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Technical Dossier TAILORING FASHION ATELIER MARIA HAKALA

CONTENTS 1 2 INTRODUCTION 3 DRAPING 3 THE COAT 7 THE TROUSERS 9 12 TOILE 13 15 FINAL GARMENTS COAT 43 TROUSERS 49 EVALUATION

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CONCEPT The concept of deconstruction architechture and Russian Soviet union military wear combined to create a modern design with traditional tailoring technigues The concept of deconstructivism where the form is following the idea and design rather than function rejects the the thought of a perfect form as well as destroys the dominance of the right angle and the cube by using the diagonal line and the slice of space To contrast to that Russian military wear is minimal and simple due to not having enough resources to redress all the army forces during WW1 to WW2 Using mostly ideas of deconstruction with the visuals of military wear and combining both of the aestethics into design I was able to create contemporary design 2

DRAPING THE COAT When I started draping I didn t have much knowledge about what I was supposed to do because I unfortunately had to miss the two lessons where tha exact topic was teached By using general draping knowledge and asking help from fellow students and tutors I managed to make a drape of a main body that I was able to work with First of all I put on a regular shoulderpad for tailoring following the intructions given us After marking the centre of the shoulderpad I placed it on the natural shoulder lie and then displaced the style line 2 cm to the back After that I added style lines according to my design On the design I have two different assymetric sides 3

To save time and fabric I marked both sides of the design on the same drape On the side panel at first I wanted to drop the armhole too low 7cm but after help of the tutors and more consideration I decidet to bring it more up 4cm for a nicer look from the back is just a classic back with slight shaping on the back seam The overall shilouette of the jacket was drapet very straight only with some slight shaping around the waist 4

5 When I was draping the collar I decided to make it higher that usual Reason for that desicion is the fact that the coat is outerwear for colder climats so that way the neck will stay warm and safe from a windy weather I could not get the shape correctly at first

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THE TROUSERS What comes to trousers I used a block pattern method The design is a highwaisted simple sthraight trouser with an overlapping piece on top with a ankle lenght pant leg I highered the waist by 10 cm and added a 4 cm waist band On the toiling process I decided not to lover the crotch because of the high waist which ended up making the crotch area too tight 7

Every other design detail was very standard that made it easy to do According to what we have learned in the class I also made the hem of the pant leg slimmer by 2 cm at the front and 3cm at the back Lastly I drew the overlapping piece on top of the front piece to follow the same line of the side seam 8

TOILE THE COAT 9

For the coat there was couple issues to fix The overlapping strap was changed to be higher and more narrow also the sleeve was changed to be more narrow towards the end The lapel was changed to be slightly bigger aswell Also the hem got longer After the changes I retoiled it and we added couple small changes on the left front peice We changed the lenght a little bit more and changed tha angle of the curve 10

The trousers appeared to bee too tight and the waist was too high so I lowered it Becuse the trousers were so tight I actually made the pattern wider by 2 3cm The overlapping piece wasnt sitting very well either so I redraped it on retoile to get the correct pattern shape 11

TOILE THE TROUSERS 12

FINAL GARMENTS 13

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THE COAT 15

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While cutting the fabric pieces I tried to match the herringbone pattern as well as I could To make that happen I would cut one piece and put it on top or next to a another one to see that the pattern will match another piece After cutting out all the pieces I started padstitching the floating chest piece at home to save time While being at uni I did as much sewing work as I could by Alans guidance First I sewed the back and sleeves after what I canvased the fronts 17

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For the fronts I created a pocket wrom where I intentionally left out the facing so the red pocket lining will show as a contrasting design element Same I did with all the salicia that I used on the inside of the jacket 19

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After adding the canvas to front pieces I cross stitched the salicia on the edge and sewed a piece of it on the floating chest piece aswell after what I padstitched the collar While stitching the collar at home I noticed that I was stitching at the wrong angle at first but changed it afterwards after noticing 22

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After adding all the salicia on the edges I sewed another strip at the edge of the floating chest piiece and padstitched the lapel while attaching the full body canvas to the floating chest piece and creating a roll on the lapel Unfortunately I didn t notice right away that I was pad stitching at the wrong agnle and it affected to the roll of the lapel Despite thewt I still managed to create a roll and pressing it really helped at the end 24

25 Next step was adding the facing To keep the facing still while machining it it needed to be basted first After nachine stitching I turned it over and basted right at the edge to keep the seams in place while working on the rest of the coat

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29 Next step is to pad stitch the undercollar creating a roll After padstitching it I pressed it flat and trimmed the edges by cutting the canvas 1cm smaler then the fabric piece After that I turned over the seam and basted it down on the side that attaches to the coat I the coat on the stand and placed the collar on it and basted it on Then I sewed the top collar to the bottom collar and basted the edge the same way as previously with the fasing

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After putting the collar in I added the sleeves with the epaulettes With Alans help I basted them first so I could distribute the fullnes in a sleeve cap so the sleeve would drape down nicely After that I machined the sleeve on added the shoulderpads and the sleeve roll 36

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After putting in the sleeves I pinned and basted the lining for the main body and sleeve lining after that I had some problems with the fit of the lining at first because it was pulling on the sides After figuring out the fit and the drape of the lining I neatly handstithed all edges 39

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THE TROUSERS 43

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When I started making trousers there was not that much time left Fabric of my choice appeared to fray very easily so I overlocked all the edges Because of the design the sewing order was a bit more different from how trousers are usually made first I sewed the pockets and then left side seam first and then the inner leg seams After what i sewed in the waist band that I basted with canvas and then the zipper with the french bearer and then the last side seam with the overlapping piece As finishing touches I handstitched the waistband from the inside 45

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SELF EVALUATION Biggest problem I had in this unit was my time management Big amout of stress in november and not being able to deal with it correctly has affected my ability to schedule own work correctly so I would be able to finish everything in time and to the point where I would be pleased with everything as well What comes to work itself I am pleased with the coat only thing that was missing there was a button hole and a button on the back for the strap What comes to trousers I am very dissapointed with the fit and some of my decisions with the construction If I would have spend more time thinking through about them while making the pattern for them and propably asked for more assistance as well Time management affected to the book work aswell and I wasn t able to finish it properly 49