SnapshotsinTimeCYPRIOT COMMUNITY IN LONDONTHEN AND NOWSnapshotsinTime.2 - 3 JUNE CYPRIOT WINE FESTIVAL & BUSINESS EXPO
In 1989 the Cyprus Centre (then at the Polytechnic of North London) documented the Cypriot community in London. Now the Cultural Section of the High Commission of the Republic of Cyprus in the UK and the Cyprus Centre (now at the University of Westminster) have revisited this material. We here present an exhibition of archive material, predominantly gathered in 1987-1990, together with comparative images depicting a modern revisiting of selected locations. These photographs help tell the story of the Cypriot community in London
OriginsOur story begins with emigration. The first serious influx of Cypriots occurred in the late 1920’s following the annexation of Cyprus as a Crown Colony. By the mid 1930’s some 3,000 Cypriots arrived, mostly men, and mainly to London. The war years brought a few more immigrants, again, mostly men but also some women who had married British servicemen. The 1950’s saw the arrival of the largest group of both male and female Cypriots. This was a guided migration because of the desire for cheap labour however some came for education and others because of the political situation in Cyprus. This group unlike previous waves of migrants, on the whole, tended to make good and prospered. A large proportion of this group of Cypriots stayed on then embarked on various careers and ultimately made Britain their home. Further waves of migrants, whether displaced by invasion or for economic reasons, added to the community. This had traditionally grown primarily in those areas to the north of London such as Islington, Camden and Haringey.
Early MigrantsImages taken from originals kindly supplied by families at time of original exhibition
The community of the Early to Mid-CenturyImage taken from original kindly supplied by family at the time of original exhibition
Images taken from originals kindly supplied by families at the time of original exhibition
Images taken from originals kindly supplied by families at time of the original exhibition
The community in the 1980’s
The High StreetIn the 1960’s the Cypriot community began infiltrating the traditional British high street shop so establishing a variety of shops. These shops ranged in provision to include those supplying groceries, as well as delicatessens, wine supermarkets, music/video shops, travel agencies and garden centres.
Image taken from original kindly supplied by family at the time of original exhibitionGrocery shops and restaurants brought the tastes and smells of Cyprus to their community and introduced or reminded the wider travelling British palette of sunnier climes. Some of these products were imported from Cyprus while others were manufactured by Cypriot firms in Britain.
By the 1980’s many of these were well established and a firm fixture on the High Street.Establishments bore the names of the proprietor or nostalgically reflected the town or village of origin of those first generation Cypriot whose emotional attachment to those places remained strong. Several also were named after favoured football clubs!
Catering In catering, businesses as seen on the High Street varied from the humble café and fish and chip shop to the kebab houses (appearing in Camden Town in the late 1950’s) to high class restaurants in Soho and Mayfair. They were also to be found outside London particularly in Glasgow, the Midlands and in seaside resorts. By the 1980’s there were a very large number of restaurants owned and managed by Cypriots throughout the UK.
The success of the fish and chip shop in particular showed the community’s adaptability and ability to penetrate and assimilate in an area previously unknown to them.
Church and EducationFrom the very early days the community used the Church, not only as a place of worship, but also as a venue of cultural and social life. As the community expanded the Greek Orthodox Cathedral of St Sophia could not meet all their needs so new churches were acquired.These remained prominent in many London neighbourhoods and were noted, not only for their religious role, but also for their input in community education and welfare.
Greek SchoolThe Greek schools flourished, offering lessons on a Saturday, they provided a Greek education to the second generation Cypriots. Now the children of those first generation Cypriots could be taught to read and write Greek in addition to speaking the language at home.Classes were popular across age groups from the very youngest to older students.
Cypriot YouthThe Cypriot youth of the day achieved success both within and outside the community. They established their own clubs and youth centres and enjoyed the support of local authorities and other community organisations.Their activities ranged from education and sport to social functions. Significantly all encompassed the values of both their Cypriot background as well as their local community.
The community had also developed and cultivated its own cultural activities bearing a strong and natural affinity with Cyprus. These activities were aimed primarily at the community but in several instances, at the British public also. The facilities available to the community enabled it to develop culturally in a wider sense. This was particularly evident amongst its younger members.
The Rag TradeThe early stages of the rag trade were difficult and were built entirely on the hard work of the womenfolk. These women, the machinists, were later joined by their menfolk and together they developed what became the backbone of the then flourishing rag trade economy. Image taken from original kindly supplied by family at time of original exhibition
Images taken from originals kindly supplied by families at time of original exhibition
By the late 1960’s Cypriots had established themselves as large-scale manufacturers supplying major stores in the UK. They also developed important export drives and investments overseas.
Media From the early days the community strove to keep abreast with its own news from Cyprus. Over the years, several newspapers were published in the Greek language despite enormous financial and distributional difficulties.With good air transport, newspapers from Cyprus circulated daily and in large numbers. The community newspapers also included English language sections for the benefit of the second and third generation Cypriots. Correspondingly, an English language magazine addressed not only the community but also the wider British public. Cypriot journalists regularly contributed to British newspapers and magazines as well as to radio and TV.
Radio, Music and VideoAt that time a community radio (LGR) had come into recent operation. It was hoped that it would play an important role within the community.To further connect the community with popular culture, several music and video stores specialising in Greek and Cypriot output were in evidence on the High Street.
Culture and the ArtsIn the field of the Arts, noteworthy strides were made in several areas including architecture, sculpture, painting, photography, film production, stage design and graphics.
