Lash Styling Beauty Book : simplebooklet.com

LASH MAPPINGINTRODUCTIONThere’s much more in a lash world than mastering and understanding the skill of how to successfully apply eyelash extensions to natural lashes. With lash mapping, you have the power to customize different looks and shapes for all of your clients. You want each and every lash client to feel the look they received has been customized only for them. Each style you choose must complement the client’s features.Eyelash mapping will help you to ensure that your set of lashes comes out symmetrical and most importantly suits your client’s eye shape. Lash mapping is a technique when you have to consider the lengths, curls, and thicknesses you will use to create a unique set of eyelash extensions with the style that your client desires3

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IMPORTANCE OF MAPPINGIMPORTANCE OF STYLINGLash mapping is a key factor to offering your clients the perfect and symmetrical set of lash extensions. With lash mapping, you have the power to customize different looks and shapes for all of your clients. On your lash map, you can see exactly where you have to use the exact length. You want each and every lash client to feel the look they received has been customized individually for them based on facial features and desired look.NATURAL LASH CONDITIONAmount of natural lashes are they healthy or weak,long or short, curly or straight etc.EYE SHAPE AND FACIAL FEATURESUpturned eyes, downturned eyes, small, deep, or wideset etc.CLIENT’S WISHES AND DESIRED LOOKBy asking the right questions during the consultation,you can help your clients make the right decisions.CREATES SYMMETRYLash mapping and styling creates smooth transitionsof lash lengths not just on one eye but on both eyes tocreate a symmetrical nal look4

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No matter what style lash map you are using, with any lash set, begin by nding and marking out the middle of the eye so that your set issymmetrical across both eyesUsually, a beginner lash artist’s mistake is that the middle of the eye isconsidered the middle of the lash line.You have two options:• To nd the middle of an eye you can ask your client to sit but you stand in front of your client. Ask to look right in the middle of your eyebrows (not following the motion of your hands). Use a very thin, washable lash marker and mark a dot on the client’s eyelid right above the pupil.• When the client’s eyes are closed, nd where the iris sits. You can ask the client to move the iris a little bit so you can see where it rests. In the middle mark a line from this point outwards.Never use excessively long lengths in the inner corners.The inner corner of the eye will always be short. You shouldn’t place heavy lashes in the inner corners because you don’t want to overload inner corner lashes.Never skip lengths.For example, when you start with 7mm following 8mm, and then suddenlyjump to 10mm. Never skin lengths in between it will cause an uneven lash line look.RULES AND TIPSTo understand the mapping process you have to start with section understanding.5

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Never use excessively long lengths in the outer corner lashes.You shouldn’t place heavy lashes in the outer corners because you don’t want to overload outer corner lashes. The same as with the inner corner.Always nish the outer corner with a longer length than the inner corner.The inner corner of the eye will always be short. So if you start your lash map with 7mm never nish the lash map on the outer corner shorter than 8mm. If nished with a shorter length than you started in the inner corner that will result in a down-turning or drop effect.Work with at least four lengths on the eye.(For Advanced/Custom setsWorking with only one, two, or three lengths will not complement the eye. The more lengths you will use for one eye - the more precise and smooththe nal result will be.Choose longest length based on natural lash safety.Remember, when using lashes that are longer than 3mm past the natural lash, the natural lash will twist and break as it grows out. Too long lash extensions can cause permanent damage to the natural hair follicle that intime will result in shorter and weaker lashes.Most of the time clients want the longest lashes but are dreaming about afuller look as well. Remember, the closer we stay to a client’s natural lash length - line appears fuller. If your client wants fullness, explain that to create fullness, especially with a classic lash application, since we are limited to the number of natural lashes they have, best to use shorter lengths to create an illusion of fuller natural lashes6

