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Michael StrachanA Bloomsbury Walk

A Bloomsbury Walk

Copyright © heritagewalks.london 2014 75 West Street, Harrow on the Hill, London HA1 3EL info@walkingthepast.co.uk First published in the UK in 2016 Updated and republished in the UK in 2018 Text and images copyright © Michael Strachan Michael Strachan has asserted his rights to be identified as the author of this work in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, by photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission in writing from the publisher. (The cover illustration shows the British Museum atrium.

INTRODUCTION Bloomsbury was developed by the wealthy Russell fam-ily in the 17th and 18th centuries into a fashionable res-idential area. It is notable for its formal garden squares, literary connections with the Bloomsbury Group, and numerous hospitals and academic institutions centred on London University and the British Museum. !"The British Museum has some of the largest and most comprehensive archaeology collections in the world illus-trating and documenting the story of human culture from its beginning to the present. The Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood was founded in John Millais's parents' house on Gower Street, London in 1848. At the initial meeting, John Everett Millais, Dante Gabriel Rossetti, and William Holman Hunt were present. This informal group of young artists dared to challenge the established art conventions of the time. The name Pre-Raphaelite shows the Brotherhood's admiration for a style of art before Raphael and the 'High Renaissance’. Bloomsbury, as an area, was a Victorian creation. It quickly established itself as the home of innovative and daring thinkers in science and the arts, known as the Bloomsbury Group. London UniversityUniversity College HospitalThe British Museum1

'Eminent Victorians' by Lytton Strachey, a member of this Group, was first published in 1918. It caused a literary sensation because of the irreverence and wit Strachey brought to bear on three men and a woman who had been regarded as heroic Victorians. They were Cardinal Manning, Florence Nightingale, Thomas Arnold and General Gordon.The book made Strachey's name and placed him firmly in the top rank of modern biographers. Bloomsbury is still a vibrant area filled every day with people drawn to its cultural and scientific institutions. Its close proximity to the West End - Oxford Street, Totten-ham Court Road and Charing Cross Road - makes it a tourist favourite."To hear this Introduction please click this icon To find out more about ‘What3Words’ please click this information icon 2

Planning Your Walk 1. If possible, walk with a friend. 2. Tell som eo ne wh ere yo u are go in g. 3. Take care w he n w al kin g at ni gh t. 4. Wear sensible clothes and footwear. 5. Always take a bottle of water to avoid de-hydration. 6. Don't try to do too much in one visit. 7. Check the opening times of all Museums and Galleries online. 8. Take you r ca mer a or ca mer a ph one w ith b att er ie s f ul ly ch arged. 9. If you are printing out this booklet do staple the!pages!together!. 10. Don’t forget to download your free Quiz and Plaque scoresheets by using the URL links on the next page… Start from Tottenham Court Road station. (Central & Northern lines). End at Euston Square Underground station. (Metropolitan line). Use the Transport for London (TFL) planner to plan your journey. 5k3 miles2.5 hrs3

To make your walk more interesting… …we have created an on-line, interactive map which you can find by clicking the link below, or by scanning the green QR code opposite. This will only work if you are reading this guide on a smart device like an iPad: Plot-a-Route map We have also added some fun challenges - the first is a picture quiz. So you need to look out for interesting ob-jects such as ‘street furniture’, statues and architectural features shown in the I-Spy Challenge scoresheet. Click the link below, or scan the pink QR code opposite, to access a download for this scoresheet. It can then be printed or saved: I-Spy Challenge The second challenge is to ‘bag’ all the plaques along this walk. These are listed on a ‘Pastwalkers’ scoresheet along with their ‘what3words’ loca-tions. (Click the information icon op-posite for more about how ‘What3 Words’ works). The plaque scores are based on age and quality rather than the importance of the person or event commemorated. Download by clicking on the link below, or by scanning the blue QR code opposite: Plaque Challenge Tick them off when you find them4

