simplebooklet thumbnail

of 0
1
Urban Messenger/ Daddy Diaper Bag
The Urban Messenger/Daddy Diaper
bag is a versatile pattern that offers
options to make the perfect Men’s
everyday messenger bag or turn it into
the ideal Daddy diaper bag.
The UMB, whether made to use as a
work bag, school bag, everyday bag or
made as a Daddy Diaper bag will be the
ideal way for any man to tote his stuff!
Finished size measures: 17” wide, 14 ½”
tall, and 5 ½” deep.
Pattern includes 10 Pocket options to
allow you to completely personalize the
UMB to suit any man.
Make sure print setting is set at “Do Not Scale” or “100% Scale" depending upon your printer settings. Always print
Actual Size. Feel free to sell your bags made with my pattern but please do not sell or share the pattern.
Copyright 2015 - RLR Creations
2
Materials Needed:
2 yards 44” wide Décor or Quilting Weight Main Fabric
2 1/2 yards 44” wide Quilting Weight Lining Fabric
5 yards Fusible Pellon SF 101 or a woven shaping Interfacing (Medium Woven Shapeform Interfacing)
**If using a heavy weight décor fabric you need: 3 yards ** You can omit the interfacing on the main fabric pieces**
1 yard Fusible Fleece -TP971F-Pellon Fleece Thermolam Plus
2/3 Yard (aprox 24”) of coordinating Webbing
1- Coordinating Zipper 8” or longer
1- Coordinating Zipper 12” or longer
1- Coordinating Zipper 16” or longer
Hardware: 2 - 1 ½” Metal rectangles, O rings or D rings
1- 1 ½” Slider
1- Magnetic Snap
1” Parachute Buckle
2 yards- ½” elastic- for optional Elastic Pockets.
Coordinating thread
Removable Fabric Marker (I recommend a Frixion gel pen as it can be removed by pressing with an iron)
Microtex (Sharp) Needle 80/12 Recommended for topstitching through the thicker parts.
Cutting:
1. Print and cut out all of the pattern pieces.
NOTE: Make sure print setting is set at “Do Not Scale” or “100% Scale” depending upon your printer settings.
2. Cut out all pieces from Fabric, and Interfacings as directed on each pattern piece.
ADDITIONALLY CUT:
Piece Q Flap Zipper Pocket Lining: 9Wide x 12.5” LongCut 1 Lining Fabric
Piece R Front Zipper Pocket Lining: 16” Wide x 24” Long Cut 1 Lining Fabric
Piece S Back Zipper Pocket Lining: 20” Wide x 12” LongCut 1 Lining Fabric
3
Piece T-Crossbody Strap: 32Long x 6” HighCut 2 Main Fabric OR 2 Lining Fabric-your choice
Cut 1 piece from Fusible Interfacing: 58” long by 6” wide
Piece U – Flap Strap: Cut 1 Webbing 16” Long
Piece V-Main Panel Strap Connector: Cut 1 Webbing 7” Long
Before beginning you should have the following pieces:
Piece A- Flap: 1 Main Fabric, 1 Fleece (cut with fusible side up), 1 Interfacing (cut with fusible side up), 1 Lining
Fabric *Be sure that you cut the lining fabric with pattern piece wrong side up so the main and lining pieces are
mirror image.
Piece B- Front Panel: 1 Main Fabric, 2 Lining, Fabric 1 Fleece, 3 Interfacing
Piece C- Front Slip Pocket: 1 Main Fabric, 1 Lining Fabric, 1 Interfacing
Piece D- Cargo Pocket Flap: 1 Main Fabric, 1 Lining Fabric, 2 Interfacing
Piece E- Cargo Pocket: 1 Main Fabric, 1 Lining Fabric, 1 Interfacing
Piece F- Back Panel Bottom: 1 Main Fabric,1 Fleece, 1 Interfacing
Piece G- Back Top: 1 Main Fabric,1 Fleece, 1 Interfacing
Piece H-Back Slip Pocket: 1 Main Fabric, 1 Interfacing (cut with fusible side up), 1 Lining Fabric *Be sure that you cut
the lining fabric with pattern piece wrong side up so the main and lining pieces are mirror image.
