Watch Your Time Europe en 2022 : simplebooklet.com

EDITIONS TEMPS INTERNATIONAL LTD 2503 BANK OF AMERICA TOWER 12 HARCOURT ROAD CENTRAL HONG KONG EDITIONS TEMPS INTERNATIONAL COM EUROPE AN EDITION 2022 PUBLISHED SIMULTANEOUSLY WITH LE MONDE FR ANCE PRODUCED FOR THE DAILY TELEGR APH ON THURSDAY FR ANKFURTER ALLGEMEINE GERMANY SEP TEMBER 22 2022 BY EDITIONS TEMPS INTERNATIONAL IL SOLE 24 ORE ITALY EL MUNDO SPAIN WHO TAKE SOLE RESPONSIBILIT Y FOR THE CONTENTS 13 audemars piguet A 50 year reign 17 editorial Green wave 19 tag heuer Avant garde JAEGER LECOULTRE MEMOVOX TIMER SINCE ITS L AUNCH IN 1950 THE JAEGER LECOULTRE MEMOVOX HAS BECOME A REFERENCE FOR AL ARM WATCHES WITH THE ADDITION OF USEFUL AND INNOVATIVE FUNCTIONS THAT LED TO THE CRE ATION OF VARIOUS MEMOVOX MODELS OVER THE DECADES IN 2020 THE MANUFACTURE S ENGINEERS DE VELOPED A BR AND NEW AL ARM SE T TING MECHANISM THE MEMOVOX TIMER AF TER A FIRST MODEL IN STAINLESS STEEL JAEGER LECOULTRE IS PRESENTING A NEW INTERPRE TATION IN PINK GOLD THE TIMER ALLOWS THE WATCH S USER TO SE T THE AL ARM ACCORDING TO THE NUMBER OF HOURS THAT MUST PASS BEFORE IT RINGS THE USER CAN ALSO SE T THE AL ARM IN THE TR ADITIONAL WAY TO RING AT A PRECISE TIME THE T WO INDICATORS 21 chopard Tempo Virtuoso 24 hublot Success Story 26 cartier A vision of eternity ARE LINKED WHICHE VER ME THOD IS CHOSEN THE OTHER INDICATOR AUTOMATICALLY MOVES TO THE CORRESPONDING POSITION 28 SUSTAINABILITY Sustainable watchmaking CHRISTOPHE ROULET 31 panerai panerai Green energy 33 breguet Watchmaking excellence 36 rolex Preserving our planet with no time to lose 38 JEWELLERY Stroll in the Garden of Eden MARIE DE PIMODAN 40 chanel Premi re symphony 44 ECOLOGY Symbiosis with Mother Nature PALOMA RECIO 47 seiko A watchmaking consecration 49 Bvlgari Refined elegance 50 CERTIFICATION Let there be light David Bellemere David Bellemere was born and raised in Paris He discovered photography during his school years which led him to study visual arts after his baccalaureate While at university David caught the eye of various French magazines which commissioned him in his early 20s After graduation David decided to combine his two passions photography and Asia Over the next two years he travelled throughout Asia regarding his time there as the most in uential in his photographic style to this day David is recognized for his unique light colours and composition always celebrating beauty The adjectives most often used to describe his pictures are sensual delicate and feminine David currently contributes to the following magazines Vogue Paris Vogue China Vogue US Vogue Spain Vogue Turkey Marie Claire Italy Harpers Bazaar UK Muse Numero Paris Treats etc His commercial clients include Dior Lancel Rochas Lanvin Guerlain Azzaro Parfum Herm s Chanel Guess Ba sh Lancaster Maje Eres Victoria s Secret Charles Jourdan Zadig Voltaire Free People La Perla Net A Porter DAVID BELLEMERE PHOTOGRAPHER KADER BENNACER PHOTOGRAPHER ASSISTANT C LINE BOURREAU STYLIST CORINNE FOUET MAKE UP HAIR STYLIST CLOTHILDE MERCIER MODEL CORNELIA R AVIOT PRODUCTION STABLES HAR AS DU PATY HT TP DANY L AHAYE LUSITANO COM COVER CAMEL SUEDE SHIRT CLAUDIE PIERLOT BROWN FELT HAT STETSON HIGH WAISTED JEANS G RARD DAREL extend your international limited warranty for up to 8 years on panerai com PUBLISHER FOUNDER CHRISTIAN LL AVALL UBACH MANAGING DIRECTOR ISABELLE BOUDRINGHIN EDITIONS TEMPS INTERNATIONAL COM WATCH CONSULTANT ERIC DUMATIN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR CHRISTOPHE ROULET CONTRIBUTORS VINCENT DAVEAU FR ANCE MARIE DE PIMODAN SWITZERL AND PALOMA RECIO SPAIN PAOLO DE VECCHI ITALY TRANSLATORS AMA A TR ADUCTIONS GERMAN AND ENGLISH PAOLO DE VECCHI ITALIAN GIAN POZZY FRENCH PALOMA RECIO SPANISH PHOTOGRAPHER DAVID BELLEMERE ARTISTIC DIRECTOR VINCENT FESSELET GENEVA PHOTOENGRAVERS BOMBIE GENEVA PRINTED IN THE U E REPRODUCTION EVEN PARTIAL OF MATERIAL PUBLISHED IN WATCH YOUR TIME IS STRICTLY PROHIBITED ALL RIGHTS RESERVED IN THE U K AND OTHER COUNTRIES VINCENT DAVEAU 53 herm s Journey to the centre of time 55 richard mille The art of the Samurais 56 RECYCLING The ecology of time PAOLO DE VECCHI 59 louis vuitton With drums beating 61 longines 190 Years of innovation 63 jaeger lecoultre Space Odyssey 64 fr d rique constant Quiet strength 66 ulysse nardin Freak Co

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FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 13 A 50 year reign The Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet a watchmaking icon among icons is celebrating its half century of existence at the same time as Fran ois Henry Bennahmias ends his first decade at the head of the brand This double anniversary underlines the formidable success of an extraordinary watchmaker FR AN OIS HENRY BENNAHMIAS CEO OF AUDEMARS PIGUE T bvlgari Between Fran ois Henry Bennahmias CEO of Audemars Piguet and the Royal Oak the brand s icon the parallels practically leap out at you Here is a frank and robust watch with sporty elegance that managed to impose its style at once precious and casual in a world cruelly lacking in audacity And there is a frank and robust man previously a professional golfer who managed to impose his style at once direct and casual in a world where his outspokenness clearly proved an exception And by a quirk of the calendar the man and the watch both pass important milestones this year 2022 The Royal Oak is celebrating its half century of existence having reaf rmed year after year its status as an essential watchmaking icon while Fran ois Henry Bennahmias celebrates his ten years at the helm of a brand that he joined in 1994 A brand that he has masterfully guided to a place in the top four Swiss watchmaking companies if we refer to the latest ranking established by the American bank Morgan Stanley the company in 2012 turnover stood at around 600 million francs A simple detour via the Vall e de Joux offers a glimpse of this formidable progress with a brand in the process of building a small watchmaking empire on its historical place of residence in Le Brassus It could be said that it all began with the Mus e Atelier a futuristic and sustainable project started in 2012 The H tel des Horlogers nearing completion was next in line before manufacturing needs also gave rise to a construction programme a new production unit in Le Locle for complicated watch calibres and an extension to the Forges Manufacture known as L Arc currently under way In all an additional 27 000 m2 or four football elds completely self nanced long established know how announced a new era in Haute Horlogerie in phase with fundamentally changing lifestyles declares the brand Over the years the Royal Oak has thus given life to a collection all its own numbering over 500 models to date For an independent brand that knew no god or master other than Chronos the father of the Hours the success was patent largely con rmed by Morgan Stanley who considered the brand to be one of the best performing watchmaking brands with a 2021 turnover estimated at 1 6 billion Swiss francs up by 40 compared with 2020 When Fran ois Henry Bennahmias took over the reins of The evolution of the Royal Oak It hardly need be said that the Royal Oak designed by G rald Genta and launched in 1972 played a large part in the success seen under Fran ois Henry Bennahmias leadership today accounting for a dominant share of sales Audacious even iconoclastic in its beginnings with its stainless steel case housing an extra thin automatic movement its octagonal bezel xed by means of visible hexagonal screws and its built in stainless steel bracelet the Royal Oak became known as the archetypal sporty chic watch Inspired by the cultural and industrial revolution of the 1970s unveiled as the quartz crisis arrived this watch marrying a sporty character with For its fty years while there was certainly no question of modifying the watch s characteristic traits it has nonetheless seen a new development in its design Conserving the model s original 1972 aesthetic features the Royal Oak s new references have adopted slight alterations to the case dial and bracelet bringing the collection rmly into the modern era explains Audemars Piguet Also on the menu for this jubilee new Manufacture calibres and an oscillating weight specially developed for this anniversary which will equip the majority of the new models to be brought out by the brand over the year We consider these fty years not as a nishing line but rather as a transition for a brand that was founded 147 years ago but continues to live its second youth comments Fran ois Henry Bennahmias There is just so much to do with regard to adaptation to the digital world customer experience and the distribution network which we seek to make more and more selective The aim is always to do our best for the client while yielding nothing of the informality so characteristic of Audemars Piguet A recipe that brings joy over the centuries Eric Dumatin AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK 50TH ANNIVERSARY AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK JUMBO EXTRA THIN OPENWORKED 39 AUDEMARS THEM TO THE FREE SPIRIT OF THE ROYAL OAK THE MODEL IN 18 CT PINK GOLD THE FLYBACK CHRONOGR APH CALIBRE 4401 HAS JUST POWERED THE 41 MM PIGUET IS INTRODUCING A NEW GENER ATION OF THE ROYAL OAK JUMBO EXTR A MARRIES OPENWORKED BRIDGES AND A SL ATE COLOURED PL ATE WITH A LIGHT ROYAL OAK IN STAINLESS STEEL FOR THE FIRST TIME THIS MOVEMENT OFFERS THIN OPENWORKED MODEL CELEBR ATING THE ROYAL OAK S 50TH ANNIVER GREY SKELETONIZED BARREL AT 11 O CLOCK WHICH REVEALS THE MAIN SPRING IMPROVED CHRONOME TRY AND AN INSTANTLY JUMPING DATE FOR GRE ATER SARY AVAIL ABLE IN STAINLESS STEEL AND 18 CT PINK GOLD VERSIONS THESE THE WATCH S PRINCIPAL SOURCE OF ENERGY MOREOVER THE BARREL ECHOES E ASE OF USE IT IS ALSO EQUIPPED WITH A VERTICAL COUPLING SYSTEM AND A TIMEPIECES ARE FIT TED WITH THE MANUFACTURE S NEW E XTR A THIN SKELE THE HEX AGONAL SCREWS IN GREY GOLD THAT AT TACH THE BEZEL TO THE CASE BUILT IN COLUMN WHEEL THE MOVEMENT IS VISIBLE THROUGH THE SAPPHIRE TONIZED AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT THE CALIBRE 7124 AND THE ANNIVERSARY CRE ATING CONTR AST THE GILDED BAL ANCE WHEEL AND GE AR TR AIN ALONG CASE BACK WHICH RE VE ALS THE ME TICULOUS DECOR ATION OF THE COMPO OSCILL ATING WEIGHT VISIBLE THROUGH THE SAPPHIRE CASE BACK THE CON WITH THE HANDS AND MARKERS IN PINK GOLD ADD DEP TH AND LIGHT TO THE NENTS POLISHED CHAMFERS VERTICAL SATIN FINISHING GENE VA RIBBING TEMPOR ARY AESTHE TICS OF THIS TIMEPIECE ILLUSTR ATE THE CRE ATIVIT Y OF WATCH THE OSCILL ATING WEIGHT IN 22 CT PINK GOLD DEDICATED TO THE COL GR AINING AND BE VELLING AUDEMARS PIGUET IN REINTERPRETING ANCESTR AL TECHNIQUES AND ADAPTING LECTION S 50 YE ARS REPRODUCES THIS CONTR AST AT THE BACK OF THE WATCH

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EDITORIAL WATCH YOUR TIME 17 Green wave richard mille LA PERFORMANCE M CANIQUE POUSS E L EXTR ME O ver the last few decades contemporary watchmaking has ingeniously transformed the watch a common everyday object into a symbol of expertise capable of fostering creativity and letting us keep dreaming But today the watchmaking brands want to take things further In other words the product however perfect it may be is no longer enough Nowadays it is the brand that counts and therefore its desire to present a responsible pro le in line with preoccupations of the century The environment in which we live has seen an evolution that is suf ciently alarming to demand prompt action At all levels And especially at the industrial level If it seems obvious that timepieces convey a sense of eternity intrinsically conceived as highly sustainable products there is no doubt that the materials used particularly the gemstones and precious metals along with the means of production product packaging and the promotion campaigns have become indispensable factors to take into consideration where the objectives of sustainable development are concerned In this context one can only welcome the initiatives that are beginning to hatch The Fashion Pact initiated in 2019 comes to mind a pact that now involves around sixty rms owners of more than 250 brands in a three pronged campaign the ght against global warming the restoration of biodiversity and the protection of the oceans Out of this came the Watch Jewellery Initiative of cially launched in Geneva during the Watches and Wonders 2022 trade fair Under the guidance of the Kering and Richemont groups via Cartier this initiative takes on board ambitious scienti cally determined climate objectives with measures aimed at protecting biodiversity and a desire to promote innovation as a partial solution to the problems Chanel and Montblanc have already joined Cartier and the Kering group brands namely Gucci Watches Boucheron Pomellato Dodo and Qeelin This initiative which seeks to federate the industry majors in order to have a maximum impact must not however mask the determination of each brand to add its own stone to the edi ce Here we think of the recycling of materials at Panerai and Ulysse Nardin and Rolex s Perpetual Planet IN THE MIDST OF BLUE SHARKS ULYSSE NARDIN PARTNER FRED BUYLE TAGS MARINE ANIMALS IN THEIR NATUR AL HABITAT USING NON INVASIVE TECHNIQUES HE DR AWS ON HIS UNDERWATER PHOTOGR APHY AND FREEDIVING SKILLS TO CHANGE THE WAY WE PERCEIVE THE OCE ANS project a programme that supports initiatives helping to push back the frontiers of knowledge improve living conditions and protect the environment we also think of the carbon neutrality at Oris and of the advances made towards replacing animal leather with new plant based materials at Cartier IWC and Herm s and then there are Chopard s ethical gold Hublot s provision of aid to scienti c expeditions Blancpain s creation of protected ocean zones Carl F Bucherer s saving of species Breguet s support for efforts in tackling the plastic pollution of the oceans etc It would be impossible to list them all here these sustainable decisions show that today s watchmakers are committed to a social and environmental path dictated particularly by a moral obligation towards the client and their responsibility as luxury sector players leading the way Given the sheer scale of the tasks to be accomplished in order to leave future generations with a world that can still awaken dreams watch on wrist it is certainly just the beginning of a long winded process necessarily destined to gain momentum But the scene has been set The green wave is an incoming tide Christophe Roulet HUBLOT BECOMES THE PARTNER OF THE POL AR POD E XPEDITION A ZERO EMISSION ECOLOGICAL VESSEL DESIGNED BY E XPLORER JE AN LOUIS E TIENNE TO E XPLORE THE SOUTHERN OCE AN WHICH SURROUNDS ANTARCTICA IT IS THE PL ANE T S MAIN OCE ANIC CARBON SINK AND A GIGANTIC RESERVOIR OF MARINE BIODIVERSIT Y THAT IS STILL POORLY UNDERSTOOD

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FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 19 Avant garde TAG Heuer caused a stir at the last Watches and Wonders trade fair with synthetic diamonds and a solar powered movement In keeping with the initials included in the brand name which stand for Avant Garde Technologies Time travels the world FR D RIC ARNAULT CEO OF TAG HEUER herm s ARCE AU LE TEMPS VOYAGEUR TIME A HERM S OBJECT TAG Heuer takes a delight in coming up with surprises Those that catch you unprepared or even make you start We have already seen ample proof of this notably in 2016 with the rst TAG Heuer Carrera equipped with the Heuer 02T movement an industrial tourbillon positioned in a highly competitive segment And again in 2015 when partnerships were concluded with Google and Intel for the launch of Switzerland s rst connected watch currently one of the only credible alternatives to the models produced by the leisure electronics giants TAG Heuer couldn t reasonably stop at that At the Watches and Wonders trade fair in Geneva the brand pulled off another stunt just where it was least expected in the elds of synthetic stones and solar energy A feat that once again con rms the brand s pioneering spirit and its attachment to the innovation quality and performance that have been its strength since 1860 It was thus with a gem set watch that TAG Heuer created the sensation in Geneva Already original if we consider the world of a brand that exudes an odour of good engine oil with a race counter in place of the palpitater In other words the image that springs to mind is rather that of Steve McQueen running towards his Porsche in his racing suit this car rm having been a partner of the brand since 2021 than that of a diva in evening dress This is why it was a TAG Heuer Carrera the brand s emblematic chronograph since 1963 that was chosen for this conspicuous From the land to the sea In concrete terms the synthetic diamonds used here are obtained by chemical vapour deposition technology that involves the use of high pressure and temperature to obtain diamond growth from a gaseous mixture containing precursors of carbon and hydrogen Consequently thanks to this type of stone we can innovate and experiment with this exceptional material which opens up a new eld of possibilities for the designers watchmakers and engineers declares Edouard Mignon chief innovation of cer with TAG Heuer and for LVMH s Watches Jewellery division Thus the case in anodized aluminium is gem set in a completely new way while the crown is entirely sculpted from a block of diamond The dial one of the principal features of this model is made of polycrystalline diamond consisting of crystals fashioned in successive layers to create a unique morphology In another characteristic feature the watch is equipped with the Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph calibre with a balance spring in carbon coming from the same manufacturing process as the laboratory diamonds But if TAG Heuer deliberately looks to the future on questions of technology it nonetheless keeps both feet on the ground with its TAG Heuer Aquaracer collection devoted to sport and outdoor adventure which has been one of the brand s elds of predilection for more than 40 years Having given a new lease of life to its TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 in 2021 the brand continued its re ection this year with the Professional 200 in order to ensure a strong presence in the chic and shock outdoor watch market segment which is currently the rage And here too once again the brand managed to come up with a surprising proposition its TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph This new model represents an important step for TAG Heuer because it is the brand s rst timepiece to use the solar calibre TH50 00 developed and manufactured exclusively for TAG Heuer by La Joux Perret based in La Chaux de Fonds adds Fr d ric Arnault With regard to performance TAG Heuer has pulled off a major success An exposure of barely two minutes in full sunshine or under arti cial light suf ces to power the watch for a whole day Even better once fully recharged after 20 hours of exposure the watch can run for six months Enough to take on the most extreme challenges Eric Dumatin TAG HEUE R CARRER A PL ASMA THE NE W TAG HEUER CARRER A PL ASMA IS TAG HEUER AQUAR ACER PROFESSIONAL 200 SOLARGR APH THE STORY OF THE UNIDIRECTIONAL ROTATING BE ZEL A SCREWED CROWN WATER RESISTANCE DISTINGUISHED BY THE CHOICE OF L ABOR ATORY DIAMONDS TO ADORN THE AQUAR ACER BEGAN IN 1978 WHEN JACK HEUER L AUNCHED THE HEUER REFER TO A DEP TH OF AT LE AST 200 METRES LUMINOUS MARKINGS A SAPPHIRE GL ASS MODEL THIS TECHNOLOGY MAKES NEW DESIGNS AND PL AYING WITH INNOVA ENCE 844 ALRE ADY ORIENTED TOWARDS A SPORT Y CLIENTELE DESIGNED FOR AND A DOUBLY SECURED CL ASP FOR THIS NEW AQUAR ACER PROFESSIONAL 200 TIVE MATERIALS POSSIBLE THE DIAL IN POLYCRYSTALLINE DIAMOND IS ONE OF THOSE WHO APPRECIATE SPORT AND THE GRE AT OUTDOORS WHE THER ON SOL ARGR APH WATCH THE BR AND PROPOSES A SOL AR POWERED MOVEMENT THE MA JOR CHAR ACTERISTICS OF THIS WATCH ON THE PL ATE OF THE DIAL THE L AND OR ON THE WATER THIS WATCH PAVED THE WAY FOR A NEW CATEGORY OF AND THE LUMINESCENT ELEMENTS PRESENT ON THE WATCH ARE ALSO CHARGED CRYSTALS FORMED IN SUCCESSIVE L AYERS CRE ATE A DIAMOND EFFECT THAT HIGH PERFORMANCE AND VERSATILE WRIST WATCHES RELIABLE IN ALL CONDI UP BY THE SUNLIGHT THE BE ZEL DIAL AND HANDS ARE IN FACT COATED WITH GIVES IT A UNIQUE AND NOVEL MORPHOLOGY THE WATCH IS EQUIPPED WITH TIONS E VEN THE MOST E XTREME THE AQUAR ACER NAME WAS ADDED IN 2004 SUPER LUMINOVA GUAR ANTEEING OP TIMAL RE ADABILIT Y EVEN AT NIGHT FOR THE COSC CERTIFIED HEUER 02 TOURBILLON NANOGR APH MOVEMENT WITH A PROLONGING THE HERITAGE OF THE R ANGE S SIX DISTINGUISHING TR AITS A THOSE WHO ENJOY NOCTURNAL ADVENTURES BAL ANCE SPRING IN CARBON FIBRE incursion into the world of laboratory diamonds with the new TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma A major turning point in both the company s history and that of the watchmaking industry exclaims Fr d ric Arnault CEO of TAG Heuer since July 2020 This revolutionary technology allows full control of design of both light play and materials while the versatility of the synthetic diamonds opens up possibilities for creativity without limit

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FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 21 Tempo Virtuoso For the 25th anniversary of the Chopard Manufacture the brand is presenting a trio of exceptional musical pieces the culmination of two decades of watchmaking art K ARL FRIEDRICH SCHEUFELE CO PRESIDENT OF CHOPARD jaeger REVERSO TRIBUTE It was during Duba Watch Week towards the end of 2016 and everyone present still recalls the event Hardly disembarked from the aeroplane Karl Friedrich Scheufele held an informal meeting to unveil the latest addition to the L U C collection Obviously we are not talking about any watch In that year of the 20th anniversary of the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier the brand s co president had laid the foundations announcing a truly exceptional watch And so it was that Karl Friedrich Scheufele a man of his word and of unstoppable enthusiasm arrived in the Arab Emirates at the last minute to present the fruit of six years of work involving 1 700 hours of development namely the L U C Full Strike a minute repeater timepiece as innovative in its construction as it was exceptional in the sound it produced A revelation for all present a matter of course for the profession A few months later the Chopard L U C Full Strike won the Aiguille d Or the supreme award of the Grand Prix d Horlogerie de Gen ve for a watch combining the best in expertise inventiveness and quality the hallmarks of the L U C collection This piece could have been considered an end objective with its numerous innovations four of which were patented The most radical of these changes had truly changed the technical paradigm of striking watches as described by Chopard In other existing minute repeaters the sound is generated by a hammer that strikes metal gongs forming part of the movement The Chopard Manufacture s L U C 08 01 L calibre goes beyond this construction with gongs in sapphire separated from the movement and forming one with the glass that covers the dial Indeed the gongs and glass form a single unit free of any discontinuity glue or weld machined from a block of solid sapphire However perfect it may be the L U C Full Strike watch was only a rst step In other words Karl Friedrich Scheufele had no intention of leaving it at that A new anniversary that of the Chopard Manufacture s 25 years provided the occasion for taking the concept one step further And so this year a little late owing to the pandemic the brand is presenting a remarkable trilogy of striking watches which Chopard considers to be the ultimate in watchmaking complications combining technicality craftsmanship and emotion The vibration of passion These timepieces were ready in 2021 the year of Chopard Manufacture s 25th anniversary points out Karl Friedrich Scheufele with a programme of events in honour of this jubilee Obviously however we had to postpone this launch which therefore took place at the last Watches and Wonders trade fair in Geneva Where the watches were concerned my idea was to produce a completely transparent Full Strike with a case in sapphire the ultimate Holy Grail in my view Our next thought was that it would be fantastic to build a tourbillon regulator into this same minute repeater movement Finally came the idea of applying the expertise gained with the Full Strike to a new gen eration of striking watches accompanying with the L U C Strike One So in a way we have come full circle in that this watch was the very rst musical watch presented by Chopard in 2006 And so came the birth of this trilogy of watches with which Karl Friedrich Scheufele took the quest for perfection to its pinnacle Not only are all three pieces stamped with the Geneva Seal one of the most demanding labels in Swiss watchmaking and certi ed for their precision by the Of cial Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute or COSC for Contr le of ciel suisse des chronom tres but they also bene ted from the expertise of virtuoso musicians in their conception At Karl Friedrich Scheufele s invitation the Capu on brothers Renaud and Gauthier respectively violinist and cellist both of international repute took part in the concoction of the sound to give these watchmaking masterpieces the emotion of a Guarneri violin like the one in fact played by Renaud Capu on This approach then received the approval of the applied acoustics laboratory of the HEPIA engineering school in Geneva whose director Professor Romain Boulandet created an analysing program that goes beyond purely measurable criteria by incorporating the notion of perception of the sound Chopard s conclusion Purer more sustained and more harmonious than the sound of traditional repeater mechanisms in metal the sound produced by Chopard s sapphire gongs includes a living vibration that of passion Eric Dumatin CHOPARD ALPINE E AGLE FLYING TOURBILLON CHOPARD S ALPINE E AGLE CHOPARD L U C FULL STRIKE SAPPHIRE SINCE 1996 THE CHOPARD MANUFAC TIFICATION STAMPS OF A CHRONOME TER AND IN ADDITION THE CASE CROWN COLLECTION DISPL AYS A CONTEMPOR ARY SPORT Y CHIC TENDENCY AF TER A TURE HAS BEEN RE ALIZING THE VISIONARY CONCEP TION OF K ARL FRIEDRICH AND DIAL OF THIS NE W L U C FULL STRI KE MODEL ARE ENTIRELY CUT FROM FLYBACK CHRONOGR APH MOVEMENT AND A HIGH FREQUENCY CALIBRE ALPINE SCHEUFELE THE BR AND S CO PRESIDENT 25 YE ARS AF TER THE PRESENTATION BLOCKS OF SAPPHIRE 42 5 MM IN DIAME TER AND TOTALLY TR ANSPARENT THE E AGLE IS E XTENDING ITS R ANGE OF COMPLICATIONS WITH A FLYING TOURBIL OF ITS FIRST TIMEPIECE THE MANUFACTURE OFFERS AN EXHAUSTIVE R ANGE COV CASE OFFERS A 360 DEGREE VIEW OF THE MOVEMENT AND ITS E XCEP TIONAL LON MODEL WITH A DEP TH OF JUST 3 30 MM THE L U C 96 24 L DRIVES ONE ERING ALL THE WATCHMAKING COMPLICATIONS ENTIRELY PRODUCED IN HOUSE FINISHES FURTHERMORE THE WATCH HAS BEEN CERTIFIED WITH THE GENE VA OF THE VERY FE W FLYING TOURBILLON WATCHES TO BE DOUBLY CERTIFIED WITH A COMBINATION OF TR ADITION AND INNOVATION FOR THE 25TH ANNIVER SE AL A FIRST FOR A NON ME TALLIC TIMEPIECE ENDORSED BY THE VIRTUOSO C O S C AND GENE VA SE AL ITS 41 MM CASE WITH AN INTEGR ATED BR ACELE T SARY OF ITS L U C COLLECTION CHOPARD HAS CONCEIVED A TR ANSPARENT BROTHERS RENAUD AND GAUTIER CAPU ON ITS ACOUSTIC PROPERTIES DISPL AY IS OF LUCENT STEEL A223 AN E XCLUSIVE AND ULTR A RESISTANT ALLOY THAT TIMEPIECE WITHOUT RIVAL AND FOR THE SECOND TIME IN FIVE YE ARS RE VOLU AN E XCEP TIONAL DEGREE OF QUALIT Y IS REMARK ABLY SHINY TIONIZED THE MINUTE REPE ATER THE L U C 08 01 L CALIBRE BE ARS THE CER

