Return to flip book view


Page 1

S P E C I A L WAT C H M A G A Z I N E Eric Valli and the Hand of Time Discover the world of this year s new watches As seen by Audemars Piguet Breguet Bvlgari Cartier Chanel Grand Seiko Herm s Hublot Jaeger LeCoultre Louis Vuitton Montblanc Panerai Piaget Richard Mille Rolex TAG Heuer Ulysse Nardin Van Cleef Arpels European Edition 2019 S P E C I A L F E AT U R E T H U RS DAY M AY 16 2019 P RO D UC ED F O R T H E DA I LY T E LEG R A P H BY ED I T I O N S T E M P S I N T ER N AT I O N A L W H O TA K E SO LE R ES P O N S I B I L I T Y F O R T H E C O N T EN TS AVA I L A B LE I N LO N DO N A N D SOU T H R EG I O N S O N LY watchyour time com

Page 2

Page 3

Page 4

Breguet La Marine Chronograph 5527 B E I J I N G C A N N E S C H E N G D U C H O N G Q I N G D U B A I E K AT E R I N B U R G G E N E VA G S TA A D H O N G K O N G K U A L A L U M P U R L A S V E G A S L O N D O N L O S A N G E L E S M A C A O M I L A N M O S C O W N E W Y O R K N I N G B O PA R I S S E O U L S H A N G H A I S I N G A P O R E TA I P E I T O K Y O V I E N N A XI A N Z U R I C H W W W B R E G U E T C O M

Page 5

WATCH YOUR TIME SPECIAL WATCH MAGAZINE EDITIONS TEMPS INTERNATIONAL LTD 2503 BANK OF AMERICA TOWER 12 HARCOURT ROAD CENTRAL HONG KONG EDITIONS TEMPS INTERNATIONAL COM PRODUCED FOR THE DAILY TELEGR APH ON THURSDAY MAY 16 EUROPE AN EDITION 2019 PUBLISHED 2019 BY EDITIONS TEMPS INTERNATIONAL WHO TAKE SOLE SIMULTANEOUSLY WITH LE MONDE FR ANCE RESPONSIBILIT Y FOR THE CONTENTS FR ANKFURTER ALLGEMEINE GERMANY IL SOLE 24 ORE ITALY EL MUNDO SPAIN 11 focus montblanc LOUIS VUIT TON VOYAGER MINUTE REPEATER FLYING TOURBILLON PAVED THE T WO WORLDS OF DESIGN AND WATCHMAKING COME TOGE THER IN Reconnect 13 editorial Time and the Universe THIS VERY MODERN STAGING OF THE TOURBILLON ESCAPEMENT WHICH LOUIS VUIT TON HAS COMBINED WITH A MINUTE REPE ATER INSIDE THE VOYAGER CASE RECOGNISABLE FOR THE UNUSUAL VOLUMES OF ITS NOT QUITEROUND NOT QUITE SQUARE SHAPE THIS GEM SE T VERSION IN WHITE GOLD BOASTS BAGUE T TE CUT DIAMONDS ON THE BE ZEL AND LUGS DIAME TER IS A VERY RE ASONABLE 42MM CONSIDERING THE COMPLE XIT Y OF THE MOVEMENT INSIDE WHILE A HEIGHT OF 9 7MM MAKES IT ONE OF THE THINNEST WATCHES ON THE MARKE T WITH THESE T WO COMPLICATIONS VISIBLE THROUGH THE SAPPHIRE DIAL WHOSE PAT TERN IS INSPIRED BY LOUIS VUIT TON S STRIPED CANVAS FROM 1872 THE MANUAL WINDING MECHANICAL CALIBRE LV100 PROVIDES FOUR DAYS OF POWER RESERVE 15 focus audemars piguet Cracking the Code 17 focus print alive Opens a new window on information 20 focus jaeger lecoultre The Art of Precision 22 DESIGN ERIC WITH A NEPALESE HONEY HUNTER AND OLD FRIEND AT THE OPENING OF THE SCHOOL Spicing Up Design FABRICE ESCHMANN 28 focus breguet Marine Marvels 30 focus panerai The Italian Job 32 focus bvlgari Renaissance Brand 34 ELEGANCE Concours d l gance PALOMA RECIO 37 focus cartier Reshaping History 40 VINTAGE In Love with Vintage CHRISTOPHE ROULET 43 focus richard mille Eric Valli Since 1981 Eric has captured on camera some of the most inaccessible locations in the world working for titles such as National Geographic Life GEO Paris Match Stern and Smithsonian magazines and The Sunday Times of London Eric is an expert on the Himalayas in particular Nepal Tibet and China In 1987 his photo story Honey Hunters documenting the cliff climbing Gurung tribesmen of west central Nepal won a World Press Award In 1990 Eric shot Shadow Hunters which captures the gathering of birds nests for soup in a vast cave in western Thailand The film received an Academy Award nomination for best documentary In 1999 he directed the adventure story Himalaya a tale of survival in the mountain region which became the first Nepalese film to receive an Academy Award nomination for best foreign film Eric has published 19 books to date In total his photography has been recognized with three World Press Awards In addition he has shot commercial work for Herm s and Louis Vuitton In 2012 he directed the film Himalayan Gold Rush co produced by state broadcaster China Central Television which was seen by 60 million viewers in China alone For the project Living Yangtze he portrayed the river through the people living in harmony with it in conjunction with Swarovski Eric spent six months along the world s third largest waterway An exhibition accompanied the launch of this in 2015 at Photo Shanghai ArtScience Museum in Singapore the Milan Expo and at COP21 in Paris as well as the Orangerie du S nat inside Paris s Luxembourg Gardens Over the last two years Eric has spent six months in Nepal living and working with mountain communities whose resilience after the 2015 earthquake he has extensively recorded in film and photographs In February this year the school which Eric had helped sponsor and which had been partially destroyed by the quake reopened thanks to the goodwill of friends and strangers and to the volunteer architects and trades from France who helped rebuild it and train the local community in anti seismic techniques www rocknwood fr sunirpourreconstruire PUBLISHER FOUNDER CHRISTIAN LL AVALL UBACH MANAGING DIRECTOR ISABELLE BOUDRINGHIN EDITIONS TEMPS INTERNATIONAL COM WATCH CONSULTANT ERIC DUMATIN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR CHRISTOPHE ROULET CONTRIBUTORS PETER BR AUN GERMANY VINCENT DAVEAU FR ANCE PAOLO DE VECCHI ITALY FABRICE ESCHMANN SWITZERL AND PALOMA RECIO SPAIN CHRISTOPHE ROULET SWITZERL AND TRANSLATORS SANDR A PETCH PALOMA RECIO PAOLO DE VECCHI AMA A TR ADUCTIONS PHOTOGRAPHER ERIC VALLI ARTISTIC DIRECTOR VINCENT FESSELET GEN VE PHOTOENGRAVERS BOMBIE GEN VE PRINTED IN THE EU REPRODUCTION EVEN PARTIAL OF MATERIAL PUBLISHED IN WATCH YOUR TIME IS STRICTLY PROHIBITED ALL RIGHTS RESERVED IN THE U K AND OTHER COUNTRIES Sweet Treats 45 focus tag heuer Techno vintage 46 SPORT All at Sea PAOLO DE VECCHI 49 focus chanel Eternal Icon 51 focus herm s In Phase with the Moon 54 COLLECTORS Collector s Hour VINCENT DAVEAU 59 focus van cleef arpels 61 The Stars Come Out focus piaget Let It Shine 62 ADVENTURE Travel Companions PETER BRAUN 65 focus seiko Pride of Japan 66 focus g rald genta A Flying Start

Page 6


Page 7


Page 8

Page 9

Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute CHANEL COM THE NEW J12 NEW SELF WINDING MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT Caliber 12 1 Chronometer certified by the COSC 70 hour power reserve Highly resistant ceramic watch Swiss made 5 year warranty

Page 10

Page 11

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 11 Reconnect Montblanc s 1858 watches are built for adventure inviting us to go out and experience the world s many wonders The star product in the range the Geosphere reconnects us with nature When the pressure of work builds up when being constantly connected puts impossible demands on our time nature can be the best place to go and clear our head Or so Montblanc s latest Reconnect campaign wants us to believe It s easy to get caught up in the intense pace of life and forget that the best way to recalibrate and find focus is to experience the beauty of nature says Nicolas Baretzki Montblanc CEO Any kind of outdoor exploration is an extraordinary source of inspiration contributing to greater creativity happiness and inner strength To illustrate his point the campaign shows a fashion photographer and a singer songwriter transported from their busy working environments into nature s soothing surroundings where they are able to reconnect with themselves and the world a tribute to the mountaineering world As every geography student knows Mont Blanc is the highest summit in the Alps When celebrating the 160th anniversary of its Minerva Haute Horlogerie Manufacture in 2018 Montblanc thus decided to dedicate the Geosphere to the Seven Summits climb the ultimate mountaineering challenge These seven peaks are symbolised by as many red dots on the two domed hemisphere globes on the dial Making one full rotation in 24 hours the northern hemisphere globe turning anti clockwise and the southern hemisphere clockwise they track world times Complementing this indication is a second time zone display together with a date window tribute to the Minerva Manufacture s extraordinary heritage Having made its debut in 2017 as a series of limited editions the collection has since grown in stature Signature features include cases in bronze appreciated for the unique patina it develops with wear and a clear vintage inspiration accentuated by khaki green dials and domed cathedral shaped hands Solidly built the 1858 is the watch every adventurer should have in his backpack Montblanc has good reason to reference Minerva in its collections Established in 1858 it rose to prominence as a manufacturer of professional measuring instruments and timers for just about every trade and sport A fact that hasn t escaped collectors as Nicolas Baretzki confirmed at January s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva The completely revived Minerva offer is exciting for watch collectors who now stop by to check out the booth There is so much more at Minerva to inspire us whether from a technical perspective or in terms of its history The potential is enormous Something to mediate in the quiet of nature a Geosphere on your wrist Christophe Roulet At Montblanc this re connection between man and nature takes the form of a watch whose attributes capture the force harmony and majesty of the great outdoors A watch that invites us to explore our surroundings as much as our inner selves For the brand this watch is the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere already Endless potential While the Geosphere is clearly the highlight of the 1858 collection the entire range is a catalyst for the brand with its sport watch meets tool watch style and proudly vintage accents Precise legible and robust for use in extreme conditions the legendary professional Minerva watches from the 1920s and 1930s were conceived for military use and exploration notes the brand Inspired by these historic timepieces the Montblanc 1858 pays MONTBL ANC S RECONNECT CAMPAIGN IN TODAY S FAST PACED AND INTER MONTBL ANC 1858 GEOSPHERE LIMITED EDITION THIS GEOSPHERE IS DED BOTH HEMISPHERES IS HIGHLIGHTED BY A WHITE LINE WITH SUPERLUMINOVA CONNECTED WORLD FINDING THE INNER CL ARIT Y AND INSPIR ATION TO FOCUS ICATED TO THE WOR LD S SE VEN SU M M IT CHALLENGE THE HOLY GR AI L OF COATING A SECOND TIME ZONE DISPL AY IS LOCATED AT 9 O CLOCK AND A DATE ON THE THINGS THAT RE ALLY MAT TER CAN BE CHALLENGING BUT STEPPING MOUNTAINEERS IT FE ATURES A WORLD TIME COMPLICATION WITH T WO DOMED LINKED TO THE LOCAL TIME IS SHOWN IN AN APERTURE AT 3 O CLOCK WITH OUTSIDE TO E XPERIENCE NATURE CAN HELP US RECONNECT WITH WHO WE HEMISPHERE GLOBES THAT MAKE ONE COMPLE TE ROTATION IN 24 HOURS THE THIS NEW WORLD TIME DISPL AY FOR THE T WO HEMISPHERES THE MONTBL ANC ARE AND THE WORLD AROUND US MONTBL ANC S NEW CAMPAIGN TELLS THE NORTHERN HEMISPHERE AT 12 O CLOCK TURNS ANTI CLOCK WISE WHILE THE 1858 GEOSPHERE BRINGS AN INSTINCTIVE WAY OF APPRECIATING DIFFERENT STORY OF T WO DIFFERENT INDIVIDUALS E ACH ON THEIR OWN JOURNE Y OF SOUTHERN HEM ISPHERE TURNS CLOCK WISE SURROUNDING THEM BOTH IS TIME ZONES SELF DISCOVERY THROUGH NATURE ACCOMPANIED BY THE GEOSPHERE 1858 A SCALE WITH THE 24 TIME ZONES COMPLEMENTED BY A DAY NIGHT INDICA CRE ATED TO INSPIRE US TO MAKE THE MOST OUT OF LIFE TION IN CONTR ASTING COLOURS THE LONGITUDE REFERENCE MERIDIAN FOR

Page 12

Didier Gourdon CALIBER RM 07 01 www richardmille com

Page 13

EDITORIAL WATCH YOUR TIME 13 S h u t t e r s to c k H u b l o t Time and the Universe Some 25 centuries separate Socrates from Steve Jobs and still the philosopher s aura continued to fascinate the tech guru Great minds never die so they say They are impervious to time the raw material for the inventive genius of scientists and engineers Not long after Socrates this quest to master time had already attained a remarkable degree of perfection as testified by the Antikythera mechanism discovered by chance in a wreck at the bottom of the Aegean Sea It shows an advanced understanding of astronomy and the mental agility to use this knowledge to calculate cycles of time The wisdom of Socrates a model then and now So what of today Has technology disconnected us from the human soul Not if we consider the instruments we use to measure time Horology has always appealed to the emotions not only among the masters who for centuries have searched for ways to track time with the greatest possible precision but among the admirers of these technical tours de force too leading them to much greater considerations A watch is a fragment of eternity on the wrist so we ve been told But what is eternity An atomic clock uses the stability of the electromagnetic signal emitted by an electron Immutability on a human scale I would trade all my technology for an afternoon with Socrates Steve Jobs 1955 2011 These simple questions are ample proof that a watch is infinitely more than the sum of its micro components With just a little imagination it can be a window onto the cosmos a reminder that the measurement of time originated with observations of the stars and planets Photographer and film maker Eric Valli offers his own observations and contemplations of the world and the forces within it throughout this magazine alongside the instruments of time that so inspire us Its pages unfold into a microcosm of knowledge arts and culture one that has vastly evolved thanks to advances in science and technology This same technology enables us to enjoy watchmaking from a different perspective that of augmented reality as we invite you to discover in this issue of Watch Your Time So welcome to the fourth dimension where reading becomes a new experience and watchmaking a window onto the universe Watch Your Time

Page 14

Midnight Plan tarium Poetic Complications watch automatic mechanical movement pink gold case Mars Mercury Venus Jupiter Saturn and Earth revolve around the Sun in real time Haute Joaillerie place Vend me since 1906 9 NEW BOND STREET HARRODS SELFRIDGES www vancleefarpels com 44 20 7108 6210

Page 15

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 15 Cracking the Code Earlier this year after a seven year gestation Audemars Piguet presented Code 11 59 and created as much of a stir as it did with the Royal Oak almost fifty years ago FR AN OIS HENRY BENNAHMIAS AUDEMARS PIGUE T CEO December 18th 2018 was a red letter day for Audemars Piguet on two counts The first relates to the financial results of this family owned firm established in 1875 in Le Brassus On that day its turnover exceeded one billion Swiss francs making it the seventh member of an elite circle of Swiss watchmakers It s been a remarkable rise given that revenue was in the region of CHF 500 million when Fran ois Henry Bennahmias took over as Chief Executive in 2012 and that since 2015 the brand has capped production at 40 000 watches a year Even so this wasn t the only cause for celebration on that December day The second was the enigmatically titled Code 11 59 Code because modern communication is about symbols 11 59 i e one minute before a new day because everyone has at least once in their life experienced that fateful moment when time stands still in the instants before a life changing event or decision Putting the two together to form Code 11 59 gives us the new collection from Audemars Piguet It was a long awaited launch considering the brand spent a Instant response Almost fifty years on the launch of Code 11 59 proved as disruptive as that of the Royal Oak With the wraps barely off the different models a time and date a chronograph a perpetual calendar two tourbillons including an openworked version and a minute repeater social media was ablaze with comments There is certainly plenty to say about the new design starting with the highly architectural case which sandwiches an octagonal middle between a round back and a very narrow bezel to create a wide dial opening for the baton hands and rounded typeface a mix of classical and avant garde Finishing is impeccable and the movements worthy of Audemars Piguet s finest hours The brand plans to sell two thousand Code 11 59 watches this year The longerterm objective is for the collection to make up 20 of sales boosted by the unisex appeal of its 41mm diameter which says Fran ois Henry Bennahmias wears like a 39mm with the visibility of a 43mm Audemars Piguet certainly packed a punch when it launched what Bennahmias describes as a hybrid genuinely contemporary and virtually impossible to copy collection Those still reeling from the impact should see the importance for the brand to come up with something distinct from its Royal Oak Watches that will attract a new audience to the brand win over Asian customers and generate interest online As far as the latter is concerned it s already mission accomplished Eric Dumatin CODE 11 59 BY AUDEMARS PIGUET SELF WINDING AUDEMARS PIGUE T INTRO CODE 11 59 BY AUDEMARS PIGUET SELF WINDING CHRONOGRAPH CALIBRE 4401 CODE 11 59 BY AUDEMARS PIGUET TOURBILLON OPENWORKED THE INNOVATIVE DUCES A COLLECTION WHOSE DESIGN TROPES ARE UN LI KE ANY TH ING THE THE CODE 11 59 COLLECTION IS A FINE EX AMPLE OF AUDEMARS PIGUET S EXPER DESIGN OF THE CODE 11 59 IS ONE OF ITS HALLMARKS WITH A THIN ROUND BR AND S MANY FANS HAVE SEEN BEFORE ONE OF THE THIRTEEN CODE 11 59 TISE EM BODIED HERE BY ITS FIRST INTEGR ATED COLUM N WHEEL CHRONO BE ZEL ABOVE A SUBTLY OCTAGONAL CASE MIDDLE OPENWORKED LUGS AND REFERENCES THE SELF WINDING MODEL ADOPTS A CLE AN AESTHETIC TO OFFER G R A PH M OVEM ENT I N AD D I T I ON TO TH E STAN DAR D C H RONOG R A PH I N D I A L ACQUERED DIAL ALSO THE DOUBLE CURVE OF THE SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL CRE A CL ASSIC INTERPRE TATION OF THE ESSENTIAL INDICATIONS OF HOURS MIN CATIONS AND A DATE DISPL AY A FLYBACK FUNCTION ENABLES THE USER TO ATES A UNIQUE OPTICAL EXPERIENCE THE TOURBILLON OPENWORKED VERSION UTES SECONDS AND DATE RECORD SUCCESSIVE INTERVALS WITHOUT HAVING TO STOP AND RESE T THE UNDERSCORES THIS AESTHE TIC WITH ITS STARK MOVEMENT full seven years developing the 13 references in the range They are powered by six mechanical movements three of which are completely new There is always a risk attached to any launch it is its own 11 59 moment Anyone in the watch industry will tell you the importance certain collections can have for the brand that brought them to life For Audemars Piguet that collection would be the Royal Oak a watch so readily identified with its maker there is an almost perfect osmosis between the two When it first appeared in 1972 it broke with anything the industry had seen before Twenty one years later the brand gave it a sibling the Royal Oak Offshore CHRONOGR APH HAND E ACH TIME

Page 16

Page 17

Watch Your Time FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 17 opens a new window on information The best of both worlds Print and digital are no longer mutually exclusive sources of information Now you can browse a magazine using your mobile phone or tablet to complete the reading experience and get to the heart of the subjects that interest you Je an M ar c H um m jm hu m m c h Watch Your Time is offering an augmented reality experience that makes your magazine the gateway to the digital world Thanks to the easy to use technology of the Print Alive app the magazine s pages come to life enhancing the information on the printed page with videos animated graphics even content from our partners sites Print Alive takes the Watch Your Time editorial message further by inviting you to enter the fabulous world of luxury timepieces Step inside the manufacturing facilities of the most prestigious brands contemplate mechanical complications in action be a VIP guest at the major sport ing and cultural events sponsored by the great names in time measurement It s all possible from the pages of your magazine Augmented reality is exactly that digital technologies connecting media to deliver a wealth of richly illustrated content For a very long time one of the pleasures of reading was that we could picture our own image of the subject in question Our imagination could run free but were we getting an accurate truthful view Seeing for real what an article has to say what a photo is illustrating is now possible Using a digital device this experience does more than tell you about what s being discussed on the page it generates emotions pride and a true sense of belonging to a world with which we feel such a strong connection We want you to become a knowledgeable member of our community Download our Print Alive app scan our interactive pages and you ll look at your magazine with new eyes All our print editions now feature augmented reality content THE APP WAS DE VELOPED BY XTEND THE SWISS AGENCY AT THE CUT TING EDGE OF AUGMENTED RE ALIT Y TECHNOLOGY W W W AUGMENTEDRE ALIT Y CH 1 GET THE APP DOWNLOAD THE LATEST VERSION OF PRINT ALIVE FOR ANDROID OR IPHONE THE AUGMENTED RE ALIT Y AR FUNCTION IS BUILT 3 LOOK FOR THE ICON WATCH OUT FOR THE PRINT ALIVE ICON WHILE RE ADING YOUR MAGA ZINE INTO THE APP VIEW CONTENT USE YOUR PHONE TO SCAN THE MAGA ZINE AND DIS 2 L AUNCH THE AR FUNCTION AUGMENTED REALIT Y LOCATE THE AR SCAN PL AY AUGMENTED RE ALIT Y CONTENT VIDEOS GR APHICS IMAGES BUT TON IN THE MENU YOU CAN COME BACK TO THE MENU AT ANY TIME TAP REL ATING TO THE ARTICLE YOU CAN MOVE THE CAMER A SELECT THE BUT TON AND YOUR PHONE S CAMER A FOR SCANNING WILL DISPL AY THE SECTION YOU WANT AND WATCH VIDEOS IN FULL SCREEN MODE MAKE SURE YOU ALLOW THE APP TO ACCESS YOUR CAMER A ON YOUR PHONE

Page 18

T H E A R T O F Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Scratch resistant sapphire case In house skeleton tourbillon movement with a 5 day power reserve Interchangeable strap using patented One Click system Limited edition of 99 pieces F U S I O N

Page 19

BOUTIQUES LONDON hublot com 14 New Bond Street Tel 020 7499 5765 Harrods Knightsbridge Tel 020 3214 1234

