WATCH YOUR TIME EUROPE UK 2021 : simplebooklet.com

EDITIONS TEMPS INTERNATIONAL LTD 2503 BANK OF AMERICA TOWER 12 HARCOURT ROAD CENTRAL HONG KONG EDITIONS TEMPS INTERNATIONAL COM EUROPE AN EDITION 2021 PUBLISHED PRODUCED FOR THE DAILY TELEGR APH ON THURSDAY SIMULTANEOUSLY WITH LE MONDE FR ANCE SEP TEMBER 23 2021 BY EDITIONS TEMPS INTERNATIONAL FR ANKFURTER ALLGEMEINE GERMANY WHO TAKE SOLE RESPONSIBILIT Y FOR THE CONTENTS IL SOLE 24 ORE ITALY EL MUNDO SPAIN 13 focus audemars piguet Action 17 editorial The crafts of Venice 19 focus cartier Classic attitude 22 focus jaeger lecoultre Turning 90 in style 24 focus bvlgari BVLGARI ALUMINIUM THE BVLGARI ALUMINIUM 2020 REKINDLES THE Roman flavour FLAME OF THE FIRST GENER ATION MODELS INTRODUCED IN 1998 IT SPEAKS A UNIVERSAL L ANGUAGE THAT GOES BEYOND GENDER AGE TRENDS ER AS OR SOCIAL PROFILES MORE THAN TWENTY YEARS HAVE PASSED AND THE COLLECTION IS AS FRESH AS E VER TWENTY Y EARS 26 SPORT AGO THE BVLGARI A LUMINIUM WAS PART OF THE MOST IMPORTANT MOMENTS OF AN ENTIRE GENER ATION NOW A NEW GENER ATION AWAITS Built for adventure CHRISTOPHE ROULET 31 focus panerai Sustainable luxury 32 focus montblanc Writing time 34 focus breguet A stroke of genius 3 6 focus rolex Let there be light 38 JEWELLERY Jewelled journeys MARIE DE PIMODAN BUGNON 41 focus chanel Magical N 5 42 CLASSIC Staying power PAOLO DE VECCHI 45 focus herm s Unmistakably Herm s 47 focus seiko Nature s wonders 48 LADIES Shxpir Huang Shxpir pronounced Shakespeare is a Chinese photographer and director Dazed Confused Magazine has called him one of the mouthiest photographers in China and this statement resonates well with his work which is bold sexually dynamic fantastical and wild His fine art studies and background in modern dance training have helped his image creation often with a strong colour impact and capturing dramatic moments for his fashion stories The collision of these disciplines impacts his art with a playfully vibrant yet intensely stylized vision Taken from unique and often provocative angles his universe transports the spectator into the sublime dream like worlds that are uniquely his own Shxpir has worked with clients such as Moschino Michael Kors Dior Harper s Bazaar China Vogue China Ford China Material Girl Nike and Philips de Pury Shxpir is currently based in New York City CONCEPT AND CREATIVE DIRECTION SHXPIR HUANG WWW ADBAGENCY COM 3D DIRECTOR ELIJAH DIAZ 3D ARTIST OTAVIO SILVEIRA 3D ARTIST GRACE CASAS 51 focus tag heuer CONSULTANT ERIC DUMATIN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR CHRISTOPHE ROULET CONTRIBUTORS VINCENT DAVEAU FR ANCE MARIE DE PIMAUDAN SWITZERL AND PALOMA RECIO SPAIN PAOLO DE VECCHI ITALY TRANSLATORS AMA A TR ADUCTIONS GERMAN RITA IANNICIELLO PAOLO DE VECCHI ITALIAN SANDR A PETCH ENGLISH GIAN POZZY FRENCH PALOMA RECIO SPANISH PHOTOGRAPHER SHXPIR HUANG ARTISTIC DIRECTOR VINCENT FESSELET GENEVA PHOTOENGRAVERS BOMBIE GENEVA PRINTED IN THE U E REPRODUCTION EVEN PARTIAL OF MATERIAL PUBLISHED IN WATCH YOUR TIME IS STRICTLY PROHIBITED ALL RIGHTS RESERVED IN THE U K AND OTHER COUNTRIES For any challenge 53 focus longines Making history 54 COMPLICATIONS Complicated time VINCENT DAVEAU 57 focus ulysse nardin PUBLISHER FOUNDER CHRISTIAN LL AVALL UBACH MANAGING DIRECTOR ISABELLE BOUDRINGHIN EDITIONS TEMPS INTERNATIONAL COM WATCH Decorative arts PALOMA RECIO Shipshape and seaworthy 61 focus hublot The art of time 62 focus tissot Swiss connexion

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FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 13 Action Half a century after its launch the Royal Oak saga continues at Audemars Piguet with new iterations of the more muscular Royal Oak Offshore Time to get in on the action When Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak it also introduced the first ever luxury sports watch A visit to the Mus e Atelier which the brand opened last year a glass spiral that connects to the Maison des Fondateurs the original building and family home in Le Brassus leaves no doubt as to the importance of this now iconic watch within the brand s historic and contemporary production Inside the museum a succession of backlit black monoliths traces the Royal Oak saga over its fifty year existence with hundreds of pieces on display each confirms the extraordinary worldwide success of a watch that was given a cool reception at the time of its launch in 1972 According to the brand opinion was divided A lot of people were convinced Audemars Piguet couldn t survive such a disruptive approach but we didn t lose our nerve on it s hard to imagine how shocked people were by a big bold stainless steel luxury watch with the look of a diving suit faceplate But in 1972 it broke the mould At the time despite a variety of forms watches nonetheless conformed to a certain style thin classic and in precious metal More suited to wearing under a dinner jacket or for an evening at the opera they weren t even remotely adapted to the exciting outdoor lifestyle of a new generation The Royal Oak s revolutionary design was a gamechanger Made by a brand that had never been afraid to defy convention it raised steel to the same status as gold and captured the zeitgeist with unapologetic muscle apparent in the beautifully executed made for action case and bracelet While hindsight tells us they were right to ignore the doomsayers it did take nerve to launch a mechanical sports watch when quartz was all the rage with a radically new design in a conservative industry in steel but sold at the same price as gold Nearly fifty years Creativity and innovation Introduced in 1993 the Royal Oak Offshore would be the logical next step Larger bulkier thicker it took the concept of the Royal Oak and ran with it More sport than luxury it revived a tradition of rugged reliable tool watches Over the years the Royal Oak has lent itself to a variety of materials sizes and complications becoming a laboratory for creativity and innovation that continues this year with the presentation of the Diver and the Chronograph in the Royal Oak Offshore collection The three Royal Oak Offshore Diver in stainless steel with a 42mm diameter are equipped with the new automatic Calibre 4308 featuring seconds indication and instant jump date Water resistant to 300 metres they feature an updated dial aesthetic in khaki blue or grey and the personalisation option of a quick change strap They are as Audemars Piguet observes fit for the wildest adventures in and out of the water The new line of Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph in a 43mm case size comprising five models in stainless steel pink gold or titanium is the watch s first redesign since the early 2000s While retaining all of the model s distinctive characteristics case and dial have evolved for a fresh aesthetic and a more refined ergonomic shape Again straps can be swapped in and out Making its debut in the collection the automatic Calibre 4401 is Audemars Piguet s latest integrated flyback chronograph and the brand ensures us built for adventure Christophe Roulet AUDE MARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE SELF WINDING CHRONOGR APH AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE SELF WINDING CHRONOGRAPH 43 MM AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE DIVER SWISS HAUTE HORLOGERIE 42 MM AUDEMARS PIGUE T PRESENTS T WO NE W VARIATIONS ON THE ROYAL AUDEMARS PIGUET S NEW LINE OF ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE IN A 43MM CASE SIZE BR AND AUDEMARS PIGUET INTRODUCES THREE NEW ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE DIVER OAK OFFSHORE SELF WINDING CHRONOGR APH 42 MM POWERED BY CALIBRE COMPRISING FIVE MODELS IN STAINLESS STEEL 18K PINK GOLD OR TITANIUM IS IN 42MM STAINLESS STEEL CASES FIT TED WITH THE NEW CALIBRE 4308 THEY 4404 THE L ATEST INTEGR ATED FLYBACK CHRONOGR APH MOVEMENT FROM THE THE FIRST REFRESH OF THE COLLECTION SINCE THE 44MM DIAMETER THAT WAS ARE BUILT FOR ADVENTURE ON L AND AND UNDER WATER ALL THREE FE ATURE A BR AND CASED IN ULTR A RESISTANT TITANIUM OR STAINLESS STEEL WITH A MEGA RELEASED IN THE EARLY 2000S STILL WITH THE MODEL S DISTINCTIVE CHAR AC REFRESHED DIAL AESTHETIC IN KHAKI BLUE OR GREY STR APS CAN BE SWAPPED TAPISSERIE DIAL IN BLUE OR KHAKI BOTH MODELS ARE FIT TED WITH A COORDI TERISTICS A SUBTLE REWORKING OF THE CASE AND DIAL INTRODUCES A FRESH IN AND OUT TO GIVE E VERY E XPEDITION A UNIQUE ST YLE NATING INTERCHANGE ABLE STR AP IN TE XTURED RUBBER AESTHETIC AND A MORE REFINED ERGONOMIC SHAPE MAKING ITS DEBUT IN THE ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE COLLECTION IS CALIBRE 4401 THE BR AND S L ATEST INTEGR ATED FLYBACK CHRONOGR APH MOVEMENT ALSO NEW IS THE INTERCHANGEABLE STR AP SYSTEM

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EDITORIAL WATCH YOUR TIME 17 TIME A HERM S OBJECT THE ANCIENT ART OF LACE MAKING NEEDLEWORK The crafts of Venice That Venice is celebrating 1 600 years since the laying of its first stone is yet another reason to visit the Serenissima a city of immense beauty and witness to the centuries old crafts still practiced there Numerous artistic crafts have seen daylight in this marvellous city While different from the crafts that accompany watchmaking they are no less demanding of manual and technical skill expert knowledge of materials and an intuitive sense of beauty One eloquent example is lacemaking a form of needlework that embellishes furnishing interior decoration and clothes We employ more than twenty different techniques explains Lorenzo Ammendola the fourth generation of the family at the head of Emilia Burano an institution in lacemaking Over the years we have established a kind of assembly line where each lacemaker specialises in one technique picking up and carrying on the work of a colleague Lacemaking originated on the island of Burano We cater to an international clientele We also supply the Vatican luxury hotels such as the Cipriani and film companies Traditionally the men of Burano went out fishing while the women stayed at home working at their own pace It takes four months to complete one of our doilies Close to Burano on the island of Mazzorbo the Venissa vineyard carries on traditional Venetian viticulture This year sees the tenth vintage from the dorona di Venezia a native grape that is quite literally unique The variety was thought to have been lost until through pure serendipity Gianluca Bisol rediscovered the last remaining vines and from them created a magnificent estate surrounded by medieval walls with its own osteria and a Michelin starred restaurant whose cucina ambientale emphasises the connection between the dishes served and the surrounding environment Venissa produces around 3 500 bottles a year the result of a four year ageing in barrels followed by a further one year in the bottle Precious and unique The label is an engraved gold leaf a different one for each vintage which brings us to another typically Venetian craft gold beating or the transformation of precious metal into the finest and thinnest gold leaf for use in restoration interior design cosmetics even edible gold leaf for food and drink The firm of Mario Berta Battiloro in Cannaregio has been producing gold and silver leaf since 1926 For a leaf weighing 0 02 gramme HERM S H08 THE TE XTURE OF TIME I beat the gold with my hammer 30 000 times says Marino Menegazzo The leaves are then cut and stored in custom made containers Mario Berta Battiloro is the only company in Europe still producing handbeaten gold leaf This rapid tour cannot end without a gondola ride along the Grand Canal a chance to admire the facades of the aristocratic residences which have been converted into luxury hotels The five star Ca Sagredo is one This fifteenth century palazzo is classified as a national monument Lounges have been beautifully frescoed by Venetian masters while the rooms are decorated with stucco together with period fabrics and furnishings Speaking of gondolas don t be surprised while in Venice to bump into Vianello Gianfranco Crea seven time winner of the Historical Regatta master boatbuilder and founder of Cantiere Nautico Crea on the island of Giudecca Venetian boats are restored and custom made here taking into account the future owner s height weight and arm span A gondola is asymmetrical There is nothing logical about its construction comments Vianello Gianfranco Crea But they are ideal for navigating the waterways with a single oar It takes between three and six months to build a gondola and the skills of a dozen craftsmen from carpenters to upholsterers and blacksmiths The same concentration of expertise style and technique Paolo De Vecchi that goes into the making of a watch THE GONDOLA IS THE MOST FAMOUS AND ICONIC IMAGE OF VENICE BUILDING ONE REQUIRES MANY MONTHS OF WORK AND THE KNOWLEDGE OF A DOZEN SPECIALISED CRAFTS ON A DESIGN ORIGINATED IN BURANO ONE OF THE ISLANDS IN THE VENETIAN LAGOON FROM THERE IT BECAME INTERNATIONALLY FAMOUS AND APPRECIATED THE VENISSA ESTATE ON THE ISLAND OF MAZZORBO IS A RECENT PROPERTY WHERE THIS YEAR THE TENTH HARVEST OF DORONA A NATIVE AND TRULY UNIQUE GRAPE VARIETY IS TAKING PLACE THE THIN GOLD LEAVES MUCH SOUGHT AFTER FOR A VARIETY OF USES INCLUDING THE LABELS OF VENISSA S FINE WINES ARE MADE BY HAND BY THE BATTILORO Visit Venice One of the most popular cultural and travel destinations Venice is a city of excellence from its monuments to its hotels its crafts its restaurants its museums and its exhibitions Venezia Unica is the one stop for everything the city has to offer Its Venezia Unica City Pass gives access to transportation cultural attractions and places of interest making it easy to plan your stay in the Serenissima Art craft tours www deepinvenice com Ca Sagredo Hotel www casagredohotel com Crea www cantierenauticocrea com Emilia Burano www emiliaburano it Mario Berta Battiloro www berta battiloro com Venezia Unica City Pass www veneziaunica it Venissa www venissa it

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FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 19 Classic attitude Cartier continues its revisit of icons from the past with fresh interpretations of the Cloche first released in the 1920s and the Tank Must a legend of the 1970s CYRILLE VIGNERON PRESIDENT AND CEO CARTIER INTERNATIONAL Few brands can rival Cartier for creativity One of the Parisian firm s most prolific periods was the early twentieth century illustrated by a model the Tank that has lent itself to so many iterations it has come to symbolise over a hundred years of Cartier s history When earlier in the year the brand announced a commemorative edition for the centennial of the Tank Cintr e every one of the 150 pieces in yellow gold was pre sold even before it launched Since Cyrille Vigneron took over as Chief Executive Officer in 2016 Cartier has shown how immensely successful reissues of archive models can be We have revitalised our iconic models and lines says Mr Vigneron Cartier was known for harmonious shapes balanced proportions and beautiful designs By seeking to constantly release new and different products Cartier explored beyond its territory REVERSO TRIBUTE J a e g e r Le Co ul t re B o ut i q ue 1 3 Ol d B o nd St re e t M ay fa i r Lo nd o n W1 S 4SX if it did raise eyebrows in certain circles We wanted to come back to the original but we also wanted to approach it in a different way The question being how The answer is very much future oriented as Cartier has succeeded in producing a solar powered Tank Must without detracting from the look of the original thanks to invisible perforations in the Roman numerals that allow light to reach the photovoltaic SolarBeatTM movement which has a lifespan of 16 years Cartier s team spent two years just to develop this solar energy system In keeping with the forward looking theme the strap contains 50 plant matter from apple waste for a substantially reduced carbon footprint Tank Cintr e the Tonneau and the Tank Asym trique Now the Cloche becomes the fifth model to join the collection It too takes us a hundred years back in time the cloche or bell shape first appeared at Cartier in 1920 It takes its name from its resemblance to a counter top service bell when turned horizontally This return to familiar ground where the classics are inevitable to borrow Cyrille Vigneron s expression and heritage is a source of permanent inspiration has become hardwired into Cartier s identity Its chief executive is convinced that building on the past lays the foundations for the future Both these notions are highlighted in this year s reissue of the Tank Must a classic from the 1970s The Tank Must de Cartier was extremely well received at the time of its launch even True to oneself It s reassuring to see there is no tension between heritage and innovation comments Cyrille Vigneron The SolarBeatTM is an innovative and sustainable movement housed in one of the oldest Cartier watches with a perfectly timeless design The past is alive you could say simply because the beauty of a watch is as remarkable today as it was a hundred years ago This philosophy is perhaps nowhere more evident than in the Priv collection which revisits Cartier s most iconic designs as limited editions The collection began with a rediscovery of the Crash watch followed by interpretations of the The Cloche de Cartier is typical of how Cartier considers a shape for its aesthetic but also with a view to each of its possible evocations It highlights the House s talent for playing with simple forms and revealing all their potential says Cartier s Director of Image Style and Heritage Pierre Rainero Apart from its distinctive form one of the Cloche s most salient characteristics is to enable the wearer to read the time without having to turn the arm It can also be set on a table and used as a clock For this reissue Cartier is presenting versions in pink gold yellow gold and platinum all driven by the manual winding Calibre 1917 alongside a skeletonised version whose movement has been adapted to fit the case Will this latest opus appeal to younger buyers as much as previous editions Cyrille Vigneron believes so but has no intention of making products specifically for the new generation You have to interact with people in ways they find natural but more importantly you have to stay true to yourself Eric Dumatin TANK MUST DE CARTIER TANK AND MUST T WO LEGENDS IN ONE ON THE ONE SOLARBEAT MOVEMENT CARTIER HAS SUCCEEDED IN POWERING ITS TANK CLOCHE DE CARTIER WATCH THE CLOCHE OR BELL FORM APPEARED IN CARTIER S HAND TAN K THE ESSENTIAL AND DANDY WATCH ON THE OTHER M UST A MUST FROM SOL AR ENERGY WITHOUT ALTERING THE WATCH S APPEAR ANCE THE DESIGN LANGUAGE IN 1920 THUS NAMED FOR ITS RESEMBLANCE TO A COUNTER TOP CONCEP T THAT REWROTE THE CONVENTIONS OF LUXURY IN THE 1970S TANK SOL ARBEAT MOVEMENT WAS TWO YEARS IN DEVELOPMENT AND HAS A LIFESPAN SERVICE BELL WHEN SET HORIZONTALLY THE CLOCHE DE CARTIER IS A RARE FORM MUST IS HOROLOGICAL CHIC FOR ALL A WATCH WHOSE DESIGN AND MOVE OF SIXTEEN YE ARS BE T WEEN SERVICES EQUALLY INNOVATIVE THE STR AP OF IN THE COMPANY S HOROLOGICAL REPERTOIRE A COLLECTOR S ITEM THAT CARRIES MENTS ARE IN CONSTANT PROGRESSION FOR THE LATEST ITER ATIONS CARTIER S THE TANK MUST SOL ARBE AT IS MADE FROM 40 PL ANT MAT TER DERIVED FROM ALL THE HALLMARKS OF A CARTIER WATCH ADAPTING THE RAILROAD MINUTE SCALE DESIGN STUDIO HAS IMAGINED MONOCHROME VERSIONS AND AN INNOVATIVE APPLE WASTE FROM THE FOOD INDUSTRY IN SWITZERL AND GERMANY AND ITALY AND NUMERALS TO ITS ASYMMETRICAL DIAL THE CROWN IS SET WITH A CABOCHON SOL AR POWERED MOVEMENT