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24 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS A Success Story Hublot keeps extending the walls of its Manufacture Two new buildings will be added to the two existing structures In order to give The Art of Fusion all the space it needs RICARDO GUADALUPE CEO OF HUBLOT tag At Hublot we aim high and we see big With its The Art of Fusion concept the brand has repeatedly disproved the maxim asserting that everything has been said and done in watchmaking A simple detour via the Manufacture in Nyon on the shore of Lake Geneva suf ces to be convinced For it is here that the watchmaking materials of the future and the production systems capable of handling them are being concocted to meet the challenge posed by each ingenious feature proposed by Matthias Buttet manager of the Research and Development department It is here too that little marvels are concocted like the very latest Big Bang Integral Cathedral Minute Repeater entirely made of ceramic a world rst or the famous tourbillon MP 05 LaFerrari tted with 11 barrels assembled in series to provide an exceptional power reserve of 50 days another rst For ten years now I ve had the opportunity and the pleasure of being CEO at Hublot and managing an exceptional brand explains Ricardo Guadalupe In that respect the acquisition of the brand by LVMH was a great moment in my career because we reaped the fruit of our efforts These ten years have been a unique experience that of playing a part in the success of an exclusive brand turning it into a reference in the watchmaking industry The epithet exclusive is an outdated notion where Hublot is concerned given that its annual watch production has now passed the 70 000 mark Indeed the success has been so phenomenal that the Manufacture hasn t stopped extending its walls Founded in 1980 and established in Nyon since 2009 Hublot quickly felt cramped in its rst factory so much so that a second was erected ve years later a stone s throw from the rst A few years later the problem was back So in 2025 a third building with a total surface area roughly equivalent to that of the other two will be added then a fourth to form Hublot City a real manufacturing complex a few kilometres from Geneva The start of this new construction phase is planned for the beginning of 2023 From adventure to adventure If Hublot has known such a trajectory which has already propelled it to a place among the leaders in Swiss watchmaking it is also indeed above all because the brand is everywhere Based on the principle that Hublot customers are eclectic enthusiasts the brand followed them along every negotiable pathway even the most improbable Is football too common a sport to be of interest to a luxury brand Hublot championed the sport But perhaps the football fan is also a cultivated music lover So Hublot took a seat at the piano alongside Lang Lang when the brand wasn t at the turntables with DJ Snake Nothing or virtually nothing seems to escape the hankerings of a watchmaker who adores street art and gastronomy sailing and cigars tattoos and rhinoceroses etc The latest partnership to date the one forged with Polar Pod an extraordinary adventure led by the explorer Jean Louis Etienne on board a revolutionary ecological vessel which will explore the Antarctic Ocean that encircles the polar continent But for convincing appeal good intentions are not enough The dream must have substance to nourish it And in this respect Hublot has no shortage of ready replies As seen in the excellent panorama of new products presented at Watches and Wonders including in particular the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire which once again provides proof that Hublot is the leading producer of sapphire watches and the only watchmaker to propose its watches with tinted sapphires Just as it is the only one to produce ceramics in bright colours The brand was also one of the few present at the trade fair bold enough to offer a new collection That of the Square Bang Unico a square watch that inaugurates a brand new geometric form for the Manufacture The square watch now there s a polarizing disruptive unconventional shape that no one has managed to revive in decades points out Ricardo Guadalupe It was just waiting for us Indeed with this new model Hublot has once again created a surprise Which is in fact what Eric Dumatin the brand loves doing most of all HUBLOT SQUARE BANG UNICO WITH THIS SQUARE BANG UNICO HUBLOT UNVEILS HUBLOT BIG BANG TOURBILLON AUTOMATIC PURPLE SAPPHIRE THOSE WHO UNEQUALLED KNOW HOW CONCERNING SAPPHIRE IN THE WATCHMAKING INDUS ITS INTERPRE TATION OF THE SQUARE WATCH INSPIRED BY THE BIG BANG THE THOUGHT THAT THE OR ANGE SAPPHIRE VERSION OF THE PRECEDING BIG BANG TRY HUBLOT HAS CAPITALIZED ON THE FIF TEEN YE ARS SPENT DEVELOPING THE BR AND S EMBLEMATIC WATCH FOR THIS MODEL HUBLOT OP TED FOR TR ANS TOURBILLON AUTOMATIC WAS A FINAL OUTCOME WERE ON THE WRONG TR ACK TOURBILLON FOR A MOVEMENT THAT IS PROPOSED WITH AUTOMATIC WINDING BY PARENCY IN ORDER TO RE VE AL ITS ROUND UNICO BI COMPA X CHRONOGR APH INNOVATION ISN T A DESTINATION AT HUBLOT IT S A CONSTANT QUEST AND A STATE ME ANS OF A MICRO ROTOR PERFECTLY INTEGR ATED INTO THE FACE SIDE OF THE MOVEMENT MOUNTED ON A SQUARE MAIN PL ATE THE CASE IS OF MODUL AR CON OF MIND THAT HAS BEEN DRIVING HUBLOT FOR MORE THAN 40 YE ARS WITH THE MOVEMENT AND A POWER RESERVE OF 72 HOURS THIS CONSTRUCTION OPENS UP STRUCTION WITH A CENTR AL CONTAINER HAVING UPPER AND LOWER PLATES THAT NEW BIG BANG TOURBILLON AUTOMATIC PURPLE SAPPHIRE HUBLOT UNVEILS A A GOOD VIEW OF THE MOVEMENT WHILE ENSURING PERFECT HARMONY BET WEEN OFFER MULTIPLE COMBINATIONS THE DIAL WITH ITS SANDWICH CONSTRUC NEW ITER ATION OF THE SYNTHETIC SAPPHIRE THIS TIME IN TR ANSLUCENT VIOLET THE ROTOR AND THE TOURBILLON THE AIRY EFFECT OF THE MOVEMENT IS ACCEN TION GIVES THE WATCH A VERY ARCHITECTUR AL STRUCTURE A NEW WORLD FIRST WITH THIS CASE THE BR AND CONFIRMS ONCE MORE ITS TUATED BY A THOROUGHLY OPENWORKED AND M ICROBL ASTED MAIN PL ATE

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At Cartier the number of innovations is matched only by the strength of their appeal A desirability that touches all generations associated with a design culture masterfully cultivated over more than a century ARNAUD CARRE Z SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT CHIEF MARKE TING OFFICER CARTIER INTERNATIONAL For Cartier time is a playground The brand couldn t put it better During the last Watches and Wonders trade fair in Geneva last spring Cartier ran a new demonstration with all the panache that we have come to know of the brand Take a Coussin watch But wait not just any one No a Coussin watch from the new Cartier collection with all the appearance of a jewel fully paved with coloured stones Nothing out of the ordinary one might say beyond the preciousness of the object except that when you handle it you nd that the case is soft and exible like a squeezable marshmallow between the ngers The secret This sensory watch developed by the Cartier Manufacture s research and innovation laboratory is in fact composed of gold mesh that interlinks to weave a squared framework into which Cartier has built an innovative element This enables the case to deform and expand again to resume its original form The dif culty of this work unprecedented at Cartier is exacerbated by the wide variety of diameters and shades of the stones It is further complicated by the fact that the watch is exible obliging the gem setter to use a resin to immobilize it to begin with before later freeing it up Hardly have the surprise and sense of wonder subsided when another truly staggering piece makes its appearance marrying transparency with kinetic art Its name Cartier Masse Myst rieuse Its concept combines two of the brand s watchmaking signatures the mysterious movement which appeared in Cartier clocks during the decade that followed 1910 and skeletonization However the brand didn t just content itself with this simple combination After eight years of development it presents the 9801 MC calibre which has set itself apart by gathering all its components within the watch s skeletonized oscillating weight making this assembly appear to oat weightless while indeed compensating for the effects of the earth s gravity on the timekeeping In the centre an ultra sophisticated differential system borrowed from the car industry has been built into the movement to prevent the time display from being displaced by the weight the brand explains A technical feat that comes to life on the least movement made by the wearer and displays the passing hours which are depicted by the hands hovering in empty space Technically it is the most complex piece ever proposed by the Cartier Manufacture The design culture With such jewels in its range is it surprising that Cartier is consolidating its no 2 position among world watchmaking brands Thanks to the strategy put in place by Cyrille Vigneron since he took charge at Cartier six years ago the brand s appeal has steadily grown points out Arnaud Carrez senior vice president and chief marketing of cer of Cartier International To its credit Cartier can indeed count on its watchmaking heritage of legendary models where technology has always been at the service of design and not the other way round Shaped watches elegant watches often for women but not only watches of harmonious proportions these are the models that the brand decided to build on with the design culture as a key concept that will af rm itself more and more as the new collections emerge If technological haute horlogerie once clearly championed by the Manufacture continues to provoke discussion with exceptional watches like the Masse Myst rieuse it has been scaled down to preserve the exclusive character peculiar to the brand Undeniably Cartier has managed to design objects that have lasted over the ages at once instantly recognizable and bearers of the brand s heritage They all share a vision that is seen in the purity of outline precision of form harmony of proportions and preciousness of detail In the watchmaking world such are the qualities of Cartier s Tank Santos Panth re and Ballon Bleu to cite just a few models They all indeed share pure contours that make them immediately readable as well as proportions whose original balance left plenty of scope for new interpretations without risk of distortion As for the shape neat and precise it gives the movement and depth required to every detail This alchemy has produced objects that generate emotion and display an evident intelligence of design from the dawning of the wristwatch to the present day Eric Dumatin COUSSIN DE CARTIER FOR CARTIER TIME IS A PL AYGROUND THE POSSIBILIT Y CARTIER MASSE MYST RIEUSE THE INNOVATIVE CALIBRE 9801 MC HOUSED IN COUSSIN DE CARTIER FLE XIBLE VERSION CARTIER HAS ONCE AGAIN CAUSED A OF EXPLORING NEW TERRITORIES AND CONSTANTLY REINVENTING THE BR AND S THIS NEW CARTIER MAKES IT POSSIBLE TO AVOID THE EFFECTS OF GR AVIT Y ON STIR WITH THIS FLE XIBLE VERSION OF ITS NEW COUSSIN DRE AMED UP BY THE ST YLISTIC GR AMMAR THIS YEAR IT S THE TURN OF THE CL ASSIC CUSHION SHAPE THE TIMEKEEPING IT TOOK FIVE DIFFERENT CONSTRUCTIONS AND T WO PROTO MANUFACTURE S RESE ARCH L ABOR ATORY THE CASES OF THESE T WO LIMITED TO SUBMIT TO THE E XERCISE THE COUSSIN DE CARTIER WATCH IS MADE FOR T YPE VERSIONS TO DE VELOP THE FINAL MOVEMENT THE HANDS OF THIS WATCH EDITIONS CONSIST OF GOLD MESH THAT INTERLINKS TO WE AVE A SQUARED WE ARING AT E VENING E VENTS WHERE IT MAKES AN IMPRESSION THIS WATCH FLOAT IN THE SPACE OF THE CASE WITHOUT BEING LINKED TO ANY GE AR TR AIN FR AMEWORK INTO WHICH CARTIER HAS BUILT AN INNOVATIVE ELEMENT THAT HAS BEEN TURNED INTO A COLLECTION COMPRISING VERSIONS IN GOLD AND E VEN BE T TER THE ENTIRE MOVEMENT APPE ARS TO BE WEIGHTLESS ALL THE ENABLES THE CASES TO DEFORM AND E XPAND AGAIN TO RESUME THEIR ORIGI DIAMONDS BICOLOURED VERSIONS AND FINALLY MORE E XPERIMENTAL VER COMPONENTS RECEIVING THE MOVEMENT S ENERGY THE TR ANSMISSION AND NAL FORM AN ADDITIONAL DIFFICULT Y IS THAT THE CASES ARE ENTIRELY PAVED SIONS FLEXIBLE WATCHES FULLY PAVED WITH COLOURED STONES OR DIAMONDS THE REGUL ATION ARE BUILT INTO THE ROTOR ITSELF SKELE TONIZED IN ORDER WITH DIAMONDS OR COLOURED STONES TO MAKE THE FASCINATING WORKINGS VISIBLE vuitton SRA Architectes KPF A vision of eternity WATCH YOUR TIME UK 280x380 T20 SP1 INTERNATIONAL On sale date 22 SEPTEMBER 26 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS JOURNEY BEYOND TIME

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SUSTAINABILITY WATCH YOUR TIME 29 Sustainable watchmaking o Christophe Roulet P H OTO D AV I D B E L L E M E R E H I G H WA I S T E D L E AT H E R S T R A I G H T L E G PA N T S R O S E A N N A V E LV E T B A LC O N E T T E TO P E L I S A B E T TA F R A N C H I Z I P P E R T H I G H H I G H B O OT S C O P E R N I Our duration is irreversible Henri Bergson 1859 1941 Sustainable development is becoming a tangible reality in the watchmaking world whether we re talking about products supply chains production facilities or the various sponsorships and partnerships It s no longer a question of keeping up with the times but rather of anticipating them There are signs you cannot mistake It all began with a more and more pronounced penchant for vintage watches those models that not without a certain nostalgia recall an era when watches were made in the old fashioned way without resorting to digital technology It did not take long for the brands to pick up the scent and bring their models steeped in history back to life Meanwhile a cionados started yearning for true vintage models namely second hand timepieces designed to last indeed to be passed on from generation to generation for ever as the watchmaking mantra would have it At the same time the exchange platforms took off boosting a market that many feel will reach around 50 billion francs in annual sales of new Swiss watches at retail cost before long No need to make detailed analyses As the numerous client surveys made in the prestige products sector have shown and the ood of vintage watches has emphasized a cionados have developed an attachment to lasting values that can no longer be ignored An opportunity for the watchmaking industry If the sector has one primordial quality it is assuredly that of inspiring dreams and perfectly nurturing this capacity over the centuries To such an extent that the brands in the sector have earned themselves a place of choice in the luxury world for their know how technical mastery and traditions PANER AI LUMINOR MARINA 44MM EDITION GUILLAUME N RY THE NEW LUMINOR MARINA 44 MM GUILL AUME NERY EDITION IS A CONCENTR ATION OF INNOVATIVE AESTHETIC ELEMENTS AS CAN BE SEEN IN THE RUBBER COATING APPLIED TO THE BE ZEL CROWN AND CROWN PROTECTING BRIDGE THE EMPHASIZED CONVEX GL ASS AND THE GR ADIENT EFFECT DIAL EVOKING THE SHADOWS CAST BY THE SUN S R AYS FILTERING DOWN TO THE MARINE DEP THS THIS NEW MODEL REFLECTS PANER AI S APPROACH TO MATERIALS PROCESSING PARTICUL ARLY WITH THEIR DMLS DIRECT METAL L ASER SINTERING TECHNOLOGY WHICH MAKES IT POSSIBLE TO FASHION THE CASE IN TITANIUM WITH THE AID OF A 3D PRINTING PROCESS THE CALIBRE P 9010 AN AUTOMATIC MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT JUST 6 MM THICK COMPLETES THE MODEL EQUIPPED WITH T WO BARRELS IT PROVIDES A POWER RESERVE OF THREE DAYS AND THERE IS A R APID TIME CORRECTION FUNCTION THE WATCH IS GUAR ANTEED FOR 70 YE ARS However this highly enviable position still comes up against an unavoidable reality the product alone is no longer enough Today to retain all their seductive power timepieces need to match up to a very precise rationale that falls within a comprehensive move towards sustainable development And everything comes under scrutiny from the supply chains to production capacities and communications factors Diamonds that fuel civil wars animals reared and killed for their skins environmental damage caused by unregulated gold prospecting the carbon emissions of delocalized production facilities all that not so long ago could easily be swept under the carpet has now clearly acquired strategic importance

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30 WATCH YOUR TIME SUSTAINABILITY FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 31 A clean future As a reference one can consult the sustainable development programme adopted by all the UN Member States in 2015 This provides a common roadmap for the peace and prosperity of the planet s populations encompassing 17 global objectives together with 169 detailed targets In short these objectives provide a de nition of the most urgent challenges the world population is facing and thus constitute the essential framework for the implementation of the sustainable development programme to the year 2030 In 2015 just as the UN was setting out its programme another important event seemed to con rm the desire of governments to tackle the problem the Paris Climate Agreement the most quickly and widely accepted treaty in human history with 195 signatures out of 197 at the foot of the text With hindsight though we cannot but notice that this formidable show of solidarity proved formidable largely on paper as was noted at the last Climate Conference COP26 in Glasgow Just to prove the point the six years that have passed since the Paris Agreement were the hottest ever recorded What s more the reports of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change IPCC analysis after analysis raising louder and louder alarm bells have scarcely made any real impact And yet today there is no longer any need to show the effects of the climate change currently under way The present level of global warming roughly 1 1 Celsius on average since the pre industrial era has already contributed to so many calamities that the most pessimistic predictions are taken seriously In this context where governmental effort is found lacking the importance of the role private initiative can play cannot be overstressed This is precisely where the actions of the watchmaking brands come in All the more so given that the economic impact of the watchmaking sector Switzerland s third largest export industry is far from limited by the nation s frontiers in particular where its raw materials requirements are concerned Two recent initiatives merit a closer look In 2019 the French president Emmanuel Macron asked Fran ois Henri Pinault the head of Kering Gucci Saint Laurent Boucheron etc to coordinate the adoption of environmental best practices by luxury sector businesses More than 250 brands in 14 different countries responded to the call of this Fashion Pact built on three pillars the ght against global warming the restoration of biodiversity and the protection of the oceans A welcome initiative when it is considered that the fashion industry is the second most polluting activity in the world But with what results According to experts for an economic sector to change its practices at least 20 of its activities need to be concerned explained Fran oisHenri Pinault at the Zero Carbon Forum held in Paris just over a year ago And the signatories of the Fashion Pact represent more than 35 of the textile and fashion industries world volumes So we are in a position to make things happen And this is already the case according to Fran ois Henri Pinault particularly in the elds of renewable energy and the preservation of the oceans the elimination of single use plastics will be achieved in 2025 in the consumer market and in 2030 in the industrial market for all the signatories To sum up he explained I would say that either the industry cleans up its act and we will have a future or there won t be one Green energy Having embraced the sustainable development cause through its recycled products environmental partnerships and responsible production methods Panerai is acting as a promoter of green energy JE AN MARC PONTROU CEO OF PANER AI I II III V VI IIII VII I CARTIER PRIV TANK CHINOISE CRE ATED IN 1917 III BL ANCPAIN FIF T Y FATHOMS BATHYSCAPHE SINCE V BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO ANNIVERSARY EDITION VII CHOPARD LUC XPS 1860 OFFICER EQUIPPED WITH BY LOUIS CARTIER THE TANK IS PRESENTED THIS YE AR ITS BEGINNINGS IN 1956 THE BATHYSCAPHE R ANGE HAS TO CELEBR ATE 10 YE ARS OF THE OCTO BVLGAR I IS THE F I RST CHOPAR D M ANUFACTUR E CA LI B R E PR E IN ITS TANK CHINOISE VERSION WITH THIS GENEROUS BEEN A CORNERSTONE OF BL ANCPAIN S DIVER S WATCH UNVEILING T WO ANNIVERSARY EDITIONS THAT HARK SENTED IN 1997 THE L U C XPS 1860 OFFICER MODEL AND SOBER HOURS AND M INUTES MODEL IN PL ATI COLLECTION I N KEEPI NG WITH THE HER ITAGE AND BAC K TO TH E SOURCES OF I TS C ONCEP T I ON TH E STANDS FOR ALL THE ELEGANCE AND CR AF TSMANSHIP NUM FE ATURING HORIZONTAL BE VELLED HORNS THE SPORTY CHIC STYLE OF ITS PREDECESSORS THE LATEST FIRST SKETCHES MADE BY BVLGARI S CRE ATIVE DIREC OF HAUTE HORLOGERIE PRESENTED IN A 40 MM CASE OF WATCH TICKS WITH THE RHY THM OF THE 430 MC MOVE ADDITION TO THE BATHYSCAPHE R ANGE IS EQUIPPED TOR TODAY THESE PENCILLED SKE TCHES ADORN THE 18 CT E THICAL YELLOW GOLD AND DECOR ATED WITH A MENT CURRENTLY THE BR AND S THINNEST MECHANI WITH A CASE IN TITANIUM AND THE 1315 MANUFACTURE ENGR AVED DIALS OF THIS OCTO FINISSIMO AUTOMATIC FOREST GREEN DIAL THIS TIMEPIECE IS CERTIFIED AS A CAL MOVEMENT CALIBRE A REFERENCE FOR SPORTS WATCHES IN TITANIUM CHRONOMETER AND STAMPED WITH THE GENEVA SE AL II AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK JUMBO EXTRA THIN I I I I BR EG UET CL ASSIQUE TOURBILLON E X TR A PL AT V I R ICHAR D M I LLE RM 35 0 3 AUTOMATIC R AFAEL TO CELEBR ATE 50 YEARS OF THE ROYAL OAK AUDEMARS ANNIVERSAIRE 5365 IN 2021 FOR THE TOURBILLON S NADAL THE RM 035 BABY NADAL COLLECTION A CON PIGUE T IS PRESENTING THE NEW GENER ATION OF THE 220 YEARS BREGUET S NEW MODEL WAS PAYING TRIBUTE CENTR ATION OF TECHNOLOGY AT THE SERVICE OF PER 39 MM ROYAL OAK JUMBO EXTR A THIN MODEL DRIVEN TO THIS INVENTION PRODUCED IN A LIMITED EDITION OF FORMANCE PRESENTS A PATENTED INNOVATION THE BY TH E VERY L ATEST E X TR A TH I N M OVEM ENT TH E JUST 35 NAMELY THE NUMBER OF TOURBILLON WATCHES BUT TERFLY ROTOR WH ICH ALLOWS ITS OWNER TO CALIBRE 7121 THE COLLECTION COMPRISES FOUR VAR COMPLETED IN ABRAHAM LOUIS BREGUET S LIFETIME THE HAVE DIRECT CONTROL OF THE ROTOR S GEOME TRY IATIONS IN STAINLESS STEEL PL ATINUM 18 CT YELLOW TIMEPIECE IS A VIBR ANT HOMAGE TO THE GRE AT WATCH AND THUS OF THE MOVEMENT S WINDING IN ACCORD GOLD AND 18 CT PINK GOLD MAKER S SECUL AR AESTHETICS AND VISIONARY GENIUS ANCE WITH THEIR LIFEST YLE AND ACTIVITIES Jean Marc Pontrou CEO of Panerai says and repeats that it is across the profession that the challenges of sustainable development must be tackled With the advantage compared with certain industries that watchmaking produces sustainable products par excellence designed to last for ages and delight several successive generations But from words to actions there is obviously a step that is easier to make if there are some leading lights to set the example Panerai has clearly positioned itself alongside those who have decided to clear the terrain with an indispensable guide the adventurer and ambassador Mike Horn well placed to expose the degradation of a planet in danger At the last Watches and Wonders trade fair in Geneva the explorer was obviously present accompanied by Jean Marc Pontrou and Francesca Santoro a specialist with the Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission IOC of UNESCO to talk about sustainable development Last year Panerai in fact entered into a two year partnership with the IOC UNESCO with a view to developing Ocean Literacy a world training and awareness programme that allows various stakeholders to become players for change and defenders of the ocean The rst stage of the programme will involve education a eld in which Panerai has undertaken to hold a cycle of confer ences involving thousands of students and to organize plastic clean up days One can t help noticing that the oceans occupy a special place in Panerai s heart largely due to the brand s origins Before developing timekeeping products intended for combat divers the Florence based brand was in fact specialized in measuring instruments for the Italian navy In more than a century its attachment to the sea has never dwindled as visitors to the Panerai stand at the Geneva trade fair will have noticed on literally entering an underwater cave Pontrou Today we no longer ask the question It is rather like the electric cars Ten years ago they were still UFOs but now they populate our roads Our aim at Panerai is to eliminate stainless steel in favour of recycled steel within three years On all fronts Besides this year s new products leave no room for ambiguity The year 2022 is in fact that of the Submersible the brand s famous diver s model released for the occasion in a new size of 44 mm The success of the collection s model in bronze is so great that the waiting list never stops growing So it s no accident if it is precisely this watch range that receives the brand s principal innovations in favour of eco responsibility So last year Panerai presented its Submersible eLAB ID a watch that is 98 recycled at the same time as it introduced eSteel a recycled steel that is to be found this year in three Submersible QuarantaQuattro models Two years ago recyclability clearly had no place in the luxury sector s vocabulary comments Jean Marc In parallel Panerai is also presenting lightweight solid and resistant straps designed in a material of reduced environmental impact obtained from recycled PET The same goes for the packaging manufactured from FSCcerti ed Forest Stewardship Council paper and made with 72 recycled materials In terms of impact the new packaging which is half the weight of the previous packaging reduces the CO2 emissions by 48 And that s still without taking into account the efforts made in cutting the emissions of Panerai s buildings Starting with the operational head of ce which meets the strictest standards in order to eliminate carbon dioxide emissions completely On the menu processes for water recycling a hydroelectric power source for the production and the installation of solar panels geothermal captors and a heat pump As Panerai says sustainable development is at the centre of the brand s preoccupations at all levels Another way of applying the pioneering spirit and tenacity that characterize a brand cut out for action Eric Dumatin PANER AI SUBMERSIBLE QUAR ANTAQUAT TRO ESTEEL VERDE SMER ALDO THIS PANER AI LUMINOR PERPETUAL CALENDAR GOLDTECH PAM01269 PURSU WITH THE CROWN LOCK BRIDGE ON THE SIDE THIS WATCH IN A LIMITED EDITION YE AR PANER AI IS INTRODUCING A NEW CASE SIZE OF 44 MM INTO THE SUB ING ITS TR ANSITION FROM MILITARY WATCHMAKING TOWARDS A MORE CIVILIAN OF 33 PIECES IS PRODUCED IN GOLDTECH A PROPRIE TARY GOLD AND PL ATI MERSIBLE COLLECTION THIS NEW MODEL CONSERVES ALL THE CHAR ACTER R ANGE PANER AI PRESENTS THE LUMINOR PERPETUAL CALENDAR GOLDTECH THIS NUM ALLOY IT HOUSES THE P 4100 AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT WHICH FUNCTIONS ISTICS OF THE COLLECTION BASED ON THE EMBLEMATIC LUMINOR CASE WITH VARIANT OF THE MODEL PRESENTED IN 2021 COMES TOGE THER WITH ITS E XPE THANKS TO THE ENERGY STORED IN T WO BARRELS WOUND BY A MICRO ROTOR ITS PATENTED CROWN LOCKING DEVICE BUT WITH A UNIDIRECTIONALLY ROTAT RIENCE NAMELY A TRIP TO FLORENCE AS WELL AS AN NF T A CRYP TOGR APHIC IN 22 CT GOLD THE MOVEMENT BE ATS AT 4 HZ AND HAS A POWER RESERVE OF ING BE ZEL THE SOLID CASE BACK IN ESTEEL A RECYCLED STEEL PRESENTED BY TOKEN LINKED TO A BLOCKCHAIN THANKS TO A DIAL IN TINTED SAPPHIRE THE THREE DAYS THE MONTH YE AR LE AP YE AR AND POWER RESERVE INDICATIONS PANER AI IN 2021 HIDES THE AUTOMATIC CALIBRE P 900 WITH HOURS MINUTES WATCH REVEALS THE CONCENTRIC CALENDAR DISCS LOCATED BELOW BEARING ON THE PL ATE AT THE BACK OF THE MOVEMENT SEEN THROUGH THE CASE BACK SMALL SECONDS AND THE DATE THE USUAL LUMINOR FEATURES THE ROUND BEZEL ON A CUSHION SHAPED CASE ALLOW A MINIMALIST DISPL AY ON THE DIAL

