Cheers Northwest November 2019 : simplebooklet.com

4 Cheers NW • November 2019CHEERS NORTHWESTContributsHANNAH SUTTONANTHONY ST. CLAIRMATTHEW MEADORVALERIE ESTELLE ROGERSFrom ction writing to craft beer fea-tures, travel writing to food blogging, Anthony has worked as a professional writer and online content specialist since 2000. Credits include Beer West, Eugene Magazine,The Register-Guard, Oregon Beer Growler, FIX.com, Oregon Business and more.Travel writer, Valerie Rogers is many things. Among them are expert traveler, average golfer, Pinot Noir consumer, slow-dinner acionado and a Portland Timbers fan. She wants to “travel the world and always return home to McMinnville, Oregon, the best little big town on the planet.”After nding her niche on her school newspaper staff, Hannah earned her degree in journalism at CSULB. She has since become a marketing manager, and enjoys writing about everything from tequila tastings and craft beer to the best gyms in her hometown to how to clean makeup brushes. Matthew Meador once drank three bottles of cabernet at a friend’s wedding. The resulting hangover convinced him writing about wine might be an alternative to just drinking it. He is now on a mission to share the power food and drink have to bring people together. TAMMY COOK • PUBLISHERDirector of Sales & Marketing971.261.9651 tammy@cheersnorthwest.com Reection on last month’s inaugural edition of Cheers Northwest evokes many emotions: excitement, accom-plishment, nervousness, beauty and color — lots of color. When I traveled to spread the word about the Novem-ber issue, I discovered the harvest was in full swing. The sights, sounds and smells were vibrant, and the teams in the vineyards were hustling and picking fruit, sending it off to sort. The hues of the grapes were bright, bold and beautiful as if I was sipping a beautiful pinot noir or sensing a sparkling wine tickling my nose. I listened as winemakers, brewers and distillers described their hard work and visions of their futures. The creativity and dedication to qual-ity demonstrated by the men and women creating wine, beer and spir-its amazes me — the processes are intricate, some venerably traditional, others freshly innovative. It’s all un-derscored by the beauty I see on my drive to a Northwest winery or to a downtown Portland brewery to introduce this magazine. The bold hues of the trees — burnt reds, pale yellows and tangerine tinges — make sure we know the season of change TAMMY COOKPUBLISHERPATTY MAMULAPatty is a freelance art, entertain-ment, and culture writer based in Portland, Oregon. Patty says "the Pacic Northwest is home to industrious and innovative shermen, farmers, artists, and craftsmen who create the unique avor of the Pacic Northwest." She tells their stories.ROBERT SUDEITHGeneral Manager503.899.8999 robert@cheersnorthwest.comCHRISTY NIELSEN • Creative Director971.237.0552•christy@cheersnorthwest.comCHEERS NORTHWESTContact Usis upon us. Even the workers in the the vineyard are clad in the warmer autumn palate of browns, tans and beiges. This season is the time to discover the latest avored spirit made of huckle-berries or the pumpkin cinnamon beer or the celebrated wines of the region. If you’re like me, you slow down. Stop, look and listen to what the harvest brings. Soon we’ll be sampling the incredible tastes making up the bounty of the Pacic Northwest. Enjoy the November issue of Cheers Northwest — the colors will take your breath away! As always, Cheers!

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6 Cheers NW • November 2019CHEERS NORTHWESTSwag Oh boy. Bacon, bacon, and more ba-con. Did we mention this is for bacon lovers only? This amazing sampler includes 1 pound each of our award-winning Thick-sliced Classic bacon, dry-cured Thick-sliced Peppered Bacon, Apple-wood-smoked Thick-sliced Bacon, Applewood-smoked Beef Bacon, dry-cured Canadian Bacon, and a 2 pound Honey-cured Boneless Nugget Ham. CarltonFarms.com Do you, or someone spe-cial in your life, love books? Then these flowers are the perfect literary gift. Using damaged books that would other-wise soon be sent to recycling centers or landfills, Literary Blooms creates beautiful, lifelike roses that will last a lifetime. Their rose design gives you the most unique, highest quality, and lifelike rose you will find. Every petal is hand cut and shaped. Text and illustrations will vary from flower to flower. Just like in nature, no two flowers are alike. Unlike nature, our flowers will last for years to come. LiteraryBlooms.com Perfect for holiday gift giving. An old-fash-ioned wooden picking basket filled with seasonal fresh fruit including pears, navel oranges, tangerines and kiwi plus assorted varieties of apples, grapefruit and more! 13 Pounds of fruit!HarvestFresh.com In fashion, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but quality should never be a compromise. No matter what you're looking for, Nemophilist Outfitters guaranteeS durability. We are committed to provid-ing you styles that have quality built in and will last through the wear and tear of your day. Their goal is to put the "fun" in func-tional fashion. They know that looking stylish can make your whole day better. Get the quality you deserve. NemophilistOutfitters.com Melting Pot Candy’s delicious, award winning Toffee is made with Belgian dark chocolate, hand selected almonds which are minced to perfection, and carefully put together with love and magic. The perfect combination of dark chocolate, almond, and toffee in each bite! You can visit the shop in historic downtown Independence at 206 S. Main Street or call them at 503.930.3525. MeltingPotCandy.com

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8 Cheers NW • November 2019One hour west of Portland lies thecommunity of Carlton, population2,000, give or take a few. With onebustling main street plus a few down-town side streets, it’s possible todrive right through Carlton in mereminutes. But I’m telling you now,don’t drive through. Instead, stop,explore and give yourself the gift ofdiscovering what Carlton residentsalready know: this little town is full ofbig fun, exciting community events,great food and amazing wineries.Carlton is thriving.Boasting the prestige of thehighest number of tasting roomsper capita in the U.S., it’s easy toget lost on a day of Carlton winetasting, having parked your car onlyonce. Fifteen tasting rooms lie withinwalking distance, eleven of those ina four-block radius. If you add thepleasant half-mile stroll west to Carl-ton Winemakers Studio, you can visitCana’s Feast Winery right next door,then discover 16 additional labels totry! No, this isn’t a bawdy bachelor-ette party challenge I’m suggesting,it’s just the facts. A short walk eastfrom the center of town on MainStreet, you’ll reach Carlo & JulianWinery, where locally grown malbecand merlot are poured alongsidepinot noir. If you want to stay withthe big reds a bit longer, be sure tovisit the Troon Wine Bar. Troon vinesand wines hail from Southern Oregonin the Applegate Valley region. For11 years, Troon has been pouringin Carlton, proving a good comple-ment to its pinot neighbors. Thelandmark Ken Wright Cellars tastingroom can be found in the historic railstation and not-to-miss — one of myfavorites — Carlton Cellars and itsRoad’s End pinot noir, can be foundjust 500 feet away. With its recentlyrenovated historic grain elevator,Flâneur Wines is the sizzling hotnewcomer to Carlton. You can’tmiss it, just look up — it’s the tallestbuilding in town. Finally, still dustingoff boxes from their establishing aCarlton tasting room, meet Big TableFarm Winery.An expert wine taster — or pretendsommelier — is usually also anexpert diner because it’s no secret:wine and food have an unbreakablemarriage bond. Dining in Carlton isfull of options and, yes, I’ve triedthem all. Breakfast staples are foundat the Carlton Bakery and Barrel 47.VISITING CARLTON, OREGONBY VALERIE ESTELLE ROGERSThe small but significant epicenter of the North Willamette Valley’s farm and wine scenePHOTOS BY VALERIE ESTELLE ROGERS

