Watch Your Time USA 2023 : simplebooklet.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES watchyourtime com PUBLISHER FOUNDER CHRISTIAN LL AVALL UBACH PRESIDENT ISABELLE BOUDRINGHIN WATCH COMMUNICATION SPECIALIST ERIC DUMATIN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR CHRISTOPHE ROULET WRITERS VINCENT DAVE AU VICTORIA GOMELSK Y JAMES GURNEY MICHEL JE ANNOT ROBERTA NAAS PALOMA RECIO CHRISTOPHE ROULET TRANSLATION SANDRA PETCH ART DIRECTION VINCENT FESSELET LA CASAGRANDE GENEVA PHOTOENGRAVING BOMBIE GENEVA PRINTED IN EU REPRODUCTION EVEN PARTIAL OF MATERIAL PUBLISHED IN WATCH YOUR TIME IS S TR IC TLY PROH IB ITE D ALL R IG HTS R E SE RVE D IN THE USA ALL IMAGES PHOTOS AND ILLUSTRATIONS REPRODUCED IN THIS ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT ARE THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE WATCH BRANDS CHOPARD MILLE MIGLIA GTS POWER CONTROL BAMFORD EDITION DESERT RACER FOLLOWING A SUCCESSFUL INITIAL COLL ABOR ATION IN 2021 CHOPARD IS ONCE AGAIN COMBINING ITS CREATIVITY WITH THAT OF THE BAMFORD WATCH DEPARTMENT STUDIOS TO DELIVER A VERY EXCLUSIVE EDITION OF ITS MILLE MIGLIA GTS POWER CONTROL TIMEPIECE WITH ITS OR ANGE GR AY AND BLACK DETAILS OVERSIZED NUMERALS AND WOVEN EFFECT RUBBER STR AP THIS NEW MODEL REFLECTS THE PASSION UNITING CHOPARD WITH MOTORSPORTS THESE 50 TIMEPIECES ARE CRAFTED IN BEAD BLASTED TITANIUM A LIGHT YET STURDY MATERIAL SUBTLY COMBINING SLEEK AESTHE TICS AND TECHNICAL EXCELLENCE IT IS POWERED BY THE CHOPARD 01 08 C MOVEMENT ENDOWED WITH CHRONOMETER CERTIFIED ACCUR ACY fine watches magazine USA EDITION SUNDAY OCTOBER 29 2023 This advertising supplement is produced by Watch Your Time Holding and did not involve the reporting or editorial staff of The New York Times ED ITOR IAL Future proof11 CAR TI ER The conquest of time17 LOU IS VU IT TON 21st century icon20 CHOPARD The alchemist of time22 TAG HEUER Pole position24 A return to classics26 PANER AI The Italian way29 BVLGAR I Under one roof31 FREDERIQUE CONSTANT Beating heart32 BLANCPAIN Master of the deep36 Hyper materials 38 GR AND SEIKO World first43 The photographer s gaze44 B R EGUE T Contemporary elegance47 A thing of beauty48 ACCUTRON Evolution51 CHANEL Interstellar capsule53 ROLEX 60 years at the top54 CITIZEN Great expectations56 The silicon revolution58 HUB LOT 43 years of audacity61 LONGINES On the wings of time63 BULOVA Time and music64 R ADO Master of materials66 Our cover by Thiemo Sander Beauty is in the eye of the beholder Oscar Wilde 1854 1900 Thiemo Sander is a Paris based German photographer His first encounter with photography was at the age of 14 when his father gave him a camera He went on to study photography in Munich getting his big break when German Elle published his pictures His images of women highlight their individual sensuality and beauty character and inner spirit While he prefers to stay out of the spotlight himself Thiemo Sander works extensively in fashion and jewellery for brands such as Fred Cartier and Boucheron He has also photographed personalities including Monica Bellucci Emmanuelle Beart Lea Seydoux Isabelle Adjani and Diane Kruger THIEMO SANDER PHOTOGRAPHER ALI SAADI ART DIRECTOR HEAD OF ART

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11 WATCH YOUR TIME USA EDITORIAL Future proof SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES JAEGER LECOULTRE CALIBER 945 FITTED IN THE MASTER HYBRIS ARTISTICA CALIBER 945 THIS MOVEMENT UNITES A SKY CHART WITH A CELESTIAL VAULT A ZODIACAL CALENDAR AND A MINUTE REPEATER AND IS FURTHER ELEVATED BY JAEGER LECOULTRE S COSMOTOURBILLON A CELESTIAL FLYING TOURBILLON S omewhere in some enchanted place lives the watch of your dreams The one that consumes your every waking moment Whose arrival you have meticulously planned But can you be sure the longedfor timepiece is in stock at your local AD That your name won t be added to the bottom of a waiting list that s already months possibly even years long These are very real questions for anyone coveting certain mechanical models The watch industry not only produces intensely desirable products it knows how to maintain that desire regardless of the market context This has translated into a string of record years for the profession on the basis of mechanisms built according to principles that are more than five hundred years old In the age of the smartwatch and wall to wall digital this is nothing short of impressive In a competitive environment a business must know how to turn weaknesses into strengths This is exactly what these watch brands many of which were established well over a century ago have done Caught napping by the quartz technology that flooded the market in the 1980s today they enjoy rosy health boosted by sales across all four corners of the globe They owe their eternal youth to one small object the mechanical watch Anachronistic outmoded antiquated for some for collectors and enthusiasts the mechanical timepiece is a distillation of specialist knowledge science art and technique If watchmakers were to demonstrate that not everything that could be invented had been invented their only option was innovation and if current production is anything to go by they have succeeded brilliantly Since the revival of the mechanical watch in the early 2000s brands have shown themselves capable of remarkable creativity in design movement construction and the application of high tech materials always with the objective of ultimate precision shockresistance and reliability using methods that promote sustainability social responsibility and environmental protection As a result today s mechanical watches are more accurate more robust more reliable more Taken to an extreme this gives watches that weigh just a couple of grams are no thicker than a credit card and gain or lose a maximum of two seconds a day In much the same way that Formula 1 is a laboratory for the cars on tomorrow s roads producing innovations in mechanical and materials sciences that will benefit an entire industry watchmaking is building the future Christophe Roulet Helmut Stelzenberger Helmut Stelzenberger is a German photographer whose work is in demand worldwide from New York to Tokyo or Milan although his heart and his home are in Paris His pictures which have been described as metaphorical exposure demonstrate his ability to use light to remarkable effect immortalizing change so that the past will be remembered for the future He interprets and conveys things we could never see without his gaze and vision Helmut Stelzenberger s work has featured in numerous international magazines and he has shot campaigns for global brands including Chanel Cartier Longines Louis Vuitton Ralph Lauren and Dior See pages 44 to 46

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17 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES The conquest of time At the helm since 2016 Cyrille Vigneron has given fresh impetus to Cartier s watches conquering second place in the horological hierarchy in the process CYRILLE VIGNERON PRESIDENT AND CEO CARTIER Everything we did to revitalise the brand over the past five years has paid off We have taken back our number two position Speaking during Watches and Wonders Geneva Cyrille Vigneron is in no doubt the importance given to timepieces has put the brand s watches on an equal footing with its jewellery Not from a sales perspective granted but certainly in terms of awareness As the Cartier CEO reminds us the brand which was established in Paris in 1847 enjoyed its first success as a jeweller gaining prominence under the stewardship of Louis Pierre and Jacques the three grandsons of founder Louis Fran ois Cartier While watches became part of its repertoire early on it concentrated on design and turned to Swiss manufacturers for the movements It wasn t until the 1970s that Cartier became a watchmaker in the true sense with its own production facilities This was a smart move given its position in the horological landscape today Morgan Stanley estimates that the brand s watchmaking division turned over CHF 2 7 billion in 2022 which is around 30 of its total sales Cartier is now the second largest watch company in the world with the creativity to CARTIER SANTOS DUMONT SKELETON WATCH THE SANTOSDUMONT SKELETON WATCH IS A TRIBUTE TO ALBERTO SANTOSDUMONT WHO ROSE QUITE LITER ALLY TO FAME AS THE INVENTOR OF 22 FLYING MACHINES RISKING LIFE AND LIMB WITH E ACH OF HIS EXPERIMENTAL FLIGHTS IT IS FITTED WITH THE AUTOMATIC 9629 MC CALIBER A MICRO ROTOR MOVEMENT THAT WAS ALMOST TWO YE ARS IN DE VELOPMENT AND COMPRISES 212 PARTS THIS INVENTIVE SKELETON MOVEMENT INCORPORATES NUMEROUS DETAILS THAT prove it While some exhibitors came to Watches and Wonders Geneva with a single new product Cartier unveiled more than sixty an astonishing number As Cyrille Vigneron explained to Hodinkee the brand is sticking to the same winning strategy which covers three main territories First the historic Cartier form watches that are gently rejigged in line with modern tastes without betraying their original spirt The likes of the Panth re Santos Ballon Bleu or Tank Fran aise relaunched early in the year or the Baignoire that caught everyone s eye in Geneva All these watches become the basis for a small collection of new interpretations Style and elegance Then Cartier Priv Each year the Cartier Priv collection celebrates the Maison s iconic models through limited edition numbered watches rare creations that bridge the gap between Cartier s watchmaking heritage and today s aesthetic vision The Crash the Tank Cintr e the Tonneau the Tank Asym trique the Cloche and the Tank Chinoise have all had the honour of joining this private club Seventh in line in 2023 is the Tank Normale including in a highly REFERENCE THE PIONEERING AVIATOR INCLUDING THE MINIATURIZED OSCILLATING WEIGHT IN THE SHAPE OF THE DEMOISELLE A TR A I LB L A ZI NG P L ANE WH I CH SANTOS DU M ONT DES I GNED I N 1907 THE SYMBOL IS ALL THE MORE POWERFUL AS IT APPEARS TO SOAR ABOVE A GLOBE THE SANTOS DUMONT SKELETON WATCH BUILDS ON THE ELEGANT LEGACY OF THE VERY FIRST MODEL FROM 1904 PARTICUL ARLY REFINED THE VERSION IN YELLOW GOLD AND NAV Y L ACQUER IS A LIMITED EDITION OF 150 PIECES original skeletonized version Conceptualized in 1917 and introduced to the market two years later the Tank is one of the most remarkable creations of the Maison and indeed in the history of watchmaking Its meticulous design and pure lines have made it an icon that has transcended time For collectors Cartier also reissues certain particularly sought after models in versions that are as close as possible to the original design as with the Pasha Complete Calendar in 2021 or last year s Pebble This leaves the Cartier Libre collection where as Cyrille Vigneron succinctly puts it we can do whatever we want Part of this year s offering is the Clash Un Limited jewellery watch an architec tural articulated structure composed of bevels and facets spikes studs and beads that roll against the wrist Releases such as these for women by no means undermine the dialogue Cartier is engaging with men who represent between 30 and 40 percent of its clientele Paradoxi cally says Cyrille Vigneron the more we focus on style and elegance rather than mechanisms the more men come to us At Cartier some things never change Eric Dumatin CARTIER TANK NORMALE SKELETON WATCH IMAGINED IN 1917 THE TANK IS ONE OF THE MOST ENDURING FORMS IN THE HISTORY OF WATCHMAKING CARTIER HAS NOW ADDED A SKELETON MOVEMENT TO THIS ICON ALONG WITH A 24 HOUR COMPLICATION REPRESENTED BY SUN AND CRESCENT MOON SHAPES CUT INTO THE CALIBER DAY TIME HOURS ARE SHOWN ON THE UPPER PART OF THE DIAL AND NIGHT TIME HOURS ON THE LOWER PART THE SKELETONIZED BRIDGES GO FROM A LIGHT TO DARK SHADE TO SYMBOLISE THE PASSAGE FROM DAY TO NIGHT

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 20 21st century icon JEAN ARNAULT LOUIS VUITTON WATCHES DIRECTOR No one saw it coming but when the Tambour did arrive the watch world took notice Reference LV277 was every inch a Vuitton its brown dial echoed the trunk maker s canvas yellow hands recalled the beeswax coated linen thread of its saddle stitching and the 12 letters of the Louis Vuitton name were spelled out on the side of the unusual bassine case The mechanics were of an equally fine pedigree a high frequency chronograph on an El Primero base measuring tenths of a second and COSC chronometercertified After a long line of variations including GMT and regatta models alongside considerably more exclusive complications such as a bichronograph and the Spin Time with its rotating cubes the Tambour comes home Under the stewardship of Jean Arnault Watch Director at Louis Vuitton the new Tambour adopts the sophistication and elegance one would expect from a twenty first century icon One for all First we looked at the curved shape of the case which gives the Tambour its special charm and the strap integration and working from there we thought about how we could alter the design without transforming it with the aim of creating the first Louis Vuitton watch on an integrated bracelet says Jean Arnault We wanted this to be a watch with great substance in terms of horological content in the Louis Vuitton style and with a distinctive identity A watch on which we could build a collection for the next twenty years I d say the result is quite different from the original Tambour and at the same time there can be no doubting its lineage The new Tambour has a more refined shape and is distinguished by haute horlogerie finishing while the laidback aesthetic already tells you this is a watch you won t want to be without Presented as five references gold steel gold and steel the new Tambour puts the emphasis on comfort and wearability Just 8 3mm thick it hugs the wrist thanks to the slender lightly curved bracelet links the circular arc of the caseback and the triple blade folding clasp Aside from jewelry watches and the very decorative m tiers d art models it makes no sense in this day and age to think in terms of watches for Monsieur and watches for Madame continues Arnault This 40mm Tambour is typical of an approach whereby we consider the watch more as an object rather than in terms of masculine or feminine attributes Characteristics such as elegance fluidity or the tactile quality of a particular finish cannot be described as belonging to a given gender and all for one The difficulty when launching a three hand or time only watch is how to stand out in an already overcrowded segment Meanwhile the popularity of sport luxe a throwback to the watches that upturned convention in the 1970s has led to a plethora of LOUIS VUITTON CALIBER LFT023 THE NEW CAL LFT023 IS MORE THAN THE MOVEMENT DRIVING THE EVOLVED TAMBOUR IT IS ALSO THE FIRST 3 HAND PROPRIETARY AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT WITH A STRONG LV GRAPHIC SIGNATURE AND A HIGH LEVEL OF SOPHISTICATION THIS MOVEMENT WAS DEVELOPED IN COLLABORATION WITH LE CERCLE DES HORLOGERS IT IS RESOLUTELY CONTEMPOR ARY WITH MICROSANDBLASTED BRIDGES POLISHED EDGES AND CHAMFERS REPLICATING THE AESTHETIC VOCABULARY OF THE REST OF THE WATCH

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21 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS Unveiled on July 5 the reworked Louis Vuitton Tambour is a piece of masterful watchmaking distinguished by its sculpted flowing lines SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES models with integrated bracelets some of which have languished while others have gone on to greatness One look at the new Tambour leaves no doubt as to where it stands A lesson in harmony it offers a degree of subtlety in its details and finishing that make this functional legible well structured watch remarkably elegant with its clean architectural lines Despite being barely more than a millimeter thick the dial shows surprising depth The hour track is microblasted with the outer circle reserved for minutes and the inner circle for applied indices and hour numerals The center is vertically brushed while the small seconds subdial features snailing The same level of finishing can be seen on the case and bracelet with a majority of brushed parts the exception being the chamfers and central links of the bracelet which are polished and the sandblasted LOUIS VUIT TON TAMBOUR IN 2002 LOUIS VUIT TON PREMIERED THE TAMBOUR WATCH AN IMMEDIATELY RECOGNISABLE DRUM SHAPED CASE WITH A BOLD AND ARRESTING VISION OF TIME INTERPRETATION AFTER 21 YEARS THE TAMBOUR HAS MATURED AND ITS NEXT EXPRESSION COMES IN A SLIMMER FORM CHARACTERIZED BY EXCEPTIONAL FINISH CASUAL ELEGANCE AND SCULPTURAL FLUID LINES TWO STEEL VERSIONS DISTINGUISH THE LAUNCH OF THE NEW TAMBOUR REINFORCING THE DESIGNATION OF THIS bezel with the Louis Vuitton name in raised letters The care and attention lavished on the outside of this Tambour is replicated on the inside When developing the exclusive LFT023 automatic caliber a mere 4 2mm high thanks to a micro rotor La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton consulted with Le Cercle des Horlogers movement design studio The result is distinctly contemporary in terms of appearance with a circular grained plate microblasted and chamfered bridges and transparent jewels Beating at 28 800 vibrations hour 4 Hz it provides 50 hours of power reserve Louis Vuitton is the first brand to submit a watch for certification by Geneva s Observatoire Chronom trique under the aegis of the TimeLab Foundation The movement therefore meets ISO 3159 criteria which include a mean daily rate of 4 6 seconds COLLECTION FOR DAILY WE AR A TONE ON TONE MODEL WITH SILVER GREY DIAL OR ONE WITH A CONTRASTING DEEP BLUE DIAL ARE THE OPTIONS FOR THE INTRODUCTION OF THE MAISON S REBORN EMBLEMATIC COLLECTION AN ENRICHED TAMBOUR WITH TWO ADDITIONAL FIRSTS FOR LOUIS VUITTON AN INTEGRATED BR ACELE T AND AN E XCLUSIVE NE W AND BE AUTIFULLY CR AF TED AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT DESIGNED BY LA FABRIQUE DU TEMPS LOUIS VUITTON Vertical integration This three hand movement is a first for us Jean Arnault continues Until now La Fabrique du Temps focused on complications which doesn t mean a movement that only shows the time is easy by comparison On the contrary Because these movements are usually intended for larger scale production there can be no tolerances The construction must be completely irreproachable and 100 reliable before production can begin This explains why the new Tambour was two years in development The movement is a milestone in itself Since taking over La Fabrique du Temps in 2011 we have been vertically integrating the different watchmaking specialisms The LFT023 brings us closer to our goal This is a vital evolution as it confirms the credibility and authenticity of what we do No doubt about it this new generation Tambour has its place on the wrist of anyone who appreciates fine watchmaking The kind that leaves nothing to chance Eric Dumatin