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32 WATCH YOUR TIME SUSTAINABILITY FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 33 A watchmaking 2030 Initiative What is valid for the fashion industry is even more so for the watchmaking and jewellery sectors dependent as they are on the mining industry for their gemstone and metal supplies The mining industry overall accounts for between 4 and 7 of world greenhouse gas emissions If we broaden the spectrum to the extraction of all the raw materials we arrive at over 50 of world carbon emissions according to a study of the United Nations Environment Programme without taking account of fuel consumption In these conditions there is no question of the major watchmaking brands opting out Social and environmental responsibility must be among the subjects that are of daily concern to us declared Arnaud Carrez Cartier International s marketing and communications director during a recent online seminar The luxury sector creates and sells products that are inessential but provide pleasure In this context there is no other choice than to make a commitment to a better world In matters of sustainable development things are not always simple and besides not all subjects demand an immediate response but the way forward is traced with product innovations that must espouse our environmental credibility The 2030 Watch Jewellery Initiative is clearly a response to this problem At the end of 2021 in partnership with the Responsible Jewellery Council RJC and guided by Cartier the Kering and Richemont groups launched this project open to all watchmaking and jewellery brands ready to commit themselves to a set of common sustainable development objectives These objectives cover three elds seeking to reinforce climatic resilience preserve the planet s resources and foster social I II V inclusion This 2030 Initiative builds upon existing programmes such as ScienceBased Targets and experienced organizations like the RJC It also includes innovation factors where materials and sales models are concerned with the aim of supporting and encouraging the transformations expected in the sector In concrete terms to take an example commitments made on the question of climatic resilience include decarbonization of all processes through the use of 100 renewable energy in all adherents operations by 2025 and in those of their partners and suppliers by 2030 Decarbonization encouraged by the implementation of responsible practices regarding energy ef ciency and by greenhouse gas emissions cancelled or compensated for by climate projects involving the restoration of forest coastal and marine ecosystems Will this approach help us sell more Cartier products pondered Arnaud Carrez That is not the question Today we must adopt a position of responsible growth There is no other way Besides Kering and Cartier will there be other candidates to take up the cause of this 2030 Initiative If we consider the programmes of brands like Rolex with Perpetual Planet and Blancpain with Ocean Commitment if we look at commitments made by Ulysse Nardin Breitling and Omega towards saving the oceans if we take note of the efforts made by Cartier and Chopard on recycling and ethical sourcing of gold if we recognize the decarbonization work carried out by Oris and IWC we have every reason to hope that the ambitious objectives set by Kering and Cartier will become a source of inspiration Watchmaking excellence LIONEL A MARCA CEO OF BREGUE T Breguet which celebrated 220 years of the tourbillon in 2021 is following in the steps of its founder AbrahamLouis Breguet both a genius and a watchmaking aesthete in the 19th century A reminder that watches are a field of mechanical excellence III A Breguet watch is highly symbolic Not just because the brand s founder of the same name was a watchmaking genius but also because the contemporary timepieces that bear his name perpetuate this tradition of mechanical excellence When I arrived at the head of Breguet in August 2021 explains Lionel a Marca my rst impressions con rmed what I had felt for some time namely that this brand was a fabulous Manufacture at the service of watchmaking a brand with rare skills and exclusive know how Abraham Louis Breguet whose recently celebrated invention of the tourbillon patented on 26 June 1801 is behind many innovations and aesthetic developments in both the watches of his time and present day models Now it is up to us to show ourselves worthy of this heritage But I have no worry on that score We have no shortage of arguments to demonstrate that Breguet is a brand ready to take on challenges in developing innovations for watch calibres IIII VII VI That said it is above all for this invention s 225th jubilee that we are preparing something exceptional Indeed our Research and Development department is already at work on the project press of the push piece it is possible to pass from one end of the planet to the other without disturbing the precise running of the watch This irreproachable technology found a magni cent illustration in the anniversary watch for the 220 years of the tourbillon an extra thin watch reference 5365 limited to 35 pieces tted with the calibre 581 just 3 mm in depth A remarkable feat for this type of movement incorporating regulation correction by means of a tourbillon It s true that this anniversary has been somewhat perturbed by the international situation added Lionel a Marca Nevertheless this timepiece was rapidly sold out Enthusiasts particularly appreciated the historical references built into this model A bridge spanning the centuries At the start of the year as a reminder of the extent of the Manufacture s capabilities Breguet presented a new interpretation of its Hora Mundi model in the Marine i e naval collection A brief reminder of the facts Recognized as an outstanding scientist and master of technology AbrahamLouis Breguet bound up his destiny with that of the French navy in 1814 when a royal decree declared him a member of the Bureau des Longitudes points out the brand A year later King Louis XVIII bestowed upon him one of the most prestigious titles that of Watchmaker to the Royal Navy Henceforth the eets of the greatest explorers navigated with the aid of a system of chronometry produced by Breguet This Hora Mundi is its worthy descendant as a timepiece with four patents to its credit after three years of development work on a calibre incorporating a second time zone which the mechanism remembers for instant switching Practically it suf ces to set the time and date in the rst time zone and then choose a second world city which appears in an aperture at 6 o clock The timepiece s mechanism then calculates this city s time and date with the aid of an ingenious system of cams hammers and a built in differential indicates Breguet Then with a simple With a day night indication symbolized by a sun and a moon a date display in an aperture with a retrograde hand this Marine Hora Mundi 5557 offers the most exceptional attention to detail seen particularly in its dial which plays with dimensional aspects On a rst gold base of the satin nished blue dial waves that have been hand engraved with a rose engine break on the shores of continents in relief whose coastlines are traced with a ne metallized turquoise border A sapphire plate showing the meridians metallized and bearing hour markers is added held in place by the outer ange At 4 o clock the sun and moon are hand stamped to add realism We nd the same obsession with detail in the new Tradition Quanti me R trograde 7597 which features a strong contrast between the monochrome blue here and there on the dial and the movement adorned in anthracite grey as Breguet describes it As with all the models in this collection it is the mechanism revealed on the dial side that captures the eye and recalls the brand s origin From the shape of the bridges to the pare chute and the dimensions of the balance wheel and gear train all the components are implicitly inspired by the movements of the souscription and tact watches created by Abraham Louis Breguet For a cionados it s a real bridge spanning the centuries Eric Dumatin I GR AND SEIKO HERITAGE COLLECTION THE 44GS 55 th III FR D RIQUE CONSTANT VINTAGE R ALLY HEALEY V CHANEL J12 CALIBRE 12 2 CHANEL IS CONTINUING VII ULYSSE NARDIN DIVER WITH ITS INTENSE BLUE ANNIVERSARY LIMITED EDITION WITH THE HIGH FRE AU T O MAT I C S MALL S EC O N D S F O R M O R E T H A N TO ROLL OUT ITS MECHANIZ ATION ACROSS THE FULL E VOKING THE DEP THS OF THE OCE AN AND ITS DE TAILS QUENCY CALIBRE 9SA5 MOVEMENT L AUNCHED IN 2020 15 YEARS AFICIONADOS OF FINE MECHANICS HAVE BEEN J12 R ANGE THUS THE 33 MILLIMETRE MODEL INCORPO IN PIN K GOLD THE 44 M M D IVER CHRONOM E TER IS GR AND SEI KO HAS TAKEN A M A JOR STEP I N TER M S CELEBR ATING THE REUNION OF THE AUTOMOBILE WITH R ATES THE CALIBRE 12 2 THE KENISSI MANUFACTURE THE NAVIGATOR S INSTRUMENT PAR E XCELLENCE THE OF PRECISION AND PERFORMANCE IT CAN BE FOUND WATCHMAKING IN THE FORM OF THE VINTAGE R ALLY OF WHICH CHANEL IS A SHAREHOLDER HAS DE VEL 260 COMPONENTS INCLUDING AN ESCAPE WHEEL AND IN THIS WATCH IN E VER BR I LLIANT A T YPE OF SUS LI M ITED EDITIONS DESIGNED BY FR D RIQUE CON OPED THIS NEW COSC CERTIFIED MOVEMENT FOR THE A PALLE T FORK IN SILICON MOVE HARMONIOUSLY TO TAINABLE SHINY STEEL THAT ENHANCES THE MODEL S STANT AS A TRIBUTE TO THE LEGENDARY AUSTIN HEALEY BR AND IN WHICH ALL THE COMPONENTS HAVE BEEN PROVIDE HIGH PRECISION PERFORMANCE BREGUET MARINE HOR A MUNDI 5557 ENSURING THE RE ADABILIT Y OF THE DIAL NUMER AL SYSTEM INGENIOUSLY PL ACED BENE ATH THE APERTURE ITS EXTREM BREGUET TR ADITION QUANTI ME R TROGR ADE 7597 REGAL MONOCHROME CL ASSIC DESIGN TODAY THIS NE W MODEL ADDS TO THIS TR ADITION ADJUSTED TO THIS NEW DIAME TER WHILE OFFERING EACH INDICATION ITS OWN SPECIAL AESTHETICS FOR BREGUET IT Y ENDS IN THE FORM OF A U WHICH SERVES TO ENCIRCLE THE DAY S DATE A WITH ITS AESTHETIC BLEND OF HERITAGE AND MODERNIT Y THE TR ADITION COL II HERM S CAPE COD CREPUSCULE IN 2018 HERM S IIII BAUME MERCIER CLASSIMA BAUME MERCIER VI LOUIS VUIT TON STREET DIVER SINCE ITS L AUNCH LUXURY IS INDEED IN THE DETAILS THIS IS WHY THE HOURS AND MINUTES HANDS SLIGHTLY FOGGED FINISH IS OBTAINED BY AN OLD FASHIONED WATCHMAKING LECTION L AUNCHED IN 2005 IS THE FIRST BREGUE T R ANGE TO PRESENT ALL SET UP A MEETING WITH THE SWISS CENTRE FOR ELEC HAS RE VISITED THE CODES OF URBAN ST YLE IN A TIME I N 2002 THE TA M BOUR WATCH HAS BEEN I N C ON AND THE HOUR MAR KERS ARE COATED WITH LUM INESCENT MATER IAL THAT DECOR ATION TECHNIQUE BROUGHT UP TO DATE WHICH PRODUCES AN EFFECT THE MOVEMENT S ORGANS ON THE DIAL SIDE A DEMONSTR ATION OF INSPI TRONICS AND MICRO TECHNOLOGY IN NEUCH TEL IN LESS PL AY OF MATERIALS AND NUANCES THE FOCUS STANT E VOLUTION IT CONTI NUES ON ITS ODYSSE Y ALLOWS THEM TO BE RE AD ONCE NIGHT HAS FALLEN LOCATED AT 4 O CLOCK THAT IS BOTH MAT T AND SHINY REMAINING DISCREE T IT ALSO FACILITATES THE R ATION DR AWN FROM THE SOUSCRIP TION AND TACT WATCHES L AUNCHED SE ARCH OF TECHNOLOGICAL INNOVATION THAT COULD IS ON KHAKI WITH A COMPREHENSIVE PALE T TE THAT BY OPENING THE DOORS TO THE CLOSED WORLD OF THE SUN AND MOON HAVE BEEN HAND STAMPED TO ADD A STRONG TOUCH OF RE ADING OF THE WATCH THE INDICATION OF THE CITIES THAT CORRESPOND IN 1797 THE SUBSCRIP TION WATCH WAS FIT TED WITH A SINGLE HAND THAT BE PUT TO USE IN WORKS OF CRE ATION THIS GAVE RISE R ANGES FROM SANDY BEIGE TO OLIVE GREEN THIS SPORTS WATCHES FOR LOUIS VUIT TON OR MORE PRE RE ALISM WHILE THE SUN APPE ARS IN BRIGHT PINK GOLD THE RHODIUM PL ATED TO THE VARIOUS TIME ZONES IS LOCATED AT 6 O CLOCK ABOVE THE APERTURE GAVE A RE ADING OF THE HOURS AND MINUTES ITS ORIGINAL AESTHETICS WERE TO THE PROJECT OF A DIAL MADE FROM A WAFER OF CL ASSIMA MODEL OF GENEROUS DIMENSIONS FOR A CISELY SPORT Y CHIC BECAUSE IT IS ST YLED TO BE JUST MOON TAKES ON A MYSTERIOUS GREY ASPECT THE DATE INDICATION IN AN APER A ME TALLIZED ANCHOR SERVES TO DE TERMINE THE LOCATION FOR WHICH ONE ACCOMPANIED BY A NEW CONCEP T PAYMENT OF A QUARTER OF THE WATCH S SILICON THAT SERVES TO RE VE AL DESIGNER THANH LOOK THAT IS BOTH CASUAL AND REFINED E XPLORES AS AT E ASE IN AN URBAN CONTE XT AS IN UNDERWATER TURE AT 12 O CLOCK FE ATURES A RE TROGR ADE HAND IN ADDITION TO THE DATE SEEKS TO CONSULT THE TIME PRICE ON PL ACING THE ORDER PHONG L S DR AWING CREPUSCULE THIS TREND WITH ELEGANCE AND SUBTLE T Y ACTIVITIES TO A DEP TH OF 100 ME TRES

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36 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 37 SYLVIA E ARLE FOUNDER OF MISSION BLUE AN AERIAL VIEW OF S O JORGE ISL AND IN THE A ZORES THE HIGH ALTITUDE E XPEDITION TE AM ASSEMBLES THE DURING AN E XPEDITION TO A HOPE SPOT THE A ZORE ARCHIPEL AGO HAS BEEN NAMED A NEW WORLD S HIGHEST AUTOMATED WE ATHER STATION AT THE AT CABO PULMO LOS CABOS ME XICO IN 2017 HOPE SPOT BY MISSION BLUE GREG LECOEUR BALCONY ON THE SOUTHE AST RIDGE OF MT E VEREST ROLE X BART MICHIELS ROLE X NATIONAL GEOGR APHIC SYLVIA E ARLE S MISSION BLUE CRE ATED ITS FIRST THE E XPEDITION TE AM INSTALLS THE HIGHEST HOPE SPOT TO PROTECT MARINE BIODIVERSIT Y WE ATHER STATION IN THE SOUTHERN AND IN THE BALE ARIC ISL ANDS SPAIN KIP E VANS WESTERN HEMISPHERES AT 6 505 ME TRES ARMANDO VEGA NATIONAL GEOGR APHIC Preserving our planet with no time to lose From the depths of the oceans to the highest peaks Rolex has been accompanying the pioneers of exploration for more than a century Over time the links between the brand and exploration have evolved the thirst for discovery having been joined by a long term commitment to a whole new generation of heroes who through their scientific projects or innovative ideas are working to protect and restore the balance of our ecosystems A commitment reinforced by the Perpetual Planet initiative of 2019 Its beauty leaves no one indifferent As for the formidable variety of its landscapes and the extraordinary diversity of its ecosystems they are an in nite source of pleasure contemplation and admiration for mankind But today how can we ignore the fact that inhabiting the world necessarily involves making a concrete commitment to protecting it We know that after a period calculated to be several billion years our planet will disappear An eternity Certainly except that today we can no longer afford to keep ignoring the necessity of preserving the oceans mountains forests and endangered animal species In short all the ecosystems that contribute to the equilibrium of our planet We only have one and Rolex is supporting those who are committed to perpetuating its beauty in all its diversity A laboratory in the open air On the initiative of its founder Hans Wilsdorf the brand has accompanied the most illustrious explorers in fabulous exploits that have marked history Of course Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay spring to mind the very rst men to have reached the summit of Everest in 1953 We also think of the exploration by Jacques Piccard and Don Walsh of the Mariana Trench the deepest oceanic trench on Earth at more than 10 000 metres below the surface of the Paci c Ocean in 1960 And then we couldn t go without mentioning the exploit of the explorer and lm maker James Cameron who became the third man to reach the planet s deepest point in 2012 His solo descent into the depths was made the subject of a lm and many geological and biologi cal samples were collected Once again Rolex was involved in the project Just as the brand has repeatedly supported a number of mountaineers divers and scientists tackling expeditions often extreme that have served to document and expand our knowledge of the planet Understanding to change the world From the spirit of adventure and discovery to the protection of the environment Rolex continues to perpetuate its founder s heritage Today s heroes and explorers no longer shine by their exploits alone They are scientists biologists glaciologists veterinary surgeons oceanographers All precursors who through their expeditions offer a better understanding of the environment and propose practical solutions for a more sustainable planet Rolex actively supports them via the Perpetual Planet initiative launched in 2019 which encompasses a multitude of projects concerning nature conservation scienti c research and general exploration 2019 seems recent with regard to the current climate issues and the urgent need to act But in reality the watchmaking brand has been investing for several decades in aiding those who contribute to pushing back the frontiers of knowledge improving the conditions of life and protecting the environment Among the organizations and institutions supported by Rolex we nd the Under The Pole expeditions which are pushing back the limit of underwater exploration the associations One Ocean Foundation and Menkab which protect the cetaceans in the Mediterranean the Xunaan Ha expe dition which surveys the water quality in Mexico s Yucat n Peninsula the B I G expedition which will depart for the North Pole in 2023 in order to gather data on the dangers facing the Arctic and the Monaco Blue Initiative which is bringing together specialists in order to take measures for the protection of the oceans Sustainable initiatives that re ect the long term commitment of the brand which also makes a special contribution through three crucial projects the partnerships with the National Geographic Society and Mission Blue and the Rolex Awards for Enterprise Projects for the future Since 1976 155 award winners involved in the elds of science exploration health the environment and cultural heritage have received the watchmaking brand s support under the Rolex Awards for Enterprise scheme The Rolex Awards are particular in that they set out not to reward exceptional people for what they have already accomplished but rather to support them in the development of their projects A commitment that has largely borne fruit since some of these initiatives have produced concrete bene ts for the environment Some 23 million trees have been replanted across the world 43 endangered animal species and 30 major ecosystems have been protected including 57 000 km2 of Amazon forest and hundreds of new species have been discovered Technological innovations have also been developed in the health eld to improve the living conditions of populations exposed to harsh economic or environmental situations There are many examples like the initiative of the Pakistani doctor Sara Saeed co founder and CEO of Sehat Kahani This e health service puts woman doctors working from home in touch with the inhabitants of communities deprived of access to healthcare particularly in Pakistan s mountainous regions true medical deserts by offering affordable consultations via a remote healthcare network An ocean of hope Among the essential initiatives covered by Perpetual Planet the Mission Blue project run by the well known explorer and oceanographer Sylvia Earle has enjoyed support from Rolex since 2014 Mission Blue seeks to create a network of marine protected areas MPA across the planet with the aim of preserving species and ecosystems that play a strategic role inspiring local populations and giving them the means to act raising public interest and generating support for actions protecting all the world s oceans Called Hope Spots these marine areas designate speci c zones identi ed as being vital for the integrity of the oceans Exploring and protecting The Perpetual Planet initiative also includes Rolex s partnership since 1954 with the National Geographic Society Links that were especially reinforced in 2017 with the aim of promoting exploration oriented towards the protection of the environment Thus in 2019 with the support of the watchmaking brand a team directed by National Geographic and Tribhuvan University launched a scienti c expedition to Everest whose glaciers supply nearly a billion people with water In 2021 a second expedition was mounted to the Chilean volcano Tupungato in the Andes to install the highest weather station in the southern and western hemispheres These two expeditions are the rst of a long series planned over ve years and focusing on three major themes in order to analyse the impacts of climate change on the environments that ful l essential functions for life on Earth from the mountainous regions to the tropical forests and the oceans Today the Perpetual Planet initiative reaches well beyond the Rolex Awards for Enterprise and the partnerships with the National Geographic Society and Mission Blue It covers around twenty partnerships in a multitude of scienti c and environmental areas And it s only the beginning for the watchmaking brand all of whose Oyster watches bear the word Perpetual More than a simple word written on a dial it is the re ection of the philosophy and values that have been an integral part of Rolex s history from its creation and particularly nd expression in its sustainable combat for a better world Marie de Pimodan

