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Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

FOREWORD This glossary lists and defines key fashion terms and jargon The booklet is organised into six sections as follows 1 2 3 4 5 6 Section Section Section Section Section Section 1 2 3 4 5 6 Fashion Merchandising Planning Fashion Design Fashion Product Development Fashion Buying Fashion Selling Alphabetical Index Each student is required to have read the entire glossary before the second lecture Beside all students must have learnt all the definitions by session 8 A q u i z based on this glossary and on the Textile Knowledge transferred during the course w i l l b e o r g a n i s e d o n s e s s i o n 9 and its grading is taken into account for the final evaluation Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT B00020841 essec edu nathalie ramanantsoa essec edu Fashion Management Essential Glossary 3 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 1 FASHION MERCHANDISE PLANNING 4 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 1 FASHION MERCHANDISE PLANNING Fashion Merchandise Planning 4 5 4 calendar FR Calendrier distributeur Method of managing accounting period It is a common calendar structure in Retailing which helps divide the year into 4 equivalent quarters It is used to give a selling season the same number of selling days in order to compare performances Thus each quarter has 13 weeks which are grouped into two 4 weeks months and one 5 weeks month The grouping of 13 weeks may be set up as 5 4 4 weeks or 4 5 4 weeks e g calendar for fall begins on August 1st and shows 4 weeks then 5 weeks and finally 4 weeks Also known as Retailer s calendar 80 20 rules FR R gle des 20 80 A general management principle which when it is applied in the Marketing domain rules that 80 of the sales or profits come from 20 of the customers or products carried in the collection Also known as Pareto principle Accessories FR Accessoires Accessories are items added to enhance an outfit They often contribute to creating a more fashionable or dimensional look Often used to describe everything from belts scarves and socks to sunglasses jewellery watches etc Also known as Additional ornamentation Adoption Process FR Cycle d adoption Mental process through which an individual evolves from first learning about an innovation awareness to actually buying and using it regularly See consumer decision process Fashion Management Essential Glossary 5 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 1 FASHION MERCHANDISE PLANNING Apparel price ranges FR Segment de prix Designation of categories of apparel relative to price The lowest category is low end the highest designer Hierarchy of apparel lines and relative price points Designer Be1er Pr ice po int Bridge Moderate Budget Low end Assortment FR Assortiment Refers to the selection of merchandise carried by a retailer An assortment is often described along 2 dimensions 1 Assortment depth FR Profondeur d assortiment referring to variations in styles colours materials prices within a given category of product e g the category skirt developed in 4 styles 3 fabrics 4 colours each etc Depth of assortment tells the number of SKUs featured 2 Width of assortment FR Largeur d assortiment referring to the number of product lines or categories available and that add up to make up for the whole offer Also known as assortment breadth Decisions linked to assortment definition are strategic they determine the level of specialisation and the positioning of the point of sale within its market It also marks the differentiation strategy of the banner See line plan Assortment plan FR Plan d assortiment A list of merchandises that indicates in very general terms what should be carried in a particular category and in a particular store That tool is used in balancing the merchandise assortment with customer demand Indeed it is a projection of the variety and quantity of merchandise to be carried to meet target market demand The plan allocates the money or units to selection factors considered most important 6 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 1 FASHION MERCHANDISE PLANNING Assortment plans may be developed in two ways either the basic stock list or by means of the model stock plan See Basic Stock List Collection Plan Model Stock Plan Basic Stock List FR Listing des references A wholesalers listing of products and brands Benchmarking FR Benchmarking Refers to a performance standard against which operating achievements are measured Benchmarking is generally used to identify best practices or common practices in an industry through the observation and study of best in class practionners It has to do with more than market intelligence as its scope can go far beyond the observation of competitors Bottom FR Bas A garment worn on the lower body Cannibalisation FR Cannibalisation Uncontrolled process by which the introduction of a new product in a market leads to cuts in the sales of an existing product instead of leading to the generation of new sales opportunities It can be analysed as a competitive factor that reduces a product s or a store s sales such as the debut of a competing brand or retail outlet Capsule collection FR Collection capsule A capsule collection is a highly condensed and compact collection It includes all of basic or key items Unlike a regular collection a capsule collection is only offered for a limited amount of time Many of today s prominent fashion designers partner with big name low cost retailers to offer these types of collections which comprise of a few selected pieces that truly reflect their design perspectives but are also affordably priced This capsule collection concept offers incentives to retailers designers and consumers It enables retailers to introduce top notch designs at affordable prices that can thus reach the masses Due to its mass appeal designers are able to meet consumers who would not typically be able to afford purchasing from their higher end collections Classification Merchandise FR Nomenclature produits Allows firms to obtain finer financial data by subdividing each specified department into further and detailed product categories for related types of merchandise See Toolkit TK1 Fashion Management Essential Glossary 7 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 1 FASHION MERCHANDISE PLANNING Collection FR Collection A collection or line in the fashion industry constitutes a group of clothing designs put together to tell a story of the designer s inspiration and new trends for the fashion brand during a particular season The number of pieces that make up a collection differs from the number of outfits created A piece can for instance be a blouse skirt or dress etc Styled together they create the outfit which in turn communicates the trend and design inspiration of the designer Consumer panel FR Panel Consommateurs A representative sampling of shoppers who through their reactions and comments during discussion enable managers to assess customer needs in a particular market store or group of stores Discussion often involves assortment shopping convenience store sanitation and other factors that contribute to customer satisfaction See test market test store Coordinates FR Coordonn s Garments designed to mix and match interchangeably Core collection core assortment FR Coeur de collection Coeur d assortiment A relatively large proportion of the total assortment that is carried by each store in the chain regardless of size The core assortment should embody the positioning of the retailer and mainly contributes to its profitability See 80 20 rule Core Customers FR Clients cl s Consumers with whom retailers should seek to nurture long term relationships as they ensure retailers profitability and sustainability They should be singled out in a firm s database See target market Dealer brand FR Marque propre Marque de distributeur See private label own label Deep and narrow FR Assortiment profond et troit Depicts an assortment which presents large quantities of a small selection of merchandise Demographics FR Donn es d mographiques Set of objective characteristics that describe a given population or a group of people It includes characteristics such as age home ownership number of children marital status residence location job function and many other criteria 8 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 1 FASHION MERCHANDISE PLANNING Depth FR Profondeur d assortiment The number of pieces of merchandise of a specific item or category in stock Therefore it refers to the variety in any one goods or service category with which a retailer is involved Diffusion Line FR Ligne diffusion Ligne bis A modestly priced line of merchandise created by a high end designer that retails at more affordable prices See apparel price ranges Forecast FR Pr visions de vente A projection of sales activity Initial Mark up at Retail FR Coefficient de marge Based on the original retail value assigned to merchandise minus the merchandise costs expressed as a percentage of the original retail price See mark up percentage Inventory FR Inventaire Refers to the dollar value of the stock on hand at the store and at the warehouse Taking inventory is the act of physically counting and recording the quantities of merchandise on hand An analysis of inventory in the store provides the company with valuable information regarding shrink inventory level and management performance Like for like sales FR Comparaison p rim tre constant en comparable Generally used in reference to sales or sales growth Qualifies sales growth in stores that are mature usually 12 months or older European equivalent to US terms same store or comp store Line FR Collection A group of products designed for a specific season The designs also known as styles are put together to tell a story of the designer s inspiration and new trends for the fashion brand Line plan FR Plan de Collection It is a framework for fashion planning This document gathers sketches and technical information for each design of a given collection The line plan details the composition of the line in terms of width and depth It thus gives the number of styles that need to be designed cf illustrated example in the Toolkit See Assortment Plan Fashion Management Essential Glossary 9 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 1 FASHION MERCHANDISE PLANNING Margin blending FR Compensation de marges A combination of higher and lower margin products to achieve an overall margin figure Markdown FR D marque A reduction of selling price to meet various objectives such as matching the lower price of a competitor adapt to inventory overstocking clear out shop worn merchandise reduce assortment of odds and ends increase customer traffic Markdown Percentage FR Taux de d marque The total dollar markdown as a percentage of net sales in Mark up FR Marge commercial The difference between merchandises costs and retail selling price Mark up Percentage at Cost FR Taux de marge The difference between retail price and merchandise cost expressed as a percentage of merchandise cost Mark up Percentage at Retail FR Taux de marque The difference between retail price and merchandise cost expressed as a percentage of retail price Model Stock Plan FR Etat des stocks In the context of retailing business it is an inventory plan listing precise items and their respective quantities that should be on hand for each merchandise line Opening price point FR Prix d appel The lowest price line of a particular item The lowest price in a particular category Overstock FR Sur stocks An excessive amount of products purchased in anticipation of increased sales volume Peak season FR Pic saisonnier The time of the year when a retail store achieves its greatest volume of sales Per annum p a FR par an By the year PLM FR Gestion du cycle de vie du produit Product Lifecycle Management See Product lifecycle 10 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 1 FASHION MERCHANDISE PLANNING Price Elasticity of Demand FR Elasticit prix de la demande Used in setting retailing policies that Marketing concept measures the impact on demand for an item created by changes in prices promotion or other factors affecting demand ceteris paribus i e with other factors remaining constant Price elasticity relates to the sensitivity of customers to price changes in terms of the quantities they will buy Analysis of price elasticity of demand by product category and ranges helps Product Managers and Merchandisers fine tune a line price policy Price point FR Prix de reference Defines a price category when several price brackets coexist For example one price may be for good products another for better products and a third for best products See reference price Private Labels Dealer Brands FR Marque proper Refer to a product line exclusively distributed by a wholesaler or a retailer which may be manufactured under contract for the private label user Thus private labels are better controlled and more profitable to retailers Besides competing retailers do not sell them they are less expensive for consumers and lead to customer loyalty to retailers Equivalent to own labels Product Life Cycle FR Cycle de vie du produit Shows the expected behaviour of a piece of goods or service over its life The traditional cycle has four stages introduction growth maturity and decline Fashion Management Essential Glossary 11 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 1 FASHION MERCHANDISE PLANNING Product movement record FR Donn es de sorties de caisses la reference Data showing the volume of each product s sales by day week period and or quarter Product Service mix FR Mix Produits Mix Services The number and kind of products services a general merchandise retailer will offer Product Service planning FR Planification marchandise The process of deciding what the products services mix will be Reference price FR Prix de reference A price point in the consumer s memory for goods or services that can consist of the price last paid the price most frequently paid or the average of all prices customers have paid for similar offerings It is a benchmark for what consumers believe the real price of the merchandise should be Sales analysis FR Analyse des ventes An analysis of sales by week month period or year made in order to project trends identify problems and measure a retailer s performance Sales Curve FR Courbes des ventes Shows the relative importance of sales from one month to another by illustrating the peaks and valleys in customer demand for a particular item or category of merchandise expressed as a percentage of total sales for a given month The sales curve assists the buyer in knowing how many of an item to buy and when to buy it A sales curve also shows the seasonality of buying patterns Sales Forecasting FR Pr visions de ventes Lets a retailer estimate expected future sales for a given time period A sales forecast is generally based on sales for the same period last year and during previous years Equivalent to sales projections Sales log FR Journal des ventes A sales record by store and department which provides sales trends competitive factors staffing weather holidays etc Seasonal forecasts FR Pr visions saisonni res Changes in market demand that depend primarily in the time of year Sell Through FR Ecoulement Vendors attempt to increase sales of merchandise at the retail level 12 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 1 FASHION MERCHANDISE PLANNING Also refers to the amount of goods expressed as a percentage of the total amount on hand sold over a given period of time Six Month Merchandising Plan FR Plan Merchandising A form used to coordinate a budget that sets sales goals and determines the amount of merchandise necessary to reach desired goals SKU Stock Keeping Unit FR R f rence article code produit It is a number assigned to a product by a retail store to identify the price product options and manufacturer It can also refer to each item or group of related items in a unit control inventory system When it comes to fashion products it more specifically refers to a numbering system used by a company or brand to identify a particular item by style colour size etc Storecheck FR Storecheck visite concurrence Review of merchandise and prices in a retail store by non sales personnel whose specific responsibilities are to run such in field examinations Storechecks are done to check competition see how the merchandise is displayed how the sales staff handles it and how it is selling The information gathered in a storecheck will aid the brand in the marketing of products Syndicated data FR Donn es pan listes Information such as sales market penetration market share gathered by a service or company for public release and sold by subscription Generally sold by specialised service providers cf Ac Nielsen Secodip Marketingscan GfK etc Style FR Style Basic characteristics or distinguishing features of an item In a given collection a single product category cf trousers skirts shirts etc often displays several styles Target market FR March cible Those people who are most likely to become customers and towards whom the retailer directs its promotional strategy Test market FR March test A market area representative of the average national demographics and buying patterns which is chosen to test new products promotions and to forecast sales See trading area catchment area Fashion Management Essential Glossary 13 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