Page 20

20 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS The Art of Precision Jaeger LeCoultre offers a renewed demonstration of excellence in ultra complicated mechanisms and in watchmaking s decorative arts A combination that sets the 185 year old Manufacture apart CATHERINE R NIER JAEGER LECOULTRE CEO At Jaeger LeCoultre 2019 is about the art of precision the precision behind the watchmaker s every gesture repeated in the precision of the mechanical movement and the precise execution of the decorative arts It s a philosophy that guides Catherine R nier who was appointed Chief Executive in the spring of 2018 My first objective is to put emotion back at the heart of Jaeger LeCoultre and to assert a clear identity that is aligned with the company s values she declared at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie SIHH fine watch fair held in January in Geneva We must come back to our fundamentals of elegant watches with often complex in house movements Watches with substance Ms R nier is implementing this strategy through three strong lines of development grand complications the m tiers d art or decorative arts and icons such as the Reverso now joined by the sensual feminine Rendez Vous watches the women s segment makes up half of the brand s sales These are all areas in which La Grande Maison 185 years old and counting has plenty to say It came to SIHH with what was unanimously agreed to be one of the most outstanding watches on show The Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perp tuel is among the most complicated timepieces that Jaeger LeCoultre has ever made Assembled from 1 050 components with twelve patents filed it owes its existence to six years of research and development The Manufacture which boasts an astounding 1 250 in house movements had been silent on the grandes complications front for two years and what a comeback this is Contained inside a case that measures 43mm across and 14 08mm high are wait for it a perpetual calendar with a jumping date display that can be set forwards and backwards a feat in itself a bi axial gyrotourbillon whose rotations are coupled to a constant force mechanism ensuring steady amplitude whatever the state of wind and a minute repeater that chimes on four gongs the melody played by Big Ben inside the Palace of Westminster in London It is what collectors reverentially refer to as a grail watch Fascinating values The second focus concerns the m tiers d art watchmaking s companion crafts that include enamelling engraving and gem setting All these arts have been brought within the Manufacture which is at pains to perpetuate these skills This year s Master Ultra Thin collection with moon phase perpetual calendar and tourbillon versions comes with sumptuous blue dials that are enamelled and guilloch engraved by hand in Jaeger LeCoultre s studios Another favourite canvas for the m tiers d art is the Reverso a legend among watches invented in 1931 and distinguished by its rectangular pivoting case As well as offering the potential for two dials in which to incorporate complications the back of its case gives wonderful scope for decoration In the Reverso Tribute Small Seconds just one side serves to display the time The other is open to customisation by the Atelier Reverso It is understandably hugely popular Gem setting is another of the Manufacture s carefully cultivated techniques Which brings us quite naturally to the Rendez Vous collection Both the Moon and Night Day versions have been given a lavish jewellery treatment this year with two rows of diamonds encircling the bezel On one row the stones are mounted in a prong setting deliberately chosen to allow more light to penetrate the diamonds which nestled one against the other form a dazzling halo Catherine R nier recalls a visit to the Manufacture in Le Sentier and how fascinated she was by the values inherent to the firm in particular respect for its heritage and for the 180 professions whose expertise continues to thrive within its walls All part of this art of precision Eric Dumatin JAEGER LECOULTRE REVERSO TRIBUTE SMALL SECOND ME ASURING 45 6MM JAEG E R LECOULTRE MASTER GR ANDE TR ADITION GYROTOURBILLON WEST H ER E T H E Y A R E A B I A X I A L GY ROTO U R B I L LO N W I T H A C O N STA N T F O RC E IN LENGTH AND 27 4MM WIDE WITH A HEIGHT OF JUST 8 5MM THIS RE VERSO MINSTER PER P TUEL TH E HYB R I S M EC H AN I CA L I N E R EP R ES EN TS TH E P I N M EC H A N I S M A D O U B L E G UA R A N T E E O F P R EC I S I O N A M I N U T E R E P E AT E R TRIBUTE IS IDE ALLY PROPORTIONED A TR AIT IT SHARES WITH THE ORIGINAL NAC LE OF WATCH M AK ING AT JAEGER LECOULTRE AS DEMONSTR ATED ONCE WHOSE WESTMINSTER CHIME RECRE ATES THE FOUR PHR ASE MELODY PL AYED RE VERSO FROM 1931 WORN BY POLO PL AYERS THIS NEW BOUTIQUE VERSION AG A I N BY TH I S M ASTER G R AN DE TR AD I T I ON ON LY 36 W I LL B E M ADE W I TH BY B IG BEN AND A PER PE TUAL CALENDAR WHOSE DATE CAN BE ADJUSTED PAIRS A STEEL CASE WITH A MAGNIFICENT BURGUNDY DIAL THE SAME RICH EITHER A SI LVER GR AINED D IAL OR A B LUE ENAM EL D IAL THREE OF THE MOST F O RWA R D S A N D BAC K WA R D S T H I S I S B E YO N D A N Y D O U B T O N E O F T H E RED SHADE AS THE CALFSKIN STR AP BY FAGLIANO EM B LEM AT I C C O M P LI CAT I ONS I N WATC H M A K I NG AR E B ROUG HT TOG E TH ER YE AR S OUTSTAND ING TI M EPIECES

Page 21

Page 22

Page 23

DESIGN WATCH YOUR TIME 23 Spicing Up Design o Fabrice Eschmann On his chariot of rubies mingled with azure and gold Apollo throws torrents of light Voltaire 1694 1778 While few people could give a rational explanation of what it is about a watch that appeals designers like chefs have a palette of ingredients at their disposal that will determine the texture colour and ultimately flavour of their creation If you please draw me a sheep Who could forget Antoine de SaintExup ry s classic story After hastily sketching one then two then three sheep none of which will do the Pilot draws a box The sheep you asked for is inside To which the Little Prince exclaims That is exactly the way I wanted it And there you have it as if by magic each of us can picture the perfect lamb inside the box It doesn t even have to be the whole animal A single detail is enough to evoke an adorable woolly creature a little pink nose soft curls soulful eyes Out of this box we conjure our image of the ideal sheep fashioned since childhood by cultural references collective beliefs and aesthetic figurations E r i c Va l l i Proust s madeleine Substitute watch for sheep and it s exactly the same We imagine it inside its box round rectangular or tonneau shaped We want it to be gold or steel We d like it to have a blue dial or a visible movement Like Proust s memory laden madeleine these individual elements spark a torrent of images When looking for ways to elicit our emotions or to create meaning through values watch designers draw on pre existing artistic trends What Nicolas Babey calls aesthetic conventions A professor of social science at Haute Ecole de Gestion Arc a business school in Switzerland he has analysed the visual linguistics of watches meaning the grammar which explains why a tiny detail can prefigure a much loved whole and inspire us to adopt the object in its entirety BREGUET CLASSIQUE 5177 GR AND FEU BLUE ENAMEL ABR AHAM LOUIS BREGUE T ESCHEWED THE BAROQUE E XUBER ANCE OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY IN FAVOUR OF REFINED AESTHE TICS A ST YLE THAT SEDUCED THE ELITE THIS YE AR S BREGUE T CL ASSIQUE 5177 GR AND FEU BLUE ENAMEL IS INSPIRED BY THESE NEOCL ASSICAL LINES HOWE VER BREGUE T ADDS A FRESH TOUCH BY RECRE ATING THE COLOUR OBTAINED WHEN BLUING BREGUE T HANDS ON THE DEEP BLUE GR AND FEU ENAMEL DIAL DE VELOPING THE PIGMENTS THAT WOULD GUAR ANTEE THIS E X ACT NUANCE THROUGHOUT THE PRODUCTION PROCESS CALLED FOR E XTENSIVE RESE ARCH Whereas the mechanism of a watch gives the time its design recreates time Or rather commemorates it Because according to Professor Babey Aesthetic conventions are a way of seeing the world They are historic productions which generally come with a message dictating what is ugly and what is beautiful They set out aesthetic values elect specific materials and particular colourways and appeal to the majority of our senses These principles express themselves in fashion architecture film television advertising technology social innovation and literature They never die or are brought back to life for ever tucked in a corner of our minds imprinted on the collective conscience They are the visual hallmark of an era its very definition even We know them as Empire Art Nouveau Bauhaus Art Deco Streamline Machine or Transfer

Page 24

24 WATCH YOUR TIME DESIGN From Empire to Liberty Style The watch designer is a rarely feted figure who uses aesthetic ingredients in much the same way a chef plays around with spices Throw them into the mix but in moderation the most successful designs incorporate two at the most three trends Without these conventions insists Professor Babey Watches would sell solely for their practical purpose And there are many other ways of telling the time Hence the importance of design Breguet for one has consistently chosen the purity of Empire style In the mid 1800s Paris was the capital of fashion architecture and luxury Its handcrafted objects were exported to every European capital and even as far away as China Its marquetry porcelain jewellery and enamels were all the rage With a dial that boasts four different engine turned patterns hobnail barleycorn straight chevron and cross hatching a fluted case and Roman numerals the Classique Tourbillon Extra Thin Automatic 2014 is one of the most eloquent examples of this particular convention The onset of industrialisation and the development of new means of production made it possible to manufacture more complex shapes So began an era of curvilinear forms and patterns inspired by trees flowers and insects a show of colour creativity and femininity Imagined in reaction to the stifling rules of earlier movements Art Nouveau was immediately embraced even though its success was shortlived This was the early 1900s and once again Paris led the way with its sinuous Metro entrances organic buildings and everywhere from advertising I posters to stained glass windows representations of women like delicate flowers The Americans called it Tiffany Style the British Liberty Style the Germans Jugendstil and the Swiss Style Sapin But this convention would be nipped in the bud by the First World War It wasn t until the 1980s that certain elements reappeared With the colourful calligraphed numerals leaf hands and curved cases of its Vanguard Lady watches Franck Muller offers a fine example of Art Nouveau in watchmaking Bauhaus back to basics The mood was darker after the horrors of the First World War Objects were designed to be functional first decorative second Or to quote the American architect Louis Sullivan one of the leading figures of the Chicago School form follows function In Europe functionalism influenced art philosophy and even politics after the creation by Walter Gropius in 1919 of the Staatliches Bauhaus art school in Weimar The Bauhaus movement s clean rational lines spilled over from architecture into painting theatre dance and photography As a precursor for contemporary design its precepts underpin many of the objects that surround us in our daily life Swatch Mondaine and Junghans all look to Bauhaus in their designs Nicolas Babey goes further and suggests that we replace the vague adjective classical with the Bauhaus convention which is rife in watchmaking A including at Patek Philippe II III V IIII VI VII I ROLEX DAY DATE THE DAY DATE HAS ALWAYS STOOD III JAEGER LECOULTRE REVERSO TRIBUTE DUOFACE V FR D RIQUE CONSTANT SLIMLINE POWER RESERVE VII RICHARD MILLE RM 67 01 AUTOMATIC E X TR A FLAT FOR ROLE X S WATCHMAKING E XPERTISE AT ITS FINEST THE RE VERSO RECOGNISABLE BY ITS THREE EMBLEM MANUFACTURE FREDERIQUE CONSTANT L AUNCHES ITS DEVELOPED FOR THE RM 67 01 THE CRMA6 AUTOMATIC ITS PRECISION RELIABILIT Y LEGIBILIT Y AND PRESENCE ATIC GADROONS HAS BEEN ENCHANTING BOTH MEN T WENT Y EIGHTH IN HOUSE CALIBRE IN THE MANUFAC MOVEMENT IS JUST 3 6M M HIGH ITS TITANIUM PL ATE MAKE IT THE ULTIMATE STATUS WATCH WORN BY PRES AND WOMEN WITH AN EYE FOR BE AUT Y SINCE ITS CRE TURE COLLECTION SHOWI NG HOURS AND M I NUTES AND BRIDGES ARE FINISHED WITH A COMBINATION OF IDENTS LE ADERS AND VISIONARIES THE WORLD OVER ATION SOPHISTICATED AND ELEGANT THE RE VERSO WITH A DATE COUNTER AT 6 O CLOCK POWER RESERVE GRE Y AND BL ACK ELECTROPL ASMA TRE ATMENT THE II BL ANCPAIN VILLERET TOURBILLON VOLANT HEURE TRIBUTE DUOFACE IN PINK GOLD HIDES A SECOND DIAL IS A COMFORTABLE 50 HOURS THIS AUTOMATIC FC 723 W I ND I NG ROTOR I S I N P L AT I NU M TUR N I NG I T OVER SAUTANTE MINUTE R TROGR ADE B L ANCPA I N PA I RS SHOWING A SECOND TIME ZONE CA LI BR E USES THE FC 703 M OVEM ENT AS ITS BASE RE VE ALS THE E XTENSIVE SKELE TONWORK OF A MOVE THE FLYING TOURBILLON WITH NEW JUMPING HOURS IIII HUBLOT CLASSIC FUSION BERLUTI CHRONOGRAPH WITH THE ADDITION OF A POWER RESERVE MODULE MENT WHOSE MODERN ARCHITECTURE BARES ITSELF A N D R E T R O G R A D E M I N U T E S C O M P L I C AT I O N S I N T H E P O S S I B I L I T I E S O P E N TO B E R LU T I S B E S P O K E VI U LYS SE NAR D IN SKELETON X THE S KELE TON X IN A MECHANICAL STORY A D D I T I O N TO T H E R E M A R K A B L E C O N S T R U C T I O N E XPER TI SE I N LE ATHER AND HUB LOT S M ASTERY OF STA N D S A PA R T F RO M OT H ER S K E L E TO N WATC H ES OF THE TOUR B I LLON WH ICH APPE ARS TO FLOAT I N M E TA LS AR E EN D LES S TH ESE T WO BO LD B R AN DS FOR THE EM PHATICALLY GEOM E TR IC ARCHITECTURE SPACE TH IS NE W L AUNCH IS DISTINGUISHED BY AN BOTH OF WHICH DEFINE TRENDS WITHOUT BE TR AYING OF ITS MOVEMENT FOUR INDE XES FORM AN X FR AMED ENTIRELY HAND GUILLOCH MOVEMENT AND A GR AND THE RULES OF ELEGANCE ASSERT THEIR INFLUENCE ON BY A RECTANGLE ITSELF SE T INTO THE ROUND SHAPE FEU ENAMEL DIAL MEN S FASHION WITH ORIGINALIT Y AND PERSONALIT Y OF THE CASE ALL WITH A R ARELY SEEN DEGREE OF TR ANSPARENCY

Page 25

louisvuitton com The New Tambour Horizon Our journey connected

Page 26

26 WATCH YOUR TIME DESIGN Part way between Art Nouveau and Bauhaus Art Deco developed during the same interwar period Taking its name from the Exposition Internationale des Arts D coratifs et Industriels Modernes that took place in Paris for seven months in 1925 Art Deco was initially a style of interior decorating that quickly extended into objects clothing and typography It borrowed its rigour from the Classical style and substituted rectangles geometry and vertical lines for circles The most iconic illustration would have to be the Chanel N 5 perfume bottle still admired today In watchmaking Art Deco produced rectangular cases parallel lines elegant symmetry and an expressive sobriety The Reverso by Jaeger LeCoultre as well as the Cartier Tank are entirely derived from this convention Mechanical beauty Moving further ahead in time just about anyone can close their eyes and picture the shield shaped Route 66 sign With it come images of 1950s automobiles and their conical headlamps flashing neons advertising gas stations and kitchen appliances like rockets about to lift off Originating in the United States Streamline style made a profound impression worldwide Parmigiani has used it as inspiration for its Bugatti watches So has MB F most recently for the HM9 Both also incorporate features from the Machine convention which puts the mechanical on an aesthetic pedestal Swiss artist Jean Tinguely was one of its precursors in the 1960s Its architectural symbol would be the Pompidou Centre in Paris which opened in 1977 Machines took on artistic status and I even became a part of our heritage when UNESCO added industrial sites to its world heritage list Engines glistened with chrome and cyborgs paraded across cinema screens Mechanical watchmaking was still in convalescence during the 1980s and the Machine convention was just what the doctor ordered Previously concealed inside a metal case the watch s inner workings were revealed first through a transparent back then more and more on the dial side Richard Mille which launched in 2000 is one of the brands to have revolutionised the style by putting the mechanics of its watches on show Another trend to have helped put the Swiss watch industry back on its feet is one which Nicolas Babey calls the Transfer convention Think of Jeeps complete with bull bar driven around town students wearing steel toed safety boots or factory style lockers repurposed for the living room all objects adapted from their original use not for their function but for the history values or air of authenticity they convey Examples are legion in watchmaking from Breitling pilot s watches to Panerai dive watches Even the Reverso whose pivoting case no longer serves any useful purpose We or rather Nicolas Babey could have continued this list of seven conventions with Pop Art Steampunk Futurism and Ecologism They are the spices that designers and brands sprinkle onto their watches to stimulate our appetite But remember icons are not made to order No one in theory can decide that today they will create a masterpiece Or to paraphrase Simone de Beauvoir One is not born but rather becomes an icon II III V IIII VI VII I SANTOS DE CAR TI E R SKELETON THE SANTOS I S I I I H E R M S ARCE AU 78 THE ARCE AU 78 E XH I B ITS V TISSOT HERITAGE 1936 ONE HUNDRED YE ARS AGO VII GR AND SEIKO MECHANICAL GR AND SEIKO PRE ONE OF CARTIER S ICONS IMAGINED IN 1904 FOR THE THE UNDERSTATED ELEGANT ALLURE OF AN OBJECT TISSOT WAS MAKING ITS FIRST WRIST WATCHES THE SENTS A NEW R ANGE IN ITS AP TLY NAMED ELEGANCE TR AILBL A ZING AVIATOR ALBERTO SANTOS DUMONT IT THAT TR ANSCENDS ST YLES AND ER AS IN 1978 HENRI H ER I TAG E 1936 R E I N TER P R E TS TH ES E E A R LY M O D COLLECTION A NEW CASE A NEW MANUAL WINDING WAS THE FIRST WATCH MADE SPECIFICALLY FOR THE D OR I G NY U P TU R N ED AESTH E T I C C OD ES WH EN H E ELS TIME IS SHOWN ON THE 45MM DIAL BY BREGUE T CALIBRE WITH SMALL SECONDS AND AN URUSHI L AC WRIST AF TER A 2018 MAKEOVER IT RETURNS THIS YEAR COMBINED A ROUND CASE WITH ASYMME TRICAL LUGS N U M ER A LS A R A I LROAD M I N U TE C I RC LE AN D HO L QUER D I A L C O M E TOGE THER I N A R EF I NED WATCH IN A SKELETON VERSION WITH THE ADDED INTEREST OF AN D A S LOP I NG FONT TH I S 40 M M M ODEL I N STEEL LOWED APPLE HANDS CHAR ACTERISTIC OF GR AND SEIKO SUPER LUMINOVA COMES WITH A GR AINED ANTHR ACITE DIAL FE ATURING VI LA GR ANDE CLASSIQUE DE LONGINES L A GR ANDE II PANER AI LUMINOR DUE 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC ACCIAO CRE AM COLOURED NUMER ALS AND HANDS AS WELL CL ASSIQUE DE LONGINES EMBODIES THE CL ASSICAL PRESENTED AS A CL ASSIC ALTERNATIVE WITHIN THE AS A NATUR AL BARENIA CALFSKIN STR AP ELEGANCE FOR WHICH THE BR AND WITH THE WINGED R ANGE THE LUMINOR DUE 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC COMES I I I I CHAN E L PREMI RE ROCK GOLD THE PR EM I R E HOURGL ASS LOGO IS RENOWNED THE COLLECTION IN 42MM AND 38MM DIAME TERS IT ALSO INTRODUCES ROCK WATCH DR AWS ITS INSPIR ATION FROM THE WORLD HAS WELC O M ED NU M EROUS VAR I AT I ONS S I NCE I TS A DAT E W I N D OW L I K E A L L LU M I N O R WATC H ES I T OF FASHION ITS LE ATHER INTERT WINED CHAIN WR APS L AUNC H I N 1992 I NC LUD I NG VERS I ONS W I TH B LUE FE ATURES THE BRIDGE LE VER DE VICE THAT PROTECTS ENDLESSLY AROUND THE WRIST A VARIATION OF THE DIALS AND STR APS THE WINDING CROWN FROM ACCIDENTAL SHOCKS ICONIC PREMI RE WATCH IT KEEPS TIME WITH ST YLE

Page 27

Page 28

28 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS Marine Marvels Breguet has given a new face to its Marine collection which links back to the time of Abraham Louis Breguet himself It is also the main partner of Race for Water a foundation tackling ocean pollution We think of Abraham Louis Breguet as the father of modern watchmaking a man whose most famous invention the tourbillon which he patented in 1801 is both spectacular to observe and by countering the effects of gravity instrumental to precision What many of us don t know is his contribution to France s importance as a seafaring nation In 1814 King Louis XVIII issued a royal decree appointing Breguet to the Bureau des Longitudes a scientific institution dedicated to the advancement of astronomy including its applications to navigation A year later the same Louis XVIII granted Abraham Louis Breguet the title of chronometer maker to the French Royal Navy As Breguet the brand reminds us this was the most prestigious title a horologist could hope to receive given that the very concept of marine chronometry implied scientific knowledge It also involved playing a crucial role for the country as marine chronometers were of capital importance for fleets by making it possible to calculate ships positions at sea This deep rooted heritage is represented in Breguet s Marine collection which two years ago as though to underscore the prestigious Manufacture s connection with the sea adopted a more dynamic more contemporary aesthetic Of course this being Breguet such a transformation could never be merely cosmetic The first piece in this revamped collection had to do justice to its superlative mastery of both complications and the art of guillochage or engine turning Accordingly Breguet launched its new collection with the Marine Equation Marchante 5887 After the Classique and the Tradition it was time for us to review this very important collection for Breguet who was let s not forget chronometer maker for the Royal Navy says Marc A Hayek president of Breguet The Marine 5887 features our extra thin tourbillon a hallmark of the brand in addition to a running equation of time and a perpetual calendar with power reserve This is very much an original set of complications and one I was keen to see I believe that the Marine collection more than any other must symbolise Breguet s pioneering spirit and in that respect incorporate the major technical advances by the brand We should remember that watchmaking greatly benefited from research into marine chronometers Race for Water The equation of time is one of watchmaking s most fascinating complications and also one of its rarest It indicates the difference between mean solar time the time shown on clocks and watches and true solar time which can vary over the course of the year by as much as 16 to 14 minutes depending on the sun s position Breguet has even gone as far as to incorporate an additional complexity by simultaneously indicating civil time and solar time on the same dial with two separate minute hands Following on from this stunning debut were the Marine 5517 with time and date indications the Marine Chronographe 5527 and the Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 with an alarm a second time zone and a date display In all a collection that carries on Breguet s tradition of timekeeping with a marine flavour with admirable effect As further illustration of its involvement with the sea Breguet is main partner to the Race for Water Foundation which seeks solutions to the dramatic problem of plastic waste in our seas and oceans As well as taking action to curb plastic waste on land its five year Odyssey 2017 2021 programme promotes alternative energies by demonstrating that a boat powered by a combination of solar hydrogen and kite energies can sail around the world making stopovers at islands and in coastal towns Race for Water s solution is to use high temperature pyrolysis to convert plastic waste into electricity which local communities can sell to finance the collection of plastic litter Breguet is part of the race Christophe Roulet for a better world R ACE FOR WATER SINCE LE AVING THE FRENCH TOWN OF LOR IENT IN APR I L BREGUET MARINE EQUATION MARCHANTE 5887 THE MARINE EQUATION MARCH BREGUET MARINE CHRONOGR APHE 5527 IN 1815 ABR AHAM LOUIS BREGUE T 2017 R ACE FOR WATER S BOAT HAS M ADE 16 STOP OVERS AT ISL ANDS AND ANTE RISES TO THE CHALLENGE OF SIMULTANEOUSLY DISPL AYING SOL AR TIME WAS APPOINTED CHRONOMETER MAKER TO THE FRENCH ROYAL NAV Y BREGUET COASTAL TOWNS AROUND THE WORLD POWERED BY SOL AR HYDROGEN AND AND CIVIL TIME ON THE SAME DIAL BY WAY OF T WO SEPAR ATE MINUTE HANDS COMMEMOR ATES THIS DISTINCTION WITH A NEW GENER ATION MARINE COLLEC KITE ENERGY THE E XPEDITION AIMS TO PROVE THAT THE TR ANSITION TO CLE AN THIS COMPLE XIT Y IS COMPLEMENTED BY A TOURBILLON AND A PERPE TUAL CAL TION THE CHRONOGR APHE 5527 IS THE FIRST TO BE CASED IN TITANIUM THE ENERGY IS POSSIBLE ENDAR SUPERL ATIVE MECHANISMS ARE ACCENTUATED BY THE ENGINE TURNED MINUTES COUNTER IS POSITIONED AT 3 O CLOCK NE XT TO THE HOUR COUNTER WAVE PAT TERN ON THE DIAL A SUBTLE REMINDER OF THE MARINE INSPIR ATION AT 6 O CLOCK SMALL SECONDS ARE SHOWN AT 9 O CLOCK OF THIS MAGNIFICENT TIMEPIECE WHICH IS CASED IN 950 PL ATINUM