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38 WATCH YOUR TIME JEWELLERY JEWELLERY WATCH YOUR TIME 39 CHOPARD PUMPKIN RING AMONG THE 75 UNIQUE PIECES OF THE RED CARPE T COLLECTION THE PUMPKIN RING IN PINK GOLD FAIRMINED CERTIFIED WHITE GOLD ALUMINIUM AND TITANIUM SE TS THE CHILD S HE ART WITHIN US BE ATING THE SE T TING OF THE SPESSARTITE GARNE TS 13 64 CT TSAVORITES 3 23 CT AND DIAMONDS 0 49 CT REQUIRED MORE THAN 100 HOURS OF WORK COLLECTION WITH THE R ADIANT NECKL ACE IN YELLOW GOLD AND PL ATINUM THAT ENVELOPS THE COLL AR ARE A IN A COAT OF PRECIOUS SCALES IN THE CENTRE A CUSHION CUT MANDARIN SPESSARTITE GARNE T OF 10 99 CT REIGNS IN SPLENDOUR UNDERLINED BY A V SE T CHANEL ALLURE CELESTE NECKLACE CHANEL CAP TURES THE STARS AND TAMES THEIR SPARKLE WITH THE FANTASTIC WITH BAGUE T TE CUT DIAMONDS LOUIS VUIT TON R ADIANT LOUIS VUIT TON IS ADDING TO ITS SPIRIT VAN CLEEF ARPELS PERL E IN KEEPING WITH THE LIGHT HE ARTED COLLECTION THE GARDEN OF WONDERS BVLGARI UNVEILS THE ST YLE OF THE PERL E COLLECTION VAN CLEEF ARPELS BRINGS ON TRIBUTE TO PARIS NECKL ACE WHICH CENTRE STAGES A FABULOUS STAGE FIVE NEW RINGS DECOR ATED WITH GOLD BE ADS THAT UNVEIL A OVAL CUT COLOMBIAN EMER ALD OF 35 53 CT AN INVENTIVE GEM SE T TING SPARKLING PALE T TE OF ORNAMENTAL STONES INCLUDING THIS VERSION ARR ANGEMENT OF PE AR CUT DIAMONDS AND EMER ALDS OUTLINES THE IN YELLOW GOLD ENHANCED WITH FINE DIAMONDS AND L APIS L A ZULI ALLURE C LESTE NECKL ACE INSPIRED BVLGARI TRIBUTE TO PARIS AMONG THE JEWELS OF THE EDEN ST YLIZED SILHOUE T TE OF THE EIFFEL TOWER JAUBALET FUTURE THE 3 0 JEWELLER ESTABLISHED IN PL ACE VEND ME BY THE MYSTERIES OF THE COSMOS WELL KNOWN FOR ITS TAILOR MADE HIGH JEWELLERY PIECES OF SCULP TED IN WHITE GOLD AND SE T WITH BOUNDLESS IMAGINATION PROPOSES A FUTURE RING IN PALL ADIUM DIAMONDS THIS JEWELLERY SE T IS DR APED DIAMONDS 1 03 CAR ATS FORM PART OF A SUMP TUOUS CARTIER ARR AY ASSERTING ITS TEMPER AMENT WITH A NEW BR ACELE T IN PINK GOLD SE T PL ATED 18 CT WHITE GOLD DECOR ATED WITH A MAGNIFICENT 9 CT WITH AN OVAL CUT SAPPHIRE OF 55 55 CT FROM THE BE AUT S DU MONDE COLLECTION WHICH INTERPRE TS WITH DIAMONDS AND AN ELEGANT DIAL IN WHITE MOTHER OF PE ARL COLOMBIAN EMER ALD HELD BY FOUR CL AWS IN 24 CT YELLOW GOLD A PE AR CUT DIAMOND OF 8 05 CT AND A THE NATUR ALIST MOTIF OF THE BUT TERFLY THE INSECT S WING IS A JEWELLERY WATCH TO MATCH WITH THE BAG OF THE SAME NAME AND ENHANCED BY A DELICATE PAVING OF DIAMONDS 0 70 CT BRILLIANT CUT DIAMOND OF 2 52 CT FR AGMENTED AND REPE ATED IN A COMPLE TELY ABSTR ACT COMPOSITION FOR THE ULTIMATE IN REFINEMENT Stroll in the Garden of Eden Finery fit for a celestial journey earrings that evoke a release of lucky lanterns a pumpkin ring that could have just come out of a fairy tale the realm of the imaginary inspires high jewellery You just have to let yourself be carried away o Marie de Pimodan CARTIER APORIA THESE E ARRINGS IN GREY GOLD DECOR ATED WITH RUBELLITES AND ONY X AND E ACH ONE SE T WITH 42 BRILLIANT CUT A ray of light as dazzling as a ray of sunshine a night sky lled with star constellations a lush Garden of Eden glittering scales evoking those of a sh A phantasmagorical marine creature perhaps a mermaid Freely inspired by the beauty of the earth and the universe jewellers creativity lifts the veil on a precious repertoire that seems to know no bounds Where geometrical rigour and organic forms meet the major jewellery brands are exploring the world of marvels to reveal astonishing jewels to wear around the neck and on the wrist slipped onto a nger or suspended from the ears Travelling for inspiration The high jewellery from Cartier has always been inspired by the beautiful things of this world A vocation inherited from the Cartier brothers who even in their time roamed the planet bringing back uncountable multicultural inspirations from their many travels A philosophy that can be seen today in a capsule collection of seven unique rings Geometry movement colour contrasts fauna and ora are all creative sources vying to bring life to the fascinating Beaut s du Monde collection A world where a sead ragon a fossil ammonite a sea monster and a Chinese puzzle gather in an assortment of motifs conveyed by triangular diamonds purple spinels tourmaline cabochons and green diamonds The spirit of travel is also at the heart of Chanel s latest creations A journey into the mysteries of the cosmos this time with the 1932 collection which centres on a fantastic necklace draped with diamonds and an oval sapphire of more than 55 carats forming celestial objects One can also see a form of excursion through the stars at Piaget with the new Glowing Lanterns creations which seeming to glean with internal re symbolize a release of celestial lucky lanterns Their secret A clever combination of tourmalines and translucent beads of chrysoprase beads a type of chalcedony which reveal their fascinating shade of apple green Fairies and princesses At Bvlgari this time the journey takes us to the City of Lights with the Tribute to Paris necklace worn by Julianne Moore on the red carpet at the 75th Cannes Festival Sculpted in platinum it bears a fabulous emerald cabochon of more HERM S KELLY CRE ATED IN 1975 THE KELLY WATCH IS RE VE ALING NEW FACE TS TO ITS FREE SPIRIT FACE TIOUS MOBILE AND PL AYFUL IT IS than 53 carats in its centre serving as a focal point for a motif in diamonds and emeralds evoking the silhouette of the Eiffel Tower A marvel that could have just popped out of a fairy tale Much like the new Red Carpet collection dreamed up by the co president of Chopard Caroline Scheufele for the jeweller s 25th participation as an of cial partner Among the 75 pieces in the collection a breathtaking pumpkin ring set with spessartite garnets and tsavorites secretly opens to reveal a legendary slipper in diamonds that allows Cinderella and her prince charming to be reunited In a similar vein we can t help thinking that the Radiant necklace from Louis Vuitton with its shscale silhouette sporting a cushion cut mandarin spessartite garnet of nearly 11 carats is an ideal set of jewellery for a modern day mermaid And we allow ourselves to imagine that the Kelly bracelet from Herm s directly inspired by the bag of the same name was conceived to drape princesses wrists with elegance In the repertoire of the precious everything is a pretext for travel Whether real or fantasised the jewellery odyssey takes us to the con nes of the imagination

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40 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS Premi re symphony In 1987 when presenting the Premi re watch which is celebrating its 35 years of enticing appeal this year Chanel was composing its first or premi re watchmaking symphony MARIANNE E TCHEBARNE GLOBAL HE AD OF WATCHES AND FINE JEWELLERY PRODUCT MARKE TING CLIENTS AND COMMUNICATION AT CHANEL seiko Mademoiselle Chanel did not wear a watch And yet the Parisian brand is now among those that have managed to appeal to timepiece enthusiasts with emblematic and innovative models A saga that proved to be one of the greatest successes in contemporary watchmaking With a point of departure that looked very like a premonitory initial action the launch of the Premi re watch 35 years ago almost to the day a model dreamed up by Jacques Helleu which continued to generate surprises especially with the J12 in 2000 With this Premi re watch that no one expected Chanel opened the ball with a watchmaking symphony of extremely feminine intonations With In s de la Fressange as its ambassador this geometric watch clearly displayed the brand s codes with its octagonal case evoking Place Vend me where Chanel had set up her boutique in 1990 a stone s throw from the Ritz Hotel where Mademoiselle Chanel lived In addition the two baton hands simple and frank recall the shadow cast by the column that stands in the middle of the place without cluttering themselves with hour markers As for the faceted sapphire glass it distinctly resembles the cabochon of the Chanel No 5 perfume bottle Scarcely presented this Premi re at once found its public As Marianne Etchebarne Global Head of Watches and Fine Jewellery Product Marketing Clients and Communication at Chanel explains 35 years after its launch this watch still has all its appeal Which is characteristic of an icon a symbol of continuity that endures over time With the Premi re Chanel s full watchmaking vision had already taken form with a model designed specially for women Several of the brand s signature features are found in it obviously the No 5 perfume but also the emblematic 2 55 handbag hinted at in the watch s bracelet so delicately embracing the wrist its chain plaited with leather A strong identity easily picked out among the others and a success that has never been disputable Symbol of freedom Without going as far as a metamorphosis but eagerly seeking new adornments the Premi re successfully emancipated itself in playing with different options white gold or yellow gold ceramic or stainless steel with bracelet variations including a chain in yellow gold or white gold plaited with leather or rubber cultured pearls assembled on gold thread a cascade of diamonds ceramic rings and so on In 2012 the Premi re adopted a ying tourbillon a magni cent watchmaking complication that takes the stylized form of a camellia Mademoiselle Chanel s favourite ower with petals in netting and a heart of diamonds that tops the tourbillon carriage which makes one revolution per minute The connoisseurs welcomed this entry of the Premi re into the mechanical world by voting it the top Lady s Watch at the Grand Prix d Horlogerie de Gen ve GPHG awards In 2017 came a new incursion into haute horlogerie with the Premi re Squelette Cam lia a watch that incorporated the brand s second Manufacture movement the manually wound Calibre 2 which distinguished itself with an innovative adoption of the form of a ower A remarkable feat once again triumphing at the GPHG awards With these models the Premi re remained perfectly faithful to its original styling concept while manifesting great creative freedom adds Marianne Etchebarne We are still in a desirable and very feminine world However for the Premi re s 35th anniversary we took another option That of reissuing the Premi re in a version identical to the original with a special box and a few improvements particularly where materials are concerned In this way we sought to recreate the spirit of this rst jewellery watch with an exquisite silhouette that complements feminine allure with freedom and light heartedness With this original Premi re Edition watch Chanel signs its very particular watchmaking vision Eric Dumatin CHANEL PREMI RE ORIGINAL EDITION IF THE SUCCESS OF THE PREMI RE SEEMS CHANEL PREMI RE OPENWORK FLYING TOURBILLON ELEGANTLY SET WITH DIA A R ARE INTENSIT Y ENHANCED BY THE SPARKLING GLE AM OF THE DIAMONDS SELF EVIDENT TODAY IT WAS MUCH LESS SO OVER A QUARTER OF A CENTURY AGO MONDS THE PREMI RE OPENWORK FLYING TOURBILLON OFFERS WOMEN THE THE WHITE GOLD CASE IS SE T WITH 47 BAGUE T TE CUT DIAMONDS WHILE THE AT THE TIME CHANEL DIDN T EXIST IN THE WATCHMAKING WORLD THEN THE ORIG OPPORTUNIT Y OF ENTERING THE WORLD OF WATCHMAKING S GR AND COMPLI BE ZEL ALSO IN WHITE GOLD IS SE T WITH 42 BAGUE T TE CUT DIAMONDS AND INAL PREMI RE ARRIVED AND SHOOK UP THE CODES AND PRECONCEP TIONS TO CATIONS ST YLIZED IN THE FORM OF A CAMELLIA AND DEPRIVED OF ITS UPPER 52 BRILLIANTS A STR AP IN BL ACK SATIN WITH A FOLDING CL ASP IN 18 CT WHITE BECOME A WORLDLY AND WORLDWIDE SUCCESS FOR IT TOOK SOME NERVE TO BRIDGE THE FLYING TOURBILLON BE ATS VERY DISCREE TLY AT THE HE ART OF A GOLD SET WITH 30 BRILLIANT CUT DIAMONDS COMPLETES THE TIMEPIECE PRE L AUNCH A QUARTZ WATCH SIGNED CHANEL A FASHION AND LUXURY WATCH WITH VERY FINELY OPENWORKED HAND WOUND MECHANICAL MOVEMENT FRUIT OF SENTED IN 2015 THIS WATCH CAME IN A LIMITED EDITION OF 12 A SIMPLE AND ELEGANTLY PL AIN DIAL WITH NEITHER DATE NOR SECONDS HAND IT A CLOSE COLL ABOR ATION BE T WEEN CHANEL AND THE SWISS MASTER WATCH ALSO TOOK SOME NERVE TO PROPOSE A COLLECTION COMPRISING JUST THREE MAKERS AT RENAUD PAPI A WATCHMAKING FIRM NOW PART OF AUDEMARS REFERENCES AND FINALLY IT TOOK SOME NERVE TO PROPOSE A PREMI RE IN PIGUE T PL AYING WITH NUANCES MAT T POLISHED SHINY BL ACK TAKES ON GILDED SILVER AND LEATHER AT AN HAUTE HORLOGERIE PRICE A WINNING GAMBLE

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ECOLOGY WATCH YOUR TIME 45 Symbiosis with Mother Nature o Paloma Recio A good ecologist is someone who sees far ahead and has little faith in progress science and technology Jacques Yves Cousteau 1910 1997 P H OTO D AV I D B E L L E M E R E B L A C K L A C E D R E S S O V E R W H I T E S H I R T E R D E M B L A C K L E AT H E R P L AT F O R M B O OT S P E T E R D O If for a long time watchmakers have ignored the concepts of sustainability today they are making real efforts in this area Partnerships forged with associations for the protection of nature and defenders of the ecological cause bear witness to this development Perfectly aware of the importance of preserving the planet and protecting the environment certain big names in watchmaking are adopting less polluting production processes ecologically responsible or recycled materials and more generally a policy that makes them more sustainable in the eyes of a clientele that has these questions at heart The watchmaking sector is thus making an effort to take part in actions seeking to protect and conserve the planet Going beyond sequins art and sport the industry s major players are now on the look out for recognized ambassadors on the ecological scene apt to boost their credibility Committed explorers researchers and photographers these are the new faces in a sector set on blowing the trumpets of sustainable development Rolex perfectly exempli es this approach For almost a hundred years the Manufacture has been backing pioneers those who opened up the continents and today seek to understand them With its Perpetual Planet initiative unveiled three years ago the crown brand has made a long term commitment to support explorers and scientists in their environmental efforts notably through its association with the National Geographic Society Result for several years Rolex has rewarded young researchers in various elds who have been striving to preserve biodiversity explore the coral reefs identify signs of global warming etc From the Roof of the World to the depths of the ocean This initiative comes as no surprise given the architecture of Rolex watches timepieces that are built for adventure and have accompanied the brand s ambassadors on their odysseys across vast expanses of ice and sand on the Roof of the World and in the ocean depths We recall the ascension of Everest by Edmund Hillary and Tensing Norgay in 1953 Oyster Perpetual ROLE X GMT MASTER II ROLE X IS UNVEILING AN UNE XPECTED INTERPRE TATION OF THE OYSTER PERPE TUAL GMT MASTER II ON THIS VERSION THE WINDING CROWN IS POSITIONED ON THE LEF THAND SIDE OF THE CASE THIS CONFIGUR ATION REQUIRED AN ADAP TATION OF THE ME ASUREMENT PROCEDURE IN ONE PART OF THE FINAL TESTS FOR DE TERMINING THE WATCH S PRECISION THE DATE APERTURE WITH ITS SUPERIMPOSED CYCLOPS LOUPE HAS ALSO BEEN MOVED TO 9 O CLOCK PRODUCED IN OYSTERSTEEL WITH THE OYSTER BR ACELE T THIS VERSION BE ARS A MONOBLOC CER ACHROM BE ZEL DISC IN GREEN AND BL ACK BICOLOURED CER AMIC A NEW COLOUR COMBINATION FOR THIS MODEL THE NEW VERSION OF THE GMT MASTER II IS EQUIPPED WITH THE CALIBRE 3285 A MOVEMENT THAT INDICATES HOURS MINUTES SECONDS AND THE DATE AS WELL AS A 24 HOURFORMAT SECOND TIME ZONE DISPL AY LIKE ALL ROLE X WATCHES THE OYSTER PERPE TUAL GMT MASTER II BENEFITS FROM CERTIFICATION AS A SUPERL ATIVE CHRONOME TER watches on their wrists and James Cameron s descent into the Mariana Trench in 2012 For its plunge to the deepest spot on the planet his submarine bore a Rolex Deepsea Challenge on its exterior a hark back to Piccard and Walsh s expedition on board the bathyscaphe Trieste in 1960 also equipped with a Rolex Convinced that our thirst for discovery is a key to the preservation of our earth s ecosystems the Geneva brand has been working with the prestigious oceanographer Sylvia Earle for many years With her Mission Blue project the Princess of Asturias award winner is endeavouring to weave a worldwide network of protected marine zones in order to preserve essential species and ecosystems while encouraging and reinforcing local activities and gaining the interest and support of world public opinion for action in favour of the oceans

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46 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 47 While certain initiatives are space oriented like the recent project supported by Omega seeking to eliminate waste emanating from arti cial satellites the seas and oceans have undoubtedly won the most favours from the watchmaking brands In this eld one of the most well known collaborations is that of Omega with the environmental activist Yann Arthus Bertrand via his GoodPlanet foundation Thanks to Omega s support his lm Planet Ocean has been screened worldwide revealing the beauty of a little known world with a view to motivating the public for its preservation A mission in which the Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M collection of watches specially designed for underwater exploration played a part Extraleganza These last few years the brand has certainly put the emphasis on its jewellery range intended for a feminine clientele recalls Benjamin Comar CEO at Piaget since June 2021 And that s very fortunate because it is a segment that is doing particularly well Piaget has always been a brand that caters as much for women as men Everything is a question of balance and to keep it we are going to spend the coming months continuing to focus on the brand s watchmaking This balance is found in the fully set Piaget Polo Skeleton equipped with the extra thin automatic 1200S1 movement 2 4 mm thick and fully skeletonised The slate grey movement is inspired by Piaget s famous 1200P extra thin automatic movement which after a transformation that has taken more than two years has become the skeletonized 1200S version Since then the calibre has seen still more improvements to become the 1200S1 evidence of Piaget s quest for the Absolute A quest that has given birth to the Altiplano Ultimate Concept watch in particular At 2 mm in depth a veritable technical feat that is practically unequalled honoured by the Tribute model this year Of course we are going to continue our research regarding extra thin models adds Benjamin Comar They clearly form part of the very essence of the brand along with elegance these are Piaget s two key values And we are delighted that other brands are also getting involved in developments in this area which can really be considered a watchmaking complication in its own right Piaget has strong credentials in this eld having already developed many extra thin calibres self winding and manually wound since the 1950s For Piaget who speaks a language that is as convincing in watchmaking as it is in jewellery balance is a strength a skilful balance between extravagance and elegance in a word the Piaget s extraleganza E D We love what we know Blancpain s Fifty Fathoms was born of this same subsea vocation in 1953 Since then the brand has been intimately linked to the world of the sea having built up solid connections with explorers photographers researchers and ecologists alongside whom the rm ran numerous oceanographic projects under the Ocean Commitment banner Among them the Gombessa expeditions of the French biologist and photographer Laurent Ballesta Each expedition sought to study some of the rarest and hardest to observe marine creatures of the depths such as the coelacanth a legendary living fossil that was believed to have been extinct since the era of the dinosaurs Blancpain s motto In the end we will conserve only what we love we will love only what we know In keeping with this principle the Manufacture worked with nearly fty underwater photographers of international renown including Ernest H Brooks II a veritable patriarch in this discipline Thanks to the annual publication Edition Fifty Fathoms these photographers can present the fruit of their work in order to raise public awareness of the cause of the oceans It was precisely in order to know and discover the mysterious Antarctic Ocean a gigantic marine biodiversity reserve that Hublot teamed up with the Polar Pod This zero emissions ecological boat was created by the explorer Jean Louis tienne the rst man to reach the North Pole solo The Antarctic Ocean plays a key role in climate regulation accounting for 50 of the CO2 absorbed by the planet s oceans Convinced of its crucial importance Jean Louis tienne will set out for the zone on board his vertical embarkation towards the end of 2023 The Polar Pod will spend three years gathering data on biodiversity current dynamics pol lution and atmospheric exchanges A watchmaking consecration AKIO NAITO PRESIDENT OF SEIKO WATCH CORPOR ATION Since its watchmaking emancipation in 2017 Grand Seiko has made good headway towards the realm of the greats This year the brand is presenting a grand complication as a world first I II III IIII PIAGET TRIBUTE ALTIPLANO ULTIMATE CONCEPT PIAGET UNVEILS A UNIQUE ALTIPL ANO I B L AN CPAI N FIF T Y FATHOMS TOUR BILLON CUT TING EDGE CHRONOMETRIC PERFORMANCE IIII A L ANGE S HNE ODYSSEUS TITANIUM ULTIMATE CONCEP T A BE ACON OF TECHNOLOGY AND DESIGN WHICH PAYS TRIBUTE 8 DAYS THIS DIVER S WATCH IS THE OUTCOME CHAR ACTERIZE THE POL ARIS WHOSE DIAL NOW I N 2019 A L ANGE S HNE PR ESENTED THE TO THE FIRST BE ATS OF THIS GROUND BRE AKING TIMEPIECE THE ALTIPL ANO ULTI OF A MEE TING OF A GR AND COMPLICATION AND TAKES ON A DEEP GREEN HUE TO BRING A NEW ODYSSEUS A WATCH OF SP ORT Y ELEGANCE MATE CONCEP T STARTED AS AN IDE A A VISION A DRE AM NOT E VERYONE BELIE VED IT HIGH PERFORMANCE ITS FLYING TOURBILLON TOUCH OF COLOUR TO THE ADVENTURES OF AND THE BR AND S FIRST MODEL IN STAINLESS WAS POSSIBLE BUT THE PHILOSOPHY AT PIAGE T HAS ALWAYS BEEN TO ALWAYS PUSH DOES ITS ROUNDS BENE ATH AN OPENING IN THE E VERYDAY LIFE STEEL ONCE AGAIN IT WAS THIS TIMEPIECE THAT THE LIMITS PIAGE T S ENGINEERS WATCHMAKERS AND DESIGNERS CONTINUED TO SLEEK BLUE DIAL THIS NEW MODEL IS AVAIL ABLE I I I H U B LOT BIG BANG INTEGR AL TITANIUM THE BR AND CHOSE FOR THE INTRODUCTION OF SE ARCH FOR SOLUTIONS TO MAKE THE DRE AM COME TRUE AND AF TER FOUR YE ARS IN A TITANIUM VERSION WHICH IS SURPRISINGLY THINNER THAN EVER IN ITS NEW TITANIUM CASE ITS FIRST WATCH IN TITAN IUM THE MODEL IS OF RESE ARCH AND DEVELOPMENT ON FEBRUARY 7TH 2017 AT 7 47 PM THE ALTIPL ANO LIGHT AND IN A RED GOLD VERSION ENSURING A THIS MODEL OFFERS A STRE AMLINED PERSPEC EQUIPPED WITH A RELIABLE AND PRECISE 4 HZ ULTIMATE CONCEP T TOOK ITS FIRST BE AT MOST TIMEPIECES ARE MADE UP OF FOUR NOTICE ABLE PRESENCE ON THE WRIST TIVE OF TIME MODESTLY NAMED TIME ONLY IT AUTOM ATI C CALI BR E THE DATOM ATIC L155 1 L AYERS THE BE ZEL THE DIAL THE MOVEMENT AND THE CASE BACK PIAGET REMOVED II JAEGER LECOULTRE POLARIS DATE INSPIRED REFOCUSES ON THE ESSENTIAL HOURS MINUTES WITH A CENTR AL ROTOR THIS FOUR L AYER CONSTRUCTION TO CRE ATE A FUSION OF COMPONENTS THIS CON BY THE MEMOVOX POL ARIS OF 1968 THE POL ARIS SECONDS AND DATE WITHOUT ANY LOSS OF THE STRUCTION FE ATURES FIVE PATENTS THAT HAVE ENABLED THE MAISON TO CRE ATE A COLLECTION HAS DEFINED THE SPIRIT OF SPORTY MANUFACTURE S CHAR ACTERISTIC TR AITS THUS TIMEPIECE THAT IS A MERE 2MM IN HEIGHT E L EG A N C E AT JA EG ER L EC O U LT R E U S EF U L WE CAN STILL SEE THE INTEGR ATED BR ACELE T FUNCTIONS VINTAGE AESTHE TIC TR AITS AND THAT IS A BIG PLUS WITH THE BIG BANG INTEGR AL is now advancing its pawns Alongside the Masterpiece Heritage Elegance and Sport models the latest Evolution 9 has recently become a talking point The latter collection exhibits a new grammar of design that enhances the Grand Seiko Style established in 1967 continued Akio Naito One of the rst expressions of the new Evolution 9 style was the Hi Beat White birch model that won the Men s Watch prize at the 2021 Grand Prix d Horlogerie de Geneve Needless to say all ve of our collections are very important to Grand Seiko Each one has its own unique characteristics and with all ve I think Grand Seiko now covers the full spectrum as a luxury watch brand International recognition recognition by its watchmaking peers in a few years Grand Seiko has become the brand to assure Japanese watchmaking tradition a rm footing in a eld largely dominated by the Western world A positioning that strongly resonates with Nature The traditional Japanese respect for nature lies at the heart of every Grand Seiko watch commented Akio Naito I believe that a fundamental af nity for nature is common to all cultures across the world and I think this is why Grand Seiko s brand philosophy The Nature of Time resonates so well with watch fans regardless of where they live For Akio Naito the emotional link with his watch a symbol of nature enhanced by the attention to detail that typi es the Japanese sets apart Grand Seiko s creations which are building themselves a future as solid as the rings of century old timber Christophe Roulet In 2020 it had prepared the ground by unveiling a concept movement which could easily have been taken for a pure exercise in style This would have been to misjudge the Grand Seiko brand and its determination to join the elite circle of haute horlogerie brands This year the brand is turning trial concepts into reality by presenting the Kodo Constant force Tourbillon model a world rst at the Watches and Wonders trade fair Ever since the brand s inception 62 years ago Grand Seiko was designed to be the very best watch we could create explained Akio Naito President of Seiko Watch Corp It represented our founder Kintaro Hattori s dream to create what he called exquisite timepieces Kodo re ects his dream and Grand Seiko s never ending pursuit of high accuracy watchmaking It incorporates a patented mechanism in which a constant force mechanism is integrated with a tourbillon as a single unit on the same axis to deliver a level of stable accuracy unprecedented for a Grand Seiko mechanical movement So yes the Kodo is a signi cant milestone in the 62 year history of Grand Seiko But it also re ects our commitment to innovate in the future As you say Kodo is our rst grande complication It will not be our last The rapid rise in Grand Seiko s manufacturing capabilities is an unmistakable sign Grand Seiko watches for a long time reserved for Japanese a cionados alone embarked on their international conquest in 2010 giving rise to an independent brand managed as such seven years later For the last two years Grand Seiko has also had its own Natural affinity For Akio Naito there is therefore no doubt that Grand Seiko s strategy was the right one We are extremely satis ed with our decision to open up sales to the global market A great many watch lovers from all over the world have come to appreciate Grand Seiko over the past twelve years I nd it quite remarkable that in this relatively short period and in the even shorter time since Grand Seiko s independence from Seiko in 2017 Grand Seiko has established such a strong presence in major markets around the world Sales have been quite robust and are still growing strongly It is with ve well established collections that the brand GRAND SEIKO KODO CONSTANT FORCE TOURBILLON SLGT003 WITH THIS WATCH ATURES GIVING A TOTAL DUR ATION OF T WICE THAT OF THE INDUSTRIAL STAND GR AND SEIKO EVOLUTION 9 COLLECTION SLGA015 THE BL ACK STRE AM THAT FROM THE COLLECTION NAMED AF TER THE JAPANESE WORD FOR HE ARTBE AT ARD FURTHERMORE E ACH MOVEMENT IS EVALUATED OVER A PERIOD OF 34 DAYS FLOWS ALONG THE SHORES OF THE JAPANESE ARCHIPEL AGO ONE OF THE KODO GR AND SEIKO PRESENTS ITS FIRST MECHANICAL COMPLICATION WATCH WITH A DE TAILED PERFORMANCE REPORT BEING INCLUDED IN THE INDIVIDUAL STRONGEST OCE AN CURRENTS IN THE WOR LD INSPIRED THE DEEP BL ACK IN A 43 80 MM DIAMETER PL ATINUM AND TITANIUM CASE WE FIND AN INNOVA CERTIFICATE THAT COMES WITH IT THE WATCH COMES ON A CALFSKIN STR AP COLOUR OF THE TE X TURED DIAL OF THIS NE W DIVER S WATCH PROPOSED TIVE AND STABLE CALIBRE WITH A DAILY RUNNING R ATE ERROR ME ASURED AT WITH AN APPLICATION OF URUSHI L ACQUER THIS SKELE TONIZED WATCH WAS BY GR AND SEI KO I N ITS E VOLUTION 9 COLLECTION WATER RES ISTANT TO 5 3 SECONDS IT COMBINES A TOURBILLON AND A CONSTANT FORCE MECH MADE BY A TE AM OF THE BR AND S ELITE THESE E XPERT WATCHMAKERS JOINED 200 ME TRES THIS WATCH IS DRIVEN BY THE SPRING DRIVE CALIBRE 9R A5 A ANISM IN A SINGLE UNIT ON A SINGLE A XIS A WORLD FIRST IN WATCHMAKING A NEW STUDIO IN GINZ A TOK YO NE AR THE HISTORICAL SPOT WHERE SEIKO S MOVEMENT WITH A PRECISION OF 10 SECONDS PER MONTH AND A POWER THIS CALIBRE 9ST1 THUS SE TS A NEW PRECISION STANDARD E ACH MOVEMENT STORY BEGAN THIS STUDIO WILL SERVE AS A NEW PL ATFORM FOR COMPLICA RESERVE OF FIVE DAYS THE INNER PART OF THE ROTATING BE ZEL IS IN CER AMIC IS TESTED FOR 48 HOURS IN E ACH OF THE SIX POSITIONS AND AT THREE TEMPER TION MECHANICAL WATCHES FROM GR AND SEIKO TO PROTECT THE WATCH FROM SCR ATCHES studio in Shizukuishi in the north of the island of Honshu for the production of all the brand s mechanical models And having come so far the brand has no intention of stopping In the wake of the Kodo model Kodo meaning heartbeat in Japanese it is in the process of setting up a new studio in Ginza Tokyo a stone s throw from the site where the Seiko adventure began in 1881 The Atelier Ginza is unlike any of our other studios said Akio Naito It will be a creative space where the nest watchmakers and designers from every part of our company can come together to develop new ideas and explore new technologies and new designs We hope that the Atelier will create truly unique one of a kind timepieces that bring new value to watchmaking Kodo is an excellent example a hint of what we expect the Atelier will create in the future