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22 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS Turning 90 in style An uncontested symbol of creativity and invention in watchmaking Jaeger LeCoultre s Reverso is celebrating its 90th anniversary in a convivial pop up setting that includes the 1931 Caf opened first in Shanghai then Paris CATHERINE R NIER CEO JAEGER LECOULTRE This autumn Paris is the place to be for Jaeger LeCoultre which has decided to celebrate the 90th anniversary of the Reverso in the City of Light at the 1931 Caf an elegant and convivial new venue created to celebrate this icon of Art Deco design After Shanghai this pop up caf is moving to Paris where guests can immerse themselves in the ambience of the period The design and style of the Reverso are very much part of an era and so it was important that we show the watch within its context says Jaeger LeCoultre s Chief Executive Officer Catherine R nier The Reverso is typical of this artistic movement which favoured clean lines and geometric forms without superficial frills or fancy Paris was the obvious choice for the event just as Shanghai was in Asia a city that had its own thriving Art Deco period during the 1930s filed in March 1931 and the launch of production nine months later Success was immediate notes the brand As a quintessential expression of Art Deco style and the embodiment of modernity the Reverso was adopted by tastemakers from all walks of life Cases were offered in gold as well as the original Staybrite steel and feminine models appeared with options to be worn as pendants or handbag clips as well as on the wrist caf must have its menu Jaeger LeCoultre has called on the talent of Nina M tayer Twice named P tissier of the Year this young chef has concocted an array of delicious cakes and pastries which as well as borrowing the caf s Art Deco aesthetic conjure up Jaeger LeCoultre s home in La Vall e de Joux with each bite thanks to ingredients that include what else but delicious Swiss chocolate The Reverso is one of the rare watches to have sailed through the decades with its aura intact and its potential as fresh as ever Indeed its comeback after the quartz years was hailed as symbolic of Jaeger LeCoultre s success Its story began with a challenge to create a wristwatch that could be worn on the polo field without the risk of being smashed by an errant mallet or ball The rest as they say is history with the development by the French industrial designer Ren Alfred Chauvot of a reversible case a patent Style and technique Jaeger LeCoultre is recreating this atmosphere with an original concept dubbed Reverso Timeless Stories since 1931 As well as the caf a pop up store a fascinating retrospective and a workshop offer a chance to explore with all the senses the cultural and creative landscape of this seminal piece of contemporary design Admirers of the Reverso can soak up the atmosphere at the 1931 Caf which is described as combining the elegant interior of a 1930s ocean liner with the glamour of a film set Warm lighting a black and white palette signature Art Deco materials such as chrome glass and lacquered wood a marble floor with an inlaid geometric pattern a frosted glass chandelier every detail has been custom designed down to the three metal bands on the chairs that echo the gadroons on the Reverso s case And because every Completing this fusion of an elegant decor gastronomic delights and horological intelligence is a work by the American artist Michael Murphy whose suspended anamorphic installation shows the Reverso from a different angle specifically the Reverso Tribute Nonanti me Created for this 90th anniversary celebration it gives a new visual expression to classic complications On the front dial hours and minutes are completed by small seconds a large date display and moon phases Turning the case over reveals a figure of eight arrangement formed by a semi jumping digital hour indication above minutes on a rotating disc with a day night indication Superbly executed this anniversary Reverso illustrates to quote Catherine R nier the thoughtful balance of style and technique that is characteristic of Jaeger LeCoultre The two sides of the watchmaker s art are given their ultimate expression in a two sided watch Eric Dumatin JAEGER LECOULTRE REVERSO TRIBUTE NONANTI ME THE RE VERSO TRIBUTE THE SMALLER OPENING DISPL AYS A SEMI JUMPING DIGITAL HOUR INDICATION JAEGER LECOULTRE PARIS CAF 1931 FOR THE REVERSO S 90TH ANNIVERSARY NONANTI ME GIVES A NEW VISUAL E XPRESSION TO SE VER AL CL ASSIC COM IN THE L ARGER OPENING MINUTES ARE SHOWN ON A ROTATING DISK THAT IS JAEGER LECOULTRE IS TR ACING THIS REMARK ABLE WATCH S HISTORY IN A VAST PLICATIONS THE FRONT DIAL DISPL AYS A MOON PHASE SE T IN THE CIRCLE PARTLY CONCE ALED BY A THREE QUARTER PL ATE L ACQUERED VIVID BLUE RE TROSPECTIVE AF TER ITS DEBUT IN SHANGHAI REVERSO TIMELESS STORIES FOR SMALL SECONDS THE WINDOW FOR THE L ARGE DATE DISPL AY UNDER AND SPRINKLED WITH TINY GOLDEN STARS TO REPRESENT THE NIGHT SK Y SINCE 1931 TR AVELS TO PARIS WHERE IT JOINS THE POP UP 1931 CAF THIS 12 O CLOCK IS FR AMED BY AN APPLIED PINK GOLD BORDER THE SOLID PINK AT ITS CENTRE IN A SMALL CIRCLE AN APPLIED GOLDEN SUN AND MOON TR AVEL EXHIBITION EXPLORES THE CRE ATIVE AND CULTUR AL HERITAGE OF THE REVERSO GOLD CASEBACK SHOWS T WO ROUND APERTURES ONE SMALL AND ONE OVER THE HORIZON TO INDICATE DAY AND NIGHT IN FOUR THEMES E ACH COMMEMOR ATING THE ANNIVERSARY OF A WATCH THAT L ARGE ARR ANGED AS A FIGURE OF EIGHT AND EDGED WITH GADROONS IS 90 YE ARS YOUNG

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Roman flavour Bvlgari is about a certain way of life where Italian exuberance encounters Swiss precision in watches that range from baroque to stylishly functional The choice is yours ANTOINE PIN MANAGING DIRECTOR BVLGARI WATCH DIVISION WATCH YOUR TIME UK 280x380 TSD 21 SP2 INTERNATIONAL On sale date 23 SEPTEMBER 24 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS Bvlgari which operates its own fully integrated manufacturing facilities has forged an enviable reputation for complicated watches in particular chiming mechanisms True to form this year it presents the Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon Case and movement components have been specifically conceived to produce a sound that is both crisp and powerful As if this weren t enough Bvlgari is also outstanding in one of mechanical watchmaking s most challenging disciplines the extreme miniaturisation required to build movements and by extension watches of unprecedented thinness Having toppled seven world s thinnest records in seven years since 2014 the brand is very much in a class of its own Joy of living This expertise takes the slim form of the Octo Finissimo a shining example of design forward functionality which this year extends to the thinnest perpetual calendar on the market The movement calibre BVL 305 assembles 408 components in a height of just 2 75 mm An astounding achievement When you have a heritage such as this at your disposal comments Antoine Pin you can either put it inside a glass cabinet in a museum or you can choose to Keeping this technical wizardry company is the typically Italian joie de vivre of Bvlgari the jeweller captured in its women s watch collections Here too there is something for every desire The Serpenti revives an ancient symbol The Lucea which debuted in 2014 stands for affordable elegance The Diva is a canvas for the decorative arts in particular gem setting This year s Lucea Intarsio delights with delicate mother of pearl marquetry dials while the Diva s Dream Peacock and Divissima illuminate the arts of feather marquetry and the jeweller s craft Beautiful to look at and beautifully made in the words of Antoine Pin whose favourite references include Leonardo da Vinci Scientist engineer and artist the original Renaissance man is a fitting inspiration for those who like Bvlgari seek to turn matter into something divine Christophe Roulet BVLG AR I OCTO ROMA CARILLON TOURBILLON THE OCTO ROM A CAR I LLON ENHANCING THE TR ANSM ISSION OF SOUND WHICH ALSO TR AVELS THROUGH BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO PERPETUAL CALENDAR SINCE 2014 BVLGARI HAS TOUR B I LLON I S A SONOROUS WON DER A C R I S P P OWER FU L SOUN D I S A THE THR EE OPEN I NGS C OR R ESP OND I NG TO THE THR EE CH I M ES THESE AR E DEMONSTR ATED ITS MASTERY OF E X TR A THIN WATCHES AS CONFIRMED BY KE Y I ND ICATOR OF THE QUALIT Y OF A CH I M I NG WATCH HENCE BVLGAR I HAS F IXED D I R ECTLY TO THE CASE AGA I N FOR THE M OST EFFECTIVE D I FFUS ION THIS WORLD S THINNEST PERPE TUAL CALENDAR WHICH IS ALSO THE SE VENTH C ONCEIVED THE TITAN I U M CASE AND THE BVL428 TOUR B I LLON M OVEM ENT OF SOUND THE BAC K OF THE CASE I S ALSO HOLLOWED AND F I N I SHED WITH WORLD RECORD FOR THE BR AND THE IN HOUSE BVL 305 CALIBRE SUCCEEDS SPEC I FICALLY TO AM PLI F Y AND D I FFUSE SOUND THE CASE IS HOLLOWED TO A TITAN I U M GR I D TO PROTECT TH I S R ESONANCE ZONE AND ALLOW SOUND IN ASSEMBLING ITS 408 COMPONENTS IN A HEIGHT OF 2 75MM CONTAINED IN A R EDUCE THE AM OUNT OF M E TAL BE T WEEN I NS I DE AND OUTS I DE THER EBY TO BE TR ANS M IT TED TO THE OUTS I DE TITANIUM CASE THAT IS WATER RESISTANT TO 30 ME TRES AND ME ASURES 40MM IN DIAME TER FOR A HEIGHT OF JUST 5 80MM SRA Architectes KPF bring it to life It s obvious which of the two options Bvlgari has taken Chiming watches for example represent a very small and highly specialised market that enables us to confirm our credibility as makers of complicated timepieces The same goes for ultra thin where there is still a great deal left to explore Bvlgari is many things including a master of contrast Its design aesthetic ranges from industrial to baroque It demonstrates enviable expertise in chiming mechanisms and also makes highly desirable sports watches Its jewellery is a multi coloured extravaganza while its timepieces are miniaturized precision mechanics Originally established as a jeweller in Rome it has embraced the rigorous demands of Swiss watchmaking like a natural To quote the managing director of the brand s watch division Antoine Pin Bvlgari is really about a way of life about dolce vita It takes its inspiration from the splendours of the Pantheon wrapped in the scent of a sea breeze on the Amalfi coast and firmly anchored at the foot of the Jura mountains where micromechanics bring us back down to earth Of course there is to be no reining in this creativity The men s and women s collections offer a vast playground for the watchmaker s expertise as well as the jeweller s exuberance Both have their place at Bvlgari and have equally forged the identity of the brand Our men s and women s watches have a distinct aesthetic and inspirations which our customers identify with says Antoine Pin When it comes to products creativity goes in both directions Only the Bvlgari Bvlgari collection is designed for all TAMBOUR STREET DIVER

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SPORT WATCH YOUR TIME 27 Built for adventure o Christophe Roulet The man who has no imagination has no wings Muhammad Ali 1942 2016 Move over vintage sports watches are having their moment in the sun The one piece of equipment you can wear outside the gym S h x p i r H u a n g w w w a d b a g e n c y c o m Not everyone aspires to a quiet life Or so it would seem from watch brands recent releases Rugged resistant and robust today s timepieces are built to take on the obstacle course of contemporary living Nostalgia has been big business in watchmaking of late satisfying demand for durability and authenticity with styles that borrow from our father s or grandfather s day One of the collateral benefits of this neo vintage trend has been to rekindle interest in the pre digital era and the tool watch in all its splendour The modern wristwatch owes a debt of gratitude to the military The Roaring Twenties may have been the creative cue watchmakers needed to break free from the round mould of the pocket watch the military watch tough legible and easy to repair became the blueprint in a prosperous post war era that made time for leisure travel sport and the great outdoors Certain of these watches have become genuine icons forging entire collections with qualities that would make their ancestors proud ROLE X OYSTER PERPETUAL SUBMARINER TRUE TO ITS AESTHETIC HERITAGE THE NEW SUBMARINER IN OYSTERSTEEL HAS A BL ACK DIAL AND ROTATING BE ZEL WITH MATCHING CER ACHROM INSERT INTRODUCED IN 2020 IT FE ATURES A REDESIGNED SLIGHTLY L ARGER 41MM CASE AND A REMODELLED BR ACELET ITS MECHANICAL AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT CALIBRE 3230 BENEFITS FROM THE L ATEST TECHNOLOGICAL ADVANCES FROM ROLE X FOR WHICH A NUMBER OF PATENTS HAVE BEEN FILED IT ADHERES TO A HIGH STANDARD OF PERFORMANCE IN TERMS OF PRECISION RELIABILIT Y SHOCKRESISTANCE RESISTANCE TO MAGNETIC FIELDS AND AUTONOMY LIKE ALL ROLE X WATCHES THE OYSTER PERPETUAL SUBMARINER MEETS THE REQUIREMENTS OF SUPERL ATIVE CHRONOMETER CERTIFICATION WHICH GUAR ANTEES PRECISION OF 2 2 SECONDS PER DAY Demonstrations of expertise What does this mean for today s watch buyer Firstly a plethora of sports watches designed for functionality and borrowing many of the features of earlier tool watches They then morphed into the still hot sport luxe category Whether you are a serious athlete or simply want to look the part watchmakers have you covered Some of today s most successful brands made their name with watches cut out for adventure the most salient example being Richard Mille probably the most

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28 WATCH YOUR TIME SPORT commercially successful brand of the past two decades Launched in 2001 it has built its reputation on watches at the cutting edge of technology and materials science and in 2020 was on course to become the eighth member of the Swiss watch industry s billionaires club brands with turnover in excess of one billion Swiss francs Covid 19 shutdowns kept the champagne on ice but it s only a matter of months before the brand hits that sweet spot the ideal way to celebrate a twentieth anniversary For a brand that wants to show off its expertise building watches for extreme conditions can cement a reputation This year s Big Pilot s Watch Shock Absorber XPL from IWC is a case in point Cut from Ceratanium the brand s proprietary titanium alloy it is the first watch to be fitted with IWC s patented shock absorbing system that was eight years in gestation At the heart of the system is a cantilever spring in amorphous bulk metallic glass that cushions the movement inside the case Thus protected it can survive accelerations in excess of 30 000 g or one hundred times the impact of a fist hitting a table Zenith is also in the running this year with the Defy Extreme an all terrain 1 100th of a second mechanical chronograph which the brand describes as exuding robustness resilience and a penchant for exploring new horizons I II V Boldly go Exploration is hard wired into the history of Rolex which has released a new generation of its archetypal tool watch the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II Introduced exactly fifty years ago to withstand the often extreme conditions encountered when travelling to the remotest corners of the globe it combines an engraved 24 hour scale on the bezel with an additional orange hour hand and is water resistant to 100 metres This latest version is fitted with Calibre 3285 for which multiple patents have been filed Panerai is another strong contender in the innovation stakes Its Idea Lab Laboratorio di Idee has developed a succession of avant garde materials that includes Carbotech a carbon fibre composite BMG Tech a highly resistant amorphous metallic glass and Panerai Composite a ceramic produced by electro anodizing aluminium The objective to create the ultimate watch one that is resistant reliable precise and light on the wrist ready to go from the depths of the ocean to the highest peaks As R D divisions take watches into new territory they stoke the fantasies of those who like to imagine they could actually need such a piece of gear How many kayakists or mountain bikers use a sports watch for timing and how many wear it for show Wearing Richard Mille won t give you Rafa s forehand but you can live the dream vicariously at least That this dream should come with III IIII VI VII I AU D E M A R S P I G U E T R OYAL OAK SELF WINDING III PASHA DE CARTIER CHRONOGR APH WATCH BACK V ZENITH DEF Y E X TREME THE DEF Y E XTREME IS FOR VI I G R AN D SE IKO SPRING DRIVE CHRONOGR APH CHRONOGR APH 41 MM THIS NE W VERSION OF THE CENTRE STAGE SINCE 2020 THE PASHA COLLECTION LIFE S ADRENALIN JUNKIES THIS 1 100TH OF A SECOND THIS WATCH ALLIES ALL THE FUNCTIONALIT Y OF THE ROYAL OAK SELF WINDING CHRONOGR APH ME ASURES WELCOMES ITS FIRST CHRONOGR APH FIT TED WITH MECHANICAL CHRONOMETER COMES AS MULTIPLE ITER SPRING DRIVE CHRONOGR APH CALIBRE 9R86 WITH A 41MM IN DIAME TER AND IS CASED IN PINK GOLD NOW THE IN HOUSE AUTOMATIC CARTIER 1904 CH MC MOVE ATIONS INCLUDING A VERSION IN MAT TE TITANIUM THAT NEW DESIGN AND A NEW COMBINATION OF MATERIALS WITH A SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL BACK IT INTRODUCES THE MENT WHICH IS VISIBLE THROUGH THE SAPPHIRE BACK BR I NGS OUT THE ASSER TIVE PERSONALIT Y OF THE THE RESULT IS A TIMEPIECE OF R ARE REFINEMENT THE IN HOUSE AUTOMATIC CALIBRE 4401 A NEW GENER A ITS DESIGN RIFFS ON THE VERY FIRST PASHA CHRONOS ANGUL AR CASE FINISHED WITH A FACE T TED BE ZEL BEZEL IMMEDIATELY CATCHES THE EYE WITH ITS DODEC TION CHRONOGR APH MOVEMENT TO THE ROYAL OAK FROM 1985 VI TAG HEUER CARRER A PORSCHE CHRONOGR APH AHEDRON SHAPE ITS ZIRCONIA CER AMIC OUTER L AYER OFFSHORE COLLECTION IIII BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO CHRONOGR APH GMT TAG HEUER AND PORSCHE HAVE A LOT IN COM MON AND 18K GOLD BASE I I BREG UET T YPE X XI 3815 THE BREGUE T NAM E IS BV LG AR I C L A I M S YE T ANOTH ER R EC OR D FOR TH E STARTING WITH THE NAME OF THEIR ICON BE IT A WATCH RENOWNED FOR ITS INFLUENCE ON WATCHMAKING WORLD S THINNEST AUTOMATIC CHRONOGR APH AT OR ON FOUR WHEELS THE LEGENDARY CARRER A IT IT IS ALSO ASSOCIATED WITH AVIATION ILLUSTR ATED BY 3 30MM HIGH THE INTEGR ATED IN HOUSE MOVEMENT MAKES SENSE THAT THE T WO HAVE CHOSEN TO CEMENT THE T YPE XX COLLECTION OF PILOT S CHRONOGR APHS COMBINES A CHRONOGR APH WITH A SECOND TI ME THEIR NEWLY CONCLUDED STR ATEGIC ALLIANCE WITH JOINING THIS COLLECTION IS THIS T YPE X XI 3815 WITH ZONE THIS TECHNICAL TOUR DE FORCE IS HOUSED A TAG HEUER CARRER A P ORSCHE CHRONOGR APH ITS SPORT Y MODERN FLOURISHES INSIDE THE ULTR A CONTEMPOR ARY OCTO CASE