Page 29

39 35 0 478 S 71 32 23 564 W Reconnect Montblanc 1858 Geosphere montblanc com

Page 30

30 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS The Italian Job In just twenty years Panerai has established itself as one of the top Swiss watch brands loved for the uniquely Italian feel of its big bold sport watches JE AN MARC PONTROU PANER AI CEO In Geneva earlier this year at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie SIHH watch fair Panerai CEO since April 2018 Jean Marc Pontrou set off a ripple of excitement when he announced a new partnership with Luna Rossa the Italian sailing team and Challenger of Record for the 36th America s Cup probably the most prestigious of all sailing competitions the final will be raced in 2021 The brand had longstanding sponsorship agreements on the classic regatta circuit and after these were ceased many were wondering what its next masterstroke would be That the new deal should also be sailing related is hardly a surprise Panerai is never more at home than in the water its natural element for as long as the brand has existed Established in Florence in 1860 Officine Panerai forged a reputation supplying measuring instruments to the Italian Royal Navy This led to a new mission to make dive watches for commando frogmen the now iconic Radiomir launched in the 1940s and the equally celebrated Luminor a decade later Virtually unknown outside specialist circles some twenty years ago when it became part of the Richemont Group the brand has succeeded in climbing to the top of the Swiss watchmaking tree thanks to its distinctive and immediately recognisable designs So distinctive in fact that the watches sporting credentials could almost be eclipsed by their size They are the XXL fit for the craze that has people clamouring for robust manly indestructible watches Panerai has the wind in its sails and so does Luna Rossa which has been given the honour of its own Submersible watch Its hefty 47mm diameter is balanced by the ultra lightness of the carbon used for the case another of carbon s qualities being its extreme resistance As for the dial it incorporates sailcloth from the team s AC75 monohull yacht This professional dive watch is as one might expect just the first in a series that will grow as the team races in more competitions And for Panerai these competitions translate into opportunities to offer its customers new experiences PANER AI SUBMERSIBLE MARINA MILITARE CARBOTECH tm 47 MM PANER AI S PANER AI SUBMERSIBLE LUNA ROSSA 47 MM THIS SUBMERSIBLE LUNA ROSSA PANER AI JOINS THE R ACE FOR THE AMERICA S CUP AS THE OFFICIAL SPON TIES TO THE ITALIAN NAV Y AND ITS FROGMAN COMMANDOS ARE AMONG THE IS THE FIRST WATCH TO COME OUT OF THE PARTNERSHIP BETWEEN PANER AI AND SOR OF LUNA ROSSA PANER AI IS MAKING A SERIES OF WATCHES INSPIRED BY MORE EPIC EPISODES IN WATCH M AK I NG H ISTORY TH IS NE W SUB M ERSI B LE THE CHALLENGER OF RECORD FOR THE 36TH AMERICA S CUP A DIVE WATCH THE TECHNOLOGIES AND MATERIALS USED IN THE AMERICA S CUP THE OLDEST RECONNECTS WITH THESE TALES OF ADVENTURE AS THE 33 LUCK Y OWNERS THAT IS WATER RESISTANT TO 300 METRES ITS CASE IS MADE FROM CARBOTECH SPORTS COMPE TITION IN THE MODERN WORLD BUT ALSO ONE OF THE MOST ARE OFFERED THE LIFETIME E XPERIENCE OF TR AINING WITH THE ITALIAN NAV Y S A HIGH TECH MATERIAL BASED ON CARBON FIBRE LIGHT WEIGHT WITH A HIGH ADVANCED FOR INNOVATION AND RESE ARCH COMSUBIN ELITE DIVING AND COMMANDO GROUP RESISTANCE TO SHOCKS AND CORROSION IT IS ALSO USED FOR THE HULL OF Experience required For that is the name of the game We ve decided to make experiences a part of Panerai commented JeanMarc Pontrou outside of SIHH For example the buyers of one of the limited edition watches we presented in Geneva can spend a day training with Italian Navy commandos Another limited edition offers the chance to accompany Mike Horn on an expedition to the Arctic THE LUNA ROSSA AC75 BOAT Similarly customers who acquire one of the limited editions associated with freediver and friend of the brand Guillaume N ry will join him on a dive in French Polynesia You get the picture My aim is for Panerai to be seen as a brand that provides experiences not just new products I m convinced this is the beginning of a new era for luxury brands This doesn t mean Panerai is forgetting where it comes from as Jean Marc Pontrou confirms A brand is only worth as much as its capacity to stand out from what everyone else is doing and to invent modern day stories that resonate with its customers We can do this because of Panerai s Italian identity and its huge fan following Plus of course its capacity to innovate with new materials and movements All this has to be easily understandable for the customer Complicated messages are a brand s worst enemy The brand invests heavily in its Laboratorio di Idee which employs some fifty specialists to work on innovations such as Carbotech and BMG TECH new materials that make Panerai watches even more reliable and robust It s this combination of creative innovation and iconic designs that makes Panerai an anything but ordinary brand Eric Dumatin

Page 31

TIME A HE RM S OB JECT Arceau L heure de la lune Time flies to the moon

Page 32

32 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS Renaissance Brand Italy gave us the Renaissance a flowering of art culture and science It also gave us Bvlgari the epitome of Italian style and originality At the time of the Renaissance Italy s famous Rinascimento an individual could be a scholar a poet and a humanist as was the great Petrarch Or an artist an architect a musician and a philosopher like the eternal Leonardo da Vinci At the time of the Renaissance an individual could be steeped in science and culture an admirer of poetry and botany and legitimately aspire to master as much of the knowledge of that period as was humanly possible What finer inspiration could Bvlgari wish for Established in Rome in 1884 it wears the badge of its origins with pride Our capacity to combine avant garde Italian design with Swiss mechanical expertise is what I refer to as Bvlgari s Rinascimento declares Chief Executive Jean Christophe Babin It s truly a revolution in both design and technology Or to use a different metaphor a new current in the peaceful river of watchmaking history to be a showcase for Bvlgari s expertise in every register as well as the perfect symbol of this coming together of design and technology Immediately recognisable by its facetted profile not entirely round not entirely square the Octo Finissimo reflects a complete command of complex timekeeping mechanisms and state of the art materials The two models released last year leave us in no doubt First the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater which as well as claiming the title of the thinnest repeater watch in the world at 6 85mm high also shattered convention with a Carbon Thin Ply case that offers astonishing acoustic properties A marvel that weighs just 47 grams on the wrist To illustrate his words Babin immediately points to the Octo Finissimo collection some would say epic given its multiple distinctions in the category of ultra thin watch the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic established a fifth world record this year The range has proved A golden beauty Equally marvellous the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic set a double record in 2018 for the thinnest automatic watch and the thinnest tourbillon The BVL 288 movement measures 1 95mm thick Total height with the case is 3 95mm Clearly one good thing leads to another as this year as mentioned the brand has added another record to its existing tally this time for a dualtime chronograph Since the Octo Finissimo collection was launched in 2014 it has picked up no fewer than thirty awards an unprecedented number in an industry that has been quick to follow suit by making the ultrathin watch a new canvas for elegance and mechanical prowess And when it comes to elegance the Italian firm which need we be reminded began life as a jeweller knows the way to a woman s heart particularly with such a weapon of mass seduction as the gem encrusted Serpenti Seduttori A tribute to the original Serpenti an icon of the brand from the moment it first appeared in the late 1940s the Seduttori iteration introduces a slightly more tapered case whose form has been adapted to attach the supple bracelet that replaces the Tubogas The characteristic drop shape is untouched with a rubellite set into the crown Gold is the natural choice for this Serpenti whether yellow pink or white in addition to a diamond paved version These dazzling interpretations begin a new chapter in the history of a collection that makes time precious and sheds golden light on life s most beautiful moments What more fitting illustration of Bvlgari s Rinascimento where the classical canon becomes a source of inspiration and stunning beauty Christophe Roulet BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO CHRONOGR APH GMT AUTOMATIC PRESENTING YE T I TS L AU N C H U N D ER T H E BV LG A R I N A M E I N 2010 O R I G I N A L LY I M AG I N ED BY BVLGARI SERPENTI SEDUT TORI BVLGARI S SERPENTI WATCHES ARE RECOGNIS ANOTHER E XPLOIT FROM THE OCTO FINISSIMO WHICH CL AIMS A FIF TH WORLD GENTA THE M ANUFACTURE THAT WAS TAKEN OVER BY BVLGAR I IN 2000 THE ABLE AT A GL ANCE FOR THEIR DISTINCTIVELY SHAPED CASE THE MOST RECENT R EC O R D T H I S T I M E F O R T H E T H I N N EST E V ER AU TO M AT I C C H RO N OG R A P H COLLECTION WAS JOINED FIRST BY THE OCTO FINISSIMO LINE IN 2014 THEN BY ITER ATION THE SERPENTI SEDUT TORI INTRODUCES A MORE TAPERED CURVE WITH A DUAL TI M E ZONE THE OCTO LI NE IS A PER FECT FUS ION OF DES IGN THE OCTO ROMA IN 2017 TOGE THER THE Y ARE A SHOWCASE FOR THE BR AND S THE NEW FLE XIBLE BR ACELE T IS INSPIRED BY THE ORIGINAL SERPENTI WHILE A N D T EC H N O LO GY R EF I N E M EN T A N D DA R I N G TO B E D I F F ER EN T N E I T H ER CRE ATIVIT Y AND INNOVATION FOR ITS COUNTLESS FANS THE Y ALRE ADY R ANK THE RUBELLITE SE T IN THE CROWN IS A REM INDER OF THE ROMAN BR AND S ROUND NOR SQUARE THE OCTO HAS FOLLOWED ITS OWN RULES E VER SINCE AS ICONS ORIGINS AS A JEWELLER THE COLLECTION INCLUDES PINK GOLD YELLOW GOLD AND WHITE GOLD AS WELL AS GEM SE T VERSIONS

Page 33

10 08am on Fifth Avenue N 40 43 53 1 W 73 59 49 1 Freak Collection Starting at EUR 21 000

Page 34

Page 35

ELEGANCE WATCH YOUR TIME 35 Concours d l gance o Paloma Recio director R E magazine Muses join with me a slender lass to sing For all ye Ladies take in hand ye make a pretty thing Theocritus 310 250 BC Christian Dior made the subtle observation that elegance is the right combination of simplicity and distinction Watchmaking is no exception While there may be no accounting for taste the fact remains that without balanced proportions without judicious choices of texture shape and colour elegance is impossible Which isn t as simple as it may seem In watchmaking elegance is not just a synonym for beauty It requires a skill and expertise that only a handful of brands possess brands which have devoted entire collections to this quest The Calatrava Patek Philippe the Patrimony Vacheron Constantin the Altiplano Piaget the Classique Breguet and the L U C Chopard all bear the hallmark of ultimate elegance and refinement E r i c Va l l i All these watches are perfectly round a shape which in watchmaking is considered the epitome of classicism and elegance But what of the Reverso by Jaeger LeCoultre with its famous rectangular pivoting case Or Patek Philippe s Gondolo a tip of the hat to Art Deco Or Cartier s Tank the first watch to be inspired by a military vehicle No one would dare suggest that they are anything less than elegant They are even for different reasons unanimously regarded as true classics Because despite their originality they respect certain ground rules No superfluous ornamentation no form without function and a dial that is easy to read Practical becomes elegant Beautiful even ROLE X OYSTER PERPETUAL COSMOGR APH DAY TONA ROLE X PRESENTS A SPECTACUL AR GEM SE T VERSION OF THE OYSTER PERPE TUAL COSMOGR APH DAY TONA INTRODUCED IN 1963 IT MADE ITS NAME ON MOTOR R ACING CIRCUITS BEFORE TR ANSFORMING INTO THIS SCINTILL ATING VERSION FOR L ADIES IN 18K E VEROSE GOLD A GR ADATION OF R AINBOW COLOURED SAPPHIRES REPL ACES THE TACHYME TER SCALE ON THE BE ZEL IN ADDITION 56 BRILLIANT CUT DIAMONDS DA ZZLE ON THE LUGS AND THE CROWN GUARD SHOWING AN EYE FOR DE TAIL THE BAGUE T TE CUT SAPPHIRE HOUR MARKERS ARE THE SAME COLOUR AS THEIR OPPOSITE NUMBER ON THE BE ZEL THE MOVEMENT IS THE 4130 AUTOMATIC CHRONOGR APH CALIBRE Business with pleasure However elegant a watch cannot disregard criteria such as dimensions clarity legibility and more importantly balanced ergonomic proportions When a watch meets all these criteria it becomes an ideal to which others aspire As in art these creations stand out for their capacity to withstand the ravages of time and rise above transient trends and fashions to become objects of natural unquestionable beauty Objects intended to be discreet and comfortable as the couturier Yves Saint Laurent hinted when he asked whether elegance wasn t simply to forget what one is wearing

Page 36

36 WATCH YOUR TIME Travelling in Style When in 1949 Pierre Arpels nephew of Estelle Arpels imagined a watch he made it the epitome of discretion and refinement traits it shared with its namesake and creator The original was offered to a select circle of close friends and family only It wasn t until 1967 that the Pierre Arpels watch officially joined the Van Cleef Arpels collection The symbol of refinement and sobriety subsequent variations have each shown the same acute sense of elegance The latest to date the Pierre Arpels Heure d ici Heure d ailleurs is another fitting tribute to its creator for Pierre Arpels wasn t just a man of exquisite taste he also had a flair for business and travelled the world as a representative of the family firm The idea of extending the Pierre Arpels collection with a watch inspired by travel thus came naturally Van Cleef Arpels insisted that the dual time display be easy to read but also unobtrusive in keeping with the overall aesthetic of the collection This was achieved thanks to two jumping hours combined with retrograde minutes for an impressively legible result Local time l heure d ici literally time here is read in an aperture at 11 o clock A second aperture diagonally opposite at 5 o clock displays the second time zone l heure d ailleurs time elsewhere These two indications simultaneously jump thanks to a sector that synchronises the two hour discs with the retrograde minute hand which having climbed to 60 minutes snaps back to its initial position Van Cleef Arpels turned to Agenhor Atelier Genevois d Horlogerie to devise this automatic movement One of the biggest challenges aside from developing the time zone complication was to create a calibre that would fit inside the slim Pierre Arpels case Agenhor resolved this with a bidirectional micro rotor in platinum A sapphire caseback allows a clear view of the movement including the snailing on the bridges and the Van Cleef Arpels hallmark This demonstration of expertise echoes the signature aesthetics on the dial Both here and elsewhere elegance and refinement prevail C R Without going as far as to forget about the watch on one s wrist elegance and simplicity do indeed go hand in hand And by simplicity we mean Leonardo da Vinci s ultimate sophistication not some dull thing empty of substance It is precisely this concept this quest for ultimate sophistication that produces watches of quiet beauty but also great character A fine example of this sobriety Patek Philippe s Calatrava Ref 5227 is seen as the Geneva manufacture s most classic watch Its distinctive feature a hinged officer s style cover that protects the sapphire caseback As an ultimate refinement the hinge is rendered invisible While most often associated with time only wristwatches elegance can also express itself in complications Timepieces that show moon phases or a second time zone others that incorporate a minute repeater or a tourbillon can just as easily exude elegance At once simple and complicated this exercise in style is clearly evident in the Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Automatique 5367 that Breguet presented last year This watch with its pristine Grand Feu enamel dial revisits Abraham Louis Breguet s most famous invention with remarkable simplicity The information on the dial is reduced to the essen tial hours and minutes thus giving the mechanism the attention it deserves Replete with technical innovation this automatic tourbillon owes its elegance to a wafer thin profile courtesy of a 3mm high movement inside a case that is barely 7 45mm thick Slender sophistication Naturally elegant such extra thin watches are a feat of technique as complex to manufacture as they are slim They are a horological subtility with nothing to envy the most sophisticated complications Indeed reducing the thickness height in watchmaking terms of a movement involves rethinking each component without compromising precision or reliability Ask Piaget it holds a string of world s thinnest records dating back more than 60 years While thinness has always been a point of interest for the manufacture it clinched its reputation in 1957 when it unveiled the manual winding 9P movement just 2mm high Three years later Piaget confirmed its expertise with the 12P an automatic movement which at 2 3mm thick set a new record thanks to its off centred micro rotor With credentials such as these it s hardly surprising that of its 25 extra thin movements a dozen have held or still hold a record A I II III VAN CLEEF ARPELS PIERRE ARPELS HEURE D ICI HEURE D AILLEURS VAN CLEEF AR PELS TUR NED TO AGENHOR ATELI ER GEN E VO I S D HOR LOGER I E TO DE V I SE THE AUTO M AT I C M OVEM ENT FOR THE HEUR E D I C I HEUR E D A I LLEURS ONE OF THE B IGGEST CHA LLENGES APAR T FROM DE VELOP I NG THE G M T C O M P LI CATION WAS TO CRE ATE A CALIBRE THAT WOULD FIT INSIDE THE COLLECTION S SLIM CASE AGENHOR RESOLVED THIS WITH A BIDIRECTIONAL MICRO ROTOR IN PL ATINUM WITH A L ACQUERED BLUE DECOR ATION THE SAPPHIRE BACK ALLOWS A VIEW OF THE SNAILING ON THE MOVEMENT BRIDGES AND THE VAN CLEEF ARPELS HALLMARK A FINE EX AMPLE OF THE E XPERTISE ECHOED BY THE MOTIFS ON THE DIAL SIDE IIII I BREGUET REINE DE NAPLES 8908 LIKE THE TIME I I I H U B LO T B I G BAN G PAR A BA H U B LOT IIII MONTBL ANC BOH ME MANUFACTURE PER PIECE COM M ISSIONED FROM ABR AHAM LOUIS BEC OM ES THE F I RST WATCH M A KER TO SE T A PETUAL CALENDAR THE BOH ME MANUFACTURE BREGUET BY CAROLINE MUR AT THE NEW REINE TI M EP I ECE WITH THE TURQUO ISE BR I LLIANCE PERPETUAL CALENDAR IS EQUIPPED WITH A NEW DE NAPLES 8908 IS A WATCH OF GREAT BEAUTY O F A C U P R I A N E L BA I T E E L EC T R I F Y I N G T H E I N HOUSE AUTO M AT I C PER PE TUA L CA LEN DAR CHAR ACTER AND TECHNIQUE THE AUTOMATIC B I G BA N G W I T H T H E V I B R A N T A N D I N T EN S E MOVEMENT MB 29 22 THAT INDICATES HOURS MOVEMENT WAS SPECIALLY DE VELOPED WITH COLOURS OF THE PAR A BA TOURMALINE AS AN M I NUTES AND SECONDS BY CENTR AL HANDS BREGUET S WOMEN CUSTOMERS IN MIND INDICATION OF JUST HOW R ARE A STONE THIS I N A D D I T I O N TO DAY DAT E M O N T H M O O N II PIAGET ALTIPLANO METEORITE PIAGET NEEDS IS A SINGLE PAR A BA TOURMALINE IS MINED FOR PHASE AND LE AP YE AR IN COUNTERS THERE IS NO INTRODUCTION AS A MASTER OF E XTR A THIN E VERY 10 000 DIAMONDS ALSO A DUAL TI M E FUNCTION AND A 24 HOUR MOVEMENTS OR FOR THE ORIGINALIT Y OF ITS HARDSTONE DIALS THIS YE AR IT CARR IES ON BOTH TR ADITIONS WITH THE INTRODUCTION OF THREE MODELS FE ATUR ING ME TEOR ITE DIALS INDICATOR