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ADVANCED TECHNIQUE FOR EXPERIENCED ARTISTS ONLY• 0.03 Mega or Russian volume application• 0.05 -0.07-ultra-ne extensions (2-8 extensions can be applied to one natural lash) • 0.10-ne extensions (2-3 applied to one natural lash - used for advanced technique of capping and stacking).CLASSIC APPLICATIONVOLUME APPLICATION• 0.10-ne extensions one applied to one natural lash - used for ne natural lashes.• 0.12 -suitable for clients with thin and weak natural lashes• 0.15-suitable for clients with healthy natural lashes• 0.18-suitable for clients with natural solid lashes• 0.20 - suitable for clients with extra intense natural lashes rarely used -heavyLENGTHSLengths like width drastically change the end result of eyelash extensions. If you only rely on long extensions, you are not using your full creative ability. On the market today extensions can measure from 6mm to 18mm. While natural lashes can range from shorter then 6 mm in the antagen passage and longer. As a professional lash extension artist you need to follow a standard of length just like width. To safely extend the natural lash you should aim to apply extension no longer than 2-4mm longer than the natural lash. Lengths much longer than a natural lash can distort the face, add too much weight, can and will twist, look unnatural, and ultimately pull the natural lash out.7

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A GENERAL RULE TO ASSESS THE CORRECT LENGTH TO APPLY SO• 1-2mm longer than the natural lash for a natural look• 3-4 mm longer than the natural lash for a dramatic lookA GENERAL RULE TO ASSESS THE CORRECT DIAMETER TO APPLY:(CLASSIC APPLICATION)• 0.10-ne extensions one applied to one natural lash - used for ne natural lashes. • 0.12-suitable for clients with thin and weak natural lashes• 0.15-suitable for clients with healthy natural lashes• 0.18-suitable for clients with natural solid lashes• 0.20-suitable for clients with extra strong natural lashes rarely used -heavy(VOLUME APPLICATION)ADVANCED TECHNIQUE FOR EXPERIENCED ARTISTS ONLY• 0.03 Mega or Russian volume application• 0.05-0.07-ultra-ne extensions (2-8 extensions can be applied to one natural lash)• 0.10-ne extensions (2-3 applied to one natural lash - used for the advanced technique of capping and stacking).To measure for length, lie the client down, perform your lash bath and prep, then thoroughly dry the natural lash. Then on each eye, try and locate one lash at each stage of lash growth. Then hold an extension against the natural lashes to determine their relative diameter. Try and get very close to the lash line for the best results. You can only do the same for diameter; however, you would need to place the extension next to and underneath the lash to see if it’s a good t. As your skills improve, and so does your experience, you can adjust your rules to t your knowledge level and your hands-on client experience.8

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“Your goal should be to avoid enhancing anything the client does not love about their features and to correct wherever you can to create balance and symmetry.”ROUND FACES are as wide as they are long, and generally, when looking at this face shape, you can see the area evenly ll a circle, which means not too much to one side top or bottom. A round shape has no sharp lines and tends to look round and heavy.AVOID: Round brows attributes like round-shaped brows or overlining lips to make a rounder puffy lip. These can make your face appear even rounder.CORRECTION: In terms of eyelash extensions, some key styles are open eye as opening the eye with longer extensions focused on the middle of the lash line will draw the eye up, eloelongate face, and reduce the wide appearance. To enhance your face shape and create the illusion of length, keep your brows soft and slightly curved, add extra length on the tails, and make sure to have height at the arch of the brows. By having a higher, sharper arch, you’ll lift your features upwards rather than outwards.OVAL FACES When the forehead is slightly wider than the chin, can have prominent cheekbones, and the face sometimes gently tapers to a soft curve on the sides. If so you have an oval face shape. One of the most versatile of all face shapes, all you have to do is to work with the dimensions of your face for a natural and most attering shape! The key to an oval face is maintaining the balance already present.OBLONG/LONG FACES Long, oblong, or rectangular face shapes have foreheads, cheekbones, and jawlines that are generally about the same width.AVOID: Styles with spikes or longer lengths in the inner corner (reverse cat-eye) or dramatic curls will draw the eye upward, making the oblong face seem longer.CORRECTION: Create the illusion of a wider forehead by using longer lengths at the ends to create a cat-eye look.SQUARE FACES Those with square faces will have their forehead, cheekbones, and jawline be about the same width and similar to the oblong face shape but, the squared jawline will be the clients most prominent feature.AVOID: Picking a style based solely on the face shape as you cannot trick the eye enough with lashes alone on a square.10