Piece I-Bottom: 1 Main Fabric, 1 Lining Fabric, 1 Fleece, 2 Interfacing
Piece J- Exterior Side Bottom: 2 Main Fabric, 2 Fleece, 2 Interfacing
Piece K-Exterior Sides Top: 2 Main Fabric, 2 Fleece, 2 Interfacing
Piece L-Side Pocket (NON ELASTIC OPTION): 1 Main Fabric, 1 Lining Fabric, 1 Interfacing
Piece M- Side Pocket/Taped to Piece L (ELASTIC OPTION): 1 Main Fabric, 1 Lining Fabric, 1 Interfacing
Piece N- Interior Side Panel: 2 Lining Fabric, 2 Interfacing
Piece O/P-Interior Pockets: 4 Lining Fabric, 2 Interfacing
Piece Q Flap Zipper Pocket Lining: 1 Lining Fabric
Piece R Front Zipper Pocket Lining: 1 Lining Fabric
Piece S Back Zipper Pocket Lining: 1 Lining Fabric
Piece T-Crossbody Strap: 2 Main Fabric OR 2 Lining Fabric-your choice, 1Interfacing
Piece U – Flap Strap: 1 Webbing
Piece V-Main Panel Strap Connector: 1 Webbing
4
Preparing:
Interfacing-
Fuse Interfacing to WRONG SIDE of each corresponding fabric piece as indicated on the pattern pieces.
Note: DO NOT fuse the interfacing to the strap pieces at this time.
For Pieces: A, C, E, H, L/M - Fuse the Interfacing to the main fabric pieces.
For Piece O and/or P- Fuse the Interfacing to 2 of the Lining Fabrics.
Fleece-
Note: DO NOT fuse the fleece to pieces A, B or F we will fuse these after adding the zipper pockets
Fuse Fleece to WRONG SIDE of each corresponding fabric piece, except Pieces A, B and F, as indicated on the
pattern pieces.
INSTRUCTIONS TO COMPLETE BAG:
Flap:
Flap Zipper Pocket:
1. Lay the Main Fabric Flap piece (Piece A) RIGHT SIDE UP. Measure over 4 ½” from the top left side and mark or crease
to mark a vertical line. (This will aid you in placing the pocket piece)
2. From the top edge of the Flap piece measure down and mark a horizontal line with fabric pen 3 ½” from the top.
3. Take the Flap Zipper Pocket Liner piece (Piece Q) and place on top of the Flap Piece RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, aligning
the top left edge with the vertical mark you created, and the top edge with the horizontal marked line. Pin in place.
4. On the Pocket Liner Fabric mark a line 1” down from the top edge of the Pocket Lining piece. Draw another line 3/8”
under the first line or 1 3/8” down from top of the Pocket Liner Piece.
5. Connect the two lines to make a rectangle by measuring 1in from both sides of the Pocket piece and marking a
vertical line.
CHECK: You should have a rectangle measuring 7” by 3/8”. The pocket piece should be 4 ½” from the left side and 3
½” from the top of the Flap Piece. The Flap and Pocket Liner should be RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER.
5
6. Sew the rectangle lines you just drew through all layers with a stitch length of 2.5 (normal) on the long sides then
changing to a 1.0 stitch length on the short sides.
7. Draw a centered horizontal line down the center of the rectangle you just sewed. Measure ½” from both sides of
rectangle and draw a short vertical line on both sides. Form two arrows on each side as pictured.
8. Cut along the center line and all diagonal lines getting as close as possible to the corners without cutting through the
stitches. After cutting is complete you should have two triangles cut at each end.
9. Pull the Pocket Lining Fabric away from the back piece and press well to create creases where the seams are.
10. Pull all of the pocket liner though the rectangle opening you just created so it is now at the back of the Flap piece.
Press well so the liner fabric at the opening does not show on the front side of the Flap piece.
11. Next, you will sew down those little triangles that you cut to the liner fabric to help reinforce the sides for the zipper
ends. Fold back the Back Bottom Piece to expose the Pocket Liner fabric and the little triangles on each side. Sew the
triangles to the liner fabric close to the Flap piece without sewing through the Flap piece.
6
12. Adding the zipper. Lay your 8” zipper under the rectangle opening and center. Position the zipper pull about halfway
under the opening to assure the zipper will close all the way when done. Pin in place. Sew all the way around the
rectangle with a ¼” seam allowance to enclose the zipper.
13. Fold the Pocket Liner Piece (Piece Q) up, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER matching the top and side edges and pin in place.
Sew the three open edges together using a 3/8” seam allowance.
NOTE: the bottom of the pocket is a fold. You are folding the bottom raw edge up to meet with top raw edge.
Be careful to keep the Flap piece out of the way so you don’t sew through it, you only want to sew the pocket
closed and not the pocket to the Flap.