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30 WATCH YOUR TIME SPORT FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 31 a famous name attached so much the better Motor sports is one area where the entente with watch brands is particularly cordiale The alignment is perfect between two industries whose involvement with precision mechanics is differentiated only by scale The past months have been rich in new affiliations Breitling has renewed its partnership with Bentley Roger Dubuis is a familiar sight in the paddocks alongside Pirelli and Lamborghini while IWC burns rubber with Mercedes AMG Just a few weeks after Richard Mille announced it was taking over the spot left vacant by Hublot as partner to Ferrari TAG Heuer tied the knot with Porsche leaving Girard Perregaux to mint a deal with James Bond s carmaker of choice Aston Martin Going for gold A watch doesn t need to be an action hero to win the enthusiast s heart First seen in the 1970s and characterised by an integrated bracelet the luxury sports watch has taken the watch world by storm with a host of brands offering their interpretation of a genre that is practical and functional but also strong on style slickly designed models that will take any amount of knocks All have in common the simplicity of their mechanisms A watch that only gives the time possibly the date is less likely to develop a weak spot and therefore better equipped for use in all circumstances These are watches that will never skip a beat Literally When complications are brought into the mix this will almost always be a chronograph in a split seconds version for the most sophisticated As for materials the ubiquitous stainless steel is giving way to high tech materials such as ceramic while gold platinum and even sapphire crystal tip the balance from sport to luxe Traditionally dominated by brands that had already forged a reputation for mixing brawn with beauty think Audemars Piguet and its Royal Oak Patek Philippe and the Nautilus or Hublot s Big Bang the sport luxe segment is drawing other respected names such as Chopard with the Alpine Eagle A Lange S hne and the Odysseus in steel and H Moser whose Streamliner is already a pillar of the brand Even makers such as Bvlgari Cartier or Louis Vuitton whose experience of sport tends to be from the VIP tribunes have entered the field the first with an Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT holder of a world s thinnest record the second with a Pasha Chronograph and the third with the Tambour Street Diver Even the likes of Vacheron Constantin and Montblanc are making an impression with intricate mechanical chronographs cased in gold With its bold design language and solid functionality the sports watch is clearly a winner Sustainable luxury Panerai is emerging as one of the most environmentally committed watch brands This year it is focusing on a long term objective to extend its Ause of recycled materials JE AN MARC PONTROU CEO PANER AI I II V III IIII VI VII I ALPINA SEASTRONG DIVER GYRE AUTOMATIC ALPINA III OMEGA SEAMASTER DIVER 300M BLACK BLACK THIS V MONTBL ANC 1858 MONOPUSHER CHRONOGR APH V I I LON G I N E S AVIGATION BIGEYE I NS P I R ED BY A HAS RELE ASED T WO LIMITED EDITIONS OF THIS ECO NEW SE AMASTER GOES OVER TO THE DARK SIDE WITH ORIGINS MONTB L ANC IS REISSUING A 1930S MON VINTAGE CHRONOGR APH FROM THE PIONEERING AGE FRIENDLY WATCH ONE MASCULINE AND ONE FEMININE THE PROMISE OF THE BL ACKEST BL ACK OMEGA TAKES O P US H ER M I L I TA RY C H RO N OG R A P H AS A L I M I TED OF AVIATION THE AVIGATION BIGEYE EMPHASISES LEG CASE STR AP AND PACK AGING INCORPOR ATE RECYCLED ADVANTAGE OF CER AM IC S VERSATI LIT Y TO CRE ATE EDITION OF 100 PIECES HOUSED IN AN I M PRESSIVE IBI LIT Y WITH ITS OVERSIZE M INUTES COUNTER THE MATERIALS PROVING THE BR AND S COMMITMENT TO CONTR ASTING SHADES OF A SINGLE COLOUR EVEN THE 46MM BRONZE CASE WITH AN OFFICER BACK IT CAP L ARGE PUSHERS ARE DESIGNED TO BE E ASILY OPER ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION SUPER LUMINOVA TURES THE SPIRIT OF HISTORIC CHRONOGR APHS IN ATED WHILE WE ARING GLOVES AN ESSENTIAL FE ATURE II LOUIS VUIT TON TAMBOUR DAMIER GR APHITE R ACE INDE XES IS A DARK ANTHR ACITE GREY VINTAGE T WISTS SUCH AS THE BI COMPA X DIAL WITH OF A PILOT S WATCH CHRONOGR APH LOU I S VU I T TON I S PR ESENT I NG A IIII BL ANCPAIN FIF T Y FATHOMS NO R AD BL ANCPAIN A PERIPHER AL TACHYME TER SCALE SHARP AND CONTEMPOR ARY SPORTS RENDITION OF THE RE VISITS THE NO R ADIATIONS FIF T Y FATHOMS A MID VI TUDOR BLACK BAY CERAMIC TUDOR S FIRST WATCH TAMBOUR THE DISTINCTIVE V SIGNATURE IMAGINED 1960S DIVE WATCH THE NO R ADIATION SYMBOL ON TO BE AWARDED MASTER CHRONOME TER CERTIFICA BY GASTON LOUIS VUIT TON INTERSECTS THE DIAL THE DIAL INDICATED THE ABSENCE OF R ADIUM IN THE TION ONE OF THE MOST DEMANDING IN THE INDUSTRY SUCH A BOLD MODERN DESIGN ECHOES THE AESTHETIC LUMINOUS PAINT IS A BL ACK BAY A MODEL THAT REVISITS THE BR AND S FOR THE DIVING SCALE HANDS AND SENSIBILITIES OF VIRGIL ABLOH ARTISTIC DIRECTOR 1960S DIVE WATCHES CASE AND BE ZEL ARE IN BL ACK FOR LOUIS VUIT TON MENSWE AR CER AMIC WITH THE DIAL AND STR AP ALSO IN BL ACK Italian football fans are notoriously among the most ardent supporters in the world but we now know that the country s sailing fans can give them a run for their money as demonstrated in Auckland when the Italian challenger Luna Rossa took on the defending champion Team New Zealand in the 36th America s Cup After a nail biting final the Italians left with head held high and determined they would be back to try again The sentiment is shared by Panerai partner to what Chief Executive Officer Jean Marc Pontrou calls a fabulous human adventure The brand is certainly in its element around water for decades it was the official supplier of measuring instruments to the Italian Navy including watches That was in the early twentieth century a role that would have a decisive influence on Panerai s future and shape its perception of the world Now these bonds between Panerai and the sea are prompting fresh awareness of the state of the oceans and beyond them the entire planet these past twenty years the consequences of human activity are showing in increasingly dramatic ways Horn spoke in no uncertain terms about the massive role industry has to play in making the world a better place adding that we need real action by companies and we need it now It s a message that hasn t fallen on deaf ears at Panerai Horn is an ambassador for the brand Jean Marc Pontrou recalls how three years ago Mike came to see us with a piece of drive shaft from his boat and challenged us to turn it into a watch and that s what really set us thinking Not only did we succeed in producing a watch that was 40 recycled we started looking into a sustainable business model and asking why wouldn t it be possible to make watches entirely from recycled components the case and dial From now on for each of our new models we will indicate the percentage of recycled materials says Jean Marc Pontrou We re aiming for 30 recyclability for our collection by 2025 The company is also taking steps to reduce its carbon footprint and importantly is working to develop an open production ecosystem For both these e models Panerai worked with a dozen companies following the concept of a circular economy Many had never previously been involved in producing a watch and have gained experience which Jean Marc Pontrou hopes they will share with other watch brands for similar projects The more the better Speaking at one of the panels during the Watches and Wonders 2021 online watch fair explorer Mike Horn didn t beat about the bush Deforestation desertification ice melt wherever his explorations have taken him An example to follow The question has found an answer in the form of a Submersible e Lab ID 98 6 of whose weight comes from recycled materials from the titanium for the case dial and bridges to the silicon for the escapement even the Super LumiNova coating on the hands and indexes Joining this 30 piece limited edition is a Luminor Marina eSteel made with 58 4 by weight recycled steel for As part of this commitment to the environment and educating on green issues Panerai recently announced a partnership with the Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission of UNESCO to develop ocean literacy activities in the framework of the UN Decade of Ocean Science for Sustainable Development Eilean a restored 1930s Bermudian ketch belonging to Panerai is being made available to scientists and other seafarers for various missions The environment may not have time on its side it does have the support of watchmakers Eric Dumatin PANE R AI LUMINOR MARINA ESTEEL THE LUM INOR MAR INA ESTEEL IS AN PANER AI SUBMERSIBLE ELAB ID THE SUBMERSIBLE EL AB ID IS UNPRECE 100 RECYCLED SILICON FOR ITS MOVEMENT ESCAPEMENT BOTH ARE OBTAINED ADVANCEMENT IN PANER AI S COMMITMENT TO REDUCE THE NEED FOR VIRGIN DENTED IN THE WATCH INDUSTRY A TOTAL 98 6 OF ITS WEIGHT COMES FROM THROUGH DEDICATED SMALL SCALE RECYCLING PROCESSES THAT REUSE R AW MATERIAL EXTR ACTION AND ITS HIGH ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT RECYCLED BASED MATERIALS INTEGR ATING A HIGH R ATE OF RECYCLED ELEMENTS ITS CASE SAND MATERIAL WASTE FROM THE SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL TO THE GOLD HANDS MOST MATERIALS MAKE UP 89G OF ITS COMPONENTS OR 58 4 OF THE WATCH S WICH DIAL AND BRIDGES ARE COMPOSED OF ECOTITANIUM A RECYCLED TITA OF THE MA JOR COMPONENTS CONTAIN RECYCLED BASED MATERIAL PANER AI TOTAL WEIGHT 152 4G BOTH THE CASE AND THE DIAL ARE IN A NEW RECY NIUM ALLOY THAT IS A LIGHT WEIGHT AEROSPACE GR ADE METAL MADE OF MORE HOPES THE WATCH WILL ENCOUR AGE OTHER BR ANDS AND PARTNERS TO WORK CLED BASED STEEL ALLOY THAN 80 PURE RECYCLED CONTENT THE SUBMERSIBLE EL AB ID IS THE FIRST TOWARDS A MORE SUSTAINABLE FUTURE THROUGH THE CIRCUL AR USE OF WATCH TO USE 100 RECYCLED SUPER LUMINOVA ON ITS DIAL AND HANDS AND NATUR AL RESOURCES

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32 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS Writing time Montblanc is this year celebrating the bicentennial of the inking chronograph whose inventor Nicolas Rieussec has given his name to one of its collections In honour of this anniversary the brand presents the Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph LE 200 Citius Altius Fortius Adopted at the instigation of Baron de Coubertin for the founding of the Modern Olympic Games in 1894 the Olympic motto is familiar to all It urges athletes to excel themselves in a context of healthy competition But without watchmakers own Olympian efforts to measure time with ever greater precision their endeavours would be in vain The first timepiece to measure the seconds independently was made circa 1720 Another century would pass before the next decisive innovations most notably the work of Nicolas Rieussec 1781 1866 Clockmaker to King Louis XVIII of France on September 1st 1821 Rieussec presented a device of his own making which he used to time a horse race along the Champ de Mars in Paris Accurate to one fifth of a second the mechanism rotated two enamel dials with scales for minutes and seconds respectively Each time the device s operator pressed a pusher a hand dipped in ink made a small mark on the dials Rieussec presented his invention which recorded the time not just of the winning horse but of all the horses in the race to the Acad mie des Sciences in Paris He called it a chronograph from the Greek for writing time a name that was bound to spark the interest of Montblanc a foremost name in writing instruments when in the early 2000s it branched out into fine watchmaking The epiphany came when a collector showed the brand s executives one of Rieussec s original timepieces Thus began a long process to devise and build a movement based on the principles set out by Nicolas Rieussec combining writing and time This enterprise aided by the incorporation into Montblanc of Minerva a renowned movement manufacturer came to fruition in 2008 when Montblanc unveiled its first Nicolas Rieussec watch As with the original rather than have the chronograph hand rotate around the dial the seconds and minutes dials rotate under a fixed hand An haute horlogerie movement In what is the two hundredth anniversary year of Nicolas Rieussec s invention Montblanc is presenting a Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Limited Edition 200 inspired by the functions and gold colours of the royal clockmaker s first chronograph The lower portion of the dial which is decorated with barleycorn guillochage contains the two discs for the chronograph one of which rotates once in 60 seconds and the other in 30 minutes An applied blue double ended hand is set between the two in a nod to the inking system of Rieussec s original Hours and minutes are shown on an off centre dial at 12 o clock with Roman numerals on a lacquered hour chapter A third skeletonised hand corresponds to the second time zone with the addition of a day night indication An aperture for the date is positioned at 6 o clock The same care and attention to detail has been given to the decoration of the MB R200 movement visible through the sapphire back of the 44 80mm case in steel The oscillating weight which is finished with a barleycorn design and engraved with the date of September 1st 1821 skims the hand chamfered bridges which are decorated with C tes de Gen ve The construction of the movement is on a par in particular the use of a column wheel and vertical clutch mechanism for the chronograph which by reducing friction eliminates stuttering by the chronograph hand when started Twin barrels provide three days of power reserve Travellers will appreciate the possibility to rapidly set the date and the hour without stopping the minutes hand In all a fine piece of watchmaking and a tribute to ingenuity Christophe Roulet MONTBL ANC NICOLAS MATHIEU RIEUSSEC ON SEP TEMBER 1ST 1821 NICOL AS MONTB L ANC IN HOUSE MB R 20 0 CALIBRE TH I S STAR LEGACY I S DR IVEN BY WE AR TH I S SYSTEM PR E VENTS THE ROTATI NG D I SC S FROM JOLTI NG WHEN MATHIEU RIEUSSEC 1781 1866 THE SIXTH CLOCKMAKER BY APPOINTMENT TO THE IN HOUSE M B R200 MONOPUSHER CHRONOGR APH CALIBRE WITH AUTO THE CHRONOGR APH IS STAR TED THE MOVEM ENT IS REGU L ATED BY A L ARGE THE KING OF FR ANCE WAS ONE OF THOSE AT TENDING A HORSE R ACE ON THE M ATI C WI ND I NG E VERY TH I NG ABOUT TH I S M OVEM ENT HAS BEEN DES IGNED SCR E W BAL ANCE M E ASUR I NG 10 M M I N D IAM E TER T WI N BAR R ELS STOR I NG CHAMPS DE MARS IN PARIS HE WAS THERE TO TRY OUT AN INVENTION FOR WHICH W I TH B E AUT Y AN D EFF I C I ENCY I N M I N D AS ON E WOU LD E XPECT FRO M A 72 HOURS OF P OWER R ESERVE M A I NTA I N A STE ADY SUPP LY OF P OWER FOR HE WOULD BE GR ANTED THE FOLLOWING YE AR A FIVE YE AR PATENT FOR A CHRONOGR APH OF TH I S QUALIT Y THE M ONOPUSHER M ECHAN I S M I S C ON THE TI M EKEEP I NG FUNCTION I NC LUD I NG WHEN THE CHRONOGR APH I S I N TIMEKEEPER OR COUNTER OF DISTANCE COVERED OR AS ITS INVENTOR PRE TROLLED BY A COLUMN WHEEL THE CONNECTION BE T WEEN THE GE AR TR AIN OPER ATION FERRED TO CALL IT A SECONDS CHRONOGR APH ACCUR ATE TO ONE FIF TH OF AND THE CHRONOGR APH WHEELS I S A LTER NATELY ENG AGED AND D I SEN A SECOND RIEUSSEC S DE VISE MARKED THE BEGINNING AND END OF A ME AS G AG ED BY A V ER T I CA L C OU P L I NG WH I C H F U N CT I O N S A L M OST W I THOU T URED INTERVAL ON DEMAND BY DEPOSITING A DROP OF INK ON A ROTATING DIAL BIG BANG UNICO Vibrantly coloured and patented yellow ceramic case In house UNICO chronograph movement Limited to 250 pieces

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34 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS A stroke of genius Breguet this year celebrates the 220th anniversary of the tourbillon Abraham Louis Breguet s ingenious invention Executed with discretion at first this precision mechanism has gone on to conquer Planet Watch Ingenious indispensable fascinating anyone with an interest in mechanical watches has something to say about the tourbillon Without this complication time measurement would not have the same face Not only because of the mechanical ballet this spinning mechanism performs on the watch s dial but also for the giant steps in precision made possible by its invention Exactly ten years ago the International Chronometry Competition in Le Locle Switzerland which didn t then distinguish between different categories of movement awarded the top three rankings to three tourbillon calibres The makers of these winning timepieces might well have said a quiet thank you to Abraham Louis Breguet 1747 1823 the inventor of this regulating mechanism for pocket watches These days one needn t look far to find a tourbillon a complication that the vast majority of fine watch manufacturers have brought under their roof However this hasn t always been the case For a long time constructing this intricate mechanism patented in 1801 proved a challenge too great for most Breguet himself came up against numerous obstacles before he was able to demonstrate the value of his invention as Breguet the brand reminds us Through study and observation Breguet had perfected his understanding of the factors especially those affecting the escapement that might impair the precision of a timepiece Realising that he would not be able to solve single handedly all the problems associated with the expansion of metals and the stability of oils Breguet instead worked around these issues He compensated for the effects of the laws of physics that affect the inner workings of a watch and therefore its rate regularity Unable to alter the law of gravity he chose to tame its effects Who but Breguet could have proposed a project that required such a solid grasp of science as well as an optimistic streak A legacy beyond compare The watchmaker s determination and optimism prevailed The mechanism he invented encloses the movement s regulating organ balance and spring and distribution organ escape wheel and lever inside a mobile cage which by rotating these parts through different positions averages out the variations in rate caused by the effects of gravity An ingenious concept that would prove far from easy to implement The idea for the tourbillon probably germinated in Breguet s mind while in Switzerland between 1793 and 1795 but it was only six years later that he was awarded a patent and another six years before sales slowly began Breguet had likely underestimated the difficulties of fine tuning this new type of regulator another result of his habitual optimism Nor did the considerable expense and sacrifices that he mentioned in his letter to the Minister of the Interior concerning the patent on the tourbillon end in 1801 It took Abraham Louis Breguet more than ten years to develop his extremely complex invention and make it reliable Ultimately Breguet and his staff produced 40 working tourbillons between 1796 and 1829 plus nine that were never completed As the repository for this unparalleled innovation in watchmaking the House of Breguet continues its exploration of an invention that is as much art as science by renewing its interpretation of this fascinating and complex mechanism These remarkable executions include a fusee and chain tourbillon with a silicon balance spring with Breguet overcoil reference 7047 a grande complication with perpetual calendar and an equation of time indication on a sapphire disc that reveals the tourbillon reference 5887 and the double tourbillon mounted on the rotating movement plate of the Quai de l Horloge reference 5345 released late 2020 Equally noteworthy are the fabulously elegant extra thin versions with automatic winding reference 5367 or with automatic winding and skeletonised reference 5395 Imagine the complexity of housing a tourbillon in a movement a mere 3 millimetres high Consummate watchmaking indeed Christophe Roulet BREGUET TOURBILLON NO 1176 THIS BREGUET MONTRE GARDE TEMPS TOUR BREGUET TOURBILLON EXTRA PLAT 5377 FIRST PRESENTED IN 2013 THIS EXTR A BREGUET CLASSIQUE DOUBLE TOURBILLON 5345 QUAI DE L HORLOGE THIS VIRTU BILLON NO 1176 A GOLD POCKE T CHRONOME TER WITH GUILLOCH DIAL IS THIN CL ASSIQUE TOURBILLON WITH AUTOMATIC WINDING IS A COMPLEX BEAUT Y OSO WATCH IS FITTED WITH CALIBRE 588N ONE OF THE MOST COMPLEX MOVEMENTS E XCEP TIONAL IN MANY WAYS IT INCORPOR ATES A FOUR MINUTE TOURBILLON THE OFF CENTRE TOURBI LLON CAGE IN LIGHT WEIGHT TITANIUM ENCLOSES BREGUET HAS EVER MADE TWO INDEPENDENT TOURBILLONS EACH COMPLETING A WITH BREGUE T S CHAPPEMENT NATUREL DOUBLE RUNNING SECONDS WITH A BREGUE T BAL ANCE FIT TED WITH A SILICON BAL ANCE SPRING BE ATING AT FULL ROTATION IN ONE MINUTE ARE CONNECTED BY A CENTRAL DIFFERENTIAL WHICH STOP SECONDS AND A POWER RESERVE IT WAS SOLD FOR 4 600 FR ANCS ON 28 800 VIBR ATIONS HOUR A PATENTED H IGH ENERGY BARREL PROVIDES ROTATES THE ENTIRE MOVEMENT ONCE EVERY 12 HOURS HOURS ARE SHOWN BY THE FEBRUARY 12 1809 TO COUNT POTOCKI IN ST PETERSBURG THE COUNT S COAT 80 HOURS OF POWER RESERVE BREGUET HAS POSITIONED THE PL ATINUM ROTOR TOURBILLON BAR COMPLETED BY A CLASSIC CENTRAL MINUTES HAND AN ENGRAV OF ARMS IS ENGR AVED ON THE BACK OF THE CASE ON THE PERIPHERY OF THE MOVEMENT THUS PRESERVING THE SLIM PROFILE OF ING ON THE CASE BACK SHOWS THE HOUSE THAT ABRAHAM LOUIS BREGUET PUR THE MOVEMENT 3MM AND THE CASE 7MM CHASED ON QUAI DE L HORLOGE IN PARIS