A Walk in BloomsburyExit from the new Tottenham Court Road station and cross Oxford Street into Tottenham Court Road…. Cross over Tottenham Court Road to Great Russell Street and turn right into it… There is a connection with Charles Dickens nearby on the corner of Willoughby Street (14 Great Russell Street) where you will see a private plaque commemorating an episode in ‘Sketches by Boz’ – ‘The Bloomsbury Christen-ing’. In it the character of Charles Kitterbell is described as ‘one of the most credulous and matter-of-fact little personages that ever took to himself a wife, and for himself a house in Great Russell-street, Bedford-square.’ At number 106 you’ll see a plaque honouring a unique father and son. Augustus Charles Pugin was an artist, architectural draughtsman, and writer on medieval architecture. He was born in Paris but spent most of his life in England. His son, Augustus Welby Pugin, was also an architect, designer, artist and critic, famous for his pioneering role in the Gothic Revival style exemplified in the interior design of the Palace of Westminster and its iconic clock tower, later renamed the Elizabeth Tower, which houses the bell known as Big Ben. He went on to design many churches in the same style. Augustus Welby Pugin‘What3Words’ QR5

Further along the road stands a large modern building that is the headquarters of the TUC - the Trades Union Congress which represents the majority of Unions in the United Kingdom. Today it is headed by Paul Nowak and continues the struggle for fairness and equality at work and in the home. Number 100 was the home of Topham Beauclerk the Georgian dandy and wit, and his wife Lady Diana Beauc-lerk. The style shows that, as in the case of the previous plaque to the Pugins, this was originally erected by the Duke of Bedford in the nineteenth century. Lady Diana was a highly gifted artist who was able to use her scandalous reputation as an aristocratic, adulterous woman to further her career as a painter and designer. She painted portraits, illustrated plays and books, p r o v i d e d designs for Wedgwood's i n n o v a t i v e pottery, and d e c o r a t e d roo ms wi th murals. Championed by her close friend Horace Walpole, she established herself as an admired artist at a time when wo-men struggled to forge careers in the arts. Continue along Great Russell Street over Blooms bury Street… Topham BeauclercLady Diana Beauclerc6

On your left at 91 Great Russell Street is the former home of George du Maurier, the artist and writer, known for his cartoons in Punch and also for his novel Trilby. He was the father of actor Gerald du Maurier. His gothic horror novel Trilby, published in 1894 became such a sensation that the city of Trilby in Florida, was named after its heroine, the young Irish model Trilby O'-Ferrall. The soft felt hat with an indented crown worn in the London dramatisation is still known as a trilby. The plot inspired Gaston Leroux's 1910 novel Phantom of the Opera and the musical version by An-drew Lloyd Webber. Walk further along Great Russell Street with the British Museum on your left… The British Museum began in 1753 with an act of Parliament accepting the generous bequest of the physician, naturalist and collector, Sir Hans Sloane (1660–1753). Sloane had collected more than 71,000 objects which he wanted to be preserved intact after his death. So he bequeathed the whole collection to King George II for the nation in return for a payment of £20,000 to his heirs. (See also below). Look across Great Russell Street to the shop front at number 46… Randolph CaldecottGeorge du Maurier7

Here you will see a plaque honouring Randolph Caldecott, the artist and book illustrator. The illustration shown right is from "The House that Jack Built", con-tained in ‘The complete collection of pic-tures & songs’, published by Routledge in 1887. Continue on Great Russell Street to enter Bury Place on your right… Bertrand Russell, the philosopher and peace campaigner, lived in Russell Chambers on your left where you can see his plaque. In a momentous life he was an outstanding logician and philo-sopher who supported world peace and nuclear disarmament. He went to prison for his pacifism during World War I. In World War 2 he concluded that the war against Adolf Hitler's Nazi Germany was a necessary "lesser of two evils" and also criticised Stalinist totalitari-anism. He later condemned the involve-ment of the United States in the Vietnam War and was an outspoken proponent of nuclear disarmament. In 1950, Russell was awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature "in recognition of his “var-ied and significant writings championing humanitarian ideals and freedom of thought”. Walk back to Great Russell Street and turn right… Bertrand Russell8