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 22 The alchemist of time From end 2023 Chopard will only use steel containing 80 recycled metal for its watches K AR L FR IEDR ICH SCHEUFELE C O P R E S I D E N T CHOPARD To call Chopard a modern day alchemist isn t as far fetched as it may sound In much the same way that the alchemists of old looked for techniques to transmute base metals into precious metals turning lead into gold the Geneva based Manufacture invests in producing responsible metals that are respectful of people and the planet It s a long term commitment that began a decade ago when the brand embarked on its Journey to Sustainable Luxury Since July 2018 its foundry has sourced all its gold from transparent and traceable sources Now after ethical gold comes steel Speaking at the Watches and Wonders fair in Geneva earlier this year Karl Friedrich Scheufele Co President of this familyowned firm explained that as of end 2023 Chopard would use only steel containing 80 recycled metal for its watch collections So as to further underline this commitment Chopard has become the first luxury brand to join the Climate Group s SteelZero initiative to speed up the steel industry s transition to net zero carbon emissions What does this mean in practical terms Chopard s Lucent Steel A223 is manufactured in Austria by Voestalpine B hler Edelstahl one of the largest steel producers in the world First seen in 2019 CHOPARD MILLE MIGLIA CLASSIC CHRONOGRAPH AT A SMALLER 40 5MM THIS MILLE MIGLIA WON T GET IN THE WAY OF YOUR DRIVING AND WILL LOOK THE PART WHETHER IT S WORN WITH A RACING SUIT OR AN EVENING SUIT THE SAPPHIRE CASEBACK REVEALS A COSC CERTIFIED CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENT AUTOMATIC WINDING ACCUMULATES 54 HOURS OF POWER RESERVE with the launch of the Alpine Eagle collection and containing 70 recycled metal Lucent Steel is to quote the brand as rich precious and complex as gold with three unique characteristics Thanks to its hypoallergenic composition Lucent Steel A223 is endowed with properties similar to those of surgical steel With a hardness of 223 Vickers this proprietary alloy is 50 more resistant to abrasion than conventional steel Thirdly its crystal microstructure which is more homogenous than that of conventional steel gives it a reflective quality and a brilliance comparable to white gold Sustainable luxury Never one to rest on its laurels Chopard has announced its intention to extend its use of recycled steel This year we are introducing Lucent Steel to all our collections and increasing its recycled content to 80 Our objective is to reach a minimum of 90 by end 2025 said Karl Friedrich Scheufele We ve gone from dream to reality but only after four years of research and development Now our efforts are rewarded as we extend Lucent Steel to all our collections by end 2023 In volume terms this represents 25 to 30 tonnes a year CHOPARD ALPINE EAGLE XPS ALPINE EAGLE IS CHOPARD S SPORTS WATCH LINE INSPIRED BY THE 1980S ST MORITZ WATCH ITS CLE AN DESIGN AND SOPHISTICATED MECHANISM ARE EVIDENT IN THIS E X TR A THIN E XECUTION BOTH THE CASE AND THE INTEGR ATED BRACELET ARE IN LUCENT STEEL AN EXCLUSIVE ALLOY THAT WAS INTRODUCED WITH THE ALPINE E AGLE COLLECTION IN 2019 REMARK ABLE FOR ITS RESISTANCE AND SHINE THIS STEEL NOW From theory to practice this new Lucent Steel appears in Chopard s four flagship ranges as the Alpine Eagle XPS the Happy Sport 25 mm the L U C 1860 and the Mille Miglia Classic Chrono graph Drawing inspiration from the first timepiece in this collection from 1997 the L U C 1860 36 5 mm diameter features a salmon colored hand guilloch dial in solid gold and houses the L U C 96 40 L extra thin 3 3 mm high caliber which has COSC certification This same move ment which is automatically wound by micro rotor and delivers 65 hours of power reserve thanks to twin barrels also drives the Alpine Eagle XPS with an integrated steel bracelet and a textured Monte Rosa Pink dial The Happy Sport 25 mm introduces a new size option that can be admired on the wrist of Julia Roberts the face of all Chopard s women s collections Completing the line up in Lucent Steel is the 40 5mm Mille Miglia The effortlessly legible dial comes in different shades inspired by the colors of classic racing cars under a retro inspired glassbox crystal Energy and elegance engineer ing and performance speed and style the famed Italian classic car race shares many attributes with Chopard s unique alchemy Eric Dumatin HAS AN INCREASED RECYCLED METAL CONTENT OF 80 AND WILL BE ROLLED OUT TO ALL CHOPARD S WATCH COLLECTIONS BEATING INSIDE THE 41M M CASE IS THE L U C 96 40 L MOVEM ENT AN E X TR ATHIN CALIBER AT 3 3MM HIGH COSC CHRONOMETER CERTIFIED IT DELIVERS 65 HOURS OF POWER RESERVE THANKS TO CHOPARD S TWIN TECHNOLOGY OF TWO STACKED BARRELS THE DIAL ON A BRASS PLATE SHOWS SMALL SECONDS AT 6 O CLOCK

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES Pole position The TAG Heuer Carrera enters its seventh decade with not a wrinkle in sight In celebration of this icon the brand has released a series of new models that build on the past but clearly look to the future FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 24 FR D RIC ARNAULT CEO TAG HEUER Reliability performance and innovation these are the characteristics of the TAG Heuer Carrera which this year celebrates sixty years in constant acceleration having clocked up more than 500 references These words from TAG Heuer CEO Fr d ric Arnault s keynote at the Watches and Wonders Geneva fair sum up a watch that right from its launch in 1963 became the ultimate racing driver s chrono With so many variations over its six decades the Carrera is of course more than this but its origins on the racing circuit make this a watch built for speed and for action To what does the Carrera owe its success asked Arnault A strong and distinctive design constant new developments and an osmosis with motor sports The Chase for Carrera an action packed movie with moments of pure comedy that celebrates this icon s six decades captures its fast and furious personality with none other than Ryan Gosling at the wheel of a Porsche 911 and David Leitch John Wick Deadpool Bullet Train in front of and behind the camera As Fr d ric Arnault reminded the audience Carrera owes its long running popularity on and off the TAG HEUER CARRERA CHRONOGRAPH TOURBILLON GLASSBOX THIS NEW CARRERA IS EQUIPPED WITH THE TH20 09 CALIBER AN IN HOUSE TOURBILLON MOVEMENT WITH BIDIRECTIONAL WINDING FOR IMPROVED EFFICIENCY AND ACCURACY THAT PROVIDES 65 HOURS OF POWER RESERVE THIS CHRONOMETER CERTIFIED COSC MOVEMENT ALSO HAS A CHRONOGRAPH FUNCTION AND IS BAC KED BY A FIVE YE AR WAR R ANT Y E VERY ELEM ENT HAS BEEN STUDIED TO REFLECT THE MECHANICAL BEAUTY OF THE TOURBILLON motor racing circuit to the mechanics under its hood Here is a watch that in 1969 housed the first ever automatic chronograph caliber the now legendary Caliber 11 Since then TAG Heuer s Research and Development division has continued to push the boundaries with movements that record elapsed times in increasingly tiny fractions think of the Carrera Mikrogirder and its mechanical precision of 1 2000th of a second Here too the brand has called on industry A listers Its Movements Director since 2020 is Carole Forestier Kasapi a movement designer at the top of her game who in 2021 was awarded the Prix Ga a in the CraftsmanshipCreation category The first watches developed under her stewardship were released last year Speaking in Geneva she explained how first of all we worked on movement reliability to then offer a five year extended warranty We also introduced the solar powered TH50 00 Solargraph and the COSC certified TH30 00 with 70 hours of power reserve that now equips the Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver This marked an important step for TAG Heuer in terms of performance TAG HEUER CARRERA DATE IN CELEBR ATION OF THE CARRER A S 60TH ANNIVERSARY TAG HEUER HAS RELE ASED A NEW VERSION OF THE CARRERA DATE 36MM THAT SPOTLIGHTS A SPORTY AND ERGONOMIC PROFILE WHILE RETAINING THE COLLECTION S MOTOR RACINGINSPIRED CODES THIS NEW SERIES OFFERS COLORED DIALS A TAPERED BRACELET DESIGN AND AN UPGRADED MOVEMENT THE 36MM CARRERA DATE WATCHES CARRY SPECIAL SIGNIFICANCE AS THE FIRST HEUER CARRER A FROM 1963 ALSO ME ASURED 36MM IN DIAMETER No limits This year s releases in the brand s two flagship ranges are similarly impressive starting with an Aquaracer Professional 200 dive watch in solid gold Particular care has gone into the finishing on the TH31 00 movement a new in house caliber that is COSC certified and features a beefed up 80 hour power reserve The Carrera is of course part of this wave of innovation Following on from the classic 60th anniversary edition with panda dial introduced early in the year TAG Heuer came to Watches and Wonders with a raft of new models They include two Carrera Chronographs featur ing that collector s favourite a domed Glassbox crystal The 39mm case is ergonomically designed while the overall aesthetic emphasises curves and flow Legibility is perfect Proposed with a blue dial or a reverse panda dial both these releases are driven by the TH20 00 caliber which is an updated version of the Heuer 02 Naturally TAG Heuer s Movements Director had more tricks up her sleeve The new TH20 09 caliber also COSC certified equips the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon As with the TH20 00 Carole Forestier Kasapi and TAG Heuer s move ments team developed the TH20 09 to offer bidirectional winding for improved power efficiency and precision Finishing is of a higher grade and there is a five year warranty Eric Dumatin

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27 WATCH YOUR TIME USA ELEGANCE SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES o roberta naas A return to classics Thinner smaller more elegant these are the buzz words for 2023 watch design and beyond This year in the watch world a lot of small changes have taken place that are leading to a larger evolution It s been a year of scaling down in watch sizes a transition from the big 48mm and 46mm watches of the past few decades to smaller sizes in the more universally wearable 38mm and 40mm sizes Additionally many brands have jumped on the ultra thin band wagon that first enjoyed a heyday in the mid twentieth century and then a reprise in the past decade or so with certain brands vying to unveil the thinnest watches in the world Not all brands are trying to break records though many are just trying to set their own personal best when it comes to slimming down the height of a movement and ensuing watch case with many spending months and even years in research and development to shave just a millimeter or two off of the thickness of a watch The goal of slimming and trimming make watches more wearable for all genders We are charmed by simple elegance Ovid 4 3 B C 17 A D The Race for slimness For those in the ongoing race to build the thinnest watches in the world whether hand wound or automatic the journey often takes years Creating a thin mechanical watch is no easy feat It requires the reduction in size of all components and often requires a total redesign of a movement or the creation of a completely new caliber Piaget was a leader in the twentieth century when it came to ultrathin watches pioneering in this space In fact Piaget was setting records as far back as 1957 when the brand launched its Caliber 9P a mechanical movement measuring just 2mm thick Revolutionary at the time the Caliber 9P opened the doors for even more research at Piaget and three years later the brand released its multi patented 12P with micro rotor Since then Piaget has been revered as a true master of ultra thin watches In recent years Piaget has focused its prowess on the Altiplano collection but earlier this year it brought this expertise to the beloved Polo line Intent on packing thin watches with complications Piaget unveiled the 1255 ultra thin 4mm caliber in its Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin watch Chocked with 42 hours of power reserve and perpetual calendar functions it measures a scant 8 65mm in thickness and 42mm in diameter While Piaget continues to be a forerunner in the record setting ultra thin space throughout the past decade the brand has encountered strong competition from Bvlgari and a little later in the game from Richard Mille Beginning in 2014 Bvlgari has been setting records with its Octo Finissimo watches Its first ultra thin c1a 9li5bemrmwathsicthkeaBnVdLw2a6s8athmaat nmueaal sured JAEGER LECOULTRE REVERSO TRIBUTE DUOFACE TOURBILLON LA GRANDE MAISON PRESENTS THE REVERSO TRIBUTE DUOFACE TOURBILLON IN ROSE GOLD INSPIRED BY ITS FIRST TOURBILLON WRISTWATCH THE REVERSO TOURBILLON INTRODUCED THIRTY YEARS AGO A GLORIOUS EXPRESSION OF CALIBER 847 WHICH DEBUTED IN 2018 IT SHINES A SPOTLIGHT ON THE MANUFACTURE S AVOWED EXPERTISE IN TOURBILLONS INCORPORATING THE DUOFACE CONCEPT ITS TWO DIALS PRESENT TWO DIFFERENT AESTHETICS WITH A SECOND TIME ZONE AND A DAYNIGHT INDICATOR ON THE REVERSE D IAL THE U LTR A TH I N M ANUALWINDING JAEGER LECOULTRE CALIBER 847 COMPRISES 254 COMPONENTS AND MEASURES JUST 3 9MM THICK

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES ELEGANCE WATCH YOUR TIME USA 28 tourbillon the thinnest of its kind at the time Since that release the brand has enjoyed a saga of world records almost every year Last year 2022 marked the tenth anniversary of the Octo collection and in March of that year Bvlgari unveiled its eighth world record watch the Octo Finissimo Ultra Stating that this would be the final ultra thin conquest the Octo Finissimo Ultra measured just 1 80mm thick The brand had beat Piaget s world record and for a short time enjoyed the limelight However in summer of 2022 a true surprise was in store Richard Mille stunned the world with its RM UP 01 Ferrari watch that measures 1 75mm in thickness and that still holds the world record as the slimmest mechanical automatic watch More than 6 000 hours of research and development in collaboration with Audemars Piguet s technical team went into the making of that timepiece which retails for 1 88 million Smaller more elegant looks Going hand in hand with slimmer profiles we have also witnessed a reduction in case diameters and a continued return to more classic looks Top watch brands are quietly making a move from the larger 46mm and 48mm and bigger watches to more manageable sizes While three dimensional architecture still plays a role in many a watch smaller cleaner looks dominate the landscape Half a century ago watches began growing from 36 and 38mm sizes to larger and larger diameters as brands began exploring space age like watch architecture Sizes grew to high 40s and low 50mm But in the past decade those sizes have been reeled in especially as micro and nanotechnology have reduced the size of parts fitting more functions into a smaller diameter watch Today the 42mm 40mm and even 38mm sizes are gaining the most attention These sizes especially when coupled with certain materials offer a sleeker appeal With smaller case sizes coming into play watch brands are also looking to read dials However tjuosotflfieker cslelimanmeirn geasier I II III IIII V VI I RICHARD MILLE RM UP 01 FERRARI CREATED IN HONOR OF THE BRAND S PARTNERSHIP WITH FERRARI THE RM UP 01 IS THE THINNEST WATCH IN THE WORLD AT A REMARK ABLE 1 75MM HIGH SHOCKRESISTANCE IS GUARANTEED BY THE TRADITIONAL CONSTRUCTION OF A MOVEMENT FITTED INSIDE A TITANIUM CASE II BREGUET CLASSIQUE 7137 A MASTER OF GUILLOCHAGE BREGUE T GIVES A NEW FACE TO THE CL ASSIQUE 7137 IN WHITE GOLD A SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL RE VE ALS THE HAND DECOR ATED 502 3 E XTR A THIN MOVEMENT WITH AUTOMATIC WINDING IT OWES ITS SLIM PROFILE 3 65MM TO AN OPEN BARREL AND OFFSET ROTOR III CHOPARD L U C XPS 1860 OFFICER THE L U C XPS 1860 OFFICER HARBOURS A WEALTH OF SECRETS AND SYMBOLS ON ONE SIDE A HAND GUILLOCH HONEYCOMB PAT TERN DIAL IN 18K GOLD ON THE OTHER AN EQUALLY GUILLOCH OFFICER T YPE COVER THAT OPENS TO RE VE AL THE ULTR A THIN 3 3MM HIGH L U C 96 01 L MOVEMENT I I I I G R AN D S E I KO ELEGANCE COLLECTION SBGW295 110TH ANNIVERSARY TH IS ELEGANT RE CRE ATION OF THE FIRST GR AND SEI KO WATCH FROM 1960 FE ATURES AN EMBOSSED EXPRESSION OF MAKI E A TRADITIONAL TECHNIQUE OF DECORATING URUSHI LACQUER BY SPR I N K LI NG IT WITH PURE GOLD P OWDER THE CASE USES BR I LLIANT HARD TITANIUM WHICH MELDS LIGHTNESS WITH ROBUSTNESS V FREDERIQUE CONSTANT SLIMLINE MONOLITHIC MANUFACTURE FREDERIQUE CONSTANT UNVEILS A MAJOR TECHNOLOGICAL BREAKTHROUGH IN THE FORM OF THE MONOLITHIC OSCILLATOR ETCHED FROM A SILICON WAFER IT OPERATES AT 40 HZ TEN TIMES THE STANDARD RATE ITS REDUCED SIZE IS DESIGNED TO FIT INTO A TRADITIONAL MOVEMENT CONFIGURATION FOR SERIES PRODUCTION VI LONG IN E S MASTER COLLECTION 190TH ANNIVERSARY FOR ITS 190TH ANNIVERSARY IN 2022 LONGINES PRESENTED A SERIES OF EXCLUSIVE TIMEPIECES INCLUDING THIS ONE FROM THE LONGINES MASTER COLLECTION IN GOLD WITH A GRAINED ANTHRACITE DIAL MEASURING 40MM IN DIAMETER IT RUNS OFF AN EXCLUSIVE LONGINES CALIBER WITH A SILICON BALANCE SPRING

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29 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES The Italian way In the beginning was the Radiomir duly celebrated by Officine Panerai that most Swiss of Italian watchmakers founded in Florence over a century and a half ago JEAN MARC PONTROU CEO PANERAI The place is Florence the year is 1916 Guido Panerai is working in the family shop on Piazza San Giovanni on a radium based compound whose luminous properties literally outshine anything ever invented before There is of course a reason for Guido s experimentations The company his grandfather founded in 1860 had already made a name as a supplier of precision instruments to the Royal Italian Navy And Guido s invention which he called Radiomir was particularly suited to night sighting systems including on torpedo launchers This new substance would further strengthen ties between Panerai and the country s military forces Accordingly when the Italian Navy went in search of a dive watch that it could issue to its commando frogmen luminescence would be a key criterion and Panerai its first port of call An initial prototype was presented in 1935 Its name The Radiomir Already the Panerai we know was contained in a watch governed by the principles of functionality and performance that continue to guide the brand It was large to say the least with a case in three parts and a screw down back and crown for maximum water resistance The strap was attached to wire PANERAI RADIOMIR CALIFORNIA PANERAI PRESENTS ITS FIRST CALIFORNIA DIAL IN A 45MM DIAMETER CASE THIS RADIOMIR CALIFORNIA PAM01349 ALTERNATES ROMAN AND AR ABIC NUMER ALS WITH BAR INDICES MINUTES ARE SHOWN ON A RAILROAD TRACK THAT RUNS AROUND THE PERIPHERY OF THE DIAL PANER AI S BRUNITO FINISH FOR THE CASE IN ESTEELTM AN ALLOY MADE WITH 95 RECYCLED STEEL GIVES A UNIQUE WEATHERED EFFECT THE M ANUA L WI ND I NG P 5000 M OVEM ENT DELI VERS EI GHT DAYS OF POWER RESERVE lugs that were soldered to the case whose cushion shape better absorbed shocks Guido s luminous compound ensured the perfect legibility of this robust tool watch a vital piece of equipment for a military diver carrying out missions For many years Officine Panerai watches were military issue only until two events brought the brand into the public gaze One was the launch of three civilian collections in 1992 the other was a certain Sylvester Stallone s interest for Panerai watches which he discovered while shooting his 1996 movie Daylight in Rome Panerai stepped out of the shadows into the spotlight helped by Richemont which acquired the brand in 1997 Surgical precision I got a call from Richemont management asking if the name Panerai meant anything to me recalls the group s creative director Giampiero Bodino at the Watches and Wonders fair in Geneva It certainly did I was already a huge fan and started working on the Radiomir in exchange for a watch Giampiero Bodino was never tempted to make a clean sweep of the past With a surgeon s focus he instead introduced subtle changes to PANERAI RADIOMIR CALENDARIO ANNUALE GOLDTECHTM PANERAI HAS ENGINEERED ITS FIRST EVER ANNUAL CALENDAR A COMPLICATION THAT REQUIRES A SINGLE ADJUSTMENT OF THE DATE PER YE AR ESPECIALLY FOR THE R ADIOMIR COLLECTION ONE OF THE FEATURES THAT SETS THIS RADIOMIR CALENDARIO ANNUALE GOLDTECHTM APART IS THE DISPL AY OF THE MONTHS AROUND THE EDGE OF THE SANDWICH DIAL A FIXED ARROW AT 3 O CLOCK POINTS TO THE CURRENT MONTH ON A ROTATING DISC AT THE END OF EACH MONTH THE DISC JUMPS INSTANTANEOUSLY TO THE NE X T adapt Panerai s designs to the tastes and needs of the modern watch wearer forging a unity of style for a brand whose military past has become its greatest strength The models on show in Geneva are the proof starting with the Radiomir California and the Radiomir Otto Giorni whose case in eSteel which contains 95 recycled metal boasts a Brunito burnished finish achieved by physical vapour deposition then hand finished to give each watch its unique weathered appearance These vintage models take us back to the days of those early combat divers in a year which Panerai CEO Jean Marc Pontrou describes as steeped in history Elsewhere the brand is playing down its military heritage as it debuts its first annual calendar complication with two versions of the Radiomir Calendario Annuale one in GoldtechTM and one in PlatinumtechTM both proprietary alloys An instantaneous change month display features on a disc at the periphery of the dial Catering to smaller wrists the Radiomir Quaranta GoldtechTM takes its name from the Italian word for forty which is the watch s diameter in millimetres Incidentally the fifteen buyers of the Radiomir Calendario Annuale in platinum will be invited to Rome for a three day experience which this time will have them not jumping out of planes with spe cial forces but sampling the city s cultural delights in the company of a brand that has lost none of its Latin charm Eric Dumatin