Your Pocket Lining will extend over the right edge; we will trim this off after adding the Flap Lining Fabric.
Flap Zipper Pocket is finished.
Finishing the Front Flap (Piece A)
1. Iron the pocket lining piece you just added so it lays flat against the WRONG SIDE of the Flap Piece and fuse the Piece
A Fleece to the WRONG SIDE of the Flap over the zipper pocket piece making sure your pocket panel lies flat under the
fleece.
2. Place your Main Fabric Flap piece (Piece A) you just added the zipper to RIGHT SIDE UP. Align the Lining Fabric Flap
piece (Piece A) on top WRONG SIDE UP, matching all raw edges and pin.
3. Sew the pieces together around the sides and bottom. Leave the top edge open for turning.
7
4. Trim the seam allowance to ¼”, trimming off any excess zipper pocket liner, and turn RIGHT SIDE OUT. Press well to
flatten the seams.
5. Top Stitch around the flap on sides and bottom.
Webbing Strap and Parachute Buckle:
1. Take your 16” Long Webbing piece (Piece U) and thread the Female part of the Parachute buckle through one end.
Pull the Webbing through until you have about 1” extending beyond the top of the buckle on the wrong side. Stitch
across the strap piece as close to the buckle as possible.
2. Align the strap piece along the left side of the Flap 3” in from the left side and the TOP of your buckle 3 ½” above the
bottom of the flap. Pin in place.
3. Top stitch around the sides and bottom of the Webbing
Piece to attach.
Flap is finished. Set Aside.
8
Front Panel:
Cargo Pocket:
Adding the Magnetic Snap:
1. Fold the Lining Fabric Pocket Flap (Piece D) in half lengthwise and press or crease to mark the center at the bottom.
2. Center and install the male part of the magnetic snap to the Pocket Flap on RIGHT SIDE OF FABRIC, 1 1/4 ” from the
bottom of the piece centered on the vertical line you just made.
3. Fold the Cargo Pocket Main Fabric Pocket (Piece E) in half lengthwise and press or crease to mark the center at the
top.
4. Center and install the female part of the magnetic snap to the Pocket piece on RIGHT SIDE OF FABRIC, 1 3/4" down
from the top of the piece centered on the vertical line you just made.
NOTE: For a stronger reinforcement place a small square of scrap interfacing on the wrong side of each piece
Making the Cargo Pocket:
1. Place the two Piece Cargo Pocket piece (Piece E ) RIGHT SIDES
TOGETHER and stitch all the way around the piece, leaving a 3” gap in
the center at the Top for turning.
2. Trim the corners to reduce bulk and turn piece right side out through the opening you left in the top. Poke out the
corners and press well; folding the opening you left for turning seam allowance in.
9
3. Top Stitch across the top with a ¼” seam allowance.
Making the Pleats:
1. Measure and mark the fold lines at 3/4 and 1 ½ from each of the short sides.
2. With Cargo Pocket (Piece E) RIGHT SIDE UP fold the fabric at the ¾” mark towards the center aligning with the 1 ½
mark you made and press well on both sides of the pocket.
3. Flip the piece over so the WRONG SIDE is facing up and fold the edges in ¾” again so that you have a “z”shaped fold;
then press well on both sides.
4. Align the Cargo Pocket on the Front Panel (Piece B) RIGHT SIDES UP 2 ½” from the bottom and 1 ½” in from the right
side. Tuck the bottom folded edges under the pocket, so that it is flat, and pin in place. You ONLY want to pin the
bottom fold, the top fold will remain un-sewn.
5. Edge stitch, about 1/8”from the edge, down the sides of the Cargo Pocket through the lower pocket layer only.
10
6. Flatten the pocket at the bottom and sew across about a 1/8” from the bottom edge though all of the layers.
Finishing the Cargo Pocket Flap:
1. Match the two Cargo Pocket Flap pieces (Piece D) RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER and pin.
2. Stitch along the sides and bottom with a ½” seam allowance. **Do not stitch across the top, so you will be able to
turn the piece RIGHT SIDES OUT. **
3. Trim the seam allowance to ¼” and turn RIGHT SIDES OUT.
4. Poke out the rounded edges and press well to flatten. Turn in the top raw edges ½” and press.
11
5. Top stitch along the sides and bottom.
6. Center and place the Cargo Flap ¼” above the Cargo Pocket RIGHT SIDE DOWN and the top straight edge towards the
Pocket piece. Sew across the straight edge of Pocket Flap with a ¼” seam allowance.