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36 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 37 Let there be light Time is one of life s most valuable commodities made all the more precious by the combined expertise of the watchmakers gemmologists and gem setters at Rolex This year the brand presents new gem set versions of the Day Date 36 and the Lady Datejust o Marie de Pimodan When watchmaking the endless pursuit of precision meets the eternal beauty of diamonds time takes on a precious guise illustrated by the latest gem set creations from Rolex Immediately recognisable by the elegant silhouette of their Oyster case the Day Date 36 and the Lady Datejust are mechanical jewels that keep track of time through the prism of precious stones Diamond delights Rolex s gemmologists and gem setters bring their expertise to the watchmaker s craft working side by side to create extraordinary watches that dazzle as much for their precision mechanisms as for their sophisticated beauty Rolex operates a dedicated facility in Ch ne Bourg a short drive from Geneva city centre Home to the dial manufacturing gemmology and gem setting divisions this is where the precious gems that formed billions of years ago in the depths of Earth reveal their full splendour Before anything else the stones must be sourced Rolex demands flawless quality whether for coloured gems rubies emeralds and sapphires or diamonds For the latter the all important reference is the 4Cs for Cut Colour Clarity and Carat Together they determine the quality of a stone and its value A rough diamond is formed under conditions of intense heat and pressure revealing its true beauty only when cut to ideal proportions For a diamond to display brilliance by reflecting light outwards and fire by scattering light into a rainbow of colours it must be cut to exact proportions and its facets precisely angled Clarity is determined by the absence of impurities For Rolex s gemmologists a diamond is declared flawless when it contains no inclusions visible under 10x magnification Colour is another marker of quality The Gemmological Institute of America grades diamond colour on a scale from D to Z Rolex uses certified master stones to select only colourless diamonds graded D to G Tests are conducted using state of the art equipment including tools that have been specifically developed by the brand to guarantee that the precious stones Rolex selects for its watches are perfectly uniform and of the highest quality Patience and precision The diamonds that meet Rolex s standards are entrusted to the gem setter who has the delicate task of setting them on the watch This demands an expertise passed between generations and acquired through years of training and experience as well as an instinctive sense of detail and reams of patience Every gesture must be executed with the utmost precision a balancing act of calm and confidence in which eye hand and tool work in harmony Boxes of precious stones line up on the workbench patiently waiting to embellish the dials cases bezels and bracelets of Rolex watches Beside them an array of beaders burnishers gravers and tweezers that will be used to set each individual stone according to a layout which the designers and gem setters will have previously prepared Having selected the appropriate tool the gem setter must then determine the correct angle and apply just the right amount of pressure to gently lift fragments of gold position the gem then secure it in place not just once but dozens of times to achieve a perfectly even surface where each stone aligns with its neighbour sitting at the exact same height and angle This is a feat in itself compounded by the infinitely tiny variations in the size of the stones At Rolex tolerances never exceed two hundredths of a millimetre a quarter the width of a human hair This precision mirrors that of the in house movement that beats inside the embellished case Once every stone is in place the gold is polished to a sheen This step is repeated as many as three thousand times for certain diamond paved dials giving each piece a brilliance beyond compare The result can be admired in the gem set watches that Rolex is introducing this year Sheer brilliance Proposed in 18k yellow gold 18k white gold or 18k Everose gold the Oyster Perpetual Day Date 36 sparkles with 254 brilliant cut diamonds on the lugs lug caps and sides of the 36mm case and a further 52 brilliant cut diamonds on the bezel On the dial 450 diamonds make a dazzling backdrop for hour markers and numerals in shades of coral turquoise or burgundy that match the colour of the strap Another showcase for Rolex s expertise in precious stones the Oyster Perpetual Lady Datejust also comes dressed in diamonds Its case is a symbol of elegance with 158 brilliant cut diamonds set on the sides and lugs while the dial is a precious carpet of 291 brilliant cut diamonds Crowned with a bezel paved with 44 brilliant cut diamonds the 26mm case is sculpted from 18k yellow gold and worn on a President bracelet laden with 596 diamonds Thanks to skills and expertise developed in house at Rolex time takes flight on jewelled wings ROLE X OYSTER PERPETUAL DATE DATE 36 ROLE X PRESENTS THREE GEM SE T COLOURFUL VERSIONS OF THE OYSTER PERPE TUAL DAY DATE 36 MADE FROM 18K YELLOW GOLD 18K WHITE GOLD OR 18K E VEROSE THEY COME SWATHED IN DIAMONDS AND ARE FIT TED WITH A POLISHED LE ATHER STR AP THE OYSTER CASE IS ENTIRELY SE T WITH 254 BRILLIANT CUT DIAMONDS ON THE LUGS LUG CAPS AND CASE SIDES THE BE ZEL IS ALSO ADORNED WITH 52 BRILLIANT CUT DIAMONDS THE DIAL PAVED WITH 450 DIAMONDS FE ATURES HOUR MARKERS AND ROMAN NUMERALS VI AND IX IN ENAMEL ROLE X OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY DATEJUST ROLEX PRESENTS ITS OYSTER PERPETUAL L ADY DATE JUST IN 18K YELLOW GOLD SET WITH DIAMONDS 158 BRILLIANT CUT DIAMONDS ON THE LUGS LUG CAPS AND CASE SIDES 44 BRILLIANT CUT DIAMONDS ON THE BE ZEL AND 596 BRILLIANT CUT DIAMONDS ON THE PRESIDENT BR ACELE T THE DIAL WITH ITS CARPET OF 291 DIAMONDS FE ATURES ELEGANT ROMAN NUMERALS IN 18K YELLOW GOLD WITH A BL ACK FINISH

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38 WATCH YOUR TIME RUBRIQUE JEWELLERY WATCH YOUR TIME 39 Jewelled journeys o Marie de Pimodan All jewels are intoxicating Paul luard 1895 1952 An iconic bag transformed into a bracelet a young boy s determination echoed in a necklace fit for a queen galaxies metamorphosed into fabulous jewels these Fine Jewellery collections prove the power of imagination L o u i s Vu i t t o n Jewellery can be an invitation for the imagination to wander a journey through time infused with the heritage and attendant legends of the grand jewellery houses Take the example of the Fine Jewellery collection that Louis Vuitton has created in honour of the two hundredth anniversary of the birth of its founder Bravery the collection s name assembles 90 spectacular pieces that chart Louis Vuitton s extraordinary destiny from the early days to the present The collection is presented as chapters one of which evokes the voyage undertaken on foot by a barely teenage Louis from his home in the eastern Jura region all the way to Paris where he had hopes of earning his living as a box maker and layetier or luggage packer The brand has captured this first step in its founder s journey with a stunning diamond and emerald necklace whose colours are an allegory for the countryside Louis would have crossed on the road to little did he know fame The belief that the world is there to be discovered is a guiding principle for Cartier s jewellery repertoire The Udyana necklace revisits the red blue and green colour palette of the Tutti Frutti style celebrated LOUIS VUIT TON BR AVERY AN E VOCATION OF LOUIS VUIT TON S JOURNEY ON FOOT FROM HIS NATIVE JUR A TO PARIS THIS SENSUAL PIECE SE TS THE FINEST COLOMBIAN EMER ALDS AGAINST THREE ROWS OF PL ATINUM YELLOW GOLD AND WHITE GOLD FULLY PAVED WITH DIAMONDS THE GEMS ARE SE T USING FOUR DIFFERENT TECHNIQUES FOR A COMPOSITION THAT TOOK OVER 1 600 HOURS TO COMPLE TE CARTIER CLASH OPPOSITES AT TR ACT FOR THE JEWELS IN THE CL ASH DE CARTIER COLLECTION PRECIOUS BE ADS MINGLE WITH SPIKES AND STUDS AS ON THIS RING IN PINK GOLD AND ONY X by Cartier since the 1920s A profusion of ribbed and gadrooned emerald beads entwined with rubies and sapphires carved into flower and leaf motifs it recollects Jacques Cartier s voyage to India in the 1910s where he was introduced to the gem cutting techniques that the country s artisans had perfected during the seventeenth century for the Mughal emperors a technique Jacques took home to Paris opening up new horizons of creativity for the firm Under the stars Van Cleef Arpels leaves behind terrestrial wonders and launches into a journey to the stars returning with dreamy representations of comets and planets Dubbed Sous les toiles une r verie c leste the collection comprises 150 pieces Distant galaxies are a

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40 WATCH YOUR TIME JEWELLERY FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 41 BVLGARI MAGNIFICA AMONG THE 350 CRE ATIONS THAT MAKE UP THE MAGNIFICA COLLECTION THE PRODIGIOUS COLOR NECKL ACE IN PINK GOLD IS ONE OF THE MOST SPECTACUL AR FIVE E XCEP TIONAL CABOCHON CUT GEMSTONES AN AME THYST A CITRINE A RUBELLITE A TOPA Z AND A PINK QUARTZ 288 CAR ATS IN TOTAL ARE SINUOUSLY INTERWOVEN WITH PAV DIAMONDS AND GREEN TOURMALINES recurrent theme for the Parisian house whose ledgers record items depicting stars and planets from more than a century ago A journey can also be to the heart of a jeweller s history and heritage At Herm s the Kelly bag lends its inimitable chic and iconic silhouette to the Kellymorphose collection of jewellery transforming the functional into the ornamental in one deliciously bold step Chopard leads us along the road to sustainable luxury with fresh iterations of its Ice Cube collection in ethical gold As for Bvlgari the Italian house invites us to discover its sources of inspiration including Artemisia Gentileschi a celebrated seventeenth century Baroque painter whose spectacular use of colour is behind the Prodigious Color necklace one of the 350 masterpieces of fine jewellery and watchmaking that compose the Magnifica collection an odyssey into the flamboyant universe of the most rare and precious stones Magical N 5 QEELIN YU YI WE AR IT AS A LUCK Y CHARM THIS PE TITE YU YI RING BY QEELIN IS ONE OF LIFE S Chanel s No5 fragrance is 100 years old and the house has imagined a 123 piece fine jewellery collection in its honour The director of Chanel s Fine Jewellery Creation Studio Patrice Legu reau talks about the inspiration behind this Collection N 5 LIT TLE PLE ASURES JADE AND DIAMONDS ARE DR APED IN PINK GOLD HERM S KELLYMORPHOSE IS NOTHING SACRED HERM S HAS IMAGINED A TONGUE IN CHEEK RE VISIT OF THE HARDWARE ON ITS CL ASSIC KELLY BAG IN THE FORM OF ULTR A CONTEMPOR ARY JEWELS THE KELLY BR ACELE T SE TS 465 BL ACK SPINELS 54 46 CAR ATS ON FIVE ROWS OF PINK GOLD VAN CLEEF ARPELS SOUS LES TOILES UNE R VERIE C LESTE THE PARISIAN JEWELLER TR AVELS INTO THE COSMOS FOR A MESMERISING 150 PIECE FINE JEWELLERY COLLECTION SCULP TED FROM WHITE AND YELLOW GOLD THE ELLEN BR ACELE T IS FULLY SE T WITH EMER ALDS SAPPHIRES BL ACK SPINELS AND DIAMONDS THE MA JESTIC CENTREPIECE IS A COLOMBIAN EMER ALD WEIGHING 9 03 CAR ATS CHOPARD ICE CUBE HIGH JEWELLERY THE ICE CUBE TURNS ITS USUAL GEOME TRY Coco Chanel imagined it Ernest Beaux created it and Marilyn Monroe famously wore it Introduced in 1921 as an exclusive series of 100 bottles Chanel No5 fragrance would conquer the world with its powdery floral accords and at the same time earthy freshness The angular shape of the bottle and the chiselled stopper were a radical departure from the baroque fancy favoured by the likes of Lalique or Baccarat In 1932 Gabrielle Chanel again took le tout Paris by surprise with her first and only high jewellery collection Bijoux de Diamants which she had crafted in diamonds and platinum an extravagance no one but she would have dared in such economically chaotic times In both instances we can see the same creative verve There was never any question that the Parisian house should celebrate this anniversary in conventional fashion The most famous fragrance in the world warranted an entire Fine Jewellery collection in its honour as Patrice Legu reau explains I imagined this collection as an immersion an exploration of the soul and the secrets of N 5 I asked myself how we could tell the story of this fragrance in a way that wasn t purely literal so as to convey the magic and mystery of N 5 We also wanted to work metal and gemstones in ways that would express the fluidity of the perfume The dialectic of the collection quickly became apparent transform an icon of perfumery into an icon of jewellery collection is the shape of the bottle with its stopper inspired by the contours of Place Vend me in Paris Hidden or revealed the bottle represents the archetype of N 5 in the same way the diamond symbolises fine jewellery The two are brought together on a spectacular piece that is also emblematic of the collection the 55 55 necklace The centrepiece of this one ofa kind creation is a diamond that was custom cut to weigh exactly 55 55 carats Truly an exploit The house of Chanel is bringing these two worlds together by celebrating the centennial of one through the magnificence of the other Fragrance and jewellery have much in common says Patrice Legu reau director of Chanel s Fine Jewellery Creation Studio Beyond the fact that both are worn against a woman s skin they embody Chanel s values of boldness and excellence When in 1921 Gabrielle Chanel imagined a perfume for women with the scent of a woman she was already looking ahead to the fragrances of today Her Bijoux de Diamants collection from 1932 invented new ways to wear jewellery She encouraged women to make these precious jewels part of their wardrobe A collection of unprecedented size Patrice Legu reau sat down with brush and ink and began by illustrating the force the femininity and the incredible richness of the jus with five emblems that have forged N 5 s identity the stopper the bottle the number the flowers and the sillage which is the invisible trail this olfactive explosion leaves in its wake And to bring them to life different cuts of stones like fireworks accompanied by a cascade of drop shaped gems and a cluster of flowers like an infinite constellation as a nod to the 1932 Bijoux de Diamants collection The one signature element that runs throughout the There is nonetheless more to Collection N 5 than this pi ce de r sistance The 123 different designs that make up the collection are the reflection of a bold and powerful creative act for which Chanel has deployed treasures of imagination We have used pear cuts to suggest drops of perfume with amber and powder coloured stones such as citrine and imperial topaz which are also supremely feminine The ribbon motif an allusion to couture Gabrielle s first profession brings a touch of sensuality to the number 5 We have taken particular care to create jewellery that feels comfortable and supple like a mist of perfume This has to be the most personal most intimate Fine Jewellery collection we have ever made using gold gemstones creativity and expertise to pay tribute to the N 5 fragrance Eric Dumatin CARTIER UDYANA UDYANA IS THE SANSKRIT WORD FOR GARDEN UPSIDE DOWN AND PL AYS AROUND WITH THE IN THIS CASE A LUXURIANT GARDEN WHOSE BLOOMS ARE RIBBED ASYMME TRY OF T WO RINGS CONNECTED BY EMER ALDS CARVED SAPPHIRES AND RUBIES INCLUDING A A PRINCESS CUT SOLITAIRE THE FAIRMINED CHANEL 55 55 NECKLACE THE 55 55 NECKLACE CAPTURES THE ESSENCE OF CHANEL S CHANEL N 5 FR AGR ANCE FOR THE ONE HUNDREDTH ANNIVERSARY OF CHANEL S CHANEL ETERNAL N 5 NECKLACE DARING CREATIVIT Y NOBLE MATERIALS AND REMARK ABLE 67 81 CAR AT ENGR AVED RUBY FROM MOZ AMBIQUE YELLOW GOLD FOR THE RING WAS MELTED N 5 FRAGRANCE IN A TRULY EXCEPTIONAL STONE A 55 55 CARAT DIAMOND THE ROUGH N 5 FR AGR ANCE PATRICE LEGU RE AU DIRECTOR OF THE CHANEL FINE JEWEL ACCENTUATED FEMININITY AN INTIMATE CHAR ACTER AND A POWERFUL TIMELESS THEY ARE ASSEMBLED IN A NECKL ACE IN THE TUT TI FRUT TI IN CHOPARD S OWN FOUNDRY WAS CUT TO CHANEL S INSTRUCTIONS NOT TO OBTAIN THE BIGGEST POSSIBLE STONE LERY CRE ATION STUDIO IMAGINED COLLECTION N 5 THE FIRST AND ONLY FINE NESS COLLECTION N 5 EXPRESSES ALL THE HALLMARKS OF THE ICONIC N 5 FR A ST YLE WHICH CARTIER IMAGINED IN THE 1920S INSPIRED BUT A PERFECT OCTAGONAL DIAMOND WEIGHING 55 55 CARATS THE HARMONIOUS JEWELLERY COLLECTION TO BE INSPIRED BY A FR AGR ANCE ONE HUNDRED AND GR ANCE IN ONE HUNDRED AND T WENT Y THREE SUPPLE AND ARCHITECTUR AL BY THE GEM CARVING TECHNIQUES THAT WERE SHAPE IN AN EMERALD CUT THE SYMBOLIC 55 55 CARAT WEIGHT AND THE D FLAW T WENT Y THREE CRE ATIONS BRILLIANTLY INTERPRE T THE E TERNAL MYSTERY OF JEWELS CHANEL SHARES ITS VISION OF THE CONTR AST BET WEEN THE CRISP FAVOURITES OF THE INDIAN MUGHAL DYNAST Y LESS QUALITY OF THE STONE IN AN 18K WHITE GOLD MOUNT SET WITH 104 ROUND N 5 E XPRESSING E ACH OF ITS FACE TS FROM THE BOT TLE TO THE SILL AGE GEOMETRY OF THE BOTTLE AND THE SENSUALITY OF THE FR AGR ANCE CHANEL S DIAMONDS AND 42 BAGUETTE DIAMONDS TESTIFY TO CHANEL S PERFECTIONISM CREATION STUDIO HAS TRANSLATED THE FRAGRANCE INTO CONFECTIONS OF RARE GEMSTONES SUCH AS THIS ETERNAL N 5 NECKLACE IN WHITE GOLD AND DIAMONDS

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CLASSIC WATCH YOUR TIME 43 Staying power o Paolo De Vecchi Be simple artfully Nicolas Boileau 1636 1711 A classic watch represents the best possible outcome among permutations of simplicity authenticity and continuity Which is all the encouragement brands need to go vintage The classics by definition never go out of style The books we read the clothes we wear how we decorate our homes anything that escapes fashion s fleeting grasp constitutes a sound investment both in taste and money While there will always be exceptions to this rule the classics are never capricious They are a reassuring symbol of excellence that need no further explanation One could say they represent the best possible outcome among permutations of simplicity authenticity and continuity The classics exist not in the impulse of the moment They are icons that will stay relevant for years to come if not for ever S h x p i r H u a n g w w w a d b a g e n c y c o m This concept applies to all areas of human activity including watchmaking A classic watch is infused with the design characteristics of the era in which it was made Today we are more likely to refer to it as vintage The etymology of the word give us a clue as to why vintage is such a success Derived from the Old French vendeignes from the Latin vindemia vintage originally referred to fine wines In exactly the same way that some wines as they age acquire qualities that enhance their value certain other objects gain in desirability over time It s a phenomenon that has become written into the watch industry and its history CHANEL J12 ELECTRO CHANEL S ELECTRO CAPSULE COLLECTION PL AYS ON THE ENERGY LOOK AND FEEL OF 1990S ELECTRO CULTURE THE CONTR AST BE T WEEN BL ACK AND COLOUR IS CENTR AL TO THIS STORY AS COLOUR ILLUMINATES BL ACK AND INVERSELY BL ACK BRINGS OUT COLOUR THIS LIMITED EDITION OF 1 255 PIECES IS CASED IN HIGHLY RESISTANT BL ACK CER AMIC AND STEEL WITH A SAPPHIRE BACK THE NEON R AINBOW INDICATORS AROUND THE UNIDIRECTIONAL ROTATING BE ZEL IN STEEL MATCH THE COLOURS OF THE NUMER ALS ON THE BL ACK L ACQUER DIAL THIS 38MM AUTOMATIC WATCH IS WATER RESISTANT TO 200 ME TRES In the beginning The vintage that concerns us here has nothing to do with old second hand or even collector s items Rather it refers to the design language of a given era even a particular maker that brands seek to implement using modern production methods One could say it is the classical canon adapted to a contemporary environment The phenom enon has swept the entire watch industry regardless of place