Medicine, Science and TechnologyWithin scientific fields there were important contributions especially through academics in medicine, the natural sciences and information technology.
Many Cypriots also joined the ranks of healthcare professionals in the field of medicine, optometry and dentistry.
Banking Business progress led to the establishment of branches of major Cypriot banking houses in London and elsewhere. They featured prominently in the High Street.
Service IndustriesIn the service industries community activities were both varied and successful. In some cases, such as shipping, travel and hotels, contributions to the overall British scene met a level of success beyond the bounds of the community’s numerical strength.
The travel business not only provided a service to the community, but also successfully promoted Cyprus tourism to the wider British public.
THEN AND NOWThe changing outward face of the community
The 29 bus, omnipresent in the life of the community still snakes its passage through those familiar haunts. But now it is to those further reaches that many travel. Leafier suburbs and other towns and cities beckon from Southgate, Enfield and beyond.
Shop ownership and clientele have changed over the decades.Some shops retain their function but have changed hands many times.
Andrews Opticians is now Green Lanes Eyecare Centre. The shop front remains much the same but now gives no indication of the proprietor.
The Banking SectorThe banking sector has undergone a diminishing presence on the High Street. Once a common sight on many corners, those strongholds of the community have also faced change.In Holloway the once bustling Cyprus Popular Bank has changed hands several times since its closure. Currently it has transitioned into a street food market.
The Cyprus Popular Bank morphed into the Laiki Bank long before its demise. In Haringey, vaults once housing the savings of local Cypriots now hold the takings of a betting shop chain.
N Salamis FC also moved out many years since but the adjoining Yasir Halim still provides those delicacies to tempt Cypriot palettes.
Pafitis Grills has long since departed but this building still provides sustenance to the locals now via a pizza chain.
A nod towards the community is evident in the script appearing on some businesses on Green Lanes. Not as bountiful as before, these instances are generally also paired with Turkish translations.
While the snooker club remains (even retaining its signage), Eurostiles is now a Tesco while the café is currently a charity foundation.
The Haringey stretch of Green Lanes has changed over the decades with many Cypriot businesses making way for other waves of migrants such as Turkish Kurds and Eastern Europeans. Those familiar shops such as Barnaby’s and Halepi tempting passers-by with their bakery treats have long ceded their sites to others.
The rag trade has seen a seismic change in the intervening decades. Much has now gone and many buildings, once a hive of activity, are now being converted into flats. Florentia’s outward appearance is much the same, even retaining Cypriot names, but its function has changed markedly.
The painted Doric columns on the Omega Works building have faded and with many businesses moved out, the site is now for sale.
Some businesses in the area do continue to trade.
Other familiar shops are closing their doors for the last time. The transformation of Haringey is almost complete as those old establishments close and shop fitters move in to remove those last vestiges of what came before. However, moving further outwards, as Green Lanes enters Palmers Green, a stronger visible presence remains.
The faded sign sellotaped to the window of Pentadaktylos seeking a waitress has gone as has the café, its clientele having dwindled markedly over the years. It is now in the process of conversion to a taco restaurant.
Pockets exist. Apollo’s Estate Agency is visible in situ with a good presence on-line.
Not all have remained so evident. Across the road Alpha Let, tucked into a corner by the railway bridge now advertises its own building for let. Its windows once advertising local rooms now displays prices for the café within.While not as prominent on Green Lanes as before, it too retains a good on-line presence.
The church continues to provide for the spiritual and pastoral needs of the community. Cypriots, across the generations, may not be as visible or outward facing as once before but the church acts as a beacon drawing church-going members of the community through its doors.
Nicholas Printers tucked away on a narrow passage off Green lanes still advertises its services in both English and Greek. Its outward appearance has changed little over the intervening decades.
A closer look at an older sign behind the coral coloured Nicholas Printers signage reveals an artistic script advertising Baldwins’ Butchers. This English butcher’s shop has moved a few doors down where it sells many Cypriot staples as well as those meaty mainstays of Cypriot cuisine.
A Cypriot florist sharing shop space has now become a permanent feature on Green Lanes.
Charlie’s fruit and veg stall remains on the Seven Sisters Road in Holloway offering an eye-catching range of fruits.
Michael’s too has remained a fixture in Holloway supplying a range of groceries as well as fresh fruit and veg.
Some businesses have continued through the generations. A Cypriot key cutter and locksmith can still be found at work in the Nag’s Head, Holloway.
The community has come a long way in the three decades and more since the original exhibition. It will be fascinating to see how far the community advances in the next few decades.
AcknowledgementsThis exhibition would not be possible without generous support of the A.G. Leventis Foundation to whom we extend our unwavering thanks. Grateful thanks are also due to the Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports and Youth – Cultural Services, Cyprus for providing additional sponsorship.We would also like to acknowledge with thanks Nigel Harris whose extensive photographs taken on behalf of the Cyprus Centre during 1987 - 90 provide the backbone of this exhibition. Digitalisation of the originals and additional contemporary images were provided by Sebastian Rezai. Original research into the community was conducted by Prof John Charalambous, George Hajifanis, LitsaKilonis and Jackie Morgan. Additional research and text was supplied by Dr Alicia Chrysostomou. The “Snapshots in Time” webpage was created by the Cultural Section of the High Commission of the Republic of Cyprus, under the curation of Cultural Counsellor, Dr Marios Psaras.