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48 WATCH YOUR TIME ECOLOGY FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 49 A positive impact The United Nations Sustainable Development Goals struck a chord with the Oris brand which achieved carbon neutrality in 2021 and carries out its own actions for the protection of water resources From that year the brand committed itself to reducing its carbon footprint by 10 per year in particular through the installation of photovoltaic panels that will cover 60 of its electricity consumption As a company and as an industry we owe it to ourselves to ensure that all our actions have a neutral even positive impact on the environment explains Rolf Studer CEO of Oris And these are not just empty words The motto Change for the Better that appears in the brand s communications inspired a good many Oris watches conceived in conjunction with ambassadors humanitarian associations and other environmental protection organizations Among these organizations are the Coral Restoration foundation which takes care of the coral reefs off the Florida coast the Spanish Institute of Oceanography which studies the underwater volcano El Hierro in the Canary Islands and the Australian Marine Conservation Society which takes action to protect the Great Barrier Reef For each of these initiatives there is a corresponding watch whose sales help nance these associations An example the Whale Shark Limited Edition watch dedicated to the protection of the whale shark and its ambassador Gerardo del Villar an underwater photographer who has been immortalizing the animal for more than fteen years I Bvlgari is celebrating ten years of the Octo collection with one of the thinnest watches in the world And is launching new Serpenti Misteriosi models with a miniature mechanical movement of 12 30 mm in diameter II V Refined elegance An adventurer among adventurers Mike Horn has been associated with Panerai for nearly two decades Indeed the Florence based brand accompanied him on his last four expeditions Arktos North Pole Pangaea and Pole2Pole creating a series of watches for the occasion in limited editions that have become collectors items Under the slogan Explore learn and act Mike Horn and Panerai seek to draw attention to the importance of protecting the planet s natural resources That is why Panerai decided to work together with UNESCO to develop activities promoting awareness of the oceans as part of the United Nations Decade of Ocean Science for Sustainable Development 2021 2030 The objective is to defend a sustainable environment and a healthy ocean explains the watchmaker whose production started with naval instruments But that is no reason for Panerai to forget terra rma its Neuch tel site claims to have a neutral environmental impact To this end the Manufacture reduced its CO2 emissions as far as possible both in production and in its sales activities As Panerai has indeed understood the recycling of materials plays a decisive role in sustainable development Thus in 2021 the brand unveiled its Submersible eLAB ID a concept watch composed of over 98 recycled materials After this rst model three versions of the Luminor Marina are being proposed this year in eSteel recycled steel In the same spirit Panerai promises that 30 of its models will be produced from recycled materials by 2025 Decidedly ecological watchmaking is no longer a mirage III IIII VI VII At Bvlgari the years pass and end up resembling each other so accustomed has the Italian brand become to breaking records for thin watches This year is no exception to the rule and crowns what can without any doubt be considered a decade of innovation that watchmaking has seldom seen Bvlgari is a jewellery brand that sets out to contribute to the elegance of its clients explained Jean Christophe Babin in the daily newspaper Le Temps And the new standard of masculine elegance these last ten years has been the slim t The idea was therefore to develop the 21st century man s watch with properties that go well with the fashion in clothing The plan was successful beyond all expectations as Bvlgari s development of technical expertise in parallel with the brand s progressive integration of all the watchmaking professions was widely appreciated In ten years records accumulated in practically all technical areas from the simple watch to complications The only trophy still missing was that of the thinnest hours minutes and seconds mechanical watch ever made a feat contested by other Swiss Manufactures However this year it looks as though Bvlgari with its Octo Finissimo Ultra has taken another step forward This watch with its depth of 1 80 mm the equivalent in thickness of a 20 euro cent coin proved to be not only the unexpected bombshell of the year but also a form of consecration for Bvlgari whose technical expertise is now con rmed and widely recognized in a profession not readily given to proffering compliments With the Octo Finissimo Ultra we were obliged to rethink watch fundamentals completely added Jean Christophe Babin who has headed the brand since 2013 Bvlgari has taken the ultra thin watch into the realm of grand complications by introducing new technologies and new knowhow ling eight patents in the process Taking achievement to the limits Such an approach required a re examination of the whole concept of the mechanical watch For you won t create one of the thinnest mechanical watches in the world by sticking to well known concepts You have to forget everything and start again from scratch as Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani Creative Director at Bvlgari explains We had to break all the rules in terms of design not just of the movement but also of the case case back bracelet and even the folding clasp In this sense the Octo Finissimo Ultra is without question the ultimate complication in the eld of ultra miniaturisation Everything had to be redesigned to enable the watch s 170 components to be installed on the case back which doubles as a main plate and is made of tungsten carbide for rigidity Components so thin that they have to ful l several functions like the dial which serves for the display and for the support of several parts of the mechanism But the innovation doesn t stop there Engraved on the winding wheel the watch s QR code provides access to special virtual world Even better the owner receives as a bonus an exclusive work of NFT art guaranteeing the watch s authenticity and the link that connects them via Bvlgari Singvlarity technology this creation s eighth patent The world of ultra thin mechanisms isn t Bvlgari s only eld of expression In parallel with the Octo Finissimo Ultra the brand also looked at the miniaturization of calibres Thus it is presenting four new Serpenti Misteriosi a name that evokes the concept of a secret watch When the snake s tongue is pushed a dial appears that of a detachable timepiece housed in a receptacle built into the reptile s head This oval module topped with a round dial paved with diamonds contains the manual calibre BVL 100 of extreme dimensions a diameter of 12 30 mm and a depth of 2 50 mm for a weight of scarcely 1 30 grams The miniaturization of the 102 components was pushed to its limits with for example a barrel with a diameter of 5 mm and a depth of 1 47 mm housing a spring of 170 mm in length For Bvlgari the limits of what is possible are just challenges to take on rewarded by a record unlike Eric Dumatin any other I MONTBL ANC 1858 ICED SEA AUTOMATIC DATE FOR III TUDOR BLACK BAY PRO THIS NEW BL ACK BAY PRO V GRAND SEIKO EVOLUTION 9 SPRING DRIVE GMT 9R66 BY THE KENISSI MANUFACTURE FOR THE FIRST TIME T H I S N E W D I V ER S WATC H WAT ER R ES I STA N T TO FROM TUDOR PROPOSES A DIAMETER OF 39 MM A FIXED WITH THEIR UN IQUE SMOOTH LY G LID ING SECONDS NAMELY THE CALIBRE TH30 00 300 METRES MONTBL ANC DREW ITS INSPIR ATION FROM STEEL BE ZEL AND A MANUFACTURE CALIBRE WITH GMT HANDS THE SPR ING DR IVE WATCHES FROM GR AND VI I TISSOT SE ASTAR 20 0 0 PROFESSIONAL POWER THE SPECIAL LUMINOSIT Y OF THE ALPINE GL ACIERS THE INDICATION BY A 24 HOUR HAND THE COSC CERTI SEIKO REFLECT THE CONTINUOUS SILENT AND GENTLE MATIC 80 THE TISSOT SE ASTAR 2000 PROFESSIONAL FROSTED DIAL WAS PRODUCED USING AN ANCIENT FIED MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5652 DISPL AYS A RUN PASSING OF TIME THIS FEELING OF PROXIMIT Y WITH IS THE AUTOMATIC DIVER S WATCH MODEL PAR E XCEL TECHNIQUE KNOWN AS GR AT T BOIS WITH WHICH IT NING R ATE VARIATION OF 2 4 SECONDS DAY A BET TER NATURE IS REINFORCED BY THIS SPRING DRIVE GMT LENCE PERFECTLY RELIABLE TO A PRESSURE OF 60 BAR IS POSSIBLE TO OBTAIN ALTERNATING LE VELS OF BRIL PERFORMANCE THAN REQUIRED BY THE L ABEL MODEL WITH ITS LIGHT GREY DIAL BE ARING A MOTIF OF 600 M 2000 F T IT IS THE PROOF THAT AN UNDERWA BVLGARI SERPENTI MISTERIOSI THE NEW SERPENTI MISTERIOSI MODELS ARE BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO ULTR A IN ONE DECADE THE OCTO COLLECTION HAS INALE 2012 OCTO FINISSIMO 2014 AND OCTO ROMA 2017 GOING BEYOND LIANCE ON THE MOTIFS IIII LONGINE S LEGEND DIVER SINCE ITS L AUNCH IN COMPLEX TEXTURE INSPIRED BY THE WINTRY MORNING TER SPORTS WATCH AND A SOPHISTICATED AUTOMATIC THE FRUIT OF NEW FE ATS OF MINIATURIZ ATION AND SYMBOLIZE THE MEE TING WON ALL THE AWARDS IN ALL SOME 60 INTERNATIONAL PRIZES THAT HAVE HON THE ESTABLISHED RULES AND PUSHING BACK THE LIMITS IS IN THE VERY NATURE I I PA N E R A I SU B M ER S I B LE QUAR ANTAQUAT T R O 2007 THE LONGINES LEGEND DIVER HAS APPE ALED TO MIST IN THE SHINSHU REGION TIMEPIECE CAN BE BROUGHT TOGE THER IN A SINGLE OF JE WELLERY E XCELLENCE WITH THE BR AND S ROMAN AESTHE TIC S THE OURED THE COLLECTION INCLUDING THE AIGUILLE D OR THE SUPREME REC OF THE OCTO FINISSIMO LINE AS DEMONSTR ATED BY THE SAGA OF THE WORLD PANER AI S HISTORY IS MARKED BY INNOVATION AND AN IMPRESSIVE NUMBER OF ENTHUSIASTS AT TR ACTED V I TAG H E U E R AQUAR ACER PROFESSIONAL 10 0 0 INSTRUMENT FOUR NEW SERPENTI SECRE T WATCHES RE VISIT THE ICONIC DESIGN OF THE OMPENSE AT THE GR AND PRIX D HORLOGERIE DE GEN VE EVENT IN 2021 THIS RECORDS SE T BY THE COLLECTION WHICH IS ABSOLUTELY UNIQUE IN THE THE DESIRE TO CRE ATE TOOLS THAT MAKE IT POSSIBLE BY ITS SIMPLE E XPRESSION OF LONGINES WE ALTH OF SUPERDIVER TAG HEUER IS PRESENTING AN E XTREME 1950S ALL ARE FIT TED WITH THE NEW PICCOLISSIMO MECHANICAL MOVEMENT REMARK ABLE ASCENSION UNDERLINES BVLGARI S ABILIT Y TO MARRY DIFFER HISTORY OF WATCHMAKING THESE RECORDS COVER CHRONOMETRIC ACOUS TO SEEK ADVENTURE IN COM PLE TE FREEDOM WITH E XPERIENCE IN THE DIVER S WATCH FIELD THE STORY EDITION OF ITS AQUAR ACER THE PROFESSIONAL 1000 ONE OF THE SMALLEST IN THE WORLD ENTIRELY DESIGNED AND PRODUCED ENT WORLDS ALLYING SWISS MASTERY OF WATCHMAKING WITH ITALIAN ELE TIC AND ASTRONOMICAL COMPLICATIONS THE L ATEST E XPLOIT IS THE ULTR A THE L AUNCH OF THE PANER AI SUBMERSIBLE QUAR AN CONTINUES WITH NEW MODELS IN SANDY BEIGE ASH SUPERDIVER A TIMEPIECE THAT IS DESIGNED FOR GREAT BY BVLGARI THIS BVL100 CALIBRE BRE ATHES NEW LIFE INTO THE MINUSCULE GANCE A FUSION THAT WAS PRESENTED FOR THE FIRST TIME IN ROME IN 2012 VERSION OF THE OCTO FINISSIMO 1 80 MM IN DEP TH ONE OF THE THINNEST TAQUAT TRO THE 44 MM CASE TAKES UP POSITION IN THE GREY ROYAL BLUE AND INTENSE BURGUNDY COLOURS M AR I NE DEP THS WHAT S M OR E TH I S NE W M ODEL MECHANICAL MOTORS PRESENT IN ALL THESE WOMEN S WATCHES UNTIL THE AND R APIDLY CONSOLIDATED BVLGARI S POSITION AS A WATCHMAKER WITH MECHANICAL WATCHES IN THE WORLD HE ART OF THE SUBMERSIBLE COLLECTION OF DIVER S MAR KS AN I M PORTANT M I LESTONE FOR THE BR AND BEGINNING OF THE 1970S THE DE VELOPMENT OF THREE LINES AND AS MANY E XPRESSIONS OCTO L ORIG WATCHES JOINING THE 47 MM E T 42 MM MODELS WHICH IS USING AN E XCLUSIVE MOVEMENT PRODUCED

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CERTIFICATION WATCH YOUR TIME 51 Let there be light o Vincent Daveau Happy the man who has been able to learn the causes of things Virgil 70 19 B C P H OTO D AV I D B E L L E M E R E C A M E L S U E D E S H I R T C L A U D I E P I E R LOT B R O W N F E LT H AT S T E T S O N Over the last five years more and more watchmaking brands have been adopting an ethical approach based on authenticity traceability and recycling backed up by certifications Spotlight on a business that is going green at full speed Very fortunately sustainable development has become a veritable social phenomenon Thus the watchmaking brands are paying increasing attention to the environment and putting in place ecological strategies What is good for the planet is good for the company and its image Thirty years ago watchmaking brands communications centred above all on their humanitarian actions Today ecology requires local actions in order to contribute to the improvements that are essential for slowing global warming The Chernobyl accident gave us a sinister reminder of the fact that pollution knows no borders And the same goes for the measures taken to limit it Moreover what the brands do to improve their immediate environment is all the more positive in that the actions taken have an immediately comprehensible and bene cial contagious effect on a maximum number of people This increasing consciousness results in participation albeit modest in the saving of the planet GR AND SEIKO HERITAGE SBGA413 SHUNBUN GR AND SEIKO SEEKS ITS INSPIR ATION IN THE NOTION OF PASSING TIME ONE THAT IS VERY IMPORTANT IN JAPAN THE MANUFACTURE PAYS TRIBUTE TO THE NOW ICONIC 62GS MODEL WITH THE L AUNCH OF FOUR TIMEPIECES THAT CELEBR ATE THE NATURE OF TIME AND THE T WENT Y FOUR JAPANESE SEKKI THAT MARK THE CONSTANT CHANGING OF THE SE ASONS IN JAPAN THE SEKKI OFFER A POE TIC JOURNEY WHERE NATURE AWAKES BLOOMS MATURES THEN FALLS ASLEEP THIS TITANIUM WATCH WHICH SYMBOLIZES SHUNBUN THE SPRING EQUINOX WHEN THE CHERRY TREES ARE IN FULL BLOSSOM IS EQUIPPED WITH THE 9R65 CALIBRE THIS SPRING DRIVE MOVEMENT ASSOCIATES CUT TING EDGE TECHNOLOGY WITH THE KNOW HOW OF THE WATCHMAKERS RESPONSIBLE FOR ITS SE T TING WITH A PRECISION OF 15 SECONDS PER MONTH Ethical chic The argument that the watchmaking industry causes little pollution and is concerned about the environment is repeated as a leitmotiv by all the brands It is well known that the Manufactures draw most of their energy from green and renewable sources As in the 19th century they use hydroelectricity to power their machines in a mountainous country like Switzerland where energy from hydraulic sources covers nearly 70 of the country s current consumption Given their low demand for raw materials the layman deduces that watchmaking brands are not at all responsible for the