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9November 2019 • Cheers NW The Carlton Bakery serves break-fast and lunch options as well as all the delectable pastries of your dreams — I’ve heard their macaroons are as good as those found in Paris! I’m partial to the raisin cinnamon rolls and rosemary brioche. This French-inspired artisan bakery will be relocating across the street in the next few months. They’ve matched the new space to the historic aesthetics of downtown Carlton. More space means more baguettes, here’s hoping! Barrel 47 is located in the town’s old bank building and comes com-plete with a walk-in vault. The restau-rant offers full-menu-sit-down-fare and, if you’re adventurous, order the Big Andy Skillet: three kinds of meat, gravy and a couple of eggs, just enough to start a day of serious wine tasting. As time passes between leisurely sipping and the lunch hour arrives, be sure to check out The Horserad-ish. Recently updating its vibe from light lunch fare and cheese counter to a full lunch and dinner menu, the eatery now occupies a new location a few doors down. With the oppor-tunity to expand and add another dinner option downtown, owners Ju-lie and Sean Davis are excited about this new chapter in their ourishing nearly-decade-old eatery. Of course, some things must stay the same: The Horseradish’s pastrami sand-wich and its live music are here to stay. Along with his brothers, Sean co-owns Marshall Davis Winery with a tasting room conveniently located next door to the restaurant. If you need to grab a quick lunch, many locals will direct you to the Mayla Thai Food To Go food truck. Another fast lunch can be found at the Main Street Market and Deli, which has been serving handmade traditional deli sandwiches for over 40 years. Owners Tom and Tina Bischof bought the business on Elvis’ birthday, which they just knew was a good sign! Local favorite the Main Street Monster is designed to feed two or three people — I hereby issue a challenge, good luck! In addition to breakfasts, Barrel 47 is a great location for a perfect pub fare dinner. With a keg of Ken DOWNTOWN WITHV. EstellePHOTOS BY VALERIE ESTELLE RODGERSABOVE: Delicious pastries and baked goods from Carlton Bakery ABOVE LEFT: The unique taps at Carlton and Coast Tavern

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10 Cheers NW • November 2019Wright wine on tap, a full-servicebar and cold beer, your meal willbe a hit with selections like sh andchips, prime rib or a juicy New Yorksteak. Just down the street sits theFrench bistro Cuvée, where dinerscan enjoy a three-course prix xedinner for an exceptionally afford-able price. Chef and owner GilbertHenry is native to Alsace, Franceand has the accent to prove it. Oneblock down the street at Carlton &Coast, diners can enjoy casual pubfare while picking up a game of pool,singing karaoke, winning at triviaand sampling any of the 38 brewson tap!Enter Earth & Sea, Carlton’snewest restaurant. Soft lighting,raw oysters and a well-curated winelist, what more is there? Oh, a greatcocktail bar, outdoor seating andan open-air kitchen. Owner ThomasGhinazzi didn’t miss a beat when heconverted the former Carlton Fire-house into his eclectic restaurant.The house-made crab cakes meltin your mouth and I encourage youto try the jumbo gulf shrimp servedwith Jonagold apple chutney, housepickles and a coconut curry bisque.Carlton’s success is anchored indedicated community members whogive generous volunteer time andin active local organizations like theCarlton Business Association. JulieRabung, president of the associa-tion, helps drive the CBA, inspiringcommunity participation. “Living inCarlton feels like you are surroundedby friends every day,” says Julie.“The CBA promotes events that givesurrounding communities oppor-tunities to share that feeling.” TheCBA hosts an astounding number ofevents each month — between tenDOWNTOWN WITHV. Estelle

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11November 2019 • Cheers NWand twenty — in addition to sever-al annual signature events. Every other month sees a Ladies Night Out, when downtown stores and wineries stay open late for friends to connect. In February, for those who missed it or want to relive it, comes the Adult Prom! Get fancy and go dancing just like in the old days. A St. Patrick’s Day Crawl is held in March, followed by the immensely popular Porklandia! A pre-Fathers Day weekend event, Porklandia offers 21 locations celebrating all things pig, from Cubano sandwiches to pork belly to barbecued ribs. Find the latest information on the event’s social media Facebook page — it’s packed with wine dinners, music announcements and family activities, all in Carlton. I have been coming to Carlton for thirty years and have enjoyed watch-ing the charming community grow and become a vital part of Oregon Wine Country. Once a little country town, Carlton is now a destination all its own. Sometimes seeming in the shadow of the larger neighboring city of McMinnville — which boasts a university, a population sixteen times that of Carlton and was recently rec-ognized for one of the most charm-ing main streets in America — I can condently say the community of Carlton stands alongside McMinnville as a peer, not as a competitor or a shadow. Carlton’s light shines bright. What makes living in wine country special is the can-do we’re-all-in-this-together spirit. When one town wins, we all win. When one winery wins, every winery wins. Of the delightful small towns found throughout the Willamette Valley, the drive between each is short — supporting each other is our key to success. Is Carlton a small rural town or booming wine country destination? You decide. I already have.DOWNTOWN WITHV. EstelleSPOTLIGHT ON CARLTON FARMS Providing artisan pork and premium beef sourced from a small number of Northwest family-owned farms, Carlton Farms is a 100% antibiotic and hormone-free gourmet meat shop. Wine country restaurants, Portland restaurants, ne grocers and discriminating palates all have discovered the exceptional quality of these products. This family-owned business is one of the landmark cornerstones of Carlton. In its 63rd year of serving Yamhill County, it has grown to over 90 employees and has amassed a following of 3.3K followers on Twitter, the secret is out. Believing strongly in community relationships, employees are encouraged to par-ticipate in local events and Carlton Farms donates generously each year. Do you need a holiday ham, or bacon bits, or all the steak you can dream of? You can order online and they will ship to you directly, or you can visit Carlton Farm’s onsite retail store. It is lled with stew meat, sev-eral styles of sausages, all cuts of beef and pork and you can even pick up specialty seasonings. Chef An-drew Garret of CHOPPED television fame, has created Northwest Elixirs, a variety of spicy cooking sauces, and they are in stock! Your holiday meal, tailgate party, or Tuesday eve-ning menu no longer needs decision making, your dinner answers are found at Carlton Farms. Carlton Farms is located at 10600 NW Westside Road in Carlton, Oregon. Retail store hours are M-F 9:30 - 6:00 and Saturday 9:30 - 2:00 and are closed onSunday. For more info, visit their website at www.CarltonFarms.com