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CORRECTION: No one solution based on face shape alone. The eye shape will determine the best style and the client’s other features like eyebrows and hair cut. As well as if they want to focus on shaping the face more to create an angler line or make a face seem softer overall.HEART-SHAPED FACES have many similarities to oval faces, with the exception of the tapered chin. In a Heart-Shaped client, you will notice how the chin comes to a sharp point. If not balanced well with eyebrows or hairstyles, the client’s forehead can also seem to be wider.AVOID: Traditional Cat-eye styles, as the longer lengths will widen the forehead.CORRECTION: First, you must determine if the client wants to highlight or reduceeither the forehead or the chin’s sharp angle. Then you can either work with styles that will reduce the forehead width, like a reverse cat-eye, or even a short to the medium doll (open eye).DIAMOND-SHAPED FACES Often mistaken for a square or heart-shaped face.Diamond-shaped faces are angular like the other faces shapes, but Like the other two, the forehead is shorter, and the face is often widest at the temples instead of the forehead. The chin is pointed but less so than in the heart shape.AVOID: Further lengthening the face shape by adding height in the middle of the eyelash line.CORRECTION: Don’t apply any sharp lines. Allow the lash lengths to gradually change so that the eye looks softer and the face looks rounder.Let’s recap the six main face shapes. Your client will have one of the ve faces: Round, oval, oblong, Square, Heart, or diamond. Each face shape has certain parameters that dene what you can expect to see and what lines and angles you may want to spotlight or conceal. Each of these shapes is beautiful. No face shape is better than the others, and it is important to consider each client’s face shape, personal style, hair cut, eyebrow shape, and eye shape when deciding on what lash extension style you are going to perform.WHEN LASHING CONSIDERING FACE SHAPES, EYE SHAPES, AND THE CLIENT’S OVERALL GOAL WHEN SELECTING EXTENSION STYLES ALONG WITH FACE SHAPE WILL MAKE YOU A STAND OUT LASH ARTIST.11

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EYE SHAPESALMONDEvery client has a beautiful and unique eye shape. With lash extensions, there is no one-size-ts-all and you should be able to create a unique set of lashes according to the client’s eye shape and preferences. No matter what shape is it, it’s important to take into account the shape of your client’s eyes to ensure that you create a lash look that truly compliments them.Figure out the eye shape and then map accordingly.Almond eyes are the most symmetrical of all eye shapes. Eyes are about twice as wide as it is high, which means they are more visually proportionate than other eye shapes. Most styles and curls compliment this eye shape( as long as there are no other features to consider, for example, downturned corners or heavy eyelids).One of the most popular picks for almond-shaped eyes is lash extensions with CAT EYE or OPEN/DOLL EYE mapping but you can play around with different styles as long as it compliments the client’s eye shape. 13

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ROUNDHOODEDThey are naturally very open and because they can look quite dramatic on their own, due to their shape and size, the actual extensions should not be as extreme. Try to add length to the outer corners and elongate the eyes but be very careful, it’s very easy to make outer corners appear downturned.Most of the natural lashes of hooded (including monolid and Asian) clients tend to grow downward as their heavier eyelids press the roots of natural eyelashes. One of the most popular picks for open-shaped eyes is lash extensions with a NATURAL mapping with lifting effect or SQUIRREL. Try to avoid rounding effects and cat-eye, fox-eye mapping where the longest length is positioned more in the outer corner. If the client has a heavier and droopy eyelid positioned in the outer corner you can use SQUIRREL or any lifting effect to hide it. If the eyelid is heavier in the middle of the eye use DOLLY or opening effect.14