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES Lessons from the past Ferdinand Berthoud was born in the Swiss town of Val de Travers but his future lay elsewhere in Paris where he arrived in 1745 A preco cious youth Berthoud s talent earned him the title of master watch maker at just 26 years of age Naturally a talent such as this must serve a magnum opus At a time when trading ships and scientific expeditions were setting sail with no reliable means of calculating longitude at sea Ferdinand Berthoud took up the challenge to build a precise and reliable marine chronometer The skill and scientific understanding he applied to the conception and making of marine timekeepers as well as pocket watches and which he committed to paper in numerous reference works would open the doors to the Royal Society in London Louis XV named him Horloger M canicien du Roi in 1770 In 2015 Chopard Co President Karl Friedrich Scheufele took it upon himself to revive the legacy of this great figure of the Enlightenment with mechanically and aesthetically refined contem porary watches whose construction references eighteenth century movements Entirely focused on precision the FB 3SPC is a perfect illustration Its technical and aesthetic foundations are borrowed from the N 26 decimal watch that was made by Ferdinand Berthoud s nephew Louis and which paved the way for high level watchmak ing inspired by marine chronometers For it the brand has developed a manual winding mechanical movement with an original construc tion that includes a balance wheel mounted with a cylindrical balance spring It took two years to make the precise adjustments required for the movement to obtain official chronometer rating Its construc tion is designed so that the three main components that are the bal ance pallet lever and escape wheel are clearly visible This FB 3SPC is entirely aligned with the brand s dedication to producing legible graphic and three dimensional movement architectures C R ELEGANCE WATCH YOUR TIME USA 30 down a watch is no easy feat creating a simply elegant classic watch can also be challenging Sometimes when less is more watch brands need to work harder to perfect the look For complicated watches this often means changing the way the complication is displayed on the dial For instance a chronograph or perpetual calendar with an inline display of information versus multiple subsidiary dials with arrows Sport is chic Even sport watches are appearing on the market in smaller case sizes and with elegant dials In fact earlier this year Chopard released its Alpine Eagle 41 XPS watch in stainless steel with a salmon dial for vintage yet ultrathin sporty appeal Even IWC long known for its oversized Portugieser watches turned to a classical look for its new Ingenieur Automatic 40 watches The new pieces inspired by the design created in the 1970s by the legendary Gerald Genta are all about ergonomics and fine finishings while still exuding sporty boldness A strong show of luxury sport watches among 2022 s new releases confirms this new love affair Divers dominated these new sports models From their original function as tool watches developed as of the 1950s they have rapidly conquered the heart of today s urban adventurers I II FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 3SPC THE MAINPLATE IS AT THE HEART OF CALIBER FB SPC ON THE DIAL SIDE A CLOSE KNIT ARR AY OF SIX BRIDGES IS DIRECTLY INSPIRED BY THE WORK OF LOUIS BERTHOUD THEY ARE ECHOED ON THE BACK BY TEN OTHER BRIDGES THE TIME DISPL AY IS PARED DOWN TO THE ABSOLUTE MINIMUM COMPLETED BY A POWER RESERVE INDICATOR THE REST OF THE DIAL EXPOSES THE MOVEMENT WHOSE SURFACES ALTERNATE BETWEEN CHAMFERED AND POLISHED BEVELS AND THE MATTE FINISH OBTAINED BY FINE SANDBLASTING ALTHOUGH COMPLEX IN CONSTRUCTION THE ARCHITECTURE OF THE MOVEMENT IS MINIMALIST IN APPEARANCE THE BALANCE BRIDGE WITH ITS DISTINCTIVE SCREW IN HEEL SHAPE IS A HISTORICAL REFERENCE TO FERDINAND BERTHOUD S N 3 ASTRONOMICAL WATCH POSITIONED AT 12 O CLOCK THE BARREL BRIDGE SPANNING A WIDE 120 DEGREE ANGLE RECALLS A BRIDGE ON THE N 2575 QUARTER REPEATER WATCH BY LOUIS BERTHOUD III IIII I BULOVA JET STAR STR AIGHT FROM THE 1970S COMES THIS BULOVA 1973 JET STAR F AN ICONIC MODEL FROM THE BR ANDS IMPRESSIVE HISTORY BORROWING FROM ITS HISTORIC FOREBEAR THE STAINLESS STEEL CASE FEATURES A STRIKING ANGULAR DESIGN WITH BROAD FACETS AND A DOMED SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL THE JET STAR IS POWERED BY BULOVA S PRECISIONIST QUARTZ MOVEMENT II CITIZEN SERIE 8 GMT CITIZEN WATCH REVEALS THIS NEW MODEL INSPIRED BY AUTUMN HUES IN JAPAN UNDER ITS SERIES 8 COLLECTION OF MECHANICAL WATCHES THAT COMBINE PRACTICALITY AND FUNCTIONALITY WITH MODERN DESIGNS THIS NEW 880 MECHANICAL MODEL FEATURES STRIKING GOLD COLORS AND IS EQUIPPED WITH A GMT FUNCTION AND MAGNETIC RESISTANCE I I I TAG H E U E R CARRER A DATE 36MM FOR ENHANCED WE AR ABILIT Y TAG HEUER HAS RETHOUGHT THE PROPORTIONS OF THE CARRERA DATE SHAVING 2MM OFF THE CASE COMPARED WITH THE PREVIOUS EDITION TO ACHIEVE AN OVER ALL THICKNESS OF 10MM A SMALL DIFFERENCE BUT A HUGE IMPACT ON THE WATCH S VISUAL PROFILE AND COMFORT ON THE WRIST IIII PANER AI LUMINOR DUE 38MM SMALLER AND LIGHTER WITH A PARED BACK AESTHETIC THE 38MM LUMINOR DUE WATCHES RETAIN ALL THE MECHANICAL PRECISION OF THEIR PREDECESSORS IN THE AUTOMATIC P 900 CALIBER THE PERFECT WATCH FOR THE EVERYDAY CIT Y LIVING WARDROBE

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31 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES Under one roof Rome is everywhere at Bvlgari engraved on the bezel of its watches built into their cases ingrained into its art of living With the firm intention that it should become a symbol of Swiss high horology Founded on the banks of the Tiber almost a century and a half ago Bvlgari is as Roman as the Colosseum itself Its creativity is a celebration of the Eternal City its lifestyle and treasures An exuberance at odds with Switzerland and its rigorous efficiency Far from it Bvlgari s watches have gained presence and substance without ever departing from their Roman origins They are a Latin declension of watchmaking grammar which is a feat in itself The acquisition in 2000 of the Roth and Genta manufactories in Le Sentier Switzerland has certainly contributed to this although the Roman firm had already expanded into watchmaking The first documented timepiece by Bvlgari is a jewellery watch made in 1918 Then came a future icon the Serpenti Tubogas introduced in 1948 and which this year celebrates its 75th anniversary The Bvlgari Bvlgari launched in 1975 was the first model not to be lavished with gems The catalogue was extended in 1998 with the release of the Bvlgari Aluminium However Bvlgari s watchmaking would really take off in the 2000s as the takeover of Roth and Genta coincided with a policy of vertical integration The brand had grand designs for its watch business and wanted to be certain it pos BVLGARI OCTO ROMA PRECIOUS NATURALIA THE OCTO ROMA S GENEROUS FORMS CAN HOUSE ANY NUMBER OF COMPLICATIONS WHICH MAKES IT THE IDEAL SHOWCASE FOR BVLGARI S EXPERTISE AS A MAKER OF COMPLEX MECHANISMS DEMONSTR ATED HERE BY A FLYING TOURBILLON THIS OCTO ROMA PRECIOUS NATURALIA LIVES UP TO ITS VOCATION TO REMIND US OF ALL THAT IS PRECIOUS IN THE NATURAL WORLD WITH EQUAL PARTS OF AESTHETIC BEAUTY AND MECHANICAL EXCELLENCE THE VISIBLE PLATE SHOWS OFF THE WARM AMBER sessed the industrial independence needed to bring these ideas to fruition In the scope of some ten years Bvlgari grew into a full fledged Manufacture It now employs 400 people across its three sites Music to the ears Bvlgari continues to deliver the proof of the expertise at work across all its sites and particularly the workshops in Le Sentier where a glass fronted production facility now adjoins the original building For anyone whose memory of all things horological stretches back more than two decades the names Daniel Roth and G rald Genta conjure up respectively a master of mechanical movements and the inspired designer of some of the twentieth century s most recognisable watches including the Bvlgari Bvlgari The Italian firm cultivates this fabulous heritage with an inimitable Roman touch exemplified by such memorable collections as the Octo Roma and the Octo Finissimo A visit to Le Sentier brings it all to life It s here that some one hundred people work on the brand s most complex pieces not least the movements that have earned Bvlgari eight world records for thinness movements such as Caliber BVL 100 a diminutive round AND CHESTNUT SHADES OF TIGER S EYE SLIVERS OF THIS GEMSTONE TENTHS OF A MILLIMETRE THICK ARE SET ON E ACH OF THE 12 INDICES BVLG ARI SERPENTI 75TH ANNIVERSARY SINCE THE VERY FIRST SERPENTI TUBOGAS JEWELLERY WATCHES IN 1948 THE SERPENTI HAS TAKEN ENDLESS FORMS EMBRACED BY WOMEN AS A SYMBOL OF EMPOWERMENT THROUGHOUT ITS 75 YEARS THIS EVER EVOLVING MOTIF HAS RETURNED IN MULTIPLE ITERATIONS AND CONFIRMS ITS ENDURING ATTRACTION WITH EACH NEW APPEARANCE movement measuring 12 3 mm in diameter and 2 5 mm high or Caliber BVL 150 the smallest tour billon movement on the market Not forgetting the intricate chiming mechanisms that sound the time on two three even four gongs in the case of the Grande Sonnerie Perpetual Calendar Composed of more than 1 200 components this remarkable watch is a compendium of the brand s capabilities in ultra complicated timepieces Everything is done here in Vall e de Joux at the heart of the grand Swiss watchmaking tradition Components are made to micrometric tolerances using automatic lathes CNC machines and wire erosion before being decorated and assembled to plans drawn up by the engineering studio which is responsible for all research and development Naturally these few lines cannot do justice to these multiple tasks which must be seen to be appreci ated Watchmaking is a world of the infinitely small and its codes are a closed book to whomever hasn t witnessed first hand the assembly and finishing of a watch movement a masterpiece of mechanical engineering But not only A detour via the workshop where Bvlgari s chiming watches are crafted leaves no doubt as to the musical competencies they require Each one is the work of a single watchmaker who not only assembles and adjusts the movement but also fine tunes the chiming mechanism for purity pitch and tone The most complex will spend six months in his or her care Then again Rome wasn t built in a day Christophe Roulet

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES Beating heart FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 32 In the 35 years since it was founded Frederique Constant has shown that with determination and innovation the wildest dreams can come true Did they have any idea how crazy their project was When Aletta and Peter Stas started the Frederique Constant brand in Geneva in 1988 the cards were stacked against them First of all the market had been flooded with quartz watches with little added value Secondly they were both completely new to the industry with no experience in watches Thirdly the couple are Dutch and were living in Hong Kong Undeterred Aletta and Peter Stas remained convinced there was a window for quality timepieces that were respectful of tradition and accessibly priced a vision they would materialize through Frederique Constant Crazy or not their minds were made up It would take Frederique Constant four years to develop its first range Appropriately named the 18th Century Collection it featured mechanical watches with an elegant classic aesthetic at affordable price points Already the hallmarks of a Frederique Constant watch could be seen in this debut range and have never varied simply embracing the innovation that would underpin the brand s success For example Frederique Constant became the first brand to reveal the heart of the mechanical movement through an aperture in the dial at 12 o clock This view of the regulating organ composed of the balance and balance spring became the signature attribute of the Heart Beat collection introduced FREDERIQUE CONSTANT CALIBER FC 810 MONOLITHIC MANUFACTURE WITH THIS CALIBER FREDERIQUE CONSTANT IS UNVEILING A MAJOR TECHNOLOGICAL ADVANCE IN THE FIELD OF PRECISION CHRONOMETRY REDEFINING THE REGUL ATION PRINCIPLE OF MECHANICAL WATCHES THIS 40 HZ MOVEMENT OFFERS A FREQUENCY TEN TIMES HIGHER THAN THAT OF MOST MECHANICAL MOVEMENTS ITS MONOBLOC SILICON OSCILLATOR PROVIDES A SOLUTION TO SOME OF THE MAIN WEAKNESSES OF MECHANICAL WATCHES in 1994 The following year it appeared on ladies models this time in the shape of a heart But the best was yet to come the Stas were determined that Frederique Constant should become an integrated Manufacture with its own production capacity This strategy took shape with the opening in 2006 of a purpose built factory on the outskirts of Geneva that would be extended in 2019 35 years and 31 movements Building on this production capacity in 2004 in time for the Heart Beat s tenth anniversary Frederique Constant unveiled the FC 910 the first in a long line of in house movements In barely 20 years the brand accomplished the exploit of designing and manufacturing a remarkable 30 movements using tradition as its foundation but never shying away from innovation This progressive approach has always been a driving force for the brand one of the first to incorporate silicon technology into its movements with the release in 2008 of the FC 980 tourbillon caliber with a silicon lever and escape wheel Complications would follow including a Worldtimer perpetual calendar moon phases and flyback chronograph The masterstroke came in 2021 with the unveiling of the FC 810 caliber which transformed the function FREDERIQUE CONSTANT CLASSIC TOURBILLON MANUFACTURE IN CELEBR ATION OF ITS 35TH ANNIVERSARY FREDERIQUE CONSTANT IS UNVEILING A NEW INTERPRETATION OF ITS CLASSIC TOURBILLON MANUFACTURE FIRST PRESENTED IN 2008 WITH ITS FC 980 MOVEMENT ONE OF THE VERY FIRST CALIBERS TO FEATURE A SILICON ESCAPEMENT WHEEL AND LEVER THIS NEW EDITION LIMITED TO 150 PIECES COMES IN AN 18 CAR AT PINK GOLD CASE MEASURING JUST 39 MM ing of the escapement unchanged for the past two hundred years Rather than the usual 26 components of a Swiss lever escapement Frederique Constant developed a revolutionary oscillator made from a single silicon wafer This Monolithic regulator represents a huge technological breakthrough At 40 Hz it beats ten times faster than the escapement at the heart of most mechanical movements and benefits from a full 80 hours of power reserve Marking the occasion of its thirty fifth anniversary the brand has released its Tourbillon Manufacture in a resolutely contemporary execution The tourbillon in question Caliber FC 980 comes here in its finest watchmaking livery three hands housed in a 39 mm 18K rose gold case In its turn the dial of the Classic Tourbillon Meteorite Manufacture is dressed in Gibeon Meteorite from Namibia It fell to Earth in prehistoric times and was named after the nearby town of Gibeon Truthful to its innovative spirit Frederique Constant also adds a new dimension to its Manufacture collection with the new Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture equipped with the FC 735 caliber the brand s 31st in house movement Cased in steel it strikes a perfect balance between displays for the large date moon phases and 50 hour power reserve Thirty five years and counting Christophe Roulet FREDERIQUE CONSTANT CLASSIC POWER RESERVE BIG DATE MANUFACTURE TRUE TO ITS SPIRIT OF INNOVATION FREDERIQUE CONSTANT IS ADDING A NEW DIMENSION TO ITS MANUFACTURE COLLECTION WITH THE NEW CLASSIC POWER RESERVE BIG DATE MANUFACTURE EQUIPPED WITH THE FC 735 CALIBER THE BR AND S 31ST IN HOUSE MOVEMENT HOUSED IN A 40 MM STEEL CASE THIS NEW CRE ATION FE ATURES A SUNR AY BLUE DIAL ENHANCED BY APPLIED HOUR MARKERS AND HAND POLISHED SILVERED HANDS

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 36 Master of the deep Blancpain is leading a year long celebration of the 70th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms The first modern dive watch it represents the brand s commitment to ocean conservation If ever there were a compendium of every timepiece ever made a Big Book of Watches there would be a chapter for the Fifty Fathoms The first modern dive watch it was launched 70 years ago at a time when divers had yet to benefit from a dependable purpose built instrument The potentially fatal consequences of having no reliable means of tracking time underwater were brought home to Jean Jacques Fiechter director of Blancpain and an experienced diver when he ran out of air during a dive Determined to minimize the risks associated with his favorite sport Fiechter began sketching the outlines of a dive watch and listing the criteria such an instrument must fulfil in order to operate in a hostile environment Blancpain went on to file three patents for three major innovations regarding the bezel the case and the crown With its water resistance robust doubled sealed crown self winding movement contrasting dark dial with luminescent indications unidirectional rotating bezel and anti magnetic protection the Fifty Fathoms became an indispensable instrument for elite divers on their underwater missions notes the brand Numerous countries would issue this new watch to their special forces including the French Elite Diving Corps and the United States Navy SEALs The civilian version was quickly taken up by amateur divers A mainstay of Blancpain When Marc A Hayek took over as President and CEO of Blancpain in 2002 the Fifty Fathoms already possessed the attributes that had taken it through the decades as the archetypal dive watch Better still Hayek is an avid scuba diver himself who would not only reawaken the model within the brand s collections he gave the Fifty Fathoms the job of representing Blancpain s pioneering commitment to ocean preservation The Fifty Fathoms is one of the brand s three pillars hence the importance of these two anniversaries that of the original 1953 watch and the twentieth anniversary of BLANCPAIN FIF T Y FATHOMS TECH GOMBESSA FEATURING A PATENTED INNOVATION CO DEVELOPED BY MARC A HAYEK AND L AURENT BALLESTA THE TECH GOMBESSA IS THE FIRST TIMEPIECE CAPABLE OF MEASURING IMMERSIONS OF UP TO THREE HOURS THIS MODEL MEETS THE MOST STRINGENT REQUIREMENTS OF THE GOMBESSA EXPEDITIONS DIVERS WHO PERFORM LONG DURATION DEEP DIVES the contemporary version They are an opportunity to illustrate the technical advances introduced to the Fifty Fathoms while staying close to the design and style of the original but also to insist on the vital need to take steps to preserve the ocean s health This question which is intimately linked to climate change is at the heart of our action This year long celebration has been designed as a series of acts The first took the form of a Fifty Fathoms in three limited editions of 70 pieces each in an exclusive 42mm diameter Water resistant to 300 meters with a black sunburst dial similar to the 2003 model it features luminescent hands and block type hour markers The unidirectional bezel includes a scratch resistant domed sapphire inlay The movement here is the robust Caliber 1315 whose three barrels provide five days of power reserve The balance spring is made from anti magnetic silicon Act 2 would be more of a BL ANCPAIN FIF T Y FATHOMS 70TH ANNIVERSARY ACT 1 70 YE ARS AFTER THE RELEASE OF THE FIRST FIFTY FATHOMS AND 20 YEARS AFTER THE LAUNCH OF THE CONTEMPORARY ANNIVERSARY TIMEPIECE BLANCPAIN STARTED A YEAR OF CELEBRATIONS WITH A DEDICATED NEW MODEL FEATURING AN EXCLUSIVE 42 MM DIAMETER THIS WATCH IS COMPOSED OF THREE 70 PIECE LIMITED SERIES