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12 Cheers NW • November 2019208 W Main Street • Carlton • 503-852-7272Main Street Market & DeliIt’s a Beautiful Dayin our Neighborhood!Stop by for Breakfast or Lunch Today.We’rea Local Favorite!Carlton’sDelicious DeliMEAT AND GREETHere’s a local favorite. For 60 years we’ve served up premium-quality pork, beef, sausage and smoked products. Superior artisan meat from superior local growers. Always fresh. Always all-natural. And always from animals that are never fed hormones. You’ll nd our meats in ne food shops and online - or stop by our Willamette Valley store and say hello. Carlton Farms, the perfect accompaniment to life’s nest moments. Eat like a local.CARLTON FARMS STOREWEEKDAYS 9:30 A.M. TO 6:00 P.M.SATURDAYS 9:00 A.M. TO 2:00 P.M.10600 NW WESTSIDE ROAD • CARLTON503.852.7166 • CARLTONFARMS.COMPINOT WITH A VIEWIn McMinnville, Oregon’s Historic District, visit Pinot Vista Vineyard’s Wine Tasting Lounge for a Unique Tasting Experience.Join us for events, music, seasonal and happy hours and more!448 NE 3rd Street • McMinnville, OR • (503) 474-6361 www.PinotVistaTastingLounge.com

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14 Cheers NW • November 2019 No matter what food is on your Thanksgiving table, let’s focus on what really matters: the beer. Pairing beer with Thanksgiving cours-es doesn’t have to be hard. From everyday workhorses to limited-edition special releases, your beer menu can showcase not only the best in the region’s beer, but also the best in your holiday meal.One beer to pair them all Luckily, choosing the right Thanks-giving beers can be as simple or com-plex as you want. Can you match each course with the right craft beer? You bet. But you don’t have to. Even one beer can make a memorable meal. “If you’re going for just one beer through the whole meal, it’s a chal-lenge with so many competing avors,” says Lisa Morrison, “chief beer goddess” at Portland’s Belmont Station bottle shop and Biercafé — and also the author of Craft Beers of the Pacic Northwest: A Beer Lover’s Guide to Oregon, Washington, and British Columbia. “You will denitely want to play it on the lighter side of the palate. Bubbles can help lift the aromas to the nose and also work to scrub the palate between bites.” Lisa’s pick? Stick with light wheat ales, pilsners and Vienna-style lagers such as marzens and festbiers. “Little Beast’s Bes, a tart wheat ale, offers a bright acidity and a sturdy effervescence to stand up to the heavy hitters, like gravy and mashed potatoes,” explains Lisa, “while still being gentle enough to work with the lighter fare such as salad and veggies. Look for delicious Northwest offerings from lager juggernauts like Chuckanut, Heater Allen, Occidental, Zoglhaus and Waynder.”Pair a beer with each course Often, though, selecting a solid Thanksgiving beer lineup means picking a beer that complements each specic course. The general rule of thumb here is to start with beers that are lighter — in both avor and PINTS OF THANKSWondering what beer to pair with your Thanksgiving dinner - wonder no moreBY ANTHONY ST. CLAIRPHOTO BY RAWPIXEL FROM PIXABAY

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15November 2019 • Cheers NWcolor — and move toward the darker and more intense side of the beer spectrum. “Start with something spritzy and refreshing for appetizers, like Ale-song’s Wit,” says Morrison. “Then, move to a lager, wheat ale and/or a local cider for the main course. De-pending on what dessert is like, you could pair it with a coffee stout, but I think a rich local porter does a lot of the same thing and still gives you room for coffee too. Ecliptic’s Capella Porter would be congenial with many desserts.” That’s a sentiment shared by Jacob Faulkner Jones, director of beer ed-ucation and quality assurance at The Bier Stein in Eugene.“To make your own local pairings, keep in mind complementary and contrasting avors,” says Jones. “Always take the body of a beer into consideration.” He suggests the following craft beer lineup.Prep and starters: Czech-style pilsner (such as ColdFire Czech Pils, Eugene, Oregon). A solid pilsner is “perfect for drinking during food preparation or as a palate cleanser in between rich holiday dishes,” says Jones.Main meal: Cider (such as Top Knot River Cider, Hood River, Oregon). With funk, fruit and a dry nish, the North-west’s craft ciders pair brilliantly with vegetable dishes and starches, such as sweet potato casserole.Main meal: Oenobeers (such as Alesong Cabernet Sauvignon Terroir, Eugene, Oregon). For U.S. commer-cial breweries, up to 49 percent of a beer’s fermentable sugars can come from non-grain sources — you know, like grapes. In some ways oenobeers (also called vinocervisias) are beer-wine hybrids, but they are also some of the most exciting frontier brewing in the world of craft. “Sip this like you would a full-bodied red alongside your classic turkey dinner,” says Jones.Dessert: Porter (such as Block 15 Dark Matter Chocolate Porter, Corval-lis, Oregon). The roasted and cocoa notes of porters give them substance, yet they remain light enough on the palate to refresh after the big meal. “They’re fantastic as a stand-alone,” says Jones, “but are light-bodied enough to pair with a traditional pecan pie.”Mull it over Sure, there’s nothing like a cold beer. But for Mike Coplin, founder of Eugene’s 16 Tons specialty bottle shop and taphouse, the gray chill of a Northwest Thanksgiving can mean it’s time for a surprise: a heated beer. “My favorite all-time holiday recom-mendation is for mulled beer,” says Coplin. “This works magically well with Unibroue’s Quelque Chose Cherry Ale, which is intentionally bottled without carbonation. This beer — and indeed many fruit beers or strong ales — are fantastic when heated to 150 degrees. Sweeteners like honey and spices like a cinnamon stick are optional.”Special beers you’ll be thankful for Thanksgiving is the eminent feast of the American year and, for Coplin, that means it’s also the perfect time to bring out special beers. On one hand are tried-and-true special releases that anyone can look forward to: spiced beers (such as Stone Brewing’s Xocoveza), spirits barrel-aged beers (such as Fremont’s B-Bomb), or themed beers (such as Oakshire’s Big Black Jack Spiced Chocolate Pumpkin Porter.) “These are great beers,” says Co-plin, “and they certainly have earned their place at the table.” With so many amazing, bound-ary-pushing new beers arriving on the market every week though, Coplin points out that it’s easier than ever to go above and beyond for your Thanks-giving beer pairings. He suggests stocking up on one or two special beers, and keeping them tucked away until the big day. So your palate isn’t overwhelmed, Coplin also suggests picking up a few simple, easy-pairing, easy-drinking workhorse beers. “Head down to your local beer store a few days before your feast and pick out some freshly-canned IPA and pilsner-style beers to enjoy with your meal,” says Coplin. In addition to other brewers mentioned above, he suggests Culmination, Pfriem, Fort George, Baerlic, Breakside, Ale Apothecary and Upright Brewing. Of course, the beer steward at your local beer shop can also steer you to the right brew. “Thanksgiving is a perfect opportu-nity to go full-on decadent, but crisp and spritzy can help to cut a heavy dessert or cream-based dish,” says Jones. “Finding analogous avors is the simplest place to start, but don’t be afraid to experiment to create your own memorable experience.”CHEERS NORTHWESTBeerPHOTO BY RAWPIXEL FROM PIXABAY

