the quality of its timepieces and for its pioneering outlook, being one of the ﬁrst to enter the chronograph market, in 1908. Its reputation as a maker of tool watches for aviation, observation and exploration has never wavered.Call of the deepThis intrepid temperament is evident in the Montblanc watches unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva. Introduced in 2022, the Iced Sea dive watch range, inspired by the Mer de Glace glacier of the Mont-Blanc massif, leaves no-one indierent. Speaking to online watch magazine WorldTempus last December, Laurent Lecamp, CEO of Montblanc Watch Division, commented that “the Iced Sea, with its glacier dial, adjustable strap and laser engraving on the case back, is posting dou-ble-digit growth despite the slowdown. It’s our best-sell-ing watch.” Not one to rest on its laurels, Montblanc is adding a further layer of desirability to its bestseller with the launch of the Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810. As its name suggests, it is engineered to withstand pressure equivalent to a depth of 4,810 metres, which is as deep as Mont Blanc is high.A deﬁning characteristic of this watch is that oxy-gen has been removed from the 43.5mm titanium case, to eliminate fogging and prevent oxidization of the automatic MB 29.29 chronometer-certiﬁed move-ment. Another striking feature, now a hallmark of Montblanc’s adventure-ready models, is the coloured relief engraving on the case back. As Laurent Lecamp explains, “Montblanc decorates its case backs using a special technique that achieves a photo-like level of depth and realism. The backs are made from titanium. First the metal has to be structured, meaning the dec-oration is laser-engraved, reproducing the relief of the design. Laser is also used to create the desired ﬁnishes, from matte to glossy. The last stage is to introduce col-our by laser oxidation. The degree of oxidation deter-mines the ﬁnal colour.”Marking timeThis incursion below the surface of the waves, which includes an Iced Sea with a bronze case plus a burgundy dial version, hasn’t dampened Montblanc’s enthusi-asm for classic chronographs. The Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph, craed in honour of the 100th anniversary of the celebrated Meisterstück fountain pen, harks back to the earliest measuring of short intervals, when Nicolas Rieussec invented his inking chronograph in 1817. Rieussec’s device, for timing horse races, featured a nib that deposited a drop of ink on rotating discs as each horse crossed the ﬁnish line. Montblanc reprises this principle with the chronograph’s signature rotating counters pointed by a ﬁxed double hand.This demonstration of expertise rises to an even higher level with the 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph. At ﬁrst glance, the newly developed MB M17.26 monopusher chronograph move-ment appears to have been painstakingly skeletonised when in fact the entire calibre has been turned over to reveal the workings of the chronograph mechanism on the dial side. The chronograph complication is mounted on pillars to allow light to ﬂood in, while ﬁve sapphire apertures in the side of the 43mm stainless steel case are a window on the 291 hand-ﬁnished components. At Montblanc, time is about scaling new heights. ■Eric Dumatin1. MONTBLANC Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Meisterstück 100 Years. In celebration of the 100th anniver-sary of its famed Meisterstück fountain pen, Montblanc presents a limited-edition Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph which incorporates elements of the iconic writing instrument’s design.2. MONTBLANC Unveiled Minerva Monopusher Chronograph LE100. Montblanc lets the light shine into its Unveiled Minerva Monopusher Chronograph with sapphire windows in the case-band and an aesthetic reconstruction of its movement.3. MONTBLANC Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810. Following the launch, in 2022, of the Iced Sea collection with its frozen dials, Montblanc pushes the boundary even further with the Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810. In this spirit of overcoming limits, the brand explores new territories at 4,810 metres below sea level – as deep as Mont Blanc is high – to connect the ocean world to the world of mountains that has always been part of Montblanc’s DNA.A taste for adventureWILLIAM TRUBRIDGE | WORLD CHAMPION FREEDIVER AND MONTBLANC AMBASSADOR