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37 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES MARC A HAYEK PRESIDENT AND CEO B L A N C PA I N surprise The Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 2 Tech Gombessa is the first dive watch capable of measuring longer tech dives of up to three hours The unidirectional bezel with a ceramic inlay is graduated for three hours It connects to an additional hand driven by Caliber 13P8 with a five day power reserve that makes one full rotation in those three hours For legibility the dial has been given an absolute black finish that absorbs close to 97 of light Waterresistant to 300 meters and equipped with a helium valve the case is in grade 23 titanium which is the purest and hardest there is The strap is screwed to central lugs that are integrated into the caseband Discover the underwater world This watch the first in the Tech line of Fifty Fathoms alongside the more lifestyle Bathyscaphe and evolutions of the original model was jointly developed by Marc A Hayek and the diver photographer and marine biologist Laurent Ballesta His Gombessa project which Blancpain has supported since 2013 studies some of the rarest and most elusive marine creatures and phenomena on Earth Laurent Ballesta and I share the same passion for deep sea diving Marc A Hayek continues We wanted to develop a mechanical instrument that could be used during long duration saturation dives with a closed circuit rebreather an instrument that would need a helium valve This would prove to be a multi year project that began in 2019 and which really took shape with the test phases for the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa during the Gombessa V VI and Tamataroa expeditions The latter studies the behavior of the great hammerhead shark in French Polynesia The result is the first mechanical dive watch of its kind and should be greeted as a success By reinforcing diver safety it contributes to the development of this sport and to the discovery of the ocean world The activities of Laurent Ballesta and the Gombessa divers are marked by triple challenges of a technical scientific and artistic nature Each of the missions undertaken to date including six Gombessa expeditions has benefited from Blancpain s support cementing a partnership between Man and sea We will of course continue our commitment to ocean preservation Marc A Hayek assures us Blancpain has entered into a number of partnerships such as with PADI and the Adopt the Blue initiative with the objective of creat ing the largest network of marine protected areas in the world As partner to Pristine Seas twelve Blancpain supported expeditions have resulted in governmental decrees which have doubled the amount of environmentally protected ocean an additional 4 7 million square kilometers Blancpain is also founding partner of The Economist s World Ocean Summit Initiative And these are just three examples among many Without wanting to overstate our role I believe our action creates greater awareness of a problem that concerns every single one of us If the anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms can help further that cause we will have reached our objective to use science in all its forms for the benefit of the planet And if that includes introducing people to the beauty of the ocean so much the better Eric Dumatin BLANCPAIN FIF T Y FATHOMS 70TH ANNIVERSARY ACT 3 THIS MODEL IS COMMEMORATING BLANCPAIN S INVENTION OF THE MODERN DIVING WATCH WATER RESISTANT TO 30 BAR THIS ANNIVERSARY EDITION LIMITED TO 555 PIECES FE ATURES A 41 30 MM CASE IN A PATENTED 9K BRONZE GOLD ALLOY AND A DIAL WITH A MOISTURE INDICATOR THAT CHANGES FROM WHITE TO RED TO ALERT THE WEARER TO ANY HUMIDITY SEEPING INTO THE CASE

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39 WATCH YOUR TIME USA MATERIALS SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES o vincent daveau Hyper materials Watchmakers are deploying innovative high tech materials that satisfy customers desire for ever greater exclusivity The first to show an engineer s mindset and consider watchmaking through the lens of science were the chronometer makers of the eighteenth century They experimented with alloys as well as materials such as glass platinum mercury wood even diamond in an attempt to improve timekeeping precision and protect mechanisms from corrosion The real materials revolution however came much later in the 1930s and coincided with the watch s migration from pocket to wrist Stainless steel cases minimized skin reactions caused by contact with allergen metals At the same time brands trialled new lubricants and discovered the benefits of synthetic jewels Cases were designed to better protect movements that were more exposed to humidity shocks and magnetic fields still the enemy of a mechanical watch And the list goes on with balance wheels in beryllium bronze and balance springs made from alloys whose compositions are among the industry s best kept secrets The balance and balance spring remain the subject of intense scientific research Swatch Group and Audemars Piguet collaborated on research into titanium subsequent to which in 2017 Swatch Group announced the debut of balance springs in NivachronTM Protected by four patents this titanium alloy provides considerably improved resistance to magnetic fields the Genius is the farthest extreme of the practical Jean Cocteau 1889 1963 reason countless watches find themselves back at after sales service Developments such as this could be brushed aside as minor advances except they concern components the balance and spring that are critical to the watch s functioning Dive watches are a case in point The ISO 6425 standard stipulates that a dive watch must withstand a magnetic field of 4 800 ampere metre or 60 gauss which is roughly the strength of a fridge magnet In Japan Seiko and Grand Seiko manufacture balance springs in Spron a proprietary nickel cobalt alloy Rolex has Parachrom a paramagnetic alloy of niobium zirconium and oxygen The brand with the coronet also equips certain of its movements with silicon oxide balance springs a material developed in partnership with Patek Philippe and Swatch Group Si fiction The silicon balance spring whose patent entered the public domain in November 2022 after the first applications by Ulysse Nardin some fifteen years previously is a potential gamechanger for mechanical movement production Determined to stay in the game Swatch Group via the Omega Speedmaster Pro Racing recently introduced a new type of silicon balance spring in the SpirateTMSystem which gains a tiny 0 to 2 seconds per day No other seriesproduced movement attains such a level of precision Using only mechanical means Omega comes within a whisker of Grand Seiko s unique Spring Drive movement a technology that combines the high torque of a mechanical watch with an electronic watch s precision regulation by an integrated circuit As the twentieth century drew to a close another revolutionary technology quartz almost wiped out an industry entrenched in tradition But mechanical movements hadn t said their last word and made a spectacular comeback as luxury timepieces Anxious to protect these mechanical marvels the result of unique expertise from physical or aesthetic alteration brands began to make those components most at risk from materials that would withstand outside aggressions Synthetic corundum is one example Produced using the Verneuil flame fusion process discovered in 1900 synthetic ruby makes better quality movement jewels while synthetic sapphire gives tougher crystals to protect the watch s dial Jaeger LeCoultre s Reverso Dame was fRiroslet xtobebgeannetfoite qinui1p9w3a1tc hInesthineitesaPrrlyo 1980s BLANCPAIN FIFTY FATHOMS BATHYSCAPHE CHRONOGRAPHE FLYBACK THE GRADE 23 TITANIUM ITERATION OF THE MODEL OPTS FOR DISCRETION WITH ITS ANTHRACITE DIAL RECENTLY INTRODUCED INTO ITS COLLECTIONS BY BLANCPAIN GRADE 23 TITANIUM IS THE PUREST TYPE OF TITANIUM AVAIL ABLE IT NOTABLY CONTAINS LESS OXYGEN THAN THE STANDARD TITANIUM USED IN WATCHMAKING THIS REDUCTION IN THE AMOUNT OF OX YGEN I M PROVES THE M E TA L S RESISTANCE TO BREAK AGE AND CORROSION

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES MATERIALS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 40 fessionnelle line with robust sapphire crystals gradually extending this technology to all its collections Forever beautiful By the 1990s the majority of Rolex s competitors had adopted synthetic sapphire some in more original ways than others Blancpain uses a sapphire crystal insert for the rotating bezel on certain Fifty Fathoms while Chopard with great imagination machines the crystal and gongs of its most sophisticated striking watches from a single block of sapphire Through time and money spent on research certain brands are now able to machine sapphire to make cases Richard Mille is at the forefront of this technology They have also invested in the complex processes required to transform clear sapphire into colored sapphire one of the main dif ficulties being to achieve uniform density of color This year Louis Vuitton is introducing the Tambour Moon Tourbillon Volant Poin on de Gen ve with a case in vivid yellow or green sapphire Hublot one of the first brands to offer sapphire cases is launching a Big Bang SAXEM a high tech alloy of aluminium oxide with rare earth elements proposed in on trend neon colors Transparent ceramic made an appearance on Cartier s ID Two concept watch revealed in 2012 Now Ulysse Nardin is using it for the glass of its Diver Net also a concept watch This virtually inalterable material has practically the same properties as sapphire at a significantly lower production cost As an alternative to sapphire ceramic looks set for a bright future among consumers who want their watch to retain its fresh out of the box appearance and therefore value Ceramic is currently used to produce cases crystals and bezel inserts including for the latter bi colored ceramic This chromatic development has also been seen on the case of certain Chanel J12 watches most recently on the J12 Cybernetic whose case explores a pixelated design in a combination of black and white ceramic Signature alloys In a world that values uniqueness and differentia tion proprietary materials are a way of standing out from the crowd Rolex understood this early on becoming the first brand to switch from 316L to 904L stainless steel in the mid 1980s Rolex refers to the alloy which is harder and more resis tant to corrosion as Oystersteel The idea of materials as a USP has made inroads within using I II III IIII V VI I ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL GMT MASTER II ROLEX INTRODUCES A NEW EXECUTION OF THE GMT MASTER II IN YELLOW ROLESOR A COMBINATION OF OYSTERSTEEL AND YELLOW GOLD WITH A GREY AND BLACK MONOBLOC CERACHROM BEZEL INSERT CALIBER 3285 DRIVES HOURS MINUTES SECONDS DATE AND A SECOND TIME ZONE WITH A 24 HOUR DISPL AY II HUBLOT BIG BANG TOURBILLON AUTOMATIC YELLOW NEON SAXEM HUBLOT CONTINUES ITS EXPLORATION OF SAXEM AN ALLOY OF ALUMINIUM OXIDE AND RARE EARTH ELEMENTS TO OBTAIN AN UNPRECEDENTED YELLOW NEON COLOR THIS ULTR A RESISTANT M ATER I A L PR E V I OUS LY SEEN ON THE B I G BANG M P 11 HAS A BR I LLIANCE GREATER THAN THAT OF SAPPHIRE III LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR MOON FLYING TOURBILLON POIN ON DE GEN VE THE CASE OF THIS TAMBOUR MOON IS CRAFTED FROM A BLOCK OF SAPPHIRE AND IS THE FIRST OF ITS KIND IN THE HISTORY OF WATCHMAKING TO BE HALLMARKED POIN ON DE GEN VE THIS COMPLE TELY TR ANSPARENT CREATION DISPL AYS IN MINUTE DETAIL EVERY PART OF ITS IN HOUSE OPENWORKED MOVEMENT WITH A FLYING TOURBILLON IIII R ADO DIASTAR ORIGINAL IN 2022 R ADO CELEBR ATED THE DIASTAR S 60TH ANNIVERSARY WITH NEW MODELS FEATURING COLORED DIALS THAT ARE DRIVEN BY AN AUTOMATIC DAY DATE MOVEMENT OFFERING 80 HOURS OF POWER RESERVE THE BROAD BEZEL IS IN CER AMOS AN ALLOY OF 90 HIGH TECH CER AMIC WITH 10 ME TAL ALLOY WHICH COMBINES HARDNESS WITH LUSTRE V TAG HEUER CARRERA PLASMA DIAMANT D AVANT GARDE CHRONOGRAPH TOURBILLON IN 2022 TAG HEUER PRESENTED A CHRONOGRAPH ENCRUSTED WITH LAB GROWN DIAMONDS IT RETURNS WITH THIS 44MM MODEL WHOSE CASE BEZEL AND BRACELET ARE MADE FROM MATTE BLACK SANDBLASTED ANODIZED ALUMINIUM ITS SURFACE IS SET WITH LAB GROWN DIAMONDS IN DIFFERENT SHAPES FOR A TOTA L 7 1 CAR ATS VI MONTBL ANC 1858 ICED SEA AUTOMATIC DATE THE FROZEN TE XTURE ON THE GREEN DIAL OF THIS ICED SEA AUTOMATIC DATE REPRODUCES THE FRAGMENTED NATURE OF GLACIAL ICE HAND EXECUTED USING AN ALMOST FORGOTTEN TECHNIQUE KNOWN AS GRATT BOIS IT CREATES AN IMPRESSION OF DEPTH AND LUMINOSIT Y

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES In great shape Alpina is celebrating its 140th anniversary with an unusually classic timepiece from a brand that is better known for watches that are built to endure life in the great outdoors The starting point for this com memorative edition was Caliber 490 a shaped movement released in 1938 Alpina has located enough examples of this caliber to pro duce two limited editions of 14 pieces each which it has named the Heritage Carr e Mechanical 140 Years These authentic manual winding movements which have a frequency of 2 5 Hz or 18 000 vibra tions hour are housed in a rectangular silver case typical of early twentieth century form watches The black dial version features a round small seconds subdial while the silver dial version has rectan gular small seconds Both versions have a railroad minute scale with radial indices and luminescent Arabic hour numerals Completing this vintage tableau to perfection is an ostrich leather strap Established in 1883 by Gottlieb Hauser a watchmaker and seller in Winterthur Switzerland Alpina originated as a corporation of Swiss manufacturers Hauser and his associates operated in a way similar to that of the eighteenth century tablisseurs assembling components which they bought in from independent manufacturers Activity quickly expanded and from 1901 Alpina was making its own movements of superior quality Alpina also grew geographically In addition to fac tories in Switzerland it opened a branch in Glash tte the home of German watchmaking where production focused on sports watches The first of these introduced in 1933 was the Blockuhr in steel It laid the foundations for the Alpina 4 Released in 1938 it demonstrated the four most important characteristics of a sports watch namely to be water resistant anti shock anti magnetic and in stainless steel This spirit of adventure continues through Alpina s present day Alpiner land Startimer air and Seastrong sea collections equipped with in house automatic movements E D MATERIALS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 42 the industry As a brand attuned to issues surrounding the sourcing of precious stones and precious metals Chopard has committed to using only ethical gold part of its journey to sustainable luxury When it unveiled its Alpine Eagle collection in 2019 it also introduced the world to Lucent SteelTM a proprietary alloy that contains a high proportion of recycled metal Hublot meanwhile has developed its own King Gold and Magic Gold alloys Cases in 18k Magic Gold a mix of gold with ceramic are virtually impossible to scratch Other brands have been even more radical in their approach Panerai s Laboratorio di Idee has developed BMG TechTM a bulk metallic glass so hard that watches made from it are pretty much anything proof Other brands have focused on ceramized aluminium while Omega opts for LiquidmetalTM an amorphous metal alloy with high tensile strength Developed by researchers at The California Institute of Technology Omega uses it for certain components in its dive watches Which leaves carbon composites Borrowed from Formula 1 and competitive sailing carbon has become a sexy material in watchmaking adopted and developed by prestigious names such as Richard Mille Panerai and Audemars Piguet But not only As carbon enters the mainstream and appears on watches lower down the price scale R D departments are working on materials that are even more exclusive a concept close to luxury s heart I II ALPINA ALPINER HERITAGE CARR E MECHANICAL 140 YE ARS ALRE ADY I N 1938 CALI BER 490 EMBODIED ALPINA S EMERGING VISION IT FEATURES A PATENTED CROWN THAT PROTECTS AGAINST DUST A KE Y DE VELOPM ENT AS IT MADE THE CASE AIRTIGHT A FIRST STEP ON THE WAY TO THE WATERTIGHT CASE THAT WOULD LATER BECOME STANDARD THE MOVEMENT PROTECTED BY SWISS PATENT NUMBER 158882 HAS A SIMPLE ROBUST CONSTRUCTION BUT IS NO LESS PERFECTLY FINISHED ALL ITS COMPONENTS ARE BE VELLED AND THE RATCHET IS SUN BRUSHED THIS IS A GENUINE IN HOUSE CALIBER DESIGNED ASSEMBLED AND FINISHED BY ONE OF THE FIRMS IN THE UNION HORLOG RE ALPINA S ORIGINAL ENTITY A PARTICUL ARIT Y SELDOM SEEN IN THE 1930S WHEN GENERIC BAUCHES MOVEMENT BLANKS WERE THE NORM AND MANUFACTURE MOVEMENTS THE EXCEPTION III IIII I GRAND SEIKO EVOLUTION 9 SPRING DRIVE 5 DAYS HIGH INTENSIT Y TITANIUM LAKE SUWA THE DIAL OF THIS MODEL E VOKES THE UNIQUELY JAPANESE BE AUT Y OF THE VERY PLACES WHERE ITS WATCHES ARE MADE THE DIAL OF THIS SLGA019 IS A PERFECT E X AMPLE IT MANIFESTS DIFFERENT BLUES AS WHEN A BREEZE STIRS THE SURFACE OF LAKE SUWA II PANER AI SUBMERSIBLE QUARANTAQUAT TRO CARBOTECHTM THIS MODEL COMES WITH A CARBOTECHTM CASE A DLC COATED TITANIUM CROWN AND AN ABYSS BLUE DIAL CARBOTECHTM IS MADE FROM THIN SHEETS OF CARBON FIBRES WHICH ARE COMPRESSED AT A CONTROLLED TEMPERATURE UNDER HIGH PRESSURE TOGETHER WITH A HIGH END POLYMER THAT BINDS THE COMPOSITE MATERIAL III CITIZEN ECO DRIVE 365 IN AN ERA OF ENVIRONMENTAL CHANGE CITIZEN WATCH AIMS TO OFFER AN EVEN MORE ENJOYABLE EXPERIENCE OF TIME CITIZEN HAS DEVELOPED THE NEW CALIBER E365 ECO DRIVE MOVEMENT FEATURING A RUNNING TIME OF 365 DAYS ON A FULL CHARGE THIS MODEL OFFERS FRESH NEW INTERPRETATIONS OF DESIGNS FROM THE CITIZEN DESIGN ARCHIVE IIII ACCUTRON ASTRONAUT ACCUTRON BRINGS BACK THE 1968 T VERSION OF THE ASTRONAUT MODEL FE ATURING A DISTINCTIVE DAY NIGHT BEZEL THE MODEL IS SWISS M ADE AVAI L AB LE I N A 41M M STAI N LESS STEEL CASE WITH A MATCHING BRACELET INCLUDING SUPERLUMINOVA AND A PARTIAL EXHIBITION CASE BACK POWERED BY AN SW330 MECHANICAL GMT MOVEMENT

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43 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES World first A year after the Kodo its first mechanical complication introduced in 2022 Grand Seiko returns with its first mechanical automatic chronograph It s becoming a habit Each crop of new watches from Grand Seiko brings its share of stand out pieces Already last year the Japanese watchmaker impressed with the Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon The brand s first mechanical complication it took home the Chronometry Prize at the Grand Prix d Horlogerie de Gen ve 2022 This year speaking at the Watches and Wonders Geneva fair Akio Naito President of Seiko Watch Corp took visible pride in unveiling another remarkable mechanical watch which he described as possibly more important even than the Kodo and perfectly aligned with our collections which since 1960 have been entirely dedicated to precision timekeeping The good people at Grand Seiko have named this latest creation with an acronym one that neatly describes the characteristics of a watch that runs at 10 beats per second Ten delivers three days of power reserve t for three has automatic winding a and incorporates a chronograph graph Thus Akio Naito lifted the veil on the Tentagraph Grand Seiko s first mechanical chronograph To say that a chronograph is more important than a watch that combines a tourbillon and a constantforce mechanism as one unit on a single axis an unprecedented achievement could seem slightly presumptuous at first On reflection the remark seems justified The Kodo exists as a limited edition of 20 watches each assembled and adjusted by hand Of course the care afforded to such a small and mechanically complex series cannot reasonably be compared to that given to a watch intended for large scale production The Tentagraph however is at the forefront of Grand Seiko s collections and as such is also assembled and adjusted by hand as part of a scenario that leaves no room for error This means problems are ironed out upstream anticipated as of the design stage and resolved where necessary at the prototype stage so that the assembly process becomes as smooth as possible All in a day s work for Grand Seiko a fully integrated manufacturer and heir to a legacy that stretches back 110 years to 1913 when the Laurel became the first Japanese made wristwatch Precision and reliability Whereas the Laurel was created from the ground up the watchmakers behind the Tentagraph had an important asset at their disposal Caliber 9SA5 Introduced in 2020 this next generation high beat movement is probably one of the best series produced calibres available It is the basis for the Tentagraph s 9SC5 chronograph calibre which possesses the same inherent qualities of precision autonomy and reliability Precision thanks to the ten beats per second required to measure tenths of a second G R AND SE IKO EVOLUTION 9 COLLECTION TENTAGR APH SLGC001 EVERY TENTAGR APH MOVEMENT IS TESTED ACROSS 20 DAYS TO ENSURE A ME AN DAILY R ATE OF 3 TO 5 SECONDS THE DIAL FE ATURES GR AND SEIKO S SIGNATURE MT IWATE PATTERN INSPIRED BY THE RIDGED CONTOURS OF THE MOUNTAIN BEYOND THE WINDOWS OF THE GRAND SEIKO STUDIO SHIZUKUISHI WHERE THE TENTAGRAPH ARE ASSEMBLED AND ADJUSTED THE MT IWATE PATTERN FIRST APPEARED IN 2006 AND HAS BECOME SYNONYMOUS WITH GRAND SEIKO MECHANICAL WATCHES Autonomy in the three days of power reserve including when the chronograph is running from the two series coupled barrels a duration that is unequalled in the industry today This leaves the reliability of a movement whose mean daily rate of between 5 and 3 seconds outperforms the standard required for official Swiss chronometer rating As a guarantee Grand Seiko subjects its Tentagraph movement to a stringent testing procedure over 20 days Without going into the movement s specifications in detail we can note that the chronograph uses a vertical clutch transmission which eliminates chronograph hand recoil and is controlled by a column wheel These two specificities are completed by Grand Seiko s Dual Impulse Escapement which delivers mainspring power more efficiently to the balance in this high beat movement directly by the escape wheel and indirectly by the pallet fork Finishing is of an equally high standard both on the movement and on the titanium case and bracelet which benefit from Grand Seiko s own Zaratsu polishing As for the rich blue dial it features the Mt Iwate pattern inspired by the ridged contours of the mountain beyond the windows of the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi Christophe Roulet GRAND SEIKO SPORT COLLECTION SPRING DRIVE GMT THE SHINSHU WATCH STUDIO HOME TO ALL GRAND SEIKO SPRING DRIVE PRODUCTION LOOKS OUT ACROSS THE HOTAKA MOUNTAINS WHICH INSPIRED THIS 44MM STEEL WATCH THE DYNAMIC GREEN DIAL FEATURES LARGE INDICES AND HANDS WHICH ARE COATED WITH LUMIBRITE A 24 HOUR CHAPTER RING FRAMES THE DIAL AND CAN BE USED WITH THE GMT HAND AND THE 24 HOUR BEZEL TRACK TO FOLLOW A TOTAL OF THREE TIME ZONES WATER RESISTANCE IS 200 METRES