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18 Cheers NW • November 2019 With a total of ve wineries now open in the Stafford region near West Linn, it’s easy to plan an intimate wine tasting afternoon at these unique family-owned tasting rooms. Twill Cellars (21775 S.W. Ribera Lane, West Linn) features a 2.7-acre vineyard planted half-and-half with pi-not noir and chardonnay. Owners Dar-rel and Molly Roby planted the grapes on their property in 2000. The couple also purchases syrah, pinot noir and chardonnay grapes for blends and for single-vineyard designates. “We focus on these three varietals,” said Molly. “We usually make about 350 cases off our own vineyard.” Although they have been producing wine since 2004, the Robys didn’t open a tasting room until 2012 when they converted Darrell’s shop into a cozy tasting space with a view of their vineyards. Winemaker Chris Dickson oversees both the estate grapes and the purchased fruit. Wine is produced in a shared facility at August Cellars where Dickson makes all the deci-sions about the wine production. Alex Fortson assists Chris with winemaking and in the vineyard, as well as work-ing in the tasting room and in sales. “Over the past few years, we’ve seen it get busier at Thanksgiving time,” said Molly. “We have enough wineries around here now to draw some crowds.” Twill will be open for Thanksgiving on Friday through Sunday from 1 to 5 p.m. “We’ll have a nice selection of wines for tasting and small snacks. Our rosé is always popular at holi-days,” said Molly. A basic tasting fee of $15 is waived with the purchase of two bottles. Oswego Hills Winery (off Stafford Road at 450 Rosemont Road) opened in 2003. Gleaming white buildings highlighted with process blue trim mark the picturesque estate, situated on 36-plus acres of rolling hills. Formerly a horse boarding facility, GIVING THANKS FOR WINEBY PATTY MAMULAEnjoy the holiday at one - or all - of these intimate Stafford wineries

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19November 2019 • Cheers NWthe estate’s numerous buildings have been restored by owner Jerry Mar-shall — including the house where he and his wife live and the house where one of his daughters and her family live. “The buildings were from the World War II era and in bad repair,” said Marshall. Directly behind the tasting room / production facility sits a sunlit event center, surrounded by windows overlooking the vineyard. “This is a family operation with our three daughters and their husbands and children,” said Marshall, a former American airlines pilot. The 20-acre vineyard was planted over a period of 20 years with pinot noir, pinot gris and Marechal Foch. A small 1.5-acre plot of sauvignon blanc was added a few years back. Marshall also buys grapes from Horse Heaven Hills and Rattlesnake Hills in Washington. “I like their fruit. The avor is so precise,” he said. Son-in-law Derek Lawrence, a pharma-cist at Emmanuel Hospital, makes all their wines. “We produce 16 different wines. Our variety has become our signature,” said Marshall. “We’re authentic winemakers and don’t recipe our wines,” he said. “The majority of our winemaking is by hand.” All the winery’s tanks — except for one from JV Northwest — came from the old Weinhard Brewery in downtown Portland. Today, Oswego Hills makes between 2,000 and 3,000 cases a year, de-pending on the grapes, selling most of it at the tasting room. When Marshall bought the property in 1996 he wasn’t sure what he want-ed to do with it, but his passion was building. Simultaneously, he began visiting wineries in the Willamette Valley to pass the time with his aging uncle. In the process, he met many Oregon wine pioneers. He determined that a winery on the cusp of an urban area could work. From the number of people visiting every weekend, it seems Marshall was right. For Thanksgiving, Oswego Hills will be open Friday through Sunday from noon to 5 p.m. Tasting options in-clude ve wines for $10 or ve wines and a glass for $15. Visitors can also CHEERS NORTHWESTWineAbove - The exterior of the Tumwater Barrel House tasting room on a rainy fall day.Left - A view of the vineyard at Campbell Lane Winery where all the grapes are planted north to south and the elevation at the top is 750 feet.

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20 Cheers NW • November 2019choose to taste all the wines for $25, with food and a $10 credit. Small bites will be available and charcuterie platters for purchase. Tumwater Vineyard and Barrel House Tasting Room (375 S.W. Barrel House Way, West Linn, just off Pete’s Mountain Road) is the newest of the Stafford wineries. Manager Pascale King said, “We ofcially opened in 2017. Now in our third year, we’re very happy with the way our business is growing.” Developers Gordon Root and Rick Waible originally planned to build 45 houses on the acreage, but encoun-tered land-use restrictions. Instead, they settled on six luxury homes overlooking a 45-acre vineyard. At this point, there are 23 planted acres with all pinot noir and one block of chardonnay. Tumwater offers several es-tate-grown wines — two chardonnays and the new white pinot noir, currently receiving great reviews. King said, “Our new white pinot is pressed right away and has a minimum amount of contact with the skins. After sitting in oak barrels for about eight months, it’s ltered and retains a light pinkish hue.” The winery produces ve additional pinots, some created with grapes from specic vineyards and labeled as such, others made from grapes grown in a distinctive Willamette Valley AVA. King said,” Eventually we’ll have all estate-grown wines here.” The 2018 pinots from the estate are “massive with super big fruit” and will be released in the spring. Tumwater’s very contemporary tast-ing room — with its plentiful outdoor seating and a large oor-to-ceiling replace — invites conversation and lingering. For Thanksgiving, the winery will be open Friday to Sunday from noon to 5:30 p.m. with music on Sunday. Tasting will include a ight of ve wines and a Riedel glass with the Tumwater logo for $20. Other November events include a cookie decorating class on November 21 and a gift show November 15 from 4 to 9 p.m., November 16 from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and November 17 from noon to 5:30 p.m. Campbell Lane Winery, (27411 Campbell Lane in West Linn) boasts the oldest vines in the Stafford area and the youngest tasting room. Leigh Campbell and his wife Ceille purchased the 100-acre property, with a signicant south-facing slope, in 1996. Leigh worked as a doctor and aspired to farming. He planted pinot gris vines on hand-cleared property, all initially hand-watered. Over the years the vineyard was expanded — recently pinot noir and chardonnay vines were added. After Leigh and his wife moved to Charbonneau, Leigh’s daughter Tracy Campbell Parks and her husband, Andy, moved into the family home in 2013. For years, the Campbell grapes had been sold to Adelsheim, CHEERS NORTHWESTWineCampbell Lane Winery offers three wines on its regular tasting menu—Pinot Gris, Rose Pinot Noir, and Pinot Noir.