On the corner of Montague Street at number 77 you will see a blue plaque honouring the vic-torian architect Thomas Henry Wyatt. He had a prolific and distinguished career, be-ing elected President of the Royal Institute of British Architects 1870–73 and was awarded its Royal Gold Medal for Archi-tecture in 1873. Continue along Great Russel Street and turn right into Bloomsbury Square… Divert briefly into Bloomsbury Square where you’ll find a plaque at number 10 commemorating the dermatologist Dr Robert Willan… Willan was an English physician and the founder of der-matology as a medical specialty. He was elected a Fellow of the Royal Society in 1809. Return to Great Russell Street and turn right as it becomes Bloomsbury Place… At number 4 the physician and benefact-or of the British Museum, Sir Hans Sloane lived. Sloane had married Elizabeth Langley Rose, the widow of Fulke Rose of Jamaica, and daughter of Alderman John Langley, a wealthy heiress of sugar planta-tions in Jamaica worked by slaves. Income from Sloane's career as a physician and his Dr Robert WillanThomas Henry Wyatt9

London property investments, coupled with Elizabeth's inheritance, enabled Sloane to build his substantial col-lection of natural history artefacts men-tioned above. You are now close to the junction with Southampton Row. Turn left and across the road you will see a victorian hotel building at 126 Southampton Row - the Bloomsbury Park Hotel… There is a ‘Conductor Laureate’ plaque here honouring Sir John Barbirolli the famous conductor and!cellist. Born in Lon-don of Italian and French parentage, Bar-birolli grew up in a family of professional musicians. After starting out as a cellist, he was given the chance to conduct, from 1926 with the British Na-tional Opera Company, and then with Covent Garden's touring company. His name is always associated with the!Hallé Orchestra!in Manchester, which he helped save from dissolution in 1943 and conducted for the rest of his life. Walk up Southampton Row, turning left into Russell Square… Russell Square! is a large! garden square!named after the!Dukes of Bedford. The gardens are so important that they have been Grade II-listed on the! Register of Historic Parks and Gardens. Sir Hans SloaneSir John Barbirolli10

At the corner turn right and then left into Montague Place at the back of the British Museum… At the end of Montague Place you will reach Bed- ford Square where there are several plaques… First turn left and you will see… …an imposing building at 6 Bedford Square that was the home of Lord Eldon - a former barrister and politician who be-came Lord Chancellor of Great Britain. El-don notoriously accused the political re-former Thomas Hardy of attempting to establish “…representative government, the direct opposite of the government which is established here" - showing his reactionary, right-wing views. He vehe-mently opposed the Great Reform Act, believing in an unchanging Britain anchored in the values of 1688. He epi-tomised what Palmerston called "the stu-pid old Tory party". Cross over into Bedford Square… At number 49 there is a plaque honouring Ram Mohun Roy, Indian scholar and re-former who lived here. In the nineteenth century He was very influential in the fields of Indian politics, public administration, education and religion. He was known for his efforts to abolish the practices of sati and child marriage. Lord EldonRam Mohun Roy11

At 48 Bedford Square Elizabeth Jesser Reid, nick-named ‘Hurricane’ for her boundless energy, is re-membered as a social reformer, anti-slavery activist, phil-anthropist and founder of Bedford College in London in 1849 as the first higher education college for women in the United Kingdom. In 1900 it became a constituent part of the Uni-versity of London. At 42 Bedford Square there is a plaque honouring William Butterfield who was a Gothic Revival architect and was associ-ated with the Oxford Movement (or Trac-tarian Movement). He is noted for his use of polychromy. 41 Bedford Square was the home of Sir Anthony Hope-Hawkins, bet-ter known as Anthony Hope the novel-ist and playwright, mainly remembered for two adventure novels: The Prisoner of Zenda (1894) and its sequel Rupert of Hentzau (1898). Both were set in the fic-tional country of Ruritania and spawning the genre known as Ruritanian romance. ‘Zenda’ inspired many adaptations, most notably the lavish 1 9 3 7 H o l l y w o o d movie of the same name. The film starred Ronald Colman, Madeleine Carroll and Douglas Fairbanks Jr., with a supporting cast including C. Aubrey Smith, Elizabeth Jesser ReidAnthony HopeWilliam Butterfield12