Page 37

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 37 Reshaping History Beauty is hardwired into a history that Cartier has been revisiting these past three years resulting in collections which emphasise elegant forms that capture the jeweller s perpetual genius for design ARNAUD CARRE Z CARTIER MARKE TING AND COMMUNICATIONS DIRECTOR We ve all heard of Generation Y The ones who grew up with the millennium They are the new face of consumption For them ownership is no longer a goal Being is more important than having Experiences and sustainable values matter more than possessions They are also the digital natives hence this shift in paradigm brings with it an almost visceral need to know what s being said online regardless of the question Like any other segment watch brands are affected by these disruptive consumption habits Now that social media take up so much of our lives it s become second nature for customers to compare before they buy says Cartier s Chief Executive Cyrille Vigneron And by that I mean everything products prices perceived quality other people s opinion Our role is to propose collections that make sense historically technically and something that is very important to Cartier aesthetically At the right price If we are true to what we know how to do then we will also be true to what the customer expects from us This new strategy introduced by Vigneron on taking up the CEO position in 2016 has seen the brand refocus on the values that have forged its strength and reputation for more than a century For the brand s watches this has meant a return to non round forms a tradition at the firm with slender elegant shapes and an emphasis on women s timepieces Its incursion into the highest realms of mechanical watchmaking still in evidence in 2017 with the extraordinarily complex Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon has gradually taken a back seat to models that are part of the brand s history as splendid today as ever We are coming back to Cartier s foundations explains Arnaud Carrez Marketing and Communications Director We re not just tapping into this legacy we re enriching it too with all the creativity of Cartier in particular through our Cartier Priv collection of limited edition interpretations of signature watches that use Cartier s expertise to bring a design to life This year s Skeleton Dual Time Zone Tonneau watch is an excellent illustration of this The 1906 version is typical of Cartier s eccentricity that has never gone out of style CARTIER BAIGNOIRE ALLONG E THE BAIGNOIRE IS A WATCH OF MANY FACES WHOSE SCULP TED SPIKES BORROW FROM CARTIER S JEWELLERY IDIOM AND SANTOS DUMONT DE CARTIER WHEN A TIMEPIECE IS THIS MODERN IN TEMPER A BORN IN PARIS IN THE L ATE 1950S ITS PERFECT OVAL UNDERWENT A TR ANS THE CLOUS DE PARIS HOBNAIL DESIGN ADDING TO THIS TACTILE APPE AL IS THE MENT AND DESIGN IT S HARD TO IMAGINE THAT IT S ACTUALLY CELEBR ATING ITS FORMATION IN 1960S SWINGING LONDON STRE TCHING ITS FORMS TO ADORN PRISTINE BE AUT Y OF A WHITE DIAL WITH ELONGATED ROMAN NUMER ALS THIS 115TH ANNIVERSARY THIS YE AR THE NEW SANTOS DUMONT WATCH HONOURS WOMEN S WRISTS WITH A MIX OF ELEGANCE AND E XTR AVAGANCE RENAMED SENSUAL AND ORIGINAL HARMONY IS COMPLE TED BY THE MANUAL WINDING THE ONE WHICH CARTIER FIRST IMAGINED IN 1904 FOR THE PIONEERING AVIATOR BAIGNOIRE ALLONG E IT CONTINUES TO PROVE THAT NOTH ING SUCCEEDS 1917 MC MECHANICAL MOVEMENT WHOSE RELIABLE TIMEKEEPING CONNOIS ALBERTO SANTOS DUMONT A CASE IN GOLD OR STEEL ROMAN NUMER ALS VIS LIKE E XCESS WHEN IN E XPERT HANDS ITS L ATEST ASSE T A PINK GOLD BE ZEL SEURS WILL ENJOY IBLE SCREWS BE ADED CROWN AND A BLUE CABOCHON CARRY ON THE LEGACY A winning strategy So what brings a customer to Cartier Arnaud Carrez answers in a flash Beautiful timeless objects The fact that Cartier began as a jeweller gives it a unique personality in watchmaking For the past three years the Parisian firm has revisited with great success the icons of a rich past watches so essentially Cartier they are already classics in their own right It all began in 2017 with the return of the Panth re a star of the 1980s Next came the Santos de Cartier designed in 1904 by Louis Cartier for his friend the dashing aviation pioneer Alberto Santos Dumont and the first watch to be made specifically for the wrist Both these models are on the menu of the year s new releases with a Panth re cuff watch and for the Santos a chronograph and a luminescent skeleton version Cartier is also introducing a new line within the Santos collection by the name of Santos Dumont These new models feature a more slimline case and a pared down dial with a high autonomy quartz movement Another model making its return to the spotlight is the Baignoire Imagined circa 1910 it fits perfectly into Cartier s design language in both its original form and the elongated Allong e version that came out of Cartier s London studio at the height of the Swinging Sixties So is Cartier back to being Cartier It s a totally winning strategy because it s coherent enthuses Arnaud Carrez It s a message we re taking into all our markets With that very special Cartier magic that makes this such a truly universal brand Eric Dumatin OF THIS TRULY CL ASSIC TIMEPIECE

Page 38

38 WATCH YOUR TIME ELEGANCE for thinness in various categories Each of these distinctions is the result of constant technical and aesthetic innovation culminating in last year s Altiplano Ultimate Concept This manual winding watch pushes every limit at 2mm thick One thing is for sure the competition to make the thinnest watch is still raging Like Piaget other brands look to extra thin movements as an expression of elegance Two years ago for the fortieth anniversary of its Calibre 240 automatic movement its thinnest Patek Philippe proposed a new Calatrava Skeleton This sophisticated timepiece crafted from pink gold proudly reveals the secrets of its 2 53mm high movement which in addition to being fully skeletonised is also decorated and engraved by hand With the case it measures a mere 6 7mm in height Bvlgari is another brand to have carved a reputation as a maker of ultra thin timepieces not least thanks to its Octo Finissimo a blend of Italian style and Swiss mechanical precision It s the model to beat with no fewer than three world s thinnest titles to its name Possibly the most impressive is that of the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic a self winding tourbillon that s a mere 3 95mm thick case included Equally slender the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater holds the record for the thinnest striking watch on the market courtesy of a 3 12 mm high manually wound movement housed inside a titanium case that s just 6 85mm high In March the brand unveiled its latest feat the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic the world s thinnest mechanical chronograph at 6 90mm thick with the case Diamonds are for ever Women s watches are natural contenders for extra thin movements and here too Piaget leads the way Indeed slenderness and sobriety are characteristic of the vast majority of its styles whether for men or for women Of course where ladies I II V timepieces are concerned elegance is often synonymous with diamonds and other precious stones Examples are legion starting with Patek Philippe and its dazzling Twenty 4 Automatic Perfectly round and imbued with classicism each version is embellished with diamonds including in steel Because as Fabrizio Buonamassa head of watch design at Bvlgari so rightly affirms luxury resides not in materials but in expertise Replace luxury with elegance and the definition is also true The dial represents the face of the watch as well as indicating each interval of time that the leading watchmakers should devote such care and attention to its appearance should therefore come as no surprise Precious semi precious and hard stones such as lapis lazuli turquoise and malachite are frequently used to bring a touch of sophistication to a dial Piaget has been doing just that to great effect since the 1970s Its recent collections are filled with boldly colourful dials such as opaque ruby for the Altiplano or the malachite or turquoise dials of the Limelight Gala matched by equally vibrant straps Gemstones are just one of the countless materials and techniques employed to bring elegance to a watch s dial Proving that creativity has no limit brands make use of marquetry mosaic lacquer and enamel but also delicate silks and taffetas intricate gold lace even feathers and on Dior s Grand Bal watches the wings of scarab beetles These one of a kind creations feature Dior s calibre invers which brings the winding rotor to the dial side where its to and fro movement imitates the swishing of a ballgown and are the ultimate expression of sophistication in a lady s watch Then there is ceramic made precious by Chanel and its J12 and now one of the industry s most sought after materials both for men s and women s timepieces Whichever form it takes elegance is for all time III VI IIII VII I F R D R I Q U E CO N S TA N T CL ASS I C ART D CO I I I VA N C L E E F A R P E L S P R I M R O S E S EC R E T V CHANEL BOY FRIEND N O T WEED THE OCTAGONAL V I I LOU I S V U IT TON VOYAGER FLYING TOURBILLON INSPIRED BY THE 1920S AND ITS SOCIET Y GATHERINGS CELEBR ATING FEM ININIT Y AND YOUTH E ACH OF THE SHAPE OF THE BOY FRIEND IS ANCHORED IN CHANEL LOUIS VUIT TON HAS CHOSEN A TOURBILLON ESCAPE THE ART DECO COLLECTION ADORNS THE WR IST OF WH I TE D I A M ON DS AN D SAPPH I R ES I N N UANC ES OF WATC H M A K I NG W I TH I TS SO B ER R EF I N ED D ES I G N MENT FOR THIS HAUTE HORLOGERIE WATCH THAT CAN THE M ODER N WO M AN W I TH T I M ELESS BE AUT Y THE P I N K ON THE PR I M ROSE SECR E T WATCH HAS B EEN AND POWERFUL LINES THIS STEEL VERSION WITH DATE BE WORN JUST AS E ASILY BY MEN AS BY WOMEN MORE D E L I CAT E OVA L O F T H E CAS E AC C E N T UAT E S T H E M E T I C U LO U S LY S E T TO R EC R E AT E T H E R O U N D E D DISPL AY A LIMITED EDITION OF 1 000 PIECES FEATURES TH A N T WO C EN T U R I ES A F TER I TS I N V EN T I O N TH I S ME TICULOUS GUILLOCH DECOR ATION IN THE CENTRE PE TALS OF A RE AL PRIMROSE GENTLE PRESSURE ON A GREY T WEED PAT TERN ON ITS DIAL ICONIC COMPLICATION IS STILL RIGHTLY CONSIDERED OF THE MOTHER OF PE AR L D IAL D IAMOND I NDE XES ONE OF THE PE TALS UNCOVERS THE HIDDEN DIAL VI R ICHAR D M ILLE RM 71 01 TALISMAN AS ULTR A A DEMONSTR ATION OF A WATCHMAKER S SKILL A N D RO M A N N U M ER A L S A R E A R E M I N D ER O F T H E IIII PANTH RE DE CARTIER CUFF WATCH MINIATURE F E M I N I N E AS T H E Y A R E T H E R M 71 01 TA L I S M A N COLLECTION S VINTAGE INSPIR ATION S I Z E B U T M A X I M U M I M PAC T F O R T H I S S T U N N I N G WATCHES LACK NONE OF THE FORCE AND ROBUSTNESS I I U LYS S E N A R D I N CL ASSICO JADE M OTH ER O F ITER ATION OF THE ICONIC PANTH RE DE CARTIER THE OF ANY OTH ER R I C H AR D M I L LE WATC H P ROOF OF PE AR L AND PREC IOUS STONES BR I NG I RRES ISTI B LE F LU I D C U FF B R AC ELE T I S C O M P OS ED OF S ENSUA L T H E B R A N D S C O M M I T M EN T TO H I G H M EC H A N I C S GL AMOUR TO ULYSSE NARDIN S CL ASSICO JADE TEN Y E L LOW G O L D L I N KS S O M E L AC Q U E R E D T H E I R THE AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT IS ITS EIGHTH IN HOUSE D I A M O N DS T R AC E A D E L I CAT E WAV E AC ROS S T H E SH I M M ER IS ECHOED ON THE OFFSE T D IAL WHOSE CALIBRE AND ITS FIRST TOURBILLON LOWER LEF T QUARTER OF THE DIAL WHILE A FURTHER BL ACK L ACQUER SPOTS IMITATE THOSE OF A CERTAIN 76 DIAMONDS CIRCLE THE STEEL BE ZEL PANTHER

Page 39

Page 40

Page 41

VINTAGE WATCH YOUR TIME 41 In Love with Vintage o Christophe Roulet Science has made us gods even before we deserve to be men Jean Rostand 1894 1977 The vintage watch trend has grown around the professional watches of the post war years a golden era that brands are happy to revive Vintage it s the horological equivalent of the philosopher s stone turning everything it labels into gold Maybe because it takes us back to a pre digital era when the world hadn t yet been reduced to a global village An era when watchmakers used a slide rule to make calculations and the resulting product was a functional practical piece of mechanics always mechanics that sold itself without the aid of an elaborate marketing message or celebrity ambassador to give it substance Great I hear you say but why worry about the watches our grandfathers wore when the industry has made such giant leaps be it in production methods or in ultra light ultra resistant materials Well it all comes down to values and the values that prevailed until the end of the 2000s a decade that ended in recession have taken a beating Particularly among millennials who are now the main demographic driving consumption E r i c Va l l i A new means of expression This has led to a paradigm shift among a population that blames the buy buy buy mentality for much of what s wrong in the world today A Booz Company study of young generations revealed the emergence of a new customer who is more pragmatic more rational and more cautious about spending above a certain price level In another survey this time by the Boston Consulting Group eight out of ten respondents believed a higher price didn t automatically imply better quality So how much does a watch cost At last year s Grand Prix d Horlogerie de Gen ve a competition frequently referred to as the Oscars of watch SANTOS DE CARTIER THE SANTOS IS INGR AINED IN CARTIER S HISTORY DESIGNED BY LOUIS CARTIER IN 1904 FOR HIS FRIEND ALBERTO SANTOS DUMONT THE DAREDE VIL AVIATION PIONEER IT WAS THE FIRST PURPOSE MADE WRIST WATCH THIS UPDATED VERSION CONSERVES THE SANTOS SIGNATURE SQUARE SHAPE AND THE EIGHT SCREWS ON THE BE ZEL BUT NOW BENEFITS FROM THE PATENTED QUICKSWITCH SYSTEM FOR SWAPPING BE T WEEN A ME TAL BR ACELE T AND A LE ATHER STR AP THIS USEFUL TECHNOLOGY IS JOINED BY THE SMARTLINK SYSTEM SOME LINKS HAVE A TINY BUT TON ON THEIR SIDE WHICH WHEN PRESSED UNL ATCHES THE AT TACHMENT BAR SO THEY CAN BE REMOVED OR ADDED AS REQUIRED making the sixteen winners across the different categories averaged a price tag of just under 230 000 Granted these are all exceptional pieces and recognised as such by a knowledgeable audience of collectors but beyond such considerations and with all due respect there is clearly room for a far more affordable offering Which is precisely where vintage comes in driven by brands that know watchmaking is a tradition with more ways to express itself than elaborate grand complication mechanisms inside gold cases lavished with diamonds

Page 42

42 WATCH YOUR TIME Within this new values system consumers are more attuned to authenticity with a marked preference for brands that are clear about where they stand on environmental and social issues Accordingly Chopard took the brave decision last year to buy only ethically sourced gold for its foundry In a similar vein in mid 2018 the Richemont group launched Baume a new brand that emphasises environmental concerns by using upcycled and recyclable materials as well as promoting sustainable development and a circular economy through zero inventory and short supply chains Production also rules out mined and animal based materials in an effort towards greater social responsibility All these factors are subsumed into a single overriding condition that the finished product delivers on perceived value Flying High For the true vintage watch fan the one and only have tohave it watch of 2018 was the Rolex GMT Master II as Michael Stockton a vintage specialist and contributor to several online publications recently remarked The GMT Master II has been hot for a couple years but it reached mega status this year perhaps due to the return of a stainless steel Pepsi model that debuted at Baselworld 2018 Put simply it s the pilot s watch that gets hearts pounding Launched in 1955 the Oyster Perpetual GMT Master witnessed the rapid expansion of intercontinental travel in the latter half of the 20th century says Rolex It even became the official watch of Pan American World Airways Pan Am the most prominent intercontinental airline at the time In 1959 a major event marked the partnership the first nonstop Pan Am Jet Clipper flight from New York to Moscow The captain was wearing a GMT Master which he used as a navigation aid during the flight A genuine tool watch the GMT Master has continued to evolve perhaps most notably in 1982 when Rolex fitted it with a new movement that allows the hour hand to be set independently from the minute hand and 24 hour hand This marked the introduction of the GMT Master II The next milestone came in 2018 with the launch of an Oystersteel model in a slightly modified case mounted on a five link Jubilee bracelet The bidirectional rotating bezel features a 24 hour graduated Cerachrom insert in red and blue ceramic In a word a fresh take on the already highly desirable Pepsi All three versions are driven by the new generation calibre 3285 ten patents were filed during its development As previously a reference time or another time zone is shown by the additional 24 hour hand and local time by the conventional time display C R What goes around Of course storytelling works best when grounded in truth Brand narratives that aren t quite rooted in reality will be rapidly sanctioned by a community that lives online where information travels at the speed of light or a fibre connection It s a mindset reflected in the upsurge of interest in pre owned watches a mar ket that offers a second lease on life to models from an era not yet concerned with sustainable development but characterised by watches that did their job impeccably without the bells and whistles and at the right price As the Fondation Haute Horlogerie explains in its 2018 survey on trends in the watch industry from virtually inexistent in the 1990s the second hand watch market is worth an estimated US 5 billion a year in revenue Nor is there any sign of the tide turning Specialist sites are mushrooming online proposing an array of watches that no conventional retailer could hope to match Some industry observers suggest that in the medium term sales of pre owned watches could exceed sales of new watches prompting the likes of Richard Mille Audemars Piguet and F P Journe to position themselves on this market Staying on the sidelines of this growing appreciation for vintage would make no business sense particularly for brands that boast a century or more of tradition and a back catalogue filled with models that originated back in the day when retailers were packing their displays with professional watches the kind that had served divers explorers engineers or members of the A I II III IIII ROLE X OYSTER PERPETUAL GMT MASTER II I N 2018 RO LE X E X TENDED ITS G M T I ZENITH PILOT TON UP ZENITH ROUNDS OUT EXCEPTIONAL OBJECT THAT HE WOULD WANT TO IIII ALPINA ALPINER INSPIRED BY AUTOMATIC MASTER II R ANGE WITH A VERSION IN OYSTERSTEEL WITH A BIDIRECTIONAL ROTATA T H E R E T RO S P O R T I N G M OO D O F I TS P I LOT OWN THE STARTING POINT FOR THIS FR AGMENT A L P I N E R S F R O M T H E 19 5 0 S T H E C O N T E M BLE BE ZEL AND A 24 HOUR GR ADUATED T WO COLOUR CER ACHROM INSERT IN RED COLLECTION WITH A NEW ALL BLACK RENDITION WATCH WAS THE ORIGINAL 1963 CARRER A P OR ARY A LP I N ER R ANG E I S A M IX OF C LE AN AND BLUE CER AMIC THE OYSTER CASE WHOSE LUGS AND SIDES ARE REDESIGNED MADE FOR THE MODERN ADVENTURER WHETHER III O CT O SOMETIMES LINES AND RELIAB LE CALI BRES THE PERFECT IS FIT TED ON A FIVE LINK JUBILEE BR ACELE T JOINING IT WERE T WO NE W MODELS TAKING TO THE SKIES OR BURNING RUBBER ON S I M P L E CA N B E H A R D ER TO AC H I E V E T H A N I L LU S T R AT I O N T H I S M O D E L F E AT U R E S T H E IN OYSTERSTEEL AND E VEROSE GOLD ALL THREE ARE POWERED BY CALIBRE 3285 THE ROAD ZEN I TH P I LOT WATCHES CAP TUR E COMPLICATED BUT BVLGARI HAS RISEN TO THE QUALITIES E VERY ACTIVE GUY WANTS FROM A A NE W GENER ATION MOVEM ENT FUNCTIONS ARE UNCHANGED WITH HOM E TI M E THE THRILL SEEKING SPIRIT OF THESE INTREPID CHA LLENGE WI TH A SOF TER VERS ION OF I TS WATC H A N T I M AG N E T I C P ROT EC T I O N A N T I SHOWN BY AN ADDITIONAL 24 HOUR HAND AND A SECOND TIME ZONE LOCAL TIME PIONEERS OCTO CASE THE 110 FACE TS OF THE ORIGINAL SHOCK PROTECTION WATER RESISTANCE AND BY A TR ADITIONAL DISPL AY II TAG HEUER CARRER A FR AGMENT FUJIWAR A HAVE BEEN REDUCED TO 58 GIVING THE OCTO A STURDY STAINLESS STEEL CASE H I ROSH I FUJ IWAR A DES IGNER AND FOUNDER ROMA ITS OWN DISTINCTIVE ST YLE IN A 41M M OF THE FR AGMENT BR AND SE T ABOUT HIS COL STEEL CASE L ABOR ATION WITH TAG HEUER AS HE DOES ALL HIS PROJECTS WITH THE AIM OF CRE ATING AN BVLGARI ROMA

Page 43

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 43 Sweet Treats Richard Mille s Bonbon watches are quite literally wrist candy The collection a huge surprise from this high mech brand was designed by C cile Guenat who already made an impression with the RM 71 01 Talisman Back in 1961 Sweets For My Sweet put The Drifters into the R B top ten Richard Mille has taken this message to heart with its latest Bonbon watches in ten limited editions It s a collection no one was expecting from a brand more readily associated with world class athletes advanced mechanisms and hightech materials and the subject of gentle mockery in certain quarters when it was unveiled at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva last January How wrong they were The Bonbon collection is now being hailed for its huge originality uncompromising mechanical solutions and use of innovative materials to inject some much needed fun into an often right thinking industry Mille The first tourbillon to be put through its paces by a world class athlete Richard Mille again The first watch with a cable suspended movement for ultimate shock protection Still Richard Mille So when a brand with these credentials decides to dip into the candy jar best take it seriously Deco and African art that positioned Richard Mille firmly in the women s watch segment Her follow up project for the brand is perhaps more whimsical but certainly no less demanding from a technical perspective Richard Mille s candy themed collection is typical of a brand that has never ceased to impress with products at the cutting edge of technology and innovation thanks to which it maintains a growth rate of 15 per year We may be a young brand no one has more technical experience than us declares Mille himself who with friend Dominique Guenat established the brand in 2001 The world s lightest mechanical watch at 18 83 grams strap included That was Richard High tech meets design The Bonbon collection breaks down into ten limited editions of 30 pieces each shared between two lines the Sweets line for the Lollipop Liquorice Cupcake and Marshmallow watches and the Fruit line whose six flavours range from Litchi to Blueberry with Lemon Kiwi Cherry and Strawberry in between Just saying bonbon is enough to make you smile laughs C cile Guenat who imagined the collection Sweets are for pleasure sweets are for sharing The collection was an opportunity to have fun to become a child again It s disruptive stylish humorous and creative The brand is serious about watchmaking but also dares to go its own way and this collection which took eighteen months to bring to fruition is typical of that This isn t the first time Guenat has made her mark as a designer She is behind last year s RM 71 01 Talisman a fantastic blend of Art Without going into detail the RM 07 03 Myrtille Blueberry gives an idea of the various technologies and decorative techniques used Four swirly lollipops two gummy ribbons and two sugar canes share the dial Each sweet is painted in acrylic and lacquered by hand For an even more lifelike appearance powdered enamel and the fine sand used in hourglasses are combined to create the impression of a sugar coating The bezel is made from Carbon TPT a superposition of hundreds of carbon filaments which are compiled on a machine to modify the orientation of the fibres between layers After firing this Carbon TPT is sliced open to reveal random patterns The caseback is in Quartz TPT whose turquoise shade is a new colour that took a full year to develop As for the caseband it uses a gradient of both materials allowing a gradual colour transition between the bezel and the caseback Inside is the CRMA2 skeleton movement A sweet treat Christophe Roulet indeed RICHARD MILLE RM 07 03 BLUEBERRY LISTENING TO C CILE GUENAT CRE ATIVE RICHARD MILLE RM 16 01 LIQUORICE THE SMOOTH APPE AR ANCE OF THE GIANT RICHARD MILLE RM 16 01 STR AWBERRY THE LOLLIPOPS SUGAR CANES AND DIRECTOR THE IDE A FOR THE BONBON COLLECTION CAME ALMOST BY ITSELF ROLL OF LIQUORICE ACHIEVED BY APPLYING A BL ACK CHROME COATING AF TER OTHER CANDIES ON THE BONBON WATCHES ARE MACHINED FROM SHEE TS OF IT OCCURRED TO ME THAT THE CROWN ON THE RM 07 01 LOOKED LIKE A PIECE STAMPING FROM A BLOCK OF TITANIUM SUGGESTS THE CARNAUBA WA X THAT TITANIUM THEN HAND PAINTED IN ACRYLIC TO RECRE ATE THE BRIGHTNESS AND OF CANDY AND THE CASE OF THE RM 016 REMINDED ME OF LIQUORICE WE ALSO TR AD ITIONALLY COVERS TH IS D ISTINCTIVELY FL AVOURED SWEE T B L AC K IN TE X TURE OF A SUGAR COATING IN MOUTHWATER ING COLOUR E ACH M IN IA WANTED TO RE VISIT THE E XISTING COLLECTIONS IN A FUN WAY E ACH OF THE WATCHMAKING USUALLY SERVES TO HIGHLIGHT A TECHNICAL COMPLE XIT Y TURE IS SE T INTO THE OPENWORKED DIAL FIRMLY SECURED ON SANDBL ASTED 16 BONBON WATCHES HAS ITS OWN THEME AND DECOR ATION HERE IT MAKES OUR TASTEBUDS TINGLE HAND CHAMFERED TITANIUM PL ATES

