Return to flip book view
This document provides details on how to use the Creality CR-10 3D printer in the ABTech Innovation Lab. The goal of this document is to help the reader understand how to load a model onto the printer and print it successfully. The goal is not to teach how to create 3D models or to get into the intricate details of printer configuration and tuning. We'll assume you have a 3D model already and we are going to assume most default settings are adequate for your model. If you need more technical assistance, contact the ABTech Innovation Lab with your questions. We'll do our best to help!
3D printing can be simplified into the following process:
Continue reading this document to learn how to slice and print a model you have created or downloaded using the Creality CR-10 3D printer!
A little about the Creality CR-10 printer: This is an older printer, so it prints slower than newer printers and it requires a little more monitoring. However, this printer can do something most can't... it can print large models. It can print up to 300mm x 300mm x 400mm, so about 12" x 12" x 16". Most printers have a significantly smaller print volume.
If you need to print something smaller than 10" x 10" x 10", use the Bambu Lab P1S 3D printer. It is much faster and easier to setup and monitor than the Creality CR-10 3D printer. Otherwise, use the Creality CR-10 printer. Click here to view the instructions for the Bambu P1S.
Creality CR-10
Slicing the model requires first downloading and installing the slicing software. For the purposes of these instructions, Ultimaker Cura has already been downloaded and installed on the lab computers.
The two primary steps to slicing your 3D model are:
Configure the printer in the slicing software (Ultimaker Cura)Set the slicer settings (infill, supports, temperature, speed, etc.)Slice the model and save the gcode file Slicing your 3D ModelWe've made an assumption that you have a 3D model file already. This would typically be an stl file. If not, you can download 3D models (check out thingiverse.com, cults3d.com, thangs.com, etc.) or you can create your own using many free 3D design applications. FreeCad and Blender are available on the lab PCs.
After clicking next, you'll see this screen. Select Origin at center and click next. As you become more skilled at 3D printing, you may come back to this screen to achieve better results.
Clicking Next should take you to the "What's New" screen. Click through that and you're ready to set your slicer settings and slice your first model.
If this is the first time you're using Ultimaker Cura on the lab PC (under your profile), it will prompt you to install a printer.
Click "Add a non-networked printer", and scroll until you find "Creality 3D", where you should select the "Creality CR-10" option and click next:
Now that the printer is configured in Ultimaker Cura, we need to set the slicer settings. Most of the settings can be left to their defaults, but there are two settings we can "set and forget" and two settings we should review for each print.
We'll start with the settings we should review for each print:
Infill (%) - This is the density of the supporting structure inside the print. Increase the % if you need your print to be stronger or withstand more weight. 10-20% is enough for most prints. Adhesion - This is typically a small "brim" that prints around the bottom of your print that helps the print stick to the bed. On glass beds, it is a good idea to select this setting. The "brim" can easily be trimmed away when the print is complete.Support - If your print has parts that hang in the air (overhangs), you'll need to include supports. This is an advanced topic, but the basic support settings are typically good enough and the slicer will try to only use supports where necessary.
Now let's talk bout the "Set and Forget" settings. These settings can be set and generally left alone unless you change the type of filament or have a very specific requirement in a print (speed, overhangs, etc.)
Printing Temperature - this is the temperature the printer will use to melt the plastic. 200 degrees is a good starting point and works well enough for most materials. Build Plate Temperature - this is the temperature the printer will use for the glass bed. If the bed is too cool, the print won't stick. If it is too hot, the print will curl or warp as it prints. 60 degrees is a good start and works for most materials.In case you missed it, click "Custom" on the previous screen to see these advanced print settings.
Set the Slicer Settings
Now that your slicer settings are correct, drag the STL file into Cura. You'll see the design show up in the UI. You can move, rotate, and scale the model using the buttons to the left side of the window:
A lot goes into proper orientation of your model. The goal is to eliminate as much overhang as possible. Anything not printed directly on the print bed or directly above the parts in contact with the print bed may require supports.
There are many other options, including "multiply", "support blocker", "arrange", etc. You'll learn about these as you attempt more advanced prints.
Slice the Model
Once you've arranged your model, click the "Slice" button on the bottom-right corner of the window. This will generate the gcode file:
Insert your MicroSD card (this printer does not have a way to upload the file directly) and click "Save to Removable Drive".
That's all it takes to slice the model! Let's move to the next step: Load the gcode file onto the printer.
When slicing is complete, it should summarize the results and let you save the gcode file:
Slice the Model
Insert the MicroSD card into the slot on the right side of the controller:
Now it's time to load the gcode file on the printer and initiate the print. First step... make sure the printer is on! The power switch is on the back of the left component of the printer.
Press the button/knob to access the printer menu. Once there, select the "Print from SD Card" to scroll through the files on the SD card.
That's all there is to it, usually. Keep reading for a few notes that may help you achieve better results.
Locate your file and select it by pressing the button/knob again. This starts the print. You'll see the temperature numbers on the display start to increase as the printer heats up the print bed and print head/nozzle. Once it reaches the set temperatures (i.e. 200 degrees for the print head and 60 degrees for the print bed), it will begin to print.
Print the Model
You've completed all the necessary steps to setup the 3D printing slicing software, slice your model, and start the print job. That's it, right? Maybe...
Sometimes, things don't go as planned. Here are some thoughts/ideas on topics to think about to achieve better prints:
Problem
Your print keeps breaking away from the glass bed.
Solution
You may notice a can of AquaNet near the printer... spray a little on the glass bed before the print starts. This improves adhesion without changing the texture of the print. Note: please clean the bed after your print completes or the hairspray will build up and cause issues on other prints.
Problem
You can't find the gcode file on the SD card.
Solution
You may need to reduce the # of files on the SD card or change the name to not include any special characters.
Problem
Your print won't stick to the bed, even after using hairspray or glue to help.
Solution
You may need to adjust the z-offset (the distance between the nozzle and the glass bed or level the bed. Both of these are advanced topics and should not be attempted without a firm understanding of the steps. Contact innovationlab@arcbtech.com if you believe either of these adjustments are necessary.
Having Issues?InnovationLab@arcbtech.com