Raymond Massey, Mary Astor and David Niven. It was directed by John Cromwell, with a musical score by Alfred Newman. Cross over to the top of the square… At 35 Bedford Square there are two plaques, which is an unusual combina-tion. The first one commemorates Thomas Hodgkin, Physician, Re-former and Philanthropist, who lived here. A pioneer in prevent-ive medicine, he is now best known for the first account of Hodgkin's disease in 1832. The second honours Thomas Wakley, reformer and founder of the medical journal 'The Lancet', who also lived here. Wakley campaigned against flogging as a punishment for many years and also fought against the adulteration of foodstuffs. Walk round and into the last side of the Square…. 22 Bedford Square was the home of Sir Johnston Forbes-Robertson – an English actor and theatre manager. He was con-sidered the finest Hamlet of the Victorian era and one of the finest actors of his time, despite his underlying dislike of the job and his lifelong belief that he was temperamentally unsuited to act-ing. Thomas Wakley & Thomas HodgkinSir Johnston Forbes-Robertson13

Sir Harry Ricardo, Mechanical Engineer, was born at 13 Bedford Square and became one of the foremost engine designers and researchers in the devel-opment of the internal combustion en-gine. He also improved the engines that were used in the first tanks, oversaw the research into the physics of internal com-bustion that led to the that led to the use of octane ratings. Walk to the junction with Gower Street and cross over to the corner building… There is an early style plaque here com-memorating the ‘natural philosopher’ Henry Cavendish, an English natural philosopher, scientist, and an important experimental and theoretical chemist and physicist. He is famed for his dis-covery of hydrogen or what he called "inflammable air”. Walk up Gower Street away from Bed-ford Square… The first plaque you will encounter at 2 Gower Street celebrates Dame Millicent Fawcett. A pioneer of womens’ voting rights, she was a political leader, activist and writer. A feminist icon, she is primarily known for her work as a campaigner for women's suffrage and her statue now stands in Parliament Square - the first woman to join the hitherto exclusively male group here. Sir Harry RicardoDame Millicent Fawcett14

7 Gower Street was the house where the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood of young, rebellious artists was founded in 1848. This was a notorious group of English painters, po-ets, and art critics, founded in 1848 by William Holman Hunt, John Everett Millais and Dante Gabriel Rossetti. The three founders were joined by William Michael Ros-setti, James Collinson, Frederic George Stephens and Thomas Woolner to form the seven-member “brother-hood". Today it’s hard to credit the harsh contemporary reaction to a Pre-Raphaelite painting like the one shown below - Christ in the House of His Parents, 1849-50, oil on canvas by Sir John Everett Millais. However, its realistic portrayal of the Holy Family scandalised Victorian society! At 10 Gower Street lived Lady Ottoline Morrell, society hostess and patron of the arts. She was an English aristo-crat and society hostess. Her patronage was influential in 15

artistic and intellectual circles, where she befriended writers including Aldous Hux-ley, Siegfried Sassoon, T. S. Eliot and D. H. Lawrence, and artists including Mark Gertler, Dora Carrington and Gilbert Spencer. At number 14 James Robinson, a pioneer of anaesthesia and dentistry lived and worked. He was zealous, impetuous, en-thusiastic and eminent in his pro-fession and published the world’s first anaesthetic text-book: ‘A Treatise on the Inhala-tion of the Vapour of Ether’ in 1847.! Little further on, at number 11, there is a plaque erected to the memory of Robert Aickman… Aickman was an English writer and conser-vationist who co-founded the Inland Wa-terways Association, a group which has preserved and restored England's inland canal system. As a writer, he is best known for his supernatural fiction, which he de-scribed as "strange stories". Continue along Gower Street before turning right into Keppel Street – London University Senate building lies ahead… This imposing Art Deco building was constructed between 1932 and 1937 as the first phase of a largely uncompleted scheme designed for the university by Lady Ottoline Morrell16

Charles Holden. It has 19 floors and is 210 feet (64!m) high. In choosing the architect, William Beveridge, the vice-chancellor at the time, was influenced by the success of Holden's recently completed 55 Broadway, de-signed as the headquarters for the London Electric Railway and then the tallest office building in London. During the Second World War, the build-ing's use by the Ministry of Information inspired Graham Greene's novel The Min-istry of Fear (1943) and its film adaptation Ministry of Fear by Fritz Lang (1944) which was set in Bloomsbury. This location also features a plaque hon-ouring the abolitionist and author Mary Prince, born in Bermuda to an enslaved family of African descent. Subsequent to her escape, when she was living in Lon-don, she wrote The History of Mary Prince (1831), which was the first account of the life of a black woman to be published in the United Kingdom. Return to Malet Street and turn right into Torrington Square… …and walk through to Thornhaugh Street… …before turning right down to Russell Square… 17