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44 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 45 of production or price point Nor is it new Brands have often given their most technically advanced products the characteristics of one of their historic or iconic models In fact entire collections have formed around a landmark model the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso this year celebrating its ninetieth anniversary Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak Patek Philippe s Nautilus the Omega Speedmaster the Monaco and the Carrera at TAG Heuer and the Seiko Prospex to name just some Travel in style In the space of twenty years the Louis Vuitton Tambour has imposed both its style and character with all the confidence of a watch in the grand tradition all the while adapting to the various facets of time measurement Gem set or smartwatch with or without complications the Tambour has continued to build its legacy since it was launched in 2002 It reappears this year as the Street Diver a high end sports watch that Louis Vuitton promises can be worn pretty much anywhere on the beach in the office for a workout or clubbing Robust and edgy with a decidedly sporty outlook the Tambour Street Diver brings together all the requirements of a traditional dive watch while retaining the colourful creative unconventional style elements that have always been central to the House says Louis Vuitton in its presentation of a timepiece that fits perfectly with its travel heritage The Tambour Carpe Diem takes us on an altogether different journey into the past and a time of automata and memento mori sober reminders that we are not eternal Two years in development the Carpe Diem s dial springs to life on demand with a moving snake and skull automata such as this are known as jacquemarts in watchmaking parlance Michel Navas is a master watchmaker at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton Our aim he says was to get off the beaten track We wanted to bring to the jacquemart our vision of the twenty first century with all the energy and creativity that has been characteristic of our brand since it began producing watches in 2002 And what a vision it is The Tambour Carpe Diem incorporates four complications jumping hours retrograde minutes power reserve display and the mechanism for the four automata There is also the additional challenge of producing a mechanical movement that is powerful enough to smoothly operate all these functions which says Navas have never been put into one watch before E D Just as we need to distinguish between vintage and second hand we should also take care not to confuse vintage with reissues products that use contemporar y manufacturing methods to identically replicate a past model A detour via the automotive industry provides a good example Morgan Motor Company s Plus is vir tually the same car as the classic 1950s model but with the latest features and specifications Coming back to watches Panerai has made the production of technically avant garde versions of historic timepieces its recipe for success ever since its takeover by the Richemont Group and an initial series of Radiomir and Luminor that were identical matches for the instruments the brand supplied to Italian Navy frogmen in the 1940s Today the Florentine brand has entered a new stage in its development with innovative watches mainly chronographs alongside models with a distinctly vintage appearance One of the latest a Luminor in bronze with a blue dial is an example of an established model being given a fresh aesthetic Reassuring Updated evocations of a classic watch can also be seen at Rolex and Cartier this year Both have transformed iconic styles with versions that nonetheless leave no doubt as to their provenance At Rolex the model in question is the Oyster Perpetual Explorer first released in 1953 This year s iteration has been scaled back to the original model s 36mm diameter Still in steel it surprises with the addition of a yellow gold bezel and I Unmistakably Herm s Herm s has made a grand entrance in the men s sports watch segment with a brilliant demonstration of its creative approach to measuring time Introducing the H08 between nothing and infinity II Herm s entered the watchmaking business 43 years ago with the same philosophy of being among the best but with a touch of fantasy says Laurent Dordet CEO of Herm s Horloger We ve developed our own vision of time and enjoy playing around with the concept opening parentheses coaxing it into a different shape like something material Illustrating this approach during Watches and Wonders Geneva in April the Parisian firm took over B timent des Forces Motrices a magnificent nineteenth century industrial building by the lake where it staged an exhibition around the H08 Curated by two artists it explored the Herm s approach to time through sculpture and video science and creativity Opposites attract The H08 isn t short on paradox itself In the brand s own words While clearly reflecting a long term vision of time the H08 is equally at home with fast paced living Contemporary yet timeless it has its finger firmly on the pulse of modern man keeping step with every breath and every wave of excitement every moment of rest and burst of speed It is an object that strikes a balance fostering dialogue between opposites and contrasts In more down to earth terms Herm s has created an all terrain watch according to Philippe Delhotal Creative Director at Herm s Horloger The H08 is light and robust for daily wear It s urban and contemporary a sports watch that is embedded in the men s universe at Herm s Although given its variable geometry I can easily picture it on a woman s wrist As always Herm s has shown its acute sense of detail with flowing lines curves and angular details inserting a circular dial into a case with softened edges Described by Herm s as serious and sensual robust and delicate matte and glossy the H08 has been given its own dial font that chimes with the watch in particular the zero and the eight which echo the shape of the case Powered by the in house H1837 automatic movement displaying hours minutes seconds and date the H08 comes in three versions each with a cushion shaped case and screw down crown The first is ready for action with a graphene filled composite case with a ceramic bezel on a rubber strap The second is in black DLC coated titanium on a blue or black webbing and black or orange rubber strap The third is in satin brushed titanium with a titanium bracelet Herm s is already looking to add to this time only model with variations that will host complications although the first priority has been to establish this new design in the men s segment which currently accounts for a quarter of Herm s watch sales Given its strength of character the H08 should help reset the balance particularly in view of the growing interest that Herm s has noted in its men s watches over the past two years With the introduction of the H08 the Eric Dumatin best is yet to come Few watchmakers can claim to have made a signature watch from the moment of its conception And by signature watch we mean one that captures the attributes of a brand so fully that it becomes an extension of it The H08 is one such watch Introduced at this year s Watches and Wonders it wears the badge of its origins with pride It also fits the description of a men s watch that can keep pace with an active lifestyle though as always Herm s meets the brief using a vocabulary that is all its own III IIII Considering this was an all digital fair such a strong physical presence confirmed Herm s as a brand that goes against the grain LOUIS VUIT TON TAMBOUR STREET DIVER CONTR ARY TO APPE AR ANCES THE SWISS I G R A N D S E I KO H ER ITAGE CO LLECT IO N VI LLERE T COLLECTION B L ANCPAI N S NATIVE I I I I CHOPAR D L U C QF JUBILEE TH IS ANN I MADE TAMBOUR STREE T DIVER HAS ALL THE AT TRIBUTES OF A BONA FIDE DIVE WATCH F O R T H E 14 0T H A N N I V E R S A RY O F S E I KO VILL AGE OF VILLERE T LENDS ITS NAME TO THE V ERSA RY WATC H R ELE AS ED F O R TH E 25TH SCRE W DOWN CROWN 100 M E TRE DEP TH R ATING INNER ROTATING BE ZEL AND TH IS R EM AR K AB LE GR AND SEI KO CAP TURES MOST CL ASSIC COLLECTION FROM THE BR AND ANNIVERSARY OF CHOPARD S MOVEMENT MAN SUPER LUMINOVA COATING TH E S P I R I T AN D V I S I ON OF TH E C O M PANY S III LONGINES SPIRIT LONGINES IMAGINED ITS U FACT U R I N G FAC I L I T Y I N F LEU R I ER EN CA P LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR CARPE DIEM THE TAMBOUR CARPE DIEM SHOWS TIME ON DE FOUNDER THE DIAL DESIGN REPRESENTS SPIRIT COLLECTION IN THE SAME VEIN AS THE SUL ATES THE BR AND S FUNDAMENTAL VALUES MAND WHEN THE SNAKE SHAPED PUSHER IS ACTIVATED THE SNAKE ON THE DIAL LIF TS THE RINGS THAT DE VELOP AS A TREE GROWS PRECISION INSTRUMENTS THAT ACCOMPANIED OF CER TI F I ED QUA LIT Y TECHN I CA L PER FOR ITS HE AD TO RE VE AL AN OPENING IN THE MIDDLE OF THE SKULL FOR THE JUMPING T H E D E L I CAT E O RG A N I C L I N ES A P P E A R TO THE PIONEERS WHO SE T OUT TO CONQUER THE MANCE AND AESTHE TIC REFINEMENT IT MEE TS HERM S H 08 WHILE CLE ARLY REFLECTING A LONG TERM VISION OF TIME THE HE RM S H 08 POWERED BY THE M ECHANICAL AUTOMATIC MANUFACTURE BUT TERFLY CL ASP T WO OTHER VERSIONS THE FIRST IN MAT T BL ACK DLC HOURS DISPL AY AND THE TIP OF ITS TAIL FLICKS ACROSS THE MINUTE SCALE UNDER STRE TCH BACK TO THE VERY ROOTS OF SEIKO SK Y THE SE A AND L AND THE WATCHES IN THE THE REQUIREMENTS OF THE CONTR LE OFFICIEL H08 IS EQUALLY AT HOME WITH FAST PACED LIVING SERIOUS AND SENSUAL HERM S H1837 MOVEMENT THE HERM S H08 LINE COMES AS THREE L ARGE COATED TITANIUM AND THE SECOND IN SATIN BRUSHED TITANIUM FR AME A NE ATH THE SANDGL ASS THAT ME ASURES POWER RESERVE ME ANWHILE THE SKULL I I B L A N C PA I N V I L L E R E T E X T R A P L AT E E COLLECTION BENEFIT FROM ADVANCED TECH SUISSE DES CHRONOM TRES AS WELL AS THE ROBUST AND DELICATE MAT T AND GLOSSY IT IS DEFINED BY ITS INHERENTLY CUSHION SHAPED MODELS WITH A SCREW DOWN CROWN THE FIRST HAS A BL ACK NICKEL COATED DIAL AND ARE TE AMED WITH A BLUE OR BL ACK WEBBING WINKS TO RE VE AL A LOUIS VUIT TON MONOGR AM FLOWER IN ONE OF ITS SOCKE TS AT BL ANCPAIN HAS RELE ASED A BOUTIQUE EDITION NOLOGY FOR MOVEM ENTS WHOSE E X TREM E QUALIT FLEURIER L ABEL ONE OF THE INDUS VARIED NATURE LIKE THE HERM S MAN HIMSELF THE HERM S H08 WATCH IS GR APHENE FILLED COMPOSITE CASE WITH A SATIN BRUSHED AND POLISHED BAND OR A B L AC K OR OR ANGE RUBBER STR AP THE HARD WE AR ING AND THE SAME TIME AS ITS JAW OPENS IN L AUGHTER TO REVE AL A MESSAGE CARPE DIEM OF ITS VILLERE T E X TR APL ATE THAT IS DISTIN PRECISION HAS E ARNED E ACH OF THEM CHRO TRY S HIGHEST STANDARDS FIRMLY EMBEDDED IN THE MEN S UNIVERSE OF THE HOUSE THAT V RONIQUE CER AMIC BE ZEL ITS BL ACK GOLD COATED DIAL FE ATURES A MINUTE TR ACK COMFORTABLE WOVEN STR AP SPECIALLY DE VELOPED FOR THE H08 WATCH A TABLE AU THAT L ASTS FOR 16 SECONDS GU I SH ED BY A YEL LOW GO LD CASE PA I R ED NOME TER CERTIFICATION NICHANIAN HAS BEEN SHAPING OVER THE PAST THREE DECADES A MULTIDIREC LUMINESCENT AR ABIC NUMER ALS AND BL ACK NICKEL COATED HANDS FOR THE IS ENTIRELY CONSISTENT WITH THE L AIDBACK SOPHISTICATION OF HERM S TIONAL WORLD IN WHICH PERFECT CUTS SENSUAL MATERIALS AND IMPECCABLE HOURS MINUTES AND CENTRE SECONDS WITH A DATE WINDOW BET WEEN 4 AND MENSWE AR STANDARDS OF COMFORT ARE THE COMMON DENOMINATORS 5 O CLOCK IT IS PAIRED WITH A BL ACK RUBBER STR AP SECURED BY A TITANIUM W I T H T H E F I R ST E V ER G R EEN D I A L I N T H E

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46 WATCH YOUR TIME CLASSIC FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 47 central bracelet links also in yellow gold Cartier meanwhile is reviving the Tank Must a watch that was all the rage in the 1990s Still with the same clean lines and elegant proportions this year s version takes an unexpected colour bath with executions in green blue and burgundy As these examples show aesthetic variations on a vintage theme are legion in watchmaking They are also significant of two wider considerations Firstly the accentuation of a trend a return to classic designs that has always existed but has become especially prominent in the new releases of the past eighteen months a consequence of the disruptions to production and distribution caused by the coronavirus pandemic Brands have looked to reassure consumers at a time of uncertainty and consumers have followed suit preferring the security of a classic style at all price points Any maker with a long and storied history Rolex s sister company Tudor is another example has in its catalogue at least one model if not an entire collection that references an iconic watch in particular one from the 1940s or 1950s widely considered the golden age of the mechanical timepiece Secondly references to iconic models are a means for a brand to draw attention to its history experience and therefore authenticity For up and coming generations of watch buyers these milestones help them navigate an otherwise complex terrain On that note a walk through any city anywhere in the world will confirm that few of today s young adults wear a watch preferring the latest electronic Nature s wonders devices instead Should by chance you spot a wristwatch it will more than likely be a Casio The Japanese brand has made some clever reissues of 1970s and 80s models with liquid crystal displays on a metal bracelet This blend of vintage design technology and affordable pricing has proved hugely successful among young buyers A trend from the 80s This isn t the first time brands have looked to the past and for reasons similar to those partly described here The early 1980s saw the revival of the mechanical watch in the wake of the quartz crisis that had challenged the foundations of the Swiss watch industry Unable to find a timepiece that satisfied their taste and requirements enthusiasts turned to the collector s market and started to buy iconic mechanical watches by their favourite brands which responded by launching a first wave of vintage inspired designs This would prove beneficial for the entire Swiss watch industry in its determination to recapture its preeminence on international markets The interest expressed in horological tradition was as powerful as the message these classic watches deliver Even Swatch a brand established as recently as 1983 backed by major investments in innovation has caught on to demand for reissues of its old favourites which are now classics in their own right Grand Seiko which celebrated its 60th anniversary in 2020 still follows the advice of Seiko s founder Don t run but always keep going guided by the endless cycle of the seasons as a mark of passing time I II V III VI IIII VII I TAG HEUE R MONACO GREEN DIAL THIS SPECIAL III MONTBLANC PYTHAGORE SMALL SECOND MINERVA V JA EG E R LECOU LTR E R EVERSO TR IBUTE SMALL VII BAUME MERCIER RIVIERA BAUMATIC INSPIRED BY EDITION ROLLS OUT A DIAL IN EMER ALD GREEN A CON MONTBLANC S MOVEMENT MAKING DIVISION DESIGNED SECONDS GR EEN T H I S R E V ERSO T R I B U T E S M A L L A MODEL FROM 1973 THIS WATCH IS A PERFECT BLEND TEMPOR ARY COLOUR AND ONE OF THE MOST IN DEMAND CALIBRE 48 IN THE 1940S IT EARNED THE NICKNAME THE SECONDS IN DEEP GREEN CASTS BACK TO THE COLOUR OF RETRO APPEAL AND CONTEMPOR ARY SPORTS ST YLE AMONG COLLECTORS THIS IS THE FIRST GREEN DIAL PY THAGOR AS BECAUSE ITS BRIDGES ARE POSITIONED FUL DIALS OF THE ORIGINAL RE VERSO WATCHES THE STILL WITH THE T WELVE SIDED BE ZEL THE GENEROUS FOR THE TAG HEUER MONACO A CHARISMATIC CHRON USING PROPORTIONS DEFINED BY PYTHAGORAS S GOLDEN L ACQUERED SUNR AY DIAL AND COORDINATING LEATHER STEEL CASE EXTENDS INTO AN INTEGR ATED BR ACELET OGR APH STILL WITH ITS DISTINCTIVE SQUARE CASE R ATIO IT SERVED AS THE REFERENCE POINT FOR MONT STR AP ARE THE COLOUR OF THE FIR TREES THAT GROW THE MOVEMENT IN THIS 43MM VERSION IS THE IN HOUSE II PANER AI LUMINOR MARINA 44MM GUILLAUME N RY BL ANC TO DEVELOP THE MANUAL WINDING MB M 14 08 AROUND THE JAEGER LECOULTRE MANUFACTURE IN THE BAUMATIC THAT DELIVERS FIVE DAYS OF POWER RESERVE EDITION THE CASE OF THIS LUMINOR MARINA NAMED CALIBRE THAT IS VISIBLE THROUGH THE SAPPHIRE BACK HE ART OF SWITZERL AND S VALL E DE JOUX AF TER FREEDIVING WORLD CHAMPION GUILLAUME N RY IIII FR D RIQUE CONSTANT HIGHLIFE LADIES AUTO VI HERM S ARCEAU SQUELETTE DESIGNED BY HENRI IS 3D PRINTED IN SANDBL ASTED TITANIUM THE INTENSE MATIC SPARKLING FREDERIQUE CONSTANT IS INTRO D ORIGNY IN 1978 THE ARCEAU IS DISTINGUISHED BY ASYM BL ACK OF THE RUBBERIZED COATING APPLIED TO THE DUC I NG A NE W C O LLECT I ON FOR WO M EN NA M ED METRICAL STIRRUP SHAPED LUGS THE CLEAN LINES OF ITS BEZEL CROWN AND CROWN GUARD LENDS DEPTH THE SIMPLY HIGHLIFE L ADIES THIS HIGHLIFE L ADIES AUTO CASE AND A SLOPING DIAL FONT THIS NEW ITERATION ADDS DIAL ALSO BL ACK SHADES LIGHT TO DARK MATIC SPARKLING INCORPOR ATES ONE OF THE COL A DIFFERENT DIMENSION TO A CLASSIC AMONG HERM S LECTION S SIGNATURE ELEMENTS AN INTEGR ATED AND WATCHES THANKS TO A SMOKED SAPPHIRE DIAL WHOSE INTERCHANGE ABLE BR ACELE T TRANSPARENT CENTRE REVEALS THE MOVEMENT BELOW Two symbols capture Grand Seiko s dedication to the traditions of Japan One is the lion for its logo representing the strength of a brand with global ambitions The other is Nature representing beauty and perfection This desire to excel inspired the launch in 1960 of Grand Seiko as Seiko s prestige range Initially sold only in Japan Grand Seiko watches became available to an international audience in 2010 the first step in an expansion strategy that led to the creation in 2017 of Grand Seiko as a brand in its own right part of a company founded 140 years ago by the great grandfather of Shinji Hattori Chairman of the Board of Seiko Watch Corp Currently Grand Seiko Boutique are expanding at prime locations around the globe the latest on Place Vend me in Paris New York s Madison Avenue and in the Miami Design District which is only to be expected from a brand that is the fourth largest in its price segment the distance or the nearby forests of white birch Every Grand Seiko watch is instilled with values of precision reliability and excellence Grand Seiko speaks the same language as Swiss watch brands but doesn t share the same grammar says Fr d ric Bondoux President of Grand Seiko Europe The Japanese experience of time has always been different to that of other countries in the world Grand Seiko has conserved this more poetic concept of time and its relation to nature The Grand Seiko lion is making its roar heard but can also be found engaged in quiet contemplation of Nature s wonders When the brand opened a new manufacturing studio last year it did so in Shizukuishi an area of immense natural beauty in northern Honshu the largest of the main islands of Japan This is where Grand Seiko s watchmakers give form to the nature of time looking across to the majestic peaks of Mount Iwate in New chapters This year s releases beautifully illustrate this approach starting with the first two watches in the new Series 9 design which is set to become one of the pillars of the Grand Seiko Heritage Collection s signature in the years to come This new design takes inspiration from the 44GS introduced in 1967 as shown by the steeper lines of the case more prominent indexes a broad hour hand Zaratsu polishing that alternates hairline finished and mirror surfaces and most of all superb dial finishing After a first limited edition in platinum SLGH007 introduced earlier in the year with a tree trunk texture on a black dial the SLGH005 captures the mood of the white birch tree forests near the studio where all Grand Seiko mechanical watches are crafted In summer and winter alike the tall slender trunks and the white bark of the birch trees present a shimmering vista that is at once beautiful and mysterious To look closely at the dial is to experience the exact same feeling that the visitor to these forests enjoys and to be brought closer than ever to the true and eternal nature of time This is also the first appearance in Grand Seiko s regular production of the high beat 9SA5 calibre Introduced last year it marks the beginning of a new chapter in the history of Grand Seiko A Dual Impulse Escapement transfers power both indirectly and directly from the escapement wheel to the balance mounted with a spring that has a unique curved overcoil The horizontal gear train is coupled to twin barrels They deliver 80 hours of power reserve which is exceptional for a high beat 36 000 vph movement while precision of 3 to 5 seconds per day exceeds the requirements of the Contr le Officiel Suisse des Chronom tres Another collection another movement the 9S86 high beat calibre which joins the Spring Drive 9R66 movement in the Elegance collection These four GMT watches take us on a walk through the seasons with dials inspired by the subtle shifts in mood at different times of year And what could be better on a summer s evening than the strains of jazz as Grand Seiko embarks on a new role as official timekeeper of Jazz at Lincoln Center directed by the great Wynton Marsalis Christophe Roulet GR AND SE IKO ELEGANCE GMT GR AND SEI KO PRESENTS A SER IES OF GMT AND T JI WINTER THE SHUNBUN AND SH SHO VERSIONS FE ATURE THE HI BE AT GRAND SEIKO HERITAGE 9SA5 HI BEAT 36000 THIS NEW GRAND SEIKO EQUIPPED WITH WATCHES INSPIRED BY THE CHANGING OF THE SE ASONS IN JAPAN E ACH OF 36000 GMT CALIBRE 9S86 WHILE THE SPRING DRIVE GMT CALIBRE 9R66 POWERS A HIGH BEAT MOVEMENT SHEDS NEW LIGHT ON THE NATURE OF TIME THE TREE TRUNK THE FOUR SE ASONS IS E XPERIENCED IN SIX PHASES AND ALL HAVE THEIR OWN THE K ANRO AND T JI CRE ATIONS SHOWN HERE THE SHUNBUN SBGJ251 COR TEXTURE ON THE DIAL IS THAT OF THE WHITE BIRCH A COMMON SIGHT IN CENTRAL DISTINCT CHAR ACTERS THE SUBTLE CHANGES FROM ONE TO THE NE XT BRING RESPONDS TO THE SPRING EQUINOX WHEN WE SENSE THAT SPRING IS TRULY IN AND NORTHERN JAPAN INCLUDING AROUND THE TWO STUDIOS WHERE GRAND SEIKO THE NATURE OF TI ME E VER CLOSER TO OUR SENSES E ACH OF THESE GMT THE AIR THE CHERRY TREES IN THE MOUNTAINS START TO BLOOM DECOR ATING WATCHES ARE MADE THE INTRICATE TEXTURE FINE DETAILS AND CAREFUL CONCEP WATCHES CELEBR ATES ONE OF THE YEAR S 24 SEASONAL PHASES OR SEKKI THE THE SLOPES WITH DELICATE PINK FLOWERS THE GREEN DIAL AND PINK GOLD TION OF THIS WATCH ARE A WINDOW ONTO JAPAN S UNIQUE NATURAL ENVIRONMENT CHOSEN SEKKI ARE SHUNBUN SPRING SH SHO SUMMER K ANRO AUTUMN ACCENTS PERFECTLY CAP TURE THE PROMISE OF SPRING AND THE EXQUISITE CRAFTSMANSHIP OF GRAND SEIKO