Front Slip Pocket:
1. Place the two Front Slip Pockets pieces (Piece C) RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER and stitch all the way around the piece,
leaving a 5” gap in the center at the bottom for turning.
2. Trim the corners to reduce bulk and turn the piece RIGHT SIDE OUT through the opening you left in the bottom. Poke
out the corners and press well; folding the opening seam allowance in. (This will get closed when sewing the pocket to
the Front Panel piece)
3. Top Stitch across the top with a ¼” seam allowance.
4. Place the Front Panel Piece you just added the Cargo Pocket to RIGHT SIDE UP. Place the Front Slip Pocket (Piece C)
you just finished on top RIGHT SIDE UP, 2 ½” from the bottom and 1 ½” in from the left side.
12
5. Sew the sides and bottom to the lining piece 1/8” from the edge. Do not sew the top down, just the sides and
bottom.
6. If desired you can divide the pocket by sewing vertical lines down the pocket. Make sure to backstitch a few times at
the beginning and end of each line you make to create the divided pocket to reinforce.
Front Zipper Pocket:
1. Fold the Front Main Panel piece in half lengthwise matching up the raw edges and crease or press to make a centered
vertical mark at the top. Open flat, measure down and mark a horizontal line 2” from top edge of the Front Panel. (This
will aid you in placing and centering the pocket piece.)
2. Iron the Front Zipper Pocket Liner fabric (Piece R) in the same manner, folding it in half lengthwise - matching up the
raw edges - and pressing to make a centered vertical mark. Pin the Pocket Liner Fabric to the Front Panel Piece RIGHT
SIDES TOGETHER aligning the top short edge with the vertical line you drew and matching the center creases.
3. On the Pocket Liner Fabric (Piece R) mark a line 1” down from the top edge. Draw another line 3/8” under the first line
or 1 3/8” down from top of the Pocket Liner Piece.
13
4. Connect the two lines to make a rectangle by measuring 1in from both sides of the Pocket piece and marking a
vertical line.
CHECK: You should have a rectangle measuring 14” by 3/8”. The pocket piece should be centered on the Main Front
Panel piece and 2” below the top center. The Main Front Panel and Pocket Liner should be RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER.
5. Sew the rectangle lines you just drew through all layers with a stitch length of 2.5 (normal) on the long sides then
changing to a 1.0 stitch length on the short sides.
6. Draw a centered horizontal line down the center of the rectangle you just sewed. Measure ½” from both sides of
rectangle and draw a short vertical line on both sides. Form two arrows on each side as pictured.
7. Cut along the center line and all diagonal lines getting as close as possible to the corners without cutting through the
stitches. After cutting is complete you should have two triangles cut at each end.
8. Pull the Pocket Lining Fabric away from the back piece and press well to create creases where the seams are.
9. Pull all of the pocket liner though the rectangle opening you just created so it is now at the back of the Front Panel
piece. Press well so the liner fabric at the opening does not show on the front side of the Front Panel piece.
14
10. Next, you will sew down those little triangles that you cut to the liner fabric to help reinforce the sides for the zipper
ends. Fold back the Front Panel piece to expose the Pocket Liner fabric and the little triangles on each side. Sew the
triangles to the liner fabric close to the Front Panel piece without sewing through the Front piece.
11. Adding the zipper. Lay your 16” zipper under the rectangle opening and center. Position the zipper pull about
halfway under the opening to assure the zipper will close all the way when done. Pin in place. Sew all the way around
the rectangle with a ¼” seam allowance to enclose the
zipper.
12. Fold the Pocket Liner Piece (Piece R) up, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER matching the top and side edges and pin in place.
Sew the three open edges together using a 3/8” seam allowance.
NOTE: the bottom of the pocket is a fold. You are folding the bottom raw edge up to meet with the top raw
edge. Be careful to keep the Front Panel piece out of the way so you don’t sew through it, you only want to sew
the pocket closed and not the pocket to the Front panel.
Add the Fleece
1. Iron the pocket piece you just added so it lays flat against the WRONG SIDE of the Front Panel Piece and fuse the Piece
B Fleece to the WRONG SIDE of the finished Front Panel over the zipper pocket piece making sure your pocket panel lies
flat under the fleece.
Webbing Strap and Parachute Buckle:
1. Take your 7” Long Webbing piece (Piece V) and thread the Male part of the Parachute buckle through one end. Pull
the Webbing through until both ends are even at the bottom. Stitch across the strap piece as close to the buckle as
possible.