Page 44

44 WATCH YOUR TIME VINTAGE armed forces on their toughest missions What began as a backlash against hyperconsumption a way out of a throwaway society grew into a movement for more meaningful everyday items including watches Here suddenly was an object built not just to serve a purpose but to last possibly a lifetime and even several lifetimes As well as their emotional appeal these vintage watches had been designed as instruments and as such incorporated only useful complications at reasonable prices Not to mention highly desirable qualities of robustness reliability and precision Glory days Brands have tapped into the trend in various ways First off they scoured the archives for styles that had disappeared at the height of their fame and which needed nothing more than a few mechanical tweaks to become newly desirable TAG Heuer did exactly that with its Autavia a motoring chronograph from 1962 So did Girard Perregaux which successfully relaunched its Laureato originally released in 1972 and now a full fledged collection Then there s Vacheron Constantin which dusted off a 1956 design for last year s retro contemporary and aptly named FiftySix which lines up multiple functions and since this year a fashionable blue dial On the subject of colours the vintage trend has spawned a revival in certain materials Bronze is a particular favourite for its rugged appeal and the fact it develops a pleasing patina with age Panerai was first to put it on our most wanted list on the Submersible Since then we ve seen a plethora of bronze cased vintage watches including at Tudor Montblanc Zenith and IWC I Next came the brands that earned their stripes on the battlefield such as Hamilton or Breguet or underwater Blancpain and Panerai for example or in the air like IWC and Breitling When they weren t strapped to the wrist of intrepid explorers such as Rolex or world class athletes like Jaeger LeCoultre These are the heroic watches whose name alone evokes bravery and human endeavour Omega is another example Between 1940 and 1945 it supplied the British Ministry of Defence with over 110 000 watches that were issued to airmen in the Royal Air Force and to other branches of the military After the Second World War in 1948 the brand issued a Seamaster for civilian use one that was just as robust but with even greater water resistance than its military counterpart Omega marked the Seamaster s 70th anniversary in 2018 with two limited editions both true to the inaugural models in style Elsewhere Zenith remembered it had crossed the English Channel with Louis Bl riot and that it had trademarked the word Pilot for watches early last century Enter the Pilot Type 20 whose deliciously retro design would prove a smash hit including the bronze version In a similar vein last year the brand revived its Cronometro Tipo CP 2 Better known to many as the Cairelli Zenith made some 2 500 for the Italian air force during the 1960s So there you have it Whether retro designs or historical legitimacy trusty mechanisms or epic narratives vintage ticks all the boxes From collector s quirk to mass addiction it was only a matter of time II V III IIII VI VII I AU D E M A R S P I G U E T R OYAL OAK S ELF WINDING I I I VAC H E R O N CO N S TA N T I N FIF T YS IX COMP LE TE V CHANEL J12 UNTITLED THE WATCHMAKING WORLD V I I ANON I MO NAUTILO AF TER THE I NTRODUCTI ON S U B T L E N E W D E TA I L S H AV E B EEN A D D ED TO T H E CALENDAR L AUNC H ED I N 2018 AT TH E LEG EN DARY SAT U P A N D TO O K N OT E I N 20 0 0 W H E N C H A N E L I N 2018 O F T H E M O R E C L AS S I C U R BA N EP U R ATO B LUE D IAL OF TH IS 41M M AUTOM ATIC ROYAL OAK I N A B B E Y R OA D S T U D I O S I N LO N D O N T H E F I F T YS I X L AUNCHED THE FIRST WATCH ENTIRELY IN CER AM IC R ANGE ANONIMO IS GIVING ITS NAUTILO DIVE WATCH STAIN LESS STEEL IN THE FOR M OF WIDER INDE XES RE VIS ITS ONE OF THE BR AND S ICONS FROM YOU TH E J12 A U N I S E X 3 8 M M I N D I A M E TER WAS F I RST SOF TER CURVES STI LL WITH THE SAM E TECHN ICAL A PRINTED MINUTE TR ACK AROUND THE EDGE AND A GUESSED IT 1956 THE COLLECTION NOW GE TS THE PRESENTED IN BL ACK FOLLOWED THREE YE ARS L ATER PER FOR M ANCE THE V I NTAGE VERS ION C O M ES I N A DATE WI NDOW THAT S FURTHER FROM THE CENTRE BLUE DIAL TRE ATMENT IN A PE TROL SHADE THAT WAS BY WHITE SINCE THEN IT S LENT ITSELF TO MULTIPLE NEW 42MM DIAME TER WITH A BLUE DIAL WHAT HASN T CHANGED I S THE C L ASS I C G R AN DE SPECIALLY CRE ATED FOR THE COLLECTION VERSIONS INCLUDING THIS ONE SHOWING VARIATIONS TAPISSERIE PAT TERN I I I I M O N T B L A N C H ER I TAG E MAN U FACT U R E P U L ON THE NUMBER 12 IN GREY ON A BL ACK BACKGROUND I I PIAG ET P OLO INTRODUCED IN 1979 THE ICON IC S O G R AP H H A R K I N G B AC K TO T H E P H YS I C I A N S VI HE RM S CARR H BARENIA HERM S HAS GIVEN PIAGE T POLO ADOP TED A MORE CURVACEOUS SHAPE WATCHES THAT DOCTORS ONCE USED TO CHECK A ITS CARR H ARCHITECT S WATCH A SPORTIER FEEL I N 2016 WITH A L ARGER CASE AND A ROUND OVA L PATIENT S PULSE THIS 40MM MODEL IN STEEL IS DRIVEN WITH A NEW BL ACK OR NATUR AL BARENIA CALF STR AP BE ZEL AF TER MODELS IN STEEL THEN GOLD ONE OF BY THE IN HOUSE MB M13 21 MONOPUSHER CHRON THE PERFOR ATIONS MIRROR THE CIRCUL AR GEOMETRY THE VERSIONS L AUNCHED THIS YEAR LIVENS IT UP WITH OGR APH M OVEM ENT THE ELEG ANT DO M ED D I A L I N O F T H E D I S P L AY R ED B U R N I S H I N G M ATC H ES T H E A GREEN DIAL SALMON PINK IS LOADED WITH 1940S AND 1950S VIN SECONDS HAND THAT SWEEPS THE BL ACK OR GRE Y TAGE DE TAIL GUILLOCH AND GR AINED DIAL

Page 45

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 45 Techno vintage Two years after reviving its legendary 1960s Autavia chrono TAG Heuer is preparing a full fledged collection First off is a three hander that includes a revolutionary carbon composite balance spring In a world of tablets and smartphones a mechanical watch is a delightful throwback to simpler times By adding in a healthy dose of tradition savoir faire and prestige brands have succeeded quite admirably in creating products that appeal first and foremost to our emotions Combine this with the ongoing trend for vintage timepieces from the days when craftsmanship was held in esteem and you obtain a potent recipe for success TAG Heuer s reissue of the Autavia in 2017 showed the brand to be a master chef as it cooked up a perfect and subtle blend of old school charm and the very latest in high performance technology and it was this astute piece of marketing combined with the Autavia s built in qualities that confirmed it as a fantastic piece of machinery Worn by the greatest racing drivers of the day it joined the Carrera and the Monaco as one of Heuer s three legendary chronos filled Arabic numerals for easy legibility The ceramic bezel rotates bidirectionally while the extra large crown borrows from pilot s watches The Autavia it has to be said is no ordinary watch This chronograph whose name is a portmanteau of AUTomobile and AVIAtaion in reference to the brand s dashboard panel mounted stopwatches saw daylight in 1962 Elegant and well made it quickly proved to be a serious contender on the market and was given an unreserved welcome on Formula 1 circuits by drivers throughout the 1960s and 70s Jo Siffert was just one of these kings of speed who was won over by its performance Product endorsement was a rarity back then World first In 2017 TAG Heuer brought this icon bang up to date after an online vote to choose which of 16 Autavia from the 1960s would inspire this reissue And the winner was the 2446 MK3 a 1966 model probably better known as the Rindt after the Austrian Formula 1 world champion Jochen Rindt As it turned out this was just the beginning of the story The new Autavia proved so immensely popular that the brand has decided to turn this legendary chronograph into a complete collection The debut piece unveiled at Baselworld 2019 is a contemporary three hander which says the brand blends the legacy of the original Autavia models with a refreshed adventurous spirit and state of the art in house technology Measuring 42mm in diameter this cockpit inspired Autavia plays the nostalgia card with an old school smoky effect blue dial circled by lume The outside may be vintage the inside is cutting edge with a movement that brings the brand s avant garde technology into play Earlier this year the watch world sat up and took notice when it presented the first ever balance spring made from a carbon composite This patented invention adds a completely new dimension to this vital component the balance spring with the balance wheel regulates the movement and therefore the watch s precision Not only does the carbon composite balance spring shake up traditional watchmaking notes the brand it also improves the performance of watches fitted with the brand s chronometer certified movement Without going into too much technical detail this ultra lightweight low density material is virtually unaffected by gravity variations in temperature and shocks and is completely antimagnetic It maintains perfectly concentric oscillations for improved timekeeping performance As part of the Autavia collection this Isograph balance spring is proof Christophe Roulet that the legend lives on TAG HEUER AUTAVIA 1964 THE VERY FIRST AUTAVIA CHRONOGR APHS RELEASED TAG HEUE R AUTAVIA 42 MM THE COCKPIT INSPIRED AUTAVIA 42 M M THREE TAG HEUER PI LOTS WATCHES AND TI MERS FROM 1933 TO 1957 THIS MODEL BY H EUER I N TH E 1960S WER E P OWER ED BY A M AN UA L W I N D M OVEM ENT HAND MODEL FEATURES SUPERLUMINOVA DETAILS ON ITS SMOK Y EFFECT DIAL IS PRESENTED ON A DARK BROWN LE ATHER STR AP AND IS SUPPLIED WITH AN VAL JOUX 72 OR VAL JOUX 92 INSIDE CASES WITH A SCREW DOWN BACK AND MAKING IT PERFECTLY LEGIBLE IN ALL CONDITIONS A DATE WINDOW IS LOCATED ADDITIONAL STAINLESS STEEL BR ACELE T A PUSHBUT TON ON THE UNDERSIDE A ROTATING BE ZEL FROM THE MINUTE IT WAS L AUNCHED THIS ST YLISH WELL AT 6 O CLOCK ON THE DIAL THE CER AMIC BE ZEL ROTATES BIDIRECTIONALLY OF THE STR AP AND BR ACELET MAKES IT EASY TO SWAP OUT ONE FOR THE OTHER BUI LT CHRONO WITH ITS L ARGER THAN USUAL CASE WAS A HUGE HIT WITH AND THE ROUNDED STAINLESS STEEL CASE AND BE VELLED LUGS MIMIC THOSE TO SUIT ANY ST YLE AND ANY ADVENTURE R ACING DRIVERS OF THE AUTAVIA FROM THE 1960S THE XL CROWN TAKES INSPIR ATION FROM

Page 46

Page 47

SPORT WATCH YOUR TIME 47 All at Sea o Paolo De Vecchi His fleet which was favoured by Neptune had the wind in its sails and its fortune Pierre Corneille 1606 1684 Life on and beneath the waves played a significant role in the development of watchmaking Navigators were in need of marine chronometers of exceptional precision while explorers of the ocean s deep demanded instruments that were perfectly watertight E r i c Va l l i This opening quotation from Scene 1 Act 3 of Corneille s tragedy The Death of Pompey is a reminder that fortune favours the bold and those who take their destiny into their own hands Son of the Titan Cronus Poseidon the Greek god of the oceans who appears here under his Roman name Neptune and his brother Zeus ruled over land and sea Ancient Greek representations show him as an all powerful figure unleashing violent storms armed with a trident and attended by creatures such as dolphins tunas and hippocampus that symbolise the might of the sea It s a heroic vision shared by all those who ply the oceans embarking on adventures that require courage but also the right tools Which is where the mechanical measurement of time comes into play Early sailors reckoned their position through observations of the sun and stars which still left them largely in the hands of Fate The great scholars such as Galileo and Huygens having failed to find any convincing solutions in astronomy in 1771 the British Parliament offered a reward of 20 000 at least 1 500 000 today for such person or persons as shall discover the longitude at sea Enticed by such a colossal sum numerous amateur inventors as well as reputable scholars put forward ineffective and in some cases entirely fanciful proposals In the end it was a Lincolnshire carpenter and self taught clockmaker HUBLOT CLASSIC FUSION CHRONOGR APH ORLINSKI RED CER AMIC HUBLOT UNVEILED THE FIRST BRIGHT COLOURED CER AMIC IN 2018 AN INNOVATION THAT TOOK FOUR YE ARS TO BRING FROM CONCEP T TO INDUSTRIALISATION AND REQUIRED RE THINKING THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS THE RESULT IS A CER AMIC THAT IS HARDER THAN ANY PRE VIOUSLY SEEN HUBLOT S R D DIVISION WORKED IN TANDEM WITH THE BR AND S ME TALLURGY AND MATERIALS L ABOR ATORY TO PRODUCE A FORMUL A THAT IS PROTECTED BY MULTIPLE PATENTS RICHARD ORLINSKI IS THE BEST SELLING CONTEMPOR ARY ARTIST IN THE WORLD SINCE 2017 HE HAS BEEN ADDING HIS ANGUL AR ST YLE TO HUBLOT WATCHES LIKE HIS SCULP TURES THE CL ASSIC FUSION CHRONOGR APH ORLINSKI RED CER AMIC BOASTS THE ARTIST S TR ADEMARK THREE DIMENSIONAL SCULP TED LINES AND POLISHED FINISH John Harrison who solved the problem every ship must be equipped with a chronometer that would accurately keep the time at the point of departure By comparing this with local time during navigation captains could calculate longitude the east west position measured across the meridians The ship s exact location could then be determined by combining longitude and latitude the north south position measured by the Earth s parallels whose calculation was already known

Page 48

48 WATCH YOUR TIME Harrison s discovery would earn the valiant clockmaker albeit late in life wealth and distinction and for many decades contributed to the undisputed superiority of His Majesty s fleet which now ruled the waves with unprecedented precision But this innovation also signalled another turning point in timekeeping history Harrison s first marine clock the H1 had been a cumbersome machine weighing 70 lbs Subsequent versions grew increasingly more compact until the H4 a portable clock in fact a large watch measuring 5 inches in diameter It was this H4 which accompanied Captain James Cook on his expeditions that served as a blueprint for later devices including by such illustrious makers as Leroy Arnold or Breguet until the advent of industrial production by the likes of Hamilton in the United States or Zenith and Ulysse Nardin in Switzerland In Pursuit of the Dragon Laying the foundations In the long years before electronics and satellite positioning ships and their crews relied on these marine chronometers to bring them safely to port Generally As well as being one of the main markets for Swiss timepieces China is an endless source of inspiration for the country s watchmakers Thus Chopard has devoted its considerable talent and expertise to the L U C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl a reference to the emperor s fiveclawed dragon as it chases the sacred pearl that leads to wisdom and knowledge So as to symbolise this quest Chopard has entrusted its master engravers with depicting this fantastical creature on the 18k pink gold case This refined figurative work has been crafted using the fine line engraving technique to portray two dragons on the case middle and in the space between the lugs They chase after the sacred pearl depicted on the crown This allegory in fact represents two Tian Long dragons creatures of the sky and symbols of the soul s elevation to a state of pure consciousness The scene is completed with engraved motifs taken from traditional Chinese iconography on the dial and bezel This stunning exterior is matched by the superlative mechanism inside namely the L U C 02 15 L calibre whose precision is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute COSC Assembled from 353 parts this movement has a tourbillon regulator whose carriage carries the small seconds Furthermore a perpetual calendar displays its indications on two dials complemented by a twin aperture for the date Chopard s Quattro technology with four series coupled barrels provides this one of a kind creation with nine days of power reserve shown on the back of the case One of the most demanding quality standards for watches the Poin on de Gen ve hallmark testifies to the origin and quality of this superb timepiece For Chopard the pursuit of the C R dragon is also the pursuit of excellence they were mounted on gimbals inside a wooden box thanks to which the clock was kept in a horizontal position despite the roll and pitch of the ship and thus maintained a steady rate Such a precision instrument required a clearly legible dial whose distinctive features subsidiary dials for the seconds and power reserve Roman numerals and a railroad minute scale can be seen today for example on Ulysse Nardin wristwatches These are prestigious timepieces that belong to the specific category of sport watches Chronographs or dive watches they are by definition built to resist all kinds of pressure As well as being easy to read and protected against water seepage they must provide the precision needed to measure short intervals such as a race or monitor the length of time spent underwater Sport watches thus laid the foundations for contemporary wristwatches i e instruments that can be worn every day and will continue to provide accurate reliable timekeeping when exposed to the real life conditions their predecessors tucked safely inside a pocket had A II I III IIII CHOPARD L U C PERPETUAL T SPIRIT OF THE DR AGON AND THE PEARL THE 353 PART I RO LE X OYSTER PER PE TUAL SUBMAR INER II PATEK PHILIPPE REF 5170P 001 THE CL AS PUSHERS ON THE LEF T SIDE OF THE CASE THIS MOVEM ENT OF THE L U C PERPE TUAL T SPIR IT OF THE DR AGON AND THE PE AR L IS I NTRODUCED I N 1953 THE SUB M AR I NER WAS SIC REF 5170 MEN S CHRONOGR APH MATCHES IS A PROFESSIONAL DIVE WATCH THAT IS WATER EQUIPPED WITH A TOURBILLON REGUL ATOR WHOSE CARRIAGE CARRYING THE SMALL T H E F I R ST D I V E W R I ST WATC H W I T H WAT ER AN ELEGANT PL ATINUM CASE WITH THE OR IG RESISTANT TO 300 ME TRES SECONDS INDICATOR ROTATES ONCE A MINUTE BENE ATH ITS POLISHED STEEL BRIDGE R ES I STANCE TO A DEP TH OF 100 M E TR ES AT INALIT Y OF A B LUE B L AC K GR AD IENT SUNR AY I I I I U LYS SE NAR D IN DIVER DEEP DIVE WITH AT 6 O CLOCK COMPLEMENTING THE DISPL AY IS A PERPE TUAL CALENDAR REQUIRING HOME IN THE OCE ANS WHERE IT REMAINS AN DIAL AND BAGUE T TE DIAMONDS FOR THE HOUR TH IS DIVER DEEP DIVE ULYSSE NARDIN G IVES NO CORRECTION UNTIL THE YE AR 2100 SINCE ONLY CENTURY YE ARS DIVISIBLE BY 400 INDISPENSABLE INSTRUMENT FOR E VERY DIVER M A R K ERS T H E M A N UA L W I N D C H 29 53 5 P S US A PROFESSIONAL DIVING INSTRUMENT COM ARE LEAP YEARS MAKING 2100 A COMMON YEAR TO ENSURE PERFECT READABILIT Y OF THE SUBMARINER HAS ALSO CONQUERED IN HOUSE MOVEMENT INCORPOR ATES SIX PAT PLE TE WITH TITANIUM CROWN GUARD HELIUM THE CALENDAR INDICATIONS THEY ARE SPREAD OVER T WO DIALS ONE AT 3 O CLOCK TERR A FIRMA AS THE WATCH OF ACTION WITH A ENTED INNOVATIONS E S CA P E VA LV E A N D WAT E R R E S I S TA N C E TO FOR THE MONTH AND LE AP YE ARS AND ANOTHER AT 9 O CLOCK FOR THE DAY AND THE RUGGED ELEGANCE OF ITS OWN I I I PANE R AI SUBMERSIBLE CHRONO EDITION 1 0 0 0 M E TR ES ANOTH ER N E W FE ATU R E TH E 24 HOUR INDICATION ALONG WITH A L ARGE T WIN APERTURE DATE ROUNDING OFF GUILLAUME N RY THIS DIVE CHRONOGR APH IS RUBBER STR AP HAS AN E XPANDABLE ELEMENT THE SYMME TRY OF THE DIAL AT 12 O CLOCK DED I CATED TO PANER A I S A M BASSADOR FOR THAT ADJUSTS TO A NEOPRENE DIVING SUIT THE SE A GUILL AUME N RY THE SILHOUE T TE OF THE T WO TIMES WORLD FREEDIVING CHAMPION IS ENGR AVED ON THE CASEBACK POWERED BY THE P 9100 FLYBACK CHRONO MOVEMENT WITH