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES GALLERY WATCH YOUR TIME USA 44 The photographer s gaze By Helmut Stelzenberger Artistic direction Ali Saadi SHOOTING HERM S H08 THE HERM S H08 IS A CONTEMPOR ARY OB JECT A M IX OF TENS ION AND FLU I D IT Y BALANCE AND CONTRAST LIGHTWEIGHT YET ROBUST ITS CUSHION CASE MATCHES A ROSE GOLD CASEBAND WITH A BL ACK DLC TRE ATED TITANIUM BACK A BEZEL AND A CROWN IN BLACK CERAMIC ADD FURTHER CONTRAST JAEGER LECOULTRE REVERSO TRIBUTE CHRONOGRAPH THE REVERSO WAS ONE OF THE FIRST WRISTWATCHES DESIGNED TO BE WORN WHILE PL AYING SPORT THIS NEW REVERSO RETURNS TO THE ORIGINS OF THIS WATCH INSPIRED BY THE REVERSO CHRONOGR APH RELE ASED IN 1996 IT RUNS OFF CALIBER 860 A NEW MOVEMENT THAT COMBINES A CHRONOGRAPH WITH A DOUBLESIDED TIME DISPL AY SANTOS DE CARTIER WATCH THE SANTOS RECONCILES CLASSICISM WITH A PIONEERING MINDSET IN ITS GEOMETRIC LINES PURE DESIGN AND TECHNICAL INNOVATION IMAGINED IN 1904 AND MODERN BEFORE MODERN EXISTED IT EMPHASISES SIMPLICIT Y PR ACTICALIT Y AND INNOVATION THREE PRINCIPLES CLOSE TO THE HEART OF ALBERTO SANTOSDUMONT FOR WHOM CARTIER CREATED A WATCH HE COULD CONSULT WHILE FLYING HIS PL ANE CHANE L J12 CYBERNETIC WATCH THIS J12 CYBERNETIC FUSES WHITE AND BLACK CERAMIC A PROCESS REQUIRING SPECIALIST EXPERTISE INTO A PIXELLATED DESIGN CASED IN A 38MM DIAMETER ITS CALIBER 12 1 MOVEMENT IS COSC CERTIFIED AND DELIVERS 70 HOURS OF POWER RESERVE IT IS PRODUCED BY KENISSI E XCLUSIVELY FOR CHANEL PANERAI RADIOMIR OTTO GIORNI A TRIBUTE TO THE ORIGINAL RADIOMIR THAT WOULD SHAPE THE MANY SUBSEQUENT INTERPRETATIONS THE RADIOMIR OTTO GIORNI IS INSPIRED BY THE FIRST R ADIOMIR PROTOT YPE FROM 1935 WHICH ME ASURED 47MM IN DIAMETER CONTAINED IN A RETROSTYLE CASE IT CONTINUES THE LEGACY OF THE PANERAI RADIOMIR

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45 WATCH YOUR TIME USA GALLERY SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES SHOOTING B R EG U E T T YPE X X CHRONOGR APH 2067 CAR RYING ON A LONG TRADITION OF AVIATION WATCHES BREGUET PRESENTS A NEW TYPE XX IN A 42MM STEEL CASE POWERED BY AN AUTOMATIC FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENT WITH TWO SUBDIALS SMALL SECONDS AND DATE WATER RESISTANT TO 100 METRES IT WILL RUN FOR UP TO 60 HOURS ON A FULL WIND WEAR IT ON A LEATHER OR A NATO STR AP ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL YACHT MASTER 42 ROLEX PRESENTS A NEW INTERPRETATION OF THE YACHT MASTER 42 FIT TED WITH AN OYSTER BRACELET THIS IS THE FIRST EXECUTION IN RLX TITANIUM A PARTICUL ARLY STRONG BUT NONETHELESS LIGHT WEIGHT ALLOY A BIDIRECTIONAL ROTATING BEZEL WITH A BLACK CERACHROM INSERT CONNECTS THIS VERSION TO THE ORIGINAL YACHT MASTER 42MM INTRODUCED IN 2019 AU D E M A R S P I G U E T CO D E 11 59 S ELF W I N D I NG CHRONOGR APH 41MM STEEL MAKES ITS DEBUT I N TH E C O D E 11 59 C O L LECT I O N W I TH A M O D EL PROPOSED AS AUTOMATIC AND AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH VERSIONS ALSO NEW IS THE STAMPED DIAL WHOSE SPECIALLY CRE ATED PAT TERN OF CONCENTRIC CIRCLES CREATES A UNIQUE GRADIENT EFFECT THAT ENHANCES LEGIBILIT Y RICHARD MILLE RM 65 01 CR AF TED IN ROSE GOLD AND CARBON TPT THIS RM 65 01 IS THE MOST COMPLEX RICHARD MILLE CHRONO TO DATE WITH 480 COMPONENTS AN INTEGRATED AUTOMATIC SPLIT SECONDS CHRONOGRAPH IT INCORPOR ATES A DATE DISPL AY FUNCTION SELECTOR AND THE BRAND S FIRST RAPID WINDING SYSTEM A HIGH FREQUENCY CALIBER DELIVERS 1 10TH OF A SECOND PRECISION

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES GALLERY WATCH YOUR TIME USA 46 SHOOTING LOUIS VUIT TON TAMBOUR LOUIS VUIT TON MADE ITS WATCHMAKING DEBUT IN 2002 WITH THE TAMBOUR THIS 40MM VERSION IN STEEL ON AN INTEGRATED BRACELET IS BANG ON THE SPORT LUXE TREND THE AUTOMATIC LFT023 MOVEMENT MEASURES TIME ON A GREY DIAL WITH LUMINESCENT HANDS AND NUMERALS IN WHITE GOLD BVLGARI OCTO ROMA CHRONOGRAPH LEGIBILITY IS THE KEY TO THIS CHRONOGRAPH A COMPLICATION THAT JOINS THE OCTO ROMA LINE CLE ARLY DISPL AYED ON THE DIAL ARE CENTRE SECONDS SUBDIALS FOR CHRONOGRAPH HOURS CHRONOGRAPH MINUTES AND SMALL SECONDS PLUS THE DATE THE SIGNATURE CASE DESIGN OF A BROAD ROUND BEZEL ABOVE AN OCTAGONAL CASE REFERENCES ROMAN ARCHITECTURE HUBLOT BIG BANG INTEGRATED TOURBILLON FULL CARBON TRADITIONAL WATCHMAKING MEETS AN AVANT GARDE MINDSET REPRESENTING TRADITION I S A S K ELE TON IZED AND SUSPENDED TOUR B I LLON DRIVEN BY A MOVEMENT WITH TRANSPARENT SAPPHIRE BRIDGES AND THREE DAYS OF POWER RESERVE INNOVATION COMES FROM THE FUSION OF TEXALIUM AND CARBON FIBRE FOR THE CASE AND BRACELET TAG HEUER CARRERA CHRONOGRAPH GLASSBOX 39MM TAG HEUER HAS REWORKED THE DESIGN O F T H E CA R R ER A F O R T H E M O D E L S 60T H A N N I VERSARY STARTING WITH THE CASE IN STAINLESS STEEL WHOSE 39MM DIAMETER AND REFINED SHAPE SUIT EVERY WRIST SIZE ON IT SITS A GLASSBOX CRYSTAL A THROWBACK TO THE DOMED HESALITE CRYSTALS ON CERTAIN 1970S HEUER CARRERA MODELS

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47 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES Contemporary elegance More than a name Breguet is a synonym for excellence and innovation in watchmaking This heritage remains at the heart of the brand today Observers will tell you there is a before and an after Abraham Louis Breguet a watchmaker whose genius shaped the measurement of time more than any other Agree or not there is no denying that the inventor of the tourbillon who was born in the Swiss canton of Neuch tel in 1747 moving to Quai de l Horloge in Paris in 1775 was one of the Enlightenment s most remarkable and creative horologists During his lifetime this novel thinker won the favours of every European court Speaking recently about his plans for the brand which he has helmed since 2021 Chief Executive Lionel a Marca made no secret of his admiration I want this extraordinary watchmaker s story to become more widely known He invented everything from the tourbillon to crowdfunding through his subscription watches His registers which are conserved at the Breguet Museum on Place Vend me in Paris are a prototype customer database He was one of the first to open trading posts in the eighteenth century being present in France Russia and Spain He was also a fabulous designer the creator of a subtle and refined aesthetic A paragon of horological virtues such a figure is a rare exemplar although one must have the right cards in hand to be worthy of such a model Which in the case of Breguet the brand leaves no doubt Now part of the Swatch Group Breguet is experiencing a new golden age In the brand s words in 1999 Nicolas G Hayek took over one of the most precious names in fine watchmaking which was lying somewhat dormant at the time Driven by a genuine passion he infused peerless vitality into a brand endowed with an exceptional heritage and know how With the Swatch Group s industrial capacity and commercial clout behind it Breguet would have at its disposal the material and technical resources it needed to perpetuate the art of fine watchmaking The brand was given a prestigious manufacture L mania and benefited from substantial and regular investment much of it in research and development It would for example be one of the first to introduce high frequency movements and a pioneer of silicon technology On a contemporary note Breguet continues to nurture its founder s innovative spirit while epitomising the precision and perfection for which he was renowned With what type of timepiece Future products will reprise the hallmarks of the brand in a contemporary style Lionel a Marca declared Where complications are concerned the range includes ultra thin watches minute repeaters and tourbillons Our role is to make watches featuring innovative complications that remain easy to use for the wearer Illustrat BREGUET CLASSIQUE CALENDRIER 7337 THIS NEW RENDITION OF THE CL ASSIQUE CALENDRIER WITH INDICATIONS OF THE DAY DATE MOON PHASES AND SMALL SECONDS IN A 39MM GOLD CASE IS CONTEMPOR ARY WITHOUT STR AYING FROM ITS ORIGINS THE OFF CENTRE HOURS AND MINUTES DISPLAY IS DECOR ATED WITH A CLOUS DE PARIS HOBNAIL GUILLOCH WHILE THE OUTER DIAL USES A CIRCULAR BARLEYCORN MOTIF AT NOON MOON PHASES ARE REPRESENTED BY A HAMMERED GOLD MOON ON A GLITTERING BLUE LACQUER BACKGROUND ing this are two original models in the Classique collection One is a revisited interpretation of the Calendrier 7337 Its dial is decorated with guillochage a distinctive feature of a Breguet watch with a Clous de Paris or hobnail pattern on the off centre hours and minutes dial matched with a circular barleycorn motif for the surrounding dial Moon phases represented by a hand hammered moon in gold on a spangled blue lacquer sky take pride of place at 12 o clock framed by apertures for the date and day A 39mm case in white gold or rose gold contains caliber 502 one of the thinnest movements from Breguet measuring 2 4mm high and incorporating a silicon balance spring All the ingredients of this new magic formula one of the thinnest movements available on the market innovative silicon technology the original layout of indications the superbly executed guillochage and the natural elegance that comes from a watch crafted in the grand tradition can be seen both in this Calendrier 7337 and in the Quanti me Perp tuel 7327 Its slim silhouette houses the same caliber 502 with the addition of a perpetual calendar module for a total height of 4 5mm again one of the brand s thinnest movements Christophe Roulet BREGUET CLASSIQUE QUANTI ME PERP TUEL 7327 ABR AHAM LOUIS BREGUET ENJOYED GREAT SUCCESS WITH HIS PERP TUELLE WATCHES HE EQUIPPED THEM WITH AN SECOUSSES OSCILLATING WEIGHT THAT USED THE WE ARER S BODY MOVEMENTS TO AUTOMATICALLY WIND THE MECHANISM HE ALSO CHOSE THESE MODELS WHICH OFTEN INCORPORATED A CALENDAR MECHANISM TO EXPERIMENT WITH HIS FIRST GUILLOCH SILVERED DIALS IN 2023 BREGUET REVISITS THE PERPETUAL CALENDAR IN GOLD AS PART OF THE CLASSIQUE COLLECTION

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49 WATCH YOUR TIME USA ART o paloma recio director r e magazine SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES A thing of beauty Beyond the intricacy of mechanisms a watch derives its beauty from the decorative arts that transform cases and dials In the introduction to his lectures on Aesthetics Hegel writes that the aim of art is to awaken and vivify our slumbering feelings inclinations and passions of every kind We could say the same of beauty a quality that captures and awakens our senses In watchmaking beyond the technique and complexity of mechanisms pure beauty exists and is expressed through the decorative arts These m tiers d art as they are also known have been the companions of Swiss watchmaking from its very beginnings They have the noble mission to embellish timepieces in many instances transforming them into diminutive works of art for the wrist made possible only by the dexterity and creativity of highly skilled artisans The passing of time becomes almost secondary allowing enamelling miniature painting engraving gem setting guillochage marquetry and filigree to take pride of place Displays of hours minutes and seconds are transformed the watch becomes an object of beauty that encompasses an array of disciplines and requires the work of expert hands years of experience infinite patience and no small amount of imagination The art of fire The most prestigious watch manufacturers have brought these skills in house and employ their own specialists who have mastered the secrets of a particular technique passed through generations These studios may on occasion collaborate with experts outside the department many of whom have acquired unparalleled expertise in their field Enamel The artist by his work is known Jean de La Fontaine 1621 1695 artist Anita Porchet immediately springs to mind As one of the foremost modern practitioners of enamel miniature painting her services are requested by the most prestigious and storied Haute Horlogerie makers One of Ms Porchet s most recent productions in collaboration with engraver Dick Steenman is for the Tambour Opera Automata by Louis Vuitton Inspired by Bian Lian a dramatic art associated with Sichuan Opera the mask she has created in white red and black cloisonn enamel with gold wire changes expression on demand Next to it is a fan a fundamental accessory for performers in champlev enamel This motif is repeated on the crown The enamelwork for the dial and crown represents seven days of painstaking work Master engraver Dick Steenman spent a further two weeks sculpting the elements in gold including the dragon that wraps around the mask An artistic vision of time Art history and culture are the building blocks for the artisans at Vacheron Constantin where time has always been viewed through an artistic lens One piece in particular war rants mention Crafted as a unique piece Les Cabinotiers Tribute to Johannes Vermeer offers a vibrant demonstration of the mechanical arts by incorporating a Westminster grande sonnerie and a tourbillon regulator as well as the decorative arts in the engraving and sculpting techniques illustrated on the case bow and flanks of this pocket watch On the back cover the miniature reproduction in enamel of Vermeer s celebrated Girl with a Pearl Earring also the work of Anita Porchet achieves a degree of perfection commensurate with the watch itself Another timepiece deserving of work ofart status is the RM 47 Tourbillon Richard Mille s homage to Japanese samurai culture and the values of bushido their code of conduct Each watch in this 75 piece limited series took 16 hours to engrave and nine hours to paint entirely by hand to create the samurai armour in yellow gold Eleven sculpted engraved and partially painted elements frame the tourbillon whose compact size leaves more space free for the miniature armour and swords Connoisseurs will notice the crest of the Asano a clan of legendary warriors They will appreciate the beauty of the traditional kabuto helmet with its ribbon and observe how the two swords in their sheaths are positioned blade upwards ready for combat These past years have been something of a golden era for the decorative arts in fine watchmaking from traditional techniques that have been reimagined in line with cduisrarepnpteataresdteasntdohoatvheebrseetnhabtrohuagdhat lmost CHOPAR D HAPPY SP ORT 25MM A TIMEPIECE FOR WOMEN WHO STRIDE BOLDLY TOWARDS THEIR DESTINY AND WHOSE VITALIT Y IMPELS PL AYFUL DANCING DIAMONDS TO STAGE A MESMERISING SHOW AT THE HEART OF THE NEW HAPPY SPORT REINVENTED IN A 25 MM DIAMETER CASE IN STEEL OR STEEL AND ETHICAL GOLD THE COURSE OF DANCING DIAMONDS BECOMES EVEN MORE FASCINATING THIS NEW SIZED ITERATION OF THE MANUFACTURE S ICONIC WATCH COMES IN FOUR VARIATIONS FEATURING A CHOICE OF MATERIALS STRAPS INCLUDING A NEW DOUBLE TOUR OPTION AND DIAMOND SETTINGS