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SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Fashion Design 5 pocket FR 5 poches Modelling most commonly associated with denim jeans five pockets style puts a more casual spin on trousers with 2 front pockets a front coin pocket and a patch rear pockets See pocket A line When referring to dresses and coats the term A line generally means a style line fitted from the shoulders to the hips and then widening gradually flaring out to a wider hemline causing it to resemble the letter A But it is also sometimes used to mean widening from the shoulders to the hem ignoring the waist and hips see illustrations below When it comes to a skirt the shape slightly flares from a narrow fitted waist and has no visible embellishments for ease This line works well on most figure types it is particularly good for disguising bottom heavy figures The earliest A line designs were created by Christian Dior in the 1950 s The current shape was given its definitive expression and popularized by Yves Saint Laurent with his Trapeze Line of spring 1958 which featured dresses flaring out dramatically from a fitted shoulder line Illustrations A line dresses and skirt Valen no S S2013 Fashion Management Essential Glossary 15 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN AOP All over print FR All over Print composed of a design that is repeated across the entire surface of a garment Appliqu FR Appliqu Cutting shapes from textile fabrics and attaching them to another fabric or garment in order to decorate the base material The ornamental fabrics are most often sewn to the base fabric but may also be attached with adhesive Quilts are frequently made with Appliqu patterns and fabric artists and fashion designers often use this technique Armscye FR Emmanchure The armhole of a garment Also refers to the armhole part of the pattern Aspirational Describing something that is meant to inspire a higher level of achievement status or success like dressing Avant garde FR Avant garde From French advance guard or vanguard literally fore guard it relates to works that are experimental or innovative The avant garde pushes the boundaries of what is accepted as the norm or the status quo Therefore avant garde describe styles that may be unconventional and startling The associated design are daring and somewhat wild Basque FR Basque The extension below the waistline of a fitted bodice or jacket Unlike a peplum which flares out below the waist and is relatively short basques may be of any length may be fitted or full and may be placed in a limited area such as the back or front or all around They are an integral part of the construction of the garment top 16 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Batwing Dolman sleeve FR Manche chauve souris Sleeve that fits closely at the wrist but widens to be very full under the arm From the back the sleeve resembles a cape Its name comes from its resemblance to the wing of a bat or its similarity to a type of coat worn in the late 1800 s that had a cape like sleeve Bias grain FR Biais Bias is the diagonal direction of a woven fabric across its grain When the diagonal is taken at a 45 angle to the lengthwise and crosswise grains of woven fabrics it is named true bias Unless woven from stretch yarns fabrics stretch more in the bias direction than in the length or width Designers can take advantage of this stretch by manipulating the fabric so that the bias areas fall in ways that cause the designs to fit the body more closely or drape into soft folds Designer Madeleine Vionnet active from1912 to 1940 was renown for her bias designs See fabric grain Bishop sleeve FR Manche bouffante A basic sleeve style cut with minimal fullness where it is set into the armhole then widens gradually to the wrist where it is gathered into a tightly fitting cuff Some versions have the fullness at the wrist concentrated in such a way that much of it hangs down under the wrist Fashion Management Essential Glossary 17 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Boot cut FR Jeans bottillon boot cut Shapely denim cut loosely at the hem to accommodate a boot The style is flared loose all the way down unlike women s jeans which are often tapered at the knee Cable knit FR Torsade Refers to a pattern commonly used in jumpers and knitted accessories in which raised cables appear to twist around one another Fishermen are found at the root of this utilitarian style the permuting stitches are considered to produce a far more durable and insulating garment The method lends itself to creating textured layered looks popular in the autumn winter seasons CAD Computer aided Design FR CAO The use of computer to create designs facilitating quick and easy alterations and usually allowing the designers to views the product from different angles colours sizes etc Casing FR Tunnel A tunnel of fabric usually made by folding over a cut edge or sewing an additional strip of fabric on at the cut edge Elastic or a drawstring may be threaded through a casing 18 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Colour blocking Originally a technique where blocks of fabric are sewn together in one garment to create clothing with a few different solid colours It has now come to encompass an outfit that applies the same technique to a combination of pieces i e shirt pants shoes Dart FR Pince Darts are folds sewn into fabric to help provide a three dimensional shape to a garment They are frequently used in women s clothing to tailor the garment to the wearer s shape Two kinds of darts are common in blouses for women Vertical darts These are sewn from the bottom of the blouse to a point generally around the bust line or waistline see illustration below Bust darts These are short triangle folds that provide space for breasts such that the fabric under the breasts isn t hanging rather is fitting closer to the wearer Distressed FR Vieilli An area of fabric that has been artificially aged or worn Commonly used on denim To drop the hem of a garment FR Rallonger To make the garment longer adjusting length from the hemline downwards DTM Abbreviation for Dyed To Match On a spec sheet it may for example indicate that the buttons are DTM buttons This means the buttons are to be dyed to match the ground colour of the garment or dyed to match another colour of the garment as specified See specs sheet tech pack Fashion Management Essential Glossary 19 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Empire Line FR Style Empire This cut is fitted to the body until just below the bust giving a high waisted appearance and the rest of the garment falls loosely in a gathered skirt which is long and loosely fitting but skims the body The word empire refers to the period of the First French Empire when Napoleon s first Empress Jos phine de Beauharnais was influential in popularizing the style around Europe The word empire is pronounced in a special quasi French way m p r by many in the fashion world Also known as an empire waist empire silhouette or merely empire Fabric grain FR Sens du tissu Fabric grain affects the way fabric will hang and drape There are three types of fabric grain 1 Lengthwise grain FR Droit fil refers to the threads in fabric which run the length of the fabric parallel to the selvage of the fabric 2 Crosswise grain are the threads that run perpendicular to the selvage of the fabric or the cut edge of the fabric as it comes off the bolt 3 Bias grain FR Biais is the thread line that is at a forty five degree angle to the lengthwise and crosswise grain of the fabric as it is on the bolt The bias has stretch in woven fabric and will hang differently than a garment that has been cut on the straight or crosswise grain See bolt of fabric When working with woven fabric the lengthwise and crosswise grain will not have any stretch Depending on the tightness of the weave the fabric may have give but it will not stretch The Bias grain however will stretch Because the bias grain does react differently than the lengthwise or crosswise grain it may require special handling For example a skirt cut on the bias grain must hang for 24 hours before attempting to hem it 20 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Fair Isle Intricate highly coloured knits often stitched in bands seen on jumpers cardigans and more recently accessories The design takes its name from the Fair Isle a tiny island in the north of Scotland where the practice originated The term has since been employed to reference loosely any stranded colour knitting which often has no relation to the knitting of the Fair Isle Fit or Fitting 1 FR Ajustage Depicts how the garment wears on the body It can be close to the body fitted FR Cintr or ample relaxed fit or loose fit FR ample 2 FR Mise au point During product development this process relates to the fact of adjusting a sample to the proper size and shape Fullness FR Aisance Style cut which allows more ease in the garment fit A vertically hanging piece of fabric such as a skirt or a drape will often be described in terms of its fullness Fullness represents the thickness depth of the pleats or gathers in relation to the original width of the fabric Thus a fabric Fashion Management Essential Glossary 21 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN sewn at zero fullness is flat and has no pleats nor gathers fabric sewn at 100 fullness is pleated or gathered so that it takes up exactly half as much width as it would if it were not pleated at all Equivalent to ample fit See Pleats gathered French cuffs FR Manchettes revers A soft double cuff that is made by turning back half of a wide cuff band and fastening with cuff links Frog closure or frog fastening FR Brandebourg Chinese like closing of decorative cording or braid A soft ball of cording or a button is used to complete the closure Gathered FR Fronc To pull material into small folds Gathering is a sewing technique for shortening the length of a strip of fabric so that the longer piece can be attached to a shorter piece It is commonly used in clothing to manage fullness as when a skirt is attached to a bodice In simple gathering parallel rows of running stitches are sewn along one edge of the fabric to be gathered The stitching threads are then pulled or drawn up so that the fabric forms small folds along the threads See fullness 22 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Gauge FR Jauge Also spelled gage Unit of measure which helps assess the fineness of a knit In knitting gauge is the number of stitches per unit measurement of knitted fabric This may correspond to the length or width of the fabric and is usually expressed per inch although increasingly given in metric units Gauge is affected by the yarn knitting needles and type of stitch used as well as the tension imparted by the knitter Knowing the gauge ensures that the finished knitted piece will be the desired size The typical gauge unit of measure is abbreviated as GG When it comes to machine knitting it is expressed by the number of needles of a knitting machine in a 1 1 5 25x38 mm area in the production of a knit garment or fabric As a general rule the higher the gauge the finer the fabric whereas the lower the gauge the bulkier the knit Godets FR Godets Seam insertions that have triangular shaped panels which are added to the hems seams and this creates a flaring effect in clothes The shape of the cutting of godets and the insertions depends on how you want the design to look Haberdashery FR Mercerie Small items used in sewing such as buttons zips and thread See trimmings Hand or handle FR Main ou touch The hand describes the overall qualities of a fabric in particular the way the fabric feels when it is touched moved or squeezed with the hand Such qualities as softness silkiness etc are revealed through the sense of touch Also referred to as quality Fashion Management Essential Glossary 23 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Haute Couture FR Haute Couture The term is a designation protected by law and only those companies mentioned on the list drawn up each year by a commission domiciled at the French Ministry for Industry are entitled to avail themselves thereof to quote the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Designers wanting to earn the right to use the title need to comply with the strict rules set forth in 1945 and updated in 1992 which are as follows Q Design made to order garments for private clients with one or more fittings Q Have a workshop in Paris that employs at least fifteen people full time Q Must have twenty full time technical people in at least one workshop Q Must present a collection twice a year Spring Summer and Autumn Winter to the Paris press Q Each collection should have at least thirty five runs exits with outfits for both daytime wear and eveningwear Q Every design must be unique all hand sewn and made to measure Merely adhering to these requirements is not enough though It is still the Paris Chamber of Commerce that decides who deserves to be a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture A couture garment can cost anything from 15 000 to some millions and can take up to several months to construct Considering the amount of time money and skill that is allotted to each completed piece Haute Couture garments are also described as having no price tag in other words budget is not relevant Each Couture piece is not made to sell Rather they were designed and constructed for the runway much like an art exhibition In Spring 2014 members are Official Members Correspondent members foreign 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Alexis Mabille Bouchra Jarrar Chanel Christian Dior Frank Sorbier Giambattista Valli Herm s Jean Paul Gaultier Maison Martin Margiela St phane Rolland 5 5 5 5 5 5 Jewelry and accessories also belong to Haute Couture with their specific members Boucheron 5 Bulgari Chanel Joaillerie 5 Mellerio dits Meller Goossens Lemari Lesage Maison Michel 5 Giorgio Armani priv 5 Elie Saab Q Valentino 5 Versace Q Viktor Rolf Guest members 24 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Alexandre Vauthier Julien Fourni On Aura Tout Vu Rad Hourani Ralph Russo Schiaparelli Serkan Cura Yiqing Yin Zuhair Murad