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21November 2019 • Cheers NWbut the Parks decided to keep some and established Campbell Lane Winery. Their unique label features a die-cut area, exposing the Campbell Crest on the inside of the bottle. The winery bottles pinot gris, pinot noir and rosé. The 2018 pinot noir, made from estate grown grapes, will be released Thanksgiving weekend along with a pinot noir reserve that Leigh person-ally selected from seven barrels. It’s a blend of Pommard, Wadenswil, 667 and 777 clones. This will be the rst full year for the tasting room, which is located in the Campbell home and features a picturesque outdoor area with re pits and stunning view of Mt. Hood from the upper deck. For Thanksgiving, the tasting room will be open Friday through Sunday from noon to 5 p.m. Six ights for $15 will be offered. A craft class for making Christmas/ holiday cards will be offered every day. Pre-registration is required. On Campbell Lane Winery27411 SW Campbell LaneWest Linn, OR 97068503-479-8671www.Clwinery.comOpen Sunday noon to 5 p.m.Oswego Hills Vineyard450 Rosemont RoadWest Linn, OR 97068503-655-2599www.oswegohills.comOpen Saturday and Sunday noon to 5 (May to December)Open Sunday noon to 5 (January to May)Pete’s Mountain Vineyard and Winery28101 SW Petes Mountain RoadWest Linn, Or 97068503-656-2130www.petesmountainvineyard.comOpen Sunday 1 to 5 p.m. Tumwater Vineyard375 SW Barrel House WayWest Linn, OR 97068503-374-1981www.Tumwatervineyard.comOpen Sunday noon to 5 p.m.Twill Cellars21775 SW Ribera LaneWest Linn, OR 97068503-638-7323www.twillcellars.comOpen Saturday and Sunday 1 to 5 p.m.ARTICLE PHOTOS BY PATTY MAMULACHEERS NORTHWESTWineFriday, visitors can burn off some turkey calories with a vineyard walk at 11:30 a.m. or a barrel-rolling contest at 2 p.m. Samples of TMK Cream-ery Cheese from Canby and Pitch Dark Chocolate will be available with tastings. Saturday guests are encouraged to wear fan attire for the Oregon Civil War football game. Enjoy the game, cheering on your favorite team while enjoying hot soup and bread and tasting wine. Sunday activities will be more se-date with board games like cribbage and chess — or whatever you choose to bring — and popcorn to nibble on while tasting. Test your knowledge of wine with trivia at 2:30 p.m. Pete’s Mountain Vineyard and Winery (a mile further down at 28101 Pete’s Mountain Road) will be open on Friday after Thanksgiving from noon to 5 p.m., serving small bites to accompany tasting.WINERY INFORMATIONAlex Fortson at Twill Cellars Winery in West Linn wears many hats at the winery, including working in the tasting room and assisting with sales.

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22 Cheers NW • November 2019A drive through Oregon WineCountry started it all. Martin — heprefers the affectionate “Marty” —and his wife, Julie Doerschlag, weredriving through Oregon wine countryon a discovery trip several years agowhen Julie noticed a unique edice.She pointed to the then-unoccupiedMadsen Grain Elevator and toldMarty, “This looks like a project justwaiting for you.” One conversationand a handshake later, local winepatriarch Ken Wright signed overthe tower and the journey of Flâneurbegan. With a career spent inarchitectural design, Marty was theperfect man to restore the 125-year-old iconic center-of-town building.The painstaking restoration and thelaunch of a world-class winery hasbecome Marty’s second career.“During my rst moment tastingFlâneur wines in the cellar — evenbefore working here — I fell headover heels,” said Kellie Campbell,tasting room manager. “In theiryouth, the wines tasted outstand-ing. But the winemaker’s vision andpassion for the wines’ potential wasooring, and I could taste this ineach sip.” Kellie has the WSET winecertication pins to back up her ex-pertise — her insights are not aloneas the buzz swarming this freshyoung winery gets louder with eachpassing month. Featured in venera-ble publications like Wine Spectator,Wine Enthusiast, The WashingtonPost and several notable northwestperiodicals, Flâneur has becomean integral part of the WillametteValley wine industry in the six yearssince Marty and Julie purchased thelandmark property.After a nine-year stint at BeauxFreres, winemaker Grant Coulter hasproven an excellent t at Flâneur.Grant brings passion, skill and hisown fame to the winery — Grantearned the No. 3 spot on Wine Spec-tator’s 2016 list with his 2014 BeauxFreres Pinot Noir. Popular in theWillamette Valley, Flâneur subscribesto organic, sustainable and dry farm-FLÂNEUR WINERYBY VALERIE ESTELLE ROGERSPassionate artisans share the desire to slow down, observe the world, and create delicious wines.PHOTOS BY VALERIE ESTELLE ROGERS