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES ART WATCH YOUR TIME USA 50 back to life They are as essential as the artisans who practice these crafts with seemingly infinite imagination Jaeger LeCoultre has designed its M tiers Rares Atelier as a place where these skilled craftsmen and women can apply these decorative techniques side by side to deliver a renewed message of beauty in a contemporary language Ancient techniques A companion to watchmaking since the seventeenth century enamel is the triumph of color over time It is also a delicate technique that requires vast artistic intuition and talent in addition to patience and precision which is perhaps why most enamellers are women Depending on the degree of detail and complexity of the piece an enamelled dial can be fired several dozen times at 800 C Gem setting is another sought after technique for the decoration of cases and dials as is guillochage or engine turning Abraham Louis Breguet was first to use guillochage on a watch in the 1780s sensing that it would give a distinctive beauty to his dials Still today a guilloch dial is a signature of a Breguet watch Performed on a rose engine lathe guillochage demands that artisan and machine work as one modulating speed of rotation and pressure to create depth and play of light Patterns are many and varied and carry evocative names such as Clous de Paris barleycorn chequerboard basketweave and sunburst Such a wealth of decorations gives an engine turned dial its unique personality Other lesser known techniques produce equally splendid results Shakudo is one This ancient Japanese art once used by samurais to adorn every part of their cataphract is now practiced in Switzerland s Vall e de Joux A watch dial is dipped into a bath of rokusho an alloy of copper and gold as many time as required to achieve the desired nuances of black grey and blue A shakudo dial is usually further embellished with an engraved motif Damascene is another spreading from Damascus whence it takes its name to Japan and Spain Toledo remains an important centre for damascene A metal surface is finely etched to form the outline of the design Gold or silver threads are then inlaid into these indentations after which the surface is polished smooth ready to stand the test of time Also from Japan urushi lacquer has been used by Chopard for the dials of some of its most exceptional timepieces including those in celebration of the Lunar New Year The dials for this Year of the Rab bit for example are the work of world renowned urushi master crafting each Minori one Koizumi who spent 160 hours I II III IIII V VI I BULOVA SUTTON THE SOPHISTICATED DESIGN OF THE SUTTON IS ENHANCED BY THE FULL EXHIBITION DIAL AND CASE BACK FEATURING A GOLD TONE STAINLESS STEEL SCREW BACK CASE SKELE TON SILVER WHITE THREE HAND DIAL REVEALING THE INTRICATE WORKINGS OF THE SELF WINDING 21 JEWEL MOVEMENT DOMED MINER AL CRYSTAL AND WATER RESISTANCE TO 30 METRES II BLANCPAIN LADYBIRD COLORS THIS SPRING SPELLS VIBRANT TOUCHES FOR BL ANCPAIN AS THE MANUFACTURE PL AYS WITH COLOR COMBINATIONS TO ENHANCE TWO REFINED SMALL SECONDS AND MOON PHASE COMPLICATIONS THESE INDICATIONS NE WLY INTRODUCED TO THE L ADYBIRD COLORS COLLECTION ARE SMOOTHLY INTEGRATED INTO THE DESIGN OF THIS JEWELLERY LINE III JAEGER LECOULTRE RENDEZ VOUS DAZ ZLING STAR JAEGERLECOULTRE INVENTS AN ENTIRELY NE W COMPLICATION IN THE FORM OF A SHOOTING STAR CUT IN A SPINNING AVENTURINE DISC WHICH APPEARS AT RANDOM MOMENTS FOUR TO SIX TIMES AN HOUR ON THE BLUE AVENTURINE DIAL ACTIVATED BY THE MOVEMENT OF THE WRIST THIS COMPLICATION CAN ALSO BE ENJOYED ON DEMAND III CHANEL MADEMOISELLE PRIV PIQUE AIGUILLES LACE MOTIF IN THE ATELIERS ON RUE CAMBON GABRIELLE CHANEL WAS NEVER WITHOUT A PAIR OF SCISSORS AROUND HER NECK AND A PINCUSHION STRAPPED TO HER WRIST THIS LATTER TOOL HAS INSPIRED A WATCH WHOSE LARGE 55MM DIAMETER OFFERS SCOPE FOR FIVE TABLEAUX INCLUDING THIS CAMELLIA STREWN L ACE MOTIF V MONTBL ANC BOH ME DAY NIGHT 30MM THIS NEW DIAL DEPICTS A FAIRY TALE SCENE OF FLUFF Y MOTHER OF PEARL CLOUDS AND A DAY NIGHT DISC WHOSE GR ADIENTS OF BLUE SKY ARE ENHANCED WITH R AYS OF LIGHT AS THE SUN RISES THE MOON SETS AND VICE VERSA BUT AT MIDNIGHT IN DEFIANCE OF THE LAWS OF NATURE SUN AND MOON MEET VI LOUIS VUIT TON TAMBOUR FIERY HEART AUTOMATA LOUIS VUITTON DEMONSTRATES ITS VIRTUOSO SKILL AS A MAKER OF AUTOMATA WATCHES WITH THIS DECIDEDLY FEM ININE MODEL WHICH IS FITTED WITH THE BRAND S FIRST IN HOUSE AUTOMATA MOVEMENT WITH AUTOMATIC WINDING THE RICH REDS AND GREENS AND SUBTLE TEXTURES OF ITS GRAND FEU ENAMEL DIAL OFFER A DAZZLING SPECTACLE

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51 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS Evolution Truth be told the advanced timing technology created by Accutron and powering its Spaceview watches is cutting edge Now Accutron takes the collection to new heights with the Spaceview Evolution series SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES With a tag line that reads It s not a timepiece it s a conversation piece Accutron has been creating some of the most innovative state of the art watches for decades In fact in 1960 Accutron offered its first fully electronic watch It was one of the most accurate mechanisms ever built and boasted a tiny tuning fork inside that vibrated thanks to a small battery The concept and the open worked dial design that revealed the tuning fork and electric parts wowed the world so much so that the technology inherent in the movement later became an important part of America s space program In 2020 Accutron previously under the auspices of Bulova was re launched as its own brand again and there was no better way to do that than to return the watch design that initially made the brand famous but to do so in a technologically advanced manner The Spaceview 2020 and Accutron DNA watches still with openworked dial boasted an exciting new world s first development the Electrostatic movement using the attraction and repulsion of positive and negative electrical charges for power A true feat of engineering developed entirely in house at Accutron s Tokyo manufacture the proprietary electrostatic energy movement uses human motion to create the energy but does so differently than an automatic movement thanks to swift moving electrostatic generators negative and positive electrodes and more It is a complex powerful technology that ensures the watch is accurate to 5 seconds monthly a significant accomplish ment The technology also yields a superb design that showcases two turbines on the lower portion of the dial between 4 00 and 8 00 and a larger one that is an electrostatic motor and that is in the 9 00 position on the dial All Accutron s Spaceview 2020 watches utilize the electrostatic movement and combine it with superb three dimensional like open worked dials Two models Accutron takes the collection to new heights with the Spaceview Evolution series Just unveiled in June the new timepieces are a design evolution of the iconic Spaceview 2020 Historically the Spaceview was known for its iconic inside out transparent look that was hailed as a design influence across multiple industries such as architecture and fashion Today s models echo that same aesthetic now with the movement re oriented by 30 degrees to give the timepieces a spectacular new look Accutron has taken a great deal of time adding details to the bridges and structure that holds all of the turbines together and that is visible dial side To further enhance the new Spaceview Evolution watches the brand turns to fine knurled finishes and contrasting ACCUTRON SPACEVIEW 2020 TIME HAS JUST CHANGED AGAIN THIS LUXURY WATCH FOR MEN RE IMAGINES WHAT A TIMEPIECE CAN BE WITH THE PROPRIETARY ELECTROSTATIC MOVEMENT UNIQUE TO THE ACCUTRON LINE AN INTRICATELY ENGINEERED MOTOR AND TURBINE SYSTEM THAT GENERATES POWER THIS IS A TIMEPIECE THAT IS DESIGNED TO BE AS INDIVIDUAL AS YOU ARE tones of gold hued turbines and white metal all to offer even more depth and dimension One Spaceview Evolution watch is dark and stealth in appeal thanks to a smoke gray almost char coal colored open worked dial with smoke gray outer minute track and smoked gray structure that is etched in an almost honeycomb like pattern On this model all of the screws on the white bridges are the same smoked gray color This bi color mono chrome look endows the watch with a very contem porary feel The other version offers a totally different look thanks to a silver toned open worked dial a different colored outer ring and the fact that the bridge structure holding the turbines together fea tures a triangular diamond like pattern that exudes a classic appeal All of the screws are blued on this version and the hands are outlined in blue with the light green luminous material painted in the center Both versions are finished with a color coordinated black or blue respectively genuine American alli gator strap In concert with its 63rd anniversary on October 25th Accutron launched a new partnership with Le Kool champagne adding a sparkling twist to its Legacy timepieces featuring straps that match the champagne bottles Roberta Naas ACCUTRON SPACEVIEW EVOLUTION FEATURING THE PROPRIETARY ACCUTRON MOVEMENT POWERED BY ELECTROSTATIC ENERGY THE NEW SPACEVIEW EVOLUTION IS A TRUE DESIGN EVOLUTION OF THE ORIGINAL SPACEVIEW 2020 WHILE UTILIZING THE SAME DISTINCTIVE CASE THE NEW MODELS FEATURE AN UPDATED ORIENTATION OF THE MOVEMENT BY 30 DEGREES TO GIVE THE WATCHES AN ENTIRELY NEW LOOK

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The Millennium SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES Watch Book Each year a new edition to collect ART WATCH YOUR TIME USA 52 Renaissance and haute couture From East to West and Renaissance Italy where Bvlgari found inspiration for its Diva s Dream Peacock Dischi The peacock feather marquetry on the dial returns to a technique that flourished in Italy during this period The first stage is to sort through some 500 feathers examining each one to select those with the best color and texture The chosen feathers are pressed in an antique brass steamer to bring out their full beauty They are then trimmed glued and assembled into the mosaic like pattern with no two dials the same Haute couture inspired Dior for its Grand Bal watches Prominent on the dial side the oscillating weight of the Inverse Caliber is bedecked with feathers fragments of but terfly or scarab wings or a kaleidoscope of precious stones to suggest the swirling of an haute couture ball gown Part of Dior s Grand Soir collection the white gold dial of the Grand Soir Libellule is awash with diamonds in a snow setting Resting on it is a dragonfly in yellow gold set with emeralds sapphires and amethysts Its wings are adorned with mother of pearl and colored feathers Chanel is another watchmaker to explore themes borrowed from haute couture or inspired by Coco Chanel herself The Mademoiselle Priv Coromandel collection borrows elements from the folding screens that decorated the legendary couturier s apartments transposed in miniature to dials in delicately sculpted and carved gold or mother of pearl Discover the 2020 2030 collection on the watch book com I II Edition 2023 III IIII I BAIGNOIRE DE CARTIER WATCH THERE HAVE BEEN MULTIPLE INCARNATIONS OF THE BAIGNOIRE WATCH SINCE ITS FIRST APPE AR ANCE IN 1912 THIS YE AR SEES A CHANGE OF SCALE WITH SMALLER PROPORTIONS THE DIAL WITH ROMAN NUMERALS IS CROWNED WITH THE FULLNESS OF THE BEZEL WHILE THE CURVED OVAL DIAL EXTENDS INTO A BANGLE TO BE SLIPPED ONTO THE WRIST II FREDERIQUE CONSTANT HIGHLIFE LADIES AUTOMATIC SPARKLING THE SK Y BLUE DIAL OF THIS VERSION OF FREDERIQUE CONSTANT S HIGHLIFE LADIES AUTOMATIC SPARKLING HAS BEEN DIPPED IN STARDUST AND FRAMED WITH DIAMONDS TIME IS MEASURED ON DIAMOND HOUR MARKERS ENCASED IN A 34MM DIAMETER III ACCUTRON LEGACY FIRST L AUNCHED IN 1966 THE 565 FROM ACCUTRON TURNED HEADS AND MADE A STATEMENT TODAY THIS LEGACY COLLECTION TIMEPIECE HARKENS BACK TO THAT ERA REIMAGINING THE CLASSIC WITH AN UPDATED SWISS MADE 26 JEWEL MOVEMENT A UNIQUE CROSS HATCHING DETAIL WAS ADDED TO THE ALREADY VISUALLY DISTINCTIVE ASYMME TRICAL CASE DESIGN IIII LONGINES LA GRANDE CLASSIQUE MONOCHROMATIC LONGINES INTRODUCES COLORFUL INTERPRETATIONS OF ONE OF ITS MOST BELOVED COLLECTIONS THE AP TLYNAMED LA GRANDE CLASSIQUE A DISCREET 29MM DIAMETER WILL STILL BE NOTICED FOR THE VIBRANT SHADE OF ITS LACQUERED AND POLISHED DIAL

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53 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS ARNAUD CHASTAINGT DIRECTOR CHANEL WAT C H M A K I N G CREATION STUDIO SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES Interstellar capsule Taking a cue from its haute couture for the past two years Chanel s Watchmaking Creation Studio has released superb capsule collections In 2023 the brand exceeds all expectations with the Interstellar capsule collection inspired by space and time travel science fiction the mysteries of the night skies and the wonders of our galaxy By thinking way outside of the design box Chanel takes watch design to all new heights yielding stunning results by including pixel shapes circuit board motifs phosphorescent effects and more across several of its most beloved lines including J12 Premiere Boy Friend and Code Coco watches According to Arnaud Chastaingt Director of the Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio he was inspired by the landscapes of time and space and by reality as well as imagination Landscapes he said are staggeringly beautiful from the stars in the night sky one of Gabrielle Chanel s sources of inspiration to the images taken by the Hubble space telescope which really look like sets from a science fiction movie Easily one of the most talked about Interstellar releases is the J12 Hyper Cybernetic watch that excels with both design and technical triumphs Both mind boggling and seductive the J12 Hyper Cybernetic watch was inspired by the digital imaging world where hundreds of thousands of pixels come together to create an image The watch boasts a graphic almost pixelated motif using ceramic and diamonds What truly sets it apart though is the fact that the left side of the black ceramic watch is round but the right side features a stepped and angled diamond set form Creating this timepiece was no easy feat and in order to achieve the graphic angled squares of diamonds that jut out from the case on the right side of the watch two separate cases had to be made One case is black matte ceramic while the other case is white gold and set with diamonds The two are assembled to form the final water resistant case Chanel even had to create its own tools for cutting the ultra hard ceramic to the exacting specifications needed It takes the brand s master engineers a full day to set up the cutting machines A whimsical side to time Each watch boasts 240 brilliant cut diamonds weighing 1 30 carats To ensure every J12 Hyper Cybernetic watch is the same Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio has established precise guidelines Naturally at Chanel what is inside the watch is just as important as the design so the J12 Hyper Cybernetic watch is powered by the haute horology Caliber 12 1 self winding movement with black galvanic coating The COSC certified movement with 70 hours of power reserve is made by Swiss manufacture Kenissi which is co owned by Chanel The finely CHANE L J12 HYPER CYBERNETIC THE J12 CYBERNE TIC AND J12 HYPER CYBERNETIC EXPERIMENT WITH PIXELS INDIVIDUAL UNITS OF COLOR WHICH MULTIPLIED BY THOUSANDS EVEN MILLIONS FORM A COMPUTER IMAGE SCALED UP PIXELS SPREAD OUT FROM THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE DIAL ALONG THE CASE AND ONTO THE LUGS OF THESE J12 WATCHES CRE ATING A JAGGED EDGE THE J12 CYBERNE TIC IN BL ACK AND WHITE CER AM IC BENEFITS FROM ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY FIRST SEEN IN 2020 ON THE J12 PAR ADOXE THAT FUSES DIFFERENT COLORED CERAMICS ON A SINGLE WATCH finished movement is visible via a transparent sapphire case back Just 55 pieces will be made Offering a whimsical side to time Chanel releases the Interstellar Premiere X Ray watch that is a surprising play on transparency and light The bracelet of the beloved 18 karat gold Premiere watch features open worked alternating links of white gold set with diamonds totally expected from Chanel and unexpected clear sapphire crystal links Showcasing a snow set diamond dial the Interstellar Premiere X Ray is at once arresting and alluring In total the quartz powered watch is set with 1 700 brilliant cut diamonds weighing 5 43 carats Just ten pieces will be made Of course it wouldn t be Chanel without a special one of a kind piece to wow the world For Interstellar that statement came in the form of the incredible J12 Eclipse boxed set of seven J12 ceramic watches that are designed to emulate an eclipse The watches range from white to varying combinations of black and white gradually getting more black than white as the eclipse continues and ending with an all matte black ceramic watch That set sold out immediately Roberta Naas CHANEL PREMI RE HYPER LUCK Y STAR PART OF THE INTERSTELL AR CAPSULE COLLECTION THIS 55 PIECE LIMITED EDITION IN WHITE GOLD IS AWASH WITH 284 BRILLIANT CUT DIAMONDS WITH 116 DIAMONDS ON THE DIAL 162 DIAMONDS ON THE BR ACELET AND SIX DIAMONDS ON THE WHITE COMET CHARM THAT HANGS FROM THE CROWN IN REFERENCE TO CHANEL S FIRST HIGH JEWELRY R ANGE THE BIJOUX DE DIAMANTS COLLECTION FROM 1932 THIS PREMI RE WATCH EXPRESSES FREEDOM OF MOVEMENT IN ITS TENNIS BRACELET WHOSE SUPPLE CONSTRUCTION PERFECTLY FITS THE CURVE OF THE WRIST

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 54 60 years at the top It is a legend among contemporary watches arguably the greatest of all time and one of the most lusted after In celebration of the Daytona s 60th anniversary Rolex has revisited the jewel in its coronet One thing however hasn t changed it is still almost impossible to obtain ROLEX AND MOTOR SPORT ROLEX S INVOLVEMENT IN MOTOR SPORTS DATES BACK TO THE 1930S WHEN SIR MALCOLM CAMPBELL BROKE THE 300 MPH 483 KM H BARRIER AND SET NUMEROUS LAND SPEED RECORDS IN HIS BLUEBIRD RACING CAR HE WORE A ROLEX DURING HIS EXPLOITS FOR MORE THAN 90 YEARS THE LINKS BETWEEN ROLEX AND MOTOR SPORTS HAVE CONTINUED TO GROW STRONGER TODAY ROLEX IS A LEADING PARTNER OF MAJOR MOTOR SPORT COMPETITIONS AND ORGANISATIONS AS WELL AS THE WORLD S GREATEST DRIVERS Let s not beat about the bush there is no other watch like the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona An icon if ever there was it continues to fill pages in one of the most fascinating chapters in the history of watchmaking The first fans of the Daytona chronograph the same models that now send auction prices through the roof and collectors into a spin were its original audience of professional race car drivers However all the attributes of this future global phenomenon were already in place and it wouldn t be long before the Daytona s fame spread beyond the racing circuit Leading the field The legend took off on Daytona Beach Florida a stretch of hard packed sand where drivers competed in some of the very first high speed motor races Early on Rolex forged links with the US resort and with some of these speed kings including Sir Malcolm Campbell who between 1924 and 1935 set nine land speed records including five on Daytona Beach In 1935 at the wheel of the Blue Bird he became the first person to break the 300 mph 482 kph barrier The watch on his wrist A Rolex In a telegram which he addressed to the brand in Geneva he observed that the Rolex watch is still keeping perfect time I was wearing it yesterday when Blue Bird exceeded 300 mph To all intents and purposes Campbell was the first Rolex Testimonee in motorsports When in 1959 the action moved from the beach to the newly inaugurated Daytona International Speedway Rolex was in pole position The man behind the construction of the track William France Sr wore a Rolex and so the brand became the Official Timepiece of the Daytona International Speedway This connection prompted Rolex management in the United States to ask for the Daytona name to be printed on the dial of chronographs destined for the US a feature that was gradually extended to all markets In 1992 Rolex became the Title Sponsor of the 24 Hours of Daytona The most prestigious race in the United States it was renamed the Rolex 24 At Daytona The winning drivers are presented with an exclusive Cosmograph Daytona with the year and Winner engraved on the caseback To quote the brand the drivers who take part in this race dream of being able to wear a Daytona thanks to an achievement that would earn universal respect winning it An original bezel When Rolex launched the Cosmograph a name it invented in 1963 it had been making chronographs for three decades already and was now intent on producing a new generation chrono specifically for racing drivers exactly as it had done ten years earlier with the Explorer designed for mountaineers and adventurers and the Submariner for deep sea divers Retailing in the United States for 210 the new Professional chronograph reference 6239 powered by a manual winding Valjoux caliber was designed as a practical functional instrument with clearly legible indications including contrasting colors for the chronograph counters Most importantly the tachymeter scale migrated from the dial to the bezel This would be the distinguishing feature of the first Cosmograph not yet the Daytona in history The version introduced two years later replaced the pump pushers of the original model with screwdown chronograph pushers By preventing water from seeping into the case they reinforced the Oyster concept and in testimony to this the Oyster name was added to the dial New dials were also introduced during these years including one the exotic dial with square hash marks on the chrono counters whose destiny was secured as the watch Paul Newman wore The actor whose role as a racing driver in Winning 1969 sparked his passion for motor sport wore an exotic dial Daytona gifted to him by his wife with the engraved message Drive Carefully Me on the caseback Rolex ceased production of the exotic dial in the late 1970s