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Intarsia FR Intarsia A design created by knitting coloured yarns on both sides of a fabric Intarsia designs are usually isolated forms not repeat patterns Examples of intarsia designs Knock off FR Copie A copy with or without modification of a design usually more expensive shown by another firm under a different brand name Lapels FR Revers Part of the garment that rolls or folds back above the front closure on both sides also called revers Typically found on jackets and coats Lining FR Doublure In sewing and tailoring a lining is an inner layer of fabric fur or other material inserted into clothing hats luggage curtains handbags and similar items That layer is used to finish the inside of the garment or item Typically a garment can be either unlined half lined or fully lined A half lined jacket is lined on the top half and sleeve but the bottom half is not lined and the seams are taped for a clean finish Half lined is usually done on garment with lightweight fabric so the lining doesn t add weight Mandarin collar FR Col Mao A short stand up collar adopted from the close fitting Asian collar Fashion Management Essential Glossary 25 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Mood board FR Planches Tendances Type of collage used by designers and assembled on a board in a composition aimed at visually illustrating the direction of style they are pursuing It may consist of images colours sketches fabric swatches texture samples text etc Designers use that tool to develop their design concept visualize and share its feel with their team Also known as inspiration board Examples of mood boards Motif FR Motif A motif is an artwork part of a fabric element of design It may consist of recurring shapes or colours when it is used in repeat See pattern 1 repeat Openwork or peek a boo FR Ajour Decoration that consists of designs made with openings or holes The finished work is constructed so as to show openings or perforations through its substance the cut outs reveal skin Examples of openwork Christopher CANE 26 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Patent FR Cuir vernis Leather finished to a hard glossy surface Used chiefly for shoes and clothing accessories The leather got its name from the U S Patent Office as the leather s finish was once protected by patent Pattern 1 FR Motif Decorative design that may or may not be used in repeat It can be printed stitched or woven into a fabric 2 Example of paisley pattern design FR Motif cashmire 3 FR Patron or patronage Refers to the outline of a garment on paper It embodies usually all the pieces necessary to cut a complete garment from material The flat template is usually made of paper or card used for marking up sections of garments and accessories that are to be cut out of fabric prior to construction including allowances for the seams In this sense the term may also refer to an original garment on which copies are based or a set of instructions for making a garment Fashion Management Essential Glossary 27 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Pinking FR Denture crantage With a scalloped edge Piping FR Piping A narrow fold of fabric in a seam to provide decorative embellishment Pleats FR Plis A pleat older plait is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place It is commonly used in clothing to gather a wide piece of fabric to narrow its width or length Pleats are categorized as pressed i e ironed or otherwise heat set into a sharp crease or unpressed falling in soft rounded folds In fashion design several types of pleats can be met Q Accordion pleats FR Pliss accord on or pliss soleil tight pleating which allows the garment to expand its shape when moving Accordion pleats may also be used in hand fans 28 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Q Box pleats FR Plis ronds are knife pleats shaped back to back and have a tendency to spring out from the waistline They also create a bulkier seam Q Inverted box pleats FR Plis creux have the box on the inside rather than the outside Q Cartridge pleats are used to gather a large amount of fabric into a small waistband or armhole without adding bulk to the seam This type of pleating also allows the fabric of the skirt or sleeve to spring out from the seam Q Fluted pleats or flutings FR Plis tuyaux are very small rounded or pressed pleats used as trimmings The name comes from their resemblance to a pan flute Q Fortuny pleats are crisp pleats set in silk fabrics by designer Mariano Fortuny in the early 20th century using a secret pleat setting process Fashion Management Essential Glossary 29 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Q Honeycomb pleats FR Smocks are narrow rolled pleats used as a foundation for smocking Also known as smocks Q Kick pleats or ease pleat FR Pli d aisance are short pleats leading upwards from the bottom hem of garments such as skirts or coats usually at the back They allow the garment to drape straight down when stationary while also allowing freedom of movement Q Knife pleats FR Plis couch s are used for basic gathering purposes and form a smooth line rather than springing away from the seam they have been gathered to The pleats have generally a 3 1 ratio three centimetres of fabric will create one centimetre of finished pleat Knife pleats can be recognized by the way that they overlap in the seam Q Organ pleats are parallel rows of softly rounded pleats resembling the pipes of a pipe organ 30 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Q Rolled pleats create tubular pleats which run the length of the fabric from top to bottom A piece of the fabric to be pleated is pinched and then rolled until it is flat against the rest of the fabric forming a tube Pocket FR Poches Small cloth bag that is sewn into a piece of clothing a larger bag etc In fashion design different pocket types can be used among which are Flap pocket FR Poches rabats Pocket with an opening covered by a piece of fabric hanging from the top of it Gusset pocket FR Poches soufflets Patch pocket made fuller by an expandable bottom and sides or by an inverted box pleat in the middle of the pocket Handwarmer pouch kangaroo pocket FR Poches kangourou Poche manchons Patch pocket on the front of a garment it opens vertically on one or both sides to protect the hands against the cold Fashion Management Essential Glossary 31 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Inset pocket FR Poche incrust e The inset pocket is fully integrated into the garment itself as opposed to the patch pocket An inset pocket can be placed anywhere along a seam most often the side seam It can also be placed so that it spans two intersecting seams like a jeans pocket which goes from the waist seam to the side seam See seam pocket Patch pocket FR Poche plaqu e Poche appliqu e Pocket of various shapes and sizes made of a piece of material sewn onto the garment s outer surface Seam pocket Pocket where the opening is in a side seam of the garment See inset pocket Slash pocket FR Poche coup e A pocket set in a garment especially below the waistline to which easy access is provided by an exterior vertical or diagonal slit 32 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Welt pocket FR Poche passepoil e Small flat pocket commonly used on the exterior and interior breast on a man s suit jacket or on the back of men s trousers The pocket opening is adorned and reinforced by one or two thin strips Depending on the design of the pants the pocket may have a button closure Although this kind of pocket is most commonly used in men s attire it is also sometimes used on women s clothing mostly in pants In addition to being used as a back pocket it is also sometimes put in as a front pocket to keep the front of the trousers flat Another key difference between pockets in men s and women s clothing is the angle In men s attire the pocket is almost always horizontal In women s attire on the other hand the pocket may be at an angle especially for pockets on the front of trousers or jeans Depending on the design of the pocket it has either one or two lips A lip is simply a finishing on the opening edge of the welt pocket When there is just one lip it is usually the lower lip When there are two lips there are finished edges on the top and bottom of the pocket opening welt pocket knows many variations Broad welt side pocket FR Poche coup e passepoil e Angled pocket the outer edge of the opening has a wide welt Fashion Management Essential Glossary 33 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Primary colours FR Couleurs primaires Set of colours that can be combined to make a useful extra range of colours For additive combination of colours the primary colours normally used are red green and blue For subtractive combination of colours as in mixing of pigments or dyes such as in printing the primaries normally used are cyan magenta and yellow The combination of any two primary colours creates a secondary colour See secondary colours Primary and secondary colours chart Quilted FR Matelass When two or more layers of material are sewn together to make a thicker padded material creating a pattern of seams throughout the fabric For example the classic Chanel quilted handbag has a diamond pattern Raglan FR Raglan Widely used sleeve construction in which the underarm seam of the sleeve is extended to the neckline at the front and the back 34 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Raw Edge FR Bord franc This describes the unsewn edge of a piece of fabric Commonly seen on teeshirts at the neck arms and hem The technique produces a raw sometimes rolled effect finishing with an unstructured look sometimes unravelling Repeat FR Rapport The distance between the beginning of one complete motif or design unit and the beginning of the next identical one Can be horizontal or vertical Ruch or ruching FR Ruch It is a decorative strip edge or trim piece of gathered pleated fluted ruffled or frilled fabric on a garment The gathers are created in clothing by pulling fabric between 2 or more lines of stitching Dries Van Noten Seam FR Couture Line of stitch joining pieces of garment together See stitches Seam Allowance FR Marge de couture Narrow width between the seam line and the raw edge of the fabric Seam allowances vary depending on where they occur on the garment and the manufacturers specifications Fashion Management Essential Glossary 35 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Seam finish FR Finitions de coutures Any technique used to neaten the edge of seams prevent ravelling and improve garment durability and appearance See serging Secondary Colours FR Couleurs secondaires Combination of the primary colours to form another colour e g red and yellow orange See primary colours Serging FR Surjet Edge finish or seam made on an overlock machine called a serger in home sewing Used to prevent ravelling or as decorative stitching on the right side of the garment Also called Overlocking Silhouette FR Silhouette The outline or contour that a garment creates when worn Sleeve Head FR T te de manche Layers of shaping fabric sewn into the upper portion of the armhole and extending out into the sleeve Also known as header Sleeve head 36 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Sportswear FR Sportswear A term used to describe both day and evening fashions of varying degrees of formality that have a relaxed approach while remaining appropriate wear for many business or social occasions considered America s greatest contribution to the history of fashion design As opposed to formal wear and full dress i e black tie and tuxedo Stitch FR Point de couture A loop of thread or yarn resulting from a single pass or movement of the needle in sewing knitting or crocheting See seam types in toolkit Suede FR Cuir sued velours de cuir daim Although used in generality to describe any fabric with a velvet like finish suede refers only to the inside or flesh side of leather which is brushed to produce a nap Tartan FR Carreaux cossais or tartan Specific type of checked pattern which features a design consisting of crisscrossed horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colours Tartans originated in woven wool but now they are made in many other materials Tartan is particularly associated with Scotland Trickle up trend Fashion trends that start on the street and make their way into high fashion Trimmings FR Ornements fournitures Applied ornaments pieces of material used to decorate clothes Yoke FR Empi cement A yoke is a shaped pattern piece which forms part of a garment It is usually fitting around the neck and shoulders as a horizontal panel near the shoulders or around the waist or hips to provide support for looser parts of the garment such as a gathered skirt or the body of a shirt Fashion Management Essential Glossary 37 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN That piece is often used for shaping since dart values can sometimes be absorbed into this seam line Calvin Klein 38 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 2 FASHION DESIGN Fashion Management Essential Glossary 39 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 3 FASHION PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT 40 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 3 FASHION PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Fashion Product Development Abrasion FR Abrasion The wearing away of a textile product by rubbing During Product Development fabric can be submitted to abrasion tests to assess their performance Agile manufacturing Apparel manufacturing that utilizes a modular production system In modular production workers are organized into teams that work together to produce an entire garment In contrast to the bundle system in which one worker performs an assembly task then bundles the materials together and passes them to another worker who does another task the modular system is more efficient and flexible Approval process FR Approbation Validation Loop process securing Product Development in Fashion Stands as a gateway process whereby every element of the products must be validated as being consistent with the initial design before launching production Approval process can imply fabric pattern design colour haberdashery finishes fit etc Bar code FR Code barres It is a unique identification code on products pallets and coupons made up of more or less thick vertical bars The code is read by an electronic scanner for receiving ordering and inventory control purposes See EAN Toolkit on how to generate a bar code for a product Bespoke FR Tailleur fa on A bespoke piece of clothing refers to a garment hand crafted made from scratch and often entirely from the same cloth to fit a customer s specific measurements and requirements and often hand crafted Fashion Management Essential Glossary 41 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 3 FASHION PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Bespoke tailoring is distinct from ready to wear or off the peg suits Its origin dates back to the days of London s Savile Row when a customer ordering a garment would select and reserve a cloth or fabric which automatically made it bespoken or spoken for See tailoring made to measures Bleaching FR D lavage A method of removing colour from textile products by using chemicals in particular bleach unbleached bleached bleached Bolt of fabric FR Coupon Length of fabric wound around a flattened cardboard tube and stored on a roll Brushing or Raising FR Bross ou grate A method of producing a fabric where the fibres are brushed and teased producing a hairy surface on the surface of the fabric unbrushed brushed brushed unbrushed Calendering FR Calendrage A finishing process used on fabrics to add smoothness and lustre The process works by passing fabric between two rollers which may or may not be heated this makes the fabric flat and smooth Carding FR Cardage Mechanical process that disentangles cleans and intermixes fibres to produce a continuous web or sliver form prior to spinning 42 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 3 FASHION PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Care Labelling Care Labels FR Etiquette d entretien Care labels are used on garments and other textile products to show fibre content place of origin and after care of product plus any other relevant information See See toolkit for best practices writing care label instruction Coated fabric Coating FR Enduit Enduction Made up of two or more layers one that is a textile fabric the other is a continuous polymeric layer The two layers are bonded together using an adhesive Colour bleeding FR D gorgement Colours that run off from fabric Often originates in a flaw in the fabric colour fastness features See colour fastness Colourfast A dyed product that does not run when washed Colour fastness FR R sistance des teintes The property of a textile fabric or product to withstand resistance to things like washing light rubbing gas fumes Cut and sew FR Coup cousu In Knitwear the shape of the garment can basically be obtained through two different processes or methods fully fashioned and cut and sew With cut and sew you combine the different garment pieces by treating the knit almost like a fabric whereby you have a large square of knit that you lay the pattern pieces on and then cut out your pattern pieces and sew them together See fully fashioned unbrushed brushed Jil Sander Fashion Management Essential Glossary 43 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 3 FASHION PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT D vor FR D vor A method of printing onto a fabric with more than one fibre type where areas of the design are printed with a chemical print past to remove one of the fibre types leaving a translucent area Also know as Burn