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52 WATCH YOUR TIME RUBRIQUE High in the sky To judge by watchmaking production since the turn of the decade mankind has discovered a sporting nature rarely known in the past If it s not diving into the marine depths it s nose in the air scanning for clouds before taking off into the azure sky Lockdowns around the world produced a thirst for freedom which expresses itself in action And action also means adequate instruments for the purpose In other words watches made for sport and adventure Precisely the type of timepieces that Alpina has made its speciality particularly those designed for aviation enthusiasts Established in 1883 Alpina was around at the time of the pioneers of aviation points out the brand that has become a reference where professional pilots watches are concerned For the rst 50 years of the last century Alpina was notably the of cial supplier of military aviation watches to continental air forces Meeting strict demands these instruments had to be extremely precise and offer maximum resistance to shocks In addition Alpina pilots watches were mostly equipped with an anti magnetic case and highly contrasting dials with luminescent hands and numerals for immediate readability We nd these same characteristics in the very latest Startimer Pilot Automatic proposed in the spirit of the brand s rst military timepieces those watches from the beginning of the last century that hark back to Alpina s origins The brand is presenting this Startimer with a new stainless steel case a new bezel with a notched pro le from the period new cathedral hands and a new diameter of 41 mm with a back bearing the collection s characteristic engraving an aeroplane ready to y over the mountains An onion crown and the date at 6 o clock complete the model Alpina proposes this new product on a calfskin strap in two colour versions with a blue or black dial the latter version also being available with an integrated stainless steel bracelet C R FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 53 huge devastation that is plaguing the planet Despite all this the companies in the most visible branches of the industry anticipate the most restrictive environmental regulations and sing the praises of irreproachable industrial ethics As in the past high quality watches are for the most part fabricated by quali ed craftsmen using ancestral processes but now equipped with optimized digital control machine tools to limit heat losses and encourage the recycling of oils and waste Also mechanical watches offer a guarantee of extremely sustainable functioning since the only energy input comes from a spring wound by the movements of the wearer or by the turning of the crown What s more they are mostly repairable without any time limit All these qualities mean that mechanical time measuring instruments are by nature ecologically responsible products as brands such as Rolex Patek Philippe and Jaeger LeCoultre like to remind us Normally these explanations should convince the most ecologically exacting layman Only watchmaking ecological responsibility is no longer enough This is why more and more brands want to go further Some like Oris install photovoltaic panels on their roofs to reduce their energy bills Others develop geothermal energy or organize collective transport for their employees Certification on all sides To please the proponents of a more radical ecology those entities most concerned about their impact redouble their actions and labels to demonstrate their commitment on matters of ethics and ecological responsibility The Chopard brand uses only ethical gold in its production that is to say metal bought from certi ed suppliers In mid 2021 to remove any doubt about its supplies IWC obtained the Chain of Custody CoC certi cation issued by the Responsible Jewellery Council RJC to guarantee complete traceability of the gold and platinum used by the company At Jaeger LeCoultre also worried about the traceability of its precious metals the Manufacture uses mainly recycled gold for the production of its timepieces If some brands remain more evasive on these questions of traceability they all show a desire to adopt ethical and responsible practices We all recall the lm Blood Diamond and the documenta I II III IIII ALPINA STARTIMER PILOT AUTOMATIC ESTABLISHED IN 1883 AND FAMOUS FOR ITS I ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL YACHT MASTER 40 LIKE BUBBA WATSON IT MUST BE CAPABLE OF THE LUGS IN COMPOSITE AND THE PUSH PIECES EMBLEMATIC RED TRIANGLE ALPINA IS A SWISS WATCHMAKING MANUFACTURE BASED WHEN THE SKY MEETS THE SEA WHEN THE SUN STANDING UP TO THE CONSTR AINTS IMPOSED BY AND CROWN OF MOULDED RUBBER IN GENE VA THE BR AND SE T ITSELF THE OBJECTIVE OF DESIGNING SPORTS WATCHES EMERGES FROM THE WAVES THE AIR IS FILLED ABRUPT STOPS AND ACCELER ATIONS THESE ELE I I I I LONG I N E S SPIRIT 37MM THE LONG I NES THAT FUNCTION WITH PRECISION AND RELIABILIT Y IN THE MOST DEMANDING SPORTS WITH MOIR EFFECTS AND FLEETING COLOURS THE MENTS WERE TAKEN INTO ACCOUNT FOR THE RM SPIRIT MODEL CAN NOW BE WORN IN A 37 MM ENVIRONMENTS SUCH AS THE ALPS A PIONEER OF THE WATCHMAKING INDUSTRY NEW YACHT MASTER 40 SEIZES THESE EPHEMERAL 38 02 WHICH COMES WITH AN EXTERIOR IN PINK VERSION WITH A STAINLESS STEEL BR ACELE T ALPINA HAS FILED A NUMBER OF PATENTS AND PRODUCED MANY INNOVATIVE CALI INSTANTS TO PERPETUATE THEM ON THE WRIST ITS THE GOLFER S FAVOURED COLOUR OR A LE ATHER STR AP IT SPORTS A NE W SUN BRES IN ITS 138 YE ARS AT THE BEGINNING OF THE 20TH CENTURY ALPINA BECAME BEZEL SET WITH DIAMONDS AND SAPPHIRES IN I I I H U B LO T B I G BAN G I N T EG R AL G R EEN BRUSHED CHAM PAGNE COLOURED D IAL AND THE OFFICIAL SUPPLIER OF MILITARY PILOTS WATCHES AND IN 1938 THE BR AND DIS SHADES OF AZURE SILVER AND PINK IS INSPIRED C E R AM I C M O N O B LO C M O N O C H R O M AT I C IS EQUIPPED WITH THE L888 CALIBRE AN AUTO TINGUISHED ITSELF IN THE WORLD OF SPORTS WATCHES WITH THE ALPINA 4 WHICH BY THE AUROR A BOREALIS AND THE DAWN GLOW MONOMATERIAL SUCH ARE THE CHAR ACTER MATIC MECHANICAL MOVEMENT WITH COSC CER ALRE ADY AT THAT TIME COMBINED ANTI MAGNETISM SHOCK RESISTANCE WATER RE II RICHARD MILLE RM 38 02 TOURBILLON BUBBA ISTICS OF THIS BIG BANG INTEGR AL CER AMIC TIFIED PRECISION A SILICON BAL ANCE SPRING SISTANCE AND A STAINLESS STEEL CASE THIS APPROACH TO WATCHMAKING CONTIN WATSON GOLF MAKES AN IDE AL TEST BENCH PROPOSED IN GREEN SINCE 2020 OR 15 YE ARS AND A 72 HOUR POWER RESERVE UES TO PERVADE THE ALPINA COLLECTIONS AND THE STARTIMER R ANGE IN PARTICUL AR FOR RICHARD M ILLE WATCHES BECAUSE THIS AF TER ITS L AUNCH THE BIG BANG HAS BORNE SPORT DEMANDS A LOT OF PHYSICAL FORCE ON AN INTEGR ATED BR ACELE T THAT TAKES UP THE THE WRIST OF AN EXCELLENT LONG DRIVE PLAYER CASE S 100 CER AMIC WITH THE EXCEPTION OF Journey to the centre of time The Arceau Le Temps Voyageur watch succeeds the Arceau L Heure De La Lune model After the journey in space it s now the journey in time that has profited from this dream like interpretation so dear to Herm s Always a little different That could be the motto of Herm s who considers time measurement as an area for humour and fantasy which the brand nevertheless conjures up with the rigour of a watchmaker In the last few years Herm s has presented a number of watches that provide singular interpretations of time monitoring Beginning with the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu 2014 followed by the Dressage L Heure Masqu e 2014 and the Slim L Heure Impatiente 2017 example after example of implacable technology at the service of whimsical timekeeping evolving in line with the watch wearer s appreciation of the moment However this trilogy couldn t just end there So in 2019 Herm s presented the Arceau L Heure De La Lune watch offering a new perspective on the phases of the moon This Arceau features a decidedly innovative display for the occasion In place of a rotating disc bearing two moons that appear alternately in an aperture shaped like a sector of a circle two moons are portrayed on the dial fashioned from meteorite progressively covered by two counters orbiting their way around the dial to depict the phases seen from each hemisphere To orchestrate this new choreography the watch is driven by the Herm s H1837 Manufacture movement complete with an exclusive patented module produced by Chronode On the dial side the two lacquered orbiting counters one for the hours and minutes the other for the date glide over two moons in mother of pearl It hardly need be said that this highly original representation of a great watchmaking classic did not go unnoticed at the same time giving Herm s designers some ideas for a suitable follow up to these lunar hours It was indeed this orbital technology that inspired us when three years ago we embarked on a new project consisting in devising a travel watch explains Philippe Delhotal Herm s Watchmaking s Creative Director A project that is important to us because Herm s is a brand for frequent travellers as much as for the equestrian world We wanted to incorporate these various elements but at the same time impregnate these multiple time zone watches with our slightly quirky and playful vision Moreover the choice of Chronode for the development of this new mechanism was only natural As for the L Heure De La Lune Chronode designed an additional module for the Herm s H1837 Manufacture movement to drive the new Arceau Le Temps Voyageur with 122 components Head in the stars Herm s could not have chosen a better name for its watch when we consider that the time indicated on an orbiting counter bearing the hours and minutes literally wends its way around the dial Very practically if the home time appears in an aperture at 12 o clock a push piece serves to set the local time by advancing the hours subdial bearing a small red indicator to align it with one of the 24 cities inscribed on a circular disc to represent the time zones In this way one passes from one capital to another much as one travels around the world not without a little reminder of Herm s origins The base of the galvanized laser engraved and lacquered dial reveals a fantastic map dreamed up by J r me Colliard for the Planisph re D Un Monde Equestre silk scarf with continents named Dressage Soins care and Ethologie Equine equine ethology However this panorama of travel in space and time would not have been complete without a M tiers d Art watch to introduce the dream like aspect particularly cherished by Herm s Enter the Arceau Les Folies Du Ciel watch to complete this wild odyssey Evasion discovery and curiosity are at the heart of the journey embodied by Les Folies Du Ciel Herm s explains Before the aeroplane became the established means of crossing land and sea man sought rst of all to take to the air to reach for the sky The rst aircraft took off but did not yet move these were the aerostats The horse offered distance the aerostat provided the third dimension altitude The Arceau Les Folies Du Ciel expresses this both in watchmaking terms and artistically a question of keeping one s head in the stars Christophe Roulet HE RM S ARCE AU LE TEMPS VOYAGEUR ALRE ADY WOR K ING ON THE ARCE AU ING THE HOURS SUBDIAL BE AR ING A SMALL RED INDICATOR TO ALIGN IT WITH HERM S ARCEAU LES FOLIES DU CIEL THIS WATCH EVOKES TR AVEL AND THE FIRST L HEUR E DE L A LUNE WATCH CHRONODE WAS THE NATUR AL CHO ICE FOR ONE OF THE 24 C ITI ES I NSCR I BED ON A C I RCU L AR D I SC TO R EPR ESENT THE AEROSTAT FLIGHTS ON A DIAL IN MOTHER OF PEARL TWO HOT AIR BALLOONS IN THIS NE W ARCE AU LE TEMPS VOYAGEUR WHICH ADOP TS THE SAME SATELLITE TIME ZONES IN THIS WAY ONE PASSES FROM ONE CAPITAL TO ANOTHER MUCH NEOR ALITHE INFLATE IN GREEN AND PINK THEIR CANVAS BAKED IN AN OVEN TAKES C ONCEP T TO AN I M ATE TH I S M ODEL CHRONODE DES IGNED AN ADD ITIONAL AS ONE TR AVELS AROUND THE WOR LD NOT WITHOUT A LIT TLE REM I NDER OF ON A CURVED RELIEF THAT GIVES AN IMPRESSION OF THE VOLUME OF HOT AIR FILLING M O D U LE W I TH 122 C O M P O N EN TS F O R TH E H ER M S 18 37 M A N U FACT U R E HER M S OR IG I NS THE BASE OF THE GALVAN IZED L ASER ENGR AVED AND THEM AND ENABLING THEM TO TAKE OFF THE TWO BALLOONS ARE ATTACHED TO A M OVEM ENT THE TI M E I S I ND I CATED ON AN OR B I TI NG C OUNTER SHOWI NG L AC QUER ED D IAL R E VE ALS A FANTASTI C M AP DR E AM ED UP BY J R M E C OL GONDOLA IN WHITE GOLD HAND PAINTED IN THE FORM OF A BIRD AT 12 O CLOCK A THE HOURS AND M I NUTES WH I CH LITER ALLY WENDS ITS WAY AROUND THE LIAR D FOR THE P L AN I SPH R E D UN M ONDE EQUESTR E S I LK SCAR F WITH MOVING BALLOON HOVERS OVERHEAD APPLIED AND HAND PAINTED CONCEIVED AS D IAL VERY PR ACTI CALLY WH I LE THE HOM E TI M E APPE ARS I N AN APER TUR E CONTINENTS NAMED DRESSAGE SOINS CARE AND E THOLOGIE EQUINE A BALANCE IT TURNS ON ITSELF IN THE AIR IN REACTION TO THE MOVEMENTS OF THE AT 12 O C LOC K A PUSH P I ECE SERVES TO SE T THE LOCAL TI M E BY ADVANC EQU I NE E THOLOGY WRIST IN AN EXPRESSION OF THE LIGHT HEARTED SPIRIT OF HERM S CREATIONS

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All you need to know about watches since the year 2000 54 WATCH YOUR TIME RUBRIQUE FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 55 ries that followed revealing the devastation caused by clandestine gold mining We are all aware of the concerns about Russian diamonds The recent enthusiasm of the watchmaking companies for special steels derives from a similar concern about traceability and respect for the environment If Chopard launched its Lucent Steel A223 for the Alpine Eagle if Grand Seiko proposed its Ever Brilliant Steel and Omega its O Megasteel this also served to underline identity and difference The question here is not just to propose metals incorporating percentages of recycled steel like Panerai with its eSteel and like the company Panatere in Saignel gier but also to have a speci c and identity building metal as has been the case since 1985 with Rolex s proposal of their Oystersteel a type of 904L stainless steel that is both hard and highly corrosion resistant Recycling on the menu Today more than ever the watchmaking industry needs to demonstrate the battle it is waging for industrial ecology and the defence of the environment A struggle that largely focuses on the preservation of the oceans The ght against plastics is at the heart of the actions and particularly bene ts the companies specialized in the recycling of used shing nets Oris turns them into dials Alpina into 70 of the cases for a series of ecological watches and others make straps boxes and window display items from them Some like Omega and Blancpain sponsor beach cleaning operations wild animal rescues or scienti c expeditions while others like Carl F Bucherer focus their attention on saving marine animals such as the manta rays To everyone their cause it could be said Thus the brands Cartier Oris Ulysse Nardin Longines IWC and many others offer straps in materials of non animal origin In the end it has to be said that sustainable development is still struggling to gain a footing in the face of individual liberties For the watchmaking brands though ecological responsibility is no longer an option but truly an obligation if they are to preserve their relations with clients increasingly aware of social and environmental issues There is still a long road ahead particularly bearing in mind that the main watchmaking markets are also the planet s most polluting countries But isn t this a magni cent opportunity for the luxury industry to give the example With the new RM 47 Tourbillon the Richard Mille brand provides a demonstration that the watchmaker s art tuned for performance knows perfectly well how to capitalize on the spirituality of the arts field A shared spirit that finds expression in the world of the Samurais Discover the 2020 2030 collection on the watch book com I II III 2022 edition The art of the Samurais IIII As sharp as a katana and as light as a falcon s feather the RM 47 Tourbillon presented this year serves as a machine to go back in time to travel to 18th century Japan where the 47 r nin lived According to this historical legend which forms part of the Japanese culture it was during this period that these Samurais decided to avenge their lord Asano Naganori unjustly condemned to death Patiently awaited and planned over two years the punitive expedition took place on a winter s night and led to the decapitation of the high dignitary responsible for their misfortune For their loyalty the 47 r nin were accorded the right to atone for their crime honourably by seppuku a collective ritual suicide which raised them to the rank of national heroes faithful to the Bushido the Samurais code of virtue whatever the consequences A simple glance at the RM 47 Tourbillon suf ces to feel part of a full assault alongside these 47 warriors dashing towards immortality The watch has indeed been carefully thought out to leave plenty of room for a Samurai suit of armour that is fully visible both on the dial side and at the back of the black ceramic case with its gold middle The tourbillon movement of compact design thus makes a very discreet appearance while the r nin comes to life under his shell Connoisseurs will appreciate the emblem of the Asano clan consisting of two falcon feathers crossed a warrior s symbol par excel lence They will appreciate the kabuto the traditional helmet with its front decoration its clan crest on the winglets and its mask grimacing with fury They won t fail to notice that the two sabres in their scabbards are presented with the cutting edges of their blades upwards ready for combat Finally they will note the maple leaf on the crown a symbol of grace and beauty but also of the brevity of life Perfect craftsmanship Such detailed precision in the eleven sculpted engraved and partially painted gold elements that form the watch s ornamentation such harmony between watchmaking mechanics and artistic crafts such design accuracy with the empty spaces revealing the full forms All this constitutes an almost initiatory process worthy of the Bushido We were contacted in 2019 for this project with Richard Mille explained Pierre Alain Lozeron the engraver It was a question of crafting a suit of Samurai armour to be incorporated into a tourbillon movement Suf ce it to say that the initial idea struck us as totally impossible to achieve But we began to think carry out some research and share our ideas with the Richard Mille teams The result being that once the initial shock had passed we found some solutions The rst attempts were made in modelling clay then on brass prototypes with progressive re nement of the work After many trials we actually managed to achieve the nal product The RM 47 Tourbillon from Richard Mille creates emotion in its pure state trompe l il sculpture a wealth of detail obtained with the aid of twenty different chisels for the various structures and textures of the armour colouring with translucent paint subsequently baked in an oven The challenge lies in ensuring that the painting and the engraving enhance one another mutually noted Val rie Lozeron a miniaturist painter Insuf ciently translucent the colour would mask the subtlety of the detail obtained by engraving Too light it would reduce the effect of depth that it is supposed to accentuate Richard Mille has already brought this subtle blend of the dexterity of artistic crafts and cutting edge mechanics to our attention often with this disconcerting approach that the brand masters so well Whether one thinks of the RM 68 01 Tourbillon Cyril Kongo which required the special development of an aerograph for the pulverization of the colours onto the titanium movement or the RM 57 03 Tourbillon Sapphire Dragon which also required the devising of new production processes for the decorating components in sapphire using laser technology in particular In this case no aerograph or laser but more classical techniques devoted to the same ultimate goal perfect craftsmanship Christophe Roulet I CHOPARD ALPINE EAGLE FROZEN INSPIRED BY STANT GIR ARD AND MARIE PERREGAUX THIS TIME IIII LONGINES ULTR A CHRON INSPIRED BY THE THE GR ACE OF THE EAGLE AND THE MA JESTY OF PIECE POSSESSES A 38 MM DIAMETER CASE IN 18 CT LONGINES ULTR A CHRON DIVER OF 1968 THIS THE ALPS CHOPARD S SPORTY CHIC COLLECTION PINK GOLD THANKS TO ITS NUMEROUS PRECIOUS MODEL AND ITS HIGH FREQUENCY MOVEMENT WELCOMES A SERIES OF NEW INTERPRETATIONS IN STONES AND ITS REFINED FINISHES THIS BR AND REPRESENT THE FIRST REINTERPRE TATION OF THE ALPINE EAGLE FROZEN WATCHES ENTIRELY NEW CREATION MAKES A SPLENDID ODE TO LOVE WHAT MAKES LONGINES UNIQUE ITS PIONEER GEM SET ON THE BEZEL CASE AND INTEGR ATED I I I LOUIS VUIT TON TAMBOUR SLIM VIVIENNE STATUS IN THE WORLD OF TIME KEEPING FOR BRACELET THE DIAMONDS AND BLUE AND RAINBOW CASINO ON THE DIAL OF THIS WATCH TWO APER S P OR TS C O M PE T I T I ONS I T W I LL APPE A L TO RICHARD MILLE RM 47 TOURBILLON LIKE A GUARD THE SAMUR AI OF THE RM 47 AND BRIDGES ARE MADE OF BL ACK PVD COATED GR ADE 5 TITANIUM A BIOCOM RICHARD MILLE M TIERS D ART IT S IN THE CALM OF THE JUR A FOOTHILLS THAT SAPPHIRES EVOKE THE MINUSCULE FL AKES OF TURES INDICATE THE DATE WITH PANACHE EVERY BOTH CONNOISSEURS OF VINTAGE WATCHES TOURBILLON COMPRISES VARIOUS ELEMENTS THAT PROTECT THE MANUALLY PATIBLE ALLOY OF TEN USED IN THE AEROSPACE INDUSTRY THIS COMBINATION THE BUSHIDO CODES HAVE FOUND AN ORIGINAL FORM OF E XPRESSION IN THE FROST COVERING THE ALPINE GLACIERS SIXT Y MINUTES THE NUMER AL INDICATING THE AND LOVERS OF ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY WOUND CALIBRE RM 47 FROM EITHER FACE OF THE CASE THE TOURBILLON ENSURES GOOD CORROSION RESISTANCE REMARK ABLE RIGIDIT Y AND PERFECT CRE ATION OF AN ENGR AVED AND PAINTED SUIT OF SAMUR AI ARMOUR TOTALLY II GIR ARD PERREGAUX TOURBILLON TROIS HOURS INSTANTLY CHANGES PL ACE A FIRST IN CARRIAGE IS DISCREE TLY VISIBLE ALONG WITH CERTAIN ELEMENTS OF THE FL ATNESS OF THE SURFACES E VEN IF IT IS BY INTENTION DISCREE T THE WORK INTEGR ATED FRONT AND BACK INTO THE MOVEMENT OF THE RM 47 TOURBILLON PONTS D OR RUBY HEART THIS MODEL ALLIES THE HISTORY OF MODERN WATCHMAKING THIS GE ARTR AIN GIVING SUBSTANCE TO THIS REMARK ABLE WARRIOR WITH ITS ON THE BRIDGES AND THE MAIN PL ATE IS NONE THELESS E XCEP TIONAL THEIR A VERITABLE MASTERPIECE OF FINE ARTISTRY METICULOUSLY CR AF TED BY PIERRE HAUTE HORLOGERIE WITH A HEART OF NATUR AL WRIST WATCH CONTAINS AN ALTERNATING JUMP ENGR AVED AND PAINTED DECOR ATION THE MOVEMENT ACQUIRES A R ARE DEPTH COMPLE X LINES AND THE EFFECTS OF THE HAND FINISHING ARE VERY CHAR AC AL AIN LOZERON FOR THE ENGR AVING AND VAL RIE LOZERON FOR THE PAINTING RUBY INSPIRED BY THE ROMANTIC UNION OF CON ING HOURS MECHANISM AN OBVIOUS SIGN OF THE AT TENTION PAID TO THE DE TAILS AND FINISHES TO TERISTIC OF RICHARD MILLE S TECHNICAL DEMANDS ENSURE THE OPTIMAL FUNCTIONING OF THE MOVEMENT THE SKELETONIZED PLATE

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RECYCLING WATCH YOUR TIME 57 The ecology of time o Paolo De Vecchi o o Nature is in itself a living whole Georg Wilhelm Friedrich Hegel 1770 1831 P H OTO D AV I D B E L L E M E R E M O D E L C H A N TA L K H A I R M A K E U P H A I R N I C C I S T Y L I S T M A I K H A N H B E R T R A N D C LOT H E S N U E L I N G E R I E It certainly won t be watchmakers who save the world but it is a pleasure to note that faced with the problems of sustainable development the industry of time has reported present Since Antiquity Nature has been present in the arts and science of time measurement To start with as a subject of study submitted to scholars curious about celestial phenomena then in providing mechanics and master watchmakers with the materials allowing them to construct and decorate their marvellous masterpieces with skill and inventiveness Today much of humanity has become involved in tackling the harm caused to Nature in an understandable struggle to resolve the enormous problems that are putting it in danger For we are dramatically close to the point of noreturn the limit beyond which Nature will no longer be able to regulate itself leading to its self destruction It certainly won t be watchmakers who save the world but it is a pleasure to note that faced with these problems the industry of time has reported present as shown by the number of initiatives on matters of sustainability and protection of the environment sought by a whole series of brands Quite simply the steps taken may be recent but they nonetheless reveal an awareness of the subject as well as of resulting economic advantages and improved reputation But before describing the most representative cases it is important to stress the extent to which mechanical watches are sustainable the energy generated by the springs and transmitted to the gears is clean Without a negative impact on the environment it is regenerated and is thus sustainable over time SANTOS DE CARTIER SINCE ITS RE INTRODUCTION IN 2018 THE SANTOS DE CARTIER HAS BEEN THE BEST E X AMPLE OF THE SPORT Y CHIC WATCH A BLEND OF TR ADITIONAL DESIGN ROBUSTNESS AND INFORMALIT Y SINCE THEN IT HAS SEEN A NUMBER OF VARIATIONS NOT WITHOUT A TOUCH OF BOLDNESS ADDING TO THE CL ASSIC MODELS IN STAINLESS STEEL THE SKELE TONIZED VERSIONS AND THOSE BE ARING A BLUE DIAL OR A BL ACK DLC COATED CASE THE SANTOS DE CARTIER NOW COMES IN A SE T OF WIDE MODELS 39 8 MM X 47 5 MM WITH A NEW BLUE PVD COATED BE ZEL AND A NEW DIAL DECOR ATED WITH A NOVEL STRIPED MOTIF THE QUICKSWITCH SYSTEM ALLOWS E ASY SWITCHING BE T WEEN A STAINLESS STEEL BR ACELE T AND A BLUE RUBBER STR AP THE WATCH IS STILL DRIVEN BY THE CALIBRE 1847 MC A CL ASSIC AND RELIABLE MOVEMENT THAT TICKS AT 4 HZ AND CARRIES 42 HOURS OF POWER RESERVE Materials engineering Of course it has to be admitted that since the 1960s quartz technology has been decisive in the development of a certain type of industry that has allowed major progress in terms of precision and reliability without mentioning functionality and accessibility in terms of price But this technology created the problem of the batteries which the watch industry is facing today in the wake of the car industry To solve it at least partially traditional batteries have been replaced by