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LADIES WATCH YOUR TIME 49 Decorative arts o Paloma Recio directrice de la revue R E Art is made to disturb Georges Braque 1882 1963 As mechanical movements become a fixture of women s watches regardless of case size the distinction between men s and women s timepieces is becoming blurred Only decoration continues to make the difference S h x p i r H u a n g w w w a d b a g e n c y c o m Of the various criteria that influence our choice of watch size still matters but is no longer the dealbreaker it once was particularly as the difference in diameter that used to distinguish his from hers is disappearing Men s watches are no longer so imposing while brands are discreetly adding millimetres to their women s models The day they meet in the middle can t be far Coinciding with this trend is the ever growing interest among women watch buyers for mechanical movements and complications What does this mean for the gender divide in watchmaking If the distinction no longer comes down to case size or mechanism should we be looking at case shape Or dial colour The answer lies more with decoration and specifically watchmakers companion crafts the m tiers d art More than complications and feats of engineering it is the aesthetic of a watch that is most apt to captivate the senses The artist s imagination and skill turn a timepiece into an often unique work of art The passing of time becomes almost secondary compared with the beauty of vibrant enamelwork miniature painting an ornate engraving intricate gem setting subtle guillochage painstaking marquetry or a delicate filigree Displays of hours minutes and seconds are transformed by craftsmen and women in an array of disciplines each of which requires vast patience years of experience and the ability to think creatively Hegel s observation that the purpose of art is to reveal the essential the great and the sublime has never been truer HERM S CAPE COD CHA NE D ANCRE DIAMONDS AND OBSIDIAN RE VE AL A PRECIOUS NEW FACE T OF THE CAPE COD CHA NE D ANCRE HENRI D ORIGNY SKE TCHED THE IDE A FOR THE CAPE COD IN 1991 THE BRIEF WAS FOR A SQUARE WATCH BUT THE DESIGNER HAD OTHER IDE AS THIS WOULD BE A SQUARE INSIDE A RECTANGLE RIGOROUS IN ITS STRUCTURE BUT ALWAYS CRE ATIVE THE CAPE COD LENDS ITSELF TO A MULTITUDE OF ST YLES THE DISTINCTIVELY SHAPED CASE IS FORMED BY T WO ANCHOR CHAIN HALF LINKS A MOTIF IMAGINED BY ROBERT DUMAS IN 1938 THIS SAME MOTIF IS REPE ATED IN DIAMONDS ON THE DIAL Artisans at work Although men s timepieces can put on a show of visual artistry as certain pocket watches and clocks by Patek Philippe remind us these m tiers d art reach their apogee in women s watches Conscious of the need to preserve these rare crafts prestigious watch brands have brought these skills in house by creating specialist studios and employing their own artisans Which doesn t prevent them from calling on the most talented independent names For enamelwork this invariably means Anita Porchet a Swiss woman who is widely acknowledged as the greatest enamel artist today The most remarkable dials have

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50 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 51 come to life in her hands Indeed it s no coincidence that virtually every fine watch brand has at some time or another enlisted the services of Ms Porchet for its most extraordinary pieces One of her most recent productions is the dial for the Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem which she created alongside engraver Dick Steenman The time is given on demand by automata when the snake shaped pusher is activated the snake and the skull on the dial spring to life Further examples are the four Piaget Rose watches made by Piaget s own artisans in its aptly named Ateliers de l Extraordinaire again in collaboration with Anita Porchet and Dick Steenman Together they have hand crafted four unique dials with microsculpted and carved imperial jasper coral chrysoprase and mother of pearl engraved gold and coloured enamel to depict the queen of blooms in all its splendour Be happy Julia Roberts brings her infectious joy and energy to Chopard s Happy Sport as ambassador for the collection The Hollywood star rose to fame in the 1990s dazzling directors and audiences with a smile that lights up not just a room but an entire building After a series of decade defining movies in 2001 she received the Academy Award for Best Actress Appearing at the Cannes Film Festival in 2016 she walked the red carpet wearing a stunning diamond and emerald necklace by Chopard Now the actress and the jeweller are back together to celebrate the joie de vivre of the Happy Sport For the ninetieth anniversary of the Reverso JaegerLeCoultre is returning to the Reverso One with models that sublimate fine watchmaking with the Chopard has always intended the Happy Sport as a watch that women can wear in all circumstances hence one that fits comfortably on the wrist When designing the new models in the collection the brand has applied the principles of the golden ratio in order to define ideal proportions For the Happy Sport The First which is based on the original Happy Sport from 1993 this means a 33mm case size surrounding a silver toned dial Blue Roman numerals echo the cabochon sapphires on the four lugs and on the crown The main attraction however has to be the seven diamonds that cascade around the dial between two sapphire crystals a luxurious addition to the more sporting style of the case in Lucent Steel A223 set on a pebble bracelet A sign of the brand s maturity the Happy Sport The First is equipped with the automatic Chopard 09 01 C calibre comprising 148 components that was developed manufactured and assembled at Chopard s own movement manufacturing facilities C R m tiers d art A unique horological icon the Reverso s two faces offer a perfect canvas for artistic expression These latest iterations make use of enamelling gem setting and engraving all techniques practiced inside the M tiers Rares atelier that JaegerLeCoultre opened inside its historic premises in Le Sentier in 2016 Taking 1920s decorative jewellery as their inspiration the artisans demonstrate the full extent of their expertise taking turns to play their part in a perfectly timed composition The piece is first engraved then passed to the enameller who applies multiple layers of pigment for nuance and visual depth Each layer must be fired in order to fix the colour a delicate process that takes many days Lastly the background is decorated with lacquer or mother of pearl or set with diamonds Freedom of expression A material that can be traced to antiquity and which has been used in watchmaking since the seventeenth century enamel is a vitreous glaze which like glass is composed of silica alkaline elements and lead Ground into a colourless powder it is combined with different metal oxides to produce an almost I For any challenge Introduced in 1978 the TAG Heuer Aquaracer is back in the spotlight with a new look The result is a professional tool watch that combines good looks with performance II The brief for the new Aquaracer was short and to the point This was to be the watch for any challenge nothing out of the ordinary for a brand that makes pushing the limits a habit As CEO Fr d ric Arnault likes to remind us TAG Heuer has been making bold high performance stylish luxury tool watches for more than four decades One of the market s hottest segments right now the sports watch is built to stand up to the knocks and shocks of active use with the hint of a time when watch designers sat down with pen paper and a slide rule III IIII environments As TAG Heuer explains more and more people are turning to dive watches for their robustness and versatility at the same time wanting a watch they can wear for work and play informed by the facetted bezel while a wider swordshaped hour hand and slimmer minute hand create a strong distinction for improved legibility Also with legibility in mind the lume on the hour hand and markers is a different colour to the lume on the minute hand Last but not least the crown guard is rounder Dive watches were for a long time the epitome of the rugged reliable watch Even if they rarely got anywhere near water The fact they could withstand the pressure both of daily life and a couple of hundred metres depth put them high on the watch buyer s wishlist Now though they face competition from another category of timepiece that is equally robust and elegant into the bargain Sleeker and often made from precious metals they put style and distinction above sporting credentials The new Aquaracer is typical of this evolution being a functional reliable instrument that adapts to multiple Ready for anything Of course there would be no cutting corners The new Aquaracer Professional had to live up to its name hence the six signature features have been carefully reviewed and upgraded Since 1983 the Aquaracer has had at least 200 metre water resistance a unidirectional rotating bezel a screw down crown luminous markings a sapphire crystal and a double safety clasp all essential specifications that divers rely on underwater The first upgrade concerns the twelve sided bezel which keeps its distinctive form but gets a scratch resistant ceramic insert and fluting on each facet making it easier to grip and turn The internal tooth profile has been re engineered to make the rotating mechanism smoother The sapphire crystal now incorporates a magnifier on its underside that makes the date at 6 o clock easier to read from wider angles The eight hour markers have been given an octagonal shape The watch s aesthetic has also been carefully updated TAG Heuer s designers have evolved the Aquaracer s overall form to be thinner and lighter The case bezel and metal bracelet have all been slimmed down without compromising the watch s core performance features such as water resistance to 300 metres 30 bar while also improving durability The new watch s lugs are now shorter while the case edge has been chamfered and polished to give more harmony to the watch s visual impact and add refinement As a result on the wrist the watch now has a more sophisticated profile and is lighter and more ergonomic The brand s conclusion As a result of these technical and aesthetic upgrades the new Aquaracer Professional 300 is both a nod to the past and a contemporary design ready for the future in fact it s ready for anything Christophe Roulet CHOPARD HAPPY SPORT THE FIRST CREATED IN 1993 IN AN INNOVATIVE ALLIANCE BETWEEN I BREGUET CLASSIQUE 7337 THE TIMELESSLY MODEL IN PINK GOLD AND STEEL A CABOCHON IIII HUBLOT BIG BANG ONE CLICK 33MM HUBLOT STEEL AND DIAMONDS HAPPY SPORT HAS SURVIVED ALMOST THREE DECADES WHILE PRE ELEGANT CL ASSIQUE LINE IS THE EMBODIMENT SPINEL SE T IN ITS CROWN IS EQUIPPED WITH USHERS IN BRIGHTER DAYS WITH THE BIG BANG SERVING EVERY OUNCE OF ITS CHARM AND MODERNITY CHOPARD NOW PRESENTS HAPPY OF PURE BREGUE T ST YLE THE BR AND RE VIS THE MANUAL WINDING 430 MC IN HOUSE CALIBRE ONE CLICK 33MM IN STEEL OR KING GOLD WITH SPORT THE FIRST TWO 1 993 AND 788 PIECE LIMITED EDITION RE RELEASES OF THE VERY ITS THE CL ASSIQUE 7337 WITH ONE OF ITS SPE WHICH SUPPLIES 38 HOURS OF POWER RESERVE INTERCHANGEABLE STR APS THE CASE HAS BEEN FIRST WATCH PRESENTED WHEN THE COLLECTION WAS LAUNCHED THEY PAY FAITHFUL C I A L I T I E S T R A D I T I O N A L G U I L LO C H AG E O R III ULYSSE NARDIN SKELETON X SPARKLING REFINED TO WR AP AROUND SLIM MER WRISTS HOMAGE TO THIS ICON THANKS TO ITS LEGENDARY DIAMONDS AND ITS PEBBLE LINK ENGINE TURNING DIFFERENT PAT TERNS SUBTLY COMING AF TER THE SKELE TON X RE VE ALED IN AND CAN CHANGE APPE AR ANCE TO MATCH THE BRACELET WHILE ADDING MAJOR INNOVATIONS A NEW CASE IN LUCENT STEEL A223 REDE DISTINGUISH THE VARIOUS INDICATIONS ON THE 2019 AND A SHOWCASE FOR WATCH M A K I NG MOOD IN A SINGLE CLICK TAG HEUER AQUAR ACER PROFESSIONAL 300 THE NEW AQUAR ACER L AUNCHES INSERT WITH A WHITE TRIANGLE AT 12 O CLOCK FILLED WITH BLUE SUPER LUMI TAG HEUER AQUARACER PROFESSIONAL 300 TRIBUTE THIS AQUAR ACER PROFES SIGNED IN A 33 MM DIAMETER INSPIRED BY THE PRINCIPLES OF THE GOLDEN R ATIO AS SILVERED GOLD DIALS TECHNOLOGY ULYSSE NARDIN INTRODUCES THIS AS SEVEN REFERENCES IN T WO CASE SIZES FOUR AT 43MM AND THREE AT 36MM NOVA THE DIAL OF THE 43MM MODELS IS ENGR AVED WITH HORIZONTAL LINES SIONAL 300 TRIBUTE TO REF 844 PICKS UP ON THE REF 844 DIVE WATCH FROM 1978 WELL AS THE MANUFACTURE CHOPARD 09 01 C MOVEMENT WITH AUTOMATIC WINDING II SANTOS DUMONT DE CARTIER WATCH A PURE DIAMOND SET MODEL FOR WOMEN WITH AN EYE ALL SE VEN HAVE A UNIDIRECTIONAL DIVE BE ZEL WITH CER AMIC INSERT AND WITH REFINED SPACING WHILE THE DIAL OF THE 36MM VERSIONS IS ENGR AVED A GR ADE 5 TITANIUM CASE COMBINES WITH NUMEROUS VISUAL ELEMENTS FROM JULIA ROBERTS CHOOSES THE CHOPARD HAPPY SPORT WATCH JULIA ROBERTS HAS BECOME DES IGN ON AN A LLIG ATOR STR AP THE SAN FOR EXCLUSIVE TIMEPIECES IT IS SHOWN HERE IN ENGR AVED MINUTES SCALE SIX ARE IN STAINLESS STEEL WITH A CHOICE OF WITH THE WAVE PAT TERN THAT WAS INTRODUCED IN 2019 ALL FE ATURE A REDE THE HISTORIC MODEL SUCH AS REF 844 S RED 24 HOUR SCALE ON THE FLAT BLACK THE ULTIMATE EMBODIMENT OF FREE SPIRITED WOMEN IT IS HARDLY SURPRISING THAT TOS DUMONT WATCH FAITHFULLY REPLICATES BLACK AND PINK GOLD WITH A BLACK PVD BR ASS BLACK BLUE OR SILVER TONED DIAL THE SEVENTH IS IN MAT TE GR ADE 2 TITANIUM SIGNED INTEGR ATED ME TAL BR ACELE T THAT CAN BE LENGTHENED OR SHORT DIAL THE TRIBUTE ALSO HAS VINTAGE LUME AND A BLACK RUBBER STR AP BASED CAROLINE SCHEUFELE CO PRESIDENT OF CHOPARD AND A GREAT LOVER OF THE SEVENTH THE ELEGANCE OF THE 1904 ORIGINAL THIS XL BARREL COVER ON A BL ACK ALLIGATOR STR AP THE STAINLESS STEEL VERSIONS FE ATURE A BL ACK OR BLUE CER AMIC BE ZEL ENED BY 1 5CM FOR A PERFECT FIT ON THE ORIGINAL DESIGN WITH PERFOR ATIONS THAT LET WATER PASS BETWEEN ART ASKED HER TO EMBODY THE HAPPY SPORT WOMAN WHEN IT WAS TIME TO LAUNCH THE NEW VERSIONS OF THE WATCH CAROLINE SCHEUFELE IT WAS HER OR NO ONE ELSE THE STR AP AND THE DIVER S WRIST

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52 WATCH YOUR TIME LADIES FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 53 infinite palette of shades each artisan follows his or her own recipe It is then applied on a metal base using the different techniques of champlev plique jour paillonn cloisonn flinqu or miniature painting The piece is fired at between 800 C and 1 200 C The most complex designs require as many as a dozen firings While enamelling remains one of the most sought after techniques in watch decoration gem setting is equally desirable The dexterity of the gem setter working with precious stones selected one by one for their cut size and colour makes each watch unique As with enamel the same person will work on a piece from beginning to end often for several weeks One of the most coveted techniques and also one of the most difficult to master is the invisible setting Reserved for the most experienced artisans it involves setting the stones edgeto edge so as to conceal the metal mount creating the impression that there is nothing holding the stones usually diamonds in place Another popular technique snow setting allows greater freedom of expression as the artisan decides on the ideal arrangement of diamonds of different diameters to cover a surface again with the aim of concealing as much of the metal beneath as possible The finished effect is one of snow crystals glinting in the sun Patience and passion Clearly creating an elegant dial is far from simple The craftsmen and women at Cadrans Fluckiger would certainly agree Patience and passion are de rigueur here at one of Switzerland s foremost dialmakers which each year produces I around 100 000 dials mostly for Patek Philippe though not only showcasing a great variety of decorative techniques It takes between 50 and 200 separate operations to craft an entire dial and this can represent three to six months of painstaking work By way of example a guillochage pattern that could be produced in three minutes using a CNC machine takes more than 30 minutes when created by hand on a rose engine lathe For a result beyond compare Guillochage or engine turning is a complex technique and a revolutionary one when Abraham Louis Breguet 1747 1823 became the first to use it on a watch circa 1786 sensing that it would instil a distinctive beauty to his dials Still today guillochage is one of the signatures of a Breguet Having outlined with a hand graver those parts of the dial that will house indications such as subsidiary seconds moon phases or calendar displays the actual guillochage can begin Rotating wheels fitted to a lathe etch the surface with straight and curved lines sometimes crossing to form the decorative pattern hobnail barleycorn waves etc that will give the watch its unique personality The speed of rotation and the pressure applied to the workpiece are critical to the end result Powdered silver is then brushed on the dial to create a satin like finish Making history Since 1832 Longines pioneering spirit has been a part of Swiss watchmaking s fabulous journey Today this legacy is underpinned by a strong sense of innovation expressed in watches with style and substance The artisans at Breguet still work on lathes that are over a hundred years old engraving patterns precise to a tenth of a millimetre The work is always executed by hand on a solid gold dial plate or for certain models mother of pearl whose delicate brittle nature requires even greater mastery As Fernando Pessoa reminds us art is the proof that life is not enough III II IIII Should you ever decide to browse through Longines catalogue allow yourself plenty of time With something like a thousand references in all the brand is a force to be reckoned with Present in more than 150 countries the leader in its segment and with the might of Swatch Group behind it Longines has well and truly put its mark on the horological landscape It belongs to the elite circle of billionaire brands namely brands with sales in excess of one billion Swiss Francs And it has no intention of stopping there Chief Executive since July 2020 Matthias Breschan has made clear his objective to hit two billion by 2025 V VI VII I CHANEL MADEMOISELLE PRIV BOUTON BYZANTINE I I I JAEG E R LECOU LTR E REVERSO ONE PR ECIOUS THE PASSAGE OF TIME WITH A CALM GR ACE THAT CAP VII BVLGARI DIVA S DREAM PEACOCK DIAMONDS THIS DECOR INTRODUCED IN 2020 CHANEL S MADEMOISELLE FLOWERS THE RE VERSO IS THE CENTRE OF AT TENTION TURES THE ATMOSPHERE OF MISHAK A POND DIVA S DRE AM DEPICTS A PE ACOCK IN ALL ITS GLORY PRIV BOUTON COLLECTION WELCOMES FOUR NE W IN THIS ITS 90TH YEAR WITH FOUR PRECIOUS FLOWERS V PANER AI PICCOLO DUE MADREPERLA THE IRIDES DELICATELY HAND PAINTED ON MOTHER OF PEARL THE INTERPRETATIONS INCLUDING THIS BYZANTINE DECOR DESIGNS E ACH ONE A MASTERPIECE OF ENAMELLING CENT MOTHER OF PE ARL DIAL ENDOWS E ACH PANER AI INDIVIDUAL CELLS CRE ATE THE EFFECT OF A ROMAN THE WATCH S DIAL IS CONCEALED UNDER A YELLOW GOLD ENGR AVING AND GEM SE T TING INSPIRED BY 1920S PICCOLO DUE MADREPERL A WITH ITS VERY OWN PER MOSAIC IN BLUE AND GREEN SHADES THE DIAL S RICH DIAMOND SET BUT TON THAT FASTENS A RED QUILTED JE WELLERY DESIGNS THE Y CELEBR ATE THE BE AUT Y SONALIT Y IT M AKES AN ELEGANT COM PLEM ENT TO COLOURS ARE MADE ALL THE MORE SPECTACUL AR BY LE ATHER STR AP FINISHED WITH GOLD LE ATHER TRIM OF FLOWERS THE DIAMOND PAVED MODEL SHOWN THE PINK GOLD HANDS APPLIED NUMER ALS AND DATE THE ADDITION OF DIAMONDS II AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK SELF WINDING FLYING HERE BLOSSOMS WITH PURPLE ARUMS A SYMBOL OF WINDOW THAT GLEAM WITH WARM R ADIANCE LENDING A TOURBILLON AUDEM ARS PIGUE T PRESENTS A NE W CHARM AND PASSION SURPRISING FEMININE AESTHETIC TO THIS LUMINOR DUE SERIES OF ROYAL OAK WATCHES WITH GREEN DIALS I I I I G R AND SE IKO SPRING DRIVE 8 DAYS JEWELRY VI LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR CURVE FLYING TOURBILLON THIS VERSION MATCHES A TITANIUM CASE WITH A WHITE FOR ITS 140TH ANNIVERSARY AND ITS SECOND JE W POIN ON DE GEN VE GEM SET WHEN LOUIS VUIT TON GOLD BE ZEL EMBELLISHED WITH 32 BAGUE T TE CUT ELLERY WATCH SEI KO HAS CHOSEN TO ILLUSTR ATE DECIDED TO REFRESH ITS ICONIC TAMBOUR THERE WERE EMER ALDS EACH FACETED AND SET BY HAND THE EMER ANOTHER UNIQUE CHAR ACTERISTIC OF THE NATUR AL NO HALF M E ASURES MOVEM ENT MATER IALS CASE ALDS VERDANT HUES ENHANCE THE GREEN COLOUR SURROUNDINGS OF ITS WATCHMAKING STUDIOS WITH STR AP AND FOLDING CL ASP EVERY ASPECT HAS BEEN OF THE TAPISSERIE DIAL WHILE OFFERING A UNIQUE ITS GREEN MOTHER OF PEARL DIAL AND GREEN GARNET REIMAGINED IN THIS TECHNICAL FUTURISTIC WATCH PL AY OF LIGHT INDE XES THIS NEW SPRING DRIVE WATCH PRESENTS THERE IS EVEN A GEM SET VERSION SHOWN HERE That Longines should stand so tall in its market owes a lot to the fabulous heritage of a brand that saw daylight in the Swiss Jura in 1832 Longines is one of the few brands that has helped shape the history of watchmaking for close to two centuries says Matthias Breschan This is the brand that invented the flyback chronograph the rotating bezel the central power reserve and was first to fit a high frequency movement in a wristwatch It s already a lengthy list of achievements but Longines has no intention of resting on its laurels Innovation is hardwired into A balanced attraction Tradition and innovation mechanical and quartz Longines has mastered this duality with enormous success and draws its strength from collections that appeal to men and women comfortably navigating between traditional and sports styles with an elegance that defines its attitude to borrow from the brand s slogan since 1997 In practical terms this means watches that rank among the most competitive in the market as this autumn s releases confirm For women the brand is extending its evidenza collection of tonneau shaped watches with a hint of Art Deco The brand s designers began by creating dials in colours inspired by the sea from a refreshing ocean green to the silvery tones of sea spray What really sets these new models apart however is the contrast between the matte finish in the dial centre and the sunburst finish around the outside which is painted with longer slimmer Roman numerals The second new model entering the women s collections is a mechanical complication with displays of moon phases and a pointer type date in a 34mm diameter with the choice of a steel bracelet or a coloured strap Visible through the sapphire caseback the exclusive L899 5 movement with automatic winding is fitted with a balance spring in silicon a material that is light anti magnetic resistant to oxidation and insensitive to thermal expansion Proof of its reliability watches equipped with this movement benefit from a five year warranty Dial options are mother of pearl with diamond hour markers blue with a sunburst finish or silver toned with a barleycorn decoration For men Longines is introducing a fresh iteration of the Longines Spirit a watch that draws on models the brand was making for the pioneers of flight Cased in grade 5 titanium it plays on contrasts between dark shades and subtle sheens The hands numerals stars and hourglass symbol have the soft gleam of a muted gold tone expressing a perfect balance between shades and textures The absence of a date window accentuates the aeronautic inspired dial symmetry In the history of Longines the five stars on the dial indicate the quality and reliability of its movements The COSC certified chronometer calibre that powers this Longines Spirit is a reminder that some things haven t changed Christophe Roulet LONGINES EVIDENZ A LIFE BEGINS AT EIGHTEEN WHICH HAPPENS TO BE THE LONGINES SPIRIT THE LONGINES SPIRIT COLLECTION ORIGINATES IN THE WORLD THE MASTER LONGINES COLLECTION ELEGANCE AND DISTINCTION DEFINE THE AGE OF THE LONGINES E VIDENZ A WATCH AN AFFIRMATION OF THE ELEGANCE OF AVIATION THESE CHAR ACTERFUL MODELS IN TITANIUM MATCH ELEGANCE LONGINES MASTER COLLECTION WHICH OFFERS A VARIE T Y OF MECHANICAL ST YLE AND TR ADITION OF THE BR AND ITS ART DECO INSPIRED DESIGN HARKS WITH STATE OF THE ART TECHNOLOGY IN LOW LIGHT HANDS AND NUMER ALS MOVEMENTS HOURS MINUTES SECONDS AND DATE CHRONOGR APH POWER BACK TO THE TIME WHEN LONGINES WAS MAKING ITS FIRST FORM NON ROUND GLOW WITH BLUE LINE SUPER LUMINOVA JUST ONE OF THE DE TAILS THAT RESERVE RE TROGR ADE AND ANNUAL CALENDAR INTRODUCED T WO YE ARS WATCHES RE TURNING CENTRE STAGE THIS AUTOMATIC WINDING MODEL FOR CELEBR ATE THE PIONEERS WHO MADE THE SK Y THEIR HOME AGO ON THE MEN S MODELS THE MOON PHASE DISPL AY RE TURNS THIS YE AR WOMEN ADOPTS OCE AN GREEN AND SILVER DIAL COLOURS PAIRED WITH COORDINATING LE ATHER STR APS OR A SUPPLE STEEL BR ACELE T the brand which equips all its automatic watches with anti magnetic silicon balance springs and has one of the most innovative latest generation quartz movements IN A 34MM CASE FOR WOMEN WHO APPRECIATE MECHANICAL COMPLICATIONS