Out Print Disassembly FR D construction Taking apart or breaking down a product to see how it is made deconstruction Also know as Product Analysis Dyeing FR Teinture The process of applying colour to a textiles product by soaking it in a coloured solution Electronic Article Surveillance FR Dispositif lectronique anti vol Used on high ticket items It involves attaching specially designed tags or labels to products It is an electronic loss prevention system that signals if a product has not been de activated at a cash register Felt FR Feutre Felt is a non woven textile that is produced by matting condensing and pressing fibres together Felt can be made of natural fibres such as wool or synthetic fibres such as acrylic Finish FR Finissage Appr ts Traitements A special process applied to a yarn or fabric during production to enhance its qualities It is usually a final step in the manufacturing process 44 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 3 FASHION PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Flat sketch FR Dessin technique A flat is the technical rendering of a garment that is shown to the pattern makers so that they can figure out what features the pattern must hold in order to bring the design to life A good flat indicates proportion construction stitching details and overall aesthetic of a garment From a good flat a pattern maker or technical designer should be able to accurately advise all specs in order to make an accurate first sample Example of flat sketch Fully Fashioned or Weft Knitting FR Tricot en forme Garments or fabrics that are shaped on a knitting machine Shaping is done by increasing or decreasing the number of stitches in a design Then the pieces are basically knitted together at the seams When hand knitting this is the process applied In commercial production knitting machines would do it Fully fashioned knitwear is in general a more expensive process and has flatter seams Fully fashioned and cut and sew can also be mixed in a single garment See cut and sew unbrushed brushed Jil Sander Fashion Management Essential Glossary 45 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 3 FASHION PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Grading FR Gradation The process of making a sample size pattern larger or smaller to make up a complete size range The method scales a pattern from a basic block making it bigger or smaller to create all the necessary sizes unbrushed brushed brushed unbrushed Greige goods FR tissu produit gr ge Fabric in the raw state before dyeing or finishing processes Issue Plan FR Plan de production Production Schedule Knitwear FR Tricot Maille Garment or fabric made from yarn or thread by interlocking loops of one or more yarns either by hand with knitting needles or by machine Knitting can be either flat working back and forth and producing a flat panel or in the round i e seamless Lab dip It is a swatch of fabric test dyed to hit a colour standard The manufacturer provides colour samples according to the design team requirements The lab dip sample is made in a laboratory environment to provide a visual aid on how a colour will look like when it is dyed Several lab dips may be submitted for feedback until the standard is achieved and the lab dip is approved During the approval process lab dips are reviewed in a light box Production of the fabric will not begin unless a lab dip is approved or the product manager waives the lab dip process Approval is made in reference to the initial colour standards provided by the design team need for consistency in terms of colour matching 46 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 3 FASHION PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Layout FR Placement Used to describe the pattern formed by pattern pieces as they are laid out on fabric or on a computer screen Fashion Management Essential Glossary 47 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 3 FASHION PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Light box FR Caisson lumineux A light box is a machine where the interior is painted in a neutral colourless grey as to not skew the colour of the dip and has several options of light under which you can see your dip Usually a company will select one light source for example daylight as it s standard so both factory and home office see the lab dips under the same source The light box must be placed in a dark room or with the possibility of total darkness unbrushed brushed Material utilisation FR Emploi mati re Percentage of fabric actually used by the pattern pieces on a particular marker arrangement Companies strive for a high percentage which means that almost all of the fabric is actually used to make the garment Any fabric between the pattern pieces that is not used is scrap Modify FR Modifier To make slight changes to a product Mordant FR Mordant Usually a metallic based salt that is added to the dye bath with the dye to help the dye adhere better to the fabric It is normally used with natural dyes Non woven FR Intiss Any fabric that is bonded together rather than knit or woven such as felt Many interfacings are non woven See felt One off product FR Pi ce unique A product made to a client specification which is unique and will not be replicated Pattern repeat FR Rapport The way in which e design repeats horizontally or vertically across a length of 48 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 3 FASHION PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT fabric Also known as Repeat PDM Product Data Management Support software used by product managers and designer to share all product documentation and manage the product development process and timeline See Tech pack Pilling FR Boulochage The formation of little fuzzy balls on a fabric surface caused by the rubbing off of loose ends of fiber too long or strong to break away entirely Colloquially known as a bobble Plant capacity FR Capacit de production The quantity of garments that can be made in a factory within a given period Prepare for garment dye FR Pr t teindre Fabric is cut into the greige state bleached and sewn into a garment and later dyed into the desired colour Using prepare for garment dye allows a company to move garments to Retail more quickly As the retailer determines which colours are selling best they can quickly get back into stock on those colours RFID Radio frequency identification FR RFID Tiny microchips that contain antennas and a unique number identifying every individual product This makes products movement visible to computer systems through these antennas Sample Cut FR Coupe type A short length of fabric used to make a sample garment Sample garment FR Prototype t te de s rie It is a prototype garment produced after the toile but before full production and used to identify any final amendments It is also useful Sales Marketing purposes There are various types of samples corresponding to different stages of the collection development Original sample this type of sample is made of original fabric and accessories according to buyer specs Photo Dev sample required for Marketing and Communication purposes Here measurement is very important but need not to match 100 the fabric Fashion Management Essential Glossary 49 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 3 FASHION PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT cf hand feel etc nor accessories Sealer sample The sample that is approved for production is known as the sealing sample or sealer This sample is approved by the buyer with tag Size set all sizes of sample are produced such as S M L XL etc to check appropriateness of grading Wash sample sample used to match shade of wash with original sample after washing It is also determined by grey scale Pre Production Sample PPS First garments of bulk production Add sample see photo sample For advertising purpose Comes later in the development process than the photo dev sample Salesman sample approved sample used in showroom settings to sell the collection to potential buyers Shipment Reference sample After completion of the shipment some garments are kept in sample room which are known as shipment or reference sample Lab test sample this sample is intended to be tested by third party or buyer s nominated lab Sanforization FR Sanforisage reduction et stabilisation A process of shrinking fabrics Screen Printing FR Impression au cadre A design reproduction process developed from stencilling in which print paste is forced through unblocked areas of a mesh in contact with the substrate The mesh may be a woven fabric or a fine screen flat or cylindrical rotary screen Pressure is applied to the paste by a squeegee blade roller which is moved when the screen is stationary or stationary when the rotary screen is rotating Selvage FR Lisi re The narrow finished edges of a fabric that is woven so that it will not fray or ravel Selvages stand along both lengthwise sides of all uncut woven fabrics See woven fabrics Shrinkage FR Retrait Retr cissement Shrinkage is the process in which a fabric becomes smaller than its original size due to contraction Shrinkage usually occurs in finishing or washing through the process of laundry Skewing FR Vrilles A fabric defect resulting when the filling yarns or knitted courses are not perpendicular to the warp or fabric edges Sourcing The worldwide search for the best available fabrics or garment production at the best price 50 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 3 FASHION PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Specs FR Cahiers des charges It is a size specification or measurement on a garment There are many measurements that indicate to a pattern maker how to make a garment A list of these measurements is called a specs sheet See tech pack Stencil Printing FR Impression au pochoir This printing technique uses a template which has been cut out of card thin metal etc The uncut portions represent the part that is to be reserved or left uncoloured The colour is applied through the interstices of the template by use of brushes of sponges or by spraying onto the fabric It is one of the oldest ways of printing Strike off FR Coup de cadre Term used in textile printing It is a small test length of fabric specially printed as a sample to check the pattern registration pattern repeat and the matching shades in the design Its purpose is to establish the design and colour combination of a print or yarn dyed fabric with a printer of weaver The strike off is generally large enough to show a full repeat of the design It is produced for design and colour approval prior to proceeding to production of the full amount of yardage needed Swatch FR Echantillon A sample strip cut from a piece of material Generally applies to either fabric or colour samples See Lab dip Tailoring FR Sur mesure Production in which garments such as suits are completely original and made to the measurements of the specific client See Bespoke made to measure Tech packs FR Fiche technique Serves as documentation on a garment A tech pack will include a flat sketch detailed sketches if necessary all fabric information colour and print information trim information construction required specs See flat sketch specs etc Thread count FR Densit de fils Measured by adding the number of warps ends per inch and filling picks per square inch in the woven fabric The higher the number the more dense the yarns are packed together but unfortunately thread count has come to be the Fashion Management Essential Glossary 51 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 3 FASHION PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT major determinant of quality in some customer s eyes although the quality of the cotton and the finishing process after weaving can often be more important to the soft hand and durability of a fabric than a high thread count Toile FR Toile A trial garment made during initial design stages so that the pattern shapes can be assessed for fit and drape and adjusted if necessary The term may also be used in reference to the fabric used for this purpose typically calico or a similar inexpensive fabric unbrushed brushed Tolerance FR Tol rance The amount of the allowable difference plus or minus between the specified measurements and the actual measurements after sewing at any given part of the garment Tolerance is established by the company and noted in the specifications cf Tech pack Topstitching FR Surpiq re Stitching sewn on outside of garment at seams Wale FR C te cf velours c tel A ridge on a textured woven fabric such as corduroy 52 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 3 FASHION PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Warp FR Cha ne In weaving the warp is the set of lengthwise or longitudinal yarns that are held in tension on a frame or loom See weft Weft FR Trame The horizontal threads in a woven fabric also referred to as picks Workshop FR Studio Atelier Designer workshop Traditionally Ateliers are classified as flou for soft dressmaking or tailleur for tailoring suits and coats Woven FR Cha ne Trame The horizontal threads in a woven fabric also referred to as picks Fashion Management Essential Glossary 53 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 4 FASHION BUIYNG 54 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 4 FASHION BUYING Fashion Buying Accepted Quality Level AQL FR Standards Qualit A Quality control term used in manufacturing expressing as a percentage the amount of defective goods deemed acceptable by the buyer For mass produced clothing typical AQL is around 2 5 Activity Based Costing ABC FR Analyse ABC It is a financial management tool in which all major activities within a cost centre are identified calculated and then charged to cost objects such as stores product categories product lines specific products customers and suppliers It measures business profits and costs by taking into account both overheads and the cost of wasteful or inefficient practices two items that are not considered in conventional accounting methods Back order FR Reliquats de commandes A part of an order that the vendor has not filled completely and that the vendor intends to ship as soon as the goods in question are available Bill of Lading FR Connaissement A document signed by a carrier or the carrier s representative and issued to a consignor the shipper of goods that evidences the receipt of goods for shipment to a specified designation and person Carriers using all modes of transportation issue bills of lading when they undertake the transportation of cargo A bill of lading is in addition to a receipt for the delivery of goods a contract for their carriage and a document of title to them Its terms describe the freight for identification purposes state the name of the consignor and the provisions of the contract for shipment It also directs the cargo to be delivered to the order of a particular person the consignee at a designated location There are two basic types of bills of lading 1 A straight bill of lading is one in which the goods are consigned to a designated party 2 An order bill is one in which the goods are consigned to the order of a named party Fashion Management Essential Glossary 55 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 4 FASHION BUIYNG This distinction is important in determining whether a bill of lading is negotiable capable of transferring title to the goods covered under it by its delivery or endorsement If its terms provide that the freight is to be delivered to the bearer or possessor of the bill to the order of a named party or as recognized in overseas trade to a named person or assigns a bill as a document of title is negotiable In contrast a straight bill is not negotiable See clean bill of lading Broker FR Agent ou courtier A person who buys or sells merchandise for other individuals brands and earns a commission or profit based upon a percent of product price Buying Office FR Centrale d Achats It is a central office where buyers purchase merchandise for all stores in a chain store structure or for many stores See chain store in the Retail Glossary Buying plan FR Plan d achats Spreadsheet derived from the Line Plan and from the Merchandising Plan which states the quantity of goods a buyer plans to purchase for a department over a given period of time See Line Plan Merchandising Plan Open To Buy Cargo FR Fret Freight hauled by any king of transportation method available cf ship plane truck etc Carrier FR Transporteur Supplier in charge of transporting goods or people Carrier types include ships airplanes trucks and railroads See logistics Certificate of Origins CO FR Certificat d Origine Document required when importing goods in a market which certifies a shipment s country of origin This certificate testifies the goods purchased in a country have actually been produced in that country Under most trade agreements traders have to submit duly completed CO to their international counterparts to claim custom duties full or partial exemptions or to qualify for quota rules cf with textile imports Also called declaration of origin 56 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 4 FASHION BUYING Charterer FR Affr teur Chartering is an activity within the shipping industry In some cases a charterer may own cargo and employ a shipbroker to find a ship to deliver the cargo for a certain price A charterer may also be a party without a cargo who takes a vessel on charter for a specified period from the owner and then trades the ship to carry cargoes at a profit above the hire rate or even makes a profit in a rising market by reletting the ship out to other charterers Clean Bill of Lading FR Connaissement net sans r serves A bill of lading accepted by the carrier for goods received in appropriate condition no damaged or missing items vs Dirty or foul Bill of Lading Cost