Page 49

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 49 Eternal Icon From the time of its launch in 2000 Chanel s J12 was declared the twenty first century s first iconic watch For its 19th anniversary the brand has given it a fresh look without altering its identity ARNAUD CHASTAINGT DIRECTOR CHANEL WATCH DESIGN STUDIO Prior to unveiling its J12 in 2000 Chanel s incursions into watchmaking starting in 1987 had revolved around women s timepieces that explored the brand s design language The Premi re watch for example has the same shape as Place Vend me which is also that of the N 5 perfume bottle stopper the Matelass watch borrows its quilted strap from Chanel bags The J12 was the gamechanger The watch that creative director Jacques Helleu had originally designed for himself fitted seamlessly into the couture house s world Inspired by cars and sailing sporty yet sophisticated both masculine and feminine the J12 revolutionised watchmaking with its use of ceramic a material that acquired luxe credentials thanks to Helleu s singular aesthetic Three years later just as Yin needs Yang the original black was joined by versions in white Classic contemporary universally appealing the J12 became the first icon of twenty first century watchmaking Still even an icon needs refreshing from time to time and as the J12 approached 20 Chanel entrusted Arnaud Chastaingt with the task After ten years with Cartier this graduate of Strate School of Design took the head of the Chanel Watch Creation Studio in 2013 Chastaingt was already behind timepieces that had sealed Chanel s Plus a change I first saw the J12 when it launched in 2000 as I was already paying attention to what Chanel was doing says Arnaud Chastaingt I was 20 years old and it was love at first sight I still remember that androgynous appeal and how it imposed its presence Honestly it was a revelation I d even say it s the J12 that got me interested in watches from a design perspective Here was something completely new confirmed when the white ceramic version came out in 2003 I ve always considered time measurement first and foremost in relation to style When I joined Chanel in 2013 the J12 officially became my muse At first I wouldn t allow myself any changes to Jacques Helleu s iconic creation After a while though I wanted to explore new interpretations which we did with the Mademoiselle J12 You could say I ve changed everything without changing anything Indeed today s J12 has undergone a series of subtle and discreet alterations The bezel is slimmer allowing for a wider dial opening with 40 as opposed to 30 notches The typeface for the numerals as well as the shape of the hour markers have been rethought as has the minutes track The crown is now smaller and set with a flatter ceramic cabochon The thickness of the case has been slightly increased while taking care not to interfere with the fluid contours The separate steel case back has been replaced by a monobloc ceramic construction with sapphire crystals on both sides The one and only major change is that this new morphology welcomes a new movement the 12 1 automatic calibre Developed exclusively for Chanel by Kenissi a young Swiss movement manufacturer in which the Parisian firm has a stake this robust engine is certified by the Contr le Officiel Suisse des Chronom tres COSC Its 70 hours of power reserve come courtesy of an oscillating weight incorporating a perfect circle as designed by Arnaud Chastaingt In all around 70 of the J12 s original components have been revised without altering its identity one iota Because the J12 can only ever be itself it had to evolve says Chanel Evolve without changing Eric Dumatin CHANE L J12 CALIBRE 12 1 LE AVING NO DOUBT ABOUT THE J12 S PED IGREE SMOOTH SI LHOUE T TE OUT GOES THE B I M ATER IAL CASE WITH ITS SEPAR ATE THE WOR K OF THE TE AM AT CHANEL S DESIGN STUD IO WHO WANTED IT TO BE THE WORDS AUTOM ATIC AND SWISS M ADE ARE NOW STAM PED IN CHANEL STEEL BAC K THE NE W J12 BOASTS A MONOB LOC CER AM IC CASE COM PLE TED A PERFECT C IRC LE ONE OF THE VISUAL TROPES OF CHANEL FINE WATCHES FONT WITH SWISS M ADE WR IT TEN NOT ON THE D IAL BUT ON THE FL ANGE BY A SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL BACK TO SHOW OFF THE NE W CALIBRE 12 1 AN AUTO T H E M OV E M E N T H AS C H R O N O M E T E R C E R T I F I CAT I O N F R O M T H E O F F I C I A L THE FONT FOR THE APPLIED NUM ER ALS IN CER AM IC HAS ALSO BEEN G IVEN A M ATIC MOVEM ENT DESIGNED AND DE VELOPED E XC LUSIVELY FOR CHANEL BY SWISS CHRONOM E TER TESTING INSTITUTE COSC AND DELIVERS 70 HOURS MORE SLENDER OP TI M AL FOR M THE SHAPE OF THE HANDS IS ALSO NE W A K EN I SS I A YOUNG SWI SS M ANUFACTUR E THE OPENWOR K ED OSC I LL ATI NG OF P OWER RESERVE SLIGHT INCRE ASE IN CASE TH IC KNESS IN NO WAY DE TR ACTS FROM THE J12 S W E I G H T I S I N T U N GST EN TO M A I N TA I N W I N D I N G EF F I C I EN CY I TS S H A P E I S reputation as a legitimate name in time measurement including the Boy Friend the recent Code Coco several variations on the Premi re watch as well as designs for the J12 and the Mademoiselle Priv collection We also owe him the highly praised Monsieur de Chanel the first with an in house movement that marked the brand out as a major player

Page 50

50 WATCH YOUR TIME been spared This meant for example sealing movements against moisture and humidity a mechanism s worst enemies and the no less damaging presence of dust which by clogging lubricants causes levers and gears to jam And so it was a great day in watchmaking history when at last a timepiece could be worn on the wrist without fear That day came in 1926 with the invention by Rolex of the Oyster case Its winding crown and caseback were screwed down making the case perfectly watertight Solar Power The crown and the caseback are both weak spots in a watch s construction vulnerable to all manner of infiltrations Rolex knew it had solved a problem that had dogged watchmakers for very many years and made it known by taking out a full page advert in the Daily Mail the day after Mercedes Gleitze swam the English Channel wearing a Rolex Oyster on October 7th 1927 When after fifteen hours and fifteen minutes Gleitze stepped out of the water near Dover it was still keeping perfect time The waterproof watch was born and with it a first step was taken towards the Anyone visiting Hublot s manufacturing facility in Nyon a short ride from Geneva will want to see the workshop where state of the art CNC machines cut and shape sapphire in record time By which we mean several hours given that sapphire is the hardest mineral on Earth after diamond Not that this has in any way deterred the brand which describes itself as a pioneer in shaping and colouring sapphire What s more the techniques Hublot has developed in house have slashed the cost of manufacturing sapphire components The story begins in 2016 when Hublot embarked on its mission to democratise and revolutionise sapphire After initially working with transparent blocks the following year the brand pushed the boundaries further and true to its art of fusion concept succeeded in creating large coloured synthetic sapphires despite the complexity unpredictability instability and lack of homogeneity in the fusion and crystallisation of sapphire This is all part of an ongoing process as the brand continues to invest in the machines required to industrialise sapphire and to provide its R D division with the means to explore ways of colouring sapphire which from transparent has been tinted smoked black blue then red True to form Hublot has carried on its explorations and earlier this year introduced a third primary colour to its palette yellow a fusion of copper with aluminium oxide This is the first time in the history of watchmaking that sapphire has been coloured yellow This bright new shade is spotlighted in the Spirit of Big Bang Yellow Sapphire 42mm With hardness and scratch resistance to rival diamond 9 on the Mohs scale versus 10 for diamond this watch is as light as titanium barely tipping the scales at 107 grams on the wrist Brilliantly transparent its sunny yellow colour extends all the way to the ribbed strap in natural rubber C R professional dive watch Here too Rolex led the way with the Submariner Launched in 1953 it measured 37mm in diameter sported a steel case and bracelet and the rotating bezel was marked with five minute intervals for calculating dive times Most of all it was guaranteed water resistant to 100 metres Today s icons But let s head over the Alps from Switzerland to Italy home of Officine Panerai which introduced the Radiomir in 1936 followed a decade later by the more advanced Luminor Both were reworked to suit modern lifestyles when the Florence based firm became part of the Richemont Group in 1997 The Radiomir was the first true dive watch capable of resisting an underwater pressure greater than the 3 atmospheres required for a merely waterproof watch It came about through the convergence between an order for a luminous watch placed by the Royal Italian Navy for its frogman commandos and the emergence of Rationalism a design ethic prominent in architecture that favoured clean functional lines The third ingredient of this unique recA I II III IIII HUBLOT SPIRIT OF BIG BANG YELLOW SAPPHIRE 42MM DRIVEN BY ITS INNOVATIVE SPIRIT I BREITLING SUPEROCEAN HERITAGE II CHRON S U P E R LU M I N OVA N U M E R A L S A N D I N D E X E S TAKES ITS I NSPI R ATION FROM THE STRENGTH IN 2016 HUBLOT SE T ABOUT RE VOLUTIONISING SAPPHIRE A TOTALLY TR ANSPARENT OGR APH IN 2017 BREITLING REDESIGNED ITS AS WELL AS A PRECISE MINUTE TR ACK ON THE AND P OWER OF THE LION H ISTOR ICALLY THE ULTR A RESISTANT MATERIAL THAT IS E XCEP TIONALLY COMPLE X TO MACHINE A YE AR S U P E R O C E A N H E R I TAG E F O R T H E S I X T I E T H FL ANGE SY M B O L O F G R A N D S E I KO P R O P O S E D A S LATER IT PUSHED THE LIMITS EVEN FURTHER BY CREATING LARGE COLOURED SAPPHIRES ANNIVERSARY OF THIS LEGENDARY DIVE WATCH III TISSOT CHRONO XL THE TISSOT CHRONO XL T H R EE L I M I T ED ED I T I O N S T H I S N E W S ER I ES DESPITE THE COMPLEXIT Y UNPREDICTABILIT Y INSTABILIT Y AND L ACK OF HOMOGENEIT Y T WO YE ARS ON THE SUCCESS STORY CONTIN THINKS BIG WITH AN IMPRESSIVE 45MM CASE I S EQ U I P P E D W I T H T WO N E X T G E N E R AT I O N IN THE FUSION AND CRYSTALLISATION OF SAPPHIRE THIS INNOVATION HAS BEEN BACKED UES WITH A 44MM MODEL AND A 42MM MODEL IN CONTEM P OR ARY AR AB IC NUM ER ALS AT 12 3 SPRING DRIVE MOVEMENTS BY SIGNIFICANT INVESTMENTS IN THE INDUSTRIALISATION OF SAPPHIRE AND BY THE GOLD AND STEEL 6 AND 9 O C LOC K ON THE L ARGE D I A L M A K E WORK OF HUBLOT S R D TE AM WHO CONTINUOUSLY E XPLORE HOW TO CRE ATE NEW I I M ONTB L AN C TIME WALKER MANUFACTURE IT E ASY TO RE AD OFF TI ME A CHRONOGR APH COLOURS OF SAPPHIRE BUI LDING ON THIS E XPERTISE HUBLOT IS NOW CRE ATING CHRONOGR APH TH I S N E W VERS I ON OF TH E FUNCTION ADDS TO THE URBAN ST YLE L ARGE PERFECTLY UNIFORM TR ANSPARENT AND COLOURED SAPPHIRES TIMEWALKER CHRONOGR APH FEATURES A 43MM I I I I GR AND S E I KO SP ORT G R A N D S E I KO I S R E VERS E PAN DA D I A L TH E F IXED C ER A M I C I NTRODUC I NG A N E W D ES I G N TO I TS S P OR T BEZEL IS ENGR AVED WITH A TACHYMETER SCALE COLLECTION TO MARK THE TWENTIETH ANNIVER F O R M E AS U R I N G S P EED I T A L SO F E AT U R ES SARY OF THE SPRING DRIVE THIS NEW WATCH

Page 51

In Phase with the Moon FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 51 Herm s excels in measuring the whims of time in unconventional ways as it once again demonstrates with the Arceau L Heure de la Lune watch showing not one but two Moons When a complication has been done as many times as the moon phase display it s understandable that few brands today are bold enough to venture a new interpretation The oldest known device intended to reproduce the changing faces of Earth s satellite is none other than the Antikythera mechanism which has been dated to the second century B C This gives some grasp of the importance of astronomy in the development of time measurement We pick up the trail transposed into cogs and wheels some thirteen centuries later with the work of Al Biruni a scholar and the inventor of the mechanical astrolabe another device which displays the phases of the moon on which the Islamic calendar is based As clockmaking techniques progressed this complication moved first to the dial of weight driven wall clocks then to spring driven portable table clocks and from there to the pocket watch Twentieth century watchmakers were by no means immune to the poetic appeal of the Moon on a dial and rapidly incorporated moon phase mechanisms into full and perpetual calendar wristwatches Meanwhile advances in precision earned certain displays the title of astronomical or precision moon We know that an actual lunation takes 29 days 12 hours 44 minutes and 2 8 seconds or 29 53 days For watchmakers who are sticklers for precision this is less than ideal as the mechanism that generally serves to transpose these moon phases to Complex mechanisms With so many precedents it would be easy to believe there can be nothing new under the sun where moon phases are concerned Herm s begs to differ with all the panache and originality for which it is known already brought to life in creations such as Arceau Le Temps Suspendu Dressage L Heure Masqu e and Slim d Herm s L Heure Impatiente In the case of the Arceau L Heure de la Lune Herm s is offering what it calls an original interpretation of the moon phase complication using two moving discs one showing hours and minutes the other for the date They appear to float above the dial in aventurine or in meteorite to make one complete sweep in 59 days As they do they reveal the different faces of two mother of pearl moons one each for the northern and southern hemispheres Both discs remain upright throughout their rotation so that the time and the date are always easily read Typically for Herm s this poetic vision masks a degree of mechanical complexity such that the Parisian firm works only with the very best watchmakers In this instance Jean Fran ois Mojon and his teams at Chronode were given the delicate task of developing a module that would seamlessly combine with the in house Herm s H1837 calibre an extra thin movement at 3 7mm high This implied an additional constraint for Mojon whose mechanism had to fit within the elegant curves of the 43mm Arceau case in white gold Mission accomplished as the 117 components of the module assemble into a height of 4 2mm As an added twist Herm s has turned the cardinal points upside down so that the southern hemisphere moon is at the top of the dial where it reveals the Pegasus winged horse a nod to Herm s equestrian connections and its northern hemisphere counterpart complete with craters at the bottom For Herm s the objective is to set foot on the Moon and lose one s sense of time and space Not easy with a Christophe Roulet beauty like this on the wrist the dial relies on a gear with 59 teeth that drives a disc depicting two moons A mechanical lunation therefore last 29 5 days meaning it will be off by one day every two years and almost eight months A precision moon in contrast is driven by a gear that has 135 teeth The discrepancy between the Moon s actual cycle and its mechanical counterpart is reduced to one day in 122 years Alongside these mechanical innovations watchmakers have also experimented with the aesthetic of the display From a simple disc the Moon s ever changing moods have been represented by semi spheres that glow in the dark by rotating globes and by moons that gradually disappear then reappear behind a moving patch HERM S ARCEAU L HEURE DE LA LUNE HOW TO PUT A NEW SPIN ON THE CL AS HERM S ARCEAU L HEURE DE LA LUNE AS THE T WO MOBILE COUNTERS ONE OF THE MOBILE CHASSIS WHICH SWEEPS THE DIAL IN 59 DAYS THE MOTHER OF SIC MOON PHASE COMPLICATION HERM S S ELEGANT SOLUTION ENCLOSED SHOWING THE TIME THE OTHER THE DATE ROTATE AROUND THE DIAL CON PE ARL MOONS SET INTO THE STONE DISPL AY THE LUNAR CYCLES IN THE NORTH WITHIN THE ARCE AU CASE IS TO SIMULTANEOUSLY SHOW THE PHASES OF THE CE ALING AND RE VE ALING THE MOON DISCS THEY REMAIN UPRIGHT SO THEY ERN AND SOUTHERN HEMISPHERES A MYSTERIOUS GAME OF HIDE AND SEEK MOON IN THE NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN HEMISPHERES AS T WO MOBILE COUN CAN BE E ASILY RE AD THE PATENTED MODULE THAT BRINGS THEM TO LIFE WAS THAT RE VE ALS NOTHING OF ITS TECHNICAL COMPLE XIT Y TERS GR AVITATE AROUND A ME TEORITE DIAL BRE ATHING LIFE INTO THIS CON DE VELOPED E XC LUSIVELY FOR HER M S WITH A TOTAL TH IC KNESS OF JUST TEMPOR ARY CHOREOGR APHY IS THE HERM S H1837 MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT 4 2M M ITS 117 POLISHED AND BE AD BL ASTED COMPONENTS ARE INCORPO COMPLE TED BY AN E XCLUSIVE AND PATENTED MODULE BY CHRONODE R ATED INTO THE HERM S H1837 MOVEMENT PRESERVING THE SLENDER PROFILE

Page 52

52 WATCH YOUR TIME ipe is perhaps the most fundamental precision Even so the overarching question was less the watch and more the case for its creators the Radiomir was not so much a mechanical project as a study in aesthetic and functionality In fact the very first Radiomir were fitted with Rolex or Angelus movements While we have deliberately focused on dive watches water resistance is a key factor in the modern day wearing of a watch where sport watches are concerned the chronograph is equally deserving of attention interestingly many of today s chronographs are also dive watches Some brands have been particularly busy in the field such as Heuer now TAG Heuer since the merger in 1985 of the Swiss watchmaker and Luxembourg s TAG Techniques d Avant Garde as well as Breitling IWC Omega and Zenith The latter two are this year celebrating the 50th anniversary of their most iconic chronograph the Omega Speedmaster which travelled with the Apollo 11 mission that put the first man on the Moon in 1969 and for Zenith the El Primero the first automatic winding chrono graph that debuted on January 10th of the same year Automatic winding a development which one could argue proved as decisive as water resistance in transforming the wristwatch for modern day use The natural movement of the wrist during the day provides an autonomous supply of power to the movement for as long as the watch is worn In the original El Primero this innovation went hand in hand with an integrated chronograph construction built around a column wheel and a central rotor mounted on ball bearings and an oscillator beating at 36 000 vibrations per hour These characteristics made the El Primero the most accurate serial produced chronograph in the world and the only one capable of measuring short intervals to one tenth of a second Chronograph or dive watch ISO 6425 compliant in professional situations mechanical sport watches have given way to electronic timers and dive computers which only adds to their historic and sentimental value For collectors and specialists they can never be replaced Up in the Air A decade ago Louis Vuitton caught the watchmaking world off guard with a completely new means of displaying the time For the ten year anniversary of this exclusive calibre patented in 2009 the Parisian firm has come up with the Tambour Spin Time Air a totally transparent interpretation of the original concept The mechanics are the same as on previous versions Rather than a conventional central hand the hours are displayed by twelve rotating cubes Every 60 minutes two of these cubes spin one to reveal a neutral side and one to display the next hour It s fun it s new and it s also highly complex This new interpretation is again the work of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton s watchmaking arm Its teams are behind the LV88 calibre with automatic winding and 35 hours of power reserve The most intriguing aspect however is that the signature cubes jut out into empty space where the dial and movement have been completely cut away For this anniversary edition Louis Vuitton is presenting a seven strong collection of three men s watches and for women four models with cylinders instead of cubes The mechanism sits in the middle of the case between two sapphire crystals under the LV monogram on the men s versions or two Monogram flowers one rounded and one pointed for the women s Turning the watch over reveals the hidden side of the cubes or cylinders as well as the oscillating weight Louis Vuitton proves once again that it is always possible to put a new spin on the measuring of time E D I II III IIII LOUIS VUIT TON SPIN TIME AIR THE TAMBOUR SPIN TIME THE MOST MODERN JUMPING I R I C H A R D M I L L E R M 25 01 TOU R B I LLO N WI ND I NG VERS ION I N STAI N LESS STEEL USES IIII LONGINES LEGEND DIVER WATCH LONGINES HOURS WATCH TOOK THE WATCHMAKING WORLD BY SURPRISE A DECADE AGO WHEN ADVENTURE SYLVESTER STALLONE DESIGNED IN KHAKI GREEN CER AMIC FOR THE BE ZEL CROWN I S A LWAYS HAPPY TO R E V I S I T TH E WATC H ES IT INTRODUCED A COMPLE TELY NEW WAY TO TELL THE TIME THIS L ATEST ITER ATION COLL ABOR ATION WITH SYLVESTER STALLONE AND PUSHERS THE DIAL BOASTS THE CHAR AC THAT HAVE HELPED FORGE ITS RENOWN THIS THE TAMBOUR SPIN TIME AIR HAS A NEW LOOK BUT STAYS TRUE TO ITS UNIQUE CON THE RM 25 01 ADVENTURE TOURBILLON CHRON TERISTIC MEGA TAPISSERIE PAT TERN LONGINES LEGEND DIVER WATCH REIMAGINES CEP T INSTE AD OF A CONVENTIONAL CENTR AL HAND THE HOURS ARE SHOWN BY OGR APH IS MADE TO SURVIVE IN THE MOST HOS III ALPINA ALPINER X DESIGNED FOR THE OUT A 1960S MODEL ALL THE WHI LE CONSERVING TWELVE ROTATING CUBES EVERY 60 MINUTES TWO CUBES INSTANTANEOUSLY SPIN TO TILE NATUR AL ENVIRONMENTS RESEMBLING NO D O O R E N T H U S I AS T T H I S WATC H U S E S T H E THE ER A S T YPICAL ST YLE CODES AND DESIGN SHOW THE NEW HOUR THE EXCLUSIVE MOVEMENT INSIDE IS THE LV88 WITH AUTOMATIC OTHER WATCH IT IS SAYS THE ACTOR RE ADY A LP I NER X C O M PAN ION APP FOR I PHONE AND ELEMENTS THIS CONTEMPOR ARY EDITION WINDING AND A 35 HOUR POWER RESERVE FOR ACTION ANDROID IT TR ACKS THE USER S HE ART R ATE B E N E F I T S F R O M LO N G I N E S E X P E R T I S E TO II AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE WHEN E XERC ISING RECORDS AND ANALYSES G UA R A N T EE L EG I B I L I T Y WAT ER R E S I STA N C E SELF WINDING S I N C E 1993 T H E ROYA L OA K SLEEP PAT TERNS NOTIFIES MISSED CALLS AND AND PR ACTICALIT Y OFFSHORE COLLECTION HAS GIVEN A SPORT IN M ESSAGES AND ENAB LES E ASY CONFIGUR A F L EC T E D P OW E R F U L F E E L TO T H E D E S I G N TION OF THE WATCH S PAR AME TERS TROPES OF THE ICONIC ROYAL OAK THIS SELF

Page 53

RUBRIQUE SPORT WATCH YOUR TIME 53 Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronometer Already a favourite among adrenalin seekers the Diver has adopted a completely new contemporary appearance both outside and in and redefines functional elegance with its audacious design A dive watch built to withstand up to 300 meters of potentially deadly water pressure its inverted concave bezel combines with a domed sapphire crystal The dial hints at the mechanical marvel of the UN 118 movement with silicon technology a specialty of the Manufacture that is visible through the open back of the 44mm case SuperLumiNova on the indexes and hands makes the hours and minutes visible not only in the dark of night but also at great depths The dial also displays a power reserve indicator at 12 o clock and a date and small seconds at 6 o clock all within the unidirectional rotating bezel The numerals have been redrawn to read 0 15 30 45 Even the rubber and titanium strap has been cleverly reworked the clasp is replaced by a pin buckle and streamlined with just one easily identifiable Ulysse Nardin signature element Sturdy blue rubber guards protect the crown

Page 54

Page 55

COLLECTORS WATCH YOUR TIME 55 Collector s Hour o Vincent Daveau I am a man Jupiter and every man has to invent his own way Jean Paul Sartre 1905 1980 Look closely and you ll see that contemporary watchmaking and specifically that which takes mechanisms to their furthest limits is inseparable from collecting Its future depends on whether brands can continue to take connoisseurs by surprise and in doing so maintain their interest E r i c Va l l i At the very tip of the watchmaking pyramid a tiny cluster of brands inhabits a complex overlap of industry and luxury Their existence is contingent on their ability to keep their public enthralled with the magic and mystery of rarefied products But in a world such as ours where profitability and the bottom line so often get the final say certain of these brands might gloss over the mechanical creations most able to show off their expertise and focus instead on others which they consider to be more saleable hence more profitable At the same time these brands know full well that their image as well as their future depend on the communication they develop around these exceptional timepieces Now that luxury watches are purchased less as a means of telling the time and more as a status symbol for their wearer manufacturers cannot lose sight of the fact that there can be no credible message without a zest of history that their long term existence depends on their ability to keep the legend alive with a battery of exotic products ULYSSE NARDIN E XECUTIVE TOURBILLON FREE WHEEL PERHAPS THE MOST SURPRISING FE ATURE OF THIS TOURBILLON FREE WHEEL IS THE FREE FLOATING COMPONENTS ON THE DIAL SIDE IN PINK GOLD WITH A MOVEMENT THAT APPE ARS TO DEF Y THE L AWS OF GR AVIT Y AND AN ASTONISHING BOXDOMED SAPPHIRE IT SOARS BEYOND THE E XPECTATIONS OF WHAT CONTEMPOR ARY WATCHMAKING CAN ACHIE VE ITS MOST ASTONISHING FE ATURES ARE THE BOOMER ANG SHAPED TOURBILLON BRIDGES AND THE SE VEN DAY POWER RESERVE INDICATOR AT 4 O CLOCK WHICH LIKE THE SKELE TONISED HOUR AND MINUTE INDICATORS AND THE GE AR TR AINS SEEM TO BE FLOATING IN MID AIR The exceptional rules Ever since the advent of quartz watches and now their multi tasking smart equivalent mechanical timepieces have been looked on as curiosities In the cold light of numbers they represent fewer than one in four Swiss watches sold annually and less than 1 of global watch sales The desire to own even the most basic mechanical watch is therefore enough to place anyone firmly on the fringes of society except that the ardent defenders of traditional watchmaking are less interested in a timepiece s primary function and more concerned with its capacity to offer in the know observers a positive image of its wearer it is a badge worn with pride by members of the same club