In the corner of Russell Square at the junction with Thornhaugh Street there is a plaque on the Faber build-ing where T. S. Eliot worked for Faber and Faber the publishers. Eliot was one of the twentieth century's major poets but was criticised for his well-known anti-semitic views. Born in St. Louis, Missouri, in the United States, to a prominent Boston Brahmin family, he moved to England in 1914 at the age of 25, settling, working, and marrying there. He became a British subject in 1927 and for many years was a churchwarden at St Stephen’s Gloucester Road where there is a memorial to his service. The story goes that when Lilian Lindsey (Murray) applied to the National Dental Hospital in 1892, she was not al-lowed to enter the building, in case her presence distracted the male students, and was interviewed on the pavement as the Dean leaned out of a window. She failed to gain admission to this school! Instead she was accepted at the more en-lightened Edinburgh Dental Hospital and School and graduated with honours in 1895, becoming the first qualified British female dentist. In 1920 the Lindsays moved to a flat at 23 Russell Square – their home for 15 years – where a blue plaque commemorates her early struggle and her highly successful and influential career. T. S Eliot18Lilian Lindsay

Across the road, on the edge of Russell Square Gardens you will see one of London’s unique Taxi Shelters. This fine example has two plaques commemorating its building in 1901 by the splendidly-named Sir Squire Bancroft. It was restored in 1987 by a group that included Ms Brenda Bancroft. Back across this road there is a plaque at 21 Russell Square honouring Samuel Romilly, the law reformer and prominent supporter of the anti-slavery campaign lead by William Wilberforce. During the parliamentary debate on the Slave Trade Bill, Romilly paid tribute to Wilberforce, saying that his lead-ership had "preserved so many millions of his fellow creatures.” As he concluded his remarks, Romilly was greeted with a standing ovation by other Members of Parliament, a very rare reaction in the House of Commons. Wilberforce himself sat with his head in his hands, tears streaming down his face. It was in this house that Romilly commit-ted suicide. On 29 October 1818 Lady Romilly had died in the Isle of Wight. A few days later, on 2 November 1818, Romilly cut his throat, and died in a few minutes. His nephew Peter Mark Roget attended him in his final moments. His last words were written: My dear, I wish ... presumably something regarding his late wife. Samuel Romilly19Sir Squire Bancroft

Walk around the corner of Russell Square before turning left into Bedford Way… Continue along Bedford Way to Tavistock Square Gardens and turn left, crossing over into Gordon Square… At 51 Gordon Square Lytton Strachey lived and there is a plaque commemorat-ing him. A founding member of the Bloomsbury Group and author of Emin-ent Victorians, he is best known for es-tablishing a new form of biography in which psychological insight and sym-pathy are combined with irreverence and wit. His biography Queen Victoria (1921) was awarded the James Tait Black Memorial Prize. At 50 Gordon Square there is a Camden Council plaque commemorating the loosely associated group of artists and writers who lived nearby in the first half of the 20th century and became known as the Bloomsbury Group. They were extremely influen-tial in literary affairs and of-ten led unusual and very un-conventional lives. Continue on to 46 Gordon Square… The famous economist John Maynard Keynes lived here (see portrait opposite). A British economist, his ideas Lytton Strachey20Left to right: Lady Ottoline Morrell,, Maria Nys (neither members of Bloomsbury), Lytton Strachey,,Duncan Grant, and Vanessa Bell

fundamentally influenced the theory and practice of macroeconomics. He also helped to change the economic policies of governments. He was one of the most influential economists of the 20th century and his influence continued into the twenty-first century. His greatest work – 'The General Theory of Employment, Interest and Money', was published in 1936. By the late 1930s, lead-ing Western economies had begun adopt-ing Keynes's policy recommendations. Al-most all capitalist governments had done so by the end of the two decades following Keynes's death in 1946. Continue around Gordon Square and turn right into Taviton Street… Hugh Price Hughes the Methodist preacher lived at 8 Taviton Street. Re-cognised as one of the greatest orators of his era, Hughes also founded and ed-ited an influential newspaper, the Me-thodist Times in 1885. His editorials helped convince his fellow Methodists to break their longstanding support for the Conservatives and support the more moralistic Liberal Party. Walk up this street to number 4… John Maynard KeynesHugh Price Hughes21