complement FR Coefficient multiplicateur Relationship between the cost of a given merchandise and its retail value during a given accounting period Cost complement cost of goods Retail value of goods Equivalent to cost multiplier or cost percent Cost of Goods Sold COGS FR Prix de revient The price paid for the product plus any additional costs necessary to get the merchandise into inventory and ready for sale including shipping and handling Days of supply D O S FR Taux de couverture Retailers perspective The amount of product calculated to meet customer demand between replenishments expressed in number of selling days Manufacturers perspective it corresponds to the lead time to deliver the shipment Used to calculate reorder point Defectives FR D fectueux Merchandise that is incomplete or faulty Delivery Order D O FR BL Bon de livraison Document from a consignor a shipper or an owner of freight which orders the release of the transportation of cargo to another party Usually the written order permits the direct delivery of goods to a warehouseman carrier or other person who in the course of their ordinary business issues warehouse receipts or bills of lading Downstream FR Aval In manufacturing refers to processes that occur later on in a production sequence or production line Fashion Management Essential Glossary 57 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 4 FASHION BUIYNG The Manufacturing process consists of such sub processes as Design Tooling Inventory Management Receiving Assembly and others The products being manufactured are created in a sequence of processes Any process occurring after another is considered to be downstream See upstream Economies of scale FR Economies d chelle A manufacturing concept applied when referring to savings resulting from the spreading of fixed costs over a larger base be it products service people etc European Article Number EAN FR EAN A European 13 digits bar code that identifies products and shipping containers which is compatible with U S and Canadian UPCs although there are differences in format Equivalent to UCC EAN 128 Uniform Commercial Code EA N UCC 128 See bar code Freight FR Fret All goods shipped by rail road water be it by express or regular mail See cargo Freight forwarder FR Transitaire Commissionnaire de transport A person or company that organizes shipments for individuals or other companies A forwarder is often not active as a carrier and acts only as an agent in other words as a third party non asset based logistics provider that dispatches shipments via asset based carriers and that books or otherwise arranges space for these shipments Equivalent to Forwarder forwarding agent Gross Margin FR Marge brute Gross margin Net Sales Cost of Merchandise Sold Gross margin Profit Expenses Gross margin is an important figure because it shows the costs on merchandise alone Sales and cost of merchandise sold are figures over which the buyer has a great deal of control It shows at a glance whether sales and or cost of merchandise sold figures need improvements Equivalent to Gross Profit Groupage FR Groupage Service consisting in consolidating small shipments into larger containers for movement Aims at reducing the global cost for goods transportation Equivalent to LTL 58 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 4 FASHION BUYING Hang Tag FR Etiquette d identification A manufacturer s label that describes the merchandise Equivalent to the hanging price tag used on garments and other merchandise Incoterms 2010 International Commercial Terms FR Incoterms Incoterms rules are published by the International Chamber of Commerce ICC and provide since 1936 globally accepted contractual standards linked to commercial transactions They relate to a series of three letter trade terms reflecting Business to Business common sales practices in contracts for the sale of goods They are intended primarily to clearly communicate the tasks costs and risks associated with the transportation and delivery of goods In short they determine how costs and risks are allocated to the parties They define the responsibilities of buyers and sellers for the delivery of goods under sales contracts nowadays encompassing both domestic and international perspectives The Incoterms have been simplified and updated in 2010 in order to take into account the latest developments in commercial practices Contracts should formally make reference to the Incoterms 2010 rules as the latest version How to use the Incoterms 2010 rules 1 Incorporate the Incoterms 2010 rules into your contract of sale 2 Choose the appropriate Incoterms which needs to be appropriate to the kind of goods the means of their transport whether the parties intend to put additional obligations e g obligation to organise carriage or insurance on the seller or the buyer 3 Specify your place or port as precisely as possible 4 Remember that Incoterms rules do not give you a complete contract of sale In particular they do not determine ownership or transfer title to the goods nor evoke payment terms apply to service contracts nor define contractual rights or obligations except for delivery or breach of contract remedies Protect parties from their own risks or loss nor cover the goods before or after delivery Specify details of the transfer transport and delivery of the goods Container loading is not considered packaging and must be addressed in the sales contract Fashion Management Essential Glossary 59 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 4 FASHION BUIYNG Main features of Incoterms 2010 rules The new version has simplified the Incoterms into 11 Incoterms which are grouped under 2 distinct classes 1 Rules for any modes of transport EXW Ex Works FCA Free Carrier CPT Carriage Paid To CIP Carriage and Insurance Paid To DAT Delivered At Terminal DAP Delivered At Place DDP Delivered Duty Paid They can be used irrespective of the mode of transport selected and whether one or more than one mode of transport is employed They can be used in cases where a ship is used for part of the carriage 2 Rules for sea and inland waterway transport FAS Free Alongside Ship FOB Free On Board CFR Cost and Freight CIF Cost Insurance and Freight In that second class of Incoterms the point of delivery and the place to which the goods are carried to the buyer are both ports 60 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 4 FASHION BUYING INCOTERMS 2010 SUMMARY CHART Transport Mode Any Transport modes Sea Inland Waterways Franco Alongside Ship At named port terminal Franco on Board Cost Freight To named destination port Cost Insurance Freight Delivered At Terminal Delivered At Place Carriage Paid To Carriage Insurance Paid to Delivered Duty Paid Services where risk passes from seller to buyer Free Carrier Incoterms 2010 Buyer s Responsibility Ex Works At named place of delivery Seller s responsibility EXW FCA FAS FOB CFR CIF DAT DAP CPT CIP DDP Packaging packing Marking labelling Loading on truck carrier Export clearance Customs declaration licence Carriage to port of export inland freight to main carrier Unloading of truck in port of export Origin Terminal charges Vessel loading charges Ocean freight Air freight Assign export forwarder Carriage to port of import Insurance Unload main carrier charges in port of import Destination terminal charges Assign on carrier Complete Security Information Requirements Pay Customs broker clearance fees Complete Import Formalities duty customs fees taxes Loading on truck in port of import Delivery to Buyer Destination Delivering carrier unloading N B Incoterms are not law and there is no default incoterm Fashion Management Essential Glossary 61 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 4 FASHION BUIYNG Letter of Credit L C FR Lettre de credit The term derives from the French word accr ditation a power to do something A letter of credit is a document issued by a financial institution a bank or a similar party assuring payment to a seller of goods and or services provided certain documents e g a Bill of Lading etc have been presented to the bank The letter guarantees that a buyer s payment to a seller will be received on time and for the correct amount In the event that the buyer is unable to make payment on the purchase the bank will be required to cover the full or remaining amount of the purchase List price FR Prix tariff The price at which items are listed for sale before discounts or allowances See Price list Loss leader FR Produit d appel An item priced near or below costs to attract customer traffic into the store LTL Less Than Load FR Groupage This term is generally utilized in the transportation industry Referring to freight that does not completely fill a shipping container Equivalent to groupage Open to Buy OTB FR Open To Buy Open to By OTB is used as a control device to see that purchasing is done according to the merchandising plan Most retailers establish a maximum level of inventory they can afford to have on hand The Open to Buy is the amount of merchandise the retailer can still buy before reaching that ceiling Thus it enables the buyer to determine the balance of purchases remaining in money value or in unit for a given period Difference between planned purchases and the purchase commitments already made by a buyer for a given time period often a month It represents the amount the buyer has left to spend for that month and is reduced each time a purchase is made OTB cannot be determined unless the amount of stock on hand is known This amount may be obtained either by a physical inventory count or calculated through the retail method of inventory OTB Merchandise Needed Merchandise Available OTB Planned Sales Planned End Of Month Stock Markdowns Inventory on Hand Merchandise on Order If the need is greater than the merchandise available the buyer is OTB If the reverse is true the buyer has overbought 62 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 4 FASHION BUYING Order backlog FR Reliquat de commandes Order which is still to be processed Order Lead Time FR D lai d ex cution d une commande The period from the date an order is placed by a retailer to the date merchandise is ready for sale received price marked and put on the selling floor Order point FR Seuil de r approvisionnement The amount of inventory below which the quantity available shouldn t go or the item will be out of stock before the next order arrives See reorder point Packing list FR Liste de colisage It is a list showing the number and kind of items being shipped as well as other information needed for transportation purposes Price list FR Tarif A manufacturer s listing of all products by UPC and price Procurement FR Achats Purchasing merchandise from wholesaler for resale at the retail level Equivalent to Buying Pro forma invoice FR Facture Pro Forma A preliminary invoice indicating the value of the item listed It is not a demand for money Purchase Order PO FR Ordre d achat Form used by buyers to place an order and give written authorization to a vendor to deliver specified merchandise It details the exact merchandise or services to be rendered from a single vendor It will specify price and payment terms delivery dates item identification quantities shipping terms and all other obligations and conditions Purchase orders are generally pre printed numbered documents generated by the retailer s financial management system which shows that purchase details have been recorded and payment will be made Once accepted by the vendor the purchase order becomes a legally binding purchase contract Quality check FR Contr le Qualit Process of product checking carried out by the receiving department where the condition of arriving merchandise is verified against original buying specifications and label quality standards Fashion Management Essential Glossary 63 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 4 FASHION BUIYNG Quantity check FR Contr le Quantit Process of product checking carried out by the receiving department in which correctness of quantities received is verified Quotation FR Cotation prix An offer to sell goods at a stated price and under specified conditions Reorder Point FR Seuil de r approvisionnement The stock level at which new orders must be placed A designated inventory level at which additional product should be ordered Re order points are generally related to shelf capacity and item case pack Reorder point Usage rate x Lead Time Safety Stock See Safety Stock order point Returns FR Retours marchandises Unsold damaged or defective merchandise sent back to a supplier or distributor for credit against future sales or refund Also known as RTV Return to Vendor Roll out FR D ploiement An approach to new product introduction in which a product is launched in a series of geographic areas over an extended period Safety stock FR Stock de s curit Extra inventory to protect against going out of stock when demand exceeds forecasts or when merchandise undergo delays in delivery See Reorder point order point Seasonal merchandise FR Article saisonnier Goods designed to sell only during specified seasons Seasonal may be literal such as summer clothing or figurative such as the Christmas or Easter seasons Shipper FR Chargeur Exp diteur A shipper can be someone who sends goods for shipment by packaging labelling and arranging for transit or who coordinates the transport of goods Showroom FR Showroom Facilities maintained by manufacturers suppliers brands etc for the purpose of displaying goods to buyers 64 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 4 FASHION BUYING Specification buying FR Cahier des charges achats Demands made by retailers and wholesalers to manufacturers of the products they sponsor and sell Staples FR Produits de base Products that are purchased routinely for everyday use with little decisionmaking and that must be in stock at all times such as cleaning supplies and food Suggested Retail Price SRP FR Prix de vente conseill The retail price suggested by the manufacturer Supplier FR Fournisseur A generic term for wholesalers who sell to and supply retailers directly and indirectly e g manufacturer vendor broker reseller Supply Chain FR Supply Chain Cha ne logistique The process of fulfilment and movement of goods See Fulfilment in the Retail Glossary Terms FR Ech ancier The payment schedule for goods received Terms of purchase FR Conditions G n rales d Achats Conditions in a purchase agreement with a vendor that include the type s of discounts available and responsibility for transportation costs Tracking FR Tracabilit The information given to monitor progress of a particular shipment to its destination UPS FedEx and Most freight companies will assign a number to your shipment This number will show various details of your delivery such as the date to expect arrival cf ETD Expected Time of Delivery Most of the time you will have the ability to insert the tracking number into the freight carriers website for detailed information Universal Product Code UPC FR Code produit universel A classification for coding data onto products by a series of thick and thin vertical lines also known as bar code It lets retailers record data instantaneously as to the model number size colour and other factors when an item is sold and to transmit the data to a computer monitoring unit sales inventory levels and other factors The UPC is not readable by humans Universal Vendor Marketing UVM FR Marquage universel du fournisseur Product code that appears as a series of numbers across the top of a price tag Fashion Management Essential Glossary 65 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 4 FASHION BUIYNG Upstream FR Amont Upstream is the opposite of downstream See downstream Wholesaling FR Grossistes Consists in buying to manufacturers and warehousing goods in large quantities before selling them to retailers Wholesalers do not sell to endusers Yarn FR Fils Generic term for a continuous strand spun from a group of natural or synthetic staple fibres or filaments used in weaving knitting to form textile fabrics 66 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 4 FASHION BUYING Fashion Management Essential Glossary 67 Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 5 FASHION SELLING 68 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 5 FASHION SELLING Fashion Selling Celebrity endorsement A form of advertising that involves famous personalities or celebrities who command a high degree of recognition trust respect or awareness amongst the people Such people advertise for a product using their fame and lending their name or image to promote a product or service Advertisers and clients hope such approval or endorsement by a celebrity will influence buyers favourably Clearance FR D stockage Selling inventory at reduced prices at the end of a season or life cycle to move excess stock Closeouts FR fin de s rie Merchandise that is no longer being manufactured that is sold at reduced prices to clear out remaining inventory Consumer Behaviours FR Comportements des Consommateurs Involves the process by which people determine whether what when where how from whom and how often to purchase goods and services See consumer decision process Consumer Decision Process FR Processus de d cision d achats The stages a consumer goes through in buying a piece of goods or service i e Stimuli Problem awareness Information search Evaluation of alternatives Purchase Demographics and life style factors affect this decision process Post purchase Cross Sell FR Vente crois e Cross selling refers to a sales technique in which the salesperson recognizes what a customer is purchasing and will make suggestions or recommendations of other related merchandise that the shopper may also be interested in purchasing Equivalent to Suggestive Selling Refers to Product matrix cf Tool Box Fashion Management Essential Glossary 69