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55 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA SINCE THE INAUGURAL MODEL IN 1963 THE COSMOGR APH DAY TONA HAS SEEN NUMEROUS ADJUSTMENTS AND EVOLUTIONS PRECISE LEGIBLE ROBUST RELIABLE WATER RESISTANT AND AUTOMATIC IT IS ALSO COMFORTABLE AND ELEGANT A PERFECT ALCHEMY OF FORM AND FUNCTION ITS FAME AND SUCCESS HAVE MADE IT AN ICON AMONG WATCHES SIXTY YEARS AFTER ITS LAUNCH THE LEGEND LIVES ON IN A REVISITED RANGE WITH FIVE MODELS THAT INCLUDE THIS VERSION IN PLATINUM THE MOVEMENT CALIBER 4131 INCORP OR ATES THE L ATEST TECHN ICAL ADVANCES BY ROLE X With a little help from Paul Photographs of Newman wearing his Cosmograph including on the front cover of an Italian magazine in the early 1980s fuelled enthusiasm for this model It even earned a nickname the Paul Newman Daytona or PND as it s known in collectors circles Prices went full throttle A Paul Newman Daytona that would have fetched around 9 000 at auction in 1992 now sells for upwards of 200 000 History was made in 2017 when the actor s personal Daytona the one with the engraved back hammered for 17 8 million including buyer s premium The most ever paid for a Rolex at auction The brand introduced subtle evolutions to its Cosmograph Daytona an icon must be treated with respect prior to a major mechanical and aesthetic overhaul in 1988 Henceforth the Daytona was fitted with an automatic movement a Zenith El Primero with more than half its components modified to Rolex requirements that was chronometer certified by the Contr le Officiel Suisse des Chronom tres COSC The case increased in size from 36mm to 40mm and incorporated shoulders to protect the crown The tachymetric bezel was made wider and engraved with a 400unit graduated scale This new model met with phenomenal success and contributed to a surge of renewed interest in mechanical watches the flipside being that production struggled to keep pace with demand particularly for steel With the new millennium came another milestone The Cosmograph Daytona introduced in 2000 kept the same design but innovated in terms of what lay under the hood For the first time in its history the Cosmograph Daytona was powered by an in house automatic movement caliber 4130 Technical solutions included a 60 reduction in the number of components for the chronograph mechanism for greater reliability and the introduction of a Parachrom balance spring A keen observer will see that the chronograph minute and hour counters are aligned slightly above the centre of the dial In 2016 the aesthetics of the Cosmograph Daytona in steel were boosted by the addition of a Cerachrom ceramic bezel that is smoother more lustrous and more scratch resistant than the engraved metal bezel New transparency For the Cosmograph s 60th anniversary this year Rolex has introduced a number of evolutions and refinements The dial has been subtly redesigned and the contrast between the dial and the counters is accentuated The case is 0 2mm thinner on versions with a solid back and the Cerachrom ceramic bezel is edged with the same metal as the case However the major innovation has to be the new caliber 4131 which incorporates all the latest tech nical advances by the brand including a Chronergy escapement to reduce energy loss Paraflex shock absorbers to protect the heart of the movement and an optimized ball bearing for improved automatic winding This new movement also features a cut out oscillating weight and on the bridges an exclusive Rolex C tes de Gen ve decoration On the ver sion in 950 platinum these details can be enjoyed through a transparent caseback in sapphire a first for the Oyster Perpetual collection The cherry on the cake in June for the centenary edition of the 24 Hours of Le Mans endurance race Rolex took the wraps off a special Cosmograph Daytona It too has a transparent back that shows off the exclusive caliber 4132 movement An evolu tion of caliber 4131 it incorporates an additional mechanism developed and patented by Rolex which counts chronograph hours over 24 hours instead of the model s usual twelve The case is crafted in 18k white gold and topped with a black Cerachrom bezel The 100 mark on the tachymeter scale is picked out in red Referencing a vintage Rolex the reverse panda style sets white counters against a black dial The Cosmograph Daytona has evolved over its 60 years but some things never change when hoping to buy this now legendary watch patience is a virtue not to be overlooked Michel Jeannot

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 56 Great expectations The latest luxury sports watch to join the ATTESA collection lives up way up to the promise implicit in its name In 1987 Citizen introduced a luxury sports watch called the ATTESA The name Italian for expectation or anticipation was remarkably prescient Encased in the Japanese watchmaker s proprietary lightweight and corrosion scratch and rust resistant Super Titanium five times harder and 40 lighter than stainless steel the wristwatch was the first in a series of timepieces that anticipated what watch lovers of the future would value in a timekeeper a potent combination of performance innovation and style This year the new ATTESA Unite With Blue AT8188 64L lives up to the promise embedded in its name The 42 5 mm titanium watch one of five new models that belong to Citizen s Unite With Blue collection of limited edition watches inspired by the ocean ticks all the performance boxes it s a threeregister chronograph equipped with world time functionality 26 time zones a perpetual calendar with day and date indicators 12 24 hour timekeeping a power reserve display and a date window at 3 o clock Thanks to its Super Titanium casing developed and processed in house in order to ensure the material is gentle and comfortable on the skin the watch which comes on a matching titanium bracelet represents CITIZEN ATTESA ATOMIC TIMEKEEPING SUPER TITANIUMTM INSPIRED BY THE OCEANS THE WATCHES OF CITIZEN S UNITE WITH BLUE SERIES JOIN THE COLORS OF THE SE VEN SE AS ON ONE 100 RECYCLED POLYCARBONATE DIAL A 42 5MM SCRATCH RESISTANT SUPER TITANIUMTM CASE IN BLACK DLC AND A MATCHING INTEGRATED LEATHER STRAP SOLIDIFY THE LIGHTWEIGHT DURABLE CONSTRUCTION OF THE TIMEPIECE the pinnacle of Citizen s case making knowhow And yet even more impressive is the technological innovation that ticks within The ATTESA Unite With Blue like all ATTESA models since 1995 is driven by Citizen s sustainable light powered Eco Drive technology first developed in 1976 The technology captures light from any natural or artificial source and converts it into energy using an inbuilt solar cell Thanks to its Atomic Timekeeping functionality the watch self adjusts to the local time and date when traveling overseas by receiving position data and a time signal from GPS satellites orbiting the Earth Accurate to within 15 seconds per month the Eco Drive movement runs for ten months on a full charge Superlative accomplishments Technological excellence has been a hallmark of the ATTESA collection for decades The new Caliber F950 movement that debuted in the ATTESA CC4004 58E in 2018 signified even more progress Not only did the watch display GPS satellite time at ultra high speed thanks to its fast moving hands it also featured two proprietary surfacehardening technologies Duratect MRK and Dura CITIZEN AT TESA UNITE WITH BLUE A THREE REGISTER CHRONOGR APH IN A VERTICAL DISPL AY ANCHORS THE LOOK OF THIS MODEL WITH BL ACK AND SILVER TONE ACCENTS ALONGSIDE A DATE WINDOW AT 3 O CLOCK OTHER ADVANCED FEATURES INCLUDE WORLD TIME IN 26 TIME ZONES A PERPETUAL CALENDAR WITH DAY AND DATE INDICATORS 12 24 HOUR TIMEKEEPING AND A POWER RESERVE DISPL AY tect DLC known for conferring both durability and shine making that year s ATTESA Black Titanium series an instant hit A year later Citizen innovated once again when it unveiled a new Duratect color MRK Gold to evoke the light side of the moon In 2019 Citizen teamed with the Japanese commer cial lunar exploration program Hakuto R to make the ATTESA the mission s official timepiece part ner a natural fit for a watch fabricated in Citizen s groundbreaking Super Titanium All the while the collection never failed to deliver on its reputation for style In the case of the ATTESA Unite With Blue AT8188 64L the model s beguiling iridescent blue green dial is at once a reflection of the collection s perennial good looks as well as its spirit of invention Made from 100 recycled polycarbonate FUJIFILM that changes color based on light exposure the face has been designed to evoke the colors of the sea With its world time equipped bezel in black DLC and black and silver tone accents the ATTESA Unite With Blue is equal parts style and substance Through Citizen s partnership with 1 for the Planet a global organization whose members contribute at least 1 of their annual revenue to environmental causes the brand donates 1 of its website sales in the U S to support nonprofit organizations focused on the environment including initiatives that promote marine conservation Victoria Gomelsky

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59 WATCH YOUR TIME USA HI TECH SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES o james gurney The silicon revolution Between the Apple Watch which uses seven nanometre chips and an Omega Speedmaster based on seventeenth century designs there is no comparison And yet the competition between the two could well be a silicon story Precision is much less talked about by watch brands than it was even 20 years ago a function of watchmaking s final transition from supplier of practical necessity to pillar of the luxury industry few brands now bother to pretend that tourbillons offer anything more than added aesthetic value It s ironic then that the underlying technology has improved over this time at a rate comparable to the eighteenth century race to produce a marine chronometer good enough for navigation So how good are contemporary watches Precision and reliability are surprisingly tricky ideas to measure in practice and bench tests on timing machines are limited in what they can tell you about how a watch will perform over time and in the wild Nevertheless the headline figures tell a compelling story the standard that COSC requires for a movement to be awarded a chronometer rating is 4 6 seconds per day with an average variation of two seconds per day over the testing period Advances in performance That standard has been in place since 1973 and was set to a level of precision which better than average but otherwise ordinary series production quality watches could achieve In comparison Omega s new Spirate balance the latest in a series of Art was an additional emotion applied to skillful technique Charlie Chaplin 1889 1977 enhancements to movement architecture from the Biel brand has allowed Omega to claim a certified precision of 0 2 seconds per day for the new Speedmaster Super Racing Rolex claims 2 2 for the vast majority of its production and in both cases the standard is applied to complete watches rather than movements on their own Those numbers make impressive reading but of more use to the average watch buyer is the extension to guarantee and warranty periods over the last decade with both Omega and Rolex increasing the service interval recommendation to five years These are watches that keep better time for longer under tougher conditions It s not just in the basics of reliability that new technology has improved things as the fast beat watches from Chopard Seiko TAG Heuer and Zenith or the ultra slim watches from Bvlgari Piaget and Richard Mille demonstrate the last decade in particular has seen significant advances in performance Silicon wonders Everyone knows that silicon has been the watch industry s wonder material However the really interesting story of the past two decades is not the material or even the basic production techniques for making silicon components it s the way watchmakers and production engineers have adapted silicon to their needs and let what they learn adapt their ideas and thinking not forgetting that the industry has had to prove silicon can work to the same levels of dependability as legacy materials Ulysse Nardin s Freak of 2001 the first watch to include silicon components showed that silicon could be used not should be used although the way it was deployed served as a preview for what the industry could achieve The novel carousel movement developed by Carole Forestier and adapted by Ludwig Oeschlin required lighter than usual materials for the dual escape wheels at its heart Aluminium was initially tried but wore out too quickly The alternative solution was silicon and the parts were designed and produced in time for the 2001 Baselworld trade fair Once the excitement of the launch and the ingenious carrousel movement and novel escapement had died down it was quickly clear that there was something r emnoatrkoanblylewaebreoutht ethyeligsihlitcaonndbdaularnacbelew he els HUBLOT SPIRIT OF BIG BANG TOURBILLON 5 DAY POWER RESERVE SKY BLUE CARBON A COMBINATION OF CARBON AND TITANIUM GIVES THIS 42MM BIG BANG ITS UNIQUE APPEARANCE THE TOURBILLON WAS SKELE TONIZED SPECIFICALLY FOR THE TONNEAU CASE MANUALLY WOUND THE MOVEMENT ACCUMULATES 115 HOURS OF P OWER RESERVE SHOWN ON THE FIVE DAY INDICATOR AT 8 O CLOCK

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES HI TECH WATCH YOUR TIME USA 60 the diagrams and renders released by Ulysse Nardin showed that additive manufacturing gave movement designers an entirely new set of tools An ongoing revolution This was a revolution that s still playing out twenty plus years later with entire academic fields emerging to research the implications and possibilities and not just in Switzerland Three broad categories of change can be identified material geometry and conceptual Silicon might be a wonder material but on its own it has significant drawbacks principally that it is comparatively brittle compared to traditional materials This being an industry that expects components to last for decades in use that would have been a fatal flaw save that DRIE and LIGA fabrication techniques are well suited to combining silicon with other materials such as oxygen nickel phosphorous and carbon either as distinct layers or as reactive agents to alter the mechanical characteristics of the material One of the early adopters of silicon Patek Phillipe along with Rolex and the Swatch Group used a similar technique to create Silinvar This amorphous silicon dioxide which is highly resistant to changes in temperature as well as highly elastic was eventually deployed for the pallet escape wheel balance and spring of the brand s Oscillomax escapement assembly The evolution of Patek s escapement system introduces the next phase of the silicon story geometry Traditional balance springs are a product of design and craft experience paired by hand with balance wheels enhanced with subtle alterations such as the Breguet overcoil again by hand and fixed also by hand to collets for fitting on the balance Patek s Spiromax not only offered better stability across temperature ranges as well as being amagnetic it was a one piece component that had its terminal curve designed in from the start For the first time engineers could decide exactly how the spring and balance would behave instead of relying on watchmakers to adjust after the fact Twenty years of innovation The next stage of the revolution was conceptual a realisation that novel materials and techniques were an invitation to think differently about what you wanted to make in the first place The Freak and Oscillomax were the appliance of silicon technology to existing essentially conventional designs What came next was demonstrated to me with a paper train ticket springiness doesn t need an obviously spring like structure If you bend the ticket you can make predictably This is the uitnsdnearlpyinbgetiwdeeaebnethwinodstates I II III IIII V VI I BVLGARI OCTO ROMA STRIKING TOURBILLON SAPPHIRE A CLASSIC WATCH IN ITS TWO CENTRAL HANDS TOURBILLON AT 6 O CLOCK AND M ANUAL WI ND I NG TH I S WOU LDN T BE A BVLGAR I WITHOUT SOME ROMAN FL AIR THE MOVEMENT IS COMPLE TELY SKELE TONIZED REDUCED TO ITS MOST SIMPLE EXPRESSION IT BATHES IN A SEA OF TRANSPARENCY INSIDE A SAPPHIRE CASE I I AU D E MARS PIG U ET CODE 11 59 STARWHEEL AUDEM ARS P I GUE T INTRODUCES ITS WANDER ING HOURS MOVEMENT TO THE CODE 11 59 COLLECTION HOURS ARE SHOWN BY MEANS OF THREE ROTATING DISCS ON A CENTRAL ROTOR THE CURRENT HOUR POINTS TO THE M INUTES ON A 120 DEGREE ARC THIS STARWHEEL IS CASED IN WHITE GOLD WITH BLACK CERAMIC FOR THE CASEBAND AND CROWN III HERM S ARCEAU LE TEMPS VOYAGEUR 38 TIME TR AVELS LITERALLY AROUND THE DIAL OF THIS ARCE AU WATCH ON A SATELLITE DISPL AY OF HOURS AND MINUTES HOME TIME IS SHOWN IN AN APERTURE AT 12 O CLOCK WHI LE LOCAL TI ME IS SE T BY PRESSING A PUSHER THAT ADVANCES THE SUBDIAL ALIGNING IT WITH ONE OF THE 24 CITIES REPRESENTING THE 24 TIME ZONES IIII RICHARD MILLE RM 66 FLYING TOURBILLON ONCE AGAIN RICHARD MILLE DISREGARDS CONVENTION WITH THE RM 66 IN ITS CENTRE AN X R AYED HAND MAKES THE HORNS SIGN ITS OUTSTRETCHED INDEX AND PINKY FINGERS ENSNARE THE MOVEMENT VISIBLE ON THE BACK THE LAST PHALANGE OF THE THUMB HOLDS DOWN THE MIDDLE AND RING FINGERS V CHOPARD ALPINE EAGLE CADENCE 8HF THE CHRONOMETERCERTIFIED CHOPARD 01 12 C MOVEMENT INSIDE THIS ALPINE E AGLE S 41M M T I TA N I U M CAS E RU N S AT 57 600 V I B R AT I O N S HOU R O R 8 HZ CHOPARD SUSTAINS THIS HIGH FREQUENCY BY USING MONOCRYSTALLINE SILICON A LIGHT SELF LUBRICATING MATERIAL FOR THE PALLET LEVER ESCAPE WHEEL AND IMPULSE PIN VI LONGINES ULTRA CHRON LONGINES REVIVES THE ULTR A CHRON THE FIRST HIGH FREQUENCY DIVE WATCH UNVEILED IN 1968 THE 43MM STEEL CASE OF THIS NEW INTERPRETATION IS WATER RESISTANT TO 300 METRES IT CONTAINS A 5HZ AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT THAT WAS DE VELOPED E XCLUSIVELY FOR LONGINES BY E TA

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61 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS 43 years of audacity Four decades after the first Hublot watch burst onto the scene the Classic Fusion Original is a reminder that watchmaking is also about breaking rules SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES There s always something to celebrate at Hublot especially after a record year and with plenty of exciting projects under way Proof of the former Hublot s parent group LVMH announced that revenue for its Watches Jewellery business group had increased by 18 in 2022 Examples of the latter include extension work at the brand s manufacturing facilities in Nyon Switzerland Two new buildings are being added to the site which when completed will employ over a thousand staff This can only mean one thing Hublot is on a roll What better time to focus attention on the origins of a brand that was established with the mission to shake up the watchmaking establishment Doing exactly that Hublot has released the Classic Fusion Original in three sizes 33 38 and 42mm and three materials namely yellow gold black ceramic and titanium When the Classic Fusion first launched in 1980 it was says the brand the watch that challenged conventions Refined and sporty its precious gold case on a simple rubber strap unthinkable at the time sent shockwaves through the world of fine watchmaking By winning over an audience of connoisseurs who were searching for different watch products it began a visionary momentum impelled by audacity When founder Carlo Crocco designed this first Hublot watch he was driven by a powerful idea to create a watch that would be practical and hardwearing simple and comfortable classic and sporty Everything about it the exposed titanium screws securing the bezel the minimalist black dial the pairing of gold with natural rubber pointed to a completely novel approach to luxury as well as laying the foundations for Hublot s Art of Fusion concept in the high end sports watch segment Back to the future So what s the picture 43 years later Speaking at the launch of this Classic Fusion Original in Singapore earlier in the year CEO Ricardo Guadalupe noted a trend towards watches that are classic but contemporary with a more understated design Introduced in 1980 the Classic Fusion is a clear match for this aesthetic which is why we are returning to this model having ceased production in 2005 Trends generally last longer in the watch industry than in fashion After almost twenty years it was time to come back to our roots This new HUBLOT CLASSIC FUSION ORIGINAL MERGING HIGH TECH COMPOSITES WITH PRECIOUS NATURAL MATERIALS WORKING WITH SECTORS AND PEOPLE WHO TRANSCEND OUR MOTTO TO BE FIRST UNIQUE AND DIFFERENT FORTY EXHILAR ATING YEARS HAVE SHAPED THESE CLASSIC FUSION ORIGINALS WE HAVE REDESIGNED THEM BECAUSE HUBLOT HAS CHANGED THEY EMBODY THESE REBELLIOUS ALLIANCES THAT MAKE US WHO WE ARE TODAY DECL ARES HUBLOT CEO RICARDO GUADALUPE HUBLOT BRINGS BACK THE WATCH THAT UP TURNED HOROLOGICAL CONVENTION ON ITS RELE ASE IN 1980 CLASSICAL WITH A MINIMALIST BLACK DIAL FRAMED BY A GOLD CASE AS WELL AS SPORT Y ON A RUBBER STR AP THIS COMBINATION interpretation of the 1980s Hublot watch also fits with a growing preference among watch wearers for smaller more refined styles The Classic Fusion Original echoes the inaugural design with the same rubber strap a polished and lacquered black dial swept by facetted hands and six screws on the bezel One difference is the more prominent Hublot logo at 12 o clock The movement for the 38mm and 42mm sizes is the automatic HUB1110 with 42 hours of power reserve while the smaller 33mm size is driven by a quartz movement Note that the Classic Fusion line also extends to a chronograph and moon phase versions including skeleton dial executions Among the various part nership models sculptor Richard Orlinski street artist Shepard Fairey and visual artist Takashi Murakami have given their interpretation of the Classic Fusion as part of the Hublot Loves Art concept Certain of these collaborations are also linked to NFTs proof that Hublot hasn t finished shaking up the watch world Eric Dumatin OF PRECIOUS METAL AND RUBBER WAS UNHEARD OF AT THE TIME THE CLASSIC FUSION ORIGINAL CELEBRATES THIS YOUTHFUL MATURITY WITH AGELESS SIMPLICIT Y ECHOES OF CARLO CROCCO S ORIGINAL DESIGN ARE RECOGNISABLE IN THE RUBBER STR AP THE PUR IT Y OF THE POLISHED BLACK LACQUERED DIAL SWEPT BY FACETTED HANDS THE YELLOW GOLD AND THE BRAND SIGNATURE SIMILAR TO THE ORIGINAL AT FIRST SIGHT THE LOGO HAS IN FACT BECOME MORE PROMINENT MORE CONTEMPOR ARY OVER TIME TODAY S CL ASSIC FUSION ORIGINAL IS AVAILABLE IN GOLD TITANIUM AND CERAMIC IN 42 38 AND 33MM SIZES SIX SCREWS PUT THEIR STAMP ON THE BEZEL WHILE A SAPPHIRE CASEBACK REVEALS THE MOVEMENT INSIDE