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DOWNTURNEDUPTURNEDA downturned eye is the opposite of an upturned eye, instead of the outer corners pointing up they slope down. If you are not sure, imagine drawing a straight line across the eye. If the outer corners of the eye point down beneath the line, then it is downturned eyes.Upturned is the opposite of downturned. Do the same - imagine drawing a straight line across the eye. If the outer corners of the eye point up the line, then it is the upturned eye. The outer corners of the upturned eye will always be higher than the inner corners. If the wrong lash style is used downturned eyes can give a sad or tired eye effect. One of the most popular picks for down-turned-shaped eyes is lash extensions with SQUIRREL mapping. Focus on the longest length in the area you want to lift. One of the most popular picks for upturned-shaped eyes is lash extensions with CAT EYE or SQUIRREL mapping. EYE ANGLEEYE ANGLE15

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WIDE SETCLOSE SETWide set eyes are more than one eyeball width apart.For clients with a wide set of eyes our aim is to visually bring the eyes closer to each other to create the illusion of a proportional set.Close-set eyes are less than one eyeball width apart. You should try to make the distance between the eyes look wider.One of the most popular picks for wide-set-shaped eyes is lash extensions with a SQUIRREL or DOLLY mapping. Try to avoid Cat-eye mapping and B, L curls. If doing a volume set you can try to make a fuller inner part of the eye and lighter on the outer corner.Try to use lengthening or lifting effects to make the eyes visually wider. If doing a volume set you can try the opposite of wide-set to make a fuller outer corner and lighter volume in the inner part of the eye.EYE SPACING16

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BIG EYESSMALL EYESWorking with big eyes we work with longer lengths. For example, if the longest length is 12mm use 13mm/14mm. On big eyes, all lengths will appear shorter than it actually is. Always use 1-2mm longer lengths than you would use usually.When working with small eyes the goal is to make them look visually bigger and more open. Try to use (if the eye shape is suitable) opening effects, like Open/Dolly and stronger curls CC, D, DD. Be very careful with extension lengths, if you will use too long extensions for small eyes they can appear even smaller and heavier.SIZE OF THE EYES1717

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The type of lash extensions and curls you use with your clients depends not only on the looks they’re going for but on what type of natural lashes they have. Your clients’ natural lash types can make a big difference. They can rule out some kinds of lash curls, or necessitate specic curl types.GROWING STRAIGHTIf natural eyelashes grow straight best if you will use curls like C/CC/D, they will suit your client better. Basically, you can use every curl but keep in mind that if you use a stronger curl like DD on the straight natural lash retention will not be as good as with softer curls (because of the attachment zone).GROWING DOWNWARDSIf natural eyelashes grow down best if you will use stronger curls likeD/CC/M, they will suit your client better. As lashes are growing down, any curl you use will appear softer. If you want to achieve C curl effect use CC. If you want to use CC curl use D curl.GROWING UPWARDSIf natural lashes have a good natural curl and grow upwards,it is best to use eyelash extensions with softer curls like C. Every curl you use will appear stronger. The opposite of down growing lashes. Ifyou want to achieve CC curl use C curl. If you want to achieve D curl use CC curl.19

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THE CURLSCurled eyelashes are often confused with long eyelashes. You might feel that even though you applied long lash extensions, they are not prominent enough to make the impact you were hoping for. This can happen when the extension curl is not best suited for the style, eye shape, and client. Eyelash extensions have a wide variety of curls, and as time goes more curls come out. We will focus on the basic or classic curls. Let’s focus on B, C, and D. With B being the least curled and D being the most curled. You can use a mix to give your lashes the perfect dimension and texture or stick to one curl through. Just like face and eye shape are considered the ideal curl gives your lashes a lift without being dramatically different from your natural eyelashes if you are looking for a natural enhancement. Or Something with more curl to create drama. So, if the natural lashes are downward or neutral, a B or C or even a mix may be best to achieve your client’s goals. Although these textbooks speak in rules, it’s up to you to use your creative eye and your client’s features and goals to create the best look.A natural looking curl, great for a natural look or older clients C curl. A great universal curl and a very popular choice.• Mimics a natural curl• Great to use for inner corners• Blends well with a C Curl• Slightly curlier than J• Commonly used on upwards-growing natural lashes.• Perfect for use on bulbous eyes when mixed with other curls to soften the rounded shape• Curlier than B• A popular curl, often used for a natural effect• Subtly enhances the curl of the natural lash• Suitable for upwards-growing natural lashes• Suitable for most natural lashes and eye shapes.Most desired curl, common for all ages.20