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23November 2019 • Cheers NWing methods, producing wines from grapes nurtured by nature and not by manipulation. Fittingly, Grant is at home at Flâneur, exploring freedoms and continuing to hone his already impressive talent. Valuing local relationships and grateful for the community of Carlton’s warm embrace, Flâneur is giving back by supporting Yamhill Carlton Together Cares Cuvée for a Cause, beneting youth and fami-lies of the area. Select winemakers produce specially crafted 1.5-liter bottles specically for the purpose of raising funds for this local non-prot. Flâneur crafted 600 magnums which sell for 150.00 a bottle. As a result of this fundraiser, Yamhill Carlton To-gether Cares raises over $300,000 — an impressive feat for two small communities with a combined population under 3,500. (Yamhill is a neighboring town located less than four miles away.) In addition to the charity magnums, Flâneur offers four pinot noirs, two chardonnays and, newly released, bubbles from the winery’s 44 acres of vines. Currently, the wines are distributed in 15 states and can be shipped to most states — if you’re looking for quintessential Oregon crafted pinot noir with hints of earth, expressive aromas and dark fruit avors, look no further than Flâneur. You can sample the seductive tastes of Flâneur in two locations. After ve years of work to com-plete seismic upgrades, mandatory reinforcements and to meet code re-quirements, the 125-year-old Madsen Grain Elevator is ofcially open and ready for your visit. On October 17, 2019, the last traces of the tempo-rary location were transfered to the new space next door. The 110-foot-tall historic Madsen grain elevator — the beautiful new home of Flâneur — is located in the heart of charming downtown Carlton. It’s impossible to miss the landmark structure because it’s massive, the tallest building for miles around. Casual tastings for walk-ins are always available or you may reserve a classic or enhanced tasting, if you prefer. For those seeking a more intimate experience with a view, reserve a private tasting at the Blue Barn at the La Belle Promenade Vineyard. Oenophiles will love sipping wine in the restored 100-year-old barn perched in the picturesque Chehalem mountain range, just a 15-minute drive from Carlton. The barn — and as much of the new tasting room as possible — were refurbished using reclaimed wood from the renovations done to the granary itself. Even the cheese boards are cut of repurposed wood panels from the interior of the granary shaft. While visiting the new tasting room, don’t forget to look underfoot. On the patio, stamped stones from the streets of Burgundy, France, are scattered among terra cotta pavers. The secrets those tiles could tell and the stories being written now by the shoes treading over them... my what a tale! Speaking of stories, Flâneur boasts a fun connection to a famous celebrity but you can discover that when you visit. Just ask about the Bacon Bar. So, what is a âneur? According to one French denition, a âneur is a professional lounger. A âneur is one who enjoys life, slowing to see it, taking careful steps and sauntering as though walking a turtle. Because life should be enjoyed and savored, not corrupted by urgency, a âneur can be found on the Flâneur Wines label. Beautifully drawn by Julie, the use of the turtle theme is seen throughout the winery, inspiring guests to be mindful connoisseurs of life. “We consider ourselves to be âneurs at our core,” said Marty. “We’re passionate artisans joined together by the desire to slow down, observe the world and create deli-cious wines.” Flâneur Wines is open seven days a week from 11a.m. to 5 p.m. Visit a-neurwines.com for more information.CHEERS NORTHWESTWinePHOTOS BY VALERIE ESTELLE RODGERSABOVE: Stamped stones from Burgundy, France and terra cotta pavers.ABOVE LEFT: Russell Lichtenthal, Director of Hospitality & Sales, in the tasting room.

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26 Cheers NW • November 2019 What comes to mind when you read the word “tequila?” Is it a general bad taste in your mouth perpetuated by probably a hundred country songs? Is it a spring break situation back in college you’d rather forget? Maybe it’s that scene from The Sandlot where all of the kids are tossing their cookies on the Tilt-O-Whirl. Even if you don’t want to, think back to that unforgettable-in-a-bad-way spring break escapade. It’s very likely you were slamming shots of a (cheap) tequila that was a blend of 51 per-cent distilled agave and 49 percent mystery alcohol. This mixture is so infamously harsh, which is why it’s so routine to knock it back with a lick of salt and a squeeze of lime. In other words, my friend, it’s time to let those hard feelings go. Slowly but surely over the last decade, restaurants and bars have popped up with mile-long tequila menus and endless ight options. Liquor store shelves are now overow-ing with the robust spirit as far as the eye can see.What is it? Tequila is a distilled Mexican liquor made from the blue agave plant or agave tequilana, which is part of the amaryllis family. Blue agave can only be grown in tequila-approved regions of Mexico, specically the areas surrounding the city of Tequila, areas northwest of Guadalajara, and in the highlands of Jalisco. Its production is strictly regulated by the Tequila Reg-ulatory Council (CRT). While tequila can only be made from agave tequilana, its close relative, mezcal, comes from any of the other 250-plus species of agave. Huskier, smokier mezcal also traditionally has a worm oating at the bottom of a nished bottle. The worm is actually a moth larvae, and it rst made its way into bottles in 1950, when a mezcal maker saw it as a way to give his product a little more pizzazz.TE AMO, TEQUILAThe choices of tequila these days are endless as is my love for itBY HANNAH SUTTONPHOTO COURTESY OF KITTY KAHT

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27November 2019 • Cheers NWHow is it made? Blue agave plants take anywhere from seven to 10 years to grow. Once a plant is approved for harvest, it is dug up to reveal the piña (pineapple). The piñas are then taken to a distillery and loaded into an oven to roast. After roasting, they are juiced then special yeast is added to begin the fermenta-tion process. During fermentation, the yeast and the natural sugars of the plant are converted into alcohol.Why are there so many types? Tequila is categorized by how long it is aged.Where can I get it? As a Northwesterner, there’s no doubt you’re inundated with craft-beer-this and ne-wine-that. Although you love our local beverage industries, once in a while, you may be in the CHEERS NORTHWESTSpiritsmarket for some south-of-the-border specialties. Since 2012, The Northwest Agave Fest has been drawing over 100 tequila and mezcal brands together in Seattle for the largest tasting event in the Pacic Northwest. The festival cel-ebrates the agave spirit as a product distilled the same way for centuries, making it an integral piece of Mexican culture. To give you even more feel-good vibes, Agave Fest benets The Benevolent Guild of Seattle, which is committed to assisting children’s char-ities and support groups in the Puget Sound area. Festivities come around once a year, usually in September. Agave Cocina & Tequilas brings over 150 varieties, brands and exclusive batches of top-shelf tequila — including their own label — to the table. Sophisticated tequila connois-seurs and newcomers alike can enjoy an endless tequila selection alongside contemporary, handcrafted Mexican cuisine. With restaurants located in Seattle, West Seattle and Issaquah Highlands, Agave Cocina & Tequilas is the perfect destination for enjoying happy hour with friends, a lunch meet-ing, family-style dinner or late-night snack. HECHO, a rustic cantina located in the suburban district of Greenwood in Seattle, boasts colorful, contemporary Mexican-inspired Northwest cuisine. Over 80 tequilas are stocked, ready to enjoy in the lime juice margaritas and pair with handmade tortillas and salsas. Hecho means “made,” which is appropriate, as each food menu item is made on the premises with the highest quality local ingredients. The Matador loves helping its guests discover their perfect tequila. The Portland restaurant has curated Barrio Mexican Kitchen & Bar in Seattle