SECTION 5 FASHION SELLING Dead Stock FR Stock obsolete Merchandise that cannot be sold This type of product has never been worn used or sold and has been in inventory for an extended period of time It often has original packaging and tags Equivalent to NOS Never Off Shelf or New Old Stock Discount FR Remise To sell at a price below the normal list price Discounts are often given in response to the market environment Display FR Merchandising Display Visual presentation of data or merchandise Dump bin FR Corbeille Case display that houses piles of sale merchandise Holding power FR Capacit de chargement Shelf capacity Horizontal display FR Pr sentation horizontale Stocking a line of similar products so they form a horizontal pattern across a single shelf Also known as Horizontal Set Horizontal Arrangement Impulse Purchases impulse buy FR Achats d impulsion Occurs when consumers purchase products and or brands they had not planned on buying before entering a store reading a mail order catalogue seeing a TV shopping show turning to the World Wide Web and so on It is an unplanned purchase promoted by visual or other sensory stimulations See consumer decision process In line product FR Permanent Products that are permanently ordered and stocked for a store In stock FR Produit permanent et en stock Products regularly carried currently stocked on the shelves and available for purchase See out of stock Off price merchandise FR Sold s Merchandise that carries prestige or premium label offered at lower than regular prices 70 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

SECTION 5 FASHION SELLING Off the rack FR Pr t Porter Ready made clothing Equivalent to Ready To Wear RTW Out of stock O O S FR En rupture de stocks A product temporarily oversold and unavailable in a retail store Also referring to product not in supply in the warehouse In wholesaling it is a customer service standard or KPI used and measured as a percentage of orders placed that cannot be filled Also known as Outs On sale items FR Produit d marqu An item that is temporarily reduced in price advertised or not advertised and marked by in store signs Planogram FR Planogramme Structured plan for displaying a line of merchandise on the shelf so as to maximize their visibility and sale Allocates products by the number of facings and or the depth of the display By following the planogram restocking shelves remains orderly and as planned Product placement An advertising technique used by companies to subtly promote their products through a non traditional advertising technique usually through appearances in film television or other media Product placements are often initiated through an agreement between a product manufacturer and the media company in which the media company receives economic benefit A company will often pay a fee to have their product used displayed or significantly featured in a movie or show Trunk show Special sale in which vendors clothing companies fashion designers etc present merchandise directly to store personnel or select customers at a retail location or another unique venue In many cases trunk shows allow store personnel to preview and or purchase merchandise before it is made available to the public Visual Merchandising FR Merchandising Etalagisme The display of products which makes them appealing attractive accessible engaging and enticing to shoppers in a retail store Visual merchandising utilizes displays colour lighting smells sounds digital technology and interactive elements to catch customers attention and persuade them to make purchases Visual merchandising helps convey the image of the brand and reflects the personality of the target markets that the retail store wants to attract Fashion Management Essential Glossary 71