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58 WATCH YOUR TIME Time in poetry At Van Cleef Arpels the poetry of times is a dreamlike world populated by elves fairies and ballerinas This year s creations remain rmly in this imaginary world where watchmaking mechanisms are at the service of emotion For its Heures Florales watch Van Cleef Arpels drew inspiration from the concept of a oral clock dreamed up by Carl Von Linn in 1751 This principle gave birth to this watch whose three dimensional dial portrays the passing of time with poetry thanks to 12 corolla that open and close The reading of the time thus becomes a show as the owers burst open and close again at random renewing the dial s landscape every 60 minutes To bring these owers to life 166 components come into play in a module developed by the brand s Ateliers Horlogers in Geneva The hours reading is completed by a minutes display visible in an aperture in the case middle For each watch 226 elements have been decorated by miniature painting sculpted or set The case back in engraved gold with an engraved and enamelled sapphire glass provides a view of the oscillating weight in gold enhanced by guilloch work and miniature painting The brand s emblematic Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchant e watch plays with the same imaginary world This year the new version in white gold portrays a dancer s silhouette in a slender and dynamic posture On the new models the ballerina s body is sculpted in relief in the gold while her hair face bust and waist are sketched in diamonds the brand explains She gracefully stretches out her arms over the veils of her tutu which are superimposed in transparency A rst xed corolla in champlev enamel sapphires and diamonds clothes the dancer A second play of veils adorned with plique jour enamel forms two translucent wings which rise delicately to indicate the time This little sketch stands out against a background of guilloch work covered with several layers of C R translucent enamel FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 59 models that are rechargeable with solar energy This major progress bears the name of Tissot in the world of Swiss Made but historically saw the alignment of the entire Japanese production In particular Casio with its G Shock models Citizen with the Eco Drive movement and Seiko made a pioneering achievement with its Spring Drive electromechanical movement In terms of technical and scienti c advances it is undeniable that enormous progress has been made in the last few years Not only has attention been focused on employing synthetic leather but available technologies have been applied to make use of the enormous quantity of recyclable materials Thus plastic bottles nylon shing nets and certain food industry waste have all been used in the production of watch straps in particular Taking an example for its Elegant collection Longines no longer uses leather of animal origin but vegetable fabrics instead And a good number of brands have followed this example notably Tudor and Hamilton Breitling and above all Panerai have in their turn taken the recycling road A direction that seems natural for the Italian brand given its origins connected with the sea and diving More speci cally in connection with this year s collections the concept of sustainability can be seen in the sponsoring of the Luna Rossa for the next America s Cup a yacht whose sails will be recycled by Panerai Also worth noting is the LAB ID watch practically 100 recycled not only the strap but above all the movement and the exterior That said for the fabrication of an entire watch case in line with sustainability criteria Swatch offers a good example And yet it had based its production on plastic when it started out in 1983 Indeed it was precisely the technology developed in this sector that enabled the brand to develop its Bioceramic for making cases using technology involving combining ceramic and castor oil This material was also used for the newly launched Omega MoonSwatch which has seen instant success With drums beating In 2002 Louis Vuitton unveiled the Tambour French for drum a bold watch that was going to open up the doors of haute horlogerie for the brand For its twenty years the Tambour is making a comeback with an anniversary edition in the colours of the original For a clean industry But to give credit where credit s due where ceramic is concerned a material that is sustainable and recyclable it s once again Rado who paved the way around forty years ago It then became a major watchmaking trend under the aegis of Chanel with its J12 a MICHEL NAVAS MASTER WATCHMAKER L A FABRIQUE DU TEMPS LOUIS VUIT TON I The case is round but that s not all It has a bulge on the middle while giving an impression of robustness being nicely sat on the wrist thanks to its case having a slightly larger diameter than the bezel With a silhouette that stood out from all the others in this way the Tambour made a sensational centre stage entry on the watchmaking scene in 2002 And in doing so propelled Louis Vuitton into spheres where the brand was hardly expected Impossible though not to recognize the trunk maker s mark in this rst creation The twelve letters of the brand s name appear like an emblem engraved on the caseband The brown dial inevitably evokes the legendary monogrammed canvas with its yellow top stitching the same colour as the hands over the dial And the applied horns sign a timepiece driven by a nely crafted movement based on Zenith s famous high frequency El Primero accurate to 1 10th of a second In a word all the ingredients were there to turn this rst attempt into a masterly triumph II teristic pro le of the case providing a view at the back of the calibre LV277 a customized Zenith El Primero with an oscillating weight in 18 ct pink gold And to mark the event the watch is presented in an exclusive box reminiscent of the famous Louis Vuitton travellers trunks just to emphasize the status of this collector s watch Between these two Tambour models the teams at Fabrique du Temps the Manufacture that has been part of Louis Vuitton Horlogerie since 2007 gave it its mark of distinction Louis Vuitton s recent arrival in the watchmaking world can certainly be viewed as an obstacle because we absolutely have to prove ourselves explains Michel Navas master watchmaker and co founder of La Fabrique du Temps in Geneva But seen from another angle you could also say that it opened up a unique opportunity for creativity inasmuch as there was everything to be done So we were able to achieve things that would have been unthinkable to do elsewhere As a result Louis Vuitton Horlogerie is an audacious watchmaking brand both in its designs and in its functions and displays tive and ingenious with as a climax the obtaining of the Geneva Seal in 2016 For us considered newcomers to watchmaking it was a form of Holy Grail as the stars of the Michelin guide can be for a good chef So we are very proud to have obtained this distinction which is one of the most demanding in watchmaking A certi cation that now forms part of our ADN A magnificently versatile watch It hardly need be said that the Tambour has clearly established itself as one of the most solid cornerstones of this watchmaking construction But there was nothing monolithic about a model that has seen variants both imagina Nothing could be more natural when we consider the Tambour s brief but fascinating past A watch that has managed to incorporate the most accomplished watchmaking complications such as the tourbillon and the minute repeater a timepiece honed for extreme environments with the Diving and Street Diver models a design that has managed perfectly to adapt its morphology with the Slim Evolution and Moon versions not without trying new forms with the Curve and new ideas with the Spin Time The latest examples to date the two models of the year namely the Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum and Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours The former incorporates lighting by 12 minuscule luminescent diodes into the Spin Time s now emblematic rotating cube hours display while the latter is quite simply the rst wristwatch with alternating jumping hours Two watches two new developments for a watch Manufacture that knows how to venture off the beaten track with panache Eric Dumatin LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR SPIN TIME AIR QUANTUM LOUIS VUIT TON S WATCHMAK LOUIS VUIT TON TAMBOUR T WENT Y LOUIS VUIT TON S TAMBOUR WATCH IS CEL TAMBOUR T WENT Y IN A LIMITED SERIES OF 200 PIECES THAT HONOURS THE ORIG ING ICON SINCE ITS CRE ATION IN 2009 THE SPIN TIME MOVEMENT REINTERPRETS EBR ATING ITS T WENT Y YE ARS IN 2022 RENOWNED FOR HAVING BEEN A TRUE INAL TAMBOUR CHRONOGR APH THE WATCH TAKES UP THE AESTHE TIC CODES THE JUMPING HOURS COMPLICATION CONVERTING THE TR ADITIONAL DISPL AY OF EMBLEM OF THE BR AND SINCE ITS L AUNCH WITH A CASE THAT E VOKES THE OF THE FIRST LV277 WITH ITS CASE IN POLISHED STAINLESS STEEL AND SUN T I D ES C O N C E I V ED TO R EN D ER T H E DA N C E TIME INTO A THREE DIMENSIONAL MOTION THE TAMBOUR SPIN TIME AIR QUANTUM FORM OF A DRUM BE ATING TO THE RHY THM OF TIME THIS TIMEPIECE HAS BEEN BRUSHED BROWN DIAL IN A MODERNIZED VERSION EQUIPPED WITH A HIGH FRE PLETED ITS COLLECTION OF AVIATION CHRONO BET WEEN THE SUN AND MOON INTELLIGIBLE AND ONCE AGAIN BRE AKS WITH TR ADITION MARKING THE HOURS WITH CUBES THAT PRODUCED IN SEVER AL VERSIONS ALWAYS GIVING AN IMPRESSION OF ROBUST QUENCY MOVEMENT BASED ON ZENITH S FAMOUS EL PRIMERO THE CALIBRE HAS THE HOURS RISES FIRST FOLLOWED BY THE OTHER SIDE OF THE TUTU WHICH POSITIONS GR APHS WITH THIS DECIDEDLY SPORTY LOOKING INTENSELY POE TIC THE GEOCENTRIC DISPL AY LIGHT UP ON DEMAND SEEMING TO COME FROM INSIDE THE CUBES THE MYSTE NESS AND RELIABILIT Y WITH ITS STURDY ARCHITECTURE AND APPLIED HORNS BEEN CUSTOMIZED FOR LOUIS VUIT TON FOR E X AMPLE WITH AN OSCILL ATING ITSELF ON THE MINUTES SCALE TO ALLOW THE TIME TO BE RE AD THEY REMAIN IN PL ACE TYPE XXI 3815 THE MODEL OPTED FOR A 42 MM CASE OF THE BL AST MOONSTRUCK IS E ASY TO GR ASP RIOUS HALO CELEBR ATES LOUIS VUIT TON S WATCHMAKING CRE ATIVIT Y FOR ITS T WO DECADES OF E XISTENCE LOUIS VUIT TON HAS PRODUCED THIS WEIGHT IN 18 CT PINK GOLD A FEW SECONDS BEFORE RETURNING SIMULTANEOUSLY TO THEIR POINT OF DEPARTURE IN TITANIUM WATER RESISTANT TO 100 METRES E VEN FOR A NOVICE III IIII VAN CLEEF ARPELS LADY ARPELS HEURES FLOR ALES AND LADY ARPELS BALLERINE I SLIM D HERM S SQUELETTE LUNE THIS TIME WITH A FINELY FLUTED CASE MIDDLE THE BIDIREC IIII HUBLOT SPIRIT OF BIG BANG CARBON GOLD ENCHANT E EVERY PETAL IN THE GARDEN OF THE HEURES FLOR ALES WATCH IS ARTIC PIECE PLAYS ON THE CONTRASTS BETWEEN CLASSI TIONALLY ROTATING BEZEL ALSO IN TITANIUM WITH TIGER THIS MODEL WHICH IS BASED ON THE UL ATED AND LINKED TO THE WATCH S MECHANISM REQUIRING METICULOUS ASSEM CISM AND CONTEMPORANEOUSNESS WITH ITS CASE A 60 MINUTE SCALE ON BLACK LACQUER EMPHA 42 M M BARREL SHAPED SPIR IT OF B IG BANG BLY WORK IN ADDITION TO THE TECHNICAL CHALLENGE POSED BY THE ASSOCIATION IN TITANIUM ADORNED WITH A BEZEL IN PLATINUM SIZES THE TIMEPIECE S LOOK OF INTREPIDITY IS A STR I K ING NE W VERSION OF THE FUSION OF SO MANY COMPONENTS COMES THAT OF MAKING POSSIBLE THE TRIPLY R ANDOM AND A CROWN IN GREY GOLD AND A SIMILAR SPEC III ULYSSE NARDIN BLAST MOONSTRUCK THE PRINCIPLE SO DE AR TO HUBLOT IT IS THE FIRST OPENING OF THE FLOWERS ON E ACH CHANGE OF HOUR THE OPEN FLOWERS CLOSE TACLE MORE NUANCED ON THE SKELETONIZED DIAL BL AST MOONSTRUCK REPRODUCES THE ROTA SPIRIT OF BIG BANG TO HAVE A CASE IN FROSTED TO MAKE WAY FOR A NEW COMBINATION THE NE XT DAY THE SEQUENCE OF THE BOU WITH ITS MATT AND SHINY FINISHES AT 6 O CLOCK TION OF THE MOON THE APPARENT MOVEMENT CARBON AND 18 K AR AT YELLOW GOLD A FUSION QUETS THAT ARRIVE WITH THE HOURS WILL BE DIFFERENT THERE IS A SIMIL AR POETIC A DOUBLE MOON APPEARS ALSO OPENWORKED OF THE SUN AROUND THE E ARTH AS SEEN FROM OF BL ACK AND GOLD MATERIALS THAT HUBLOT VISION IN THE BALLERINE ENCHANT E WATCH WITH ITS DOUBLE RETROGR ADE MOVE OVER WHICH GLIDE SLENDER BLUED HANDS THE GROUND AND A REPRESENTATION OF THE HAS ONLY USED ONCE IN ITS COLLECTION MENT THAT DISPL AYS THE TIME ON REQUEST WHEN THE WE ARER ACTIVATES THE PUSH II BREGUET TYPE XXI 3815 BREGUET HAS COM PIECE AT 8 O CLOCK THE BALLERINA S TUTU COMES INTO ACTION THE SIDE INDICATING So it is hardly surprising that this year Louis Vuitton Horlogerie decided to celebrate twenty years of a watch that very quickly joined the select circle of the rst icons of the 21st century A celebration called the Tambour Twenty in a limited edition of 200 watches that replicate the essential traits of the original chronograph model The same colours of dial and hands the same charac

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60 WATCH YOUR TIME Cosmopolitan tribute Carl F Bucherer may well have its head of ce in Lucerne a historical city in central Switzerland but its country is the world And so that there should be no doubt about this cosmopolitan spirit the brand is presenting the new Heritage Bicompax Annual Hometown Edition a chronograph conceived as a paper chase across 16 cities adopted by the brand An unshakable bond connects Carl F Bucherer with the city of Lucerne which saw its foundation in 1888 the brand explains However as a truly international brand the rm has also forged close links with some of the most famous places in the world With these new Heritage models the brand pays a tribute to Lucerne and 16 of the other cities where it feels at home So alongside eight Swiss cities we nd the main world capitals where it s good to be a Swiss watchmaker from Paris to Tokyo from London to Mumbai and from New York to Beijing Out of this planetary tour has come a chronograph watch slightly vintage in aspect with a dial in one of ve different gradient colours and black counters On the back there is a 3D effect engraving on the sapphire glass representing the architectural symbol of the city concerned Tokyo s horizon with Mount Fuji Beijing s Tiananmen Square the Chapel Bridge in Lucerne And to drive this chronograph with its central direct drive seconds minute circle and tachymetric scale we nd the calibre CFB 1972 in bi compax format with a 30 minute counter facing a small seconds display This movement also incorporates an annual calendar with a large date at 12 o clock and the month and year at 4 30 The model s design presented in its rst version in 2018 drew inspiration from the brand s historical watches dating from the 1950s With such an instrument on the wrist who wouldn t manage to stand out in the coaches of the legendary Orient Express This watchmaking world tour takes on new meaning E D FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 61 precursor in the production of watches in high tech ceramic which then became widespread With increasing awareness of ecological issues this innovative material found its public and spread rapidly being considered respectful of the environment entirely natural and easily recyclable If we now pass from the watches themselves to the places where they are produced we nd that practically all the major Manufactures have put in place protocols aimed at reducing emissions and recycling waste including oils and water A tangible reality of which little is made no doubt because it corresponds to regulations in force particularly in Swiss legislation In Switzerland it s a form of rigour and coherence inherited from the Calvinist culture that pervades the highly traditional watchmaking sector In the Manufactures the process of adapting to the planet s new demands extends to all sorts of details such as insulation of the workplaces automatic adjustment of blinds in response to warming or cooling If the brand strategies of the Swiss watchmaking industry s most renowned names seek to ensure effective protection of the environment they are also expressed via sponsorships and collaborations at the highest level Such is the case with Ulysse Nardin and its particular interest in shark survival Thus the brand supports the NGO Ocearch dedicated to the collection of scienti c data on sharks More generally there is a Rolex project that sums up all the initiatives launched on the environmental protection front Named Perpetual Planet it aims to reinforce joint projects with the National Geographic Society in collecting climate data and with Sylvia Earle s Mission Blue in protecting the oceans by setting up a comprehensive network of protected marine reserves At the same time the Rolex Awards for Enterprise recognize researchers and initiatives inclined to advance the well being of humanity inevitably by applying the principles of environmental protection and ecological sustainability 190 Years of innovation This year Longines is celebrating its 190th anniversary after almost two centuries of a formidable watchmaking saga interspersed with exploits and innovations MAT THIAS BRESCHAN CEO OF LONGINES I II III When Matthias Breschan took over the reins at Longines in July 2020 after having directed two sister brands in the Swatch Group Rado and Hamilton suf ce it to say the situation was hardly favourable for business with virtually all of Longines points of sale closed as a result of the pandemic But that was without counting on the formidable resilience of a brand considered one of the greatest success stories in Swiss watchmaking these last decades As it was Longines could have seen the best year in its history in 2021 after a record year in 2019 That s as may be but as Matthias Breschan puts it the year in progress should take up the baton with all sights set on an exceptional year for the brand IIII was indeed one of the development objectives that the brand s new CEO set himself consisting in sifting through the Longines lineage in order to launch new timepieces drawing inspiration from certain de ning characteristics of historical models and then adding exclusive brand movements among other things What struck me the most when I arrived was the brand s impressive history that is to say 190 years of innovation which by the way one can discover with a visit to the Longines museum explains Matthias Breschan At the beginning of the 20th century for example Longines was already ahead of its time in high frequency technologies essential for sports timekeeping Thus in 1914 the brand was capable of measuring a tenth of a second and two years later a hundredth With such a heritage the sources of inspiration are as numerous as they are varied when a decision is made to create new watches This Zulu Time The Longines Spirit Zulu Time presented last spring is an excellent example of this approach This new watch is in keeping with the watch brand s century of expertise in this type of timepiece we are informed It owes its origins and its name to the rst Longines double time zone wristwatch made in 1925 and featuring the Zulu ag on its dial Zulu referring to the letter Z used in the world of aviation and the armed forces to designate universal time However to do justice to Longines history it must be pointed out that in 1908 the brand s watchmakers had already developed a double time zone pocket watch destined for the Ottoman Empire This technology was patented three years later In line with this mechanical heritage Longines therefore equipped its Spirit Zulu Time with an exclusive new brand GMT movement with a silicon balance spring certi ed by the Of cial Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute or COSC for Contr le of ciel suisse des chronom tres With a power reserve of 72 hours this movement was designed for ease of manipulation with the correction of the hours hand being independent of the GMT indication We cannot forget that Longines pioneering spirit is perfectly complemented by a touch of elegance A question of attitude as the brand says so well The brand is therefore proposing some new additions to the Longines Elegant Collection featuring a distinct contrast between their sleek aesthetics and latest generation movements Developed exclusively for Longines the L891 5 calibre guaranteed for ve years is also tted with a balance spring in silicon a material that resists corrosion magnetic elds and temperature changes Another feature with these new Elegant timepieces Longines has taken its rst steps in the use of vegan leather A responsible alternative in which the exterior of the strand consists of an innovative new material made from residues of recycled apples the brand declares The interior is made of recycled maize rubber Innovative and sustainable this vegetable material has the same qualities as traditional leather in the way it feels its comfort when worn and its aesthetic aspect while having a similar service life Today innovation has also become a question of materials Out of indispensaChristophe Roulet ble concern for the environment CARL F BUCHERER HERITAGE BICOMPA X ANNUAL HOMETOWN EDITIONS SASCHA I JAEGER LECOULTRE MASTER GR ANDE TR ADI TEXTURED RUBBER STR AP THIS CONTEMPOR ARY IIII CHOPARD ALPINE EAGLE XL CHRONO FOR MOERI CEO OF CARL F BUCHERER EXPL AINS THAT THE HOMETOWN EDITION WATCHES TION CALIBRE 948 THIS WATCH COMBINES THE TIMEPIECE CONTINUES THE LONG HISTORY OF THE FIRST TIME THE SPORT Y CHIC ALPINE E AGLE E XPRESS AN EMOTIONAL MESSAGE CLOSE TO THE BR AND S HE ART THE ENTERPRIS UNIVERSAL TIME COMPLICATION WITH A FLYING CALENDAR WATCHES THAT THE MANUFACTURE COLLECTION IS RELE ASING ITS FLYBACK FUNC ING SPIRIT THAT CHAR ACTERISES THE BUCHERER FAMILY HAS ALWAYS INVOLVED INTER TOURBILLON A COMBINATION NEW TO WATCH HAS BEEN WRITING FOR GENER ATIONS AND ONCE TION CHRONOGR APH ON A CONTEMPOR ARY AND NATIONAL TR AVEL ESSENTIALLY ITS MEMBERS HAVE PAVED THE WAY FOR TODAY S MAKING IN ADDITION THE TOURBILLON MAKES A AGAIN ILLUSTR ATES THE NUMEROUS CRE ATIVE SPORT Y RUBBER STR AP CERTIFIED AS A CHRO BUSINESS TR AVELLERS THEY VENTURED OUT TO SEE THE WORLD AND FELT AT HOME FULL TOUR OF THE DIAL IN 24 HOURS THE DUR A POSSIBILITIES OF THE CODE 11 59 COLLECTION NOME TER ITS FLYBACK FUNCTION AUTOMATIC WHEREVER THEY WERE FINDING NEW OPPORTUNITIES AND FORGING CLOSE REL ATION TION OF AN AVER AGE SOL AR DAY THE DIAL FE A III BVLGARI ALUMINIUM CHRONOGRAPHE DUCATI MOVEMENT THE CHOPARD 03 05 C LED TO LONG INE S ELEGANT COLLECTION THE NE W ADDITIONS TO THE LONG INES LONGINES SPIRIT ZULU TIME THE LONGINES SPIRIT COLLECTION IS E XPANDING AERONAUTICAL SECTOR IN PARTICUL AR CONSTANTLY REINFORCED LONGINES SHIPS WITH THE INHABITANTS OF THE PL ACES THEY VISITED AS A RESULT WE ARE NOW TURES A MAP OF THE WORLD SEEN FROM THE SPECIAL EDITION BVLGARI JOINED FORCES WITH THE FILING OF THREE PATENTS THAT AT TEST TO ELEGANT COLLECTION PRESENT A DISTINCT CONTR AST BE T WEEN THEIR SLEEK WITH A MULTIPLE TIME ZONE WATCH A MODEL THAT IS INTRINSICALLY LINKED TO PIONEERING ROLE IN THIS FIELD SO IT WAS THAT MANY ADVENTURERS AMUSED REPRESENTED IN MOST OF THE COSMOPOLITAN CITIES OF THE WORLD AND IN KEEPING NORTHERN HEMISPHERE DUCATI TO CREATE A SPECIAL EDITION WATCH WITH ITS PRECISION AESTHE TICS AND THE L ATEST GENER ATION MOVEMENT THAT BRINGS THEM TO THE BR AND S PIONEERING SPIRIT THE NEW LONGINES SPIRIT ZULU TIME COR THEMSELVES WITH THE TIME ZONES LONGINES WATCHES ON THEIR WRISTS WITH THE SPIRIT OF THE BUCHERER FAMILY WE FEEL AT E ASE IN E VERY ONE OF THEM II AUDEMARS PIGUET CODE 11 59 PERPETUAL AN EXCLUSIVE RED DIAL AND UNIQUE HOUR MARK LIFE LONGINES HAS TOTALLY REDESIGNED THIS COLLECTION WHICH PAYS RESPONDS TO THE WATCHMAKING BR AND S E XPERTISE IN THIS T YPE OF TIME THEY TR AVELLED THE GLOBE WITH DETERMINATION AND PASSION TURNING THE CALENDAR AUDEMARS PIGUE T IS L AUNCHING A ERS TWO REFERENCES TO THE AESTHETIC TR AITS TR IBUTE TO THE BR AND S CHAR ACTER ISTIC TR AIT ELEGANCE THE ROMAN PIECE WHICH DATES BACK A HUNDRED YE ARS IT OWES ITS ORIGINS AND ITS IMPOSSIBLE INTO RE ALIT Y THE BR AND ACCOMPANIED RENOWNED AVIATORS NEW VARIATION OF ITS MODEL CODE 11 59 PER OF THE ITALIAN MOTORBIKE BR AND THIS WATCH NUMER ALS AND ALL THE ELEMENTS THAT MAKE UP THE DIAL HAVE BEEN ENTIRELY NAME TO THE FIRST LONGINES DOUBLE TIME ZONE WRIST WATCH MADE IN 1925 SUCH AS AMY JOHNSON AND CLYDE PANGBORN AND HUGH HERNDON IN THEIR PE TUAL CALENDAR COMBINING A CASE IN 18 CT HAS AN ALUMINIUM CASE TOGETHER WITH AN REDR AWN TO OFFER A PURE AND CONTEMPOR ARY DESIGN E VEN THE MOVE AND FE ATURING THE ZULU FL AG ON ITS DIAL ZULU REFERRING TO THE LE T TER CONQUEST OF THE AIR AND THE SE T TING OF NEW RECORDS A GUAR ANTEE OF GREY GOLD A DIAL IN BLUE AVENTURINE AND A EMBLEMATIC BEZEL AND A BLACK RUBBER STR AP MENT THAT DRIVES THESE NEW MODELS HAS BEEN PUT TO CONTRIBUTION IN Z USED IN THE WORLD OF AVIATION AND THE ARMED FORCES TO DESIGNATE UNI SAFE T Y AND RELIABILIT Y FOR THESE E ARLY PIONEERS THIS QUEST FOR MINIMALIST ST YLING VERSAL TIME THE DE VELOPMENT OF OTHER GMT MODELS INTENDED FOR THE