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• Between a C and a D curl• Ideal for clients that want more curl, but their lashes are not suitable for a D curl• A very popular curl• A visible curl on the natural lashes• Suitable for lifting lashes that grow straight or slightly downwardsIs a popular choice for a dramatic look, as they are shaped like a half moon and will open the eye.• The most Dramatic curl• Gives the illusion of a bigger eye and has the most obvious lift • A strong curl, suitable for natural lashes growing downwards • Perfect for those who want a stronger, more dramatic nal look • Will have reduced retention if placed on a less curved natural lashA soft curl used for a subtle look or even bottom lashes.• Commonly used for male lashes or the nude look. The new curl on the block! Used on super straight natural lashes and hooded eyes• Ideal for straight downward natural lashes• Similar to a B curl but with a straight base• Very popular for a cat-eye effect, it’s perfect for creating a• icking impact to the outer eye.• Suitable for deep-set eyes Adds more drama for a natural yet dramatic look.21

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This curl has the strongest “Lift.”• Similar to a C Curl but with a straight base• A softer, more rounded version of the L Curl • Suitable for deep-set and hooded eyes • Ideal for downward natural lashes.And always remember that recommendations are just opinions. Challenge yourself to create beautiful and unique lash looks by experimenting with a variety of curls. Always important to consider what your client wants. After all, your priority should be to make them happy!A fashionable curl since the base of M lashes are straight, not too long, and nish in a strong curve without a blunt transition.• (Different from L curl in the way it transitions) change to (sister of L curl)• Just a little more rounded.• Not sharp22

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CAT EYESTEP 1: Apply eye patches to secure the bottom lashes.STEP 2: As with any lash map, start by nding where the iris is positioned and draw a line out the middle of the eye so that your set is symmetrical across both eyes.STEP 3: Draw the inner and outer corner lines.STEP 4: Start mapping from the inner corners of the eyes. The inner corner of the eye will always be short. You can use any length from 6mm to 9mm(max) for the inner part and go up to 10 -11 mm for the middle/longest section.STEP 5: Progressively lower the length towards the outer corner section. Divide the outer corner into 2-3 sections.The more parts you divide the lash line into, the more precise the nal result will be.25

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NATURALThis lash extension style follows the natural lash pattern and maximizes the natural beauty of the eyes without changing shapeSTEP 1: Apply eye patches to secure the bottom lashes.STEP 2: As with any lash map, start by nding where the iris is positioned and drawa line out the middle of the eye so that your set is symmetrical across both eyes.STEP 3: Draw the inner and outer corner lines.STEP 4: Divide inner corner section in 5 equal parts. With natural effect try tofollow the natural lash patter.STEP 5: Draw the imaginary line from the side of the nouse to the outer part of the iris. Draw the line from the point where it crosses the lash line. This section will be the longest length.STEP 6: Divide the outer corner are in 3 equal parts.Do not confuse classic eyelash extensions with natural style. Classic we can use in all lash styles with the natural effect. Natural style is a way ofmodeling the look.The more parts you divide the lash line into, the more precise the nal result will be.26

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FOX EYESTEP 1: Apply eye patches to secure the bottom lashes.STEP 2: As with any lash map, start by nding where the iris is positioned and draw a line out the middle of the eye so that your set is symmetrical across both eyes.STEP 3: Draw a line out in the inner and outer corners of the lash line. From the outer corner, go towards the middle and draw the line at the outer part of the iris.STEP 4: Divide the section between the middle of the iris and the outer part of the iris at least 3 equal parts.STEP 5: Draw the imaginary line from the side of the nose to the outer corner of the eyes. Draw the line from the point where it crosses the lash line. This section will be the longest length.STEP 6: Divide the section between the middle of the iris and the inner corner line in 4 equal sections.The more parts you divide the lash line into, the more precise the nal result will be.ALMOND, CLOSE SET, UPTURNED ALMONDWIDE SET, DOWNTURNED, HOODED, ROUND(WITH UPTURNED POSITION)28