INDEX

INDEX Definition Page 4 5 4 calendar FR Calendrier Distributeur 5 5 pocket FR 5 poches 15 80 20 rule FR R gle des 20 80 5 A Abrasion FR Abrasion 41 Accessories FR Accessoires 5 Accordion pleats FR pliss accord on pliss soleil 26 Activity Based Costing FR m thode ABC 55 Add sample 49 Adoption process FR process d adoption 5 Agile manufacturing 41 A Line 15 AOP All Over Print 16 Apparel price range FR Gamme de prix 6 Appliqu FR Appliqu 16 Armscye FR Emmanchure 16 Aspirational 15 Approval process FR Approbation 41 AQL Accepted Quality Level 55 Assortment FR Assortiment 6 Assortment breadth FR Largeur d assortiment 6 Assortment depth FR Profondeur d assortiment 6 Assortment plan FR Plan d assortiment 6 Avant garde FR Avant garde 16 B Back order FR reliquat de commande 55 Bar code FR Code barres 41 Basic stock list FR Liste des r f rences 7 Basque FR Basque 16 Batwing FR Manche chauve souris 17 Benchmarking FR Benchmarking 7 Bespoke FR sur mresure 41 Bias FR Biais 17 Bill of lading FR Connaissement 55 Bishop sleeve FR Manche bouffante 17 Fashion Management Essential Glossary 73

INDEX Definition Page Bleaching FR D lavage 42 Bolt FR Coupon 42 Boot cut FR Jeans bottillons Boot cut 18 Bottom FR Bas 7 Box pleats FR Plis ronds 29 Broad welt side pocket FR Poche coup e passepoil e 33 Broker FR Agent Courtier 56 Brushing or raising FR Bross Gratt 42 Buying Office FR Centrale d Achats 56 Buying Plan FR Plan d achats 56 C Cable knit FR Torsad 18 CAD Computer Aided Design FR CAO 18 Calendering FR Calendrage 42 Cannibalisation FR Cannibalisation 7 Capsule collection FR Collection capsule 7 Carding FR Cardage 42 Care labelling Care labels FR Etiquette d entretien 43 Cargo FR Fret 56 Carrier FR transporteur 56 Cartridge pleats 29 Casing FR Tunnel 18 Celebrity endorsement 69 Certificate of Origins CO FR Certificat d origine 56 Charterer FR affr teur 57 Classification merchandise FR Nomenclature Produits 7 Clean bill of lading FR connaissement net sans reserves 57 Clearance FR d stockage 69 Closeouts FR fins de s ries 69 Coated fabric Coating 39 Cost complement FR Coefficient multiplicateur 57 COGS Cost of Goods Sold 51 Collection 8 Colour bleeding FR D gorgement 43 Colour blocking 19 74 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