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28 Cheers NW • November 2019CHEERS NORTHWESTSpiritsAge/Characteristics Not aged, bottled immediately after distillation. Aged a minimum of 2 months, but less than 1 year in oak barrels. Aged a minimum of 1 year, but less than 3 years in oak barrels. Aged a minimum of 3 years in oak barrels. Unaged, but contains added caramel, fructose, glycer-in and/or wood avoring to resemble aged tequila. Aged up to 8 years in oak barrels. Best tasting, hard-est to nd, and most expensive. Type Blanco (white) Reposado (rested) Anejo (aged) Extra Anejo (extra aged) Oro (gold) Reserva (reserved)ExamplesEspolon Blanco, Patron Silver, Casamigos BlancoPartida Reposado, Patron Reposado, Casamigos Tequila ReposadoFortaleza Anejo, Don Julio 1942 Anejo, Crotalo AnejoTears of Llorona No. 3 Extra Anejo, Gran Patron Extra Anejo Piedra, 123 Diablito Organic Extra AnejoJose Cuervo Especial Gold, Arandas Tequila Oro, Sauza Tequila GoldJose Cuervo Reserva de la Familia, Milagro Select Barrel Reserve, Avion Reserva 44 Extra Anejo TequilaAGE IS MORE THAN JUST A NUMBER WHEN YOU’RE TALKING TEQUILAto pomegranate juice. Some bars and restaurants serve this as part of a “bandera,” made up of a shot of lime, a shot of blanco tequila and a sangrita — green, white and red to represent the colors of the Mexican ag. If you’re looking to stay especially true to tequila’s roots, enjoy it with sangrita (little blood). This is a non-al-coholic type of chaser that exhibits notes of citrus and chili, and can be made of a number of ingredients ranging from Worcestershire sauce a collection of over 150 spirits from all over Mexico, including their own Private Reserve Tequila. A visit to The Matador is an immersive experience into the craft, heart, soul and sense of adventure that lives inside every good bottle of tequila. Barrio Mexican Kitchen & Bar in Seattle houses over 100 tequilas, seven agave ights, an impressive margarita list and various unique agave cocktails. The vibrant menu takes on Mexican cuisine in a modern way, and emphasizes fresh, seasonal ingredients. Most of the ingredients are made on-site, from fresh salsa to handmade tortillas to smoked pork. On top of that, the cocktail and spirits menu has been recognized as one of the strongest in the Puget Sound region. How do I properly taste it? Sipping 100 percent agave tequila can give you twice as many identi-able avor proles as a glass of red wine. Of course, there’s nothing wrong with the classic lime-and-salt pairing, as that may enhance the avor for some tasters.Staying true to tequila's roots with a traditional sangrita.

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32 Cheers NW • November 2019 Andrew Hroza wasn’t looking for a job. “I was six months in to a much-an-ticipated sabbatical year, staging in my dream restaurants and in the middle of a sustainable gardening apprenticeship,” says the Le Cordon Bleu-trained chef. “Then I learned that Ninkasi was opening a restau-rant. I knew that meant something special.” In early 2020, Ninkasi Brewing is replacing its 700-square-foot tasting room with a 4,000-square-foot full restaurant. The Ninkasi Better Living Room will focus on locally-sourced “elegant rustic” food centered around Ninkasi’s year-round and pilot beers. A longtime fan of West Coast IPAs, Hroza recently joined the team as the BLR’s executive chef — and he has come not to open another brew pub or beer hall, but “a restau-rant for craft beer drinkers.” “With some very notable excep-tions, the brewpub scene is still dominated by some pretty formulaic food. That doesn’t make sense to me,” says Hroza. “Craft beer drink-ers are some of the most discerning consumers I know. They’ve evolved their palates to appreciate good beer. They know avor, they under-stand technique and they’re search-ing for excellence.” Hroza heads west from Chicago, where for a decade he served as Goose Island Brewing’s executive chef. Hroza was also behind 2014’s WarPigs, a collaboration project between Indiana’s Three Floyds Brewing and Mikkeller in Copen-hagen, Denmark. In addition to Warpigs receiving four-star ratings from Politikan Copenhagen, the sustainability-minded Hroza is known for innovating zero-waste kitchen programs, establishing whole animal programs at Slow Foods Chicago and reducing the carbon footprint for Mikkeller restaurants. “When I left Warpigs, I vowed that my next project would be something just as unique and with a partner that NINKASI RESTAURANT IS ABOUT THE BEER Discerning beer fans can enjoy a meal that respects the evolved tastes of the Ninkasi communityBY ANTHONY ST. CLAIRPHOTOS COURTESY OF ROB SYDOR

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33November 2019 • Cheers NWwasn’t afraid to create something really different,” says Hroza. “After I met with Jamie and Nikos and heard their vision, I was hooked. A bold and ambitious restaurant guided by the ethos of good living? Absolutely!” Along with re-imagining the kind of space where discerning beer fans enjoy a meal, Hroza has begun developing food that “respects the evolved tastes of our Ninkasi com-munity.” While Hroza has spent time in Port-land and Seattle, Eugene was new to him — but its reputation was not. “What I did know is what most people in my industry know: the Willamette Valley is one of the most exciting places for a chef to be right now,” says Hroza. “The agricultural diversity and abundance here is al-most unmatched. Imagine a culinary utopia where, within an hour’s radius, a chef can procure hearty, lustrous produce, almost any kind of mush-room, ancient grains being cultivated from extinction, award-winning pinot grapes and some of the world’s best seafood — that’s the Willamette.” As Hroza has gotten to know Eugene, he has seen rsthand, too, how much people in the area care about their food, where it comes from and who grows and makes it. “BLR is a restaurant that belongs to all of us,” says Hroza. “We’re creating a menu that comforts on an everyday level but that also bets a special occasion. Most importantly, I want to hear from Eugene, my new community, so the Better Living Room continues to evolve for all of us.” In the months leading up to the BLR’s opening, the public can get a taste for Hroza’s beer and food vision during pop-up dinners around CHEERS NORTHWEST Foodthe Eugene area. The rst will be held at Party Downtown, Eugene, on December 10. Future pop-ups will be announced at ninkasibrewing.com and on the brewery’s Facebook and Instagram pages. Each pop-up experience will be “completely different and a collaboration with that restaurant’s chef — part Better Living Room, part host restaurant.” “I have never lived in a place like Eugene. My wife and I have only ever lived in big cities, so this move was a real switch for us. But one month in and we’re converts!” says Hroza. “This is a strong community and one that people clearly genuinely care about. Oregon native James Beard called food ‘our common ground,’ and I hope Better Living Room can be just that for the people of Eugene: a common ground for better living by way of great beer and exciting food.” Ninkasi Better Living Room opens in early 2020 on the ground oor of the Ninkasi Admin Building at 155 Blair Blvd. in Eugene, Oregon.ninkasibrewing.comAbove - Chef Andrew Hroza Left - Ninkasi building where Better Living Room will be located