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SQUIRRELSTEP 1: Apply eye patches to secure the bottom lashes.STEP 2: As with any lash map, start by nding where the iris is positioned and draw a line out the middle of the eye so that your set is symmetrical across both eyes.STEP 3: Imagine you draw a line from the side of the nose through the outer edge ofthe iris. Draw the line from the point where the outer edge of the iris crosses the lash line. Again, start with an imaginary line but this time from the side of the nose through the bottom edge of the iris. Now you have two parallel lines and this is the longest length for the squirrel effect.STEP 4: Draw the outer corner line. Divide the outer corner section into 4 sections.STEP 5: Draw the inner corner line and divide the inner corner area into 4 sections(or more according to lengths you will be using)The more parts you divide the lash line into, the more precise the nal result will be.ALMOND, ROUND, DOWNTURNED, HOODEDWIDE SET, UPTRNED29

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EYELINERSTEP 1: Apply eye patches to secure the bottom lashes.STEP 2: As with any lash map, start by nding where the iris is positioned and draw a line out the middle of the eye so that your set is symmetrical across both eyes. STEP 3: Draw a line from the inner and outer edges of the iris. Next, draw the outer and inner corners of the lash line. From the outer corner, go towards the middle about 3-5mm and draw the line.STEP 4: Divide the section between the outer edge of the iris and the last draw a line in 4 equal parts. The rst part in this section (from the outer corner) will be your maximum length.STEP 5: Outer corner area divide into 3 equal sections.STEP 6: Divide the inner corner area (inner corner from the inner edge of the iris)into 4 equal parts.The more parts you divide the lash line into, the more precise the nal result will be.ALMOND, CLOSE SET, UPTURNED ALMONDWIDE, DEEP SET DOWNTURNED, HOODED,ROUND(WITH UPTURNED POSITION)30

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LASH MAPPING 2WET LASH LOOK The Wet Lash Look is a gorgeous style but is not as easy to do, it takes a specic set of lash diameter to get the specic results. The Wet Look style resembles wet volume lashes after you’ve washed your face and lashes but before the lashes have been uffed. This look is created by using narrow, almost closed volume fans. This look is spiky and textured while making the lashes look darker and thicker. This style lashes are great for those with healthy natural lashes, clients with medium to full eyelashes, and the close-set eye shaped clients.KIM K One of the most popular lash styles. The Kim K look involves placing “spikes” (longer lengths) in different sections of the eye to create a wispy set. This Kardashian inspired look usually needs 8 - 14 mm spikes. This effect is created by using a moderate thickness and alternating a few long eyelashes spread out evenly from the top to the end. This combination gives your eyes a certain depth. This lash mapping style is great for almost all eye styles and is perfect for almond, round, and down turned eyes.32

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WORKING INLAYERSWhat are layers/ Identifying LayersHow to work withLash LayersIdentifying The Lash Line Wide Vs. NarrowLash Growth Directions+ Mixing CurlsWHAT ARE LAYERS/ IDENTIFYING LAYERSIt is crucial to have a clear understanding of how to work with multiple lash rows to achieve a dark, straight lash line and avoid uneven-looking lash sets. When working with lash rows, it is recommended to change the lengths to create a seamless appearance.To create the desired effect, the lower lash row should have the longest length, while the top lash row should have the shortest length. This can help create a natural-looking and aesthetically pleasing lash line.For practice, you can try recreating lash maps on a sponge or a mannequin. This exercise will allow you to improve your skills in working with lash rows and ensure precision in your lash application techniques. Remember to take your time and pay attention to detail to achieve the best results.33