2. Align the ends of the webbing along the bottom edge and 3 ½” in from the left side of the Front Main Panel. Pin in
place
3. Baste the piece in place by stitching ¼” away from bottom raw edges.
15
Front Main Panel is finished. Set aside.
Back Panel:
1. Place the two Back Slip Pockets pieces (Piece H) RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER and pin.
2. Stitch along the top of the two pocket pieces and down the right straight edge with a ½” seam allowance.
3. Turn right sides out, trim the corner, and press the seams toward non interfaced piece.
4. Top stitch along the top edge.
5. Place the Back Main Panel Bottom (Piece F) RIGHT SIDE
UP. Pin the finished Slip Pocket piece RIGHT SIDE UP on
top; matching bottom and left side raw edges. Pin in
place.
6. Baste down the left side and bottom as close to the
edge as possible.
7. Stitch down the right side with a ¼” seam allowance.
16
Back Zipper Pocket:
1. With the Back Panel Bottom (Piece F) RIGHT SIDE UP measure in 1” from the right side and mark a vertical line. Next,
measure down 2” from the top and mark a horizontal line. (This will aid you in placing the pocket piece)
2. Take the Back Zipper Pocket Liner piece (Piece S) and place on top of the Back Panel RIGHT SIDES TOGHETHER,
aligning the left edge (long side) with the horizontal mark you created, and the top edge (short side) with the vertical
marked line. Pin in place.
3. On the Pocket Liner Fabric mark a line 1” down from the top edge of the Pocket Lining piece. Draw another line 3/8”
under the first line or 1 3/8” down from top of the Pocket Liner Piece.
4. Connect the two lines to make a rectangle by measuring 1” in from both sides of the Pocket piece and marking a
vertical line.
CHECK: You should have a rectangle measuring 10” by 3/8”. The pocket piece should be 1” from the right side and
2” from the top of the Back Panel Piece. The Flap and Pocket Liner should be RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER.
5. Sew the rectangle lines you just drew through all layers with a stitch length of 2.5 (normal) on the long sides then
changing to a 1.0 stitch length on the short sides.
6. Draw a centered horizontal line down the center of the rectangle you just sewed. Measure ½” from both sides of
rectangle and draw a short vertical line on both sides. Form two arrows on each side as pictured.
17
7. Cut along the center line and all diagonal lines getting as close as possible to the corners without cutting through the
stitches. After cutting is complete you should have two triangles cut at each end.
8. Pull the Pocket Lining Fabric away from the back piece and press well to create creases where the seams are.
9. Pull all of the pocket liner though the rectangle opening you just created so it is now at the back of the Back Bottom
Piece. Press well so the liner fabric at the opening does not show on the front side of the Back Panel Piece.
10. Next, you will sew down those little triangles that you cut to the liner fabric to help reinforce the sides for the zipper
ends. Fold back the Back Bottom Piece to expose the Pocket Liner fabric and the little triangles on each side. Sew the
triangles to the liner fabric close to the Back Bottom Piece without sewing through the Back Bottom Piece.
11. Adding the zipper. Lay your 12” zipper under the rectangle opening and center. Position the zipper pull about
halfway under the opening to assure the zipper will close all the way when done. Pin in place. Sew all the way around
the rectangle with a ¼” seam allowance to enclose the zipper.
12. Fold the Pocket Liner Piece (Piece S) up, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER matching the top and side edges and pin in place.
Sew the three open edges together using a 3/8” seam allowance.
NOTE: the bottom of the pocket is a fold. You are folding the bottom raw edge up to meet with top raw edge.
Be careful to keep the Back Bottom Panel out of the way so you don’t sew through it, you only want to sew the
pocket closed and not the pocket to the back panel.
Add the Fleece
1. Iron the pocket piece you just added so it lays flat against the WRONG SIDE of the Back Bottom Piece and fuse the
Piece F Fleece to the WRONG SIDE of the Back Bottom Piece over the zipper pocket piece making sure your pocket panel
lies flat under the fleece.
Back Main Panel Bottom is finished.
Adding the Finished Flap Piece to Back Bottom Pieces:
18
1. Place the Back Bottom Piece (Piece F) RIGHT SIDE UP. Lay the finished Flap piece (Piece A) on top RIGHT SIDE DOWN;
matching the top raw edges. Next lay the Back Top (Piece G) on top of the Flap RIGHT SIDE DOWN; matching the top
edge with the other two pieces. Clip or pin all of the layers together along the top.