INDEX Definition Page Colourfast 43 Colourfastness FR R sistance des teintes 43 Consumer Behaviours FR Comportements clients 69 Consumer Decision Process FR Processus de d cision d achat 69 Consumer panel FR Panel Consommateurs 8 Coordinates FR Coordonn s 8 Core collection assortment FR oeur de collection 8 Core Customers FR clients cl s 8 Cost complement FR coefficient multiplicateur 51 Cut and sew FR Coup Cousu 43 Cross sell FR vente crois e 69 D Dart FR Pince 19 Days of Supply DOS FR Nombre de jours de couverture 57 Dead stock FR stock obsol te 70 Dealer brand FR Marque de distributeur 8 Deep narrow FR Profond et troit 8 Defectives FR D fectueux 57 Delivery Order FR Bon de Livraison BL 57 Demographics FR Donn es d mographiques 8 Depth FR Profondeur d assortiment 9 D vor FR D vor 44 Diffusion Line FR LIgne diffusion 9 Disassembly FR D construction 44 Discount FR Remise 70 Display FR Merchandising display 70 Distressed FR Vieilli 19 Downstream FR Aval 57 Drop the hem of a garment FR Rallonger 19 DTM Dyed To Match 19 Dump bin 70 Dyeing FR Teinture 44 E EAN FR EAN 58 Ease pleat see kick pleat FR Plis d aisance 30 Fashion Management Essential Glossary 75

INDEX Definition Page Economies of scale FR Economies d chelle 58 Electronic Article Surveillance EAS FR dispositif lectronique antivol 44 Empire line FR Style empire 20 F Fabric grain FR Fil du tissu 20 Fair Isle 21 Felt FR Feutre 44 Finish or finishing FR Finissage appr ts traitements 44 Fit or Fitting FR Ajustage Mise au point 21 Flap pocket FR Poche rabat 31 Flat sketch FR Dessin technique 45 Fluted pleast FR Plis tuyaux 29 Fortuny pleats 29 Forecasts FR Pr vision de Vente 9 Freight FR Fret 58 Fullness FR AIsance 21 Fully fashioned or welt knitting FR Tricot en forme 45 French cuffs FR Manchettes revers 22 Freight forwarder FR transitaire 58 Frog closure or Frog fastening FR Bran debourg 22 G Gathered 22 Gauge FR Jauge 23 Godets FR Godets 23 Grading FR Gradation 46 Grain Line FR Droit fil 20 Greige goods FR Tissu produit gr ge 46 Gross margin FR Marge brute 58 Groupage FR Groupage 58 Gusset pocket FR Poche soufflets 31 H Haberdashery FR Mercerie 23 Hand or Handle FR Main ou touch 23 Handwarmer pouch FR Poche kangourou 31 Hang tag FR etiquette d identification 59 76 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

INDEX Definition Page Haute Couture FR Haute Couture 24 Holding power FR Capacit de chargement 70 Honeycomb pleats FR SMocks 30 Horizontal display FR pr sentation horizontale 70 I Impulse purchase buy FR Achats d impulsion 70 Incoterms FR Incoterms 59 Initial mark up FR coefficient de marge 9 In line products FR Permanent 70 Inset pocket FR Poche incrust e 32 In stock FR produit permanent et en stock 70 Issue plan FR Plan de production 46 Intarsia FR Intarsia 25 Inverted box pleats FR Plis creux 29 Inventory FR Inventaire physique 9 K Kangaroo pocket FR Poche kangourou 29 Kick pleat FR Pli d aisance 30 Knife pleat FR Pli couch 30 Knitwear FR Tricot 46 Knock off FR Copie 25 L Lab dip 46 Lab test sample 49 Lapels FR Revers 25 Lay out FR Placement 47 Letter of Credit L C FR Lettre de credit 62 Light box FR Caisson Lumineux 48 Like for like sales FR Ventes p rim tre comparable 9 Line FR Collection 9 Line Plan FR Plan de Collection 9 Lining FR Doublure 25 List price FR Prix tarif 62 LTL Less Than Load FR Groupage 62 Loss Leader FR produit d appel 62 Fashion Management Essential Glossary 77

INDEX Definition Page M Mandarin collar FR Col Mao 25 Margin blending FR Compensation de marges 10 Markdown FR D marque 10 Markdown percentage FR Taux de d marque 10 Mark up 10 Mark up at costs FR taux de marge 10 Mark up at retail FR taux de marque 10 Material utilisation FR Emploi mati re 48 Modify FR Modifier 48 Mood Board FR Planches Tendances 26 Mordant FR Mordant 48 Motif FR Motif 26 Model stock plan at retail FR Taux de d marque 10 N Non woven FR Intiss 48 O Off price merchandise FR Article d marqu 70 Off The Rack FR Pr t Porter 71 One off product FR Pi ce unique 48 On sale items FR Article d marqu 71 Opening price point FR Prix d appel 10 Open To Buy OTB FR Opent to Buy 62 Open work or Peek a boo Ajour 26 Order backlog FR reliquat de commandes 63 Order lead time FR D lai de commande 63 Order Point FR seuil de r approvisionnement 63 Organ Pleat 30 Original sample 49 Out of stock FR Rupture de stocks 71 Overlocking FR Surjet 36 Overstock FR Surstocks 10 P Packing list 63 Patch pocket FR Poche plaqu e poche appliqu e 32 78 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

INDEX Definition Page Patent FR Cuir vernis 27 Pattern FR Motif Patron 27 Pattern repeat FR Rapport 48 PDM 49 Peak season FR Pic saisonnier 10 Peek a boo see open work FR Ajour 26 Per annum FR Par an 10 Photo Dev Sample 49 Pilling FR Boulochage 49 Pinking FR Denture Crantage 28 Piping FR Piping 28 Plant capacity FR Capacit de production 49 Pleats FR Plis 28 Planogram FR Planogramme 71 PLM FR Gesion du cycle de vie du produit 10 Pocket FR Poche 31 PPS Pre Production Sample 49 Prepare for garment dye FR Pr t teindre 49 Price elasticity of demand FR Elasticit prix de la demande 11 Price list FR Prix tarif 63 Price point FR prix de r f rence 11 Primary colours FR Couleurs primaires 34 Private label FR Marque propre Marque de distributeur 11 Procurement FR Achats 63 Product Life Cycle FR Cycle de vie du produit 11 Product or service mix FR Mix produits Mix Sefrvices 12 Product placement FR Cycle de vie du produit 71 Product or service planning FR Placement produits 12 Product movement record FR donn es de sorties de caisse 12 Pro forma invoice FR Facture Pro forma 63 Purchase Order PO FR ordre d achats 63 Q Quality check FR Contr le Qualit 63 Quantity check FR Contr le Quantit 64 Quilted FR Matelass 34 Quotation FR Cotation 64 Fashion Management Essential Glossary 79

INDEX Definition Page R Raglan FR raglan 34 Raw edge FR Bord franc 35 Reference price Fr Prix de reference 12 Reference sample 49 Reorder point FR Seuil de r approvisionnement 64 Repeat FR R p tition 35 Returns RTV FR Retours marchandises 64 RFID FR RFID 49 Rolled pleat 31 Roll out FR D ploiement 64 Ruch Ruching FR ruch fronces 35 S Safety stock FR Stock de s curit 64 Sales analysis FR Analyses des ventes 12 Sales curve FR Courbes des ventes 12 Sales forecasting FR Pr visions de vente 12 Sales log FR Journal des ventes 12 Sample cut FR Coupe types 49 Sample garment FR T te de series Prototype 49 Sanforisation FR Sanforisation r diction et stabilisation 50 Screen printing FR Impression au cadre 50 Sealer sample 49 Seam FR Couture 35 Seam allowance FR Valeur de couture R serve de couture 35 Seam finish FR Finition de coutures 35 Seam pocket 32 Seasonal forecasts FR Pr visions saisonni res 13 Seasonal merchandise FR Article saisonnier 64 Secondary colours FR Couleurs secondaires 36 Sell through FR Ecoulement 13 Selvage FR Lisi re 50 Serging FR Surjet 36 Shipper FR chargeur 64 Shipment sample 49 80 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT

INDEX Definition Page Shrinkage FR Retrait Retr cissement 50 Showroom FR Showroom 64 Silhouette FR Silhouette 36 Size set 49 Six month merchandising plan FR plan merchandising 13 Skewing FR Vrillage 50 SKU Stock Keeping Unit 13 Slash pocket FR Coup e 32 Sleeve head FR T te de manche 36 Sourcing 50 Specification buying FR Cahiers des charges Achats 65 Specs FR Cahier des charges 51 Sportswear FR Sportswear 37 SRP Suggested Retail Price FR Prix de Vente Conseill 30 Staples FR produit de base 65 Stencil printing FR Impression au pochoir 51 Stitch FR Point de couture 37 Stock Keeping Unit SKU FR Unit de stockage 13 Storecheck 13 Strike off FR coup de cadre 51 Style FR Style 13 Suede FR Velours de cuir 37 SRP Suggestive Retail Price FR PVC prix de vente conseill 65 Supplier FR Fournisseur 65 Supply chain FR Supply Chain Cha ne logistique 65 Swatch FR Echantillon 51 Syndicated data FR Donn es pan listes 14 T Tailoring FR sur mesure 51 Target market FR March cible 14 Tartan FR CArreaux cossais Tartan 37 Tech packs FR Fiche Dossier technique 51 Terms FR Ech ancier 65 Terms of purchase FR Conditions G n rales d Achats 65 Test market FR March Test 14 Thread count FR Densit de fils 51 Fashion Management Essential Glossary 81

INDEX Definition Page Toile FR toile 52 Tolerance FR Tol rance 52 Topstitching FR Surpiq re 52 Tracking FR Tra abilit 65 Trunk show 71 Trickle up trend 37 Trimmings FR Ornements Fournitures 37 U Universal Product Code FR code produit universel 65 Universal Vendor Marketing FR marquage universel du fournisseur 65 Upstream FR amont 66 V Visual Merchandising 71 W Wale FR C tes 52 Warp FR Cha ne 53 Wash sample 49 Weft FR Trame 53 Welt pocket FR Poche passepoil es 33 Woven FR Cha ne et Trame 53 Workshop FR Atelier 53 Wholesaling FR vente en gros 64 Y Yarn FR Fils 66 Yoke FR Empi cement 37 82 Fashion Management Essential Glossary Nathalie RAMANANTSOA FRAT