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HOW TO WORK WITH LASH LAYERSIDENTIFYING THE LASH LINE WIDE VS. NARROWIt’s important to always map out your lash sets to ensure a great visual and proper placement of the lash layers. The shortest layer should be closest to the lash artist, followed by the middle layer, and the longest layer should be furthest away. This will create a symmetrical and visually appealing lash set.If you want a perfectly symmetrical lash set with no variation in lengths, you can consider using longer lashes on the bottom layer and gradually moving to shorter lashes as you go through the middle to top layers. This will ensure that all the lashes appear the same length when looking at your client’s lashes.When it comes to placement, the bottom layer should be applied on top of the natural lashes, making sure it doesn’t drop down. The middle layer(s) can be applied on the top, bottom, or sides of the natural lashes, as they are sandwiched between the top and bottom layers. The top layer should be applied to the underside of the natural lashes to help lift them upwards.It’s important to note that these placement suggestions may vary depending on how the client’s lashes grow (upwards, straight, or downwards). Use your critical thinking skills and adapt the placement based on the specic situation. Sometimes, certain rules may contradict each other, and as an artist, you have to make the decision on which suggestion to follow.When working with lash rows/layers, it’s good practice to be aware of the different lash line widths. Practice working with layers on both narrow and wide lash lines. Keep in mind that your lash fans will be closer together on a narrow lash line and further apart on a wide lash line.For this exercise, you can use a mapping of your choice to practice this concept. Place your lash fans on a sponge or a piece of foam tape that is the same size as indicated below.Narrow lash line:Wide lash line:Remember to adjust the placement of lash fans according to the lash line width to achieve a balanced and natural look. If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask.34

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LASH GROWTH DIRECTIONS+ MIXING CURLSFor downward growing lashes, the best curls to lift them up are the L, L+, and M curls. These curls will give a visual lifting effect to the lashes. If a client prefers a more natural lift, you can use CC or D curls.For straight growing lashes and clients who want a fairly natural look, you can try using the C, B, and J lashes. These lashes have a straighter shape. If you want to give the client a fuller look, you can use stronger curls like CC, D, or L+ curls.For upward growing lashes, which means curly lashes, you can use CC and D curls to mimic the client’s natural lashes. These curls will give the client a more dramatic look.Remember to always consider your client’s preferences and prioritize their safety and comfort during the lash extension process.To complete a full set mixing lash curls, you can follow these steps:1. Start by mapping the lash rows/layers on your mannequin’s eye. You can use the provided mapping for downward, straight, and upward growing lashes as a reference.2. Identify the client’s lash growth pattern. Determine if they have downward growing lashes in the inner corners, upward growing lashes inthe outer corners, or any other specic pattern.3. Based on the lash growth pattern, choose the appropriate curls for each section. For example, for the inner corners with downward growing lashes, use L or L+ curl. For the outer corners with upward glowing lashes, use CC or D curl. And for the straight growing lashes in between, use C or B curl.4. Begin the application process by applying adhesive to the lash extensions. Start with one row/layer at a time, working from the inner to outer corners.5. Take one lash extension at a time and dip it into the adhesive, making sure to coat the base of the extension evenly.6. Carefully place the lash extension onto the natural lash, following the mapping and curl placement determined earlier. Use the round sponges to separate the lashes and ensure clean and precise application.7. Continue this process row by row, layer by layer, until the full set is complete. Make sure to check for any gaps or inconsistencies and ll them in as needed.8. Once the application is nished, allow the adhesive to fully dry before combing through the lashes to separate and create a seamless blend.Remember, this exercise is designed to help you practice and develop your skills in working with different lash curls and mapping techniques. It’s important to always prioritize the safety and comfort of your client during the process.35

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PRACTICEMAKES PERFECTUsing new knowledge when working with real clients could be scary. That’s why before you start practicing on clients use practice sheets to master your mapping skills. First, you can re-draw all effects. As styling overall is very individual you can try to play with different lengths and effects.Sometimes beginner lash artists think that they can master just three lash maps and use them on clients, but you won’t nd a universal solution that will spare you from the mapping work. Lash mapping is an art and every client is an individual with individual facial symmetry.Before every lash mapping process, be sure to consult with your client. It is very important to have a full consultation with your client before planning what effect will be used. During the consultation, you must check for facial features, eye shape, answer any questions the client may have, nd out the client’s expectations, and discuss options, this is effective communication.Client consultations should ensure there are no misunderstandings over what the client wants and what the lash treatment will involve. This is why good communication is an important part of any consultation. See what the client wants, but be prepared to advise them otherwise if necessary. Always advise them, long extensions isn’t always better, and the style they want may not look best on them.36