Page 56

56 WATCH YOUR TIME Freak c est chic Faced with this logic the only thing between these hallowed brands and a long fall from grace is a history and a reputation which they must keep alive not by feeding off a glorious past but by proving their superiority For them to move constantly forward and rise above the competition they have no choice than to maintain their prestige with complicated timepieces in much the same way automakers send race cars that are bristling with technology hurtling round the track It costs a lot but it pays for itself in the end Of course some of the renowned names such as Cartier whose extraordinary timepieces and visionary concepts were for a decade instrumental in creating the aura that surrounds complex fine watchmaking are now slowing the pace and focusing on simpler elegant products This particular category of watchmaking may be less technically challenging and more emotional than sensational in its appeal it is no less carefully gauged to reach the brand s core audience Not everyone agrees with this strategy Bvlgari Chief Executive Jean Christophe Babin insists that excep As a brand that can trace its existence back to 1846 Ulysse Nardin is rooted in tradition yet since the 1980s it has also been instrumental in revolutionising modern watchmaking It was the first manufacturer to grasp the potential of silicon a material that paved the way for advances in technology that would otherwise be unthinkable even with the most sophisticated metal alloys It also broke the mould in product architecture and design One of its watches in particular has been labelled a gamechanger That watch is the Freak introduced in 2001 The brand s flagship the Freak is a lesson in concision no hands no dial and no crown The time is shown by the movement which is enclosed in a sapphire crystal shell As replacements for the hands two arrow shaped bridges make one rotation in one and twelve hours respectively As they do they point to numerals on an inner track to show hours and minutes The case and the movement interact to do the job of the crown The upper bezel which is released by a clip at 6 o clock rotates to set the time A second bezel on the caseback winds the uncommonly long mainspring There have been several developments on the Freak over the years that mirror the brand s capacity for innovation in particular its use of silicon This year has been no exception with the launch of the Freak X at a very competitive price making it the entry point for the collection While reprising many of the Freak s visual and functional features this new iteration takes one liberty with the original the time is no longer set by the bezel but by a crown Other than that the baguette shaped carousel movement still rotates on itself once an hour to indicate the time Dial and hands remain conspicuous by their absence a central bridge shows the minutes and one of the wheels indicates the hours Visible for all to see the extra large balance is made from silicon a material now synonymous with Ulysse Nardin C R tional products that push boundaries and showcase expertise attract media attention which adds to the brand s renown This inevitably benefits serial production as part of the public wants to own a piece of this greatness Proof of this the different Octo watches launched over recent years the latest being the Octo Grande Sonnerie Perpetual Calendar have largely contributed to Bvlgari s favourable position on the fine watch spectrum but also buoyed sales of serial production Nor is Jean Christophe Babin the only one to hold this view Every brand boss knows that making and publicising complicated watches brings greater visibility And the more visible the brand is the more famous it becomes And famous brands sell more Shifting perspectives Be warned though the highest realm of horological excellence has its own canon which though slow to evolve changes nonetheless Certain mechanical specificities that were fashionable only yesterday no longer enjoy the same aura Twenty years ago A II I III IIII ULYSSE NARDIN FREAK X THE FREAK X REPRESENTS THE ENTRY POINT INTO THE FREAK I ROLE X OYSTER PERPETUAL YACHT MASTER II TH IS ULTR A TH IN PIECE IS EQUIPPED WITH AN IIII CODE 11 59 BY AUDEMARS PIGUET PERPET COLLECTION AND REPRISES MANY OF ITS AESTHE TIC AND FUNCTIONAL ELEMENTS THE ONLY CHRONOGR APH IN THE WORLD WITH A UPDATED VERSION OF THE JAEGER LECOULTRE UAL CALENDAR CODE 11 59 IS THE NAME OF THE THE SIZING IS TIGHTER 43MM DOWN FROM 45MM AND BRE AKING WITH ONE OF MECHANICAL MEMORY THE OYSTER PERPE TUAL 868 PERPE TUAL CALENDAR MOVEMENT NE W C O LLECTION L AUNCHED I N JANUARY BY THE MOST ICONIC ASPECTS OF THE COLLECTION IT HAS A CROWN FOR TIME SE T YACHT MASTER II CAP TURES THE SUSPENSE OF I I I G I R A R D P E R R E G AUX B R ID GE CO S MO S AUDEMARS PIGUET IT LINES UP SIX MODELS AND TING THE BAGUE T TE MOVEM ENT IS STI LL A CAROUSEL THAT ROTATES ONCE ON THOSE VITAL MOMENTS THE ULTIMATE REGAT TA LUM INESCENCE AND DEP TH ARE INHERENT TO TH I R TEEN R EFER ENCES FRO M T I M E ON LY TO ITSELF E VERY HOUR TO INDICATE THE TIME THE MOVEMENT IS SIMPLER WITH FEWER WATCH IT PL AYS AN ESSENTIAL ROLE FOR SKIP THIS NEW TIMEPIECE FROM GIR ARD PERREGAUX MORE COMPLE X VERSIONS SUCH AS THIS PER WHEELS DIAL AND HANDS ARE STILL ABSENT INSTE AD THE CENTR AL BRIDGE ACTS PERS AS THEY CALCUL ATE THEIR BEST COURSE THE TERRESTRIAL GLOBE AT 3 O CLOCK SHOWS PE TUAL CALENDAR WITH AN AVENTURINE DIAL AS A MINUTE HAND AND ONE OF THE WHEELS INDICATES THE HOURS CLE ARLY VISIBLE I I JAEG E R LECOU LTR E MASTER ULTR A THIN A SECOND TIME ZONE WITH A DAY NIGHT INDI IS THE E XTR A WIDE SILICON BAL ANCE WHEEL COMPLE TED BY NICKEL FLY WEIGHTS PERPETUAL ENAMEL WITH ITS FOUR INTERNAL CATION AT 9 O CLOCK THE CELESTIAL GLOBE AND STABILIZING MICRO BL ADES APERTURES THE EMBODIMENT OF WATCHMAK COMPLETES ONE ROTATION IN 23 HOURS 58 MIN ING COMPLICATIONS AND A BLUE ENAMEL GUIL UTES AND 4 SECONDS THE PRECISE LENGTH LOCH DIAL THE MASTER ULTR A THIN PERPE T OF A SIDERE AL DAY HOURS AND M INUTES ARE UAL ENAMEL IS ONCE SEEN NEVER FORGOT TEN SHOWN AT 12 O CLOCK ABOVE THE TOURBILLON

Page 57

LIVE YOUR PASSION SLIMLINE POWER RESERVE MANUFACTURE Handcrafted in house movement Manufacture Collection in house developed in house produced and in house assembled movements frederiqueconstant com

Page 58

58 WATCH YOUR TIME a brand that didn t have a tourbillon regulator in its collection had little hope of standing out from the crowd Its spinning forms are now a much scarcer presence the result of overexposure including at the more modest end of the scale and the subsequent erosion of its exclusivity Now when a tourbillon is part of the picture it requires an original configuration or serves to regulate a movement endowed with other mechanical subtleties Another sign of the times for a high flying watch to have any chance of getting noticed among the avalanche of new products and thus capture the interest of collectors and the media a single complication rarely suffices Market dynamics not to say competition thus have a non negligible role to play in encouraging this mechanical one upmanship In fact competition is so tough that what counts as a complication as defined by G A Berner in his Professional Illustrated Dictionary of Watchmaking is sometimes open to interpretation with the aim of artificially increasing the number of compli cations Perpetual calendars are a case in point Newly popular among collectors since the invention of mechanisms that makes setting them less of a challenge they are regularly presented as four separate complications namely indications of the day date month and leap year instead of just one On the other hand a chronograph with a split seconds function be it simple or as at A Lange S hne double legitimately counts twice once for the chronograph itself and again for the addition of a split seconds hand As a reminder for a watch to qualify as a Grand Complication it must contain a minimum of three complications But here too bad habits prevail and certain brands insist on considering the tourbillon to be a complication when it is an improvement made to the regulator not a function beyond the basic indication of hours minutes and seconds This is something collectors should look out for as more brands introduce multi complication watches into their catalogue as a means of A distinguishing themselves Of the Finest Calibre It s like it was yesterday Baume Mercier took SIHH 2018 by surprise with the unveiling of the Clifton Baumatic and more to the point what was inside namely the Baumatic movement Five years in the making Baume Mercier developed the technology for this automatic calibre in collaboration with the Richemont Group s Manufacture Horlog re ValFleurier and its Research Innovation team It rolls out the very latest in watchmaking technology at an unbeatable price Both the escapement and the balance spring are in silicon The movement withstands magnetic fields of up to 1 500 Gauss and provides five days of power reserve Both the design of this calibre and the use of new types of lubricant which are unaffected by temperature changes make it one of the most reliable and rugged calibres on the market today The proof service intervals are extended beyond the usual five years Why stop after such an impressive debut Baume Mercier returned to this year s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie with another talking point the Clifton Baumatic Perpetual Calendar Powered by the Baumatic BM131975AC 1 movement with the addition of a perpetual calendar module it delivers all the strengths of the original precision reliability five days of power reserve anti magnetic properties up to five times greater than standard and seven year service intervals As for the rest the indications of date day month leap year and moon phases will continue without any need for correction until March 1st 2100 which one of the whims of the Gregorian calendar will be a non leap century year Nothing the Baumatic can t handle E D I II III IIII BAU M E M E RC I E R BAUMATIC PER PETUAL CALENDAR L AU NC H ED I N 2018 TH E I PANERAI LUMINOR 1950 TOURBILLON GMT TITA THE AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT VITAL MILLIMETRES IIII FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB1 UVRE D OR CLIF TON BAUMATIC LINE MAKES AN IMPRESSIVE DEBUT IN GR AND COMPLICATIONS NIO CERTAINLY ONE OF THE MOST INNOVATIVE HAVE BEEN SHAVED FROM THESE PARTS SOME INSPIRED BY AN ASTRONOMICAL POCKET WATCH WITH THIS PERPE TUAL CALENDAR POWERED BY BAUME MERCIER S OWN BAUMATIC AND SURPRISING WATCHES BY PANER AI WHOSE OF WHICH ARE NO THICKER THAN A HUMAN HAIR BY FERD INAND BERTHOUD TH IS UVRE D OR BM13 MOVEMENT WITH THE ADDITION OF A DUBOIS D PR A Z 55102 MODULE THIS NEW MANUFACTURING FACILIT Y IS LOCATED IN NEU I I I F R D R I Q U E CO N S TA N T SLIMLINE PER INTRODUCES SUPERB DECOR ATIVE TECHNIQUES ITER ATION COMBINES THE PROVEN QUALITIES OF THE BAUMATIC MOVEMENT A 5 DAY CH TEL SWITZERL AND THE TITANIUM CASE OF PETUAL CALENDAR MANUFACTURE THE WATCH TO THE BR AND S DEBUT MODEL THE GOLD DIAL POWER RESERVE AND OPTIMAL ANTI MAGNETIC PROPERTIES WITH ONE OF THE MOST THIS LO SCIENZIATO LUMINOR 1950 TOURBILLON COMMUNIT Y SAT UP AND TOOK NOTE WHEN THE IS HAND PATINATED THE MOVEMENT IS FINISHED USEFUL AND BEST LOVED COMPLICATIONS INDICATIONS OF THE DATE DAY MONTH GMT IS MADE USING DIRECT METAL LASER SINTER SLIMLINE PERPETUAL CALENDAR MADE ITS DEBUT WITH PYR AMID ENGR AVING AND THE FL ANKS OF AND MOON PHASES PRESENT AN ENDUR INGLY ELEGANT FACE WITH BLUED HANDS ING DMLS A 3D PRINTING TECHNIQUE FOR METAL I N 2016 TH I S YE AR S R EN D I T I ON M ATC H ES A THE WH I TE GO LD D I A L AR E H IG H LIG HTED BY SE T AGAINST A PORCEL AIN FINISH WHITE DIAL SURROUNDED BY A RED GOLD CASE II PIAGET ALTIPLANO ULTIMATE AUTOMATIC 910P GOLD CASE WITH AN ANTHR ACITE GREY DIAL IN BAGUE T TE CUT DIAMONDS THIS ALTIPL ANO ULTIMATE 910P IS A LESSON IN ORDER TO PROPOSE THIS COMPLE X WATCH AT A ULTR A THIN AT A MERE 4 3MM HIGH THE SECRET RE ASONABLE PRICE THE BR AND HAS ADAP TED LIES IN ITS CONSTRUCTION THE CASEBACK DOU AN IN HOUSE PERPETUAL CALENDAR MODULE TO BLES AS THE MAINPL ATE FOR THE 219 PARTS IN ITS IN HOUSE BASE MOVEMENT

Page 59

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 59 The Stars Come Out Van Cleef Arpels measures time on a cosmic scale This year s collections capture the movement of the planets chart the constellations and light up the night with creations that are imbued with the brand s uniquely poetic vision of time Established in 1906 Van Cleef Arpels has carved out a reputation in the watchmaking world as a true aesthete Its approach to the measuring of time is defined not by slavish obedience but a poetic vision in which the seconds are plucked like petals from a daisy and the hours appear and disappear at the wave of a wand Such poetry is however inconceivable without the manufacturing rigour that animates this magical world Van Cleef Arpels watchmaking embodies a part of its identity explains Rapha l Mingam International Marketing Director for watches As such it is indissociable from the foundations on which the Maison is built a heritage strong values a distinct sphere of expression and a profound culture of excellence Its watch collections are rooted in three rare abilities to create new stories and styles that resonate with the Maison s stylistic heritage to bring them to life with purpose made complication movements and lastly to transform them into objects of beauty through jewellery techniques and our m tiers d art in particular enamelling The brand has transposed what it describes as the dazzling spectacle of the heavens and the stars into collections which call equally on technical expertise and hand craftsmanship to create highly emotional prod Light up the night The Midnight Zodiac Lumineux collection for men and its equivalent for women the Lady Arpels Zodiac Lumineux collection depict the twelve signs of the Western Zodiac on dials that light up literally The effect is impressive grounded in a phenomenon known as piezoelectricity that was first identified in the eighteenth century This is the capacity certain materials have to accumulate an electrical charge when subjected to mechanical constraints A corresponding module integrated into the movement features a ceramic blade whose vibrations generate sufficient electrical energy to power light emitting diodes At the press of a button they backlight translucent enamel beads on the dial which glow for three seconds As is customary at Van Cleef Arpels these dials are beautifully wrought The astrology signs outlined in sculpted white gold stand out against a background of spangled blue enamel that imitates a starry sky Still with its head in the stars the brand has imagined a version of its Midnight Plan tarium watch inside a 38mm Lady Arpels case with a carpet of diamonds on the bezel and the case band It plays host to the Sun surrounded by its closest planets Mercury Venus and Earth together with its satellite the Moon Each orbits the dial composed of seven aventurine discs at actual speed Joining them in their graceful rotations is a rhodium plated gold shooting star which shows the time in a characteristically poetic manner On the back of the watch day month and year are displayed in two apertures in the charming company of a crescent shaped oscillating weight sprinkled with diamonds Heaven for the wrist Christophe Roulet VAN CLEEF ARPELS MIDNIGHT ZODIAC TAURUS THE ZODIAC LUMINEUX DIALS VAN CLEEF ARPELS LADY ARPELS PLANETARIUM ONE OF ITS POETIC ASTRON ENLY BODY MOVES AT ITS ACTUAL SPEED ORBITING THE DIAL IN 88 DAYS FOR LIGHT UP THANKS TO PIEZOELECTRICITY A PHENOMENON FIRST IDENTIFIED IN THE OMY CRE ATIONS VAN CLEEF ARPELS RETURNS TO ITS MIDNIGHT PL AN TAR MERCURY 224 DAYS FOR VENUS AND 365 DAYS FOR E ARTH IN A KEY INNOVATION EIGHTEENTH CENTURY WHEREBY CERTAIN MATERIALS ACCUMULATE AN ELECTRI IUM IN A VERSION FOR WOMEN DISTINGUISHED BY ITS REFINED AESTHETIC AS THE MOON ADDITIONALLY ROTATES AROUND THE E ARTH IN 29 5 DAYS PERFORM CAL CHARGE WHEN SUBJECTED TO MECHANICAL CONSTR AINTS THIS PROPERTY MUCH AS ITS E XCLUSIVE AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT THE L ADY ARPELS PL AN TAR ING A CELESTIAL BALLET ON THE DIAL DAY AF TER DAY IS USED TO WONDERFUL EFFECT TO ILLUMINATE ENAMEL BEADS REPRESENTING IUM WATCH DEPICTS THE SUN AND THE NE AREST PL ANE TS MERCURY VENUS THE ZODIAC CONSTELLATIONS AND E ARTH TOGETHER WITH ITS NATUR AL SATELLITE THE MOON E ACH HE AV ucts Rapha l Mingam fills us in For almost a decade Van Cleef Arpels has expressed the poetry of time through stories that are inspired by what we call Poetic Astronomy These stories are like odes to the cycle of the Sun and Moon the movement of the planets or the awe inspiring spectacle of the stars The Midnight in Paris and Midnight Plan tarium watches already captured the imagination in this field of expression Since then following the introduction in 2016 of the Midnight Nuit Lumineuse and the Lady Arpels Zodiac Lumineux watches in 2018 our philosophy of time has taken on an entirely new significance combining science with poetry

Page 60

60 WATCH YOUR TIME The leading watch owners club offering its members year round benefits Keep it fresh After spending the past two decades vying to catch connoisseurs eye it would now seem that brands have something else to worry about namely the interest collectors are showing in the new school of watchmaking Prominent among these artisans of exception are F P Journe and its Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Girard Perregaux with its Neo Tourbillon with Three Bridges Skeleton Vacheron Constantin and its Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar and Ulysse Nardin with its Mega Yacht to name just a few examples gleaned from the top of the pyramid Over the past fifteen years the very best among them the pioneers of new watchmaking whose ranks include Christophe Claret Greubel Forsey Hublot HYT MB F Rebellion Richard Mille and Urwerk have succeeded in making their place in the sun thanks to instruments that truly are out of the ordinary Some exhibiting in the Carr des Horlogers section of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie SIHH in Geneva or part of the new Les Ateliers section at Baselworld have already left their mark on the very high end market So what can we look forward to Answer the generalisation of ultra sophisticated pieces defined by original amusing and atypical mechanical solutions or rarely seen combinations of complications that serve a useful purpose in everyday life In a sense the artisans of twenty first century horology are a lesson to the long established names that watchmaking must continue to advance and that it is this progress and the occasional disruptive innovation which keep the industry growing Register now on www fine watch club com GetWhatYouCant Photography Karine Bauzin I II III IIII I HUBLOT BIG BANG MP 11 CARBON RENOWNED COMPLE X MOVEMENT INSIDE IS THE AUTOMATIC IIII MONSIEUR DE CHANEL BLACK EDITION THE FOR ITS E XPERTISE IN MACHINING HIGH TECH BVL 703 WITH TOURBILLON GR ANDE AND PETITE MONSIEUR WAS THE FIRST CHANEL WATCH WITH M ATER IALS HUB LOT HAS M ADE THE CASE OF SONNERIES AND MINUTE REPE ATER AN IN HOUSE MOVEMENT SHOWING INSTANTA THIS BIG BANG MP 11 IN 3D CARBON THE MOVE III TAG HEUER CARRER A CALIBRE HEUER 02T NEOUS JUMPING HOURS IN A L ARGE APERTURE MENT IS ON A PAR WITH SE VEN SER IES COU TOUR BILLON NANOGR APH TAG H EU ER P R E AT 6 O C LOC K R E TROG R ADE M I N U TES OVER P L E D B A R R E L S A N D A N I N L I N E I N D I CATO R SENTS THE F I RST E VER CAR BON C O M P OS I TE 240 AND SMALL SECONDS THIS YE AR S BL ACK COUNTING THE 14 DAYS OF P OWER RESERVE BAL ANCE SPRING INSIDE THE IN HOUSE HEUER ED I T I ON I NTRODUC ES A M AT B L AC K CASE I N I I BVLG ARI OCTO GR ANDE SONNERIE INNO 02T C H R O N O M E T E R C E R T I F I E D TO U R B I L LO N HIGH RESISTANCE CER AMIC VATIVE AND ULTR A MODERN THE OCTO IS THE MOVEMENT AND USHERS IN THE NE X T GENER EPITOME OF BVLGARI S SPIRIT OF L ATIN DESIGN ATION OF TOURBILLON WATCHES MEETS SUPERL ATIVE SWISS WATCHMAKING THE