CHECK: The Back Bottom Piece-RIGHT SIDE UP. Finished Flap on top-WRONG SIDE UP. THEN BACK Top Piece on top
of flap- WRONG SIDE UP with all top edges aligned.
2. Sew across the top, through all three pieces with a
½” seam allowance.
3. Press the Back Top and Flap up and away from the bottom back piece, and press the seam flat.
4. Top Stitch across the Bottom Back Piece 1/4” away from the seam.
Outside Back Piece is finished. Set aside.
19
Inside Pockets:
Option 1- Slip Pocket:
1. Place one Interfaced Interior Slip Pocket piece (Piece O) and one Non-Interfaced
2. Stitch along the top of the pinned pocket pieces with a ½” seam allowance.
Interior Slip Pocket piece (Piece O)
RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER and Pin. If making two interior Slip Pockets repeat with remaining two Piece O Slip Pocket
Pieces.
3. Turn right sides out and press the seam towards non interfaced piece.
4. Top stitch along the top edge.
5. Place the one of the Lining Fabric Main Panel pieces (Piece B), RIGHT SIDE UP.
6. Pin the finished Slip Pocket piece RIGHT SIDE UP on top; matching bottom and side raw edges.
7. Dividing the Pocket Panel:
Divide the pocket as you wish by marking and sewing vertical lines down the pocket piece. Backstitch at the beginning
and end of the pocket piece to reinforce.
8. Baste around the sides and bottom as close to the edge as possible.
9. If making two Interior Slip Pockets Repeat steps 2-8 with second Lining Main Panel and the other Slip Pocket Pieces.
Interior Slip Pockets are finished. Set aside.
Option 2- Elastic Interior Pockets:
20
1. Place one
Interfaced Interior Slip Pocket piece (Piece P) and one Non-Interfaced
2. Stitch along the top of the pinned pocket pieces with a ½” seam allowance.
Interior Slip Pocket piece (Piece P)
RIGHT SIDES TOGHER and Pin. If making two interior Elastic Pockets repeat with remaining two Piece P Slip Pocket
Pieces.
3. Turn right sides out and press the seam towards non interfaced piece.
4. Top stitch along the top edge.
5. Sew a casing for the elastic by stitching across again 5/8 away from the finished topstitched edge.
6. Fold the Pocket piece in half and crease or mark the center.
7. Using a safety pin, thread the elastic through the casing, leaving an extra inch or two on each side. Keep the piece flat
as possible once the elastic is added.
8. Take one of your Interior Main Panels (Piece B) and fold in half lengthwise; press or crease to mark the center.
9. With the Interior Main Panel (Piece B) RIGHT SIDE UP align the Pocket (Piece P) on top aligning the center markings
and the bottom raw edges. Pin in place down the center. (The Pocket piece will extend past the sides of the Main Panel
on both sides.)
10. Stitch down the pieces ¼” away from the center
mark on both sides.
11. Match the left side of the pocket with the left side of the Main panel and pin in place. Repeat with the right side.
12. Along the bottom we will create box pleats to take in the fullness.
Create the Pleats:
13. Fold a box pleat in the center of each divided pocket. Create the box pleat by folding the sides in towards the middle
until the bottom edge of the pocket lays flat against the bottom edge of the Main Interior Panel.
21
Create your pleats as in the diagram below, press flat and pin along the bottom edge so the Pocket lies flat along the
bottom edge of the Main Panel piece.
14. Pull on the left side of the elastic until gathers form and the upper edge of the pocket lays flat against the Main
panel. Pin down the end of the elastic at the side edge. Repeat with the right side.
15. Baste around the sides and bottom to attach the pocket to the Main Panel.
16. If making two Interior Elastic Pockets Repeat steps 2-15 with second Lining Main Panel and the other Elastic Pocket
pieces.
Interior Main Panels are finished. Set Aside.
Strap and Connectors:
MAKING THE STRAP:
1. Using the two pieces you cut 6” x 32(Piece T) long lay one piece down RIGHT SIDE UP horizontally. Place the second
piece on top vertically RIGHT SIDE DOWN (two strips will be right sides together) at the edges with a slight overlap at the
edges.
22
2. Draw a diagonal line from the top left corner to the bottom right corner. Pin pieces together and sew across the line
making sure to backstitch at the beginning and end. Trim to ½” seam allowance on outside of stitched line. Press the
seam open.