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34 Cheers NW • November 2019 In a recent conversation with a friend, I was asked to name the most important little-known detail of haute cuisine. In other words, what is the single biggest misconception the average person holds when it comes to ne dining? I’ve written many pieces on the intri-cacies of sophisticated dining and the delights found in notable restaurants but I’d never been asked to narrow down common misunderstandings to one more important than the rest. Immediately, I scoffed at the question — I could never single out one fallacy. An instant later, it hit me. Yes! There is one big misconception looming over the rest. And as big as it is, it con-cerns something fairly small: portion sizes. Over and over, I’ve heard people joke about the portion sizes found in elegant eateries. I’ve seen posts on social media where someone out for a celebratory dinner shoots a photo of a classically-plated entrée, mocking the graceful empty plate space on Instagram or Facebook before he’s — yes, it’s almost always a male — even tasted his main course. Now, let me be clear: I am a big guy with big tastes and I like big portions — I like to eat so much I’ve gotten fat. Like most people, I want good value for my money. At a chain restau-rant like Claim Jumper, Applebee’s or Outback, many customers are disappointed if their plates aren’t full, even if they weren’t planning on eating everything. I sometimes nd myself unhappy if portions aren’t what I was anticipating, too. But my expectations change dra-matically if I’m at an exclusive French restaurant. So let this big guy with a big appetite be equally clear on a second point: in the hundreds of times I’ve eaten in rened restaurants with a lot of empty plate space around the main course, I have never left hungry. Not even once. “Huh?” you might ask. “You’re fat, you like to eat, you like a lot of food and yet you don’t mind a tiny entrée at a fancy restaurant? You don’t feel cheated when your main course is laughably small?” Yes, that’s exactly right. And here’s why you should maybe change your thinking when you decide to do a little ne dining. Let’s think in terms of courses for a moment. At a common chain restau-rant or diner, Americans have become accustomed to a standard three-course meal but we think of it in terms of one course: that plate with your entrée. We may enjoy a salad, soup or appetizer before and we might choose a dessert afterwards but most of our attention is focused on that one big plate. Because of this thinking, that main plate has evolved to become an always-full one. Those optional pre- and post-entrée plates may or may THE BIG QUESTION ABOUT SMALL PORTIONSWhy fine dining gets a bad rap when it comes to portion sizesBY MATTHEW MEADOR

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35November 2019 • Cheers NWLAST CALL WITHMattnot be ordered so ultimately, most of our focus falls on the one main course. And if it’s not substantial, we’re disappointed. American dining has essentially become a one-course affair with perhaps one or two add-ons we don’t really consider. In a ne French restaurant, we’ll nd things markedly different. Our meal will likely be built around at least a ve-course structure so portions will necessarily be smaller. Maybe even more importantly, the leisurely way we’ll meander from course to course allows generous time to enjoy our food — and we’ll almost certainly feel satised sooner. We’ll start with an apéritif, an alcohol beverage which will gently stimulate our appetite. We might choose a light white wine, maybe champagne or even a dry martini. This beverage relaxes us, gets us expectant and prepares our palate for the delights to come. Next, a charcuterie board will be delivered — sliced cured meats, ril-lettes or pâté, canapé or crostini (like a hard, toasted baguette to enjoy, topped), tiny pickles, mustard, maybe even some nuts or olives. Charcuterie boards take several forms so you may nd a different theme, created to complement your next courses. Soup or possibly a salad will follow. Perhaps you’ll instead choose a small treat like escargots or vegetable tarts. (See sidebar: I encourage you to ask questions and listen to the recom-mendations of your server and your sommelier. You’re enjoying nuanced cuisine, prepared by a skilled kitchen, using prized ingredients — the people serving you will be familiar with your choices and can recommend options to perfectly pair. At houses like this, the staff has sampled the menu and tasted the wine so they can suggest from both skill and experience.) A little more wine is next, then comes the plate inspiring this column. As in any eatery, your entrée is the high point of the meal, but here the focus will be on quality, not quantity. Remember, you’re enjoying numer-ous courses so your main dish will naturally be considerably smaller than an overloaded plate at a chain restaurant. A perennial French favorite for me is cont de canard, or bluntly, duck cooked in its own fat. It will be served with sauce and is often accom-panied by a simple potato. Once you’ve polished off your laugh-ably small entrée, you’ve got plenty of room for dessert, right? (That was sarcasm, in case you missed it — by this time, you’re going to feel much more sated than you imagined.) But something light like a crème brûlée or a crème caramel might be perfect. Of course, I usually follow it up with a di-gestif — ordinarily I prefer some form of brandy — and possibly a coffee while I’m awaiting my dessert. So let’s review. A pre-dinner cocktail, one appetizer, another appetizer, a main dish, dessert and a post-dinner brandy and a coffee. That’s a lot of food. By the time my entrée is placed in front of me, I’m not all that con-cerned about its size. Like I declared earlier, I have never nished dinner at a ne French restau-rant — yes, the ones with all the empty plate space around the entrée — and departed with my belly less than full. By the time I’m done, I’m reecting on the magnicence of my dinner and marveling at my satisfac-tion with life. That’s what an excellent French meal will inspire. Like me — a fat guy with a big appetite — you’ll have forgotten all about portion sizes.UNFAMILIAR WITH FRENCH DINING? Although ne dining has a reputation for stufness, things have relaxed in recent years. And in the laid-back Pacic Northwest, French dining is marked by our characteristic easy-going attitude and our afnity for using local ingredients to elevate even a classic discipline like la cuisine française. Don’t worry if you don’t speak French or you’re unsure about a particular dish — you’re not alone. Your server won’t hold it against you. After all, restaurant staff had to learn it all, too, and they’ll be happy to help you. Common sense and the good manners you already use on special occasions will go a long way. If you’re offered sorbet or another op-tion for cleansing your palate between courses, take it — there’s a reason it’s being suggested. A refreshed palate is primed to enjoy the subtleties of the next dish. Don’t be ashamed to ask about wine — most people are only nominally fa-miliar with a properly curated wine list. Even if you’re uent in wine, the staff will likely have tting suggestions not immediately obvious. A sommelier is put to better use making recommenda-tions, offering explanations or answer-ing questions than simply pouring. It’s not a bad idea to explore any restaurant’s website if you haven’t yet visited in person. You’ll be able to view the menu and learn details like price and dress code, if there is one. Altogether, French cuisine is all about celebrating life — and it’s way too delicious to avoid just because you’re worried about not knowing everything or about violating some rule. Give it a chance. Odds are, you’ll nd a lot less reason for worry than you think.

Cheers Northwest November 2019

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