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COMPLICATIONS WATCH YOUR TIME 55 Complicated time o Vincent Daveau Art begins with resistance Andr Gide 1869 1951 Widely regarded as a profession rooted in tradition watchmaking is attentive to developments in materials and technology as well as societal trends in its efforts to win over younger cosmopolitan consumers who consider innovation to be the norm S h x p i r H u a n g w w w a d b a g e n c y c o m Watchmaking isn t a profession we immediately associate with hightech composites and futuristic alloys yet the industry is no stranger to cutting edge materials Having safely negotiated Y2K many brands saw the new millennium as the right time to break with the past and hired materials scientists today s alchemists to turn lead into gold Or rather to use materials borrowed from Formula 1 racing aerospace and yachting to develop a new generation of complications that would appeal to a new generation of buyers This evolution has produced a host of original timepieces in materials which while new to watchmaking have all the requisite qualities Cleverly marketed as the material of high speed high performance sports carbon remains the most successful by far Forged at Audemars Piguet layered at TAG Heuer woven at Richard Mille carbon fibre reinforced polymer carbon composite as it s better known offers incomparable rigidity without the weight It is however vulnerable to scratching and UV rays hence R D departments are already looking into alternatives that can deliver on the promise of an indestructible mechanical watch CODE 11 59 BY AUDEMARS PIGUET FLYING TOURBILLON FLYBACK CHRONOGR APH AUDEMARS PIGUE T PRESENTS A LIMITED EDITION IN WHITE AND PINK GOLD OF ITS FIRST CODE 11 59 SELF WINDING FLYING TOURBILLON FLYBACK CHRONOGR APH EQUIPPED WITH CALIBRE 2952 THE L ATEST AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT FROM THE BR AND IT COMBINES THE CL ASSICISM OF THE FLYING TOURBILLON WITH THE MODERNIT Y OF THE FLYBACK CHRONOGR APH THIS L AT TER COMPLICATION ENABLES THE USER TO RESTART TIMING WITHOUT FIRST RESE T TING TO ZERO A 65 HOUR POWER RESERVE AND WATER RESISTANCE TO 30 ME TRES ADD TO THE WATCH S SPORTING CREDENTIALS ESSENTIAL ELEMENTS OF THE MOVEMENT S 479 COMPONENTS ARE RE VE ALED THROUGH THE SAPPHIRE BACK INCLUDING THE OSCILL ATING WEIGHT WHOSE PINK GOLD ECHOES THE CASEBAND FOR E VEN GRE ATER REFINEMENT From here to eternity For a watch case or bracelet to survive the years unscathed hardness is a key factor Ceramic or more exactly zirconium oxide was used first by Rado in 1986 but truly earned its horological stripes with the launch of the Chanel J12 in 2000 then from 2005 Hublot s Big Bang Not bad for a composite originally developed for medical implants

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56 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 57 Because of its hardness only diamond can dent it ceramic provides durability without thickness while advances in colour chemistry have expanded the spectrum beyond just black and white The majority of high end sport watches have replaced fragile anodised aluminium bezel discs with ceramic Some such as the Omega Seamaster 300 feature a ceramic dial By injecting molten gold at high pressure into porous ceramic Hublot has created an exceptionally hard and precious alloy by the name of Magic Gold Beautiful ballet Van Cleef Arpels has taken inspiration from ballet for the stunning Lady Arpels Ballerines Musicales watches which it unveiled this year blending high horology music and movement For a century the Parisian firm has nurtured an affinity with the world of classical dance Louis Arpels accompanied by his nephew Claude was a regular at the Garnier Opera House a short walk from Place Vend me Claude who shared his uncle s interest in dance would become a close friend of the choreographer George Balanchine who co founded the New York City Ballet Inspired by Claude s jewellery and the beauty of gemstones Balanchine went on to produce Jewels a work in three parts that premiered at the New York State Theater in 1967 Each of the three acts associates a composer with a precious stone Gabriel Faur for Emeralds Igor Stravinsky for Rubies and Piotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky for Diamonds The trio of Ballerines Musicales watches transposes Balanchine s choreography to the realms of watchmaking with one in green tones another in red and the third in white blue and gold shades there is also a corresponding stone set in the crown Each recreates the three dimensional tableau of a curtained stage beneath a diamond chandelier beautifully brought to life by the craftsmen and women at Van Cleef Arpels With the press of a pusher the hand engraved curtains part and five miniature painted ballerinas pirouette across the dial At the same time the crystal tones of a melody performed by two instruments a musical box and a carillon are heard Thanks to their complementarity the carillon produces low sustained notes while the musical box plays short high notes the ear easily recognises themes by Faur Stravinsky and Tchaikovsky The case construction amplifies the melody which is transmitted through a diamond paved surface It took a full seven years to perfect the manual winding movement and the on demand animation Beautiful as objects in their own right the Lady Arpels Ballerines Musicales watches tell the time by a retrograde hand on a 12 hour graduated scale shown through a curved window at the top of the dial C R Of all the innovative materials rolled out in recent years synthetic sapphire sits at the summit of the luxury watch pyramid Developed in 1906 and used primarily for the crystal that protects the dial the first example of a sapphire crystal watch case is from 1996 After Guy Ellia then Harry Winston Richard Mille introduced an all sapphire case in 2006 Since its first sapphire case in 2016 Hublot has made this material a speciality of the brand after bringing the requisite machining technology in house and is now able to offer over a hundred high end sapphire cased watches a year The hardness and scratch resistance of sapphire which this year makes its debut at Louis Vuitton courtesy of the Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Poin on de Gen ve Sapphire has a trade off it is notoriously difficult to work with but worth the effort for the transparency that allows us to see into the heart of the watch s mechanism and admire the complex interweaving of dozens of tiny parts a distillation of human genius from every angle Still reserved for high end models given the benefits sapphire brings in terms of functionality and durability we can expect to see more of it across other price segments in the coming years I Shipshape and seaworthy For its 175th anniversary Ulysse Nardin presents seven new iterations of its Marine Torpilleur as a tribute to the marine chronometers of its founder II Marine chronometers were to eighteenth century navigators what GPS is to modern day explorers a means of positioning oneself that could make the difference between life and death Prior to their invention crews set sail with no means of calculating longitude at sea Mariners could plot their position by dead reckoning based on observation of the sun and stars but without a reliable instrument to precisely measure the time taken to sail between two points ships were in constant danger of drifting off course and becoming shipwrecked on the rocks that appeared in their path It wouldn t be before the end of the century that watchmakers on both sides of the Channel succeeded in making the robust and accurate marine chronometers that became a vital piece of equipment on the high seas III IIII geodesic institutes and astronomical observatories with his inventions Ulysse Nardin pocket chronometers were among the most coveted prized by naval officers and merchant captains the world over That such an instrument sold for one third the cost of a seaworthy vessel is an indication of how highly regarded they were what today we would call their perceived value Ulysse Nardin who set up his watchmaking business in 1846 in Le Locle Switzerland was heir to these early makers and no less of a pioneer He and his son PaulDavid Nardin forged a reputation as master makers of marine chronometers for naval forces the world over winning competitions for precision timekeeping and receiving commissions for their navigational instruments Ulysse Nardin went on to supply more than fifty navies A legacy continued The eponymous brand could not ignore such an extraordinary nautical legacy and in 1996 introduced its Marine collection More recently in 2017 Ulysse Nardin revisited the genre with a new generation of chronometers the Marine Torpilleur Named after torpedo boats torpilleurs that use their speed and agility to outmanoeuvre larger vessels this new execution is slimmer and lighter than its predecessors Seven versions are joining the collection this year These precision instruments are distinguished by a fluted bezel the classic elegance and precision of a railroad minute scale and Roman numerals a silicon balance spring for resistance to magnetic fields and an escape wheel and lever in DIAMonSIL a synthetic nanocrystal diamond grown around a silicon core On the Marine Torpilleur Grand Feu Enamel 42mm the small seconds indication incorporates a date display There is also an indicator for the 60 hour power reserve The Grand Feu enamel dial is handcrafted at Donz Cadran a specialist in enamel dial manufacturing that became a division of Ulysse Nardin in 2011 It comes as two limited editions with a blue Grand Feu enamel or varnished panda dial The Annual Chronograph 44mm is also presented as two limited editions with a blue or white varnished dial Fitted with the UN 153 movement it features a chronograph function with minute totalizer and small seconds combined with a pointer type month display The date for the annual calendar is at 6 o clock There are more white and blue dials for the Marine Torpilleur Moon Phases 42mm Last and most certainly not least is the Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu 42mm a limited edition of 175 pieces Cased in pink gold surrounding a Grand Feu black enamel dial it benefits from Ulysse Nardin s patented constant force tourbillon escapement a winner at the 2015 Grand Prix d Horlogerie de Gen ve This new Marine Torpilleur range is a worthy and handsome successor to the marine chronometers that set the brand on its path to excellence 175 years ago Christophe Roulet VAN CLE E F AR PE L S L ADY ARPELS BALLERINE MUSICALE MER AUDE WATCH I ROLE X OYSTER PERPETUAL COSMOGR APH MECHANISMS ASTRONOMICAL COMPLICATIONS LE T FROM THE BRIDGES TO THE BASEPL ATE OF THE MUSICAL BOX IS COMPOSED OF A TEN BL ADE KEYBOARD THAT IS PLUCKED BY PINS DAY TONA ROLE X PRESENTS THREE E XCLUSIVE PRECISION AND COMPACTNESS BOASTING 11 THE MOVEMENT THAT HAS BEEN SKELE TONISED POSITIONED ON THE HIDDEN UNDERSIDE OF THE ROTATING DISC FOR THE BALLERINA VERSIONS OF ITS OYSTER PERPE TUAL COSMO COMPLICATIONS IT IS THE FIRST WRIST WATCH TO THE E XTREME ANIMATION THE CARILLON S FOUR GONGS ARE STRUCK BY FOUR HAMMERS BOTH THESE GR APH DAY TONA THE BENCHMARK FOR FANS IN THE WOR LD TO DISPL AY INFOR MATION ON IIII SLIM D HERM S PERPETUAL CALENDAR THIS INSTRUMENTS ARE TUNED LIKE A PIANO TO PRODUCE A PITCH PERFECT MELODY THAT O F M OTO R R AC I N G A N D S P EED A L L T H R EE FOUR FACES PERPE TUAL CALENDAR IS A MONUMENT OF SIM PL AYS FOR BE T WEEN 20 AND 25 SECONDS SO AS TO RESPECT THE RHY THM OF E ACH FE ATURE A DIAL IN ME TALLIC ME TEORITE THIS I I I H U B LOT BIG BANG INTEGR AL TOUR BIL PLICIT Y SURROUNDED BY NUMER ALS IN PHILIPPE ARR ANGEMENT A CENTRIFUGAL REGUL ATION MECHANISM MAINTAINS CONSTANT SPEED R ARE E X TR A TERRESTRIAL MATERIAL MAKES A LON FULL SAPPHIRE HUB LOT C ONF I R M S ITS APELOIG S SPECIALLY DESIGNED TYPEFACE SUB ULYSSE NARDIN MARINE TORPILLEUR MOON PHASE 42 MM THE STARS AND ULYSSE NARDIN GRANDE COMPLICATION POCKET WATCH FROM 1920 FROM THE ULYSSE NARDIN MARINE TORPILLEUR TOURBILLON GR AND FEU 42 MM AT ULYSSE REGARDLESS OF THE TENSION IN THE ANIMATION BARREL THE STORY CONTINUES ON STRIKING BACKGROUND FOR THE BL ACK CHRON ADVANCED COMPETENCIES IN THE PRODUCTION DIALS FOR THE DATE MONTH AND LEAP YEAR AND PL ANETS HAVE NEVER CE ASED TO AROUSE THE CURIOSIT Y OF SCIENTIFIC MINDS TIME HE SET UP IN BUSINESS IN 1846 ULYSSE NARDIN SPECIALISED IN E XCEP NARDIN TOURBILLON CHRONOMETERS BUILD ON EXPERTISE THAT GOES BACK THE BACK OF THE WATCH WITH AN ENGR AVED BAS RELIEF OF A BALLERINA DANCING OGR APH COUNTERS AT 3 6 AND 9 O CLOCK AND MACHINING OF SAPPHIRE THIS BIG BANG SECOND TIME ZONE CIRCLE THE DIAL WHILE A FOR MARINERS THE SUN AND MOON WERE TOOLS FOR NAVIGATION AND UNDER TIONALLY PRECISE MARINE CHRONOMETERS THE BR AND WOULD ALSO BECOME TO THE L ATE NINE TEENTH CENTURY THE TOURBILLON WAS INSTRUMENTAL IN IN FRONT OF THE VAN CLEEF ARPELS BOUTIQUE ON FIF TH AVENUE IN NEW YORK I I J A E G E R L E C O U LT R E R E V ER S O H Y B R IS INTEGR AL TAKES THIS EXPERTISE TO ITS HIGHEST MOTHER OF PE ARL MOON TR AVELS ACROSS AN STANDING THE TIDES SINCE THE END OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY ULYSSE NARDIN KNOWN FOR ITS GR ANDE COMPLICATION WATCHES SUCH AS THIS PERPE T ADVANCEMENTS MADE IN TIMEKEEPING PRECISION ITS MAIN FUNCTION BEING TO MECHANICA CALIBRE 185 THIS NINETIETH ANNI CONCLUSION AS THE ENTIRE WATCH IS MADE AVENTURINE SK Y HAS BEEN MAKING MOON PHASE WATCHES A COMPLICATION AT THE HE ART OF UAL CALENDAR MINUTE REPE ATER FROM 1920 OVER THE DECADES THE BR AND COMPENSATE FOR ERRORS IN R ATE DUE TO THE EFFECTS OF E ARTH S GR AVIT Y ON VERSARY REVERSO IS A MASTERPIECE IN CHIMING FROM SAPPHIRE FROM THE CASE TO THE BR ACE ASTRONOMICAL INDICATIONS HAS GARNERED MORE THAN 4 300 DISTINCTIONS FOR ITS WATCHES INCLUD A MOVEMENT IN A VERTICAL POSITION SINCE 1983 UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF ROLF ING 18 GOLD MEDALS SCHNYDER WHO LED THE COMPANY FOR 30 YE ARS ULYSSE NARDIN HAS CARRIED ON THIS LEGACY ADDING TO THE LONG LIST OF WATCHMAKING INNOVATIONS