There is a recent blue plaque here in hon-our of one of the Special Operation Exec-utive’s (SOE) agents Noor Inayat Khan (1914-1944). During World War 2 she was dropped into France with the codename ‘Madeleine’ and managed to survive for a short while when her network was penet-rated and broken up. Eventually she was captured and tortured before being trans-ferred to a concentration camp where she was brutally executed at Dachau. She was awarded the Croix de Guerre with Gold Star on 16 January 1946 and, on 5 April 1949, the George Cross – the highest award bestowed by the British government for non-oper-ational gallantry or gallantry not in the presence of an enemy! Walk back down Taviton Street turning right into Endsleigh Place and left again down the other side of Gordon Square… Robert T Herford was a Unitarian Minister, Scholar, and Interpreter of Judaism, lived and worked at 14 Gordon Square. (There is very little further information about this man and no pictures or photographs could be found on-line). At the southern end of Gordon Square where the Grade 1 listed University Church stands, cross over the road and bear left slightly to enter Torrington Square… Noor Inayat Khan 22

Christina Rosetti, the poet lived and died at 30 Torring-ton Square. She wrote a variety of romantic, devotional, and children's poems. She was also the author of the words of two Christmas carols well known and loved in the British Isles: "In the Bleak Midwinter", later set to music by Gustav Holst and by Harold Darke, and "Love Came Down at Christmas", also set by Harold Darke and other composers. Walk back towards the University Church and turn left along Byng Place and Torrington Place to re- turn to Gower Street… At the corner stands the magnificent building that used to be Dillons bookstore. Una Dillon started her original bookshop nearby in 1936 and drove the business forward delivering books by bike within her own target of eight hours. Her business thrived and her customers, and friends, included C. Day Lewis, the poet John Betjeman and other biblio-philes. She bought and developed the site of the building you now see in 1956. As you turn right into Gower Street look across the road and at number 91 where you will see the house where George Dance, the younger lived and died… Dance was an English architect who came from a family of architects, artists and dramatists. He was considered to be Christina RosettiGeorge Dance The younger23

an outstanding architect of his time but few of his build-ings remain. A little further up Gower Street is a plaque on the University building which is the site of the house where Charles Darwin lived. He is best known for his contributions to the science of evolution. ‘He established that all species of life have descended over time from common ancestors and, in a joint publication with Alfred Russel Wallace, introduced his sci-entific theory that evolution resulted from a process that he called natural selection, in which the struggle for existence has a similar effect to the artificial selection in-volved in selective breeding'. Darwin published his theory of evolution with compelling evidence in his 1859 book On the Origin of Species, overcom-ing scientific rejection of earlier concepts of transmutation of species. Continue along Gower Street to reach number 129… The blue plaque here commemorates Sir Victor Horsley who helped to change standard neurosurgery, and pioneered many neurological procedures and prac-tices. Charles Darwin24Victor Horsley

A tireless scientist and pathologist, he was noted for his kindness and humility, which endeared him to patients, colleagues, and students. Although born into wealth, he was dedicated to improving the lot of the common man and supported the suffrage of women, medical reform, and free health care for the working class. Knighted in 1902 for his many contributions to medicine, Sir Victor met an untimely death during World War I from heat stroke at the age of 59. Continue up Gower Street where you will pass the cruciform building of University College Hospital on your left… Before the hospital opened, only Oxford and Cambridge uni-versities offered medical degrees, and so relatively few doctors ac-tually had degrees. This hospital was founded as the North London Hospital in 1834 in order to provide clinical train-ing for the "medical classes" of the university, following a refusal by the governors of the Middlesex Hospital to allow students access to that hos-pital's wards. On your right is the classical facade of University Col-lege itself (shown in the print below)… Founded in 1826 this institution is consistently ranked as one of the best in the world for the quality of both its re-search and its teaching. 25

Continue to the end of Gower Street until you reach Euston Square station where this walk ends. The London University!as drawn by!Thomas Hosmer Shepherd!and published in 1827–1828 (now the!UCL Main Building) 26

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