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MAPPINGSEyelash mapping allows you to determine what length of extensions you should use on which part of the lash line. The process in itself is simple, but you may need some practice before knowing what your client needs, in time it will become instict. Understand that each client will be unique. There is no one-size-ts-all when it comes to lashes. You should always use lash mapping even when you become more advanced so your sets are as proportionate as possible.47

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Clinic Assignment: Time TrialsAll Time Trial (LASH)Client Name: ___________________________________ Model/Mannequin_______Trial Type: ___________________________________ (Isolation/Placement/Fan Making)Date: _______________________________________Lashes Used: 0.07/0.10/0.15/0.18/0.20 ___________________________________Volume Fans: 2d/3d/4d/5d/MIXED ___________________________________Before & After ______ Y/N _____________Start Time: ___________________Finished Time: __________________Right Eye: (every tally is 10 lashes)______________________________________________________________________________________Left Eye: (every tally is 10 lashes)______________________________________________________________________________________Clinic Assignment: Time TrialsAll Time Trial (LASH)Client Name: ___________________________________ Model/Mannequin_______Trial Type: ___________________________________ (Isolation/Placement/Fan Making)Date: _______________________________________Lashes Used: 0.07/0.10/0.15/0.18/0.20 ___________________________________Volume Fans: 2d/3d/4d/5d/MIXED ___________________________________Before & After ______ Y/N _____________Start Time: ___________________Finished Time: __________________Right Eye: (every tally is 10 lashes)______________________________________________________________________________________Left Eye: (every tally is 10 lashes)______________________________________________________________________________________53

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THE CONSULTATION ITEMS1. EYE PROFILECentral to this technique is the determination of each guest’s unique eye prole. All eyes fall into 1 of 3 proles. Fun fact: Each eye can even have a different prole! This eye prole indicates which lash design will best complement their natural features. That means fool-proof, perfect lash design for each eye, every time, personalized for a completely custom lash extension design for every guest! (see proles below)2. LASH CURLOur stylists strive to educate you on which lash curl is best foryour unique eyes.3. APPLICATION METHOD & LASH THICKNESSclassic lashes, hybrid lashes, volume lashes or mega volume lashes.**4. LONGEST LENGTH + LASH THICKNESSIn the nal step of the 4-step consultation process, our stylist determines your longest lash length and lash thickness. To do this, they consider the following:The length of your natural eyelash hairThe condition of that natural eyelash hairYour desired look. If you request a longer length, your stylist can use a thinner extension lighter in weight that won’t damage the integrity of your natural eyelash hair.After you have completed the 4-step eyelash extension consultation, you then complete your custom design code.Below is an example of how that design code is determined:Design: Straight, Upward, DownwardCurl: C, DLength: List the longest lash length selected (i.e. 12mm)Method: Classic, Hybrid, Volume, Mega Volume**Thickness: .06, .07, .10, .15, .185. LASTLY: FILL OUT THE CLIENT CHART (YOUR CHARTSSHOULD HAVE A PLACE FOR A DRAWN VERSION OF THE SET. LIKE A PRACTICE SHEET PAGE.55

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THE CONSULTATION ITEMSStep 1: Face ShapeStep 2: Client Eye shapeStep 3: Clients NL Lengths ( A<C<T)Step 4: Clients NL width (A<C<T)Step 5: What are they looking for (with pictures if you can)(is that safe/correct for them)Step 6: Design the set for them (on paper rst)Step 7 get client approvalStep 8: lash bath/tape/map on eyepadsStep 9: lay foundation.Step 10: while lashing every 25/30 lashes placed on each eye. I want to check it from the other side of the clients.Step 11: check them/untape the client. And then have them open.Step 12: give the client the mirror.Step 13: Chart it.56

Lash Styling Beauty Book

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