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62 WATCH YOUR TIME On the wings of time It can never be said enough the appeal of a women s watch is not measured by the number of carats loaded onto it to draw the eye A ladies watch also needs to be convincing in its watchmaking aspect That is exactly the case with the Blancpain Air Command AC03 Here is a chronograph that ts perfectly on feminine wrists to the envy of all those who wish to wear a timepiece of character And what s more with a history to it and evoking a whiff of the tarmac At the beginning of the 1950s the French Ministry of Defence was looking for a high precision chronograph capable of meeting demanding speci cations Blancpain recounts including in particular a black dial decorated with luminescent hour markers and hands and a chronograph movement with a yback function and small seconds Blancpain responded to this speci cation with a chronograph that caught the eye of the US military As the brand had already conquered the American navy with its Fifty Fathoms diver s watch it drew inspiration from this model to design a chronograph for the country s air force In the end this timepiece was proposed to the American pilots in the form of a dozen prototypes and was never commercialized Hence its extreme scarcity And it is precisely this model that has been seeing a second life since 2019 the year when Blancpain presented a 500 watch limited re edition of its legendary Air Command in an identical replication but equipped with a latest generation movement in the form of the high frequency 5Hz F388B yback chronograph calibre Given the success of this re edition Blancpain brought the Air Command into its current collections the following year before then turning its attention to the feminine wrist The AC03 version is the fruit of these re ections presented in a grade 23 titanium or red gold case of diameter 36 2 mm For the occasion the watch was equipped with an F188B movement incorporating a yback chronograph which loses a little tempo with a frequency of 3 Hz but remains reliable under all conditions It s a question of providing the most intrepid adventurers with a timepiece of great quality With a retro look as a bonus C R FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 63 Clients demands With annual world sales of around 330 billion dollars the watchmaking jewellery segment has become an integral part of the luxury world as an industry with a solid cultural background at the crossroads of creativity and advanced technical know how So concludes the State of Fashion Watches and Jewellery report of consultants McKinsey However today these two industries nd themselves at a turning point according to the report as a result of new buying behaviour What is most surprising is that people buying watches a few years ago looked rst of all for a design that was to their taste before considering other characteristics like the calibres and their complications notes McKinsey The name of the brand only came into the picture afterwards Today everything has changed Consumers start by seeking a brand with which they can identify one that they appreciate and are ready to wear proudly in public as a part of their personality This is also one of the reasons why an aspect such as sustainability is so important A particular watch may be sustainable but it is dif cult to convey this information For a brand on the other hand it is much easier to publicize what they are doing about sustainability issues Conversely those that do nothing will also be more easily identi able In a context where the pandemic has thoroughly reshuf ed the cards particularly in terms of distribution and where the second hand watch market is becoming a new force McKinsey points to a few solutions for the future The rst is to target and appeal to women with products that must really speak to them The second concerns Chinese customers a category that needs pampering considering that in the future most of their purchases will take place within their borders There is a need to think again about what makes an icon the consultants conclude The brands absolutely need some iconic products in their range which everyone can identify with the brand and which have such appeal that no one will think they can do without them Not so long ago the icons of the watchmaking industry were still de ned by their design their scarcity their movement These ingredients have not disappeared but there are now other factors that come into play in rendering a watch emblematic Factors that have more to do with the experience the product and its history also including sustainability as an essential aspect Space Odyssey I II III IIII BL ANCPAIN AIR COMMAND AC03 IN RED GOLD L ADIES WATCHES ARE GIVEN PROMI I OM EG A SE AMASTER DIVER 30 0 THE SE A MENT CALIBRE HEUER 02 MAKES ITS ENTRY INTO IIII ALPINA SEASTRONG DIVER 300 HERITAGE NENCE AT BL ANCPAIN SINCE THE BEGINNING OF THE 1930S THE MANUFACTURE HAS MASTER DIVER 300M PRESENTED FOR THE FIRST THE AUTAVIA COLLECTION BY EQUIPPING THIS TH E 2022 ED I T I ON OF TH E S E ASTRONG I S A SEEN CONSTANT DE VELOPMENT AND INNOVATION AIMED AT APPE ALING TO WOMEN TIME IN 1993 IS BACK AND MORE DARING THAN CHRONOME TER WITH ITS BL ACK DIAL AND DLC R SU M O F TH E A LP I N A S C H A R ACTER I ST I C MOREOVER WHEN IT COMES TO FEMININE CHRONOGR APHS BL ANCPAIN IS NOT A TEN E VER WITH A DIAL DECOR ATED WITH A WAVE STEEL CASE THAT E VOKE MILITARY REFERENCES TR AITS A SPORT Y SPIRIT MODERN TECHNOL TATIVE NOVICE IN 1998 THE BR AND WAS THE FIRST TO PRESENT A FLYBACK CHRON MOTIF REPRODUCED IN A STUNNING SHADE OF FROM THE PAST OGY AND A VINTAGE TOUCH ASSOCIATED WITH OGR APH FOR WOM EN WITH THE AI R COM M AND B L ANCPAI N PROP OSES A NE W GREEN THIS 42 MM WATCH IN STAINLESS STEEL III PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE S BRABUS BLACK OPS ITS HERITAGE INSPIRED HERE BY ITS FIRST SUPER INTERPRE TATION MORE SPORT Y AND ADVENTUROUS THE VERY R ARE BL ANCPAIN IS FIT TED WITH A UNIDIRECTIONALLY ROTATING EDITION THE FIRST RESULT OF THE COLL ABOR A COMPRESSOR MODEL FURTHERMORE THIS NEW CHRONOGR APH FROM THE 1950S WHICH INSPIRED THE AIR COMMAND COLLECTION BE ZEL IN P OLISHED GREEN CER AM IC WITH A TION BET WEEN PANER AI AND THE GERMAN AUTO TIMEPIECE FE ATURES A FIRST FOR THE BR AND CAN BE GLIMPSED IN THE VINTAGE LOOK OF THIS NEW MODEL THE ARR ANGEMENT OF DIVING SCALE IN WHITE GR AND FEU ENAMEL MOTIVE TUNING COMPANY BR ABUS NATUR ALLY A GREEN DIAL PAIRED WITH AN ORIGINAL STR AP THE COUNTERS AND THE TACHYMETRIC SCALE ON THE DIAL THE FORM OF THE LUMINES II TAG HEUER AUTAVIA CHRONOMETER FLYBACK LOOKED TO THE SE A WITH THIS NEW SUBMERSI IN GREEN RUBBER CENT HANDS AND HOUR MARKERS THE PISTON T YPE CHRONOGR APH PUSH PIECES TAG HEUER IS PAYING TRIBUTE TO THE AUTAVIA BLE A DIVING INSTRUMENT THAT POINTS TO THE AND THE GL ASS BOX SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL ALL E VOKE THE ORIGINAL CHRONOGR APH COLLECTION BORN IN 1962 WITH THREE NEW TECHNOLOGICAL ROOTS OF THE T WO BR ANDS MODELS INCLUDING THIS CHRONOME TER THE IT IS THE FIRST PANER AI WATCH WITH A SKELE COSC CERTIFIED MANUFACTURE FLYBACK MOVE TONIZED AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT THE P 4001 S Jaeger LeCoultre has chosen astronomy for its theme of the year entitled The Stellar Odyssey This homage to celestial phenomena is featured across all the collections as well as in an itinerant exhibition as immersive as it is fascinating The mysteries of the cosmos translated into micromechanical marvels that tell the time Such is Jaeger LeCoultre s programme for 2022 which thus sets out to capture the universe in miniature A vast programme that couldn t be undertaken by just any Manufacture While the measurement of time is indeed directly derived from the observation of the stars and the cosmos it enters quite another dimension when it comes to providing a precise representation of its subtleties The counting of the hours is complemented by calendar and astronomical complications such as perpetual or even secular calendars equations of time mobile constellation maps sidereal time or predictions of eclipses to cite just a few It need hardly be said that to venture into such realizations you need to have uncommon watchmaking skills And that is just the case for Jaeger LeCoultre one of the most experienced watchmaking Manufactures where complications are concerned having produced 1 300 different calibres protected by 430 patents since the brand s creation in 1833 It is a eld of real expertise at Jaeger LeCoultre explains Lionel Favre product designs director with the brand In the same way as our Gyrotourbillon and minute repeaters In other words while Jaeger LeCoultre s Reverso originally designed as a simple but reversible watch has been part of the collective unconscious for more than 90 years we have always nurtured an innovative spirit in the Manufacture enabling us to produce grand compli cation watches of which we are particularly proud Last year the two put together gave rise to the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 the world s rst watch with four faces incorporating eleven complications including some entirely novel astronomical functions We couldn t have dreamed of a better introduction to this year s Stellar Odyssey which after its presentation at the Watches and Wonders trade fair in Geneva should continue its journey around the world The occasion not just to discover our watchmaking creations inspired by celestial events but also to admire the way this fascinating theme can be translated into the form of artistic installations and immersive experiences points out Catherine R nier CEO at Jaeger LeCoultre to be amazed by the latest model namely the Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590 capable of reproducing the positions and relative movements of the earth moon and sun in three dimensions and real time The second halt is then made in the land of the cantors and troubadours the very ones who know how to evoke the muses with their heads in the stars or in this case in the shooting stars that make their appearance at random four to six times per hour on the dial of the Rendez Vous Dazzling Star thanks to the new automatic calibre 734 The link between man and the universe In a word the brand s Stellar Odyssey is also to be interpreted as an initiatory journey to the heart of a watchmaking Manufacture capable of producing the most complicated and the most poetic creations the most precious and the most ornate models The rst leg stops at a spot that JaegerLeCoultre alone has explored that of the quasi perpetual motion with its famous Atmos clocks which function on the basis of temperature changes Incidentally it is no accident that the Atmos clocks were for a long time the preferred gift from the Swiss Confederation to its guests of honour At all events these guests wouldn t have failed The journey continues towards more complex horizons with two new interpretations of the impressive Calibre 945 minute repeater which reproduces the positions of the constellations in real time while the Cosmotourbillon completes a circuit of the dial in a sidereal day shorter than the civil day by about four minutes Finally we take note of the new Polaris equipped with a perpetual calendar and the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 an innovative and artistic interpretation of Universal Time There is no need to say that such mechanical mastery does not date from yesterday From the beginnings of the Manufacture astronomical functions have played a major role in Jaeger LeCoultre s portfolio of complicated timepieces declares Lionel Favre And today they still manage to stimulate a real fascination for making the link between man and the universe Eric Dumatin JAEGER LECOULTRE POLARIS PERPETUAL CALENDAR THE POL ARIS COLLECTION JA EG E R LECO U LTR E ATMOS HYBR IS MECHANICA CALIBR E 5 9 0 JA EG ER M TIERS R ARES R ARE CR AF TS WORKSHOP HAVE ALWAYS BEEN GRE ATLY IS EXPANDING TO TAKE IN A PERPETUAL CALENDAR AN ESTEEMED COMPLICATION LECOULTRE S ENGINEERS AND WATCHMAKERS HAVE DE VELOPED A NEW COM INSPIRED BY BOTH THE COMPLE XIT Y AND THE ARCHITECTUR AL BE AUT Y OF THE IN WATCHMAKING L ACQUERED WITH A DEEP GR ADIENT BLUE THAT AMPLIFIES PLICATION CAPABLE OF REPRODUCING THE TRUE CYCLES OF THE E ARTH SUN ATMOS CLOCK S MOVEMENT ON THIS PIECE THIS IS SEEN IN THE DECOR ATIVE THE WATCH S SPORT Y AND ELEGANT ST YLE THE DIAL OF THE NEW POL ARIS PER AND MOON MORE PRECISELY THAN EVER SPECIALLY DEVELOPED FOR THE ATMOS WORK THAT USES MINIATURE PAINTING L ASER ENGR AVING ME TEORITE INL AY PETUAL CALENDAR HAS DR AWN ITS INSPIR ATION FROM THE AESTHETICS OF THE HYBR IS MECHANICA CALIBRE 590 THIS E XCEP TIONAL MECHANISM ADDS A AND L ACQUERING TO MAKE THIS CLOCK A WORK OF ART AS WELL AS A TIME POL ARIS MARINER MEMOVOX IN ADDITION TO THE PERPETUAL CALENDAR INDI BR AND NEW DIMENSION TO THE ATMOS IT ACTUALLY DISPL AYS THE POSITIONS KEEPING INSTRUMENT CATIONS AND THE ROTATING INTERIOR BE ZEL JAEGER LECOULTRE S NEW MAN AND REL ATIVE MOVEMENTS OF THE EARTH SUN AND MOON IN THREE DIMENSIONS UFACTURE MOVEMENT THE CALIBRE 868A A OFFERS A DISPL AY OF THE MOON S AND IN RE AL TIME NICKNAMED TELLURIUM IT S THE MOST COMPLE X ATMOS PHASES IN BOTH HEMISPHERES TOGETHER WITH A POWER RESERVE OF 70 HOURS CLOCK E VER CRE ATED THE CR AF TSMEN OF JAEGER LECOULTRE S ATELIER DES

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64 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 65 Quiet strength In the accessible luxury watch segment Fr d rique Constant is inescapable And just to show that better is not the enemy of good its collections are brimming with innovations produced within an integrated Manufacture NIELS EGGERDING CEO OF FR D RIQUE CONSTANT Chanel J12 Diamond Tourbillon Few watches get ticks in all these boxes This one does without hesitation In the list innovation design ergonomy readability functionality reliability and above all accessibility not without a hint of provocation In a word with its Slimline Monolithic Manufacture Fr d rique Constant has done well very well And the a cionados weren t wrong Limited to less than 2 000 pieces the watch was out of stock in less time than it took to say so But what exactly are we talking about Quite simply about a model that is revolutionizing the very concept of the escapement Other brands had tried hard to nd an alternative to the famous Swiss lever escapement which occupies an impregnable position in the world of the mechanical watch But no one had managed to produce a system that was truly innovative and suf ciently reliable to be launched on a production scale other than a micro series But Fr d rique Constant has In the heart of this Slimline Monolithic Manufacture we discover a silicon oscillator that vibrates at 40 Hertz 288 000 vibrations hour which is a frequency ten times that of the great majority of mechanical watches Without going into technical details this exible monobloc oscillator in monocrystalline silicon which replaces the 26 components of a standard assembly resolves the problems of lubrication isochronism and magnetism at the same time manifesting an almost total insensibility to gravity and shocks for a greater power reserve given its Strength of conviction It s true that we still have some way to go to gain notoriety explains Niels Eggerding who has directed the brand since 2018 And the launch of products like the Slimline Monolithic Manufacture certainly makes a great contribution That s why we also have complication watches in our collections but always in an affordable price range The aim is not to change the brand positioning but rather to show that Fr d rique Constant is a brand where innovation has an important role at the service of watches that are not restricted to an elite band of collectors Fr d rique Constant was thus one of the rst Manufactures to adopt silicon technology about fteen years ago It is also one of the few Swiss brands to propose connected watches and persist on this path where oxygen is scarce in the shadow There s no doubt this quiet strength that pervades Fr d rique Constant is a winning formula Particularly since the collections have done well in following market trends particularly where the recent Highlife range is concerned These stainless steel models with interchangeable integrated bracelets Niels Eggerding s baby have found their place in the sporty chic segment that appears to be sweeping the watch market today The year 2022 should be one of an exceptional vintage The only worry the slow down observed in the supply chain with lead times that are getting longer It is clearly this year s challenge comments Niels Eggerding That is why I prefer to remain prudent when making forecasts One thing is certain however whatever the market conditions Fr d rique Constant knows how to be convincing with the modesty of the great players Christophe Roulet FR D RIQUE CONSTANT SLIMLINE MONOLITHIC MANUFACTURE FR D RIQUE LUTIONARY HIGH FREQUENCY OSCILL ATOR INTO A TR ADITIONALLY CONFIGURED FR D RIQUE CONSTANT HIGHLIFE PERPETUAL CALENDAR MANUFACTURE BORN IN CONSTANT HAS UNVEILED A MAJOR TECHNOLOGICAL ADVANCE IN THE FIELD OF PRE MOVEMENT GIVEN THE INNOVATIVE DESIGN OF THE ESCAPEMENT TR ADITIONAL 1999 THE HIGHLIFE COLLECTION MADE ITS MARK ON THE HISTORY OF FR D RIQUE CISION CHRONOMETRY REDEFINING THE PRINCIPLE OF REGUL ATION OF MECHANI APPAR ATUS USED TO ME ASURE ITS PROPER RUNNING PROVED TO BE UNSUITA CONSTANT IT EMBODIES THE VALUES THAT HAVE CONTRIBUTED TO THE BR AND S CAL WATCHES THE SLIMLINE MONOLITHIC MANUFACTURE PROPOSES A FREQUENCY BLE TO CHECK THE AVER AGE RUNNING IN SECONDS PER DAY L ASER CAMER AS SUCCESS A VERY HOROLOGICAL DESIGN HIGH QUALIT Y FINISHES AND PARTICU TEN TIMES THAT OF MOST MECHANICAL MOVEMENTS ITS MONOBLOC OSCILL A TAKING 250 000 PICTURES PER SECOND WERE THEREFORE USED PRESENTED IN A L AR EMPHASIS ON A FAIR PRICE THAT ALLOWS AS MANY PEOPLE AS POSSIBLE TO TOR IN SILICON REPL ACES AN ASSEMBLY OF MANY COMPONENTS AND PROVIDES 40 MM DIAMETER CASE AND WITH A DIAL THAT PROVIDES A VIEW OF THE OSCILL A HAVE ACCESS TO SWISS MADE LUXURY THE FL AGSHIP OF THIS COLLECTION A SOLUTION FOR SOME OF THE MAIN WE AKNESSES OF MECHANICAL WATCHES TOR THIS TECHNICAL REVOLUTION IS AVAIL ABLE AT A PRICE THAT RESPECTS THE THE HIGHLIFE PERPETUAL CALENDAR MANUFACTURE FE ATURES ITS FIRST DIAL IN ITS UNIQUE DESIGN AND SMALL SIZE ENABLE THE INTEGR ATION OF THIS REVO BR AND S COMMITMENT TO OFFER LUXURY PRODUCTS AT AN AFFORDABLE PRICE DEEP BLUE GREY A COLOUR THAT IS MUCH IN VOGUE IN TODAY S WATCH SCENE low energy consumption We may well not be in the conventional norms of the trade even though this escapement ts perfectly into a standard calibre but we re no less close to the Holy Grail of watchmaking with such a high frequency Fr d rique Constant is exactly that a watchmaking brand that is capable of truly remarkable feats and yet strives for accessible luxury Perhaps this is why the undeniable strengths of an integrated Manufacture that has already designed and produced around thirty brand calibres in nearly thirty ve years of existence remain relatively little known of the electronics giants There is no question however of abandoning the game As Niels Eggerding explains the brand s smart watches are prized for their very watchmaking aspect stamped Swiss Made Consequently developments continue on these types of watch Fr d rique Constant is also active in the eld of NFTs cryptographic tokens registered on blockchains which the brand now proposes along with a speci c watch and also as independent products Here too we are looking at pioneers in action Chanel is a name a woman a creator a story a vision a style a brand a signature a typography a logotype a graphic design a code a symbol a legend In a few words Arnaud Chastaingt Director of Chanel s watchmaking creation studio set the scene for the brand a scene that admittedly changes from one year to the next but one whose main characteristics now form part of the watchmaking landscape Beginning with those of the J12 this watch described with pride as the rst icon of the 22nd century saw an extremely auspicious start in 2000 In two decades the J12 designed by Jacques Helleu and completely revisited by Arnaud Chastaingt for its 20th anniversary with subtle touches was indeed destined for great things crowned with an increasingly serious forays into the mechanical world So it was that at the last Watches and Wonders trade fair Chanel presented the J12 Diamond Tourbillon a watch equipped with the Calibre 5 the brand s very rst tourbillon movement And as the original J12 was in black ceramic this new watch s exterior was resolutely black with gem setting on the bezel hands and crown The diamond was Gabrielle Chanel s favourite stone recalls Arnaud Chastaingt As far as I m concerned the J12 is my muse and for my part I wanted to offer it an exceptional diamond in fact a magni cent solitaire diamond But nothing static this diamond turns in perpetual motion creating an almost hypnotic effect As Arnaud Chastaingt explains his determination to place a diamond of this size on a tourbillon cage was a real challenge for the Manufacture Evidently one that it didn t fail to meet in the process establishing a new 65 facet cut for this gem of sheer brilliance

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66 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS WORLD PREMI RE Freak Co Ulysse Nardin opened up a new path for watchmaking with the Freak its first model appearing in 2001 A concentration of innovation this watch propelled time measurement into the third millennium is the central bridge and one of the wheels that indicate the minutes and hours respectively The new UN 230 calibre also inherits the light weight and extra wide silicon balance wheel tted with nickel inertia blocks and stabilizing micro blades which were a major innovation of a preceding Freak It s precisely this X version of the Freak that we come across again this year with a dial in aventurine which adds a touch of elegance to the model like a fragment of the celestial vault Nowadays watchmaking UFOs those watches that destructure the measurement of time amaze only those people who don t appreciate that the time is not just a basic piece of information given by any mobile telephone In other words these models that have given depth to the dial transformed going trains into works of kinetic art and turned the codes of time mechanics upside down have become as respected as watches conceived in the grand tradition And for very good reason they have given watchmaking a new dimension where innovation and unbridled creativity play primordial roles But what we take for granted today was far from simple scarcely twenty years ago So it took watchmakers with plenty of mettle to attempt the impossible Ulysse Nardin was clearly one of them With its Freak presented in 2001 the brand opened up new horizons for contemporary watchmaking to propel it into the third millennium time with the movement namely one at rotation per hour and a generous size of 45 mm in diameter to present this watchmaking revelation in a case that it merits And as if revolutionizing the movement s arrangement wasn t enough the innovation extended to the movement itself Looking rst at materials the Freak was the rst watch to incorporate silicon into its escapement followed by synthetic diamond then silicon coated with DiamonSil synthetic diamond Then turning to the architecture we have the revolutionary Dual Ulysse escapement with its two toothed driving wheels acting directly on the axis of the balance wheel and then the Freak neXt ying oscillator based on the principle of exible mechanisms using the elasticity of a blade of silicon There s no need to expand the list For twenty years the Freak has been a real watchmaking research and development laboratory producing some little marvels In short we could say that there was the classical watch with main plate gear train and bridges and then came the Freak to call everything into question No more crown replaced by the notched bezel for setting and the case back for winding no more dial which left room for a multilevel calibre no more hands their place being taken by the entire movement on an arm that rotates to indicate the minutes together with a rotating disc for the hours a regulating device that is half way between a carousel and a tourbillon with a balance wheel housed in a structure rotating in Endless exploration Its heritage It s undoubtedly towards Freak X in particular that we should turn The little cousin of the rst Freak models this watch appeared as the collection s entry level thus more affordable model The crown is back for correcting the time but the movement is still equipped with a carousel rotating on its axis once per hour to indicate the passing time Gaining in simplicity and boldness the movement possesses fewer wheels Ulysse Nardin explains Dial and hands also disappear Thus it ULYSSE NARDIN FREAK NE X T THE FRE AK NE X T PRESENTED IN 2019 PL AYS ULYSSE NARDIN FREAK S AT FIRST VIE W THIS NE W FRE AK S RESEMBLES A ULYSSE NARDIN FREAK X AVENTURINE THE FRE AK X AVENTURINE IS EQUIPPED WITH THE LIMITS OF PHYSICS OF MATERIALS WITH ITS FLYING OSCILL ATOR OF TWIN REACTOR SPACE VESSEL IN REALITY THE BR AND S DEVELOPERS HAVE CON WITH A REGUL ATING ORGAN BAL ANCE PALLE T FORK ESCAPE WHEEL IN TOTALLY INNOVATIVE DESIGN BASED ON THE PRINCIPLE OF FLE XIBLE MECHA CEIVED THE FIRST DOUBLE OSCILL ATOR WITH A DIFFERENTIAL AND AUTOMATIC SILICON WITH ITS SLEEK DESIGN THIS 43 MM DIAME TER WATCH LIVES UP TO NISMS USING THE EL ASTICIT Y OF BL ADES OF SILICON THIS OSCILL ATING REG WINDING THANKS TO THE GRINDER SYSTEM T WICE AS EFFICIENT AS A TR ADI THE FRE AK PEDIGREE EQUIPPED WITH A ROTATING CAROUSEL MOVEMENT THAT UL ATION DE VICE DOES AWAY WITH THE CENTR AL PIVOT ITS CENTRE BEING TIONAL WINDING MECHANISM THE PRINCIPLE OF THE FRE AK R ANGE REMAINS SERVES AS A MINUTES HAND ABOVE THE PL ATE OF AVENTURINE THAT DECO LITER ALLY SUSPENDED IN THE SPACE THE BASIC IDE A OF THIS REGUL ATING INTACT WITH THIS WATCH THAT HAS NO HANDS DIAL OR CROWN ITS MECHA R ATES THE MOVEMENT E ASILY VISIBLE INSIDE A LIGHT WEIGHT AND E X TR A ORGAN IS THE TOTAL ELIMINATION OF THE BAL ANCE WHEEL S A XIS TO CRE ATE A NISM BEING NOTHING OTHER THAN A CAROUSEL PIVOTING ON THE WATCH S WIDE BAL ANCE IN SILICON WITH NICKEL INERTIA BLOCKS OSCILL ATES AT 3 HZ VIRTUAL PIVOT POINT AND THAT S A R ADICAL DE VELOPMENT COMPARED WITH CENTR AL A XIS THE WATCH HAS AN AUTONOMY OF 72 HOURS ITS CASE IN BLUE PVD TITANIUM AND 5N PINK GOLD HAS A DISTINCTIVE LOOK THE TR ADITIONAL SPRUNG BAL ANCE But if the Freak X plays the simplicity card the Freak S also presented this year proves every bit as disruptive as its worthy predecessors This time it s a twin reactor spaceship that takes up position in the watch s interior The brand s developers have conceived the rst inclined double oscillator with vertical differential and automatic winding In doing so they have made use of DiamonSil technology for the oscillators and the highly ef cient Grinder winding system another of the Freak s innovations The Freak is a watch with a revolutionary spirit that is regularly stimulated by new technical challenges sums up Patrick Pruniaux CEO of Ulysse Nardin Like the hero of Homer s Odyssey who visited many unknown lands we at Ulysse Nardin continue to explore every possible avenue offered by science to keep improving the precision and functionality of our time measuring instruments Christophe Roulet WITH SOF TLY ROUNDED CURVES S L I M L I N E M O N O L I T H I C M A N U FAC T U R E 4 0 H Z 2 8 8 0 0 0 B E AT S H O U R 8 0 H R P O W E R R E S E R V E 100 ANTI MAGNE TIC frederiqueconstant com

Watch Your Time Europe en 2022

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