3. Fuse the 6” x 58” piece of interfacing you cut to wrong side.
4. Hem one short end by folding ½” to the wrong side and press.
5. With the WRONG SIDES TOGETHER fold the strap in
half lengthwise and press to create a crease then open.
6. Now fold each edge towards center crease and press.
Fold in half and press again.
7. Top Stitch across both long sides about 1/8” from edge
and across the piece you folded in.
8. On the side with raw edges cut off two pieces that each measure 4” for the strap connectors.
Strap is done, set aside.
Connectors:
1. Slip a Rectangle or D ring onto each of the 4Connector Pieces you cut from the strap piece. Fold each piece in half
with ring at the fold. Stitch across the connector piece as close to the ring as possible.
Set Aside.
23
Side Pockets:
Option 1- Side Slip Pocket:
1. Place the two Side Pockets (Piece L) RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER. If making two Side Slip Pockets repeat with remaining
two Piece L Pocket Pieces.
2. Stitch along the top and bottom of the two pocket pieces with a ½”
seam allowance.
3. Turn right sides out and press the seam seams at the top and
bottom.
4. Top stitch along the top edge and press the bottom seam flat.
5. Place the Exterior Side Bottom (Piece J) RIGHT SIDE UP. Measure and mark a line 4” above the bottom (short raw
edge) of the Side Panel.
6. Align the Side Pocket (Piece L) that you just finished on top, RIGHT SIDE UP, aligning the bottom of the pocket with the
marked line you made.
7. Baste the two pieces together down the sides with a long stitch length and 1/8” seam allowance.
8. Topstitch across the bottom of the pocket to attach.
9. If making two Side Slip Pockets repeat steps 2-8 with second Exterior Side Panel Bottom and the other Slip Pocket
pieces.
Set Aside.
Option 2- Side Elastic Pocket:
24
1. Place the two Elastic Side Pocket pieces (Piece M) RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER If making two interior Elastic Pockets
repeat with remaining two Piece M Pocket Pieces.
2. Stitch along the top and bottom of the two pocket pieces a ½” seam
allowance.
3. Turn right sides out and press the seams at the top and bottom.
4. Top stitch along the top edge.
5. Sew a casing for the elastic by stitching across again 5/8 away from the finished topstitched edge.
6. Using a safety pin, thread the elastic through the casing, leaving an extra inch or two on each side. Keep the piece flat
as possible once the elastic is added.
7. Place the Exterior Side Bottom (Piece J) RIGHT SIDE UP. Measure and mark a line 4” above the bottom (short raw
edge) of the Side Panel.
8. Align the Side Pocket (Piece M) that you just finished on top, RIGHT SIDE UP, aligning the bottom of the pocket with
the marked line you made.
9. Match the left side edge of the Pocket piece with the left side edge of the Exterior Bottom sides. Pin in place.
10. Baste the two pieces together by stitching down the left side. Backstitch over the elastic to secure in place.
11. Match the right side edge of the Pocket piece with the right side edge of the Exterior Bottom sides. Pin in place. (Do
not sew together yet.)
12. Along the bottom we will create box pleats to take in the fullness.
Create the Pleats:
13. Fold a box pleat in the center of the pocket. Create the box pleat by folding the sides in towards the middle until the
bottom edge of the pocket lays flat against the bottom edge of the Main Interior Panel. Create your pleats as in the
25
diagram below, press flat and pin along the bottom edge so the Pocket lies flat along the bottom edge of the Main Panel
piece. Make sure your pleats lay flat along the bottom edge as the bottom
of the pocket will be visible.
14. Pull on the right side of the elastic until gathers form and the upper
edge of the pocket lays flat against the Main panel. Pin down the end of
the elastic at the side edge. Pin the bottom edge.
15. Baste down the right side, and topstitch across the bottom to attach.
16. If making two Exterior Elastic Side Pockets Repeat steps 2-15 with second Exterior Side Bottom and the other Elastic
Pocket pieces.
Assembling the Sides and Bottom:
Adding the Connectors to side panels:
1. Take one of your Exterior Side Bottom pieces (Piece J) and place RIGHT SIDE UP. Center one of your finished strap
connectors at the top raw edge, with the raw edges aligned with the top of the Side piece. Pin in place.
2. Baste the piece in place by stitching ¼” away from top raw edge.
3. Attach the second Connector piece in the same manner to the other
Exterior Side Bottom piece.
4. Place the Exterior Side Bottom piece (Piece J) RIGHT SIDE UP and place the Exterior Side Top (Piece K) on top WRONG
SIDE UP matching the top raw edges over top of the connector piece you just added. Pin in place.