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58 WATCH YOUR TIME Good vibrations The rate or frequency of the regulation system in a mechanical watch is a matter of considerable importance for the simple reason that it determines timekeeping precision A movement that runs at 36 000 vibrations hour 5 Hz is accurate to one tenth of a second and is considered a high frequency calibre In which case how do we describe Frederique Constant s Slimline Monolithic Manufacture whose oscillator beats ten times faster than a conventional movement at 40 Hz 288 000 vibrations hour or 80 per second This world first constitutes a major breakthrough Until now this type of development has been limited to concept watches or at best extremely small series given the difficulties of adapting such a mechanism to industrial production Frederique Constant worked with Flexous to resolve the equation of a very high frequency oscillating system of a size compatible with a traditional movement configuration with 80 hours of power reserve and cost effective enough for large scale production Without going into too much technical detail the solution comes in the form of a flexible monobloc oscillator in silicon regulated by two weights Silicon provides numerous advantages in a mechanical movement It is anti magnetic unaffected by temperature variations less sensitive to gravity one reason being its light weight and functions without lubrication This still left the question of the base movement a traditional gear train cannot handle the breakneck speed of a 40 Hz regulator Frederique Constant s movement engineers thus designed an entirely new automatic calibre that is capable of performing at this very high frequency The brand s conclusion says it all the Slimline Monolithic Manufacture is a beautiful combination of classic watchmaking and hightech innovation C R FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 59 Forever young One of the challenges keeping materials scientists busy is the search for a material that is inexpensive to produce can be easily machined for series production and is sufficiently hard wearing to keep its fresh out of the box appearance for as long as possible Rado was among the first to test this equation with ceramic and also tungsten carbide Rolex chose 904L steel For brands that are prepared to invest heavily the new grail is for self regenerating materials that also withstand magnetic fields and are resistant to wear thus reducing the frequency of costly after sales service by qualified staff The specialists at Swatch Group for example have engineered alloys that have nothing to fear from even the most powerful magnetic forces Omega takes advantage of Liquidmetal and its properties for certain exposed components on its sports watches Others such as Panerai are testing ceramised aluminium an alloy that can match zirconium oxide for durability and lightness Chopard recently introduced a novel 70 recycled steel that was four years in development Guaranteed ethical Lucent Steel A223 is harder than any of the conventional steels used in watchmaking hence less susceptible to scratching and impacts Certainly less spectacular than a triple axis tourbillon these innovations have nonetheless proved essential to recent advances in the watch industry Often invisible some concern tribology oils and points of contact while new alloys for springs are adding years to a movement s lifespan and to warranties Miniature marvels Watchmaking s conversion to sustainability which coming from a low polluting industry could be taxed as environmental bandwagoning is I II IIII III F R D R IQ U E CON S TANT SLIMLINE MONOLITHIC MANUFACTUR E PR ESENTED I N I MONTBLANC1858 GEOSPHERE LIMITED EDITION HANDS OR DIAL THE HYPNOTIC DIAL MOTIF ON IIII RICHARD MILLE RM 40 01 THE LATEST WATCH A 40 M M RO U N D CAS E T H I S N E W WATC H F E AT U R ES A N E L EG A N T D I A L W I T H A MONTBL ANC HAS COME UP WITH AN ORIGINAL TH IS R A Z ZLE DA Z ZLE IS INSPIRED BY A CAM TO COME OUT OF THE COLLABOR ATION BETWEEN GU I LLOCH C LOUS DE PAR I S PAT TER N AN D PR I NTED RO M AN N U M ER A LS PA I R ED WORLD TIME INDICATION BY WAY OF T WO DOMED OU F L AG E PAT T ER N F OU N D I N N AT U R E T H AT R I CHAR D M I LLE AND M C L AR EN AUTOM OTIVE W I TH B R EGU E T ST Y LE H AN DS I N TH E C H AR ACTER I ST I C ST Y LE OF FR ED ER I Q U E SPHERES REPRESENTING THE NORTHERN AND WAS TR ANSPOSED TO BAT TLESHIPS AND L ATER THIS RM 40 01 TAKES ITS CUE FROM THE SPEED C ONSTANT S HE AR T B E AT THE H IGH FR EQUENCY OSC I LL ATOR I S SHOWN I N AN SOUTHERN HEMISPHERES E ACH MAKES A COM INCORPOR ATED INTO OP ART TAIL HYPERCAR THIS IS THE FIRST TIME THAT A A P ER T U R E AT 6 O C LO C K A DAT E D I S P L AY AT 12 O C LO C K F O R M S A C L AS S I C PLETE ROTATION IN 24 HOURS TO SHOW WORLD I I I LOU IS VU IT TON TAMBOUR SPIN TIME AIR RICHARD MILLE WATCH HAS COMBINED A TOUR COUNTER P O I NT ON THE RE VERSE S I DE A SAPPH I RE CASEBAC K OFFERS A C LE AR TIMES COMPLETED BY A DAY NIGHT INDICATION VIVIENNE LOUIS VUIT TON INTRODUCED US TO BILLON WITH AN INDICATOR FOR THE 50 HOURS VIE W OF THE AUTOMATIC FC 810 CALIBRE ITS TR ADITIONAL DECOR ATION COMBINES THIS LIMITED EDITION IS CASED IN BRONZE WITH VIVIENNE IN 2017 INSPIRED BY THE MONOGR AM OF POWER RESERVE AN OVERSIZE DATE AND A C TES DE GEN VE WITH PER L AGE THE OSC I LL ATI NG WEIGHT IS OPENWOR KED A BIDIRECTIONAL ROTATING BE ZEL FLOWER MOTIF AF TER APPE ARING AS A DECO FUNCTION SELECTOR THE S LI M LI N E M ONO LI TH I C M AN UFACTUR E C O M ES AS TH R EE LI M I TED ED I T I ONS II ULYSSE NARDIN FREAK X RAZZLE DAZZLE THE R ATIVE OBJECT JEWELLERY AND A BAG CHARM 810 PI ECES I N STAI N LESS STEEL WITH B LUE D IAL 810 PI ECES I N STAI N LESS STEEL FRE AK X IS WELL KNOWN FOR ITS HIGH FLYING THIS SWEET LIT TLE MASCOT IS BACK INSIDE THE WITH A S I LVER TONED D IAL AND 81 PI ECES I N 18 K PI N K GOLD MOVEMENT WHOSE ROTATING FLYING CAROU TAMBOUR WATCH WHERE SHE KEEPS TR ACK OF SEL SHOWS THE TIME WITHOUT THE TR ADITIONAL TIME WITH WHIMSY AND PRECISION Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Edition Chanel brings together the masculine codes of the Monsieur de Chanel watch with those of the J12 Superleggera a high performance chrono in ceramic and aluminium that debuted in 2005 This contemporary version of the Monsieur riffs on race car speed gauges The engine is Calibre 1 Chanel s first in house movement that delivers a comfortable three days of power reserve Instantaneous jumping hours appear in a large window at 6 o clock completed by retrograde minutes on a 240 scale and small seconds Visible through the sapphire caseback this manual winding movement lends itself admirably to this competition grade watch Chanel dresses this Monsieur in a matte black high resistance ceramic case with a 42mm diameter framing a guilloch black nickel dial and mounted on a black nylon strap with a red calfskin lining The Superleggera signature the 60 on the small seconds dial and the arrow pointer for the hours are all in racing red This Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Edition flexes just the right amount of muscle Elegantly styled it evokes the grand era of motor racing and a love of fine mechanics

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All you need to know about watches since the year 2000 60 WATCH YOUR TIME RUBRIQUE FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 61 also influencing research into materials Following in Chopard s wake Panerai s EcoTitanium case contains 80 recycled metal The Italian brand has also developed a stainless eSteel and produced an escapement from recycled silicon Ethical concerns are one of the reasons certain brands are patenting their own alloys Rolex has been using 904L steel rebranded as Oystersteel since 1985 Both Omega and A Lange S hne have developed their own gold alloys While we may be a long way from classic i e mechanical complications bringing these components and their intrinsic properties to market takes time investment and specialist competencies This is the price a brand has to pay if it is to convince buyers that indestructibility is more than simply marketing hype Environmental awareness shouldn t steal attention away from the fundamentals of watchmaking The one notable development of late is miniaturisation and the ongoing quest to create ever thinner calibres Of the handful of brands quietly working away to make the most efficient use of space inside Discover the 2020 2030 collection on the watch book com the few square centimetres of a watch case emulation between Piaget and Bvlgari has produced some extraordinary feats of engineering In Bvlgari s Octo Finissimo collection the Chronograph GMT Automatic as well as the Perpetual Calendar are nothing short of remarkable Piaget originally presented its Altiplano Ultimate as a concept watch Now in regular production in small quantities it is a pure masterpiece of creative thinking in microengineering In the same vein that gave us the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Triptyque this year s Reverso Quadriptyque is a reminder that with sufficient dedication and talent watchmakers can surpass the expectations of even the most demanding collectors with an array of complications in a case of supremely wearable dimensions These are in brief some the competencies at work behind the scenes of an industry which at its most consummate never fails to reinvent itself and year after year continues to astound us with mechanical magic Always one tick ahead Hublot proved early on that it loves art by welcoming street artists tattoo artists and visual artists into its family alongside stars from the world of music including DJ Snake who now gets his Big Bang I II III 2021 edition The art of time IIII I GIRARD PERREGAUX TOURBILLON WITH THREE ANISM IS TRIGGERED A SHIP S BELL APPE ARS IIII FREDERIQUE CONSTANT HIGHLIFE WORLD FLYING BR IDGES ASTON MARTIN EDITION IN AN APERTURE AT 12 O CLOC K THE AL AR M TIMER MANUFACTURE THIS WORLDTIMER DISPLAYS TH IS WATCH IS A CONTEM P OR ARY TAKE ON TIME IS SHOWN ON A SUBDIAL AT 3 O CLOCK THE TIME IN 24 TIME ZONES ON T WO ROTATING GIRARD PERREGAUX S SIGNATURE THREE BRIDGES WITH A SUBDIAL AT 9 O CLOCK FOR THE SECOND DISCS A CIT Y DISC AND A 24 HOUR DISC WITH POCKET WATCH FROM THE LATE 1800S A SAPPHIRE TIME ZONE DAY NIGHT INDICATION SELECTING A CITY USING CRYSTAL BOX IS FITTED ON EACH SIDE OF THE 44MM III PANER AI LUMINOR CHRONO MONOPULSANTE THE CROWN SYNCHRONISES THE DISCS TO SHOW CASE IN TITANIUM THE THREE BRIDGES IN TITANIUM GMT BLU NOT TE THIS WATCH ANNOUNCES PAN LOCAL TIME IN 24 CITIES WITH A BLACK PVD TREATMENT SPAN THE DIAL TO ER AI S RETURN TO CHRONOGR APHS AND IMME CRE ATE THE IMPRESSION THAT THE MOVEMENT DIATELY MAKES CLE AR ITS SPORTS PERSONALIT Y IS LEVITATING BET WEEN THE SAPPHIRE PANES WITH A 44MM MAT TE BL ACK CER AMIC CASE THE II BREGUET MARINE ALARME MUSICALE 5547 CHRONOGR APH PUSHER HAS BEEN MOVED TO BREGUET S MARINE COLLECTION INCLUDES THIS THE LEF T SIDE OF THE CASE CRE ATING VISUAL TRIPLE COMPLICATION OF AN AL ARM A SECOND BALANCE WITH THE CROWN GUARD ON THE OPPO TIME ZONE AND A DATE WHEN THE AL ARM MECH SITE SIDE Sometimes all it takes to deliver a message are a few well chosen words For example when you re told that Hublot Loves Art it means exactly that Nor is this a mere dalliance As Hublot reminds us the Art of Fusion is at the heart of all we do and so applies to our products R D as well as collaborations which helps explain the brand s deep and diverse portfolio of partnerships Artists have been at the forefront of these partnerships for close to a decade Hublot was quick to understand how collaborations with the art world could bring the brand closer to its core audience of younger watch buyers with their finger on the pulse of trends and intelligent enough to know the form these partnerships should take Rather than established institutions or major museums Hublot prefers to give a face to its collaborations and preferably that of a strong personality and talent in a contemporary discipline watchmaking would most certainly have remained an industry like any other Which it isn t While the meticulous work of craftsmen and women is still admired a new dimension has emerged in which the watch itself becomes an artwork a status more easily acquired when the timepiece in question results from a collaboration with a recognised artist Hublot takes us on a tour of street art with Tristan Eaton and Shepard Fairey tattoo art with Maxime Plescia B chi aka Sang Bleu sculpture with Takashi Murakami and Richard Orlinski storytelling art with Marc Ferrero cynical realism with Yue Minjun and kinetic art with the late Carlos CruzDiez all perfect fits for the brand Gaga Selena Gomez Diplo and Kanye West as well as awards from MTV NRJ Billboard Fun Radio plus two Grammy nominations When Hublot hosted a party to mark the end of the 2018 FIFA World Cup in Russia DJ Snake was behind the decks Watchmaking has everything to gain from an entente cordiale with the art world We often hear about the m tiers d art the crafts whose decorative outcomes impart warmth to the cold and clinical measurement of time Without this aesthetic dimension without creativity Here comes the music Alongside the visual arts music is another art form that is celebrated at Hublot The Chinese pianist Lang Lang is part of the Hublot family as is in an altogether different register DJ Snake an ambassador for the brand since 2018 An established figure on the EDM scene DJ Snake became a household name after the decade defining Turn Down For What released in 2013 And it snowballed from there with more hits such as Lean On and Loco Contigo collaborations with Lady Three years later Hublot is presenting the first watch to come out of this partnership the Big Bang DJ Snake The spectacular iridescent colours of the bezel and the six components of the 45mm titanium case are obtained using a process known as the Newton effect a technique similar to a black PVD treatment where each piece has to be held in a certain position to achieve the required colour Depending on the angle from which they are viewed and the direction the light is coming from the colours are never the same This already complex procedure has to be carried out with extreme precision to produce the same colour gradient on each of the 100 watches in this limited edition The bezel cut outs were chosen by DJ Snake who signs this watch with a world map in the case colours in the top part of the sapphire dial Visible beneath the dial is the Unico HUB 1242 flyback chronograph movement that stores 72 hours of power reserve Eric Dumatin DJ SNAKE M I LLI ONS OF PEOP LE AROUND THE WOR LD STR E A M THE M US I C HUBLOT BIG BANG DJ SNAKE THIS IRIDESCENT WATCH CHANGES COLOUR WHEN OBTAIN BLACK SMOKED ZONES VISIBLE THROUGH THIS SEMI TR ANSPARENCY IS OF DJ SNA K E WHO HAS TE A M ED UP WI TH HUB LOT FOR THE E XC LUS I VE B IG VIEWED FROM DIFFERENT ANGLES OR IN DIFFERENT LIGHTS SURFACES WERE THE UNICO FLYBACK CHRONOGR APH MOVEMENT WHICH DELIVERS 72 HOURS OF BANG DJ SNA K E THE FR ENCH DJ AND R EC OR D PRODUCER HAS DEC L AR ED HARDENED PRIOR TO THIS IRIDESCENT TREATMENT FOR A LONG LASTING FINISH POWER RESERVE THE BIG BANG DJ SNAKE COMES WITH TWO RUBBER STRAPS THAT H I M SELF THR I LLED BY TH I S OPP OR TUN I T Y TO C O M B I NE I NSP I R ATION WI TH THE WORLD MAP IN THE TOP PART OF THE SAPPHIRE DIAL CARRIES THE SIGNA ARE EASILY SWAPPED IN AND OUT THANKS TO THE PATENTED ONE CLICK SYSTEM THE E XPER TI SE OF THE SWI SS BR AND S I NCR ED I B LE WATCH M A K ERS AND TURE OF DJ SNAKE WHO HAS TR AVELLED THE WORLD FOR CONCERTS AND TO THE GREY BLACK AND VIOLET OF ONE ECHO THE MULTIPLE COLOURS REFLECTED TECHN I C I ANS RECORD HIS INTERNATIONAL HITS THE LOWER SECTION HAS BEEN TREATED TO BY THE WATCH S CASE THE SECOND HAS A RIDGED CONSTRUCTION IN BLACK

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62 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS WORLD PREMI RE Swiss connexion Swatch Group s long awaited connected watch is now a reality Entirely Swiss made the Tissot T Touch Connect Solar ticks all the boxes SYLVAIN DOLL A CEO TISSOT Tissot is more than capable of ambitious projects In fact one of its greatest strengths is its industrial might combined with the incredibly rich history of a company established in 1853 For Sylvain Dolla who left Hamilton to take over as Chief Executive of Tissot in 2020 both belong to Swatch Group the T Touch Connect Solar is typical of these ambitious industrial projects Swatch Group s answer to the electronics giants and their smartwatches it took four years to develop during which 35 patents were filed and warranted an investment of some 30 million Swiss Francs Even before his appointment at the head of Tissot Sylvain Dolla was already involved in the project It only needs charging once a year and even then only after heavy use We ve developed an energy efficient operating system that partly charges using the watch s photovoltaic cells We worked from the ground up with the intention of developing something different to what was already on the market As a watchmaker Tissot opposes planned obsolescence but does so using the very latest technologies There s a reason we call ourselves Innovators by tradition The T Touch Connect Solar is exactly that A combination of traditional timepiece and connected watch it offers autonomy design and durability Top tier Another standout feature of the watch is that it is entirely developed and made in Switzerland from the mechanical parts to the electronic components down to the SwALPS operating system Compatible with iOS Android and soon Harmony operating systems it was produced in collaboration with CSEM Swiss Centre for Electronics and Microtechnology in Neuch tel When online in addition to hours minutes and seconds through analogue hands smart notifications plus activity tracking are shown on the digital display in the bottom section Offline the watch has the same capabilities as the T Touch Solar Expert namely perpetual calendar countdown timing functions alarms meteo and altimeter Measuring 47mm in diameter in titanium with a ceramic bezel and with a water resistance rating of 100 metres the T Touch Connect Solar confidently asserts its sporty technical all terrain identity Aggressively positioned at a highly competitive price point the T Touch Connect Solar will incorporate new features going forward including a National Basketball Association app Tissot is official timekeeper of the NBA the first North American professional sports league to surpass one billion followers on social media These kinds of numbers are nothing out of the ordinary for Tissot With annual production of four million watches sales in excess of one billion Swiss Francs and 13 000 outlets worldwide including more than 200 wholly owned stores Tissot is one of Switzerland s biggest watch producers Its catalogue is ideally calibrated from pocket watches to sports watches from classic legacy models to the famous T Touch line delivering quality and affordability every time One of the latest releases the PRX Precise Robust water resistant to X ten bar captures this credo well Inspired by a Tissot from 1978 it is exactly the kind of luxury steel sports watch with integrated bracelet that the market loves right now And it won t cost you a year s salary With a quartz or a mechanical automatic movement the PRX 205 40 the original model s codename is a convincing example of reliability value and style Something Tissot does extremely well Eric Dumatin TISSOT T TOUCH CONNECT SOL AR THE T TOUCH CONNECT SOL AR CAP TURES RESE ARCH AND DE VELOPM ENT PROCESS OFFLINE THE T TOUCH CONNECT TISSOT PR X IN 1978 TISSOT RELE ASED A QUARTZ WATCH WITH A SLIM CASE T I S SOT S I N NOVATORS BY TR AD I T I ON PH I LOSO PHY I N AD D I T I ON TO TH E SOL AR HAS VIRTUALLY LI M ITLESS AUTONOMY IN CONNECTED MODE IT CAN NARROW INDICES AND A STEEL BR ACELE T A COUPLE OF YE ARS L ATER IT REG ESSENTIAL FUNCTIONS OF THE T TOUCH SOL AR E XPERT PERPE TUAL CALEN RE ACH UP TO SIX MONTHS DEPEND ING ON USE AND E XP OSURE TO THE SUN ISTERED THE PR X NAME PR FOR PRECISE AND ROBUST X FOR THE ROMAN DAR COUNTDOWN TIMERS AL ARMS ME TEO AND ALTIME TER IT INTRODUCES CHARG ING IS BY L ATEST GENER ATION PHOTOVOLTAIC CELLS THE T TOUCH NUMER AL CORRESPONDING TO 10 BARS 100 ME TRES OF WATER RESISTANCE FUNCTIONS SUCH AS AN ACTIVIT Y TR AC KER AND M ESSAGE AND CALL NOTIFI CONNECT SOL AR IS AVAI L AB LE IN SATIN FIN ISH TITAN I UM B L AC K P VD TITA THIS YEAR S PR X 40 205 A REFERENCE TO THE ORIGINAL S PRODUCT NUMBER CATIONS INFOR M ATION IS D ISPL AYED ON AN M I P M EMORY IN PIXEL SCREEN N I UM OR PIN K GOLD P VD TITAN I UM CASES ARE PAIRED WITH A RUBBER STR AP IS AN UP TO DATE VERSION OF THE 70S MODEL WITH THE CHOICE OF A QUARTZ WITH HIGH OUTDOOR VISIBILIT Y THIRT Y FIVE PATENTS WERE FILED DURING THE OR A TITAN I UM BR ACELE T MOVEMENT OR THE POWERMATIC 80 AUTOMATIC CALIBRE S L I M L I N E M O N O L I T H I C M A N U FAC T U R E 4 0 H Z 2 8 8 0 0 0 B E AT S H O U R 8 0 H R P O W E R R E S E R V E 100 ANTI MAGNE TIC frederiqueconstant com

WATCH YOUR TIME EUROPE UK 2021

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