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WATCH YOUR TIME |70 |FOCUSFOCUS21Having refocused its collections and reviewed its distribution network, Zenith is fast developing and fully intends to exploit every inch of its potential under newly minted CEO, Benoit de Clerck. Coming up, the 160th anniversary which the brand will celebrate in 2025.For a long time, Zenith was likened to a sleeping beauty; a brand still in the process of fulﬁlling its poten-tial. Not so today, although it took the full clout of LVMH, which owns the brand, to successfully turn the tide. Now helmed by Benoit de Clerck and fast developing, Zenith is wide awake, primed for the future and ready to take its rightful place. “I like to say Zenith is a teenager that still has some growing to do before it reaches adult-hood,” says de Clerck. “Of course, this also means it has its whole future ahead.” And a bright future too, given the inherent qualities of a brand poised to celebrate its 160th anniversary in 2025.An “authentic” brand“When I arrived to take over at the head of Zenith in January, I discovered certain aspects which, I admit, hadn’t occurred to me before, for example its authen-ticity,” Benoit de Clerck continues. “Having immersed myself in the brand, which included days spent in the archives, I could see how Georges Favre-Jacot, Zenith’s founder, was a visionary. He was probably the ﬁrst per-son to set up a fully integrated manufacture, bringing all the professions, even a foundry, under one roof - a revolutionary decision for that time. The same is true of the ‘Pilot’ and ‘Pilote’ trademarks which Zenith regis-tered long before aviation really took hold. These count-less stories, this long history, are etched into the walls of Zenith’s premises, on the same site where it all began in 1865.”One of the reasons Benoit de Clerck can nurture great ambitions for Zenith – which sits on solid foundations, not least as a manufacturer of accurate and reliable movements – is the refocusing of the brand’s collec-tions. The Chronomaster needs no introduction. A pil-lar of the brand, it owes its reputation to the famed El Primero movement, launched in 1969 and the ﬁrst ever high-frequency automatic integrated chronograph cali-bre. Yet despite the undeniable qualities of these legacy models and the appeal of the ranges they inspire, par-ticularly for vintage watch fans, it was time for Zenith to add new strings to its bow. Mission accomplished with the Defy and Pilot collections, which have given the brand extra bite. Both lines are a success, to the point that Benoit de Clerck expects the brand to reach an even balance across its four product ranges within the near future. “This is where my experience of inter-national markets these past twenty years will count. We will carry on in the vein of achievements so far to estab-lish Zenith as an innovative brand, with strong techni-cal content, served by original designs and oering an extremely favourable price-quality ratio.”Chronographs front and centreA brief look at the year’s new releases gives a clear idea of the direction Zenith has set itself, starting with the Defy collection – the legacy model dates from 1969 – with its characteristic angular case and dodecagonal bezel for heavy-duty wear. This year sees the launch of the Defy Skyline Chronograph, which is a slightly sof-tened interpretation compared with the Defy Extreme models. It houses the next-generation El Primero 3600 automatic movement which displays tenths of a sec-ond by means of a central hand. To quote the brand: “the Defy has always been perfectly suited for the El Primero automatic chronograph, whose high-frequency rate allows it to provide unwavering precision – even in highly animated and dynamic situations. The new Defy Skyline Chronograph is the culmination of over 50 years in elevating the chronograph to new heights. In essence, it is the Defy chronograph of the twenty-ﬁrst century.”Staying with chronographs but this time in the Pilot collection, Zenith has introduced the Pilot Big Date Flyback, also driven by the El Primero 3600, with ver-sions in steel or black ceramic. “Capturing the spirit of the aviation pioneers who set their sights far beyond the horizon,” the new Pilot collection, which includes a three-hands and date automatic, is “a call to chase your dreams – no matter how far or how high.” Rest assured that Zenith can take you there! ■ Eric Dumatin1. ZENITH Defy Skyline Chronograph. Architectural, geometric and intricately faceted, the Defy Skyline’s 42mm steel case is a modernised take on the earliest Defy’s octagonal case with a mul-ti-sided bezel. It retains the robustness and durability of its pre-decessors while bringing an edgier, more contemporary aesthetic and proportions. On the Defy Skyline Chronograph, the pushers follow the sharply drawn lines of the case, while the screw-down crown, emblazoned with the star emblem, helps ensure water- resistance of 100 metres.2. ZENITH Pilot Big Date Flyback. For this 42.5mm model in steel, Zenith has developed a new version of the El Primero 3600 calibre with functions that are a perfect fit for this Pilot watch. This version takes a page from one of the most distinguished El Primero Flyback chronographs, the aptly named “Rainbow Flyback” from 1997. The chronograph minutes totalizer alternates colours to more easily distinguish between the ﬁve-minute marks. The central chronograph seconds and chronograph minutes hands are bright orange, another nod to the 1997 model.A radiant futureBENOIT DE CLERCK | CEO, ZENITHwww.frederiqueconstant.co.ukMANUFACTUREClassic Moonphase DateBEYOND CONVENTIONS

Watch Your Time Europe EN 2024

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