Page 61

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 61 Let It Shine The intricate gold bracelets adorning Piaget s watches since the 1960s testify to the brand s singular talent for working with this precious metal The fabulous goldwork in this year s collections is further proof In the Middle Ages alchemists justified their attempts to achieve transmutation of metals by referring to the myth of Midas the Phrygian king who transformed everything he touched into gold a wish granted to him by Dionysus This is nothing compared to Piaget which makes it a point of honour to transform this highly desirable metal with its undeniable allure into the most stunning creations The Shine collection which it presented at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva earlier this year is a compilation of some of its most coveted watches whose effortless elegance is as much a hallmark of the brand as its inimitable expertise All have in common to be made out of white or pink gold In 1957 Piaget took the decision to use only precious metals i e gold and platinum for its watches Since then it has used its command of goldworking techniques to give form to the kind of fabulous styles worn by Sixties and Seventies glitterati or Piaget Society as they became known admired for their flamboyance and freedom As Piaget reminds us Gold is the king of materials adored and even revered since ancient times used only for the most exalted objects At Piaget gold is symbolic of the Maison s in house expertise that The art of the bracelet Two styles in particular channel gold s tactile appeal beginning with the Limelight Gala a watch whose retro contemporary refinement is so very Piaget This year s iteration is mounted on a stunning hand engraved bracelet whose D cor Palace finish has already been seen on several memorable Piaget designs Here it complements a beautiful striped dark green malachite dial A new openworked style of gem setting on the bezel and asymmetric lugs allows for larger stones which snuggle up to each other as though invisibly held The Extremely Lady watch is another masterful design For it Piaget has imagined how light and shade can play on the scales of an exotic animal and reproduced this rippling effect in pink gold Each scale is brushed by hand in delicate touches and with minute differences in angle and pressure The result is a shimmering bracelet whose scale decoration continues on the gold dial adding to an already rich collection of textures inspired by nature and wrought in gold The bezel with its halo of 24 brilliant cut diamonds together with the pink tone of the gold lend an irresistible vintage vibe Equally noteworthy are the heart stoppingly thin Altiplano watches now paired with meteorite dials On some the meteorite has been given a galvanic treatment to impart a golden or blue colour Elsewhere in the Possession line distinguished by its free spinning bezel and a palette of vibrant colours the standout model this year features a Milanese cuff yet another demonstration of Piaget s goldsmithing prowess whose supple and luxurious mesh is finely hand worked As a finishing flourish the shimmering mother of pearl dial is circled with 11 diamond dots to mark the hours A further 162 brilliant cut diamonds surround the bezel Piaget in all its splendour Eric Dumatin PIAGET POSSESSION 29 MM CUFF THE STANDOUT PIECE IN THE POSSESSION PIAGET EXTREMELY LADY PIAGET HAS IMAGINED HOW LIGHT AND SHADE WOULD PIAGET LIMELIGHT GALA THE LIMELIGHT GAL A S ASYMMETRIC LUGS AND RET COLLECTION THIS YE AR COMES ON AN ENTIRELY HAND WOVEN MIL ANESE CUFF PL AY ON THE SCALES OF AN E XOTIC ANIMAL AND REPRODUCED THIS RIPPLING RO CONTEMPOR ARY APPE AL HAVE MADE IT AN ICON FOR THE BR AND HERE A BR ACELE T I N GO LD PA I R ED WITH A SH I M M ER I NG M OTHER OF PE AR L D I A L EFFECT IN PINK GOLD ADDING TO AN ARR AY OF TEXTURES INSPIRED BY NATURE HAND ENGRAVED D COR PALACE BRACELET SHOWS OFF PIAGET S TALENT WHEN ELE VEN DIAMOND DOTS MARK THE HOURS WITH A FURTHER 162 BRILLIANT CUT EACH SCALE IS DELICATELY HAND BRUSHED APPLYING ALMOST IMPERCEPTIBLE WORKING WITH GOLD BEAUTIFULLY WROUGHT BY THE COMPANY S EXPERIENCED DIAMONDS AROUND THE BE ZEL UNMISTAK ABLY PIAGE T DIFFERENCES IN ANGLE AND PRESSURE THE SAME SHIMMERING DECOR ATION ARTISANS IT IS COMPLEMENTED BY A DARK GREEN MALACHITE DIAL AND A NEW SPILLS OVER ONTO THE GOLD DIAL STYLE OF OPEN SETTING FOR THE DIAMONDS ON THE BEZEL combines tradition and innovation with a unique creative approach In the Piaget gold working atelier in Plan lesOuates Geneva the mastery and know how required to create over a hundred different types of gold bracelets resides in the hands of our in house craftsmen In all its forms whether in a watch bracelet with multiple sleek links or in a supple strap woven from a single threadlike wire gold is handled with a light versatile touch that emphasises the pleasure and bright sensuality of wearing this precious material

Page 62

Page 63

ADVENTURE WATCH YOUR TIME 63 Travel Companions o Peter Braun We travel to contemplate every journey is a moving contemplation Marguerite Yourcenar 1903 1987 Wristwatches indicating world times or at least a second time zone have become an essential accessory in this global age And not just when travelling E r i c Va l l i Travel broadens the mind and sparks new friendships It s also ingrained in our professional lives as global trade implies travelling further and more often However useful videoconferencing may be it s hard to imagine doing business without some degree of travel After all no one signs a multi million contract over the phone When Ferdinand Adolph Lange was making his first watches in Glash tte it took a week to travel between Dresden and Frankfurt by coach and horses Passengers doubtless didn t notice that at the end of their 300 mile journey east to west the sun reached its zenith 20 minutes later Had Lange been able to call home he would have had confirmation of the time difference with Dresden shown on his pocket watch A stickler for precision on arrival he would have adjusted his watch to the new local time In fact he would have had to reset it more than once as each stage of the journey Chemnitz Gera Weimar Erfurt and Fulda had its own time As many times as companies This was a particularly problematic state of affairs in countries with a large east west expanse such as the United States whose many private railroad companies ran to their own time In the majority of cases this was time at head office Thus the Pennsylvania Railroad referred to local time in Philadelphia along its routes whereas the New York Central kept to the Vanderbilt time of Grand Central Station The situation for early railroad travellers was confusing to say the least At each connection they had to scan the row of clocks behind the ticket desks which rather than showing local time gave the reference time for the various companies maybe Erie Lackawanna or Baltimore Ohio It was then up to passengers to do the sums and convert the compa LOUIS VUIT TON TAMBOUR MOON GMT THE TAMBOUR COLLECTION DEBUTED IN 2002 INSPIRING THE TAMBOUR MOON FIF TEEN YE ARS L ATER ITS NAME STEMS NOT FROM A FUNCTION BUT FROM ITS CONCAVE PROFILE APPLIED LUGS PRESERVE THE PERFECT CIRCLE OF THE CASE WHICH WIDENS AT THE BASE THE T WELVE LE T TERS SPELLING LOUIS VUIT TON ARE ENGR AVED AROUND THE EDGE THE TAMBOUR MOON GMT INTRODUCES A TR AVEL THEMED FUNCTION THAT RECALLS LOUIS VUIT TON S ORIGINS AS A TRUNK MAKER THIS ELEGANT TOOL FOR THE MODERN GLOBE TROT TER IS HOUSED IN A 41 5MM CASE ny s time to local time if they wanted to know when they would arrive To make matters worse most towns used true time or solar time calculated according to the movement of the sun through the sky As a result in the mid 1800s the young American nation had 144 different times The division of Earth Ancient civilisations already depicted Earth with a grid of longitudes and latitudes Ptolemy on his maps put the zero longitude meridian around the Canary Islands whose longitude is around 15 west Over the course of the centuries cartographers would reposition this zero longitude at Rome Copenhagen Paris St Petersburg or London Circa 1870 ten cities had officially declared a prime meridian out of tradition or national pride and none were prepared to give up this privilege without a fight Two nations in particular France and Great Britain were adamant that theirs must be the prime meridian for the rest of the world

Page 64

64 WATCH YOUR TIME ADVENTURE After hard fought negotiations 22 of the 25 countries attending the 1884 International Meridian Conference in Washington succeeded in reaching an agreement The British won the day and since then the time at any point on Earth is calculated based on an imaginary line running through the Royal Observatory in the London borough of Greenwich The British must have been confident a vertical line indicating zero longitude had already been traced across the sights of the Observatory telescope As well as Greenwich Mean Time GMT the agreement reached in Washington introduced a further 23 time zones Each was offset from its neighbour by exactly one hour thus making it easier to convert times and set one s watch when travelling Since then an additional eight time zones have been created offset by 30 minutes and a further three with a difference of 15 or 45 minutes giving a total of 35 time zones The original 24 time zones cover 15 longitude or 1 035 miles running west to east so that the time is never more than half an hour off from solar time which exactly coincides with clock time in the centre of the zone So much for the theory In practice time zones are delimited by political boundaries For example Central European Time CET introduced in 1893 equals GMT plus one hour It covers an area from the west coast of Spain as far as Poland s eastern border or almost 35 longitude Dual time watches Setting the time on a watch is hardly an insurmountable task Even a short flight leaves ample time to whizz the hour hand to its new position The annoying part if yours is an ordinary wristwatch is struggling to press the crown back in so as not to lose vital seconds even minutes of precision This is where watches designed I for travellers come in as pulling out the crown temporarily uncouples the motionworks so that the hour hand can be altered without stopping the other hands The watch s mechanism and dial layout depend on how important this reference time is if it s simply a reminder of the time back home the central hands are uncoupled to facilitate setting If on the contrary the aim is to visualise the time in another city a subdial will be quicker to set Many brands give precedence to local time with home time shown on a subdial When travelling the central hour hand is moved forwards or backwards independently of the minute hand without altering home time on the subdial or possibly shown by an additional central hour hand This is an especially convenient solution given that the difference between most time zones is calculated in hours the minutes remain unchanged Hence easy setting without loss of precision is the main advantage of this type of watch If in contrast your main concern is to know what time it is in another city imagine you have colleagues in New Delhi for example then you will need a watch designed for rapid setting of the subdial time while the main hands continue to show reference time However such a watch has only limited utility when travelling World time watches represent the time zones seen from the Northern hemisphere with the North Pole in the centre of the dial The most famous example has to be the World Time which the Geneva watchmaker Louis Cottier devised for Patek Philippe in the 1930s It simultaneously indicates 24 time zones with a graduated peripheral disc showing the main city for each one and a rotating disc showing the corresponding local time over 24 hours This ingenious system shows the time anywhere in the world at a glance And as the 24 hour disc is usually divided into twice 12 hours day and night you ll always know if your loved one or business partner is wide awake or fast asleep II V III VI IIII VII I TONNEAU DE CARTIER DUAL TIME SKELETON RECENT I I I M O N T B L A N C HER ITAGE GMT T H E AU TO M AT I C V SEIKO PROSPE X L X SEIKO S SPORTING SIDE HAS VII HERM S SLIM GMT SLIM BY NAME AND BY NATURE YE ARS HAVE SEEN CARTIER RE TURN TO SOME OF ITS C A L I B R E O F T H E M O N T B L A N C H E R I TAG E G M T I S PRODUCED THREE VERSIONS OF THE PROSPEX THANKS TO THE E XTR A THIN H1950 MOVEMENT 2 6MM MOST ICONIC STYLES INTRODUCED IN 1906 TWO YEARS HOUSED IN A 40MM CASE IN FULLY POLISHED STAINLESS D ED I CATED TO L AN D S E A AN D S K Y A L L H AVE TH E HIGH ASSOCIATED WITH A 1 4MM HIGH GMT MODULE AF TER THE SANTOS THE TONNE AU ALSO BROKE THE STEEL FE ATURING CURVED LUGS AND AN ENGR AVING ROBUSTNESS LEGIBILIT Y AND RELIABILIT Y E XPECTED THE SL ATE GREY DIAL WITH ITS RECOGNISABLE FONT MOULD IN AN ER A OF POCKET WATCHES THE SKELETON OF THE MINERVA MANUFACTURE ON THE BACK OF THE WITH ADD ITIONAL FUNCTIONS C OR R ESP OND I NG TO SHOWS A DATE COUNTER AT 6 O C LOC K AND WITH DUAL TIME MODEL SHOWN HERE IS PURE CARTIER STYLE CASE THE GMT HAND SHOWS A SECOND TIME ZONE E ACH FA M I LY FOR E X A M P LE THE L AND WATCHES T YPICAL HERM S ORIGINALIT Y A SILVERY GMT SUBDIAL I I BL ANCPAIN VILLERET QUANTI ME COMPLET GMT OVER A 24 HOUR SCALE FE ATURE A GMT HAND AND A COMPASS BE ZEL WITH A SCAT TERING OF NUMER ALS AT 11 O CLOCK T H I S WATC H W I T H C O M P L E T E C A L E N DA R A N D A I I I I JAEG E R LECOULTR E P OL ARIS GEOGR APHIC W T VI TAG HEUER CARRER A HEUER 02 GMT TAG HEUER SECOND TIME ZONE FUNCTION BENEFITS FROM MANY THIS WATCH IS AN INVITATION TO E XPLORE THE WORLD CELEBR ATED THE CARRER A S 55TH ANN IVERSARY IN O F T H E I N N OVAT I O N S D E V E LO P E D BY B L A N C PA I N AND ITS 24 TIME ZONES REPRESENTED BY THE CITIES 2018 WITH TH IS G M T CHRONOGR APH THE SECOND S I N C E T H E I N T RO D UCT I O N O F T H E F I RST V ERS I O N INSCRIBED AROUND THE FL ANGE WHICH IS ADJUSTED TIME ZONE WHICH IS SE T BY THE CROWN IS RE AD BY I N 2002 THE M OVEM ENT I NC OR P OR ATES A S I LI C ON BY THE CROWN AT 10 O CLOCK FOR CITIES SWITCHING A RED L ACQUERED HAND FROM THE 24 HOUR SCALE ON BAL ANCE SPRING WHOSE ANTI MAGNETIC PROPERTIES B E T W EEN STA N DA R D A N D DAY L I G H T SAV I N G T I M E THE BL ACK AND BLUE CER AMIC BE ZEL CONTRIBUTE TO GRE ATER PRECISION CORRECTORS AC COR D I NG TO SE ASONS JAEGER LECOU LTRE HAS AR E M OVED FRO M THE CASE S I DES TO A P OS I T I ON BEEN CLEVER ENOUGH TO ADD A WHITE ASTERISK THAT UNDER THE FOUR LUGS INDICATES THIS ONE HOUR DIFFERENCE

Page 65

Pride of Japan FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME 65 Sometimes we need to be reminded of the revolution certain watches represented Seiko is doing exactly that with a series of anniversary editions Just as world history is a succession of milestones and pioneers watchmaking history has its moments some of which may seem unremarkable at the time but ultimately usher in great change At Seiko 1969 was one such moment Exactly fifty years ago and virtually unheard of outside Asia the brand launched an automatic winding chronograph with vertical clutch both major innovations at the same time as it released the first commercially available quartz watch Back then the industry had yet to grasp the full significance of this revolutionary technology The Astron was unrivalled never before had a mechanism measured time with such near perfect for the era precision deviating by a maximum of five seconds a month Seiko is celebrating the first half century of what is an ongoing adventure by launching the Astron GPS Solar Dual Time 5X53 as a limited edition of 1 500 pieces While the design is inspired by the original Astron the calibre has the innovative function of automatically adjusting the time in 39 time zones to the wearer s location Precision is suitably impressive deviating by a single second in 100 000 years when the movement is connected to the satellite network Spring Drive turns 20 Seiko has another important anniversary coming up this year namely 20 years since the launch of the Spring Drive a hybrid movement that combines the best of two worlds mechanical and electronic to measure time with rare accuracy and with unprecedented fluidity for the seconds hand To mark the occasion Grand Seiko is extending its Sport collection with a new design that takes its cue from the mighty lion its emblem ever since the very first Grand Seiko watch in 1960 All three series are limited editions sporting a dynamic 44 5mm case in high density titanium 500 pieces or pink gold 100 pieces which is polished to a mirror sheen using Seiko s Zaratsu technique Each one is powered by an automatic Spring Drive chronograph calibre with a Trisynchro regulator Grand Seiko is also bringing to the party the Spring Drive Grand Seiko Elegance collection featuring a new manual wind movement 9R02 In addition to the Trisynchro regulator which ensures precision of one second per day it incorporates a new barrel whose two parallel mounted mainsprings benefit from Seiko s torque return system As its name suggests this mechanism saves unneeded excess torque from when the watch is wound and reuses it later Power reserve is thus boosted to 84 hours tracked by an indicator on the movement side next to the barrel with its bellflower cut out decoration Seiko chose this flower because it is the symbol of Shiojiri the city that is home to the Micro Artist Studio where these marvels are made Seiko is producing just 30 of these watches in platinum Because elegance leads naturally to lady s watches the Japanese manufacture is also unveiling a sport chic version of its Grand Seiko Automatic for women to enjoy And if this weren t enough the brand is also introducing the Prospex LX line It s inspired by the Prospex 1968 Diver s Re creation that took home the Sport s Watch prize at the 2018 Grand Prix d Horlogerie de Gen ve Powered by a Spring Drive movement with or without GMT these sumptuous watches echo another admirable reinterpretation also in the Prospex line of a dive watch originally released in the 1970s Robust and with a sharp design it matches an automatic movement with 200 metre water resistance that will appeal to anyone searching for a hard wearing dive watch while collectors will appreciate that this is a 2 500 piece limited edition As a company that takes pride in its origins and is at pains to showcase Japanese handcraft traditions in its products Seiko is also releasing a series of Presage watches whose porcelain dials are made in Arita the town in southern Japan where porcelain making techniques have been practiced and perfected for more than Vincent Daveau four centuries SEIKO PRESAGE ARITA PORCELAIN DIAL THE PRESAGE COLLECTION IS ADMIRED GR AND SEIKO LADIES AUTOMATIC AT BASELWORLD 2018 GR AND SEIKO PRE GR AND SEIKO SPRING DRIVE THE SPRING DRIVE MOVEMENT CELEBR ATES ITS BY CONNOISSEURS AS A SHOWCASE FOR SEIKO S EXPERTISE IN WATCHMAKING SENTED A LIMITED EDITION WATCH DRIVEN BY THE 9S25 CALIBRE A NEW AUTO 20TH ANNIVERSARY IN A NEW SERIES PART OF THE GR AND SEIKO ELEGANCE AND FOR THE E XECUTION OF ITS DIALS USING TR ADITIONAL JAPANESE CR AF TS MATIC MOVEMENT SPECIFICALLY FOR WOMEN S WATCHES THIS YE AR THE JAP COLLECTION WITH AN EVEN SLIMMER PROFILE T WO OF THE FOUR MODELS ARE SUCH AS ENAMELLING OR URUSHI L ACQUER THIS L ATEST ITER ATION PRESENTS ANESE FIRM IS L AUNCHING ANOTHER NEW CALIBRE THE 9S27 AND A SERIES OF EQUIPPED WITH A NEW MANUAL WINDING SPRING DRIVE MOVEMENT AS WELL T WO AUTOMATIC WATCHES WITH PORCEL AIN DIALS FROM ARITA HOME OF THIS FIVE EXQUISITE L ADIES TIMEPIECES THE BEGINNING OF A NEW ER A FOR GR AND AS A GLIDE MOTION SECONDS HAND WHOSE SMOOTH MOVEMENT MIRRORS THE ANCESTR AL TECHNIQUE FOR MORE THAN FOUR CENTURIES SEIKO IN THE WOMEN S SEGMENT NATUR AL CONTINUOUS FLOW OF TIME

Page 66

66 WATCH YOUR TIME FOCUS A Flying Start Bvlgari is celebrating the 50th anniversary of the G rald Genta brand a prestigious name acquired in 2000 whose expertise has been essential in propelling the Italian firm into watchmaking s upper spheres In honour of this milestone Bvlgari is releasing a biretrograde Arena watch in platinum GUIDO TERRENI BVLGARI HORLOGERIE MANAGING DIRECTOR At the start of the new millennium renewed interest in mechanical watches meant the Swiss watch industry was finally able to put the so called quartz crisis behind it At the same time in 2000 Bvlgari bought G rald Genta named after the revered designer who in 1969 had set up his company in Le Sentier in the heartland of Swiss watchmaking The family then at the head of Bvlgari wanted to acquire expertise in watchmaking which at that time we didn t have explains Guido Terreni Managing Director of Bvlgari Horlogerie This acquisition was definitely the most important stage in the vertical integration that followed over the next years After G rald Genta with its speciality in manufacturing high end movements we bought a dialmaker a strapmaker and a casemaker Then in 2011 they were merged into a single entity Bvlgari Horlogerie Back then Bvlgari watches retailed on average for a third of what they go for today hence the benefits of the takeover weren t immediately apparent accentuated by the fact that G rald Genta was still being managed as a separate brand All this would change in 2004 when Genta s complicated movements were introduced into the Italian firm s ranges with great success as Guido Terreni recalls In 2006 a Bvlgari watch with a small complication accounted for half the orders taken for Genta products at that year s Baselworld fair The next step pretty much wrote itself Unable to maintain sufficient orders for G rald Genta at the risk of losing the qualified watchmakers producing these highly complex movements and given the promising results obtained by Bvlgari s complicated timepieces in 2009 G rald Genta was subsumed into Bvlgari Fast track to expertise Guido Terreni was in charge of seeing this integration through to completion This was a complex task but an exciting one too as it meant bringing together a company Bvlgari with the creative verve to imagine fabulous watches with Italian flair and a manufacturer with the capacity to bring them to life After the merger which Terreni recalls occasioned considerable eyebrow raising the Le Sentier facility produced the BVL 191 Solotempo base calibre that Genta had always wanted This was followed by the Finissimo very much the gamechanger with its five world s thinnest records In Terreni s view integrating Genta into the Bvlgari brand enabled us to perpetuate and develop some extraordinary expertise which quickly and strongly enriched our watchmaking culture This year s G rald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch Arena Bi Retro should be seen as a tribute to the origin of Bvlgari s skill as a watchmaker Without the Genta brand Bvlgari wouldn t be where it is today I m thinking in particular of the Octo Finissimo range the last real innovation in both watch design and mechanisms Guido Terreni concludes This anniversary watch is our way of looking back and thanking the 22 people who joined us from Genta which as a Manufacture now employs 82 people It s about giving credit where credit is due The anniversary watch features a round Arena case in highly polished platinum Jumping hours are shown in an aperture at 12 o clock Retrograde minutes and the date are on sectors with minutes above and date below The BVL 300 calibre is visible through the sapphire back It s a watch that dares to be different and that s really Christophe Roulet what Bvlgari is all about G R ALD G EN TA T H E D ES IG N ER G R A L D G E N TA WA S B E H I N D S O M E O F G R ALD GENTA 50TH ANNIVERSARY WATCH ARENA BI RETRO THE G R ALD DATE ARR ANGED IN A SMALLER ARC AT 6 O CLOCK IS ALSO SHOWN BY A RETRO WATCH M AK ING S MOST RECOGN ISAB LE DESIGNS FIRST FOR OTHER BR ANDS GENTA 50TH ANNIVERSARY WATCH IS HOUSED IN THE FAMOUS CHUNK Y ROUND GR ADE HAND THE COMPLEX MECHANISM OF CALIBRE BVL 300 A BIDIRECTIONAL T H EN F RO M 1969 U N D ER H I S OW N N A M E M A N U FAC T U R E G R A L D G EN TA ARENA CASE WITH A SMOOTH WIDE CURVED BEZEL IN HIGHLY POLISHED PL AT MANUAL WINDING MOVEMENT WITH A 42 HOUR POWER RESERVE IS VISIBLE WAS REM AR K AB LE FOR ITS COM PLICATION MOVEM ENTS INC LUD ING STR I K INUM THE JUMPING HOURS ARE DISPL AYED IN A WINDOW AT 12 O CLOCK WHILE THROUGH THE SCR ATCH RESISTANT SAPPHIRE CASE BACK COLLECTORS WILL I N G M EC H A N I S M S SO P H I ST I CAT ED CA LEN DA R SYST E M S A N D TO U R B I L LO N THE MINUTES ARE TR ACKED ON AN ARC THAT SPANS THE TOP HALF OF THE BLUE SURELY APPRECIATE THIS TRIBUTE TO A GRE AT DESIGNER AND TO BVLGARI S REGUL ATORS L ACQUER DIAL BY A HAND WHICH SNAPS BACK TO ZERO EVERY 60 MINUTES THE RINASCIMENTO PHILOSOPHY

Page 67

Page 68