26
5. Sew together with ½” seam allowance.
6. Press the seams open.
7. Repeat with the other Exterior Side Bottom piece (Piece J) and Exterior Side Top (Piece K).
Connect the Bottom to the Side Pieces:
1. Place one of the finished Exterior Side Panels together with the Main Fabric Bottom Panel (Piece I) WRONG SIDES
TOGETHER, matching the short raw edge without the connector with one of the short ends of the Bottom piece.
2. Sew together with ½” seam allowance.
3. Press the seams open.
4. Repeat to attach the second Exterior Side piece, attaching to the other side of the Piece I bottom piece.
5. Press the seams open and top stitch across both sides of the Bottom piece ¼” away from seams.
6. Repeat steps 1-5 with the Lining Fabric Side pieces (Piece N) and Lining Fabric Bottom piece (Piece I).
27
Attaching the Finished Side/Bottom Panel to the Main Panels:
1. Take the finished Main Fabric Outside Front (Piece A) and the finished Main Fabric Outside Back pieces and mark a
center point at the bottom of each. You can do this by folding each piece in half at the bottom and press with your iron
to make a center crease.
2. Take the finished Main Fabric Sides and Bottom piece and mark the center of the bottom by folding in half matching
the top raw edges of the two side pieces and iron or crease along the folded bottom to find the center.
3. Starting with the finished Back Piece match up the center mark with the center mark on your Finished Side and
Bottom piece RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER.
4. Begin pinning the finished Side/Bottom piece to the finished Back piece from the bottom center up one side, then
repeat for the opposite side to completely pin the entire side panel to the main panel. You can tuck the flap into the
back slip pocket to keep it out of the way while pinning and sewing.
Note: For ease in sewing and to get the curves to match up you will want to place a pin or clip every inch and pin or
clip the corners completely.
5. Sew the two pieces together with ½” seam allowance; moving slowly around the curves. It may be easier to ease the
two pieces together by starting at one side of the bottom center and sewing up one side, then start at the bottom center
again and sew the opposite side.
28
6. Trim the seam allowance to ¼” turn RIGHT SIDE OUT and press to flatten the seams.
7. REPEAT steps 3-6 to attach the Main Fabric Front Piece to the other sides of the Side/Bottom Piece.
29
8. Repeat the steps 1-7 again to attach the Lining Fabric Top/Sides/Bottom to the Lining Fabric Piece A-Main Panels but
use a 5/8” seam allowance.
9. Turn the finished piece RIGHT SIDES OUT and press the seams around the pieces really well to flatten.
Finishing:
Attaching the Lining to the Outside of your Messenger Bag:
1. Turn the completed lining WRONG SIDE OUT and keep the Exterior of the bag RIGHT SIDE OUT.
2. Place the Exterior inside the Lining. (The Exterior and Lining should now be RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, with the top flap
tucked between the two pieces down and out of the way from the top raw edges).
3. Match and pin the top raw edges all the way around the top of the bag, matching side seams and leaving a 7” gap
unsewn on the front for turning. Make sure the connector rings are tucked down and out of the way.
4. Sew around the top with a 1/2” seam allowance.
5. Turn the entire bag RIGHT SIDE OUT through the opening you left at the top of the bag. Tuck the Lining back into the
bag and press around the top seam to flatten well; making sure the seam allowance is tucked into the opening.
6. Pin the opening closed and topstitch around the entire top of the bag (keeping the flap out of the way) ¼” from top
edge.
Adding the Slider and finishing the Crossbody Strap:
1. Thread the end of the strap with the edge you folded in RIGHT SIDE FACING UP through one of the connectors and
then fold over approximately 1”.
2. Stitch across the Handle a few times to secure it.
3. Thread the other end of the strap through the connector on the other side of the bag then thread the end of the strap
RIGHT SIDE FACING UP through the slider and over the center bar.
4. Next thread through the slide piece you added to the other side of the bag, feeding from the outside in and under the
starting piece.
5. Feed the end back through the slider (under first run through) over the center bar. Pull the strap though so it goes
past the slide 1” to 1 ¼” inch.
6. Fold back the end about ½” where it just looped through (away from the slider) and then again 1”. Stitch a
rectangular box with a cross through it to secure.
30
We would love if you would share your new Urban Messenger/Daddy Diaper Bag with us:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1523248277939538/
Also a great place to get help if you have any questions or concerns.
RLR Creations
hang.ups19@yahoo.com