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES New horizons Introduced in 2022 the Defy Skyline is a futuristic addition to a range that Zenith debuted in 1969 A dynamic design is matched by the enhanced performance of the latest generation of high frequency El Primero movements Tapping into the trend for characterful sport watches Zenith is extending the Defy Skyline offering with a more structured more open more stellar skel etonized version A nod to Zenith s double Z logo from the 1960s the open dial takes the shape of a four pointed star Faceted and applied indi ces along with central hour and minute hands are filled with Super LumiNova for easy legibility in low light conditions At 6 o clock the one tenth of a second counter jumps in fixed incre ments completing one revolution every 10 seconds thanks to the 36 000 vibrations hour imprinted by the escapement of this skeleton movement which is clearly visible under the dial As Zenith reminds us this feature of the new generation El Primero automatic high frequency caliber is unique in watchmaking The movement is finished in the same black or blue color as the dial for a cohesive look Measuring 41mm in diameter the angular steel case borrows from the octagonal geometry of the early Defy models It retains the same robustness as its predecessors while the faceted bezel its twelve sides positioned as extensions of the hour mark ers brings an edgier architectural aesthetic Always with the emphasis on performance the screw down crown which is also emblazoned with the star symbol guarantees water resistance of 100 meters C R HI TECH WATCH YOUR TIME USA 62 compliant mechanism engineering As Wikipedia puts it In mechanical engineering a compliant mechanism is a flexible mechanism that achieves force and motion transmission through elastic body deformation It gains some or all of its motion from the relative flexibility of its members rather than from rigid body joints alone Girard Perregaux s Constant Force concept movement from 2013 was built around a silicon blade that like the paper ticket under stress has two states of equilibrium Feed energy into the system and it oscillates precisely and predictably between the two replacing the entire assembly of balance spring and pallets with a single component The revolution isn t quite complete as neither movement has made it into standard production as yet having failed to convince in terms of long term reliability though it s safe to assume the ideas will reappear It s this caution that s behind the seemingly glacial pace at which Omega and Rolex have integrated silicon technology into their production if you have production volumes in the 100 000s even marginal risks in performance are non starters Omega CEO Raynald Aeschlimann s perspective is that the last 20 years have actually been the most innovative in the company s history replying to my query with a list of advances that include new case alloys new amagnetic component materials the roll out of the Co Axial escapement silicon escapement parts a new chronometer certification standard new manufactures reduced servicing and longer warranties He has a point I II ZENITH DEFY SKYLINE SKELETON VISIBLE FROM THE FRONT AND THROUGH THE SAPPHIRE DISPLAY BACK THE 3620 SK IS THE SKELETONIZED VERSION OF THE HIGH FREQUENCY AUTOMATIC EL PRIMERO CALIBER BUILT WITH A SIMILAR ARCHITECTURE TO THE EL PRIMERO 3600 ONE TENTH OF A SECOND CHRONOGR APH THIS IN HOUSE MOVEMENT DRIVES THE ONETENTH OF A SECOND HAND DIRECTLY FROM THE ESCAPEMENT WHICH BE ATS AT 5HZ 36 000 VI BR ATIONS HOUR THUS M AK I NG IT A NATUR AL FR ACTION OF A SECOND I ND I CATION IT IS ALSO ENDOWED WITH A STOP SECOND MECHANISM FOR PRECISE TIME SETTING THE BI DIRECTIONAL STAR SHAPED ROTOR PROVIDES HIGHLY EFFICIENT AUTOMATIC WINDING FOR A POWER RESERVE OF APPROXIMATELY 60 HOURS III IIII I BULOVA MARINE STAR AUTO THE BULOVA MARINE STAR MEN S WATCH IS A CLASSIC TIMEPIECE WITH A LEGACY STRETCHING BACK DECADES THE OPEN HEARTBEAT AUTOMATIC 21 JEWEL MOVEMENT IS SHOWCASED IN THE DIAL APERTURE AND IN THE EXHIBITION CASE BACK THE STAINLESS STEEL CASE IS ACCENTED WITH BLUE II CITIZEN SATELLITE WAVE GPS FREEDOM THIS MODEL POWERED BY LIGHT IS THE WORLD S FASTEST TIMEKEEPING SIGNAL RECEPTION SPEED FROM GPS NAVIGATION A SLEEK BLACK ION PLATED STAINLESS STEEL CASE AND BRACELET FEATURES SATELLITE GPS TIMEKEEPING ECODRIVE TECHNOLOGY WITH WORLDWIDE RECEPTION AND TIME ADJUSTMENT IN 40 TIME ZONES III FREDERIQUE CONSTANT HIGHLIFE WORLDTIMER MANUFACTURE CELEBR ATING THE 35TH YE AR OF ITS JOURNEY FREDERIQUE CONSTANT PRESENTS THE HIGHLIFE WORLDTIMER MANUFACTURE IN A 41MM DIAME TER IN ROSE GOLD OR IN STEEL ALL THE INDICATIONS WHICH ARE DRIVEN BY THE IN HOUSE FC 718 AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT IIII ACCUTRON DNA WITH A SKELETON DIAL SHOWCASING THE PRECISION OF ACCUTRON S PROPRIETARY ELECTROSTATIC ENERGY MOVEMENT AND INTRICATELY ENGINEERED MOTOR AND TURBINE SYSTEM THE ACCUTRON DNA IS A LUXURY MEN S WATCH THE STAINLESS STEEL T WO TONE ROSE GOLD AND GRE Y WATCH FE ATURES A MUTED GREY DETAIL ON THE OUTER HOUR MINUTE RING

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63 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES On the wings of time Longines adds to its Longines Spirit collection with a flyback chronograph a complication it was already providing to intrepid aviators a century ago When it comes to heritage facts are more eloquent than words The horological history books contain the names of workshops and manufacturers that made a lasting impression on an era with their innovation and pioneering mindset Some continue to bring a unique dimension to this industrial activity Longines is one of them The notion of heritage has particular significance for the company which was founded in 1832 Behind every contemporary Longines watch lies a century and a half of history Longines has shown itself to be more than worthy of such a legacy Interviewed in February this year Matthias Breschan CEO since 2020 told Belgian daily Le Soir we will continue to build on our DNA of heritage tradition and elegance but these will evolve Vintage watches have exploded in popularity with interest strongest in models that are inspired by the past but can also demonstrate a genuine connection to the brand and its history This puts Longines in a strong position as the author of numerous technological breakthroughs such as high frequency mechanisms thanks to which it was already timing sporting events to one tenth of a second in 1914 and one hundredth of a second by 1916 We will be developing a series of exclusive in house movements inspired by this little known heritage continued Matthias Breschan The Longines Spirit Zulu Time that we launched in 2022 is equipped with a high end GMT caliber that benefits from the latest movement technology It s a way for us to tell people that Longines is the inventor of the first dual time zone movement in 1925 inside the first GMT wristwatch Modern technology Fans didn t have to wait long for the sequel Also part of the Longines Spirit collection that debuted in 2020 this year s release is a flyback chronograph that channels the conquering spirit of aviation s pioneers Like the dual time function Longines was an early adopter of the flyback function which stops resets and starts the chronograph hand without pausing the mechanism and with a single press on a pusher as opposed to the three separate actions required with a standard chronograph This complication is an intrinsic part of the brand s rich heritage says Longines which made is first flyback movement in 1925 A patent was filed in 1935 and registered the following year A practical tool for pilots who needed to make rapid navigation calculations while in flight the flyback quickly became an essential cockpit instrument Richard Byrd was one of the many intrepid aviators to put his trust in Longines In 1929 the U S Naval officer became the first person to fly over the South Pole a solar compass and a Longines watch guided him throughout the perilous nineteen hour journey Byrd undertook three more expeditions LONGINES SPIRIT FLYBACK THE LONGINES SPIRIT COLLECTION WELCOMES A CHRONOGR APH WITH FLYBACK FUNCTION IT HOUSES A NEW AND EXCLUSIVE MOVEMENT WITH AN ANTI MAGNETIC SILICON BALANCE SPRING CHRONOMETER CERTIFIED BY THE COSC THIS HIGHLY PRECISE MOVEMENT OFFERS A POWER RESERVE OF 68 HOURS A TRANSPARENT CASE BACK REVEALS THE FINE DETAILS OF THE CALIBER INCLUDING A PERSONALIZED OSCILLATING WEIGHT ENGRAVED WITH THE LONGINES SPIRIT GLOBE SYMBOL AND THE LONGINES FLYBACK NAME THIS NE W MODEL STANDS OUT FOR ITS REFINED AESTHETICS AND METICULOUS SATIN MATTE POLISHED AND ENGRAVED FINISHES IT FEATURES A BIDIRECTIONAL BEZEL to the Antarctic including one in 1939 during which he wore a Longines 13ZN wristwatch with a flyback function This historical pedigree isn t the only thing the Longines Spirit Flyback has going for it it also makes use of the latest technological develop ments in a proprietary movement that Longines developed with ETA its sister company within Swatch Group Housed inside the watch s 42mm stainless steel case Caliber L791 4 drives small seconds and a 30 minute subdial A silicon balance spring provides anti magnetic capabilities while power reserve extends to a comfortable 68 hours Beating at a rate of 28 800 vibrations hour and measuring eighths of a second the Longines Spirit Flyback has passed Contr le Officiel Suisse des Chronom tres COSC tests for superior preci sion A bidirectional rotating bezel with a ceramic insert along with Super LumiNova treatment for the hands and for the dial and bezel markers add to the practical functionality of this robust watch as do a water resistance rating of 100 metres and quick change straps The ideal instrument for modern day explorers Eric Dumatin WITH LUMINESCENT MARKERS ON THE BLACK CERAMIC INSERT SURROUNDING A BL ACK OR BLUE SUNR AY DIAL THE 42MM STEEL CASE IS WORN ON AN INTEGRATED STEEL BRACELET BROWN LEATHER STRAP OR NATO ST YLE FABRIC STR AP WHICH ARE ALL INTERCHANGE ABLE LONGINES FLYBACK CHRONOGR APH 1936 THIS IS THE FIRST SERIES PRODUCED CHRONOGR APH WITH A FLYBACK FUNCTION DRIVEN BY THE 13ZN CALIBER ONE OF THE MOST TECHNICALLY ADVANCED MOVEMENTS OF ITS DAY LONGINES FILED A PATENT FOR THE FLYBACK FUNCTION IN 1935 AWARDED IN 1936 THE BR AND CONTINUED TO PRODUCE FLYBACK CHRONOGR APHS INTO THE 1970S WHEN IT WAS TAKEN OVER BY THE FUTURE SWATCH GROUP

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES Time and music FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 64 Born in New York City in 1875 and with rich roots in American culture Bulova is a brand that takes the art of music to new levels in many of its timepieces and partnerships Always cutting edge Bulova was the first to introduce a clock radio in 1928 linking time and sound in a new and daring way It was also the first ever to advertise on radio in the United States and to sponsor classic radio programs clearly marking its support of changing times changing forms of communication and changing cultures In 1941 the brand became the first company to pay for advertising on television with an innovative time signal and hands on the screen and the words Bulova and Watch Time beneath it By the early 1950s Bulova was sponsoring a number of national network series including The Frank Sinatra Show and others The theme was always the same Bulova Watch Time In fact when the Beatles played their first American concert in Washington D C in 1964 above the amplifiers and Ringo s drum rises the neon clock that read B U L O V A Watch Time had a shining moment too Today in the spirit of its Bold at Heart campaign Bulova continues to emphasize music at the core of many of its collections Top among them is a collaboration with Latino singer actor and songwriter Marc Anthony that was formed in 2022 Anthony an unrivaled salsa artist and ambassador of Latin culture who has won multiple Grammy Awards Latin Grammy Awards and more formed a fouryear partnership with Bulova In late 2022 the fruits of their first collaboration for a bold at heart special collection of watches made their debut The Bulova X Marc Anthony series focuses on themes such as Stage Classic and Play with Bulova s most popular case silhouettes now endowed with edgy new colors and architecture There are subtle references to Anthony s work such as specially colored indexes and quotes from him on certain case backs A new Bold at Heart marketing campaign also launched and is now in full swing According to Anthony I love and will always love music but I have also been immersed for many years in the world of design painting and the arts in general The opportunity to work with a historic and innovative brand like Bulova allows me to create timepieces which has been a dream of mine since I appreciate the beauty and craftsmanship of a timepiece Partnership with Frank Sinatra Changing tempo somewhat Bulova also continues with its long standing nearly 75 year old relationship with famed Frank Sinatra The brand has been creating Bulova Frank Sinatra watches for a few years now but it recently expanded the collection with a new Rat Pack inspired watch The watch BULOVA FRANK SINATRA SUMMER WIND INCORPOR ATING VINTAGE BULOVA DESIGNS WITH THE ICONIC ELEMENTS OF THE LEGENDARY PERFORMER SUMMER WIND IS THE NEWEST ADDITION TO OUR COLLECTION OF TIMEPIECES THAT PAY TRIBUTE TO FR ANK SINATR A S MOST FAMOUS SONGS THIS COLLECTOR S WATCH HAS A CLASSIC ELEGANCE LIKE SINATR A HIMSELF AND FE ATURES A ROSE GOLD TONE STAINLESS STEEL CASE ROSE GOLD TONE HANDS AND MARKERS ON A DARK GR AY DIAL IT ALSO FEATURES A SELF WINDING 21 JEWEL AUTO like its name infers is inspired by the fun loving easy going style that the Rat Pack generally Sinatra Dean Martin and Sammy Davis Jr always exuded when performing together For this watch Bulova reinterpreted a 1960s piece from its archives but with a modern twist It boasts a black center dial with concentric circle patterns recalling vinyl records It also features the Rat Pack logo and the signatures of the three aforementioned singers on the case back This newest watch rounds out the Frank Sinatra collection now with 13 different pieces Aligning with amazing performers was not enough for music loving Bulova The brand takes its song to new heights by partnering with the famed Apollo Theater one of New York s most historic theaters Over the decades Aretha Franklin Ella Fitzgerald Sammy Davis Jr James Brown Ray Charles and so many others have performed at the Apollo Via this partnership Bulova creates The Apollo watch collection with the most recent Bulova X Apollo special editions reflecting the color logo and marquis of the famed and culturally significant theater Roberta Naas MATIC MOVEMENT WITH A 42 HOUR POWER RESERVE AND CALENDAR BULOVA RAT PACK LIMITED EDITION CAPTURE THE MAGIC OF THE GREATEST PERFORMERS OF ALL TIME INSPIRED BY THE ICONIC STYLES OF LEGENDARY CROONERS SAMMY DAVIS JR DEAN MARTIN AND FRANK SINATRA THE DIAL BALANCES THE DEEP NOTES OF A RADIANT BLACK CENTER WITH THE BRILLIANCE OF A GOLD OUTER RING POWERED BY A SELF WINDING MOVEMENT WITH 21 JEWELS AND A POWER RESERVE OF 42 HOURS

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 66 Master of materials Distinctive designs and innovative materials are at the heart of Rado ADRIAN BOSSHARD CEO RADO Rado certainly lives up to its philosophy that If we can imagine it we can make it And if we can make it we will Over the course of its centurylong history the brand has made its mark as one of the most creative in terms of design and one of the most advanced in its use of innovative materials in particular ceramic Established in 1917 in Longeau by the Schlup brothers Rado now employs 600 people with around half in Switzerland and half worldwide CEO Adrian Bosshard explains Our strengths are a unique design language embodied by the DiaStar and the Captain Cook whose 60th anniversaries we celebrated last year and our capacity to produce almost every single component in house We are the master of materials and this distinguishes us from other brands It s a definite asset This mastery is amply illustrated by the DiaStar1 Launched in 1962 and marketed as the world s first scratchproof watch it introduced hard metal and sapphire crystal to watch production But it would be another substance ceramic that became Rado s material of choice Over the years the brand would develop unparalleled expertise in the transformation of zirconium oxide powder and in the production of ceramic alloys and col ored ceramic a perilous exercise if ever there was Today ceramic has entered the horological mainstream but forty years ago in 1986 to be precise when Rado released its first ceramic watch the Rado Integral followed in 1990 by the Rado Ceramica it was nothing short of revolutionary This innovative material also served Rado s belief that design was a key element of its watches and that they should be given a distinctive aesthetic Innovation and design When it comes to ceramic Rado has raised the bar in terms of color choices and quality Alongside high tech ceramic in a vast palette of shades it proposes plasma high tech ceramic a material distinguished by its liquid metal appearance without containing even a speck of metal More recently Rado unveiled CeramosTM which it describes as a marriage of high tech ceramic and metal that offers the optimal properties of both components the lightness and durability of ceramic and the irresistible lustre of metal This material can says Rado be produced in a variety of colors including platinum gold and rose gold Another revolution This command of the high tech materials that make up its cases and bracelets shouldn t detract from the importance Rado places on the movements inside For this it can count on ETA which like Rado belongs to Swatch Group and its next generation movement production capabilities Earlier this year Rado unveiled two skeletonized models that expose their caliber like a kinetic artwork After the True Square Skeleton featuring a monobloc case and bracelet in high tech ceramic came the Captain Cook High Tech Ceramic Skeleton powered by the R808 movement with a balance spring in NivachronTM an anti magnetic titanium alloy and 80 hours of power reserve Adventure ready the case bezel insert and bracelet of this 300 metre water resistant watch are in plasma high tech ceramic Complementing these two releases the brand has introduced new versions of the Centrix In the brand s words It is no coincidence that this sensuous watch brings to mind the breathtak ing windswept beauty of the desert The potent mysterious grace of minerals and sand sculpted by time in shades of gold ochre and brown Such imagery is familiar ground for the gifted watchmaker inventing art from high tech ceramic sapphire crystal and precision movements What more can we say Eric Dumatin RADO CENTRIX THE LATEST CENTRIX IN STEEL FINISHED WITH A ROSE GOLD COLORED PVD TREATMENT SUGGEST THE WINDSWEPT BE AUT Y OF SAND DUNES IT COMES IN DIFFERENT SIZES IN SLIGHTLY LARGER MORE EXPRESSIVE DIMENSIONS THAN THE EARLIER LINE WITH A WIDER DIAL OPENING TOPPED BY A CRYSTAL THAT RUNS FULLY TO THE CASE EDGE HOURS ARE MARKED WITH 12 DIAMONDS ON THE FACETTED AND LACQUERED DIAL WORN ON AN INTEGRATED STEEL AND CERAMIC BRACELET IN 30 5MM AND 39 5MM DIAMETERS THE NEW CENTRIX IS PROOF THAT SIMPLICITY IS THE SOUL OF ELEGANCE R ADO CAPTAIN COOK HIGH TECH CER AMIC SKELETON R ADO RE AFFIRMS IT IS THE UNCONTESTED MASTER OF MATERIALS WITH THIS CASE IN PL ASMA HIGH TECH CER AMIC INSIDE IS A R ADO AUTOMATIC CALIBER R808 SKELETON MOVEMENT WITH NEW GEOMETRY AND COMPONENTS SHADED IN DIFFERENT TONES TO ALLOW A DISTINCT VIEW OF THE VARIOUS PARTS SPECIAL FINISHING TOUCHES INCLUDE A HORIZONTALLY BRUSHED MAIN PL ATE AND A ROSE GOLD COLORED MINUTE WHEEL BRIDGE THE MOVEMENT EQUIPPED WITH AN ANTIMAGNETIC NIVACHRONTM BAL ANCE SPRING HAS BEEN FULLY TESTED IN FIVE POSITIONS RATHER THAN THE USUAL THREE AND PROVIDES 80 HOURS OF POWER RESERVE THE DIAL ITSELF IS INTENTIONALLY SPARTAN WITH SIMPLE GEOMETRIC INDICES AND HANDS TREATED WITH SUPER LUMINOVA TO ENHANCE READABILITY IN LOW LIGHT CONDITIONS THE TITANIUM CASEBACK ALSO CARRIES A SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL FOR A CLEAR VIEW OF THE MOVEMENT WHILE THE SCREW IN CROWN IS FINISHED WITH THE RADO ANCHOR SYMBOL

Watch Your Time USA 2023

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