Chelsey Diedrich & Bryce Wagner
Use "ram head" technique to wedge clay by folding and squishing it.
*This step is very important because you need to get all of the air bubbles out of the clay. If you don't, while going through the kiln, the air bubble(s) will expand in your project and damage it.
Use rolling pin to roll clay into a thin slab. Base should then be cut from your slab. (1/2in. thick MAX)
Roll out a coil, being sure to keep its thickness even throughout.
*Be sure to maintain moisture level while working with clay. If it's too wet your project with collapse. If too dry it will crack.
Form the coil to your desired shape. You must then score your base and the coil.
*At any area where you need to connect the clay you must score it first.
Apply slip to scored areas, and connect the coil to the base. To strengthen the join, use modeling liner to knit it together. Smooth the knitting marks made by the tool using the wipe away tools.
Be sure to add a reinforcement coil at the base. When your project becomes taller it will need that support. Repeat steps 3-5 as desired.
*As it becomes taller make sure that the more bottom layers don't have a lot of moisture, but it still needs some. This is called the leatherhard stage.
When your vessel is complete let all the moisture dry out of it until it's bone dry. (Greenware)
You can now sand your project. This smooths rouch edges and gives it a finished touch. Then fire it through the kiln for a bisque fire at cone 04/1940°
When you take your bisqueware out of the kiln you then need to rinse it to get off left over clay dust. It is now time to glaze it. After glazing it will be glazeware.
You can now put it through the kiln for a glaze fire at cone 05-06/1915°
*Projects can be either functional or decorative.